Protecting bathhouse walls from the heat of the stove: rules for constructing protective screens and cladding. Finishing the sauna stove - choosing material for decorative cladding Tiling around the sauna stove

Choosing a finish for a sauna stove is not as easy as it seems. A mistake can be costly. Incorrectly chosen material near the stove will crack and collapse from high temperature. It is not safe. The purpose of the cladding, in addition to its decorative function, is to minimize the likelihood of accidental injury.

Collapse

How can you decorate a stove in a bathhouse?

First of all, this is:

  • ceramic tiles,
  • brick,
  • different types of stone,
  • plastering with a special solution,
  • steel,
  • tiles.

As you can see, the choice of materials is quite wide. Each of these materials must have certain properties and undergo special processing to withstand the high temperature near the furnace. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Using tiles

The tiles on the stove in the bathhouse are afraid of thermal expansion, therefore, when performing work, it is important to carefully follow the technological process. The lining of the stove in the bathhouse does not tolerate negligence.

Kinds

Typically, 7 types of tiles are used for cladding:

  • Terracotta is a tile that has not been glazed. It consists of terracotta clay and fireclay, which are mixed in a certain ratio. Such tiles have been known for several centuries. A correctly implemented technological process greatly influences the final quality of the material. This tile can be easily recognized by its characteristic red tint.
  • Clinker tiles - clay is the main raw material. The material is obtained by pressing, then it is fired at a temperature of +1200 0 C. The crystal lattice of the clay changes and the tile acquires the properties of ceramics.
  • Majolica is very difficult to produce. Previously, only manual labor was used for drawing. Now there are industrial designs. The glaze on the tile is obtained by firing. Properties resemble terracotta tiles.
  • Tiles are the most preferred option due to the air gap between the tiles and the oven wall. This layer works as an additional heat insulator, allowing the stove to retain heat near itself even longer.
  • Porcelain stoneware - can also be used for lining the stove. Marble chips added during the production of porcelain stoneware give the material unique decorative properties and high strength. Due to this, porcelain tiles are rapidly gaining popularity.
  • Fireclay - able to withstand direct exposure to fire. Fireclay is pressed into blanks and fired at a temperature of +1300 0 C.
  • Tile - only a material with a high heat resistance coefficient can withstand temperature loads.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

Based on their properties, the most preferable option for lining a stove is tiles. It is also the most labor-intensive. The most budget option is a special tile with a high coefficient of heat resistance, but with its help it will not be possible to finish the hottest areas.

Instructions

Facing sauna stove Do-it-yourself tiles are done as follows:


Finishing the stove with bricks

Traditionally, the stove lining is made with brick. This material is also suitable for wooden walls near the stove. He is additional battery heat.

At the same time, the brick acts as a protective screen that prevents burns and has a presentable appearance. You can also line a metal stove with bricks.

Kinds

The following types of bricks are used for cladding the stove:


It is not recommended to use silicate and hollow bricks. It will not hold heat well and will collapse. Fireclay brick is preferable to use, but it is more expensive.

Instructions

  1. The laying is done using a mortar specially designed for ovens. It will ensure optimal structural strength.
  2. The foundation design must be designed to withstand such a load. Otherwise, you will have to make a separate foundation.
  3. The masonry is done in half a brick. The brick is placed on the bed. We start laying from the corner, bandaging 1/3.
  4. For heat exchange, ventilation holes must be provided in the masonry.
  5. Between the rows we reinforce the masonry with mesh.
  6. After completing the masonry, we perform jointing.

Examples of brick lining a stove in a bathhouse in the photo:

Using plaster

Plaster is the most budget-friendly option for finishing a stove with your own hands. The product takes on a finished look and looks good in the interior. After plastering, you can whitewash it with a special heat-resistant compound.

This type of finishing is quite often used for brick ovens. The technology is as follows:


Tiles

A stove with tiles is a rather labor-intensive process. Technology has simplified things a bit. But until now, the construction of such a furnace takes 4-5 months, if you use the classic version. The laying and lining of the furnace occurs simultaneously. Although, in a simplified version, you can line a finished stove.

Expert opinion

Nikolay Davydov

Stove maker with 15 years of experience

The drawing can be anything. Usually Russian folk motifs are used. The sizes of tiles are regulated by GOST 3742-47. Permissible deviations should not exceed 1 mm in all directions. Thanks to standardization, the cladding process has been significantly simplified. The most important thing is to choose the right material.

Instructions

You should be guided by the following rules:

  1. Material of manufacture. Impurities in colored clay will not allow the production of high-quality tiles, so it is not used. In contrast, white clay is an ideal raw material.
  2. The quality of a product is determined by its ability to absorb water. The more pores in a tile and the larger they are, the less quality the product will be.
  3. Choose tiles made by pressing.
  4. The surface of the product should not have a dull appearance and there should be no cracks on it. This happens when a product undergoes only one firing.

For cladding, tiles must be sorted by shade. They will need to be laid in such a way that the transition is not noticeable. The size is adjusted using a rasp and an angle grinder on all sides. Defective tiles should not be thrown away immediately. They can be used later.

The next step is to mark. The thickness of the horizontal seam should not exceed 3 mm, vertical - 1 mm. Now let's move on to installation.

Lay out the first row.

The process is very labor-intensive, but the result is worth it. The first thing to do is to properly prepare the tiles for installation. This will ensure the best result.

The installation order is as follows:

  • immerse the tiles in water, waiting until the clay absorbs water;
  • the clay in the tiller will increase the heat capacity, so you need to fill it halfway;
  • steel brackets allow you to correctly connect the tiles to each other;
  • We connect a row of tiles to a row of the stove using wire.

Scheme for fastening the tiles: 1 – lump, 2 – pin, 3 – wire, 4 – staples.

Subsequent rows.

  • drill holes in the masonry;
  • We use screws and wire as a connecting element;
  • We fasten the steel pins using wire;
  • we place the tile on the pin and bend the last one;
  • the dry solution will fill all the voids between the tiles.

Sauna stove in tiles

Conclusion

The choice of this or that material for lining the stove in the bathhouse is determined by the result that needs to be obtained in the end. The most interesting option in terms of heat preservation is tiling, but it is also the most labor-intensive and expensive. If you want to veneer your stove cheaply, there is such an opportunity.

The most budget option is plastering the stove. It is best to line a metal stove with bricks. This will significantly increase the heat capacity of the oven and it will take longer to cool down.

Another great option is porcelain tiles. When deciding how to line a stove in a bathhouse, pay attention to the quality of the materials used.

