I lay the tiles myself. Grout for tiles: which is better. Laying tiles on the wall: the choice of the purpose of the premises

28-06-2015

Ceramic tiles are one of the most popular bathroom and kitchen finishing materials. The tile is resistant to moisture, dirt, it is not difficult to care for it, moreover, now the tile is represented by a diverse range of colors and shapes. Finishing the kitchen has its own characteristics. There is a constant fluctuation in temperature, high humidity and about hygiene standards should not be forgotten. That is why the tile is the best suited for the kitchen.

However, the job of laying tiles is expensive for the budget. Therefore, many are interested in the question of how to learn how to lay tiles in order to do the work with their own hands.

Keep in mind that no matter how expensive the material is, improperly laid tiles will spoil the whole look of the kitchen. When buying a tile, consider the following point: if you are planning to install a bright, unusual set, it is better to make a choice in favor of a tile of a calm, plain color.

If, on the contrary, kitchen set unpretentious, tiles can be safely emphasized unusual design premises.

How to lay tiles: instructions

If you have the desire, patience and accuracy, then laying tiles in the kitchen will not be difficult for you, especially if you have ever watched the process of laying tiles.

There are several options for laying tiles on the walls: “seam to seam”, “diagonally” and “running apart”, etc.

The seam-to-seam option is the most popular and easiest. Tiles are stacked one above the other. With this laying, there is little waste, square and rectangular tiles look good.

Laying tiles "in a run" or "in dressing" resembles brickwork, each row is shifted in relation to the other by half. When finishing the floor in this way, the masonry is performed in a horizontal direction. Masonry "diagonally" allows you to create a pattern, but it involves a lot of waste material. Masonry options are also often used: modular, lines, staggered.

Materials and tools:

the required number of tiles;
tile adhesive;
plastic crosses for seams;
grouting material;
primer;
capacity;
rags;
putty knife;
pencil;
roulette, level;
Bulgarian;
dowel;
rule;
rubber mallet.

Preparatory work

To properly lay the tiles on the wall, its surface must be prepared.

Apply a deep penetration primer to a dry plastered surface. This is necessary for better adhesion of the adhesive to the tile.

Try to lay cut tiles in inconspicuous places or hidden by furniture.

If you plan to place sockets and switches in the center of the tile or in the middle of the seam, pre-lay out the tiles and purchase material with a margin.

How to lay tiles on the walls

As a rule, tiles are not laid for kitchen furniture, which significantly reduces costs. If you plan to finish only the work surface, draw a horizontal line in the place where it ends kitchen table. On it fix a narrow profile for drywall (with a reserve of 2-3 cm). The bottom row of tiles will rest on the profile. Fix the profile to the surface with dowels. Check the correct fastening with a level.

Plastic crosses will help you form the same seams between the tiles. The thickness of the crosses depends on how thick you want to make the seams. The dimensions of the spatulas depend on the size of the tiles.

Pay attention to the reverse side of the tile, there is an arrow indicating where the bottom of the tile is. It is advisable to first immediately lay the entire stack of tiles right side so that you don't get distracted while working.

The next step is to prepare the glue. In order for the glue to get the required consistency, be sure to follow all the instructions given by the manufacturer on the package. It is advisable to mix the glue with a drill with a mixing nozzle. After that, wait 5-10 minutes, then mix again. This technique will make the glue plastic. The next step is to lay the tiles directly. Pick up glue with a spatula and apply it to the tile. Keep the spatula immersed in water at all times so the glue won't stick to it. Remove adhesive residue from the tiles with a notched trowel.

Press the tile to the surface. Check the correct installation with a level. If the surface is well plastered and the profile is properly fixed, the tile will stand up properly on its own. The next tile is laid side by side, do not forget to install crosses between them. Check the plane using the rule. Avoid gaps.

If there is a need to cut tiles, do the work carefully: you can easily get hurt on a sharp corner. It is advisable to use a tile cutter for cutting. In its absence, you need to make an incision with a simple glass cutter, then break off the tile by placing it on the edge of the table. If you need to make cuts to fit the shape of a socket or switch, you will need a grinder.

Please note that it is only possible to shift or adjust the placement of tiles for 15 minutes after laying. After this time, you will have to remove the tile, process it and the surface and put it again.

For neat finishing of corners use plastic corners, they start the ends of the tile. The corner must be 2 mm thicker than the tile, otherwise the edges of the tile will not go into the corner.

After all the work, leave the glue to dry for the whole day. Then remove the profile that served as a support for the bottom row. Down the tile will no longer move.

