Big monstera - transplant and care. Monstera - learning how to properly care for a tropical liana Caring for a monstera at home transplant

Speaking of the green representatives of the aroid family, it is impossible not to recall the beauty with carved foliage and long aerial roots.

When they first got into the monstera tropical thickets, the travelers were very frightened by the frightening appearance of large-leaved vines, which turned out to be completely harmless. Despite the fact that monstrum is translated as “monster”, the plants so named are complaisant and unpretentious, grow well both in the jungle and in tubs.

Monstera: harm or benefit?

Information is “walking” on the Internet that the monster cannot be kept at home. They say that she is supposedly poisonous, has bad energy. The question arises whether it is possible to keep a monstera at home.

In fact, neither the stem nor the leaves of this plant, unlike dieffenbachia, euphorbia, which can often be found on the windowsills of apartments and in winter gardens, do not contain poisonous milky juice. So they are no more dangerous than the stems and leaves of everyone's favorite tomatoes.

Some of my friends have monsters living in bedrooms or living rooms without causing any visible harm. Although chewing them, of course, is not recommended ...

As for the action of these luxurious plants at the energy level, their ability to destroy families and cause other family-scale cataclysms has not been scientifically proven, which means that you should seriously fear for your home, having settled a monstera in it, it is certainly not worth it. In the end, we are responsible for relationships with people close to us, and not our green pets.

But the fact that a frightening-looking plant perfectly cleans the air by absorbing some microbes is undeniable. It is not for nothing that this plant in the East is placed by the bed of a seriously ill patient so that it heals him by ionizing the air.

In addition, monstera is a natural barometer that is never wrong. So, before the rain, droplets of water appear on the tips of its carved leaves.

For not too experienced lovers of green exotic monstera is a great option. It is so unpretentious that it easily tolerates the mistakes of agricultural technology. Naturally, you should not abuse her "patience" and it is better to grow it right away, from a young sprout.

If you manage to find mutual language with a tropical guest, in a couple of years you can grow a large plant with leaves up to 40 cm in diameter. By sacrificing part of your living space for it, the owner will be able to enjoy the emerald green of its carved foliage, which in some species, with enough sunlight becomes originally spotted.

How to water a plant with carved leaves

The tropical origin of the monstera "dictates" the conditions of its maintenance. The main thing is sufficient watering (once a week in summer, less often in winter) and a regular shower from a spray bottle.

This plant loves water procedures very much, but the water must certainly be warm and soft. If it is too hard, unattractive streaks will remain on the shiny foliage. In addition, the respiratory stomata through which the plant “breathes” will clog.

Monstera leaves, which often reach impressive sizes, collect dust on themselves, which must be removed as it accumulates with a slightly damp sponge.

Lighting Monstera

Nature has given us not so many plants that do well in the shade. Monstera is one of them. True, variegated forms are still better placed closer to the light.

But the most common type of this plant - Monstera delicacy - tolerates a shadow, so for it you can find a corner with a thicker blackout.

Temperature

The tropics are constant high humidity, diffused light and warmth. Ideal temperature regime for summer period monstera room life - 22-23 degrees.

In winter it can be cooler - about 16 degrees. At lower temperatures, root rot is possible.

Fertilizer (top dressing)

Even the most balanced soil depletes over time. So that our beauty does not experience hunger and receives good nutrition, you need to take care of this. I said at the beginning that Monstera is not capricious, and it is. All she needs is top dressing with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer, which is suitable for almost all deciduous plants.

The frequency of such a "treat" is about once every 10 days. Variegated forms can be fed with a special mineralized cocktail designed specifically for them. You can buy it at your nearest flower shop. We fertilize the plant only on moist soil!

In winter, it winters well even on a starvation diet. The result of fertilizing with a short daylight hours is the appearance of weak leaves, which often do not even form a carved pattern.

How to tie a monstera

Monstera is a vine that needs support both in nature and at home. It would seem that there is nothing complicated - just pull the rope, attach a flexible stem to it with the help of fasteners - "eights" and - voila!

But the rope option is more suitable for scindapsus or philodendrons. These creepers are not so massive, but an adult monstera, which can grow up to 3 meters long, needs a more reliable support. In the natural environment, it is tree trunks, but in indoor conditions it can be a special pole wrapped in coconut fiber, which must be installed vertically in a pot.

If you do not want to spend money on buying it, you can make a support with your own hands.

How to make support at home

You will need a hollow plastic pipe (a plumbing pipe with a diameter of about 10 cm is suitable). It needs to drill holes in the thickness of the air roots.
The lower part of it should be dug up and filled with stones, which will serve as a load and hold the structure vertically.
We ram the sphagnum into the rest of the void. It will need to be kept moist. After a while, the plant will sink into it with its powerful roots and receive not only support, but also additional moisture.

Attention: under no circumstances should you cut the air roots! It is better to direct them to the soil.

How to plant young plants at home

In stores, we are offered cute bushy monsters. But usually they grow in one liana, and the “bush” that the seller hands over is several young plants crowded in one pot.

