It would seem that what is important is at what temperature to glue the wallpaper, because it is enough to use high-quality finishing materials to get the desired result. But this is far from true. Exactly temperature regime indoors is the main condition for successful wallpapering.
Rules for successful pasting
In order for the wallpaper to serve you for a long time and lay flat on the walls, you must follow a number of rules regarding the microclimate in the room:
- The first is permissible temperature. It should not be lower than +10 °C and higher than +25 °C. It is this temperature range that promotes uniform drying of the wallpaper adhesive base. In addition, this temperature in the house must be maintained not only during the work, but also after it for 10 days.
- The second is air humidity. This figure in an apartment should not exceed 60%. Otherwise, the glue will begin to react with moisture, and its adhesive properties will noticeably decrease, which may cause bubbles to appear and the fabric to peel off.
- Third - the absence of drafts. Even a small draft can have an extremely negative impact on the entire progress of work. The fact is that because of it, the temperature and humidity of the air in the room will constantly change, and this will have a detrimental effect on the adhesive composition and its drying, which can subsequently cause the canvas to peel off.
- Fourth - protection from direct sunlight. If the glued layer of wallpaper is exposed to direct rays of the sun, this will lead to quick drying glue in selected places. As a result, the canvas may wrinkle or sag.
It is quite simple to comply with all these rules in a residential building. You just need to measure the indicators with the usual instruments (thermometer), close all the windows, cover the windows with a cloth and calmly stick on new wallpaper according to the instructions. In this case, the result will please you with quality workmanship for many years.
How to glue wallpaper in the cold season?
Many experts recommend carrying out finishing work in summer or spring. After all, pasting wallpaper in the warm season is very simple task. Even if the premises are non-residential and not connected to centralized heating, it always stores desired temperature, and the wallpaper dries without problems. And here a completely reasonable question arises: is it possible to glue wallpaper in winter, or is it better to wait until it gets warmer? Of course, wallpapering can be done at any time of the year, provided that all the rules of this technology are followed. But even here some difficulties may arise due to the specific room in which the work will be carried out.
The most difficult thing is pasting wallpaper in unheated room. In the cold season, the temperature in them drops so much that work is unacceptable, and then it becomes necessary to heat the room using heating devices. But this is not the most difficult task; the most difficult thing will be to maintain the required temperature so that the wallpaper glue can dry evenly. This will require uninterrupted operation of the heaters and constant monitoring of the indoor microclimate.
In residential buildings, it will be much easier to hang wallpaper in the fall or winter, because they are equipped heating system and constantly maintain a certain temperature. Difficulties may arise here with air humidity, but even here you can always find a solution to the problem. 
First you need to check the humidity of the walls. This can be done using a regular piece of foam or polyethylene. It is enough to stick it overnight to the surface to be glued with tape, and in the morning, if there is condensation with inside we can conclude that the walls are damp. If there is no moisture, then you can safely proceed to wallpapering, but if it does appear, then you need to dry the air. This can be done using a special electrical device - a dehumidifier - which can, in a given mode, reduce the air humidity to the desired value. Or you can use conventional heaters, but here you won’t be able to set the desired humidity level, so you will have to constantly measure it empirically.
Coziness and comfort in the home can be achieved at any time of the year. Both in winter and in summer, wallpapering will not cause much difficulty if you follow the recommendations of professionals regarding the microclimate of the room and the temperature at which wallpaper can be hung. This determines how long they will serve you, and whether your efforts will be wasted.
Not all dacha owners can afford exclusive renovations. Many get off easy cosmetic repairs with your own hands. One of the most important stages in renovation is wallpapering the walls. To ensure a long service life of the wallpaper and appearance was appropriate when sticking them you need to follow some rules and follow the instructions. Before gluing, you need to prepare the walls and floor. To prevent adhesive from getting on it, the floor should be covered with newspapers and oilcloth. Old wallpaper must be removed by wetting it with water.
Under its influence they are easily removed. If water does not help, you can use heat treatment. To do this, you need to take a damp cloth, apply it to the wall and iron it with an iron. After the old wallpaper has been removed, you need to start leveling and plastering the walls. When you have already started sticking, you will first need to choose an adhesive that will suit your walls. Then measure the height of the walls and adding another 5-6 cm to the size of the wallpaper based on the size of the walls, start cutting them and applying glue. Then you need to wait for ten fifteen minutes until the wallpaper is saturated with glue. During this time, you need to apply glue to the walls.