To insulate the space around the stove, it is advisable to use mineralite. This is an excellent sauna cover. They are used for lining the sauna - covering wooden walls, although these slabs can also be used to cover a house.

Using the step-by-step instructions in this article, you can not only choose the right material in the best possible way, but also to do the lining of the stove itself and its surfaces with your own hands. This became the main purpose of this material.

←Previous article Next article →

Metal stoves have gained great popularity among home bath owners in recent years. The reason for this was the ease and speed of installation and affordable pricing. However, they have a number of disadvantages, ranging from unpresentable appearance and ending with the likelihood of a fire. The finishing of the stove in the bathhouse is carried out to reduce negative factors.

Decorative finishing of the stove

Distance from wooden wall to stove

Temperature during operation metal furnace in the bath reaches about 400 0. Metal heated to such a temperature can cause a fire in nearby wooden structures. In order to fire safety There are permissible distances established by SNiP from a metal heating source to the wall. In the absence of protective screens, the distance should be at least 1 meter.

In large rooms, maintaining such a distance is not difficult. But if the question concerns a small home bath, every centimeter of space is important.
To reduce the permissible distance, a number of measures are taken:


Metal screens

Installation of steel sheets allows you to reduce the fire hazard distance. From wooden surface It is enough to maintain 50 cm to the steel screen.
Protective screens made of metal can be either factory-made or welded independently. During installation, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap between the heating part of the stove and the metal screen. The presence of a ventilation duct helps heat the casing to 100 0 . Factory screens are equipped with legs and fasteners; using them, installing the sheets will not be difficult.

Brick screens

There are two options for installing a brick screen:

  • erect a brick partition only between wooden wall baths and metal stove;
  • The oven is covered with brick walls on all sides.

It is enough to leave a distance of 10-15 cm between the wooden wall and the brick screen.


A brick partition is erected only between the wooden wall of the bathhouse and the metal stove

Covering walls with heat-reflecting screens

Reflective cladding is a heat-insulating material covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. This option allows you to reduce the distance from the protective coating to the working surface of the oven to 38 cm.
Non-flammable, durable materials with low thermal conductivity are used as a protective layer that prevents the wooden surface from catching fire:

  • basalt wool(basalt canvas, basalt slabs, basalt cardboard), sometimes called - stone wool. Made from rock (basalt), it is an environmentally friendly material. It does not emit harmful compounds when heated, withstands temperatures up to 600 0 without collapsing or losing its properties. It has good water-repellent ability, does not absorb moisture at all and does not cause corrosion of adjacent materials;
  • mineralite slabs— the main component in them is cement. Capable of withstanding temperatures of 600 0, however working temperature, at which the properties do not change, is 150 0. Absorbs and releases moisture well. Minerite is harmless to the respiratory tract when heated;


Covering the walls of the bathhouse around the stove with heat-reflecting screens

  • asbestos boards or asbestos cardboard. Some consider it to be carcinogenic and harmful to health, but this has not been proven scientifically. Asbestos dust can cause harm to the body if inhaled. Covered with a metal sheet on top, asbestos has proven itself to be a good thermal insulation material;
  • expanded vermeculite slabs do not contain asbestos and are made of mountain mica. Have a small specific gravity, high mechanical strength. Such slabs can be coated with a layer of plaster and faced ceramic tiles.

The heat-insulating layer is covered with a stainless steel sheet on top. In some cases, galvanized iron is used, but it is “transparent” to IR rays. The polished surface of the steel is able to reflect heat rays, directing them back into the bathhouse.

Metal sheets are mounted on ceramic mounts that are not subject to strong heat. For free circulation of air flows, preventing heating of the wooden wall, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap. To do this, a ventilation gap is provided between the heat-insulating layer and the wall. The screen is mounted, leaving a distance above the floor and above the ceiling.


Sheathing followed by cladding

You can ensure an aesthetically presentable appearance of the bathhouse by decorating the heat-insulating layer with fire-resistant tiles, the installation of which must be done with heat-resistant glue.
To ensure high thermal insulation protection of the wooden surface from the heat of the stove, fire-resistant materials are mounted on it, which can be used as:

  • glass magnetic sheets resistant to high temperatures and high humidity environment. They are characterized by high elasticity and mechanical strength. When heated, they do not emit toxic substances;
  • expanded vermiculite sheets;
  • mineralite slabs.

Facing types: tiles

The following types of tiles have proven themselves well for cladding thermal insulation areas:

  • Terracotta tiles. Eco-friendly unglazed tiles made from colored clay without mechanical impurities through long-term firing in ovens. Has increased heat resistance and does not emit when heated harmful substances and specific odors. During operation it does not lose its original color. It has a color palette from gray to beige. It has textured options for wood and stone. Able to retain heat for a long time.
  • Clinker tiles made from shale clay. It is fired at a temperature of about 1200 0 in one cycle. Does not cause harm to health during the heating process. Such tiles are durable, have increased resistance to abrasion and color loss. The palette of produced colors ranges from black to white.


Facing tiles around the stove in the bathhouse

  • Porcelain tiles. Artificial finishing material consisting of clay, quartz sand and kaolin. It withstands humid environments and high temperatures well and is not destroyed by thermal shock. Possesses for a long period operation. Manufacturers produce glazed, matte, polished porcelain tiles, structured to resemble leather, wood, and stone.
  • Soapstone tiles. Natural material of mountain origin, most often gray in color, but interspersed with brown, cherry, yellow and green shades. Withstands repeated heating and high humidity, accumulates and releases heat well.

Installation of a brick casing around a metal plate

The brick casing for shielding the furnace has significant weight, and prerequisite for its installation is the presence of a foundation.

Foundation structure

If the brickwork around a metal stove is made in a bathhouse that has already been built, the floor covering will have to be dismantled.
The size of the concrete base is calculated by adding the size of the brickwork 20 cm + ventilation gap 10 cm + horizontal dimensions of the metal furnace.
Installation begins by selecting a layer of soil. The depth depends on the degree of soil freezing and is about 60 cm.


Reinforcing grid under the stove in the bathhouse

In the case of close groundwater, geotextiles or roofing felt, well coated with bitumen mastic, are laid on the bottom and sides of the pit.
A sand cushion is installed on the base of the resulting pit. The sand is laid wet and compacted thoroughly. A layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured on top and compacted.
Add another layer of sand 15 cm thick.

  • assemble a reinforcing grid from reinforcement or metal rods, with a cell size of 10*10;
  • poured concrete mortar, not reaching the edges of the pit by 10 cm;
  • after this, the concrete needs time to “mature” for three weeks;
  • several layers of roofing material are laid on top of the concrete base and a heat-resistant slab is installed;
  • lay a continuous row of bricks, which should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the refractory sheet; voids in the masonry are also unacceptable. Excess solution is immediately removed;
  • the second row is laid similarly to the first, but with offset seams;
  • observance of the horizontal plane is considered a mandatory condition.