While they are too young, they, like people, feel good together, but the closer the root plexus turns out to be, the tighter and more uncomfortable they become in one container.

The best option is to plant monsters in separate pots. It is not difficult to do this at home. The main thing is to be careful with the air roots, trying not to break them off. They provide plants with nutrition and oxygen directly from the air.

So that seating does not become too much of a trauma for young monsters, they must first be watered abundantly, and then carefully released from the pot, grasping the base at the roots and slightly pulling up. They will easily slip out of the pot along with the earthen clod. Immerse it in a large container of water. The roots that are maximally freed from the substrate are easily untangled, and we can easily separate the plants from each other.

For the initial planting, you will need pots with a diameter of 10-15 cm. We make drainage in them - we put stones, gravel or small expanded clay. The thickness of the layer is not less than 3-4 cm.
Next - a soil mixture consisting of soddy soil, peat, humus and sand (in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1). We pour a little of the finished substrate - just so as not to plant the roots on bare drainage. We fill them with soil mixture completely and tamp, without being too zealous.

Transplantation of an adult plant

If the monstera likes care, it begins to grow by leaps and bounds, giving up to 50 cm of growth per year and many young roots. It does not tolerate crowding, so the young specimen must be transplanted every spring. Each time we take a pot of such a diameter that an earthen lump of a plant can easily enter it, and there is still at least 5 centimeters between it and the walls of the container.

We place the plant with an earthen clod in a large container and fill the side voids with a substrate, and the job is done!

Plants at the age of 4 years need to be transshipped in 2-3 years, and those that are older - once every five years. But the top, layer of soil (to underground roots) needs to be changed annually.

So that the plant does not reach for the light with one stem, but branches, it must be “operated” at a young age by cutting off the top with 3-4 internodes. Thus, we will receive material for reproduction, and we will force the plant to branch.

But keep in mind that it will be much more difficult to hold it vertically - you will need not one, but several supports. Therefore, pruning it is not always justified. But if you already decide to do this, then you need to stock up on a sharp knife.

You can cut a dense stem only with a disinfected blade. The cut point should immediately be treated with crushed charcoal to prevent bacteria from getting inside.

How to propagate monstera at home

And now - a few words about how monstera breeds at home. There are two ways - by seeds and vegetatively, that is, shoots and part of the stem with roots.

The first way is long, troublesome and unreliable. Buying seeds with good similarity is a problem of problems. But if you are lucky and find what you are looking for, you can try to grow a powerful plant from a seed.

Reproduction by seeds

To do this, you need a bag with a zipper, on the bottom of which we put wet sphagnum (about 5% of the volume). inner space) and lower the seeds into it, slightly covering with moss.
We close the fastener and place the bag in heat (at least 25 degrees).

Seeds germinate in about a month and strengthen in a closed ecosystem created inside a greenhouse bag. When the seedlings give 2-3 leaves, they can be planted in separate pots, filled with a mixture of sand, soddy and leafy soil (in equal proportions).

Reproduction by cuttings

The second way to propagate monstera is simpler and less risky. planting material obtained during cutting.

We place the cut top in water, adding a couple of drops of root to it. If you need more cuttings, cut them from the stem mother plant. Each should consist of 2-3 internodes with aerial roots. We also put them in water. When it gets cloudy, it needs to be changed.
As soon as the container with the cuttings is filled with roots, they can be planted.

Among the tropical exotics that came to us from the American tropics, there are plants that are pleasing to the eye and do not cause trouble. One of them is Monstera, which grows well at home and reproduces easily.

True, it is extremely difficult to get flowering from her in an apartment, but her buds are not as beautiful as carved ones, with white veins or green leaves. It is they who are the main decoration of a plant that knows how to be grateful for care ...

Monstera is a fairly popular indoor plant with aerial roots. It relates to evergreen shrubs and large vines of the aroid family, so it’s worth keeping a growing monstera only in large spacious rooms, because it grows quickly enough. And how to transplant the monster correctly, so as not to accidentally damage the plant, not every amateur gardener knows. It is because of its large size that the monster got its name (monster - a monster). This liana is unpretentious, it needs a bright diffused color, room temperature, high humidity (monstera needs to be sprayed regularly) and fertilizing about a couple of times a month (less often in winter) with organic fertilizers.

In nature (and the birthplace of monstera is South America), the plant blooms regularly, this rarely happens in an apartment.

We transplant the monster into pre-prepared pots
Monstera can be transplanted when she is one year old. It is customary to transplant young plants annually, choosing for this spring period when the outdoor and indoor temperatures become higher. Required minimum, at which the monstera does not slow down its growth: +16 degrees.

It is customary to transplant a three-year-old monster every two years. Once the plant reaches the age of five, it can be repotted every four years. Only the earth in pots needs to be topped up annually.

