Greetings, my hand-assed people!
Today I will teach you how to competently and correctly assemble the door frame .
The assembly process cannot be called complicated and can be done by yourself, without the help of craftsmen.
Doors are not just a piece of carpentry, they are also an independent interior decoration that will bring aesthetics, warmth and comfort to your home. We will talk about interior doors, the presence of which will allow you privacy and reduce noise levels. And in order for the doors to retain their functional load for as long as possible, they need a high-quality assembled door frame.
The main errors during assembly can be incorrectly taken dimensions and violation of sawing angles. It is important to understand that such “jambs” cannot be corrected - you will have to spend money on purchasing additional parts. Of course, cracks and minor defects can be covered with a wax pencil or other special tools. means, but due to distortions, the load in the door frame will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to a significant reduction in service life door leaf.
Assembly work door frame must be carried out with special care and attention. It is required to strictly observe the dimensions of the gaps and do not forget to leave allowances for the width of the cut.
Well, you’ve “created horror” - now you’ll take the money to the specialists :) In fact, everything is not so scary - follow my tips and everything will work out for you!
Door frame components
First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the structure of the interior door frame:
- the hinged beam is the part on which the door is hung
- the false beam is the part that meets the door. Into her.
- lintel - upper “ceiling” beam
- threshold - lower part
Thus, in order to assemble the door frame, you need to correctly connect all its parts. But before you start, you need to decide on the sizes and choose suitable material. Doors should look aesthetically pleasing and...
Choosing material
I don’t have a definite answer here, since the choice depends on your preferences and budget. I will give examples of the most common materials used for door frames.
MDF doors
MDF is a wood fiber board. The doors are cheap, but they look good. The advantages include lightness and environmental friendliness. The disadvantages are reduced impact resistance, poor noise insulation and short service life.
Laminated solid wood
Glued board or "euro-timber".
These doors are not made of solid wood, but of glued together high pressure parts. The joints on them are practically invisible. The doors are quite durable and cost a little more than MDF. Price and quality are acceptable.
Solid wooden doors
Doors are much more expensive than glued ones. Strong and durable. The disadvantage is incorrect processing by the manufacturer, as a result of which the wood is excessively saturated with moisture.
Doors made of chipboard and fibreboard
Wood-fiber or wood-pressed boards. These doors are very cheap as they are made from leftover material. The advantage of these doors is good mechanical strength and fairly good sound and sound insulation. The disadvantage is low moisture resistance, as well as the presence of a volatile substance in the glue, which has a detrimental effect on health. Another aspect is the complexity of installation, since the screws in such doors do not hold well.
In addition to those described, there are also plastic, glass, aluminum, and veneered ones. Doors with honeycomb filler, laminated, etc.
The choice of material is up to you, but it should be appropriate and practical.
Tool
To assemble the door frame we need the following tool:
- Sharp pencil
- Construction tape
- Building level
- Construction corner
- Screwdriver or screwdriver
- Miter saw, or miter box with a hacksaw for metal or “fine-toothed”
Proper sizing is the key to success!
The standard sizes of door leaves are
- height 2000 mm
- width 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm and 900 mm
All other sizes that go beyond the scope are usually custom-made items. (I mean single canvases, not swing ones)
You need to add 70 mm to the size of the door leaf - this is the standard width of the door frame. If the dimensions of the door frame are different, then the size will naturally change up or down. And we also add 6 mm - this is the technological gap between the leaf and the door frame.
Now you need to check how the door frame fits into the doorway. If it needs to be expanded, then we are not in a hurry to break everything at once. We soberly assess the situation - we may have to strengthen the opening with lintels. If you need to reduce the opening, then we fill it with bricks, or “sew on” bars - it all depends on the situation.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
To help you understand what size doorway is needed, look at the formula:
Door leaf size + door frame size + 6 mm tech. gap + 60 mm (30 mm on each side for mounting foam and wedges that will be needed when)
Usually sizes doorways are controlled at the construction stage, but in old private houses (like mine) there are “severe” discrepancies.
The next important dimension is the gap from the floor to the door leaf. Before calculating it, you need to check the level of the floors for the width of the door “swing”.
