Making a woodworking circular with your own hands. Attaching the support legs

It’s hard to imagine a carpentry workshop without a circular saw, since the most basic and common operation is longitudinal sawing of workpieces. How to make a homemade circular saw will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

The machine consists of three main structural elements:

base;
sawing table;
parallel stop.

The base and the sawing table itself are not very complex structural elements. Their design is obvious and not so complicated. Therefore, in this article we will consider the most complex element - the parallel stop.

So, the rip fence is a moving part of the machine, which is a guide for the workpiece and it is along it that the workpiece moves. Accordingly, the quality of the cut depends on the parallel stop because if the stop is not parallel, then either the workpiece or the saw blade may become jammed.

In addition, the parallel stop of a circular saw must be of a rather rigid structure, since the master makes efforts to press the workpiece against the stop, and if the stop is displaced, this will lead to non-parallelism with the consequences indicated above.

Exist various designs parallel stops depending on the methods of attaching it to the circular table. Here is a table with the characteristics of these options.

Rip fence design	Advantages and disadvantages
Two-point mounting (front and rear)	Advantages:· Quite rigid design, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); Does not require the massiveness of the guide itself Flaw:· To fasten it, the master needs to clamp one end in front of the machine, and also go around the machine and secure the opposite end of the stop. This is very inconvenient when selecting the required position of the stop and with frequent readjustment it is a significant drawback.
Single point mounting (front)	Advantages:· Less rigid design than when attaching the stop at two points, · Allows you to place the stop anywhere on the circular table (to the left or right of the saw blade); · To change the position of the stop, it is enough to fix it on one side of the machine, where the master is located during the sawing process. Flaw:· The design of the stop must be massive to ensure the necessary rigidity of the structure.
Fastening in the groove of a circular table	Advantages:· Fast changeover. Flaw:· Complexity of the design, · Weakening of the circular table structure, · Fixed position from the line of the saw blade, · Quite a complex design for self-production, especially from wood (made only from metal).

In this article we will examine the option of creating a parallel stop design for a circular saw with one attachment point.

Preparing for work

Before you start work, you need to decide necessary set tools and materials that will be needed during the work process.

The following tools will be used for work:

Circular saw or you can use.
Screwdriver.
Grinder (Angle grinder).
Hand tools: hammer, pencil, square.

During the work you will also need the following materials:

Plywood.
Solid pine.
Steel tube with an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Steel rod with an outer diameter of 6-10 mm.
Two washers with an increased area and an internal diameter of 6-10 mm.
Self-tapping screws.
Wood glue.

Design of a circular saw stop

The entire structure consists of two main parts - longitudinal and transverse (meaning relative to the plane of the saw blade). Each of these parts is rigidly connected to the other and is complex design, which includes a set of parts.

The pressing force is large enough to ensure the strength of the structure and securely fix the entire rip fence.

From a different angle.

The general composition of all parts is as follows:

The base of the transverse part;

Longitudinal part

The base of the longitudinal part;

Clamp

Eccentric handle

Making a circular saw

Preparation of blanks

A couple of points to note:

flat longitudinal elements are made from, and not from solid pine, like other parts.

We drill a 22 mm hole in the end for the handle.

It is better to do this by drilling, but you can simply hammer it with a nail.

The circular saw used for work uses a homemade movable carriage from (or alternatively, you can make it “on a quick fix» false table), which you don’t really mind deforming or ruining. We hammer a nail into this carriage in the marked place and bite off the head.

As a result, we get a smooth cylindrical workpiece that needs to be processed with a belt or eccentric sander.

We make a handle - it is a cylinder with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 120-200 mm. Then we glue it into the eccentric.

Transverse part of the guide

Let's start making the transverse part of the guide. It consists, as mentioned above, of the following details:

The base of the transverse part;
Upper transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
Lower transverse clamping bar (with an oblique end);
End (fixing) strip of the transverse part.