For transplanting, choose spacious pots. Do not plant a young plant immediately in a pot large diameter, increase it gradually. Arrange competent high-quality drainage by lining the bottom of the pot with shards, pebbles, broken tiles, coarse sand. A young monstera requires slightly acidic or neutral soil, consisting of peat, deciduous, humus soil, turf and sand, while an adult will use more acidic soil. Insert a support into the center of the pot - an ordinary stick wrapped in moss fixed with wire can act as this. The support will help the monstera to support in the pot right conditions for the growth of the plant itself, as well as its aerial roots. Roots that cannot yet reach the ground will receive moisture and additional nutrition with the help of moss in order to grow faster.

Carefully remove the monstera from the old pot, put it in the middle of the new pot, fill it with earthen mixture, fixing its roots. Next, you need to quickly fill the earth to the top of the pot, water the plant.

The best earth mixture recipe for a young monstera: one part of leafy earth, one part of sifted sand (better than sea sand), three parts of turf. After transplanting, the monstera can get sick, its leaves will take on a yellowish tint. However, do not worry in vain: in a week the plant will adapt and turn green again. Then it can be watered.

How to transplant a plant with roots
An adult monstera often has a large number of aerial roots, which somewhat spoil the attractive appearance of the plant. And how to transplant a monstera with aerial roots?

When transplanting, a couple of such roots must be carefully wrapped with wet twine and secured to the trunk. When the roots begin to sprout small roots, part of the monstera trunk, along with the leaves, can be cut off, planted in a pot, covering the place of the cut with earth. So a new, young plant will grow. On the old one, a fresh “wound” must be sprinkled with fine coal, later side shoots.

Monstera is often disliked due to the belief that this plant is supposedly capable of destroying a family. However, do not refuse to purchase this wonderful and unpretentious plant, which can grow to a five-meter giant.

Huge fans of dark green openwork leaves on long petioles, cords of aerial roots on a thick stem - this is what the monstera looks like. A plant that superstitious people are afraid of and that flower growers who are well acquainted with it love. How not to love this miracle of tropical nature. After all, monstera creates harmony and comfort around itself, purifies and ionizes the air, and, as experts say, it helps to develop intelligence. It is no coincidence that these creepers plant trees in schools, others educational institutions and offices. At home, monstera will also be appropriate, it is a very easy-to-care and propagate plant.

Plant with openwork leaves

Monstera is a typical representative of the South American tropics. V wild nature this vine grows up to 50 meters. And its carved leaves reach a meter wide. To climb trees, the liana grows strong aerial roots, which, descending from the branches, reach the ground. If the monstera has lost contact with the soil, thanks to the air processes, it will be fixed on the trunk where it lives and become an epiphyte (a plant without land).

Monstera leaves, large, shiny and leathery, deserve special attention. They are located on long petioles and are equipped with an amazing "carved" pattern. They have elegantly cut edges, and sometimes neat symmetrical holes are punched. Interesting not only appearance monster foliage, but also its internal organization. The lateral veins of the plant are equipped with special organs - hydiators. With increasing humidity, they release droplets of a transparent liquid. It seems that the monstera cried. It has long been observed that weeping begins before the rain. So Monstera is a natural barometer.

V natural conditions liana blooms. A large (30 cm) yellowish, cream or lilac inflorescence is very similar to a corn cob, covered with a petal like a veil.

The monstera fruit ripens for almost a year. In a variety of a plant called delicacy, the ripe cob is edible, inside its juicy pulp, its taste resembles something between a banana and pineapple. But in captivity, monsters rarely bloom and do not bear fruit.

Monstera is often confused with the split-leaved philodendron variety. These plants are the closest relatives, they are from the aroid family. But philodendron leaves are more elongated and pointed at the end. The most important difference between monstera and philodendron is juice. If you want to make sure which plant is in front of you, break off or cut a shoot or leaf. Monstera has clear juice, while Philodendron has milky juice.

Monstera is one of the most undemanding, and therefore popular plants in indoor floriculture. They are loved for their original greenery and fast growth. At home, the liana, of course, is ten times less than in nature, but it can grow up to 4 meters. Not everyone can comfortably accommodate such a giant at home. But in public places, monstera is a frequent inhabitant. She does well with vertical gardening, looks great in tubs or stylish planters, standing apart from other flowers. It is believed that monstera not only heals the atmosphere, but also absorbs negative energy.

But the openwork monstera also has opponents. Some of them believe that creepers have no place in the house. This superstition has a long history. In the 18th century, when Europeans began to settle latin america, there were rumors that giant killer plants live in the jungle. The pioneers found the remains of animals and people, riddled with stems and roots. They said that the plant allegedly attacks living beings. But the truth is that the plant sprouted through someone who had already died, lost in the jungle.

Such tales have done a disservice. An innocent creeper was called monstera - monstrum, which means monster in Latin. But according to other sources, the name of the plant comes from the word monstrosus - bizarre or amazing. This definition is best suited to an exotic liana. Its foliage creates bizarre patterns, and the plant, familiar to flower growers for more than three centuries, still surprises and delights.