You can do this in two ways:
- Using a hydraulic level
On the side walls of the opening we place marks at the same level. We measure the distance from each mark to the floor plane. The difference that you get when measuring should be added to the minimum height of the posts so that when opening the door does not rest on the floor. If you still “miss” this moment, then you can eliminate it only by trimming the door leaf, and this is still a “handjob” :(
2. Using a laser level
If you are the happy owner of a laser level, then everything becomes much simpler. We set the level and, using a construction square, determine the curvature of the floors. The obtained values are taken into account when setting sizes.
Minimum clearance make 10 - 15 mm, depending on what flooring planned. But it is better to immediately lay linoleum, or carpet, or, and then carry out the installation.
See the table of correspondence between door blocks and openings.
And here is another table of typical door frame sizes
Assembling a door frame without a threshold
Let's look at assembling a door frame with your own hands using an MDF frame as an example. We will connect the upper parts at 45°, as this is the most aesthetic way.
1.First of all, you need to trim the parts of the box. This is done in order to eliminate irregularities or manufacturing defects.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
If you have to use hand tools, then it is better to use a fine-toothed saw or a hacksaw. Start making cuts from the veneer side so that chips, if any, remain on the invisible side.
2. We “saw” the loop beam and the vestibule at 45°. It is best to do this with a miter saw, but if you don’t have one, you will have to work with a miter box. To avoid unevenness when cutting, the miter box must be secured. We use a hacksaw with a fine tooth.
3. Next we move on to the most difficult part - “sawing” the top of the box - the lintel. You need to clearly set the size and not miss the corners. You can use a tape measure, but there is an easier way. To do this, we apply the lintel to the top of the door and mark the marks “in place” with a sharp pencil. To maintain the technological gap, you can use packaging cardboard - its width is just 3 mm.
4. Mark the height of the loop and false beams. I told you how to find out the required height a little higher. This is the height of the door leaf + the top gap of 3 mm + the bottom gap. If the floors are level, then 10 mm is enough. When opening, the door leaf should not catch or rest against the floor. You should not create a very high gap - 10 - 15 mm is enough for normal air circulation. If the room is damp, then larger values are allowed.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
If there is a difference where the doors are installed and there is no way to correct it, then the height of the racks may be different. The highest point of the difference is taken as zero.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
We constantly and meticulously check all the applied dimensions before washing down. If the box turns out to be smaller than the canvas, you will have to buy a new beam.
5. After all the components have been sawed down, we assemble the MDF door frame together, having previously drilled holes with a drill of a smaller diameter to prevent the frame from splitting. For connection we use 50 cm wood screws. It is more convenient to carry out work on the floor, placing cardboard or other material under the box.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
When you tighten the door frame, press its parts as tightly as possible, since the screws will stretch them.
Well, this is approximately the result you should get.
How to assemble a door frame at 45° and without a threshold - video
Assembling a door frame with a threshold
The easiest way to assemble. The fact is that the threshold is usually mounted at 90°.
The threshold is mounted on the entrance or “entrance” doors, separating the cold room from the living room. In addition, the threshold gives the door frame additional strength.
Preparing the doorway and checking the floor level are absolutely identical to assembling without a threshold, but further steps have their differences.
So here you go step-by-step instruction for assembly:
1. File the lintel to its original dimensions. The length of the lintel will be equal to the length of the door leaf + 6 mm for the gap. You need to make two such blanks - this will be the threshold. Do not forget to trim the workpieces, since the factory cut may not be even.
2. On loop and bevel beams, it is necessary to remove the thrust quarter.
To do this, we connect the end of the vertical post and the horizontal one and put a mark with a sharp pencil.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
The size must be transferred with maximum clarity so that there are no gaps. Repairing them in the future is not problematic, but it will ruin the aesthetic component of the doors.
We make a cut to a depth of a quarter with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Be extremely careful not to touch the work surface. On MDF doors It will not be possible to fix the “jamb”.