You need to smear it slowly with a thin brush so that the layer is thin. After applying glue to the walls and impregnating the wallpaper, you need to start gluing them. In this case, you need to pre-install the stepladder to the height of the wall. Then, using a piece of cloth, you need to smooth the pasted surface so that it becomes smooth without wrinkles or folds. So, having become familiar with the technique of wallpapering, and having decided to do so, you will have to choose which type of wallpaper is best suited to your dacha. You can contact specialists or read some literature. The wallpaper in the apartment should be expensive and elegant, but for the dacha you can choose cheap ones that do not fade and are not susceptible to moisture. The cheapest option may be paper wallpaper. They are cheap, but difficult to glue.
The surface on which they are glued must be perfectly flat, and several hands are needed to impregnate them with glue. They are used in newly built houses. However, the best country wallpaper is vinyl. They are easy to wash and clean, which is important at the dacha, since you often have to work with the soil there. They can be painted and are not afraid of direct sunlight. Vinyl can withstand winter frosts, but if your roof leaks, you will have to glue them down.
The disadvantage of vinyl wallpaper is that they are not environmentally friendly and contain harmful chemical substances. If this is a primary problem for you, then use cork wallpaper. Cork wallpaper is 100% environmentally friendly. They are made on a paper base and covered with a thin layer of cork.
Such wallpaper does not attract dust and provides heat and sound insulation. They can also be washed and stubborn stains of dirt can be removed with sandpaper. And also liquid wallpaper, which is a substitute for plaster. Its composition is diluted in the same way as plaster in a basin and gradually the flakes turn into a homogeneous mass. This mass is applied to the walls like plaster and given a pattern with a spatula. Liquid wallpaper has a hygroscopic effect and therefore must be lubricated with varnish. Usually, when wallpapering, the question arises: which glue to choose?
It must be taken into account that for different types Wallpaper is suitable for one or another type of glue. There is also a universal glue that is suitable for any type of wallpaper. The finished glue can be stored for seven days in a closed container. After this period, the glue will become too dry and the wallpaper will not stick to it. We think every summer resident will be interested in this website babyportal.ru with lunar calendar gardener and gardener. Here you can find out everything about sowing in May, April or March.
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What types of wallpaper are best for country house, and what you should pay attention to when choosing them.
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Criterias of choice
All-season endurance. Unlike country cottage, a country house is a small building in which people live only during the warm season. Therefore, when asked how to choose wallpaper for your dacha, experts answer simply: look for coatings that are least susceptible to fading, moisture, and are also easy to clean and restore.
Studying materials
What types of wallpaper are there, and how suitable are they for use in the country? We list only those varieties that make sense to use in an unheated house.
- Paper wallpaper. They are attractive because they are cheap, but gluing them is quite difficult: the surface must be well leveled, and the technology of impregnating cut strips with glue requires two pairs of hands and a certain skill. If the house has just been built (there are no problems with cavities on the plaster), and you are not afraid of the difficulties when gluing, this is an ideal country covering. They are faded, dirty, peeling at the seams due to dampness - we mercilessly tear off the stripes and re-glue the room before the new season. If you want to save effort and time, choose duplex wallpaper over simplex (single-layer paper). They do not fade longer and are more moisture resistant than single-layer ones.
Examples of interesting collections of paper-based wallpapers.
- Vinyl wallpapers. Ideal country houses: vinyl for painting. They are easy to wash and clean, which is quite important at the dacha, when household members or a pet, unwittingly, due to the proximity of the garden, can stain the wallpaper with earth or grass. Such wallpaper can be painted many times. Wallpapers with vinyl covering are not afraid of direct sunlight.
After the winter “downtime” of the dacha, as a rule, nothing bad happens. Unless the roof leaks, then the canvas may partially or completely come off, and it will have to be either glued or replaced. To decorate the walls in your dacha, you can choose inexpensive foam vinyl or luxury silk-screen printing - it all depends on your financial capabilities.
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Wallpaper on a non-woven base with vinyl coating is resistant to fading, stains and scratches, and can be washed.