Upper transverse clamping bar

Both clamping bars– the upper and lower ones have one end that is not straight 90º, but inclined (“oblique”) with an angle of 26.5º (to be precise, 63.5º). We have already observed these angles when cutting the workpieces.

The upper transverse clamping bar serves to move along the base and further fix the guide by pressing against the lower transverse clamping bar. It is assembled from two blanks.

Both clamping bars are ready. It is necessary to check the smoothness of the ride and remove all defects that interfere with smooth sliding; in addition, you need to check the tightness of the inclined edges; There should be no gaps or cracks.

With a tight fit, the strength of the connection (fixation of the guide) will be maximum.

Assembling the entire transverse part

Longitudinal part of the guide

All longitudinal part comprises:

The base of the longitudinal part.

This element is made from the fact that the surface is laminated and smoother - this reduces friction (improves sliding), and is also denser and stronger - more durable.

At the stage of forming the blanks, we have already sawed them to size, all that remains is to refine the edges. This is done using edge tape.

The edging technology is simple (you can even glue it with an iron!) and understandable.

The base of the longitudinal part

We also additionally fix it with self-tapping screws. Do not forget to maintain a 90º angle between the longitudinal and vertical elements.

Assembly of transverse and longitudinal parts.

Right here VERY!!! It is important to maintain an angle of 90º, since the parallelism of the guide with the plane of the saw blade will depend on it.

Installation of the eccentric

Installing the guide

It's time to attach our entire structure to the circular saw. To do this, you need to attach the cross stop bar to the circular table. Fastening, as elsewhere, is carried out using glue and self-tapping screws.

... and consider the work completed - a circular saw ready with your own hands.

Video

Video on which this material was made.

A circular saw is required in private households quite often, but it is not at all necessary to buy an expensive tool for this. You can make a circular saw with your own hands from available materials.

Basic materials and tools

To create a circular saw you will need the following materials:

pipe (45 mm);
channel;
corner “4” and “6”;
boards 30 mm wide;
metal sheet up to 8 mm thick.

The nodes you will need are:

engine;
bearings.

The work cannot be done without tools and materials:

jigsaw;
turbine;
screwdriver;
screwdriver;
scotch;
hammer;
wire cutters;
pliers;
tape measure and triangle ruler.

How to do it yourself?

You can make a circular electric saw for wood with your own hands from various devices. Eat important condition: Must have metal working skills.

From the Bulgarian

Making a homemade stationary circular saw at home is not difficult. First of all, you should decide on the project, draw a diagram and make a drawing. The differences between a stationary and tabletop DIY circular saw are the height of the base. Before assembling the instrument, you should think about creating a “table”. It is usually made of wood (board thickness - 3 cm) and covered with tin or aluminum sheet. Steel sheets up to 6 mm thick can also be suitable for these purposes. The cross members are made from angle iron (up to 80 mm).

The working disk protrudes beyond the table usually by 35%, that is, for a beam 120 mm thick, the diameter of the disk should be 370 mm, respectively. The power plant required will be 1000 watts (possibly more). If the workpieces are more massive, then a homemade circular saw may not “take” them. The emphasis is created from the angle “8” - this is a fairly massive and durable structure that can withstand quite significant loads. The stop extends beyond the table by 4-5 cm. One shelf is processed on both sides, the remainder in this case should be equal to the length of the table.

A very important component is the shaft - it is best to take it ready-made. If you have skills to work on lathe, then turning such a part is not very difficult. You will need to buy bearings with protection. It is better to use a V-belt pulley. A power plant from a refrigerator or washing machine can be used as an engine. Capacitors are usually made of oil and paper.

After you have managed to assemble the machine using available materials, you should test it without any loads. All elements must “get used to” each other in order to work as a single complex. During the testing process, some shortcomings may appear, they will need to be eliminated. For a homemade circular machine, a motor from a washing machine may be ideal.

