How to attach steps to the iron staircase. Fastening wooden steps to concrete stairs - Beautiful decor guaranteed! Staircase on a metal frame. Experience noise insulation

Wooden stairs in the house are a very attractive element that is able to decorate or, on the contrary, spoil the appearance of any room. Beautiful carved stairs, like the one that is shown on the title photo is the prerogative of professional collectors and cutters, but this does not mean that simple designscollected by their own hands can not look spectacular.

In today's article, we gradually analyze the installation of ladders from the tree. This material will allow you to gather a good design with your own hands, not spending big funds on hiring specialists and material.

The first with which any builder is facing is the design of future works. In the case of the construction of the staircase, you will need to create a real drawing on the scale.

It is the drawing, not an outline on a piece of cardboard or a pack of cigarettes. This approach will avoid the appearance of common errors in the manufacture and assembly of parts.

Terminological dictionary

Before starting the story about the installation of the stairs wooden with their own hands, let's plunge into the world of terms and concepts.

Our task is to explore the main details, of which the wooden staircase is:

• ATTIV - Support beam, which stands under a slope and holds the steps. A feature of the guilty is that the steps are inserted into the grooves soaked in the body. In the diagram, this item is depicted on the left side of the viewer.
• Kosource - Purpose similarly to the tutor, but there is a difference in the structure of the part. If in the first case, the steps were installed in the groove, then the support is fixed directly on the upper face of the board, and the steps are stacked from above. On the diagram it is located on the right.
• Apartment or step - This is part of the design on which a moving person comes. You can also hear the name - the line cover.
• Treaty - This is a side decorative part of the stage installed vertically. It is not a carrier element, so separate designs do not provide for its presence at all.
• Support poles - There are starting, finishing and swivel pillars. They are the main carrier element for the ladder fence. Rotary are set if the design has more than one march.
• Handrails - This is a holder to which a person relies with climbing or descent.
• Balaasins - vertical elements that form a railing filling. Unlike poles are not supports, however, firmly attached, they significantly increase the strength of the entire design of the fence.
• Private step - Standard march step, which has fixed dimensions.
• Frierry steps - The first and last step of the span. They may differ from the rank size and shape, compensating the distance residue, when the height of the span on the number of steps.

Explanation! It is understood that the distance between the floors of the first and second floors is rarely a multiple height of the steps. Because of this, the lower stage has different sizes. And the upper frisosing stage goes into one plane with the top platform, and depending on the attachment of the rower can be completely tailored or repelled, with greater coming.

The designs that we will look at today are called marching. They are characterized by the presence of directly smooth lifting sites. Depending on the height of the span, the places for the staircase and the number of floors are satisfied with single-hour and multi-hour structures.

Multi-hour stairs necessarily have a rotation: 90, 180 or 270 degrees. Degree rotation, again, depends on the space in which the staircase is located. In the first two versions, the number of marches is two, and in the last one.

The more turns, the more compact the staircase can be made. For the compound of marches, intermediate sites and running steps are used.

Rotary platform is horizontal plane. It is usually located in the middle of the span, breaking the rise into two equal sections.

Starts, as if part screw staircase, ensure a smooth rise during the reversal. They can be located both in the middle of the span, and closer to the level of the first floor, reducing the first march, up to several steps. In this case, the turn is often placed in the corner of the room.

The stage itself is a trapezium incorrect form and mounted around a swivel support post with the overall height of the risers and a certain degree of displacement.

Drawing up drawing

So, we became known to us the main elements from which the wooden marching staircase consists. As you already understood, we will collect it in this article. Now you can safely move to the creation of the drawing.

First of all, we will advise you to apply for help to a professional designer, which competently calculates the amount of material, design dimensions, optimal shape and other design features. Naturally, you have to spend money, but sometimes savings can get up even more expensive.

If you are additionally spent, you do not have the opportunity, you can use free online stairs designers.

To work with these instruments, you will not need specific knowledge of communication with the computer. Everything is extremely simple and intuitive. You only need to accurately perform all measurements on the place and specify them on the calculation page.

IN country house Do not do without a march staircase, this element of the interior allows you to competently zonate the room and facilitate access from one room to another. There are two main types of staircases: on governments and cosos. The selection of this or that option depends on the set of factors (area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the financial capabilities of residents, personal preferences, design specificity).

The first type is a classic model and that is why it has a number of indisputable advantages. In this article, we will look at why it is better to choose a staircase on the growths, how to make it with your own hands and avoid errors when marking and mounting.

What is a string for the stairs?

To date, there are several different ways Assembling stair designs. Some require professional knowledge and skills, the installation of others is easily and fast. The category of simple in assembling transitions includes stairs on assets. However, before studying the principles construction workIt should be understood that it seems to be a string for stairs.

Under the guards for the stairs, it is customary to understand the support support of the staircase in the form of beams with special grooves or nests located on the inside. The main advantage of this type of fastening of the steps is the "closure" of the ends, which in turn does ready product Even more attractive.

The string for wooden stairs is the most universal option Fastening. It can be made even to a novice master, and special impregnations will increase the service life of the coating. Wooden stairs are most often found in private buildings, and for public institutions choose more interesting models from materials such as plastic, stone, metal. Different breeds of wood can also alternate.

ATTIVA as the base of the staircase design

Understand what the ladder is just just just, just look at the end of the product. This element is a supporting beam with grooves of certain sizes, in which the steps will then be mounted. According to the majority of experienced builders, it is theater that is responsible for the strength and durability of the marches.