Delicious, oblique, thin and other monsters

About 50 species of monstera are described in nature, but only a few of them moved into houses. Others remained in greenhouses and winter gardens. Let's get acquainted with some representatives of domesticated monsters.

Monstera delicacy, which is also called attractive and tasty, is the leader in popularity. At home, in equatorial America, it is grown for delicious fruits. In harsh climates, this creeper adorns greenhouses and rooms. In greenhouse conditions, this monstera stretches to 12 meters, in room conditions only 3. The creeper has fleshy dense stems. Heart-shaped leathery leaves are large (60 cm), strongly dissected, with lobes and holes. This variety can also bloom when kept in an apartment.
Monstera delicacy has a variegated white-and-white form, it is also called alba. It does not grow as fast as the green one and is a little more whimsical. But these shortcomings can be reconciled due to the incredibly beautiful leaves. They are the same "lace", but are also painted with white patterns, which can take up half the sheet. And the older the plant becomes, the more white marks. In the variegated variety, the stem is also multi-colored.
Variegated marble monstera combines yellow and green leaves and stems.
Monstera Borziga is bred on the basis of a delicacy. But this is a more miniature liana. The leaves are smaller, no more than 30 cm, the shoots are thinner. Good and fast growing room conditions.
Monstera adanson (aka pierced or full of holes) comes from the Brazilian jungle. This is a vine about 8 meters long with large (up to 50 cm) thin ovate leaves. A lot of small holes are randomly “punched” on them. The plant blooms reluctantly. In room conditions, monstera adanson is successfully grown, but so far it is not common.
Monstera oblique or unequal comes from the tropics of Brazil and Guiana. This climbing vine has relatively small (20 cm) asymmetrical oval leaves on short (12 cm) petioles. The inflorescence is only 4 cm long. The plant is cultivated as an indoor plant, but specimens from the greenhouse look better and more spectacular.
Monstera doubtful (dubia) is a rare variety. This delicate miniature creeper has whole young leaves with a silvery ornament along the veins. They resemble the foliage of scindapsus. With age, they turn green and become perforated.
Monstera pointed is a compact vine - 3 meters. The leaves are dense with a pointed end at first whole. Small cuts appear only in an adult plant. Despite the unpretentiousness, it is rarely grown in home floriculture.
Monstera thin - a very rare liana. She is small with tender openwork leaves. In young plants, they are heart-shaped, without cuts. In adults - pinnately dissected. The plant is undemanding, but grows very slowly.

Types and names of the flower in the photo

Monstera thin Monstera variegated alba Monstera adanson (pierced or full of holes) Monstera borsiga Monstera dubious (dubia) Monstera oblique (unequal-sided) Monstera delicacy (attractive and tasty) Monstera variegated marble Monstera pointed

Video: acquaintance with the variegated monstera

Conditions for creepers (table)

Season	Lighting	Humidity	Temperature
Spring and summer	Bright, diffused light. Can grow in partial shade. The best place for monstera is east or west windows. On the south side, you need to put the plant away from the window or shade, especially at noon. Otherwise, there may be burns, and the leaves will become pale. On the north - the light may not be enough. Then the leaves will become small, and there will be no characteristic cuts.	Moderate, at the level of 50-60%. In hot weather, spray the leaves with tepid water from time to time.	Moderate, 20-25 degrees. Does not tolerate drafts, sudden changes in temperature.
Autumn and winter	If the monstera is placed in a shady place, add artificial lighting. In the shade and with a short light day, the plant stops growing.	Moderate, not less than 60%. When kept warm, spray the plant regularly. The warmer the room, the more water procedures for monstera.	Moderate, slightly cold. Protect heating appliances from hot air, but do not allow cooling below +12. At temperatures up to +16, the plant hibernates and does not grow.

For creepers, the purity of its large carved leaves is very important. And if the dusty monstera is also sprayed, it will become a real spotted monster.

Why you need to dust

Dust closes the pores on the leaves, and this interferes with gas exchange with the environment.
It forms a film that slows down the process of photosynthesis.
Dust can contain and accumulate substances harmful to the plant.
It can hide traces of insect pests.

So rub monstera leaves regularly. It is better in the morning, so that the plant dries out before night. Wipe the leaves with a soft damp cloth. Before that, to facilitate cleaning, you can spray monstera.

For greater beauty, you can give the foliage a gloss. Polishing products are sold in specialized stores, it is better to take in aerosol packaging. If you do not want to use the drug from the store, try folk remedies.

Flower growers are advised to use beer, a weak solution of vinegar or milk for polishing. Arm yourself with a cloth, choose a polishing agent and proceed. Young tender foliage should not be touched. And polish adult leaves carefully, without pressing hard, so as not to injure. Such cleaning will make the plant not only attractive, but healthy.

Planting and transplanting monstera at home

For the active growth of beautiful leaves, Monstera needs nutritious and at the same time loose and porous, acid-neutral soil. Monstera soil mix options:

for 2 shares of sod land, one share of sand, peat and humus land each;
equally leafy earth, high-moor peat, split bark mixed with chopped moss and half a share of perlite or coarse sand;
ready-made shop primer for saintpaulias with the addition of perlite or coconut fiber.