Such power plants operate from a 220 volt network, they have good efficiency and an acceptable rotation coefficient. If you install a three-phase motor (it is powered by 380 volts), you will have to buy additional capacitors to reformat the unit to 220 volts. Sometimes units with gasoline engine– such power plants have good efficiency and are unpretentious during operation.

The most important element in a homemade unit there is a shaft. You can grind it yourself from a metal pig. It is not difficult to make such an element on a lathe. It is important to maintain the centering of the part so that there is no unnecessary vibration of the mechanism. Special grooves are machined on the shaft where the saw blade and pulleys will be attached. Sometimes recesses for attaching knives are also machined. The size of the saw blade itself is directly related to the power of the engine. The diameter should be 3.5 times the thickness of the product. There are also proven calculations: for 110 mm of material thickness, an engine power of 1 kW will be required.

Craftsmen often make a circular saw together with a jointer on the same base. In this case, both tools can work from the same engine. The jointer is capable of cleaning wooden surface to a mirror shine, its presence in combination with a circular saw is more than appropriate.

From a hand-held circular saw

From manual circular saw Assembling the circular is also easy. The sliding stop can be made from angles that are mounted on both sides of the rotating element (disc with teeth). The slot width is usually up to 5 millimeters. All edges must be processed so that they are slightly rounded. All corners are made with crossbars that should bind them tightly. You can use bolts and nuts as fastenings.

A metal clamp should be attached to the body. The screw tie is mounted at the bottom of the block. The clamp (thickness up to 2 mm) in conjunction with the rear pillar is a single unit that can withstand significant loads. The stop is fixed at the rear of the unit. The washers that create the gap can be moved by adjusting the size of the slot between the disk and the sides of the stop.

It is best to do the transmission using lino belts - if a foreign object gets in, then when jammed, such pulleys will slip, which eliminates the possibility of injury. A pulley with large sizes, a pulley with a smaller diameter is placed on the circular shaft - in this ratio the optimal number of revolutions is achieved.

From a chainsaw

To make a circular saw from a chainsaw, you will need a metal canopy that will be mounted to the body of the saw. The engine is already available, so making the unit will not be very difficult. You will also need two channels measuring 185x8000 mm. You will also need corners (55 x 100 mm) and two pieces of rails that turn with their soles up. Holes of 16 mm are drilled at the base of the sawmill, with a distance of one meter between them.

Ties are made from pipes (length - 255 mm). The structure is fastened with bolts. The racks are made separately; the sawmill body will be attached to them. It is important to ensure that all elements are not deformed. The distance between the posts should be no more than one meter. Then the sawmill is equipped with a movable carriage. It is made from a steel sheet 620x55 mm, corners are welded to the metal from below. Small bearings are mounted on the trolley. Two corners should also be welded at the top, and a chainsaw is attached to them. Then a holder is made that will work as a clamp for a beam or log.

You will need a pipe with a diameter of 45 mm. To work, you will need a hose that will be mounted at a given height, which should not be greater than the length of the pipe itself. This is how a sawmill is made. Such a unit can process timber or logs of any cross-section.

From a drill

Drill – universal tool, from which the following units can be made:

mini drilling unit;
lathe;
mower;
turbine.

Mechanics at service stations even make winches out of drills to lift fairly large loads. The drill is also actively used in construction, in particular in painting work. Farmers often use a drill to install seedlings in the ground. A circular drill will be compact. To create the tool you will need the following elements:

bases made of boards 2-3 cm thick;
vertical supports;
the shaft on which the disk is mounted;
electric drive in the form of a drill.

Instead of a board, you can also use chipboard sheets thickness of at least 30 millimeters. On such material you should cut a rectangle measuring 310x255 mm. Also for the desktop you will need a 5 mm thick duralumin sheet. This material is good because it has an acceptable stiffness coefficient and at the same time low weight. A hole measuring 165x12 mm is cut in the place marked with a marker.

You can also make the fasteners for the drill itself yourself. The assembly for the shaft with the saw can be easily found on any construction market. During operation, a lot of dust will arise, so you should look for a bearing with protection - this will significantly extend its service life. A circular saw from a drill is assembled according to the standard algorithm:

all main parts are attached to the base;
then the table is mounted;
the drill is connected, tests are done.