The valid is a peculiar base of the staircase. Below in the photo shows the external differences of two popular fastening of steps (on the tutor and on the Kosoo).

Staircase on assets and cosos

As can be seen, Kosur is a curve beam that fixes the level from below. To increase the strength of such fixation, special propuls are made. This option is best suited for small rooms, as it is characterized by a large bearing capacity and saves free space. Staircases on the growths are more massive, but thanks to the design features, they are easy to manufacture and are absolutely safe in operation.

Please note that there are different types of stairs: straight, curved, spirals. When choosing, the operational characteristics of the future march should be taken into account.

Material and dimensions

The first stage involves the choice of sawn timber in accordance with the established dimensions of the future design. For this, the construction plan is made in advance and the project creates. Ultimately, you should have a one-piece beam without splicing. For the manufacture of the base of the staircase, various wood, metal and reinforced concrete can be used.

Preferred material for independent manufacture The stairs are a tree, the breed uses a variety of:

• Coniferous wood, such as pine, cedar or spruce. These are budget and reliable options. But the main disadvantage of such materials is the gradual isolation of the resin, which can interfere with uniform staining and subsequent varnishing of the span.

• Deciduous wood, such as cherry, beech and oak. This is the most optimal option. The most reliable are products from oak, they also do not require special care. With careful operation, such stairs will serve your family several decades.

If you are only planning the production of the staircase, you can determine the length of the lantern on the basis of the staircase. The width of the theater should be about 30 cm, the thickness is 4-5 cm.

Marking the Tetiv

Marking can be carried out in two ways:

• using a construction corner or ruler (the likelihood of error);

• using a special template.

At the beginning of the work it is especially important to decide on preferred option Location of steps in relation to the basis of the structure.

You can stay on the classic markup method - without a reference line (then the groove remains open), or make sockets closed (that is, to reproduce the reference line at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge of the workpiece). Both methods are great for self-assembly Stairs, so the selection of this or that option depends only on your personal preferences.

Option of manufacturing grooves in the assets

On the video: the markup of the gadgets do it yourself.

It is worth noting that in the manufacture of a wooden staircase with their own hands, you need to know how to avoid the divergence of the theater. For this purpose, certain fasteners are used.

The latch for the latch can be attributed to:

• Metal trample with wedges. They are reliable, durable, not suitable for compact designs.

• Wooden trenches with wedges. Such elements are quickly supplied to wear, but are simple in production.

• Screw tape with fixation on the nuts. Consider optimal option For fastening the guards.

Assembling stairs (bonding options)

Payment

By making calculations for the project of the future product, the following features of the staircase should be taken into account:

• the angle of inclination march must be within 30-40 degrees;
• the depth of the steps should not be less than 30 cm;
• the height of the feet on average equals 20 cm.

The calculation of the parameters of individual components of the stairs is made according to the formula, which is based on the length of the step. The average length of the human step is 63 cm, when using the formula, we obtain the results of: 63 ± 3 cm (2 heights of the stage + the depth of the stage).

Fastening and installing the tutor

After all the necessary measurements were made and calculations were made finished designThe process of making the marching staircase begins. Before that, you need to purchase all materials and tools that may be needed in the process.

For fastening and installing, the instruments will require such devices as:

• rubber tip hammer;
• electric logs and drill;
• manual milling machine;
• roulette, line;
• construction level and square.

If you are going to fix the string with the wall, and this the best way Of the possible, then you need to measure the used beam in advance and dried off the bottom. This will allow the tutor to smoothly lie on the floor plane. As a result of perfect actions, it will rely on the transverse beam of the opening, which will increase the strength of the whole design.

To better understand how to make a guy to the wall, look at the video where the whole process is clearly shown.

On video: Installation of the ladder to the wall.

In the manufacture of the stairs with their own hands, the question remains the most difficult - how to mount the steps and make their fit to the ladder. To prevent errors at this stage of work, we recommend that you use the following instructions:

1. The march is collected, after which it is placed in such a way that the actual is down. Next, it is necessary to carry out a flat line on the inside of the upper step and the riser.

2. Another line from the rear of the frieze sticking to the plinth level is made (most often its length is 7.5-8 cm).

3. The following effect involves the removal of the upper risk (and remember that the installation of steps is carried out only at the end of all adjustments).

4. If you are creating a gesture on the floor, then at this stage, tick the line parallel to the bottom sticky, the bottom beams will be distilled.

5. Immediately before installing the stairs, experts recommend to make a recess on the support rack (this will allow the base to fit tight on the upper overlap).

Please note that the installation process of the staircase with bent assets is somewhat different. Before starting construction work, we recommend that you explore the features of fixing steps and watch the video below.

On video: Features of the installation of the screw staircase on the assets.

Wooden staircase on giving hands

After the preparatory stage of work is completed, you can proceed to the most important point - fastening the steps and railings. Next, we will consider in more detail the whole process in order to avoid mistakes. Do not forget that the safety of you and your loved ones depends on the quality of the work done. Therefore, if you are not sure about your abilities, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. To save, select the most simple model of the stairs and inexpensive materials.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any design, this staircase model has advantages and disadvantages of operation. Advantages of specialists include the following important aspects:

• using the collection design, you can replace separate areas stairs;

• simple and quick installation of all parts (the main requirement is the accuracy of calculations);

• wooden models with proper care will serve you and your family for more than a dozen years;

• a wide selection of shapes and sizes (suitable, rotary or g-shaped);

• diversity design solutions (As an example, it is possible to make the production of steps without oppomme care).