Then, using a chisel or a utility knife, carefully remove it. We repeat the operations for all angles.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
If you use a chisel, then under no circumstances turn it over with its top sharpened side down. When carrying out work, the working part will crash into the material and all the work will go down the drain. The same rule applies when inserting loops.
3. Connect the box. We also drill holes and tighten them with self-tapping screws. The only difference is that galvanized screws are used for the threshold, if it is a threshold front door. They are less affected.
Assembling a door frame with a threshold - video
Door frame tenon connection
One way to assemble door frames is finger joint. It's not as common as 45° and 90° assemblies, but it does exist.
The joining of parts occurs through tenon joints (see picture)
Usually the achieved rigidity is quite sufficient, but galvanized nails can be added to enhance the strength characteristics.
Mistakes when installing and assembling the door frame are laughable, and that’s all!
Conclusion
Well, that's all, friends.
In this article I told you how to correctly assemble a door frame and I really hope I succeeded.
Follow my instructions and you will succeed!
Upon purchase new door the buyer receives a far from finished structure for installation. It does not have places to install hinges, and the locks are not embedded. The buyer has an inevitable question - how to collect
You can use the services of professionals or install the structure yourself. To do this, you need to prepare tools and study the features of the technology.
Doors on the market are mainly sold complete with a frame, but sometimes they need to be matched to each other.
For the most part, new doors do not fit into old frames, either in size or style. In this regard, it is necessary to completely change the previous design.
Selection of door frame material
Nowadays, the market is dominated by products with an impressive appearance and a low price, for example, made from MDF - a composite of compressed fibers.
How to assemble a door frame from MDF so that it lasts no worse than a wooden structure? The new material has many advantages, but here it is important to dwell on the disadvantages. Despite its great strength, the box may become deformed if it is heavy. In addition, in humid environment MDF panels can peel off and also swell, leading to a violation of the geometry of the opening.
Despite the shortcomings, affordable price, good mechanical properties and a wide range of MDF parts make them a priority even when completing premium doors.
Required Tools
Before assembling the door frame, you should first prepare the tools:
- hammer;
- set of chisels;
- roulette;
- square;
- or with fine teeth;
- plumb level;
- dowels, screws, hinges;
- miter box - a tool for making cuts at certain angles;
- screwdrivers.
The work is greatly facilitated if you have a power tool: a screwdriver, a jigsaw, an electric drill, a hammer drill, a router.
Preparing the doorway
It is important to choose the right door according to the width of the opening, so that later there will be less work by fit. The minimum gap should be at least 15 mm on each side.
Before installation, check the evenness of the opening. It is measured in several places vertically and horizontally.
How to assemble a door frame interior door, if the opening is too large? To do this, planks of the required width are packed around the perimeter or the space is filled with bricks.
Other options are glazing the opening, making a frame from wood or metal and covering it with plasterboard.
Door frame components
The box is made of timber and consists of fragments:
- loop beam and porch;
- lintel (top beam);
- threshold.
Thus, in order to assemble a door frame (it is equipped with a threshold only for a heavy leaf, which is used mainly at the entrance to an apartment), it is necessary to correctly connect its component parts.
Thresholds are rarely installed for interior doors.
Door frame assembly methods
Assembly is carried out extremely carefully so as not to damage decorative coverings. Even one minor chip or scratch spoils appearance designs.
To install doors in frames, hinges are required. IN interior designs Two are enough, and a third is often installed for the entrance.
The main difficulty in assembling the box lies in the correct execution of cuts and connecting the horizontal beams with the vertical ones. Their profiled structure creates difficulties for beginners. The installer must fit all elements exactly to size. Before assembling the door frame, you should choose an installation technology. The beam is attached in several ways.
Tenon connection
The most durable and reliable, but at the same time the most complex, is the tenon joint. To do this, grooves and ridges are made at the junction of the beams along their thickness. Here you also need the ability to use it. The connection is made without fasteners, but many craftsmen make additional reinforcement with galvanized nails.
It is not so important on which part to make a groove or tenon. In any case, a rigid connection is ensured.
A milling cutter is a tool for professionals and it is not advisable to purchase it to install even several doors. When we assemble the door most in an accessible way is docking at an angle of 45 0 or 90 0.