You can purchase a ready-made solution in a store or use a sand-clay mixture. To determine the best ratio of sand and clay, make a small batch from which a cylinder or bar is formed. Pay attention to possible appearance cracks, the absence of which is an indicator of quality.


Preparing masonry mortar for a stove in a bathhouse

It is preferable to use clay used for masonry from deep layers, without earthen and mechanical impurities.

To give the clay the required consistency and plasticity, it is kept in water for several days, after which it is ground through a sieve to remove debris.
A 1:1 proportion of clay and sand is considered good; liquid is added to it in small portions.
A high-quality mixture does not stick to the trowel and does not drip from it. When running a trowel over the solution, the mark left behind should not blur or have a torn structure.
To improve the quality of masonry add rock salt at the rate of 0.1 kg per bucket of ready-made solution. It is also good to add cement and fireclay powder.

Technological process of furnace lining

The laying of a protective casing around a metal plate is carried out:

  • red solid brick, which has a high degree of heat resistance and a long service life;
  • fireclay brick, which has the same characteristics, but a higher cost;


Lining the stove with bricks in the bathhouse

  • ceramic refractory brick: it has all the positive properties solid brick, but at the same time it has a more aesthetic appearance and can be used as a facing brick.

In some cases, masonry is carried out with hollow bricks, but it must be taken into account that it has worse heat retention characteristics.
It is advisable to soak the brick before starting work. Dry brick is able to quickly absorb the liquid fraction through capillaries and does not allow the binding part of the solution to penetrate inside to increase the adhesion of the masonry. In the summer, this method is not difficult.

If the construction process takes place in autumn-spring period, in cold, damp weather, dry the wet brick in finished product quite problematic. Heating for drying means dealing a blow to the strength even before the stove starts operating: uneven heating will destroy the seams. It is also impossible to leave the stove undried over the winter; the cold will tear the masonry under the influence of negative temperatures. In this case, make a more liquid solution and slightly wet the surface of the brick.
If there is insufficient construction experience, for the convenience of maintaining a horizontal plane, stretch a cord or fishing line around the perimeter of the masonry. The inconvenience of this method is the need to raise the fishing line with each row.


Usually the masonry is finished flush with the level of the slab, but in some cases the pipe is also hidden to give a presentable appearance

  • A metal oven can be temporarily insulated with polyethylene to avoid contamination.
  • Laying the row begins from the corner. Most often, they use half-brick masonry, placing each one on a bed (flat). To save money, they are sometimes placed on a spoon (edge).
  • The thickness of all seams should be the same with good filling with mortar.
  • Each row is laid with reinforcing mesh to increase the strength of the masonry.
  • The second row also starts from the corner, but uses the first half of the brick to offset the seams.

Typically, most owners of steam rooms choose factory-made cast iron or steel products as a sauna stove. Some owners use their own stove. But in any case, over time, the conclusion suggests itself: something needs to be done to protect the heating structure from the general space of the steam room.

How to cover a stove in a bathhouse with bricks so that after the work is completed it not only looks beautiful, but also improves the thermal characteristics of the heating unit?

What is the purpose of lining a sauna stove?

People who are well versed in “sauna” issues are confident that in order to create a “correct” iron sauna stove, it should be lined with high-quality bricks. This type of heater is characterized by the supply of soft heat, light steam while remaining hot for a long time.

Some people believe that a significant disadvantage of lining a metal sauna stove with brick is that the period of time required to achieve the desired temperature in the steam room is too long. Plus, to build a brick structure, a considerable amount of money is required for materials. This is provided that you do the laying yourself.

Considering these circumstances, many people prefer metal sauna stoves without brick lining. Although, over time, it becomes obvious that such stove devices have a number of disadvantages that are absent in their brick counterparts:

  • fast heating, but also fast cooling;
  • Hard heat is emitted from the hot metal walls, which causes some discomfort for visitors in the steam room.

So how can you cover a stove in a bathhouse so that it is cheap, beautiful, and does not affect the quality of the structure’s functioning?

Craftsmen found universal solution: for protection from infrared radiation and for the purpose of heat accumulation, it is necessary to install some kind of barrier in the form of a brick partition between the metal structure and the space of the steam room. That's why, optimal solution was found: it is necessary to cover the bath unit with bricks. This option is relatively cheap and effective.

Which brick to use

Before starting the main work, you must decide on the material. How to line a stove in a bathhouse, what materials are used for this?

Often such structures are built from bricks available in household. And this is normal, since everyone wants to spend the minimum amount of money with maximum return. Therefore, at home there is always a whole brick (silicate, red ceramic - solid and hollow production, fireclay), or pieces of them.

If we start with silicate brick, it should be noted that such a brick is an ideal option for cladding a house and outbuildings. It perfectly withstands the effects of precipitation and is therefore durable. But it is not at all suitable for lining metal sauna stoves. The fact is that in bath conditions such a brick will not withstand long and will begin to deteriorate, since its main ingredient is slaked lime, which absorbs moisture well.

A good option for creating a thermal partition is fireclay (fireproof) type of brick. It easily tolerates sudden temperature changes and has a high heat capacity. True, the appearance would like to be better. But this is not a problem, since after lining you can also use porcelain stoneware, as well as other materials.

Advice! It is advisable to cover a sauna stove with refractory bricks in cases where you have more of it than in sufficient quantity. And purchasing it specifically for this purpose is very expensive. Therefore, we need to think about using it in another, more necessary place in the home construction site.

Refractory brick is used in cases where between the masonry and metal surface a small distance - from 1 to 2 cm. At the same time, the brick will warm up to a temperature of 350-400⁰С.

When the gap is within 6-9 cm, the heating will drop to 180-200⁰C, which is caused by a sharp increase in air speed in the gap between the stove and the partition.


An excellent option for lining a stove in a bathhouse is red brick. Preferably full-bodied, although hollow is also suitable. But still, it is better to choose, if possible, the first option, since the hollow one has a small heat capacity and the heat will not last long.

Important! The main thing is to perfectly align the first row.

After this, you should begin laying the corners, not forgetting to tie the rows of bricks.

There is no need to rush, as it is recommended to do the styling within 2 days. This is due to the fact that on the first day it is necessary to level the base and lay only 5 rows. And on the next one, after checking the shrinkage first, lay out the remaining 8 rows.