The only disadvantage of this type of construction can be called overestimated requirements for the accuracy of calculations and fasteners. Incorrect design or poor fastening can significantly reduce the reliability of the stairs, which is fraught with accidents. The beams may disperse, step fall out of the grooves, and all your work will go to the pump. Therefore, if the money allows, and security is most important for you, better consult professional.

Types of docking

For the manufacture of this type of stairs can use different methods Docking steps and the guards. Properly fasten the details are not as easy, but initially it is worth determining what kind of disposal and risers:

• Precade is a vertical element of the stage necessary to give the additional stiffness and reliability of the entire design.

• Apartment is a horizontal element of the stage, which is based on a person when climbing or descent on the stairs.

Staircases can be without oppressive, but it is impossible to imagine a staircase without sticking. That is why all new and new fastening of steps and the guards are constantly being created. It can be a one-piece level or free option without a risk. Note that the second method is becoming increasingly popular.

Fastening steps

The process of fastening the steps to the tutor is quite simple. The processed and heated stages and risters are inserted into the grooves or screwed to the bars, metal corners. So that the design is not loosened, these details should be done with particular accuracy and accuracy.

Photo of ready-made stairs

A wide selection of materials allows you to make a variety of different stair structures. Wooden models are particularly popular with the cheapness and environmental friendliness of the material. Do not forget about the long service life of the wood, as well as the possibility of partial or full repair Products. Experienced masters Make a luxury staircase from wood that are suitable for any, even the most extravagant interior design.

What is better: the staircase on the growths or cososters?

When choosing a model inter-storey stairs Certain problems may occur. Especially often owners country houses Can not decide what is better - the guards or Kosur. Primarily taken into account external features Details and its use. Kosur is made in the form of a comb repeating its outlines of the stage of the staircase march. Thus, each appearance is attached to the upper face, and the risers are on the side.

Unlike the Kourow of the ATTA, there is even lateral outlines. Such a product looks more neatly, and the steps are practically not visible, since they are inserted into special grooves or are installed on fixed bars. Visually, the staircase on the crosses looks compact, but the design on the tutor is more reliable and safe in operation.

Choosing one or another option, pay attention to the layout of the room and the presence of free space. If the issue of saving space for you is especially acute, it is better to prefer the staircase on the cosos.

Making a staircase on the tutor with your own hands is completely simple, you only need to accurately stick to the specified sizes. All items must be treated in advance with antiseptics, write their dimensions and correctly carry out calculations.

The easiest way to build stairs (1 video)

Any staircase is based on carrying beamwhich can be performed as Kosur or a string.

The testers allow you to maximally adapt the stairs under the particular interior features, making it an elegant and modern one.

In the support, the steps are placed between adjacent boards, attaching to them ends.

It turns out that if you fix the steps to the growths, then the ends of them, in contrast to the installation on the booms, will be hidden, and the view of the stairs into the profile will be inclined and smooth. If you use only one tutor, then the second end of the step can be mounted in the wall. The staircases are coming with risers (closed) or without them (open), then to the the taisle, either horizontal from the vertical part of the step, or only horizontal.

The fencing of the stairs, making it reliable and convenient, is formed using balasine (vertical support columns), upstairs attached to the railings, and below the beam attached, with this frequency so that the gap between adjacent racks does not exceed 15 cm. This ensures the margin of safety. Perform a wooden staircase to protect it from cracking due to deformations under the influence of the medium, follows from some species of wood with a fence and fasteners. Staircase marches, platforms, railing together are connected precisely by Balyasans, so it should be particularly reliable.

In stairs, resting on the theettes, you can put balusters relative to the steps in an arbitrary place, since they are mainly bonded with beams, and not with steps. The easiest to attach the racks to the side of the theater outside. Then they are enough to scun them enough for screws, drilled before they are recessed, and with top of it closing with wooden disguise swords. From above, the beams on the edge can be used by the subfalsesennik (the board is slightly wider than the taisle), having a groove of the groove, the size of the width of the theetting on which it is dresses from above. The racks are applied to the sub-sane above, screwing down from the bottom with self-draws. Then the structure is washed with carpentry glue and planted on the theater, fastening the clamps. Balenasins on the beam can be planted using the ducts, fastening spikes of the circular section, drilled holes on half of their lengths in the racks and the tutor so that there is no backlash. All the specks are tightly inserted into the holes of the racks, fixing the glue, then the railing by the lower halves of the wrenches are fastened with the guide.

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Fix the rack

Mounting to the string is possible using studs. Take tools:

• saw end;
• drill.

Materials:

• aTTA;
• racks for railings;
• galvanized standard studs (M6 thread);
• pVA glue).

Perform gradually:

1. Market places for installing periodile racks.
2. Racks from the bottom are cut with a saw at an angle (the angle of the beam).
3. The bottom, in the ends of the racks, the holes are drilled (by 80 mm deep into the drill with a diameter of 12 mm).
4. Studs are sled to glue and insert them into the holes, leaving the ends about 7 cm.
5. In the tutor, they make holes with a drill with a diameter of 14 mm to a depth of 100 mm.
6. Balasins are inserted with studs in these holes, fixing the extreme columns first, then the rest.

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How to mount steps

The steps themselves are attached to the growths, embedding them into the beam or mounting on the support elements. These are corners or bars that screwed to the beam screws along the sticking line, horizontal parts of the steps. Slots are similarly attached to the supports of screws. You can make a staircase with steps embedded in the theater, in which the grooves are equal to the same (2 cm) depth with some indentation from the top edge, then sharpened with risers are inserted into them. Sometimes, using the simplest way, Stages are fixed, screwing screws into the end with the outside of the board.