- Cork wallpaper. Unlike vinyl, which is often “suspected” of environmental problems, cork is a 100% pure material. In essence, this is a type of paper-based wallpaper: a thin layer of natural cork is applied to it. An important advantage of the material: cork does not attract dust and provides heat and sound insulation. Cork wallpaper can be washed and stubborn stains can be removed with fine sandpaper.
- Liquid wallpaper. In essence, it is an analogue or replacement for plaster: the composition is diluted in a basin, the flakes quickly take on a uniform consistency. This composition is applied to the wall, the design is applied with a spatula. It is important to remember one thing: liquid wallpaper is very hygroscopic, it must be covered with a layer of varnish.
When thinking about what wallpapers are on the market and which ones to choose for your home, don’t forget about the obvious things and use little tricks that will help correct some of the room’s shortcomings.
Buy expensive things. Country house not so big - you can “splurge” on a couple of rolls of expensive wallpaper. The more expensive the coatings, the more durable they will be. Choose several rolls of very good wallpaper, and you can save money, for example, by shopping on sales days in large stores.
Combine. Country premises are most often small. It is not necessary to completely cover all the walls with wallpaper: you can afford a combination with plaster, wood, and brick.
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Let you stick just a couple of rolls of expensive wallpaper on the wall. But they will become the decor of a country house, and not the filling of an empty wall.
Don't skimp on glue. It doesn’t matter whether you buy cheap or expensive wallpaper, you must choose the right adhesive. Moreover, it is better to buy wallpaper and glue at the same time.
Buy neutral ones. White, salt and pepper, small drawings, abstract patterns pastel colors - perfect option. This wallpaper is not afraid of fading in the sun. Besides bright hues visually expand the space.
Adjust the space. How to choose wallpaper for a low room? - The advice is simple: buy striped ones. The vertical strip raises the ceilings. Moreover, than larger area rooms, the wider the strip you can afford: a large strip in a room is 8 square meters. m inappropriate!
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Wallpapering
Wallpapering walls is one of the most common and available ways interior decoration. But when it comes to country house, the question arises as to how expedient this is. After all, most of these houses are not heated and during the winter the premises become very cold.
Opinions differ on this matter. Some dacha owners had bitter experience when wallpapering lasted only one season. And over the winter they became damp and peeled off. Others, also based on their own experience, claim that nothing like this happens with wallpaper and they successfully serve for several years.
The reason for these disagreements, apparently, lies not in the wallpaper, but in the arrangement of the country house itself. If it is made good waterproofing, the walls are insulated, the roof does not leak, then nothing threatens the durability of the wallpaper. After all, they deteriorate not from low temperatures, but from excess moisture. Therefore, if you are confident in the reliability of your country house, feel free to start choosing wallpaper. Moreover, there is plenty to choose from - the range of a wide variety of wallpapers is very large.
Wallpaper selection
Modern wallpapers differ in many different ways - pattern, density, texture, durability, materials, prices. Let's try to navigate this diversity in order to make a thoughtful and successful purchase.
Based on the pattern, wallpaper can be divided into plain and colored; with large, medium or small patterns; with vertical or horizontal patterns; with repeating ornamental elements or with one composite picture (photo wallpaper). There is a separate pattern that requires adjustment of the stripes to match it and does not require it. This is especially important to consider when calculating the required number of rolls.
In terms of density, wallpaper can be light, dense, medium density or heavy. These parameters are important to consider when choosing wallpaper glue.
Based on the surface texture, wallpapers are divided into smooth and rough, glossy and matte, with a raised convex pattern and with a relief embossed pattern, as well as multilayer, ribbed, with a silk surface.
Based on resistance to moisture, we can distinguish non-waterproof (paper), medium water-resistant, washable and highly water-resistant (vinyl).
All types of wallpaper have different wear resistance and differ in some other characteristics.
Paper wallpaper. This is the most common and economical look. They can be single-layer (simplex) or double-layer (duplex). The latter are stronger and more durable. Average term The service life of paper wallpaper under normal operating conditions is about 5 years. Low cost and ease of use are the advantages of such wallpaper. The disadvantages include their demandingness on the surface. It must be very even and smooth, otherwise all its defects will affect the quality of the gluing and will appear even more pronounced. In addition, paper wallpaper has the lowest moisture resistance. Therefore, in rooms with high humidity they won't last long. According to their own decorative qualities paper wallpapers are very diverse - a huge selection of patterns and textures will allow you to decorate the interior to suit every taste. Some types of paper wallpaper (embossed or coarse fiber) can be used for painting.