The equipment requires compliance with safety precautions:

the work area should be cleared;
the workpiece should work smoothly, without any delays;
the machine must be equipped with a protective screen;
garbage should not accumulate on the machine, it should be removed in a timely manner;
You should do a preventive inspection of the unit and lubricate it.

Such a mechanical device makes it possible to process not only wooden crafts. If you install good cutters, you can work with non-ferrous metals, PVC, chipboard, and bars.

Homemade devices

Making a circular saw is not that difficult; problems may arise when fitting the components. Choosing all the elements correctly so that they work flawlessly is an important task. The shaft must have self-adjusting bearings if the unit is used daily. It is best to select the bearings themselves with two rows of balls, which will be adjusted using a clamping nut.

The working surface must have a “grid” marking. Without this coordinate system, accurate woodworking is quite difficult. The protective casing should not be neglected - during operation it reliably protects the device from mechanical damage. A circular saw operates in different modes when working with different materials, so it is advisable to have a device that controls such a process. Several grooves should be made on the shaft so that the pulleys can be rearranged, thus changing the speed.

Parallel stop – necessary equipment for working with large workpieces. You can make them yourself from plywood, boards or chipboard. The stop size usually does not exceed 25 mm. The stop is attached using self-tapping screws or bolts.

When you have to saw bars or make several cuts from different directions, you need a stop that has a “P” configuration. At its base lies a board 30 mm thick. Sidewalls 12 mm thick are screwed to the base. Thus, the stop is installed on a beam, the size of which from the cutting point corresponds to the size of the cutting disc. On both sides it is pressed against the beam with clamps. If the beam is too massive, then it is rearranged and another cut is made.

There is also an edge stop that is in demand. To make it requires a lot of time and good qualifications of the craftsman. Be sure to make a diagram before starting work. This stop is made of plywood (20 mm), and the stop strip is also made from this material. Manufacturing phases:

longitudinal grooves for keys are cut;
the keys are mounted on a thrust strip;
Another groove is cut between the grooves made to secure the thrust strip;
another hole is made in the base, its size corresponds to the saw blade of a circular saw;

Sidewalls-limiters are mounted, and there must be clamps in order to securely fasten them. To place the emphasis on the workpiece, the bar moves in the grooves and is fixed through the slot with clamps. It is best to immediately attach a ruler or tape measure to the frame - this makes the work much easier. The pusher is convenient for working with small workpieces - it allows you to fasten the part on both sides, which ensures precision in work. It is also important to do:

elevator;
riving knife;
lifting mechanism.

If a three-phase motor (380 volts) is installed on the machine, then capacitors that can withstand a minimum voltage of 620 volts will certainly be required. These devices may be paper-based.

Capacitors are calculated according to the following scheme: per 1000 watts there are 100 uF for a working type capacitor. The capacity of the starting capacitor must be ordered twice as large. It should be remembered that the SB starting block is a device that automatically returns to its original position. This is very convenient, since literally a few seconds after the start you can begin the workflow.

you cannot work with wood that contains metal fragments (nails, screws, etc.);
marking the material is possible only with special clamps or substrates (this is especially true for long boards and timber);
boards and timber from two meters in length must be processed by two people;
when working with the disk, no sudden movements or jolts should be used, otherwise the device may jam or break;
if the material has dimensions of 42 cm or more, it is recommended to use a special pusher;
if the wood is heterogeneous (there are branches and knots), then it must be dissolved before work;
You should always use gloves: both during operation and when cleaning the unit;
Do not accumulate wood waste on the machine - this may cause a fire or short circuit.

The machine cannot be operated under the following circumstances:

no guide bar;
no casing;
the gap is too wide (from 10 mm);
there are no safety devices (raking cutter, holding fingers) that protect the worker from the workpiece falling off;
the height of the riving knife exceeds the height of the saw blade (from 6 mm), the distance of its installation (17-110 mm).