Important! For better adhesion of the mortar to the brick, it is necessary to immerse each pebble in salt water for 12-15 minutes.

Do not forget about control over the horizontal and vertical in the laid rows.

Would be nice as a dressing corner bricks use steel wire or mesh. You can also whole line strengthen with reinforcement or fiberglass. In the latter option, a mounting belt can be made on the surface of the row in order to embed 4 mm plastic. To reinforce fireclay bricks, it is best to use iron materials.

The lining is best done in the shape of a well with two rows of windows: at the top and in the middle of the structure. Perfect option when using half a brick, placed at a certain angle to the wall, as a lintel. Thanks to this design, the air in the gap begins to move better, which leads to a decrease in the temperature inside the well, eliminating, at the same time, excess heating of the air inside the steam room.

Quite popular are designs with finishing inside the well using bath stone. This option prevents water splashes from stones from entering the gap between the screen and the stove. And this is good, since heated fireclay and, especially, red brick are easily destroyed by hot water.

A metal sauna stove is lined not just for beauty. As numerous reviews testify, this event significantly improves the atmosphere in the steam room. And this despite the fact that every bathhouse owner can do the brick lining with his own hands if it is not possible to build a brick stove. Therefore, the work will be completed with minimal financial costs and with high quality, as a result of which the bathhouse will have not only an attractive appearance, but also an internal thermal environment that is beneficial to health. Good luck!

If the stove is made of ordinary stove bricks, not everyone may like its appearance, but if used bricks are also used, then finishing the stove is extremely desirable. There are only two methods - plastering and finishing with tiles or stone (covering with sheet iron, of course, is also a solution, but this is not finishing). But at the same time, the appearance can be very different - from a super-modern to a “terem” version.

One of the most common options for finishing a stove is plaster. Although the method is common, many questions arise: too often the surface cracks, in some cases it even falls off in pieces or completely. In order to avoid such a situation, you need to know some subtleties.

Plastering and finishing with tiles or stone are two ways to tidy up the stove

Preparation

All finishing work is carried out only after final drying and basic shrinkage of the oven. Otherwise, no matter how hard you try, there will be a lot of cracks.

There is one reliable method, but it takes a lot of time. However, once well-made, stove plaster can last for years. So here's the process. Before you start plastering work, the seams are deepened by about 1 cm. Then all surfaces are covered with plaster or painting mesh (wire 2-3 mm, pitch 5 cm), nailed or screwed in with self-tapping screws. This is a simpler option.


For greater reliability, you can hammer the nails yourself and wind the wire between them. Nail length - 80-100 mm, soft burnt wire, 2-3 mm in diameter, copper can be used. Drive the nails not into the brick, but into the vertical seams, where two bricks meet. The caps should stick out 2-4 mm; a wire is wound onto them.

Why is this method better? In highly thermally stressed areas, more nails can be driven in, making the reinforcement more reliable. The second advantage is that such reinforcement is more flexible and better compensates for different degrees of expansion/contraction of various materials, preventing the finishing layer from falling off.


In order for the surface to be perfectly flat, as required by modern construction standards, it is easier to place beacons and plaster them using well-known technology.


Is there some more traditional methods reinforcement of stove plaster. A layer of plaster mortar (usually gilina) is applied to the surface, burlap is spread on it, through which the mortar is pressed. Sometimes burlap is secured with nails, which are nailed in several places. Even if the trim peels off, it will hang and won't fall off.

Fiberglass fabric can be used in a similar way; gauze is also suitable in thermally unstressed areas. All of these are ways to keep the stove plaster from falling off.

Clay-based sauna stove plaster solution

Most often, stoves are plastered with ordinary clay mortar. It should be of normal fat content. If best option I can’t find a solution; it’s better to plaster with a “super-greasy” solution than with a dry one. Cracks form in the greasy one, but it holds up well. The resulting cracks can then be whitened with lime or rubbed with a leaner composition. If the clay solution is thin (there is too much sand in it), then it will definitely crumble.

So, we determine the fat content of the clay, then we make test batches, adding different amounts of sand. From the resulting solution we make sausages as thick as a finger. We leave them to dry for 2 days (in the shade, not in a draft). Then we wrap the sausage around the stalk. In a normal solution, external cracks appear and the wet middle cracks slightly. In thin mortar, there are many cracks and they are deep; in oily mortar, only the surface cracks, almost without affecting the inner layer. We choose the option with “normal” indicators. .


With the help of these experiments, you have determined in what proportion you need to add sand. In addition, in order to make the surface crack even less, a reinforcing substance is added. They are of both natural and artificial origin:

  • dried horse manure (when dried, there may be a characteristic odor);
  • bran;
  • fluffed asbestos;
  • mineral fiber;
  • sawdust;
  • fiber fiber (used for concrete reinforcement);
  • basalt fiber.

These additives are administered in small quantities in almost ready solution. If necessary, add water so that the composition is thick but remains plastic. The degree of plasticity is checked simply: we run the edge of a trowel along the surface of the solution. There should be a clear mark with well-formed edges that do not “float.” The cut surface should be smooth and not torn. If the edges are floating, add a little sand or clay dough; if the surface is “torn,” add a little water.


The consistency of the clay solution is a thick paste.

Another popular additive is salt. It is administered from 100 g to 200 g per bucket of solution. What does salt do in plaster mortar? It retains a certain amount of moisture, preventing the clay from drying out, which prevents the appearance of deep cracks. Also, when drying, salt prevents the surface from warping. You can make a cake from a regular Gilnyan sand solution and with the addition of salt and see the result after drying.

On the other hand, if the stove is heated periodically, the plaster and salt begin to crumble in a humid atmosphere. So, such an additive is definitely not suitable for bathhouses or summer cottages for periodic visits.

If you are plastering with a clay composition, first heat the oven and begin work while it is warm. Why heat the oven? Because when the clay dries, it shrinks quite a lot - its surface shrinks. After heating the oven, we will achieve a certain thermal expansion and apply a layer of clay or lime plaster to the already enlarged surface. When drying/cooling, both the brick surface and the applied plaster contract. This reduces the likelihood of a large number of cracks appearing. If they exist, they will not be so significant, and not in such large quantities.


Plastering a stove with clay - it’s difficult to avoid cracks

Cement based solutions

Another way is to use a standard plaster solution, with the addition of one part of clay - for elasticity. The composition looks like this: cement - 1 part, sand 3 parts, fatty clay - 1 part. The trick is that you need aluminous cement with increased heat resistance, but it is expensive. In principle, you can use ordinary Portland cement, but high-quality one.