Non-woven wallpaper. They are made from non-woven fabric based on textile and cellulose fibers. This type of wallpaper is strong, durable and large decorative possibilities. This type of wallpaper is easy to apply - the glue is applied only to the wall. They can be used as paintable wallpaper for acrylic, latex and water-based paint. They can withstand up to 5–6 repaintings without damage and act as an additional sound and heat insulator. However, they also have a number of disadvantages - they easily absorb dust and odors (it is not recommended to glue them in a room where people smoke), and are poorly resistant to moisture and mechanical damage.
Vinyl wallpapers. They are made on a paper base with vinyl paste applied to it. The texture of the wallpaper depends on the type of vinyl layer: flat, foam, dense, silk-screen. This type of wallpaper has all possible advantages. They are durable, resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation, and are not afraid of mechanical stress and temperature changes. They can be cleaned and washed with water and detergents. Ideal for painting with any type of paint, they can withstand repeated repainting. The texture can be very diverse - imitate wood, stone, leather, silk, textured plaster etc. But it should be noted that this type of wallpaper is the most expensive.
Cork wallpaper.. Their characteristics are close to vinyl. Also have paper base, onto which a thin layer of natural cork is applied. They are resistant to washing and cleaning, have dust-repellent properties, and are a sound and heat insulator. An additional advantage of such wallpaper is that it is 100% natural and environmentally friendly.
Textile wallpaper. They may have a paper, acrylic or non-woven base, onto which a woven or non-woven material made of cotton, linen, silk, viscose, nylon or velor. Textile wallpaper is an expensive luxury coating. However, they are inferior in their characteristics to most other types of wallpaper. The fabric absorbs odors, is not resistant to moisture and dust, and can fade when exposed to direct sunlight. In short, this is a very beautiful and stylish type of wallpaper, but comparable in practicality to paper wallpaper.
Wallpapering
So, the surface of the walls is prepared, the wallpaper is selected, you can start gluing. There are also some preparatory steps here. Firstly, if used thin wallpaper, then it is advisable to first perform a backing - preliminary pasting of the walls with some kind of paper material. Previously, old newspapers were successfully used as a substrate. This is a completely acceptable option. But in last years Rolled waste paper made of thick paper specially designed for these purposes has appeared on sale. It is quite inexpensive, and it is much more convenient to work with it. The backing strips are glued in a horizontal direction so that later there will be no overlap between the joints of the backing and the wallpaper, which will cause the joints to stand out. After gluing the paper, you need to let it dry for 24 hours and only then stick the wallpaper.
Modern wallpaper is often glued end-to-end. But if you prefer the overlap option, then don’t forget one thing important rule: overlap seams should face the direction opposite to the light source (window). Otherwise, they will stand out and spoil the appearance of the wall.
Next preparatory stage consists of marking the walls. First, mark the upper limit of the gluing. From the junction of the ceiling and the wall, measure the required distance of indentation and mark it on two opposite sides of the wall. You can make marks along the entire wall and then connect them into a line, but it’s easier to use the old proven method. You need to take a long string, shallow it, then tighten it at a measured height on both sides of the wall, pull it slightly and release it. The twine will hit the wall and leave a smooth chalk mark on it, which will be the upper boundary of the pasting.
Next, mark a vertical line from which to begin gluing the wallpaper. Usually they start from one of the corners, stepping back 15–20 cm from it, so that the corner itself is not the joint, but the middle part of the canvas. The verticality of the line is verified with a plumb line, along which marks are made with a pencil, and then connected. Then the width of the stripes is measured along the upper border. For a standard roll of wallpaper, it is 53 cm. Vertical marking lines are also drawn from each mark using a plumb line. If the walls are uneven, below the distance between adjacent vertical lines may differ from the bandwidth. When gluing wallpaper, vertical markings will help you figure out which direction the skew is going and align the stripes using overlaps. Without markings, by gluing the wallpaper exactly end-to-end, you can move it away from the vertical.