After removing the plastic crosses, proceed to the grout. Choose a grout that matches the shade of your tile. The composition will need to be diluted until a uniform consistency is formed. Using a rubber spatula, carefully apply the composition between the tiles. When finished, wipe the ceramic with a slightly damp sponge.

Learning how to lay tiles on walls is easy. But in this work, you need to apply maximum patience and accuracy, as well as strictly follow the instructions for the use of materials. If you put quality tiles on the walls of the kitchen, it will create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the room.

Repair in the bathroom is rarely complete without replacing the tiles, especially if it has already served for 10-20 years. But, as usual, the question arises: hire a master or do everything yourself. If you have a proven, tried and tested tiler in mind and a certain amount (usually they ask for the same amount of work as the materials cost), you can hire. Otherwise, try laying the tiles yourself. If the walls are at least relatively even, everything should do without much difficulty. But just before laying the tiles on the wall, carefully study the technology.

It starts, as usual, with the choice of tiles. Just pay attention not only to her external data. You will definitely need to check its geometry, otherwise it will be difficult to work with it. If you are laying tiles for the first time, any curvature will greatly complicate the task. So let's check:

From experience it is worth saying that the ideal parameters are extremely difficult to find. If you like it outwardly, there are no cobwebs of cracks or glaze defects on the surface, the edges are even, the dimensions are the same, you can take it despite some non-linearity (first point). Otherwise, you will be tired of running around the shops. What you should not do is to take a tile “to order”. How can you control its quality if you already pay for it. Take only what you hold in your hands.

What is the tile on?

Previously, tiles were laid on cement-sand mixture, to which PVA glue or Bustilat was added. You can, of course, do this, but it will be more difficult to work. For more comfortable work use ready-made formulations they are also called "tile glue" for the fact that the composition contains adhesive components, therefore it is sometimes said that the tiles are "glued" to the walls. Compositions are of two types:

in buckets - mastics, ready for use;
in bags - dry mixes that require dilution with water.

Professionals mainly use dry mixes. If necessary, they can correct an imperfect wall by making the layer a little thicker or thinner. Another plus: they retain plasticity longer, which allows you to make adjustments some more time later. Mastic work on perfect wall and there can be no deviations: the layer is too thin.

When choosing a tile adhesive, you can choose it for specific tasks. So there are compositions in which there are additives that increase the water-repellent properties of a wall or floor. This is important in the kitchen and bathroom. There are frost-resistant, it will come in handy if you put it in unheated room or on the street. You can find glue that has bactericidal properties: it will not allow fungi and mold to develop, which is in demand in wet rooms.

Preparatory work

Before laying the tiles on the wall, carry out whole line preparatory activities. This is a long and unpleasant process, but it is highly undesirable to skip it: not every master, not to mention beginners, can normally lay tiles on uneven unprepared walls.

Leveling the surface

First of all, the old coating is removed from the walls and what can fall off. If there is greasy spots, they are removed, or simply cut down part of the plaster along with the absorbed oil. The walls are tapped with a wooden mallet, determining by the sound whether there are voids. They occur if the plaster has peeled off, but has not yet blown out. If you stick a tile on such an area, everything will collapse under its weight. Therefore, you cover all such places yourself.

A flat bar is applied to the cleaned base and it is estimated how smooth or curved the walls are. If the surface of the wall is strongly convex or curved, it is better to correct everything with plaster to the level. Then laying tiles on the wall will be very simple. If the walls are relatively even, only too large indents are leveled: irregularities (protrusions or pits) that are more than 5 mm. The ledges need to be hewn, the pits to be filled plaster mixture, expand the cracks, moisten and also cover with plaster.

We prime

It is desirable to treat the prepared wall with a primer. Best suited for these purposes is "Betonokontakt" or another composition with similar characteristics. It penetrates a sufficiently large thickness deep into the wall, binding all the particles. After drying, the surface becomes rough, tile adhesive is very well "molded" to it.

How to start

There are several possible starting points. If it’s quite simple, you can lay out the first row immediately from the corner, I’m guided along the floor line. But the first row will become even and without problems only if the floor is perfectly flat, without any deviations. Otherwise, you will cut the tiles to somehow get vertical seams. As a result of these trimmings, the second and all subsequent rows can “walk”. The work will be very hard and unpleasant. Therefore, it is better to spend time and mark the wall by finding the "start" points.