A staircase is reliable and sustainable if its theettes are docked on the balusters. Then the beam consists of sites that are attached to the grooves of Baalian. In this load with upper parts The guards are redistributed to fender columns, and when using the entire staircase, including the tents, steps and balusters, turns into a single, interconnected system.

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Fastening

To make a mortise mount to the tutor, tools are used:

• manual milling machine;
• drill;
• lobzik;
• bit;
• screwdriver.

Materials:

• screws;
• wooden rails;
• plywood sheet;
• sticking and risers;
• taitives.

Perform actions:

1. The marking of the testers is produced using a plywood pattern of a sticky (or sharpening with a riser), carved taking into account the calculations for the march with the desired slope and number of steps.
2. We apply a support line on the tutor, retreating from its edge 50 mm.
3. To the Template, the guide rails, which will "slide" on the upper face of the board. By moving the pattern, mark the zigzag marking of the steps so that its vertices lay on the support line. At the top, the markup line ends at the level of the second floor site, and below the ending the sticking corresponds to the floor.
4. Make the grooves in the tutor (choose at an angle to the fiber line). In order for the grooves to perform qualitatively, it is better to cut them on the stencil from plywood, making a hole in it using a drill and a jigsaw, a little more sticky width and a risk and located at one tilt angle with lines on the markup.
5. Beam put on a goat, and stencils located on it, combining with the image of the first sticky, and nail.
6. Milling typewriter, moving clockwise, choose a groove to a depth of 20 mm, then processed by the chisel in the corners.
7. After performing the required number of holes, we collect the design, missing the ends of the steps and the groove of the glue.
8. Shining with risers fasten with screws; Steps can also additionally attach screws from the outdoor side of the taper, deepening them and closing with wooden plugs.

The grooves under steps must be made with high accuracy so that the staircase does not stick and scrip. In the growth of stairs with embedded steps, under them, for the fortress are placed (after 4-5 steps), tightening metal rods or bolts in the ends come, if there are no risers, i.e. Looking stairs.

To connect risers with steps, choose the easiest and enough effective method To connect parts from the wood array is a connection using wooden brazing. In our case, the heater performs the same function as in the manufacture of log cabins is the preservation of the verticality of the risk, and the prevention of its displacement into which or side.

In the figure, the numbers indicate the installation locations of the brackets, as it can be seen, it is necessary to install at least three copiers: two ones and one heater in the center of the stage. This embodiment of coppieres will reliably fasten the risers to the stairs stage. The depth of planting brazen in the step and the risers is desirable to make at least half of the thickness of the stage, that is, 20 mm.

Hello to connect risers and steps can be made, for example, from an array of birch, oak or beech.

Marking of holes in the steps can be started, only after the steps are cut into the size you need - 860 mm! Cutting steps on the side which is located to the wall of the house.

Now we go to the preparation of the compounds of the riser with steps. As can be seen from the figure, the stage A first is set, then the risers in which is already inserted, and after the stage B.

In order to fasten the subopurnum to the stage, it is necessary to make holes in the stairs. Also make holes in the risers and install it in them. Let's start disassembling an example of applying the layout of the device of the holes from the bottom stage A:

Face Hole Device

From the back of the stage, we measure 10 mm and carry out the x axis. From the left end, we measure 430 mm, the middle of the stage and conduct the Y1 axis. The side openings are placed as follows - from the left and right end measuring 50 mm and carry out the Y axis and the Y2 axis. At the intersection of the Y axes with the axis, we put the marks that serve as the center of the holes.

The markup of the stage under the leafer B is almost identical. Only the axis is as follows. From the back of the stage, I measure 289 mm and spend the axis you need. Next, all the actions on the layout of the holes repeat, as they did when the stage markup from the front side:

Holes device with back

On the riser on the lower and upper ends, we apply markup as follows. From the back of the end, we measure 10 mm and conduct an axis X. Further, so that the holes in the risers coincide with the holes in the steps, the finding of the Y axes we carry out the same way as on the steps.

In order for the holes to have the same depth, their drilling must be performed with a depth limiter, which can be done using the adjusting plank on a drill or drilling depth limiter is fixed on the drill.

Frame stairs are increasingly acquiring increased demand and popularity. Undoubtedly, this is due to the fact that in addition to strength and durability, they can be carried out in a countless variety of forms and structures. This article will be interesting for those who set forth the goal is not just a typical staircase, but a real highlight of their housing.

Choosing wooden stairs on a metal frame, you make a choice in favor of practicality, reliability and modernity. Huge dignity frame technology There is her adaptive properties, you can first make the frame of the stairs with your own hands with the calculation that it will fit into the overall design idea of \u200b\u200bthe room, or you can build a rough version of the frame, and in the future, perform the trimming of a suitable material.

The combination of metal with a tree is one of the strongest design solutions regarding the interior. Due to the successful combination of beauty and strength, designs of wood and / or metal are popular with builders and owners country cottages. This is one of the rare moments when builders and owners, relying on their tastes and preferences, clearly converge on one, on the choice of wooden stairs on a metal frame.

Metal staircase S. wooden finish Create an original setting and interior in the classic or an old style in the house. The possibility of decoration forged and wooden elementsThis is a real work of arts, which will give any place a true noble and respectable look.

The elegant metal staircase decorated with wooden steps has the form of rapid and easy, while remaining reliable and durable designcapable of withstanding essential loads over the years of operation. Metal is the strength, the wear resistance of the stairs, and the steps of the tree are comfort and style. The metal staircase and wooden steps guarantee the convenience of descent and / or lifting all members of your family, including the elderly, children and pets.