In other regions, some lime paste is added to increase the strength of the oven plaster mortar. If you want to good result, it’s better to buy lime dough rather than quench it yourself. No matter how hard you try, tiny unslaked particles remain in homemade slaked lime. During operation, they absorb water vapor, are extinguished, increasing in size, tearing the surface of the plaster. As a result, the finish falls off or becomes cavernous.


In some cases, PVA is added to solutions, which makes it more plastic. But you won’t be able to plaster the stove again after using such a solution. A thin film, invisible to the eye, forms on the surface of the brick, with which no solution can adhere. Adhesion is practically zero. So this supplement is more likely to be harmful than beneficial.

When plastering a stove with a cement-based mortar, the sequence of actions changes slightly. Preparation consists of knocking off the old finish, strengthening/weaving the mesh, followed by the most thorough removal of dirt and dust. Then the brick is generously moistened with water, and wet surface The plaster is already being applied.

Features of plastering stoves

There is one tip that concerns the technique of applying clay plaster. Do not apply a thick layer of solution at once. It is advisable to divide the total thickness into at least two times. The purpose of the first application is to “adhere” well to the brick, as well as to create a base for applying the second layer. Therefore, by pressing the solution through a mesh or burlap, the surface is not smoothed, but is left uneven, rough and lumpy. Only the largest protrusions that may interfere with further work are removed. Those who don’t like chaos can be advised to “smooth” the clay with a notched trowel, making grooves across it. This will be a good basis both for applying the next layer and for laying tiles and stone.


The first layer dries under normal conditions, without increasing the temperature. This means that the stove cannot be lit. After complete drying, the next batch of mortar can be applied and leveled. If it is dry and hot outside, it is advisable to regularly moisten the surface of the plaster with water.

Using store-bought mixtures

Not everyone wants to tinker with clay, select the composition, and conduct tests. Easier to buy ready-made composition and use it to plaster the stove. Simpler, but much more expensive. To plaster a stove, you can use special adhesives for plastering stoves or laying tiles on them. But they cost from $30 to $180 per bag. In a bag - 20 kg. How many bags you need is a matter of oven size and layer thickness.


But in this case, everything is simple: dilute strictly according to the instructions and apply according to the rules described in the same instructions. Based on experience of use, we can say that you need to look at the composition. The mixture must contain a reinforcing agent. Also pay attention to the area of ​​application: baths require car resistance, which is not so common.

Specifically by brand, here are the ready-made mixtures that have already been tested:

  • Plitonite Superfireplace Fireproof.
  • Petronix KU. This composition gives a smoother surface, but is suitable for surfaces with temperatures above 70°C, i.e. if there is no firebox lining (no heat-insulating layer or not lined with heat-resistant bricks on the inside), then it cannot be used.
  • Heat-resistant Terracotta plaster. Range of use: up to +400°C, suitable for any type of oven.
  • Wolfshäuer plaster mixtures on marble chips are dazzling white. Withstands heating up to +300°C, which is also more than enough.

Photo report on plastering the stove

In this case, the master used a reinforcing mesh: the brick had many cracks, and the small cell simultaneously reinforces the masonry. Cleaned off first old finish, everything is removed, down to the bare brick. The seams deepen approximately 1 cm.



The surface is cleaned of dust - first with a broom, then with a thick brush. Then the mesh is fixed.



To ensure that the surface of the oven is level, beacons are placed. Standard galvanized or stainless steel construction beacons are used. Plastering on them is carried out as usual. Only first the composition is applied and leveled around the casting, and then the entire surface is tightened.



The composition for plaster is as follows: 1 part cement, 2 parts mountain sand, 2 parts river sand, 200 grams of salt. Clay is not added at all, because it dries out too much, causing cracks to appear.

Before starting work, the oven is well wetted so that it is moist during operation. The kiln is not heated until the cement has fully gained strength (28 days).

After the plaster has dried, you can glue the tiles (using heat-resistant tile adhesive), paint, whitewash, do whatever you like.


Finishing the stove with tiles

You can give the stove an attractive look by finishing it with tiles. There are special tiles for stoves that are heat-resistant, but they cost a lot. There are special tiles, but they are laid during the construction of the stove (they cost even more). For the most part, ordinary ceramic tiles are used for stove cladding. If it is of normal quality and laid correctly, nothing happens to it. There are two restrictions:

  • use tiles of small formats, as it has been noticed that they hold up better;
  • do not use gypsum-based tiles - they greatly reduce heat transfer.

Stoves are usually plastered for cladding cement compositions. When clay dries, it shrinks very much, which is why the tiles inevitably fall off. Moreover, it is recommended to use the same composition for plastering and gluing tiles - this guarantees good adhesion.

A few more technological points that relate to laying tiles near furnace castings and other metal elements. The gap between the edges of the tile and the metal should be about 5 mm. This gap should be left empty, without mortar. It is subsequently laid asbestos cord, and they cover it on top tile adhesive, rubbed with grout. This way, when heated, the metal will not tear or squeeze out the tile.


First technology: with pre-plaster

Craftsmen who finish brick stoves advise first plastering the stove. After the plaster has dried, you can glue the tiles using a special heat-resistant adhesive. If you adhere to this technology, then preparatory stage will be exactly the same as with plastering (described above):


After the plaster has dried, the tiles are glued using conventional technology. Some craftsmen place the tiles on a heated stove, others - on a warm one. There are styling options without heating. The technology is no different from conventional finishing work, the only difference is that the seams are made larger - from 3 mm and they try to leave them unfilled.


To maintain the seams, the same crosses are used. They are then filled with gypsum grout, which is more elastic and less prone to cracking. In this case, the seams compensate for thermal expansion.

Technology two - straight to glue

If the surface of the stove is initially smooth, but the appearance of the bricks is disappointing, you can try gluing the tiles directly onto the brick. Only it must be clean, without any dirt or dust. Take heat-resistant glue for lining stoves or fireplaces (there are such). Dilute strictly according to the instructions, also according to the instructions, apply the composition to the tiles and glue it to the brick.

There is one trick: if the tile format is such that it overlaps several bricks, the glue should be on only one of them. The rest remain empty. The solutions have a high degree of adhesion and hold well even in this situation. And this method allows you to bypass different amounts of thermal expansion different materials(the seams expand more, which is why the tiles glued to two bricks can tear). But this furnace lining technique has a disadvantage: voids filled with air do not conduct heat well, and heat transfer drops significantly. In this case, there is one way out: buy tiles the size of a brick. It is difficult to find the required sizes, but some craftsmen cut smaller ones from large-format ones, with the required dimensions.