Wall marking

If you don't really care about the small pieces of tiles that you have to put in the corners and at the top, under the ceiling, you can skip this step. But if you want the whole tile to lie symmetrically, before laying the tiles on the wall, you will have to do the layout:

If it turned out that only narrow strips remain at both ends, it is advisable to redo the layout. If the middle was located in the center of the wall, try to expand from the seam, and vice versa. Should come out better.

With the placement of tiles in height, the situation is slightly different. In some cases, the seam is made at a certain level. In a bathroom, this is often the edge of an installed bathtub. If there are no such requirements, you can do the same: find the center, position (draw on the wall) the position of the tiles relative to it. Thus, you will find how you will need to cut the tiles of the upper and lower rows.

Vertically, you can arrange in another way: mark the first tile from the ceiling, and so on to the bottom. In this case, only the bottom row will have to be cut. This is not entirely correct, but the consumption of tiles is slightly less.

In any case, when calculating how to lay the tiles on the wall, mark the level where the first row ends. It usually serves as a starting point. This is where the tiling begins.

start line

According to the results of the layout, you have a line where the first row ends. Here at this height they nail a flat bar. Leaning a tile on it, they put up the starting row, and all subsequent ones on it. The first row is installed last, in which the tile will have to be cut.

Profiles for working with drywall are usually used as a support bar, but a flat dry bar can also be used. At a given height, it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws or dowels (depending on the wall material). In order for laying tiles on the wall with your own hands without problems, you need to fix it often enough: so that there is no sagging. Be sure to check the horizontal position of its installation. Even the slightest deviation should not be.

How to tile on a wall

The technology of laying tiles on the wall is simple. It consists of several simple steps:

A few points about the whole process. First, in the marked places on the installed plank, the extreme whole tiles (those that do not need to be cut) are glued. When laying out, you marked their position. It is very important to set them correctly. To do this, each is checked by a level in the vertical and horizontal planes. If the tile geometry is perfect, you can also check the verticality / horizontality at the edges. Then they take a long level or a flat bar with more short level and check how exactly one beacon bar is set relative to the other. They must be in the same plane. Then, with the help of this bar, they control whether each next tile is correctly set.

Description is one thing, but seeing everything with your own eyes is another. The video demonstrates the technology, after watching, you will understand exactly how to lay tiles on the wall.

The thickness of the adhesive on the wall

For those who are laying tiles on a wall for the first time, there may be questions about how thick a layer of glue is needed. This value depends on how smooth walls. If they are perfect, you can apply the minimum layer allowed in the instructions for the composition. If the walls are only relatively even, the "starting" layer can be 3-4 mm. Further, as necessary, it can slightly decrease or increase, correcting the unevenness of the wall.

There are several techniques for laying ceramic tiles. Not always glue is applied to both the tile and the wall. Some masters apply the composition only to the wall, others only to the tile, someone recommends dipping it in water before applying the glue, others do not. Choose the option that seems more correct to you. But it is more convenient for beginner tilers when the solution is both on the wall and on the tile: it is easier to move and level it.

Manufacturers of tile adhesive advise applying it to the wall, removing excess with a notched trowel, but this means a perfectly even base. Based on these recommendations, the cost of laying one square is calculated.

With another technique, the consumption increases by 50% or even 100%, since the wall has to be adjusted. But it is definitely worth listening to the prescribed dimensions of the spatula teeth.

How to cut tiles

There are several ways. For small volumes and not very thick tiles fit manual tile cutter. This is a device consisting of a platform on which tiles are laid. Overlays are attached to the platform, along which the cutter moves. The cutter moves with the handle, ripping durable coating. On the same handle, a stop is usually installed, with which the tile is broken along the line drawn by the cutter.

Another way is with a grinder, but it is very noisy and dusty. In addition, it will not work to make a perfectly even cut, but on emergency will go.

If necessary, round holes cut out with a crown of a suitable diameter, which is put on a drill. During drilling, so that there is as little dust as possible, the place of work is constantly watered. The result is a perfect hole, everything looks decent.

If you need to cut a strip that is too thin, you won’t be able to do it on a tile cutter: it simply won’t break off. Then, after drawing a line with a cutting disc or rod (for some firms, the cutting element is made in the form of a rod), the thin edge is broken off. In general, there are special tongs for this, but it works well with pliers.

If at the same time the edge turns out to be very uneven, it can be leveled a little with a file or sandpaper fixed on a bar.

Corner decoration

If the tile is laid evenly, the inner corners do not cause problems. Difficulties may arise only with the installation of crosses. Just turn them so that they do not interfere or break off the protruding parts. In general, they are joined neatly in the corners, and the seam is finally formed using grout.