The next stage is cutting the wallpaper. If you don’t need to adjust the stripes according to the design, then everything is done simply – just cut the strips to the required length and put them in a stack with the wrong side up. If the pattern is complex and it is necessary that it coincides on adjacent strips, then cutting is done simultaneously from two rolls. A strip is cut from the first one. The second one is unfolded side by side, adjusted according to the pattern and also cut off. Unfortunately, the option with a complex pattern will leave a lot of waste. But they are useful for gluing narrow areas above doorways, above and below the windows.
The next step is to spread the wallpaper with glue (this does not apply to non-woven wallpaper, the glue for which is applied to the wall). You can use a roller or brush for this procedure. The principle when spreading glue is the same - it is better to have too much glue than to leave uncoated areas. Wallpaper adhesives are mostly transparent, so you need to try not to leave dry spots, especially at the edges of the strips. (Note that in Lately For convenience, manufacturers began to add coloring agents to the glue, which become discolored when dry. If you come across such glue that is suitable for your type of wallpaper, then buy it, it really helps to facilitate the process of applying the glue.)
The strip coated with glue is folded like an accordion (Fig. 26). To do this, take the strip by one edge and bend it to the middle, do the same with the second edge, and then along midline folded in half into reverse side. Do the same with all other stripes.
Figure 26. Folding wallpaper like an accordion
Then they begin directly gluing the wallpaper. Take the first strip and determine its top based on the drawing. Then they stand on a stepladder, table or stool, take the strip from above on both sides (just not very close to the edge - wet wallpaper can easily tear under its own weight), and release the bottom edge of the “accordion” so that the strip unfolds. Upper part The strips are pressed tightly against the wall, aligned along horizontal and vertical marks. Then they come down from the stand and align the bottom of the strip with a vertical mark and also press it tightly against the wall. After this, the wallpaper is carefully smoothed to the wall using a special rubber roller so that it sticks well and does not bubble. You need to smooth it in the direction from the center of the strip to the edges in order to push out air bubbles (if any). The same way stick on all the other stripes and leave the wallpaper to dry. It is very important that there are no drafts in the room when drying, otherwise the wind may blow under the edges of the wallpaper and they will move away from the wall. Therefore, in a taped-off room, all windows, doors and vents are tightly closed.
This text is an introductory fragment.Wallpapering walls is the final stage of finishing any room. And this is where it’s easy to make mistakes that will spoil the impression of the whole work. Therefore, we advise you not to rush and first study the theory well. In our material we tell you what to pay attention to.
Preparing the walls
Walls for wallpaper should be smooth and well puttied. Assessing surface quality is easy. To do this you will need a small light source ( desk lamp or a bright flashlight) and a rule about 2.5 meters long. Place it against the wall. If you look at the rule from above, then the lamp should shine from below. If on the right, then the light comes from the left: you will clearly see the cracks between the rule and the wall. Ideally, you won’t see it. A gap of a millimeter with a rule length of 2.5 meters can be considered acceptable. But this is already a “B” job.
Now let's examine the surface of the wall in the side light of the lamp. Does it resemble lunar craters? This means that it will not be possible to glue the wallpaper well.
In theory, the putty surface should look like an egg shell. It’s not for nothing that plasterers talk about good work “as good as an egg.” It is considered acceptable if the reinforcing mesh is barely visible through the putty.
How to deal with wall defects?
1) Clean it using a board with sandpaper. Plastered walls can be cleaned safely. You can even use tape grinding machine. If putty is applied to drywall, care must be taken not to damage it.
Stripping is a very dusty procedure, so you need to work in a respirator, goggles and with open windows.
2) Remove unevenness with another layer of putty. It's easier to apply than stripping the wall because there won't be any nasty dust. However, before applying putty, it is worth cleaning out at least the roughest defects.
Which putty should I use? To correct individual areas - the same one that was already used in the room.
Now very common gypsum putty, which is prepared from a dry mixture. And many painters learned to work well with it. But for self-application, white cement-based putty is more suitable. It does not set as quickly and allows you to work more slowly. There is one more advantage. White cement gives a glossier surface than gypsum. This means that on gypsum base wallpaper will look a little dull, but cement wallpaper will look bright.
Fine latex putty is sometimes used over gypsum or cement putty. Nice welcome, if the walls are supposed to be painted. And for finishing with wallpaper - it’s already redundant.
When preparing walls, special attention should be paid to the corners. Uneven corners They won’t let you put up the wallpaper evenly!