Make the calculation of the metal frame of the stairs

Wooden stairs on a metal base are made of light or durable varieties of metal, which is an important indicator of which is resistance to corrosion. The technology of building wooden stairs with a metal frame involves a partial one, or a full trimming of visible metal surfaces Tree.

By setting the goal, independently design and build a staircase, it is primarily to perform an accurate calculation of the metal frame of the stairs, which would have no unpleasant moments in the future.

The main indicator from which all the calculations of the frame of the staircase are based on the width of the human step.

On average, this indicator is 57-64 centimeters. Stripping from the above indicator, determine the ratio of the stage and the opponation.

• S is the width of the step,
• P is the height of the opponation.

The formula will be as follows:

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the formula for the convenience of the ladder:

As well as the formula for security conditions:

All values \u200b\u200bcannot be taken into account separately from each other, it is important to perform growing, given all the parameters of the structure, and for this it is necessary to make a clear analysis of the source data.

Test metal frame stairs with wood

The most popular way to finish when minimum costs Is installation wooden steps to the frame of the metal stairs. And the remaining visible parts of the design are simply painted in the appropriate color, as the result, the metal staircase looks quite harmonious and naturally.

If we talk about the complete trim of the metal frame of the stairs with a tree, the process includes a finish:

• upsembly space
• steps
• risers,
• imitation wooden tutor.

After such a "masking", the metal frame becomes invisible, and the staircase is visually indistinguishable from wooden.

For the design of exclusive stairs use wood of valuable wood wood:

The above-mentioned species of trees have high aesthetic, as well as operational properties.

Oak wood hardness at times exceeds the hardness of pine wood, and is compared with the hardness indicators of metal alloys. The natural material Unique, and resistant to mechanical damage and wear. When choosing an oak, the service life of the steps is equal to the resource of the carcass itself.

Mounting metal frame stairs do it yourself

As for installation and operation, the wooden stairs on a metal frame are almost unpretentious. There are several options for their installation. If the owner decided to independently perform the installation of the metal frame of the stairs in the house, he should look at the designs of the finished and precast modules.

They have a designer type, and are presented with separate details that are easily assembled into staircases, connecting between themselves in accordance with the attached instructions. Such modules are manufactured on industrial equipment According to the established gestures on wooden and metal designs of stairs. It is important to remember that such stairs require frequent care and special maintenance, to eliminate the occurrence of possible backlats, suspend connections.

All staircases are subject to periodic surveys and tests, to guarantee their safe operation.

Fastening wooden steps to a metal frame.

Highlights:

• In each stage of the metal frame, a mark is made for two mounting holes, every 15-20 cm, retreating from the edge of no less than 2 cm.
• If the fastening of steps to the frame is made by conventional self-drawing, then the holes in the metal frame are burned in "Pretty".
• To compensate for voltages when tightening parts, use fasteners with washers.

Even the most qualitatively manufactured metal frame may have minor height differences between the details. So that the wooden linings were highly sealed to the surface, the substrate is stacked on it. For fixation that is used by the usual mounting glue With the effect of the aggregate. It fills emptiness and forms a durable layer, resistant to crumbles.

The application in this embodiment of the mounting foam is absolutely excluded, the dried foam is able to frighten, it leads to corrosion, loosening and embroidering steps. The most reliable and popular material for the substrate is plywood.

Summing up It is worth saying that the staircase is wooden with a metal frame personally, it is perfect combination important moments: Durability metal design and the aesthetics of a wooden staircase. No other material owns such warmth and attractiveness as a tree. In addition to aesthetic attraction, a wooden staircase pleasantly surprises availability financial Party. You will not find materials cheaper and more reliable.

This article describes how to fix steps to a metal frame of your stairs under construction in various combinations of fasteners and a common design, i.e. For stairs on assets or cosos.

To begin with, it is necessary to determine which stages will have to be attached. In most cases, the material for the manufacture of steps is a tree and for self-mount Stairs It is precisely it is the main, although companies specializing in staircase and installation make steps from glass, stone, various polymers.

Technologically fasteners are reduced to the choice of the fastening plate of the plate on the rigid or some movable metal frame. If the design uses powerful booms (under the staircases) or the guards (from the sides of the staircase march), then the stage is less susceptible to dynamic loads (except for the bend of the stage itself under the weight of a person), and with more lightweight constructives, for example, stairs on welded cowrs from Profile pipe, dynamic loads are greasy. It is due to the mobility of the staircase elements, the glue is not used in these compounds, except in the cases of installation on a solid monolithic surface.

Stages can be mounted:
1. furniture bolts;
2. self-made;
3. futorto;
4. fisher Fisher (Fisher).

Fastening steps to metallic frame furniture bolts

Fastening with furniture bolts

The easiest I. reliable way Installation coming to the base. In this case, they are drilled through the drill with a diameter of a slightly more diameter of the body of the bolt and the base (shelf of the corner or the body of the Kouryer). A wide furniture bolt hat (anodized, galvanized or painted) hides small defects when sebacked, and its profiled part under a hat fixes it from a gross when tightening. During installation, it is impossible to delay the nut more permissible, because

metal bolt head simply sells wood massif.

The disadvantages of this method include the presence of a bolt hats on the stage of stage, especially if the fastener is performed according to the asymmetric diagram and the need to access the rich space for tightening the nut, which is not always possible. P.S. Sometimes in these cases, bolts with a conventional head and a wide washer can be used, but when at base (space or corner), the thread is cut or the sleeve (nut) is turned on and the thread is made and the diameter of the diameter is sufficient to use the key of the key of the desired size. For this option, you can pick up flat plastic furniture plugs of the required diameter and color in advance.

To advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and speed of fasteners; Availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, disassembly, replacement of coming).

Fastening steps to metallic frame self-drawing

Fastening steps self-proof

Installation of steps with self-drawers is good because all fastening elements are in the opposite part and external decorative finish It does not suffer.

It is desirable for fasteners to use powerful self-tapping screws with deep cruciform or hexagon groove to eliminate the slick of the groove when tightening.

Now it is often used for fastening the roofing screws that have a hex head and a tip in the form of drill. It is worth paying attention to the fact that such self-tapping screws are produced for wood and metal and differ in the drill diameter (for a tree thinner).

How to fix the wooden steps on the metal Kosur?

If the installation is made through the metal frame's profile pipe, then natural desire arises to use roofing screws for metal and immediately flash the metal and the stage of the stage, but it should be understood that the diameter of the drill is significantly less than the diameter of the turns, which ensures a good jamming area In the array of the board, in contrast to the metal self-building.

The self-tapping screw is conveniently used in the case of the staircase looked through the lower surface. At the same time, the metal structures are immediately made under the cone-shaped hat. It is worth noting that if the steps are not made of pine (relatively soft wood), but from larch, beech, ash or oak, then to screw the self-pressing with a diameter of 5-6 milmmeters, it will take pre-holes in a diameter of 3-4 mm (for the diameter of the main body. Samorza - where there is no thread), otherwise the self-screws will not completely screw.

Fastening steps to metallic frame Forto

Foodhouse for fastener

Immediately clarify that the Fortorka is a metal sleeve with internal and external threads. This method of fasteners of the stage can be attributed to the optimal installation of mounting elements and the convenience of mounting, dismantling coming up, but it can be used only for dense tree species, rather labor creations, requires stationary preparation and clearly compliance with drawings, because There is nothing to fix anything on the spot here. In addition, the fastening of the step to the metal roll can be made both below (on the shelf of the angle or space), and on the side of the end (ATTIV). It is this method or its analogue that large firms are used in modern staircase construction, for example, the German company Kenngot. They have ladders-designers with steps from wood, acrylic, stone and thread bushing for mounting in place.

Technologically, there is a hoodo with a diameter of an external thread about 20-22 mm and an internal 8-10 mm (on the forums they write about the use of a conventional hairpin with a thread M20 in which the hole is drilled and cutting the thread), in the milling line (the cutter does not have a large conical part ) Hole is done necessary depth And carving is cut. Such a large diameter is justified by the need for sufficient depth of the grooves of the thread in the wood for a reliable connection of parts. With the use of glue (for example, Kleiberit Supratac) Fortorka is screwed into an array of wood. Now the steps can be simply screwed (and repeatedly) to them with an ordinary bolt or stud with a decorative nut-cap.

Fastening steps to a metallic frame fastener Fisher

Fastening Steps to Profrube (Fisher)

Pretty new way fasteners based on the use of Fisher polymer mounting (Fisher), on the one hand, a large diameter sleeve with a hole in the center and tapered notches, working on the tree type (clogged into the hole easily, but resists output), and on the other - the sleeve dropped at Screwing inside self-press.

Before assessing the holes on the metal frame, cores are made of the kit, the steps fall into place and pushing the labels. Steps are drilled. Then the fasteners of the Fisher are installed in their sockets, they are bred by self-drawing and a step is planted on them. Unfortunately, personal experience There was no use of such a fastener for stairs, so it is difficult to say how this fastener behaves it is still difficult, but it is obvious that the decontamination of the step in this case is most likely to smooth the polymer slots and they will need to be replaced. In addition, it is hard to believe that the plastic sleeve will be kept in a wooden nest during the entire service life of the stairs. Most likely, under the influence of vibrations and curvating loads, the steps will disturb these fasteners. Perhaps they can be strengthened using glue.

What should pay attention to when choosing a fastening of steps?

The choice of the mounting option should be made at the staircase stage.

When designing a metal frame, it will determine whether the lower part of the staircase will be opened, whether access will be available from the bottom of the steps, they will illuminate the mounting elements and what is the absence of any elements (bolt or furniture heads) on the surface of the stage.

During the construction of the stairs, with their own hands, the design of the chawls (boosters) and angle (steps, ligaments) is often welded. This option is easier to sew bottom decorative material. Corners under steps to fly from above, and then climb the bottom with roofing screws.

For option modern stairs Long furniture bolts M8-10 can be used on the cosoms from the profile pipe that repeat the shape of the ladder, which are stitched through the stage and Kosur, with a decorative galvanized nut from below. You can order steps with Futors, but there must be 100% confidence in size. Also, for the option with self-draws, you can profile pipe Kourow can be drilled on top of a slightly more diameter of self-pressing, and from the bottom with a diameter of 12-13, where then install furniture plugs. Self-tapping screw (with a body with a diameter of 5-6 mm) is screwed down at the bottom with a magnetized scolding or screwdriver with a flexible nozzle. Sculpture, as a rule, is better stretched out of self-tapping screws.

In any case, you need to design a staircase so that the step lay down on the shelf of the corner, the channel or proftrube and attracted them to the fastening, and did not hang on point mounting elements. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in a tree and therefore many serious companies after the construction of the stairs recommend after a year or two to make a re-progressing of the entire constructive.