Repotting a young plant

Young monsters need an annual change of the pot. They quickly gain green mass, so they grow out of old tank. Pot for young plant, who has not yet gained weight, it is not difficult to choose. Almost anyone will do, you just need to be guided by the rule: the diameter of the new container should be 2–3 cm larger than the old one. Liana does not need a too high or wide pot. Choose approximately the same height and diameter. Before planting, install a support for the monstera: sticks or a column.

Before planting, sterilize the soil substrate, drainage and pot.
At the bottom of the pot, pour a drainage layer (about 1/5 of the volume) (expanded clay, broken brick, gravel, perlite, foam plastic crumbs).
Carefully remove the plant from the old pot, being careful not to scatter the earthen ball.
Inspect the roots, if there are damaged, remove them.
Place an earthen ball in a new container in the center. Place a support nearby.
Fall asleep gently new ground and lightly tamp it down.
Water the plant, put on permanent place, spray.
Transplanting for monstera is stressful, and moist air will help to adapt.

Monstera is quite capable of getting along with other vines. For example, philodendron and scindapsus can become its neighbors. Growing in the same pot, they will make up an original ensemble. When choosing companions for the monstera, consider the features of their maintenance and care, they should be similar.

How to transplant an adult monstera

Adult creepers (over 4 years old) are recommended to be replanted every two years. The larger the volume of land, the larger the monstera will grow. For an adult plant, you have to take an extensive (about 20 liters) pot for growth. It can be 6–8 cm higher than the previous one. Preference should be given to ceramic containers. They are heavier and more stable, they will not roll over in such a massive plant. The pot must be wide so that the air roots of the monstera can reach the soil. Take care of the support for the plant in advance. It is installed during transplantation. Alone, transplanting a tall monster is unlikely to succeed, so find an assistant.

Before transplanting, water the monstera well so that the earth ball is completely wet and the roots become elastic.
Prepare and disinfect soil mix, drainage and pot.
At the bottom of the tank, pour a drainage layer and install a support.
Gently run a knife or spatula along the inner walls of the old pot to separate the overgrown roots.
If the roots have grown into the drainage holes, cut them off.
Get a monstera with an earthy clod from an old pot (you may have to stand on a chair for this, holding the plant by the stem, and your assistant will remove the pot).
Move the plant to new pot, install it in the center and gradually fill the distance between the walls and the earthen clod with soil, lightly tamp it.
Pour the soil around the circumference, wait for it to settle, and add more. But do not try to fill the entire pot to the brim, so that later it will be more convenient to change upper layer.

Every year the monstera transplant becomes more and more difficult. And instead, they only change the top layer (5–6 cm) of soil in a pot. V new land for nutrition, humus or other nutritional components must be added.

Stands and supports for indoor flower

In nature, the monstera finds its own support. Liana braids tree trunks, climbing higher towards the sun. It is held on the trunk, like tentacles, by aerial roots. At home, the grower should take care of the support for the monstera. Without it, it will not be possible to grow a harmonious and healthy plant. Heavy leaves will first tilt the stem, and then it will not withstand this weight and will break. Support will be needed when the monstera has not yet reached half a meter. If you notice that the stem of the plant has deviated from the vertical, it's time to take action.

Supports for creepers - sticks wrapped in coconut fiber - can be found in flower shops. But they don't the best way for monstera. The fiber does not retain moisture, and its layer is usually very thin. And for the monstera to be fixed on the support, it is necessary to grow into it with aerial roots.

Better support can be made by hand.

Hollow cut plastic pipe(select the diameter and length, commensurate with the size of the plant) drill holes - there are more holes along the entire length.
Install a pipe in a pot where you plant the monstera.
Through the top, pour expanded clay and sand into the pipe to the level of the soil, this is the prevention of decay.
Mix sphagnum moss with peat and fill the pipe to the top.
Wrap the support with moistened moss, and on top - thin plastic mesh with cells of 1-2 cm (mesh stockings can be used).
Fix the mesh with a strong thread or fishing line.
Plant the monstera next to the support.
Water not only the soil in the pot, but also the substrate in the tube through the top. Spray the support like you would the rest of the plant.

This design humidifies the air very well, allows air roots to receive moisture and keeps the monstera stem in an upright position.

You can increase the stability of the supporting structure for monstera. Make parallel holes at the bottom of the pipe and pass strong plastic sticks through them crosswise. Their length should allow the structure to be installed in the spacer.

In addition to the support described above, the monstera is often allowed to lean on pieces of furniture. But it's not very reliable. You can arrange fasteners (wooden lattice or strong twine) for the creeper right on the wall so that it weaves along it. But then it will be more difficult to care for the plant and you can forget about transplanting it. It is unrealistic to remove branched lashes from the wall. Some flower growers use a whole system of different supports. For example, a moss tube in combination with a wooden lattice, for weaving plants, on the wall. Monstera is placed between them, growing both along the wall and along the support.