The machine must have a chip collector. Be sure to wear safety glasses while working. When changing elements on the machine, it must be de-energized.

To learn how to make a circular saw with your own hands, see the following video.

A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks in living conditions. In principle, it won’t be difficult to make a circular saw yourself even if you don’t have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. Required material You can usually find it in a garage or home workshop, and here a steel angle, a profile pipe rectangular section and engine. The assembled circular saw can be placed on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of one, you will have to build a table for the circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use a unit from an old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.

Manual device from an angle grinder

If you have a grinder on your farm, then you won’t find a better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Don’t despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes two segments in its design metal corner small cross-section located on both sides of the saw blade. Using bolts and nuts, the corners are connected from the front and back sides with a transverse ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.

It is necessary to put a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for a sliding stop, folded in half, is fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Next, you will have to make a couple of holes for bolts in the gearbox housing of the future circular saw, for which it is disassembled and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow for high-quality cuts, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.

The axial handle, which will be equipped with a grinder grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The shape of the design can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. ends metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are equipped with holes for fasteners. There's one here important point: the ends cannot be riveted to prevent the handle from bending during the operation of a circular saw assembled with your own hands. It is also necessary to make an adjustment rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet it a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. As usual, we adjust the uniformity of the gap with washers.

At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it is connected to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, a second one is screwed. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this device for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how you can convert an angle grinder at home into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular saw from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.

Mini table saw

The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing the horizontal segment into two equal parts, which after installation are fastened with clamps. A circular saw is fixed to the vertical part of the frame with a clamp. An assembled hand-held circular saw table can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and to process larger lumber you will need a more serious homemade circular saw, which will be discussed further.

Stationary machine

A circular saw, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, so before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything down to the smallest detail. In principle, a tabletop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or storage room, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary homemade circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and accessories for a circular saw of this type.

As can be seen from the picture, homemade circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings like the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before making a circular table, as well as mounting a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each part of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.

Circular table

A table for a hand-held circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes converted from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from beams or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering a table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating the base is at risk of abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of the cut will be uneven. It is better to make cross braces that strengthen the sawing table from a steel angle 60 - 80 mm with a horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side stop. The homemade table on which the circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a stationary position.

Saw blade

The toothed disk should rise above the surface of the table of the circular saw by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut the tree properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, the same parameter of the cutter should not exceed 350 mm, however, a motor with a power of 1 kW will also be required. For workpieces with a diameter of over 150 mm, a mini circular saw made by hand is unlikely to be suitable. At some factory circular machines a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closure of parts of the sawn workpiece, so it can also be very useful in the case when a homemade circular saw is assembled.

Adjustable side support

It is possible to install a high-quality stop from a steel angle with a cross-section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm greater than the thickness of the table. After installation, the emphasis is fixed on a homemade circular table in a given position using bolts. This element is adjusted according to a template placed between it and the cutter.

Shaft

The shaft installed on the circular saw is the most critical component, so its turning and testing together with the disk should be carried out exclusively by a specialist using special equipment. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is immediately excluded, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The optimal solution will be purchasing a ready-made shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings that have a curved inner surface, otherwise the unit you made yourself will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a homemade circular will become unusable.

Broadcast

In our case ideal option there will be a V-belt drive, but it is better to abandon the rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail suddenly gets caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will cause the disc to fracture, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually selected based on engine speed, always taking into account the permissible number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw wheel, the higher its rotation speed can be, and the cleaner the converted unit will cut.

Motor

Among homemade devices The most popular is a circular saw assembled from a washing machine motor. This choice is explained by the fact that its operating diagram the best way suitable for similar purposes. Unlike the commutator units that are usually supplied with power tools, the motor from a washing machine operates at lower speeds, which means that it shows more long work, has increased efficiency and is not so susceptible to various types of blockages. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and running capacitor, so it is more economical to make do with a device from washing machine. That, in general, is all the wisdom.