Staircase on a metal frame. Experience noise insulation

22/06/2009 22:19:58

The designs of stairs are different and depending on the materials used most often divided into wooden, metal and concrete (stone). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. Designing the staircase, first of all, consider such properties as the price, aesthetic side (beauty), the load on the design, practicality (wear resistance, created when walking noise, etc.). In this article, I will not consider construction features The design of the stairs, such as an angle of inclination, the height of the riser and the width of the sticking, etc. On this topic there are plenty of books and materials on the Internet. Suppose conditions allow us to mount a comfortable staircase that meets all the requirements of "Formulas and safety". What material to choose?

Traditionally, a tree is used to build stairs. Tree - Warm material, has a beautiful appearance, it is nice to walk. The staircase made of wood is sufficiently light, which means it does not create an excessive load on the supporting structures. However, the tree has flaws. First of all, it is a creak and noise when walking. Of course, a staircase made by all standards from valuable wood species as a rule, does not succumb and does not creak, but very road. Cheap stairs are most often made of pine and spruce (often insufficiently dried), which means that, over time, such a staircase will lose its initial geometric parameters and will begin to creak. In addition, pine and spruce are soft rocks and are subject to mechanical damage. Birch, oak, beech and more expensive wood species are much more resistant to mechanical effects, but two, three or more times more than coniferous rocks.

Often, concrete staircases are used in homes. Sometimes staircase marches buy factory, but most often metal framework is made, arrange a formwork and poured concrete right in place. Structurally concrete ladders can be whatever, if you correctly calculate the load, reinforcement and brand of concrete. Concrete stairs are the quietest when walking, but very heavy. Describing massive concrete stairs simply on the slabs of the floors can not be. Opportuning concrete stairs should be provided by carrier structures. In addition, concrete stairs require additional cladding. As a facing, most often used ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, but also a natural stone and tree.

Another type of stairs is metallic. More precisely, purely metal stairs in homes are rarely used. Most often we are talking about stairs on a metal frame. Kosomers or ATTAs are performed from channels (12-18), and the bases under the step are made from the corner (most often of the 40th), which is welded to the chambers. Steps for such stairs are made of wood or metal. Proposals metal stairs lot. First, quite low weight. Such stairs can be described on the slabs of overlaps. Secondly, the stairs made of metal strong enough and withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, do not lose their properties with time. Disadvantages are rather inherent not to the metallic frame, but cladding. The pines performed their pines on the metallic frame also begin to creak over time. To minimize this process, the stage to the metal frame is fixed not directly, but through Phaneur. A plywood thickness of 10-12mm is mounted on a metal frame on a hidden head bolts, and a wooden stage with a thickness of at least 40 mm is glued to the plywood on liquid nails. Thus, plywood performs several functions at once - the role of the load assembly, distributes the load, and also hides the carrier fastener. The metal frame is also good and the fact that the steps can be replaced with time (for example, pine on the African red tree) without any difficulties. However, it is worth saying about the most important shortcomings of stairs on a metal frame - noise. Steps on such a staircase will hear all the households, even if the cat is going on the stairs.

The higher the weight of the wooden cladding, the smaller the metal frame is knocking. Thus, for noise insulation of the metal structure, it is necessary to load something. Steps, risers, bales, pillars, railing. All this is understandable. Is it possible to do anything else? I was asked the same question. The name of the driver's noise insulation, I decided to apply my knowledge and in the field of construction. When it comes to the noise insulation of the metal structure, the technology of vibration insulation of metal, damping of vibrations created in the metal is usually used. After all, any sound is a process of vibrations and friction. In order to vibrate the stairs, I decided to apply the materials tested by me from the company standardplast. Before that, I worked with such materials as a vibroplast, a visomat, a MP visomat. But the company presented new Material Under the brand name BIMAST. I decided to apply the most expensive material BIMAST BOMB thickness of 4 mm, which, according to the manufacturer, is better than other materials struggling with vibroaccoustic noise. But I chose this material in fact only for the simple reason that it is the hardest in the line of materials of the company standardplast. In addition, the BIMAST material does not require additional heating and is well cut.

BIMAST BOMB consists of two layers - elastic bituminous mastic and severe bituminous material. It is clearly visible in the photo. Considering the material I got the impression that the Bimast Bomb is glued together with the vibroplast and the MP visomat, which is probably not quite so.

For a start, I decided to save Kosur - Schweller with inner. To do this, I carefully laundered the channel from Rust and degreased White Spirit. The material is cutting and the truth is good. To order a little bit, the mastic is a common household hairdryer and began to glue. When I saves almost the entire channel, I began to compare (with a climbing method) sound of the treated channel and untreated.

The result, of course was, but minimal. BIMAST BOMB significantly did not reduce the noise level from the steps, although at easy climbing, a certain decrease in the level of vibration was felt. The thing is that the weight of the material in relation to the eighteenth week was insignificant. A three-kilogram leaf of Bimast Bomb has passed on a series of 3.5 meters long. This amount was not enough to ensure the thick chaser effectively. In addition, the lion's share of noise was created by corners, and not by the Schwerler himself.

Or maybe the material is bad? When I remained a roll of material of the uniflex, I put it on the noise insulation of metal window ties on the waterproofing. Flushed at rain as empty cans, and when I saved foals from the inside with a heavy bitumen uniflex material, and also planted foals on mounting foamI understood what silence is in the house. Even during a strong shower, I saw only water on the glass, but did not hear the noise of falling droplets. The uniflex material also had a thickness of 4 mm, but his weight was somewhat more.