Yes for internal corners more profiles. They are selected to match the grout, installed in a corner, leveled, and then attached to self-tapping screws or dowels. When laying tiles in a corner, tiles are supported on them. It turns out a finished corner seam.

Outside corners are more difficult. If you just join the tiles by overlapping the edges, it turns out ugly. To properly form the outer corner, you have to cut the edge at 45 °.

This can be done on a professional tile cutter. But not everyone has such equipment. Then you will have to work as a grinder. The first cut, approximately at the desired angle, is made with a smooth diamond disc. It should not have slots and holes, the spraying should also be even.

It turns out not very smoothly, and the outer edge has a rather large thickness. But this is only Preliminary processing. We cut the cut to the desired parameters with a grinding nozzle with the same disk. See the video for more details.

If you don’t want to mess around with such a pruning, there is another possibility - to decorate the corner with a special plastic corner.

Another video on how you can arrange adjunctions and seams when laying tiles.

To make laying wall tiles with your own hands completely clear, watch another video tutorial.

When finishing kitchen apron ceramic tiles technology is practically no different from that described above. There is simply no need to calculate the number of vertical rows. The place of "start" is determined by the height of the countertop: it should start 5-10 cm above the edge of the tile. Fasten the bar at the required level, align it exactly to the horizon, and you can start.

An apron in the kitchen is usually made on working wall. If this is not one wall, but two or three, you can start from one of the corners.

If it is laid out from a small tile, the undercuts may not be very conspicuous. If you want everything to be symmetrical, repeat the layout and start from the center, as described above.

The cost of high-quality laying of one square of tiles approaches the price of the finishing material. Consequently, many people are interested in how to lay tiles on the floor and walls on their own.

Having completed the renovation in the bathroom, a person is sincerely happy, because everything in the room is now new. Over time, he begins to notice that the sink is covered with rust and limescale, the shower is leaking, and the tiles are faded, cracked, or chipped. As a result, there are thoughts about updating the repair.

Trying to reduce the cost of repairs in the bathroom, they want to learn the secrets and subtleties of laying tiles. Anyone can master the art of tiling. When in doubt, read the article in which you will find general information for laying tiles.

Tiling organizes durable and beautiful decorative coating. Upon completion of the finishing work, an ideal surface will be obtained.

Seams. In case of wall tiles seams are horizontal and vertical. When it comes to gender, perpendiculars and parallels come to the fore. The width of the seams should be the same. Small plastic crosses of the same size help to achieve this effect.
It is customary to check the verticality of the seams with a plumb line. The size of the maximum deviation of the seam from the vertical axis should not exceed 1 mm. If the deviation is large, the first row is to blame.
The width and verticality of the seam is determined by the skill of laying and the quality of the tiles. Ideally, the size should match in height, width and diagonal. Despite the fact that at the enterprises the material is collected in calibrated bags, it is not always possible to avoid size differences.
The plane of the surface tiled should be as flat as possible. It is easy to check - attach to the plane building level and slip a banknote under it.
Novice tilers, laying tiles on a non-vertical wall, break the rows. Closer to the top, the layer of glue increases and may crack, and the tile will fall off. In this case, one can only dream of an ideal plane. Preliminary leveling of the wall will help to avoid this.
In some cases, the material is not flat. Consequently, at the very end of the facing works, "Amur waves" are formed. To check the quality of the tile plane, it is very simple to take two tiles from one package and attach them to each other. If there are gaps between the front sides, this indicates an unsatisfactory plane. The plane is usually checked vertically and horizontally.
The tiled plane must be level. As the theory says, tiles are placed on the most even surface. That is why uneven floors and walls are pre-leveled with screed and plaster. Uneven walls cannot be leveled with a layer of glue. As a result, a thick layer of substance will be obtained, which will adversely affect strength.
The tile is laid flat so that the adhesive layer does not increase much.

When laying tiles, be sure to observe the plane, horizon and level.

Video tips

If in the bathroom uneven walls, pay attention to alignment.

How to lay tiles on the floor

There is an opinion that hand-laying tiles on the floor is a time-consuming and complicated procedure. People who hold this opinion are very wrong.