Stop for longitudinal sawing.

Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.

In general, any circular table is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws to the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. Cast material may crack.

There is another popular way to attach a circular table to a table without drilling holes in the base - attach it using clamps that fix the base, pressing it to the surface. Only this method did not seem to me to be correct enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of installation, and I did not use it.

Another important parameter manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you cut without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.

The disc sawed through to the top side of the tabletop. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The cutting depth is set on the circular saw itself. It’s convenient that the disc can be completely hidden in the table.

UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circular saws, it may turn out that the disk is at an imperceptible angle. And all the cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disk is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the original platform. If the disk is not at a right angle and it is not possible to set the ideal angle of the site, you can place several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving an ideal angle (you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)

Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now be turned on by the start button.

This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).

Of course, it is possible to saw without equipment, using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.

This structure, pressing against the edges of the table and aligned with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the sled against the rail, you can easily saw it at exactly 90 degrees. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.

You can even cut the strip like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.

Sleds solve only part of the problem. For longitudinal sawing you also need a side stop.

I glued together brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.

It grabs the edges with a death grip.

A circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made it from waste furniture board a simple pusher.

I have already managed to work with this table, sawing slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to do all this work than I did when sawing off with a hand-held circular saw.

In the future I will further improve this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing so that, when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will install a removable riving knife to which the disk protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I saw, the blade throws wood dust right in my face)
- I’ll finish the improved pusher. I have already started making a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about it in the future.

I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.

Availability in household the required minimum tool for simple work fully justifies the need to have a small box with the simplest tools in everyday use.

But when the need arises to carry out simple repairs or realize a long-standing dream of a small hobby, then the need arises to purchase or self-production a simple but very necessary carpentry tool - a stationary circular saw.

The practical use of this kind of tools varies from one craftsman to another, but one thing everyone agrees on is that such a machine is simply necessary in a household tool park.

In practical terms, a stationary circular saw is needed:

for longitudinal dissolution of wood;
not for trimming edges edged boards to obtain smooth sides;
to obtain planks, slats, and boards of equal size;
for selecting a part of the board (quarter) to create a tight connection of the boards into a shield.
In purely economic terms, a circular saw is simply necessary for cutting firewood from wood processing waste.

At the same time, if you approach the issue of machine equipment creatively and put in a little more effort, then the result can be a machine with a whole set of universal functions:

sawing;
grinding;
planing;
drilling;
tool sharpening.

As with reinventing the wheel, there is no definite answer; each individual case has its own path of search and discovery.

But, basically, when asked how to make a circular saw, craftsmen make attempts in several directions:

improvement of existing hand tools, adapting them as the main parts - an electric motor and a circular saw;
improvement of industrially manufactured tools to suit the specific application;
assembly of the machine from individual elements - shaft, motor, bed;
independent production of all parts of the structure, well, except for the electric motor.

Manual circular design

The simplest and relatively in an inexpensive way manufacturing stationary machine for cutting wood, you will need to convert a manual mounting circular saw into a stationary one. The essence of the modification is to create a standard model of a stationary bed and work table for an industrially manufactured sample.

This modification will allow you to attach the saw upwards with the tool frame, secure it to the work table, and thus use it as a small circular saw. The guide for cutting planks is made from a steel angle 25x25 mm, it is attached to the work table.

The frame itself is welded from corners 25x25 mm, taking into account that the largest standard size circular saw is 230 mm, then such a frame is enough to create a lightweight, portable but stationary saw, the main application of which is small work that does not require long-term electric motor voltage.

This use case is implemented in some models of domestic and foreign manufacturers of power tools, in which any hard surface is used as the base of the machine, and the mounting saw itself is attached to the base using clamps.

This option involves making the machine body from wood or an iron corner or profile pipe, taking into account that the placement of the tool will be in a desktop version. Since the base will be small, the use of such a tool opens up new possibilities. This woodworking machine allows you to carry out work in any convenient place.