After puttying, the walls are treated acrylic primer to reduce the absorbency of the substrate. This is especially important for plasterboard walls with gypsum putty.
3) If there is no time or desire to deal with wall defects, then it is better to choose roll wallpaper instead liquid. This finish is similar in characteristics to “paper”, but looks unusual and hides minor irregularities well.
Choosing wallpaper
All roll wallpapers can be divided into two large groups:
– wallpaper with a pattern (can be paper or synthetic).
– wallpaper for painting (usually made from synthetics).
Wallpaper for painting very relevant for owners of private houses and summer cottages. They are good for finishing halls with stairs, utility rooms, ceilings in rooms with “second light”... In a word, where there are large and hard-to-reach surfaces. It is difficult to make them perfectly even even using the techniques described above. Paintable wallpaper (if it is thick enough) will hide some defects. In addition, “make-up” of the walls in the future will not bring much trouble: good wallpaper can be repainted 2-3 times.
To hide defects on uneven walls It is better to use foam vinyl wallpaper.
Vinyl or non-woven wallpaper with an embossed pattern are designed to create unique decorative effects. They are suitable for homeowners with a “creative” streak. For those who will spare no effort for a design experiment.
Wallpaper with a pattern can be not only synthetic, but also paper. Synthetic ones are stronger, more durable and look brighter than paper ones. But the manufacturers of the latter emphasize the environmental friendliness of their products and offer to glue them into bedrooms and children's rooms.
So, thick non-woven wallpaper for painting is well suited for the hallway and hall. They can be washed and repainted. To increase the durability of the coating, a protective varnish is sometimes used.
For the kitchen, it is better to buy thick and durable vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven basis with a neutral pattern. Dirt and even soot are easily removed from them. If the kitchen is large, then you can make an insert from wallpaper with a bright pattern. They help to visually expand the space and zone the room.
Any synthetic wallpaper is suitable for the living room. If the room is spacious, then for self-pasting it is better to choose thick wallpaper with vertical embossing. On them, the seams between the stripes are not so noticeable. It is better to entrust the pasting of smooth satin wallpaper to professional painters.
There are two opposing approaches to decorating a children's room:
– use “vandal-proof” washable vinyl wallpaper.
– glue paper ones and allow the child to draw on them.
By the way, “liquid” wallpaper is great for the bedroom. They muffle sounds a little and create a peaceful mood.
Important: all roll wallpaper for one room must be from the same batch. Read the factory markings carefully. Wallpaper from different batches may differ noticeably in shade.
Pay attention to the width of the wallpaper. Standard options– 53 or 106 cm. Gluing narrow ones will take more time, but there will be less scraps left.
Wide wallpaper is faster to glue, but it’s quite difficult to do it alone without skill. But the most important thing is that when using wide wallpaper, there are fewer seams. Therefore, if the wallpaper has a pronounced vertical embossing, then it is better for a beginner to deal with a narrow canvas. If the wallpaper is smooth or requires matching patterns, then it is more logical to prefer a wide canvas.
Choosing glue and tools
Everything is simple with glue. Each type of wallpaper (paper, vinyl, non-woven) has its own type of glue. We recommend using color-coded adhesive. It contains a dye that becomes discolored after the wallpaper dries under the influence of sunlight. This glue is easy to spread on a light surface without gaps.
Often it is written on the glue packaging that it needs to be diluted " cold water", but her temperature is not specified. Keep in mind: what is called “cold water” in Russia is not suitable for diluting glue; it will float in pieces in it. There must be water room temperature or a little warmer. Too much hot water, more than 50 degrees, threatens to destroy the structure of the glue, and not just dissolve it.
For further work you will need:
– a level, preferably a laser one, but a bubble one will do,
– thin pencil, better mechanical,
- a stationery knife with a sharp blade,
- scissors,
– roulette,
– rule,
– a clean, wide brush with stiff bristles,
– rollers for applying glue (can be replaced with a brush) and for rolling wallpaper.
What to cut wallpaper on? Professional painters have special wallpaper tables for this. For amateurs, we recommend purchasing several sheets of fiberboard and using them as a lining. This way you can cut the wallpaper with a knife without risking damage to the floor covering. If necessary, you can also apply glue to the wallpaper on the fiberboard. This material quickly absorbs remaining glue, and the floor in the room remains clean.