There is a technology that combines the two described above. The stove is lined with masonry mesh with 50*50 mm, wire diameter 0.5-1 mm. They nail the mesh with staples - powerful ones from a construction gun, or using finishing nails. The mesh should fit tightly. The tiles are laid on this base without prior plastering. The disadvantage of this technology is the high consumption of expensive glue.

Tile adhesive on stove

What tile adhesive can be used in this technology? The following heat-resistant brands performed normally:

  • Plitonite VT;
  • Retainer;
  • Emelya glue from Pyramid, suitable even for finishing with torn stone;
  • Ceresit 17;
  • Fireproof;

Torn stone glued to Emelya glue

About finishing the sauna stove

Everything said above also applies to brick sauna stoves, but only to those located in heated rooms. If you have a bathhouse that you visit periodically and it freezes, it is useless to finish the stove. No matter how hard you try, no matter what techniques you use, everything will fall off.

When moving the furnace from a deep “minus” to an even deeper “plus”, the temperature expansions are too great. After several such transitions, bricks tear, and even more so plaster and tiles. In this mode of operation, brick ovens last no longer than 4-6 years. Then move them anyway.

All this is true for heating and heating-cooking options that cost unheated dachas, and which are periodically, several times during the winter, melted. There is only one way out - at the dacha, cover it with sheet iron and calm down, and in the bathhouse - come to terms with the not very attractive appearance.


A Russian bathhouse built according to all the rules is always a source of pride for its owner. After visiting the steam room, your health improves and problems fade into the background - this is a place where you can have a wonderful rest. The “heart” of a sauna building is considered to be a stove, the lining of which is of no small importance.

Stove in the bathhouse

The main room in the bath building is the steam room, where the temperature should be high during the procedures. Steam is no less important. In order for the steam room to function in the desired mode, the stove, the main element of the entire bath, will help to achieve the necessary parameters.

When building or purchasing a heating unit, you must pay attention to the compliance of its functionality with a number of requirements:

  • quick heating of the room;
  • resistance of the furnace structure to high temperatures;
  • the ability to work for a long period;
  • beautiful appearance.

Of no small importance for the full functioning of the furnace in the future is the quality of the materials used for its manufacture.

Sauna stove lining

A heating unit installed in a bathhouse must not only provide the required temperature regime, but also have beautiful view. One of the best solutions in this case is deservedly considered to be lining the stove in the bathhouse.

When finishing a stove structure, the following are most often used:

Each of the above materials has its own quality characteristics.

Using tiles for finishing stoves

Tiles are a popular type of material used to decorate a sauna stove due to its affordable price and ease of installation.

When lining a stove structure, the following types can be used:

  1. Clinker tiles. For its production, clay is used, adding energy melters, fireclay and various dyes.
  2. Majolica tiles. These ceramic products are made from fired clay and covered with glaze. Finished products It has a bright and rich color, which is clearly visible in the photo. If desired, ornaments and designs can be applied to such tiles.
  3. Terracotta tiles. In terms of the components used in the production process, it has much in common with Majolica. But such a lining for a sauna stove is not covered with glaze. The main advantage of “Terracotta” is its high strength. The product is produced in a round shape.
  4. Marble tiles. A stove with such a finish looks presentable, creating an atmosphere of coziness and comfort in the room. These marble products are characterized by strength and durability. This type of tile has no disadvantages.

Finishing the stove with bricks

This design option for the heating unit is not only economical, but also easy to implement.

Finishing the stove in a bathhouse with brick has advantages, including:

  • rapid heating to the desired temperature and maintaining it for a long time;
  • The furnace structure is not destroyed by steam and moisture.

Stone in the design of sauna stoves

When finishing a stove in a bathhouse decorative stone(artificial or natural), the interior of the room takes on a noble and aesthetic appearance. If the heating unit in a bath building is lined with such material, it belongs to top-class buildings.

Application of steel case

When using this type of finishing, a metal frame is placed on the surface of the furnace and covered with steel panels. Thanks to the steel case, heat is retained and at the same time optimal level warming up the room. But this type of cladding has a significant drawback - when the furnace heats up, the material also begins to heat up and a person’s touch to it is fraught with serious burns.

Plastering the walls of the furnace structure

If you choose the most inexpensive and simplest option than finishing a stove in a bathhouse, then using plaster will be the optimal solution.

The work is carried out in two stages:

  1. The walls of the stove are plastered to remove dust and dirt.
  2. The second time, plaster is used to level surfaces, leveling chips and dents.

After completion of work, it is advisable to whitewash the stove structure with lime.

Tiles for cladding

An ancient method of tiling is laying tiles. This finishing of the sauna stove portal and its surfaces gives the structure an unusual and rather original appearance. As a result of tile cladding, the stove in the room becomes a separate element of the interior.

Only a master can perform this reliable and durable finish. As a result, the furnace design has more high degree heat transfer compared to the use of other finishing materials.

Finishing a stove in a bathhouse: cladding with brick, decorative stone, portal tiles for a sauna stove, what is better to finish it with, photos and videos


Finishing a stove in a bathhouse: cladding with brick, decorative stone, portal tiles for a sauna stove, what is better to finish it with, photos and videos

Finishing the stove in the bathhouse: practical and reliable materials for cladding

A stove in a bathhouse is not only a device for heating rooms, but also stylish element interior Therefore, special attention is paid to its external cladding. The construction market offers reliable and practical materials, from which the stove in the bathhouse is finished.

Right choice suitable material depends on the design idea, interior style and financial capabilities of the customer.

Features of the decorative lining of the stove

High-quality finishing of a sauna stove must meet basic operational requirements: withstand high humidity, temperature changes, ensure durability and safety of the surface. The lined stove should quickly heat the bath rooms and create a comfortable microclimate inside.

Lining a stove in a bathhouse has a number of advantages, including the following:

  • fast and uniform heating of rooms;
  • heat accumulation for a long time;
  • minimal risk of getting burned from a heated oven;
  • the air does not dry out;
  • simplicity and accessibility of maintenance of finished cladding;
  • attractive appearance of heating equipment;
  • resistance to mechanical damage and deformations.

Types of stove lining

Apart from the fact that the oven is the main heating equipment, it also performs an aesthetic function.

The cladding of the sauna stove is made using practical and durable decorative materials:

  • ceramic tiles;
  • refractory bricks;
  • artificial and natural stone;
  • decorative plaster;
  • tiles;
  • frame made of metal plates.

All materials are highly performance characteristics and installation features.

Ceramic tiles - elegance and durability

The best material for lining a sauna stove is ceramic tiles. It is easy to install, affordable and durable.