The principle of creating such a machine is similar to how a hand-held circular saw is created - a body, a top plate, and a device for fixing a mounting saw or grinder, or in the case of using a grinder as a motor, are made for the base.

Separately, to maintain maximum safety, you need to provide a button to turn the power supply on and off for the tool, and a mechanism for locking the power buttons on the saw or grinder itself.

For ease of operation, it is recommended to make the guide bar with guides for fixing the stop into the base body, thereby increasing the reliability of fastening. For clamping here, it is recommended to use bolts with wing nuts, thus further creating ease of operation.

A feature of such a full-fledged circular saw is its full-size body, the ability to more accurately adjust the position of the saw, a more powerful engine and, accordingly, a longer operating time.

Making the stop and preparing the necessary holes

For a stationary saw intended for longer operating hours, the presence of a reliable stop for fixing the thickness of standard unraveling boards is an important and necessary condition.

The emphasis itself is made of metal or using a metal base and individual wooden parts.

The most acceptable option is to create a stop from a 100x100 mm corner, with metal plates of at least 5 mm thick welded to it with slots along the length. The length of the stop must be no less than the length of the working plate of the circular saw. The length of the plates must correspond to the width of the working surface of the stove.

Holes are drilled in the body through the work plate:

on the edge through the machine frame;
in the middle of the work plate.

The holes should form a regular rectangle with the vertices in the center of the holes.

The holes are necessary in order to inside machine, in these places, on strips reinforced with a strip of metal 5-6 mm thick, nuts were welded to fix the clamping bolts of the stop.

When making a stop and drilling holes, you need to take into account that the stop must be parallel to the plane of the saw.

Adjustment of the cutting depth or the height of the saw exit above the working plate is adjusted on the frame in two ways:

creation of a lifting mechanism for the working plate;
by creating an adjusting mechanism for raising and lowering the axis of the circular saw and the motor with a belt drive.

The plate lifting mechanism can be constructed by fixing the metal plate to the machine frame using long bolts. Lifting will be carried out by tightening the locking and fixing nuts on each bolt.

The second type of lifting mechanism can be represented as:

guides along which the carriage with the shaft and motor moves;
adjusting rod with fixing nuts;
handles with an applied adjustment scale.

The adjustment rod itself can be replaced with a standard one metal pin threaded. This option is even more profitable than inventing new methods.

The adjustment handle can be made by welding a metal plate to the end of the stud. At a distance of 4-5 mm from the center of the plate, aligned with the center of the stud, holes are drilled for self-tapping screws.

For ease of operation, a rod is welded to the end of the plate in such a way that the entire structure can be rotated using it.

As a scale, you can use a round washer made of multilayer plywood or plastic - it is put on a pin and fixed, on the one hand, with self-tapping screws, on the other hand, it is pressed with a nut.

Having assembled the entire lifting mechanism, a scale corresponding to a certain lifting height of the working plate is applied experimentally to the plywood.

For comfortable work with machines, it is necessary to provide, in addition to the already mentioned elements, others, tools and devices necessary for normal operation:

on work plate for convenience, it is recommended to apply a centimeter jackal, “0” of which corresponds to the side of the saw blade;
To protect against accidental chips and splinters, it is recommended to install protective screen made of transparent plastic;
to make cutting easier, when additional force is needed to press the board, it is recommended to consider installing a pressure roller or wooden pressure plates;
To facilitate the work and prevent the board from falling back, it is necessary to install thrust plates.

To correctly and reliably connect parts and create a rigid structure capable of withstanding heavy loads, you will need:

tools:
grinder with cutting wheels;
welding machine;
hammer;
drill with a set of drills;
marking tool - tape measure, meter, square, scriber, core;
consumables – electrodes, metal brushes;
clamps, vices
materials:
metal corners or profile pipe;
metal sheet for the work plate;
bolts, washers, nuts, studs;
metal strip;
hardwood boards;