By the way, delicate and miniature monsters: dubia, thin or oblique - will do without support, they can be grown as ampelous.

Monstera in the interior in the photo

Delicate monstera oblique grows well in the form of an ampelous plant. The support for this monstera is clearly rather weak, and it lacks the outer layer of moss, thanks to which the aerial roots will not bristle so much. green wall Large monstera cannot be grown without reliable support

Video: monstera transplant

Care: Do's and Don'ts

Caring for a properly growing monstera is easy. This giant creeper prefers to drink plenty of water, not too much food. And she will be glad to have a winter vacation and a timely haircut.

Watering and feeding

Most monsteras are fast growing vines. Therefore, in spring and summer, when greenery grows, they need good watering. The soil should only dry slightly on top between waterings. It must first be filtered, settled or boiled, and then cooled to room temperature.

In winter, the frequency and volume of watering is reduced. It is not necessary to dry the soil to a state of cracker, keep it slightly moist. The lower the temperature in the room where the monstera stands, the poorer the watering. Waterlogging leads to root rot.

Monstera is fed quite rarely, about once every three weeks. And only during growth. Can be used in liquid mineral fertilizers for ornamental plants. Prepare the solution twice as weakly as it says in the instructions. You can give the monster organic. Pour with a weak solution of mullein, but keep in mind: he has bad smell. Now there are also odorless fertilizers based on manure (Agrovit Kor).

Flowering at home

Monstera readily blooms in greenhouse conditions. At home, this is rare. Most flower growers agree that monstera requires more humid air than in an apartment for flowering. In addition, the plant usually receives a nitrogen supplement, which stimulates leaf growth and inhibits the formation of flowers.

But is it worth it to be upset if the monstera does not bloom, because this vine is valued for its openwork large leaves. And monstera flowers are not very good. They look like callas or spathiphyllums, only the cob is larger. And not everyone has the patience to wait for the fruit to ripen. It will be possible to eat a monstera berry only after a year.

Features of winter care

Monstera does not have a pronounced dormant period, it does not drop leaves, but simply stops growth with the onset of cold weather and a decrease in daylight hours. Monstera is ready to winter at a temperature of + 12–16. At this time, it is necessary to cancel top dressing and reduce watering.

If you give the monstera artificial light and increase the temperature in the room to +18, the monstera will come to life again. But to deprive her of respite is not at all worth it. Let the plant rest for at least a month.

Aerial roots and monstera formation

Overgrown aerial roots do not always adorn the monstera. But they serve to nourish and moisturize, so you should never cut them off. When spraying monstera, be sure to moisten the aerial roots. By the way, they can be disguised by gathering them in bunches, wrapped in moss or tied to a stem. If the monstera's support is a moss tube, the air roots will grow into it themselves, they will help the vine climb along the grate.

Over the years, Monstera slows down the pace of development. Then, for rejuvenation and stimulation, cut off the top of the vine. Be sure to sprinkle the place of the cut with coal. The operation is carried out in the spring, when the plant has not yet begun to grow. This gives impetus to the awakening of the lateral kidneys. And the top (it is necessary to leave 2-3 internodes on it) is rooted to get a new plant.

Monstera "cries", does not grow, turns yellow + other care errors (table)

Manifestation	Cause	elimination
Liquid drips from the edge of the monstera sheets.	Excess moisture in the soil. Too generous watering. Can "cry" before the rain - this is a natural phenomenon	Reduce and adjust watering. Dry the soil.
The leaves have turned yellow, brownish dry spots appear on them.	Insufficient watering, dry air.	Don't let the soil dry out completely. Water generously in spring and summer. Spray the plant regularly.
Leaves turn yellow and die.	Too warm and dry air. Especially in winter.	Remove monstera from heating appliances, moisten by spraying more often.
The leaves turn pale, lose color, become almost transparent.	Too much light, direct sun.	Remove the monstera to the back of the room, protect from direct rays.
The leaves turn yellow, cuts do not form.	Nutritional deficiency.	Feed the plant regularly during growth.
The leaves become thinner, like paper, turn brown.	The plant became cramped in the pot.	Check the roots of the monstera, if they are peeking out of the drainage holes - it's time to transplant the plant.

Diseases and pests (table)

Video: monster care

reproduction

Monstera can be grown from daughter shoots, stem and apical cuttings, as well as from seeds. The plant does not propagate by leaves or aerial roots. The daughter shoots that appear on the stem are bred from March to June, at the same time cuttings are carried out.

How to propagate by apical and stem cuttings

Cut short cuttings, this can be a tip with 2-3 internodes or pieces of a stem with 1-2 leaves. Make the top cut straight and the bottom cut oblique.
Powder the slices with crushed coal, dry.
Put drainage and about 2 cm of a mixture of peat and humus soil in a container, on top of 3 cm of sand (sterilize everything beforehand).
Plant cuttings. The node from which aerial roots grow must be buried halfway.
Cover the seedlings with glass or clear plastic.
Place in a warm (20–25°C) place with diffused light.
Moisten the plantings, preventing the top layer from drying out, spray about every other day.
After rooting, plant young monsters in separate pots.