In principle, it is not necessary to buy expensive branded materials for noise insulation. For vibration insulation, any heavy bitumen materials are suitable, because vibrations are preferably the weight. So, the uniflex is not inferior to the BIMAST BOMB in efficiency, however it is worth noting that the waterproofing material does not have an adhesive layer. It will not stick to the metal just like that. It must be sent! It is desirable to grind the surface with a bitumen primer. I applied the material ordinary gas burner Kovea.

On all photos of the staircase without facing, with temporary steps.

According to the experience, I will say that on horizontal and vertical surfaces, such vibration isolation is kept more or less, but when the material is glued to the metal from the bottom - usually falls off for half a year. 😉

BIMAST BOMB or MP visomat?

I spent another experiment. The second steerler staircase has processed the familiar material of the MP visomat with a thickness of 2.7 mm. Visomat MP without measurements visually really thinner BIMAST "A, lighter and tougher. To cut the visome of MP scissors more difficult. The MP visomat is necessary to warm the hairdryer. Glues on the metal Vomomat MP worse. And the result was worse. Sound from blows on metal of different intensity On that channel, which is processed by the Bimast Bomb material. As a result, BiMast Bomb is valid yet best Material In the product line from the company, standardplast, although more expensive retail by 25%.

So I want to summarize your research. The costs of noise insulation of channels that perform the role of the cosomov are not comparable to the result.

However, work is not yet completed. It is necessary to know whether it makes sense to glue corners performing the role of a frame for steps and risers. After all, the lion's share of noise they create exactly.

And some other theory

Just in case, for those who are interested, I will specify several parameters for the competent calculation of the stairs.

• Risers - stage height
• Disposal - width of the stage
• Optimal Ladder Ladder 30-35 degrees
• The slope of the staircase should not exceed 45 degrees
• Double height riser + stage width must be in the range of 57-65 cm
• The amount of width and height in the optimal staircase must be 45-46 cm (safety formula)
• The optimal width of the stage is 28-30 cm (at least 25 cm)
• The height of the riser is 14-17 cm (no more than 20 cm)
• The difference in the width and height of the stage should be about 12 cm (Formula of the convenience of the stairs)
• The height from the plane of the staircase to the ceiling must be at least 2 m.
• The number of steps in the lambs should be odd (from which legs we go to the stairs, with this and out)

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2016-03-15 14:23:05 | Tatiana Borzov
Andrei, you can ask a question? House Blocks Wong 375, I have already written that I confirm all your comments on this material, in the article about the shortcomings of this material and what sellers are silent. The staircase made of metal frame, how did you fix it? I have floors wooden lagum. I want to put it on the main foundation, the design of the house allows you to make a barbell in the wall and open 4 racks, turning up to the foundation.

2016-03-05 23:00:06 | Alexander
Rights means playing. Additional slaughtering kink some on the inside for rigidity. I have a design on the similarity, well, a little different svarina, but the idea of \u200b\u200bthe same. If you remove the rotary part of the stairs, the direct part of the channel 12 wall is 1 cm. Length 4.5 M. Corner of steps 5 Wall thickness 5 mm. At the top of the staircase welded to the height. So, despite the fact that there is nothing about one metal rattling. To achieve stiffness and will be happiness.

2016-01-06 07:17:07 | Sau.
I have a design of steps from the corners like Andrei, but neither the ringing nor vibration when walking. On top of the corners with self-draws, the top is screwed at the bottom, and on top of the five carpeted coating.

Most likely, the ringing and vibration is not due to the fact that additional supports from the square profile are welded in the middle of the chapellers.

2014-06-01 15:23:23 | Andrey_K.
I agree with Paladin! Such a design really contributes to good acoustics) True, it seems to me, a heavy sewer contributes to a greater extent. For a long time I break my head over the stairs - to put soon. But the boosters will make a thin metal profileFrom the same from which the framework is made - it will be much easier. True, there are nuances - it will also be rigidly fixed to the frame. But I think we use rubber gaskets in the mounting places. Much will depend on the material of the steps - its acoustic properties, but I really want to make steps and a span area transparent. As for bitumen and bitumen materials - so much this good surrounds us in real lifethat I tried to avoid their use inside the house. As vibration and hydraulic meters (1 to 2), I used (as far as the only one in Russia) materials of the plant in the lower (like) Novgorod (Abis). Their feature and advantage is that synthetic rubber is used as the main material. Materials are not cheap - the toad did not just chat ...) But, in my humble opinion, and, as evidenced by the British, "I am not so rich to buy cheap things" ( Russian in t "Miser pays twice"). So I had to endure :)

2013-09-23 23:05:01 | Andrey_B.
Eugene, do you always perceive everything literally or sometimes try to penetrate?
1. Formula of convenience and 12 cm - it's not about the staircase as a whole, but about the step.
2. You can call the risk everything you think. I personally do not mind. But believe me on the word, not all the stairs are made of wood. Simple words, the most common staircase made of concrete, as in the entrances. Where is the thickness of the material, eh? And where is her risers?
3. Optimal bias - the concept of subjective. I have 4 stairs at home. I do not feel difficulties with 20 degrees or 45. But from my point of view (supported, by the word, theory) 30-35 degrees - the most convenient angle. If it seems to you that this is not the same and your opinion is the only right thing, I see no reason to discuss.

2013-09-23 18:53:21 | Evgeny
"The difference in the width and height of the staircase should be about 12 cm (formula for the convenience of the stairs)" - as it turns out, I have a staircase with a height of 295 cm and what does your calculation should be the width ??? Even scary to imagine!

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