First, let's prepare the floor. We remove dirt from the surface, moisten clean water and level with mortar. Prime the floor and let dry.
Tiles are placed on the floor in two ways. The first one involves the use cement mortar, the second - special glue.
Take four tiles and place them in the corners of the room. During the laying of other tiles, they serve as landmarks.
Lay the tiles parallel to the window line. The laying of the first row starts from the first, located in the corner. Be sure to level.
In the case of cement, it is recommended to seal the tiles to the floor. If adhesive is used, apply to the tile and apply to the surface.
Laying the second tile, press it close to the first. Remove excess adhesive mixture and separate with plastic crosses. The result is a seam.
Sometimes a whole tile won't fit. In this case, trim using special tool.
After completing the installation, wait a day. After the expiration of the term, we proceed to the seams.
If the tile is laid on cement, remove the excess mortar, and pour cement laitance after 48 hours. After two days, remove the cement, leaving only the seams.
In the case of glue, after drying, seal the seams with grout using a flexible spatula.

After completion of laying, the surface must be washed. If the tile is laid on cement, it is allowed to use the room after a week. In the case of glue - after 48 hours.

It is recommended to finish the walls in rooms with high humidity with ceramic tiles. It produces an excellent waterproof coating that will last for a long time. years. The surface of the material is not susceptible to chemical attack, so a variety of cleaning agents are used for cleaning.

step by step plan on laying tiles on the walls will help to avoid common mistakes and unnecessary costs.

Calculate the number of tiles. Using a tape measure, measure the width and length of the walls, and calculate the area. Add another square to the resulting value.
Choose your tiles carefully. The surface must be smooth, without flaws and kinks.
Plan ahead on paper so you know where you need to cut.
Prepare walls before laying. According to the rules, they should be leveled and primed. The quality of laying depends entirely on the evenness of the walls. Drywall or plaster will help align curved walls.
After completing the work on leveling the surface of the walls, proceed to laying. It is recommended to use special glue and a device for cutting tiles.
Attach tiles to the wall to lay out the first row as evenly as possible.
Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the tile and spread over the surface. If the wall is even, the thickness of the adhesive layer is within 5 mm. If a curve, the layer thickness is increased to eliminate the deflection.
Attach the first tile to the rail and the corner of the room. Glue the next one horizontally. Using a level, check the vertical and horizontal.
Crosses are inserted between the tiles to get an even seam.
Lay tiles row by row. After 5 rows, pause for the glue to dry. The adhesive mixture that comes out through the seams should be removed.
When finished, wait 24 hours. Then, without fear of overwriting the seams with a special compound. It is recommended to apply the grout with a flexible spatula.

Instructional video

Having carefully read the information, proceed to laying the tile. If the result of labor turns out to be far from ideal, do not be discouraged, because the savings and precious experience are worth it.

Lay tiles on drywall

In rooms with high dampness and temperature changes, drywall is used to level the walls. This construction material alignment of the wall, structures are constructed from it that cover the wiring, sewerage and water pipes.

Special rules have been developed for surface preparation and laying tiles on a wall made of drywall.

Under the drywall, make a crate. The base is mounted using a beam or metal guides. The tree is pre-coated with a special moisture-resistant impregnation.
Screw drywall onto the crate. The distance from one self-tapping screw to another does not exceed 20 cm. As a result, drywall will not warp under the weight of the tile and the masonry will remain intact.
Apply primer. If you prime the walls with a roller, use a special mold to squeeze out excess liquid.
Apply primer to drywall in two coats. At the end of the procedure, wait a little for the surface to dry.
Putty joints and heads of self-tapping screws. Use gypsum plaster and a narrow spatula.
Wait for the plaster to dry and remove the bumps with sandpaper. Prime sanded areas.
On a sheet of paper, lay out the tiles to calculate how much finishing material is required. Purchase tiles from a store with a margin.
Prepare the glue. As part of a simple procedure, it is important to adhere to the proportion indicated on the bag. Stir the mixture with a drill and a mixer attachment.
Ready mix applied to the wall in an even layer with a spatula. Then, in place, they are carried out with a special scraper, as a result, furrows will be obtained. In this case, the material will adhere well to drywall.
Start laying from the bottom row. Check verticals and horizontals with a level. Tilers recommend using plastic crosses to achieve even seams.
After laying 5 rows, take a break. While resting, the tiles will stick to the base.
After completing the laying of tiles, wait a day. After that, apply a special grout to the seams with a small flexible spatula. Remove excess grout immediately with a sponge.

If it seemed that laying tiles on drywall is a difficult undertaking, believe me, this is not so. Be confident and patient and get to work. After a few hours of practice, your actions will become more confident. Most importantly, don't rush.