Cuttings can be rooted in water. But this is not the best option for monstera. Roots accustomed to water do not adapt to the soil. The plant will get sick and grow new roots after planting in a pot.

Child (lateral) processes

On the monstera stem, select a layering - an escape with a leaf from which the strongest aerial roots come.
Wrap them with moistened moss, and loosely on top polyethylene film by creating a greenhouse on the plant.
Keep the moss moist by spraying it regularly.
Wait for the layering to grow its roots.
After about one and a half to two months, if the roots have grown, cut off the cuttings from the plant and plant them in a pot.

seeds

For sowing, take only fresh seeds, they do not store for a long time.

Wrap the planting material in a cloth and soak overnight in a solution of growth stimulants (Epin, Zircon).
V plastic bag put wet sphagnum moss, spread the seeds on top.
Place the bag in a warm (not lower than 25 degrees) place.
Moisten crops regularly.
In a month and a half, shoots will hatch.
Plant young monstera sprouts in separate pots.
Keep in a bright and warm room.
Seedlings develop slowly. At first, they will have uncut leaves. Only a year later, 3-4 true leaves will appear.

Video: seed monstera - a useful experience

Video: monstera description and propagation by cuttings

If this wonderful flower - monstera is located in your room, then be sure that the microclimate will improve, because it is known that the flower enriches with ozone, air ion and oxygen.

It is noted that it moisturizes the air very well. And also, the big advantage of the flower is that it absorbs a colorless gas - formaldehyde contained in chipboard, as well as in foam and so on. A positive effect has been noted when exposed to people with disabilities nervous system if there are problems with heart rhythm disturbance and headaches are present, and in this case Monstera will help.

It is recommended to put the monstera in places with a chaotic environment. Researchers say it absorbs the vibrations of disorder. To date, it is believed that Monstera is the most unpretentious and most common flower.

Monstera is considered to be the birthplace of Central America, or rather the "Jungle". Monstera leaves are leathery, beautifully dissected, dark green in color, with holes different shapes. In diameter, the leaves can reach 50 cm. It is recommended to grow monstera in the lobby and spacious offices. Monstera has adventitious roots, they can be attached to the wall as they grow, so the plant grows very quickly, it needs props. If you notice that aerial roots hang from a flower, then in no case cut them off, it is recommended to tie them up and point them down.

Lighting for monstera

Monstera is recommended to be placed in well-lit places. Light must be diffused. Avoid direct sunlight. So to speak, the sun negative impact on a plant. Monstera can grow without the necessary amount of light, only then will it stop growing. It is not recommended to place the flower in drafts or near drafts. It is also not recommended to twist the flower and rearrange it often. An excellent place for monstera will be partial shade.

temperature for monstera

For winter it is considered optimum temperature 16-18°C. In a comfortable, warm environment, the monstera flower grows rapidly, its leaves become large and patterned.

Monstera is recommended, regular uniform watering, but if for objective reasons you did not have time to water the flower on time, nothing bad will happen. If during watering you overmoistened the monstera flower, then soon it will begin to shed its leaves. This liana normally copes with dry air, but for its development it is necessary to spray its powerful leaves, and sometimes do bathing procedures. Leaves must be wiped from dust as they become dirty. In the summer season, watering is plentiful. V winter time watering is moderate. We look at the state of the flower itself. Watering directly depends on the humidity of the room where the monstera flower is grown. At any stage of watering, we make sure that there is no stagnation of water in the flower tray. Water for irrigation and spraying should be warm and not contain lime.

Soil for monstera

The composition of the soil (3:2:1) is peat, humus and sand. Also, if necessary, you can add sod or leafy land one by one. Another way to prepare the soil is (1:1:1:1) part of the sand, peat, garden soil and humus. You need very good drainage.

Monstera top dressing

In the warm season from April to August, during the active period of growth of the monstera flower, it must be fed once every two weeks.

Monstera inflorescence is an ear with a membranous veil, cream-colored in color. After about one year, purple fruits ripen in the plant, reminiscent of the taste of pineapple. Monstera flowers are snow-white, but they do not appear often.

It is recommended to transplant young monstera plants once a year, in spring, as young plants grow faster. But plants 3-4 years old can be transplanted twice a year. If your plant is older, it is recommended to remove the top layer of the earth and add a new, fresher one.

What pots should be for monstera? It is recommended for planting monstera to choose deep pots with a large diameter. Also, during a flower transplant, install a support. It is recommended to install an artificial trunk as a support. Its height is from 70 to 100 cm. You can buy an artificial trunk at any flower shop. It is recommended to wrap the trunk with sphagnum and fix it with wire. After that, always keep the moss moist.

Monstera diseases

On the leaves of the monstera we can observe a white cotton-like powdery coating - this tells us that this plant is affected by a mealybug.

monstera pests

The most common monstera pests are scale insects and.