The following types of tiles are used for facing work:

  • Clinker room. It is made from red clay with the addition of fireclay, melting agent and dye.
  • Majolica. Material with a pressed base, covered with a protective glaze layer. This type of tile stands out for its rich color scheme, decorative patterns and ornaments.
  • Terracotta. A facing material whose performance characteristics are similar to majolica. Important differences are the porous structure and the absence of a protective glaze. Terracotta is characterized by durability, increased strength and resistance to mechanical damage. This type of tile is made in a round shape.
  • Marble. This material is distinguished by its increased wear resistance, practicality and ease of installation, and is devoid of almost all disadvantages.

When choosing this type of finish, stove owners are asked important issue, which tiles are best for heating equipment. Experts believe that the best option is a material that has a minimum coefficient of thermal expansion and a dense structure - clinker tiles.

Firebrick: reliability and safety

Decorating a sauna stove with brick is the simplest and most cost-effective option for owners who decide to do the cladding themselves.

The material has a number of advantages:

  • fast and safe heating;
  • accumulation and maintenance of heat for a long time;
  • resistance to high moisture;
  • low cost and ease of installation.

Work on lining the stove in a bathhouse with bricks consists of arranging a reliable decorative screen around the entire perimeter of the equipment. To increase aesthetics and attractiveness, it is allowed to combine materials of different colors.

Artificial and natural stone: exquisite nobility

The main advantage of cladding with decorative stone is the creation of a noble and attractive appearance. High strength, durability, environmental friendliness, resistance to high temperatures, a variety of color palettes and textures allow the material to be used for finishing bath rooms.

The following types of stones are used for facing work:

Decorative stones can withstand an unlimited amount of heating, they accumulate well thermal energy and maintain the set temperature for a long time. In addition, this material is resistant to acids and alkalis.

In terms of their performance characteristics, artificial elements are not inferior to natural stones. With their help, you can qualitatively line a stove in a steam room or a fireplace in your home.

The technology for laying stones is simple and therefore does not require additional preparation. Non-standard shapes of elements can cause some difficulties during the fitting process, so before installation it is recommended to lay out the material on a flat base. The stones are numbered and fixed on the surface of the furnace using an adhesive composition.

Decorative plaster: simplicity and accessibility

A simple option for lining a Russian stove is plastering the surfaces. Over time, decorative and protective properties plaster composition are reduced, which will require frequent renewal of the cladding.

Important! Decorative plaster is used only for brick stoves and is not suitable for metal devices.

Plastering a stove in a bathhouse is simple; all work is performed in the following order:

  • the surface is cleaned of dust, debris and remains of the connecting solution;
  • the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm;
  • Before the cladding begins, the oven warms up;
  • a mesh of metal rods is installed on the surface with wire fixation;
  • the surface is moistened and a primary layer of plaster mixture is applied;
  • After the plaster has hardened, a second layer is applied.

The thickness of each subsequent layer does not exceed 6 mm. The plaster solution is applied using a trowel and leveled over the surface with a spatula. When plastering the surface, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of defects - air bubbles and sagging.

After hardening upper layer thoroughly cleaned until a smooth surface is obtained.

Tiles: originality and practicality

The use of tiles is an ancient way of cladding stove equipment for a bath. Tiles are tiles made from pottery plastic clay by firing in a kiln at a temperature of more than 1000 degrees. On back side tiles have pumps designed to fix the material on any surface. Tiles are presented in several categories:

  • with a smooth surface;
  • majolica;
  • with glazed surface;
  • with a relief surface.

Tiles are distinguished by high performance characteristics - durability, practicality, strength and high heat transfer.

The work of tiling should be entrusted to professionals who will do a good job of installing the material on the surface of the stoves.

Metal frame: accessibility and safety

A sauna stove can be lined with a metal frame, which is installed on top of the device and covered with protective shields. The steel frame provides reliable protection the furnace portal and the optimal level of heating of the air in the room.

This type of cladding has the following advantages:

  • accumulates released thermal energy;
  • quickly heats the air and walls in the room;
  • is different affordable price and ease of installation.

A serious drawback of such cladding is the likelihood of burns upon direct contact with the surface. Therefore, experts do not recommend installing metal frames for stoves in bathhouses in order to avoid possible injuries.

Smart choice decorative material for cladding and compliance technological process will provide correct operation sauna stove and creating a comfortable indoor microclimate.

Cladding a stove in a bathhouse: we look at how to finish it with ceramic tiles, decorative stone and plaster


A stove in a bathhouse is not only a device for heating rooms, but also a stylish element of the interior. Therefore, special attention is paid to its external cladding.

Cladding a metal stove in a bathhouse with bricks

Metal stoves, which are so popular among Russian bath lovers, are improved with brick cladding. Why is this necessary? The fact is that a metal stove, despite all its advantages, has a number of disadvantages. The following disadvantages of iron can be noted:

  • thermal radiation negatively affects human health, brings certain inconveniences;
  • to maintain the required temperature, the furnace must be heated all the time, because the iron cools quickly;
  • the metal surface must be insulated due to the possibility of overheating.

Due to these metal deficiencies, additional lining of the sauna stove is required. Why is brick used for this purpose? Firstly, hot brick not as dangerous to humans as metal. It does not threaten such serious burns. Secondly, if you cover the stove, it does not cool down so quickly, which significantly reduces heating costs. In addition, the following advantages can be noted:

  • a covered metal stove does not dry the air, the steam will be more humid;
  • heat in the steam room spreads more evenly - the air is softer and more even;
  • Using facing bricks you can give a beautiful, designer appearance to the steam room itself.

How to line an iron stove with bricks?

Finishing the stove in the bathhouse is not at all difficult. Let's divide the process into four stages, you need to:

  1. Select materials.
  2. Pour the foundation.
  3. Cladding a metal stove.
  4. Perform decorative work.

Let's look at each point in more detail.

Selection of materials for work

What kind of brick is best to line a stove? It is necessary to take into account that the facing brick will be constantly exposed to high temperatures and must withstand all loads. Therefore, it is better to line the stove with a refractory solid material that copes with the assigned tasks and retains its properties for many years. In addition, you can line the bathhouse with both smooth and textured bricks.

For brick cladding oven need to use fireproof material

In addition, for lining the furnace you will need:

Pouring the foundation

Pouring the foundation is an extremely important stage of lining a bathhouse, because it directly affects the reliability of the bathhouse and its service life.

First of all, you will need to mix the solution. A traditional mixture of clay and sand is perfect for this purpose. In addition to it, cement-based solutions with various impurities are used. They may seem like they are more reliable (because they are more expensive), but in reality their durability differs little.