Laying tiles in the bathroom

Many companies offer a turnkey bathroom service. The service deserves attention, but it is also expensive. It is more profitable to learn how to lay tiles yourself at home.

Before starting the main work, work with a pencil and a ruler. Based on the measurements obtained, create a surface plan and determine the location of the tile. Be sure to note the location of friezes, curbs and other decorative elements.

Strive to avoid narrow stripes of tiles in the corners of the room, as this looks ugly. Also decide on the styling option and size. After completing the calculations and calculations, get to work.

Prepare the walls by carefully leveling. A flat surface largely depends on the initial state.
If the wall to be tiled has been previously painted, remove the paint completely. Glue does not adhere well to painted surfaces. It is recommended to knock down the paint with a perforator with a special nozzle. Using the tool provides high speed work. True, accompanied by noise. If there is no puncher, use a grinder with a special nozzle.
If it is not possible to mechanize the work, a hatchet or spatula will come to the rescue if the paint layer is weak.
Remove debris from the wall and prime twice for greater reliability.
Before starting tile work, resolve the issue with communications. We are talking about sewerage, wiring and plumbing. An impact drill will make the task easier. The temperature inside the room should be above 8 degrees.
Start preparing the glue. Pour the dry mixture into a bucket of water in small portions and stir with a mixer. See the package for proportions.
Soak the tiles in water for 10 minutes so that the glue sticks well.
To obtain the most even masonry, it is recommended to use a level. Install plastic crosses between the tiles. They will help to make the seams extremely even.
In order for the tile laying to be distinguished by evenness and quality, correctly lay out the first row. This will help the water level and metallic profile, attached by marks.
After leveling and priming the surface, start laying. Apply the adhesive mixture to the wall and spread with a spatula with teeth. Then attach the tiles to the wall.
The tile on the wall is placed from the bottom up. Having laid the first row on the installed profile, proceed to the second row and so on up to the ceiling. Check the surface plane with a level, as well as the verticality of the installed tile.
The tile on the floor is laid according to a similar principle. It is recommended to start from the far corner and slowly move towards the door. To increase the convenience of masonry, use a construction thread.
After completing the installation, leave the work for 2 days. Then proceed to rubbing the seams.

If you are renovating a bathroom without help, do not be afraid, be patient and move forward. Remember, all the great masters in the past started the same way. With a little practice, you will get your hand and improve your skill level.

How to lay tiles in the kitchen

Everyone has to renovate the kitchen. best material ceramic tiles are used for facing kitchen surfaces. Its service life is calculated in decades, and after cooking pork and beef, washing the kitchen is much easier.

True, almost always a person finds himself at a crossroads. One way involves the involvement of a master, and the second - independent work. Since the second option is cheaper, most prefer it.

Training

Prepare the room. Remove from all walls outdated coating and tear off the wallpaper. Remove layer oil paint from the wall is almost impossible. In this case, make notches on its surface and prime it several times.
Resolve wiring issue. Install outlets at a height of 90 cm.
Determine the level in horizontal plane. It will help determine the location of the tiles on the wall.
Having received the markup, fix a flat bar or metal profile.

You can't solve the problem without tools. To lay the tiles, you will need a drill, a mixer nozzle, two spatulas, crosses, a milling cutter and a flexible spatula, a sponge. The list of materials is represented by tiles, glue and grout.

Laying

On the reverse side tiles from the factory are applied with an arrow or a special icon. Stack so that the arrows or icons look in the same direction. As a result, the discrepancy will be insignificant.

Glue the tile to the wall by installing it on the previously nailed rail. Align vertically with a level.
Glue the top tile the same way align to the plane. To control the seams, it is customary to use crosses, the size of which depends on the desired width.
The remaining material is laid in the same way to the corner of the room. The bottom row is immediately placed, then the top one, with crosses between them.
In the corners, the tiles are cut using a grinder with a special circle or a tile cutter.

Holes for switches and sockets are cut with a drill and cutter. There is no need to rush to solve the problem.

Today it is difficult to find a bathroom that does not have ceramic tiles. This method is convenient in all respects - it is created reliable protection premises in conditions high humidity and provide an aesthetically pleasing appearance. But at the same time, the quality of the material and the level of finishing work carried out are important.

How to properly tile in the bathroom, you will learn from this article.

Features of ceramic tiling

This material is the most versatile, can be used both for wall decoration and for floor covering. The advantages of tiles are as follows:

excellent moisture resistance - the ability to use in rooms with high humidity;
increased strength;
durability in operation right technology laying cladding will last more than a dozen years;
ease of cleaning with the possibility of using a variety of detergents;
a variety of choices in shape, size and color.