Marking the room
Before wallpapering a room, you need to remove the baseboards and baguettes if they are already installed at the junction of the wall and ceiling.
Now at the bottom of the wall you can mark the location of the panels. This procedure minimizes the amount of trimming and labor required to glue the flaps. For preliminary marking, it is convenient to use 3d Builder from the Windows 10 utility package or free program Google SketchUp.
We mark the first strip in the window area. Then we move from window to door. Then we return to the window again and again move along the perimeter of the room from window to door, but along the opposite wall.
If you glue this way, the seams will be least visible in daylight. Another rule: the wallpaper should be wrapped at a corner in a strip, the width of which will be 5 - 10 cm. We will return to this point.
For vertical marking of a room, it is best to use laser level. Then you won't have to draw anything with a pencil. If there is no such tool, then you need to draw a thin line on the wall. vertical stripe. It should be located approximately 5 mm from the intended edge of the first strip of wallpaper. Do not glue the edge of the wallpaper directly along the marking strip. This will stain the wallpaper with stylus particles.
It is better to mark the vertical level with a pencil after priming the walls with wallpaper glue.
Priming walls with glue
As we have already said, putty walls need to be impregnated with acrylic primer. But this is not enough. Before gluing wallpaper, evaluate the absorbency of the base. To do this, apply wallpaper glue small area walls in the corner. Most likely, the glue will instantly absorb into the wall. In this case, the working surface must be primed again. Use a brush to do this and rub the glue into the wall.
If the base absorbs poorly, a primer will still not hurt. Why is it needed?
– the wallpaper will stick evenly over the entire area.
– the wallpaper will be easier to separate from the wall during the next renovation.
Let's start the cage
Of course, I want to finish this work and quickly settle into a fresh room. But there's no need to rush! Glue two test strips first. Even professional painters do this when dealing with an unfamiliar brand of material.
Test strips will help you evaluate how the wallpaper, adhesive and substrate interact. The fact is that the wallpaper first absorbs the glue and swells, then it dries and shrinks a little. As a result, the seams on dried wallpaper may come apart. How to avoid this? Use minimally required amount glue.
General recommendations from manufacturers are:
– non-woven and paper wallpapers should be coated with glue and left for 3-5 minutes. Then they are attached to the wall treated with glue.
– vinyl wallpaper is not coated with glue; it is applied only to the wall. A section of wallpaper bent in half is pressed to the top of the wall and straightened. Then the cut is unbent and the lower part is straightened along the wall.
But these recommendations are suitable for laboratory conditions. In life you have to act depending on many circumstances. For example, you have a spacious hall in country house. There are often drafts and the temperature in winter drops to, say, +5 degrees. For such harsh conditions, it is logical to choose thick non-woven wallpaper with vertical embossing for painting. This will require a lot of glue. You need to prime the wall properly, then apply glue to both the wall and the wallpaper.
But here's another situation. Small bedroom in a house for permanent residence with ideal smooth walls and thin vinyl wallpaper. A minimum of glue is enough to apply it only to the walls.
So, we do test strips and see if there are any problems every other day. What problems might there be?
Option A. There wasn't enough glue and the wallpaper came off.
Option B. There was too much glue, the wallpaper became deformed and the seams came apart.
Wallpaper that has come off can usually be re-glued.
What to do with the corners?
Even corners do not cause any problems. Uneven corners disrupt the verticality of wallpaper seams. Wallpaper can also be collected in the corner like an accordion.
If this happens, we make several horizontal cuts in the corner and straighten the canvas over the surface of the wall. Now there may be overlaps. Carefully cut them off with a sharp blade.
The next strip must be glued vertically, and the edge of the canvas at the corner may deviate from the vertical. Then we glue the canvases into an overlap, and then get rid of it. To do this, draw a sharp blade in the middle of the overlap. After this, remove the two cut strips and adjust the edges of the wallpaper end to end.
How to make invisible seams?
This requires practice. General Tips such:
– saturate the wallpaper with glue as little as possible so that it does not stretch.
– when pressing the wallpaper to the wall, do not make horizontal movements.
– it is best to use special rubber rollers for leveling. First, use a wide roller to make vertical movements, gradually moving it from the middle of the panel to the edges. Then we seal the edges with a special narrow roller. It can be replaced with a rubber spatula, but it should move predominantly vertically.
Good luck with your work!