Scheme of pouring the foundation for the furnace

Once you have decided on the facing mortar, you can begin pouring the foundation. If the plane used does not inspire confidence, then you will have to pour a foundation under it. Additionally, you can reinforce the floor with boards or metal guides. In other cases, the process is simpler.

The foundation is poured in the following way:

  1. Determine the size of the base.
  2. Place the formwork.
  3. Prepare the solution.
  4. Fill it up.
  5. Wait until it dries.

Brick laying

When the foundation has completely set, you can begin laying. Before starting this stage, in order to properly line the stove, mark the location of the brick.

First of all, calculate the required space from the stove to the walls. Too large a space will interfere with high-quality heating and heat transfer, too small will significantly reduce the service life of the brick. The optimal space is 3-5 centimeters.

Place an iron sheet along the edges of the markings. Such a sheet will protect the material from overheating. Place asbestos cardboard on it. This refractory material will additionally protect the brick from wear and tear.

Scheme of brick lining of a metal stove

Upon completion of all these preparatory work, you can line the bathhouse. To get the desired result, follow these instructions:

  1. Soak the brick in water. Don't forget to soak it before styling.
  2. Shake it, the first row should be laid solid.
  3. You can use reinforcement to strengthen the masonry.
  4. Tie wire around the corners of the mesh.
  5. Start laying the second row in a staggered pattern.
  6. Apply the mortar into the space between the bricks.
  7. Reinforce the top edge of the hole with a metal corner. This is done to construct the firebox opening. Please note that the opening should be comfortable, the firebox should open without touching the walls.
  8. To ensure air circulation, special holes are made in the penultimate row. To do this, one row is laid across the previous one and four holes are made on each side.
  9. Laying the finishing row does not require anything specific - you can do it the way you want. You can make it decorative, cover it with tiles or simply pour stones.

When lining a bathhouse with bricks, you can level it by lightly tapping it with the handle of a trowel or hammer.

As for the laying technology, keep the seams within 3-5 centimeters, do not forget to bandage the brick.

Decorative works

Before the beginning decorative works, clean up any remaining traces of solution. If you don’t want to additionally finish the brick, you can make a so-called “fur coat”. To do this, sand it with a brush dipped in soapy water.

Most often, a sauna stove is decorated with:

  • smooth multi-colored brick;
  • textured brick.

You can also tile or paint it, or decorate it with some kind of decoration.

In conclusion, we would like to say that the first firebox must be done very carefully. Do not heat the oven too much; allow the solution to completely harden. After covering the stove, wait three days. If you do everything right, your bathhouse will serve you for many years.

Cladding a stove in a bathhouse with bricks: doing the lining correctly, instructions for finishing a metal sauna stove


Lining a stove in a bathhouse with bricks - what to use and how to properly make the lining with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction for finishing a metal sauna stove.

Finishing the stove in the bathhouse

What is the significance of a bathhouse for a Russian person? This is not just a place to wash. This is a place where a person relaxes and can allow himself to relax. We can say that the bathhouse is one of our favorite places to relax. Finishing the stove in the bathhouse is not the least important.

The heart of the bathhouse

What is the heart, the basis of any bath? Steam and high temperature are important in the bath. To achieve them, you need to build a furnace. It is this that is the key element of the entire bath complex.

It is very important to pay special attention to the compliance of the sauna stove with the following requirements:

  • high temperature resistance;
  • possibility of long-term continuous operation;
  • quick heating of the room.

When building a stove, you should pay special attention to the materials for its manufacture. All further operation of the bathhouse will depend on their quality.

What could the cladding be like?

The stove in the bath should not only provide the maximum level of heat, but also have an aesthetic appearance. Perhaps the best solution would be to line the stove.

Furnace finishing can be done using the following materials:

  1. Tile.
  2. Brick.
  3. A natural stone.
  4. Fake diamond.
  5. Steel case.
  6. Plaster.
  7. Tiles.

Each of the presented materials has its own characteristics and characteristics.

This type material is one of the most popular due to its affordable cost and ease of installation.

The lining of the stove in the bathhouse can be made with the following types of tiles:

  • Clinker tiles. It is made from clay with the addition of energy melters, dye and fireclay.
  • Majolica tiles. It is a pressed material coated with a special composition (glaze). This type of tile has a bright and rich color. Patterns and ornaments are also often applied to the tiles.
  • Terracotta tiles. Its composition is similar to Majolica. However, this type of tile does not have a special glaze coating. Is different high level strength. This type of tile is more porous in its composition than others. The shape of the tile is round. Which creates a cozy atmosphere in the room.
  • Marble tiles. It is characterized by durability and strength. The appearance is quite noble. Creates the effect of comfort in the room. This type of tile has no disadvantages.

The most economical and easiest to implement option for finishing a sauna stove. A brick-lined stove has the following advantages:

  • heating speed;
  • retaining heat for a long time;
  • the oven does not collapse under the influence of moisture.

Also, using brick as a facing material, you can significantly save money.

The main advantage of lining a sauna stove with stone (natural or artificial) is its noble and aesthetic appearance. A bathhouse, the stove of which is lined with stone, can rightfully be considered a top-class building.

The following types of natural and artificial stones can be used as facing materials:

Using a steel case

This type of cladding is an installation metal frame onto the surface of the furnace and covering it with steel shields.

The steel case retains heat well and provides an optimal heating level. However, this type of cladding is unsafe for human health. When the oven operates, the steel case also heats up, touching which can result in burns.

Plastering the walls of a sauna stove

The original Russian version of cladding is plastering the walls of a sauna stove. The simplest and most inexpensive way.

Plastering the stove takes place in two stages:

  1. Plastering walls to remove dirt and dust.
  2. Repeated plastering to level the walls and remove dents and chips.

After the stove plastering process is completed, it can be whitewashed with lime.

Use of tiles

The use of tiles is an ancient method of lining stoves. This type of finishing gives the stove an original and unusual appearance. The sauna stove becomes not part of the room, but a separate element of the interior with its own individuality.

Note! This cladding method is quite complicated. Only a specialist can do it, however, such cladding is reliable and durable.

A sauna stove lined with tiles, in addition to its unusual appearance, has a higher level of heat transfer compared to stoves lined with other materials.

There are many options for lining sauna stoves. Work with each of the presented materials must be carried out with special care. Materials should be selected of high quality and durable. In this case, the sauna stove will delight its owners for decades.

Finishing a stove in a bathhouse - how and with what material to finish a stove in a bathhouse


After reading the article, you will learn about finishing the stove in the bathhouse. The choice of material for lining the stove depends not only on the preferences of the bathhouse owner, but also on some other factors.