A significant disadvantage this method finishing is high degree the complexity of the work and their cost.

However, there is an opportunity to save on finishing if you do all the work yourself, guided by competent instructions.

How to lay tiles

The consumption of materials depends on the chosen design of the bathroom, its shape and area. It is advisable to calculate the entire finishing area and increase the amount of material by 5-7%. The qualifications of the performer and the chosen method of carrying out the work also affect the final result.

There are several styling options!

Direct is the easiest approach. Here it is required to lay horizontally or vertically in a row. The seams of each subsequent row should clearly match the seams of the previous one. This method is most suitable for rectangular-type rooms; it is easy for a novice master to handle it.

Diagonal - its use is advisable if you choose square tiles and lay it out diagonally. This method allows you to visually align the bumps, but requires more skill.

Checkered - used in square-shaped bathrooms and requires laying tiles in two colors in a checkerboard pattern.

With offset. Must be purchased rectangular tiles with an aspect ratio of 2 to 1. Laying is done by shifting each subsequent row to the side relative to the previous one.

Mosaic laying of individual ceramic elements of small size.

Installation planning

If you are a responsible enough person, then the image of the plan with drawing on it the picture that you want to get in real performance will not hurt you. Such a plan will help you clearly imagine the feasibility of laying decorative elements, determine the center of the walls and ceiling, plan the laying in a symmetrical manner and eliminate gaps and irregularities.

It is also advisable to prepare necessary tools and material. You will need:

adhesive mixture in the required amount;
water to dissolve the mixture;
grout for filling joints.

From the tools you need to prepare:

a container for diluting the solution and a drill with a mixer;
spatula for laying the mixture on the surface;
grinder, tile cutter, tongs and corundum bar for cutting and processing tiles;
level and plastic crosses to control the position of the tile.

Surface preparation

Tiles are laid on a leveled and cleaned surface, which will improve the quality of fastening and durability of operation. Therefore, at the initial stage, it is necessary to completely remove old finish. Then the surface is cleaned of small debris, dirt and dust.

Checking how smooth the wall and floor are in the vertical and horizontal planes, respectively, is done using a level. If necessary, it is desirable to plaster the surface to give it greater alignment.

After the plastered surface has dried, it should be primed with a deep penetration antifungal primer. After that, you can begin to perform the main finishing work.

Procedure for laying ceramic tiles

If you do not have much experience in finishing work, then you need to start with finishing those places that can be subsequently covered with interior items. Laying is carried out in the direction from the bottom up.

Even if you have clearly calculated the number of tiles in a row, you must attach the first row to the wall without adhesive mass. So you can evaluate the actual placement and formation of a gap at the end of the row.

If the gap is less than 2.5 cm, then the row must be slightly shifted. If it is larger and does not allow you to place a single tile, then you will have to cut and install only a part. It is recommended to place the cut tile at the very beginning of the row.

Coincidence should be avoided tile joints with joints on the base plates. Using a pencil or chalk, a mark is made on the placement of the first and last tiles in a row. The level will allow you to outline the line along which the tile row will be placed.

The application of the adhesive mass on the wall is carried out in stages as the work is carried out. It is necessary to mark a plot of four tile sizes in height.

Glue is laid on the surface within the marked area, for which a notched trowel is used. The mixture is taken from the container and evenly applied to the wall or floor in an even layer. When preparing the adhesive solution, the consistency must be observed - it should not be too liquid or thick.

The tile is pressed against the surface with the applied adhesive. Excess solution will be mechanically squeezed out of its edges.

Excess glue must be quickly removed before it hardens. If dried areas appear, they can be removed with a plastic or wooden spatula.

After reliable fixation, the position of the tile is checked by a level. If there is a deviation along the vertical or horizontal, these violations must be promptly and carefully eliminated, avoiding displacement.

In order for the seams to be even, special plastic crosses are used.

When finishing areas with pipe outlets, windows or other elements that do not allow uniform tile laying, it is cut off with a grinder or tile cutter. And with tongs for breaking ceramics, a shape is given.

Features of grouting

At the final stage of finishing, when the glue has dried, crosses are removed from the seams and filled with grout. A rubber trowel is used to apply the grout.

If this tool is driven in a diagonal direction, the mixture enters the gaps, thereby forming the necessary hermetically sealed layer. If excess dried grout remains on the tile, you can remove it with a dampened sponge.