When growing monstera, the following difficulties may arise:

If there is not enough light for the plant, then the trunk loses its leaf mass. It also stops the overall growth of the entire plant.
If a pest appeared on the plant - red spider mite, then soon they will divorce on the leaves brown spots, most often these changes occur on the underside of the sheet.
If the plant does not have enough nutrition, then its leaves turn yellow.
If the soil is waterlogged, then the leaves immediately react, begin to turn yellow, and eventually rot.
If the pot is cramped or the air is too dry, the leaves of the plant turn brown and become papery.
With an excess of sunlight, pale leaves and yellow spots appear.
Due to lack of sunlight, the stem twists, shoots stretch, new leaves grow small and pale.
If the soil is waterlogged, then droplets form on the leaves.

Monstera- a voluminous plant with large green dissected leaves, from a variety of tropical vines. It grows in the forests of America, Mexico, Brazil. Today, the flower is perfectly cultivated also in room conditions, through large sizes liana is often used for landscaping, hospitals, halls, large halls.

monstera attractive

Care rules

The plant is unpretentious, you will need a support, the role of which is played by a tube with moss. There are aerial roots on the vine, they should be tied to a support, directed to the ground, not cut off. should not be placed in aisles where drafts, the leaves will turn yellow or become brownish, then fall off.

Temperature. The recommended temperature regime is within +16 - +22 degrees, for some time the monstera can withstand small temperature fluctuations. Flower growth activity depends on temperature, at +10 the plant feels normal, but growth stops. As temperatures rise, the vine grows, and the leaves become large and carved, perforated.
Light. The direct rays of the sun adversely affect the liana, it must be placed in a shaded place or choose a corner with diffused light.
Watering. In spring and summer, monstera requires good soil moisture. It is necessary to take soft, settled water, water the top layer of soil completely dry. With the advent of autumn, moisture should be reduced, in winter it is recommended to water 2 days after the surface of the soil has dried.
Humidity. Monstera loves high humidity air. It is necessary to spray the room and the palm tree itself as often as possible, moisten the leaves, prevent dust from accumulating on them, wipe with a wet cloth. In winter, when it gets cooler, moisture should be reduced.
Priming. An earth mixture is suitable: earth, sand, peat and humus should be taken in equal parts. The soil must be well drained.
top dressing. Feeding is needed in spring and summer. They take fertilizers containing mineral and organic substances, top dressings used for indoor plants. You need to make it 2 times a month, this is enough so that the monstera does not stop its growth and development. Young plants do not need to be fed.

pruning

Monstera pruning should be done correctly, but not too often. In most cases, the pruning procedure is performed in order to form a crown. If the palm stretches strongly in height, you can cut upper part to encourage side shoots to grow. You should also cut off rotten and bad parts, if any.

It must be remembered that the aerial roots that grow on each leaf are not allowed to be cut.

The roots should be dug into the pot where the monstera grows, you can lower it into other pots with soil to improve the nutrition of the entire flower.

Transfer

The procedure for transplanting young individuals is carried out every year, it is enough for adults to transplant once every 3-4 years:

Before proceeding with the transplant, the monstera should be well watered. A very large pot is not needed, it is better to increase the capacity gradually.
A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pot, which can be used as coarse sand, crushed stone, pieces of tile. In the middle of the container, a support should be placed - bamboo or a stick wrapped in moss - sphagnum, which is fixed with twine. Moss contributes to the maintenance optimal level humidity and aerial root growth.
We prepare the earth mixture: turf, peat, sand in equal parts, humus - 2 parts.
Monstera should be removed from the pot and carefully, waddling, move it to a new container, setting the plant in the middle. It is necessary to sprinkle the roots of the palm tree with the prepared soil, fix the plant in a pot, tamp it down a little and add the remaining soil. After all that has been done, the vine must be watered.
The plant has received stress, after transplantation it will begin to take root, watering is not required for a week.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to breed monstera:

Diseases and pests

The plant can be attacked by pests:

Kinds

There are about 25 types of monstera in the world, of which only 2 are cultivated at home:

Monstera delicacy or delicious- This is a massive, liana-like plant. Leaves round shape, large, reaching up to 1 meter in size, petioles are long. Plant height can reach up to 20 meters. This species is characterized by a smooth stem with well-defined aerial roots. In adults, leaves are dissected or perforated. The fruits are edible and have a special taste. This is the original plant, requiring more high humidity air and good lighting.Monstera Borziga- one of the types of delicacy monstera, the palm tree is not so massive and powerful in size (the stem and leaves are 2 times smaller), it is appropriate for growing in small rooms.
Monstera oblique- a less common species than a delicacy. The plant has leaves 25 cm long, about 5-6 cm wide, light green in color, strongly dissected.

Home care for the monstera takes a certain amount of time, however, it perfectly greens the room. When caring for a plant, it should be remembered that its habitat is the tropics, so it is very important to provide the palm with suitable living conditions.