The tile in the bathroom provides not only a moisture-resistant protective finishing layer, but can also give the room an original look.

Before anyone who is going to make repairs in their apartment or house, the question will definitely arise, how to lay the tile yourself. Well, let's answer it.

The first stage is the preparation of materials and tools

Installation of tiles on the walls

List of materials and tools

directly tile
Adhesive mixture
Grout
Tile cutter, glass cutter or grinder
Spatula for applying glue and grout
Primer
Drill with whisk attachment
2 containers (for glue and grout)
Level
rubber mallet
Brush

Now we can proceed to the second stage - surface preparation.

Preparing before laying tiles

In order to lay the tile yourself with high quality, you must definitely pay attention to the surface that you are going to veneer.

If this is a wall, then you should check whether it is even, or you will first have to plaster it, lay drywall (depending on the wishes of the owners). It is permissible if there are irregularities up to 5 mm on the wall - these can be corrected by applying a slightly larger adhesive solution to the tile itself.

But if there is more, then this method of leveling will not work, since the tile can simply fall off one fine day.

With the floor, irregularities up to 8 mm are permissible, again - we will level them manually, just when we lay the tile.

Then take a brush and prime the surface. This stage is not at all mandatory, however, it is he who improves the adhesion of the solution to the wall, which, undoubtedly, in general, will affect the quality of the installation.

Important! After priming, you need to wait exactly as long as it is written on the package.

In addition, if you are going to lay a tile on the walls, you should take care of the so-called "starting point", which will be a beam, fixed on the wall according to the level. In this case, you will have to use the help of loved ones, since it is unlikely that you will be able to evenly attach the reference line yourself.

Attention! Don't forget about the width of the seam between the tiles!

Did you count? For example, you need 10 whole tiles, and half. Here, at the height of this half from the floor, you measure the distance. Next - beat off the horizontal along it, and, with the help of home, fasten exactly the beam.

Now we breed glue in a bucket or other special container. To do this, pour the mixture, add water and mix with a drill.

Important! When mixing the adhesive mixture in order to lay the tiles yourself, be sure to follow the proportion indicated on the package - each manufacturer selects the optimal compositions, and there is no universal proportion here.

Everything, preparation for work is completed.

Laying tiles

So, how to act to yourself? The main thing is not to rush.

Laying tiles on the floor

If you are going to, it is best to apply the adhesive with a notched trowel directly onto the tile. Inflicted on one, crushed to the floor.

Important! Avoid excessive efforts, gently put it down, slightly pressed down, checked the level of horizontality, and - take on the next tile.

After laying 3-4 tiles, be sure to pick up the level again and check the overall horizontalness of the resulting surface.

If there are protrusions - take a rubber mallet, and lightly tapping on the tile, lay the tile under the general level.

But if in some places you “drowned” the tile due to excessive effort, then you need to carefully dismantle it, remove the glue, apply a new layer and lay it again. If the tile is “heated” due to the uneven floor, then in order to lay the tile yourself with high quality, you need to apply a little more glue than on other tiles.

So, gradually moving, you need to carefully lay the tiles.

If you have to lay tiles on the walls, then it is advised to apply the adhesive mixture directly to the surface with a spatula, and only then apply the tiles.

Moreover, after you wooden beam lay 2 rows of tiles, you need to take a break to give the layers time to set, since the higher you “lift” the rows, the more pressure will be exerted on the lower rows.

Therefore, remember - they laid 2 rows, took an hour for two breaks, and only then - proceed to laying further.

Another point: if you want to lay a tile with high quality and neatly yourself, then be sure to use the “crosses” that you will invest in the mixed space. They will regulate the thickness of the seams, and the styling will be flawless.

In the process of laying, it will be necessary to trim the tiles.

You can cut tiles with high quality with a tile cutter, and with a grinder as well, the main thing is not to rush.

So, the tile is laid.

Before you is the final stage - grouting.

Grouting and cleaning

Proceed to the direct application of the fugue into the seams should be a day after laying. Previously, it is impossible, since the solution has not yet set, and you, by applying force, can move the tile.

Before laying, you need to find out in more detail, as well as about the main points of the grout itself, and only then - start work.

And finally, cleaning the surface. If you make sure that no mortar remains on the tile during work, and when grouting, immediately remove the excess fugue (especially if the surface of the tile is corrugated), then you should not have any problems. Otherwise, you will have to take the advice of experts.

So, now you know how to lay the tiles yourself, and we can only wish you good luck!