Even a beginner can do the assembly at right angles if he performs all the operations correctly.
How to assemble a docking box 45 0
At the junction of the horizontal and vertical beams, cuts are made. Measurements are taken several times in advance so as not to make mistakes in the calculations. It is especially necessary to adjust the horizontal beam precisely in order to correctly select the gap of 3-4 mm and the width of the door. The racks can subsequently be sawed off from the bottom after assembling the box, since they are made with a margin of length. After cutting, the surfaces to be joined are leveled with a chisel.
The timber is usually fastened with self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 0 . To prevent the wood from splitting, holes are made under them with a drill, the diameter of which should be smaller than that of the self-tapping screw core. The drilling depth is made less than the length of the fastener so that the connection is reliable. One joint requires two screws on one side. You can add another one in the middle, on the other side of the corner.
How to assemble a door frame with a docking 90 0 yourself
The assembly method is best for beginners. First of all, the door leaf is measured for compliance rectangular shape. It is often observed that one of the sides is slightly different in size from the other. This deviation must be taken into account when sawing the racks. The cuts from the ends of the timber are also checked, which must be strictly at an angle of 90 0. Workpieces may arrive from the factory with an uneven cut.
The connection of the horizontal strip with the vertical ones is also made with self-tapping screws.
Checking the correct connections
The test is carried out by placing the box on a flat horizontal surface and placing the door leaf on top of it. If it fits in with a small gap, then the assembly was done correctly.
The lower ends of the racks are filed down, as they should rest against the floor. The horizontalness of the floor covering is preliminarily checked. doorway. Deviations should be taken into account when sawing off the posts.
Important! The blanks are cut from the veneer side to prevent its peeling.
Installing hinges
Before that, you need to choose the side where it will open. Depending on this, loops are selected certain type- right or left. The fabric for fastening the hinges is chosen to be more massive, without defects and cracks. The location of their installation is marked at a distance of 15-25 cm from the door end. The canopies are separated into a large part for the frame and a small part for the door leaf. Then the loop is applied to the end of the door and outlined with a pencil, and then with a knife. The markings on the box are done in the same way. In this case, the door leaf is placed against the frame and the marks for the hinges match.
The edges of the door leaf and hinges are aligned, avoiding distortions. The hinges should face the direction the door opens. When marking, it is unacceptable to confuse the top and bottom of the door. This determines how it will be installed after securing the hinges. If the door has glass, their location should also be taken into account.
Using a chisel and hammer, cut out a place for the hinges to a depth of 3-5 mm so that they fit flush with the wooden surface. Fittings for fittings are made with extreme care and precision. Then the loops are applied, the screws are marked and screwed in. The marks should coincide with the centers of the holes so as not to split the wood when screwing in the fasteners. To prevent the loops from tightening with self-tapping screws, the pencil marks are additionally marked with an awl.
By applying a ruler, the correct fit of the loop is checked. When protruding, the platform underneath it deepens, but not more than the required level. If the hinges are installed correctly, the doors should open 180 0. The load on the door should not exceed the specified value. Usually it is 50 kg.
Installing a frame in a doorway
The work does not end with the points describing how to properly assemble a door frame. It still needs to be installed so that the door opens and closes well. To do this, the box is carefully placed in the opening and temporarily secured with pieces of packaging cardboard or polystyrene foam. The level checks the verticality of the loop beam. Then sliced wooden wedges.
They are installed under the hinges. These parts are also clogged in the upper corners. To prevent the box from moving, two wedges are driven in from opposite sides with sharp parts overlapping each other. The positions of the sidewall and lintel are checked with a level, since displacements are possible during wedging. The box should be positioned flush with the room wall. The wedges should not protrude outward.
Questions of how to assemble and install the door frame, as well as hanging the door leaf, are resolved together, since everything is a single structure.
The door frame is attached to the wall with dowels at the hinge locations. Wedges are also located there to prevent deformation of the beam. The pretend side is not yet exposed.
To make the exposed elements of the box more stable, they need to be partially foamed. The surfaces are pre-cleaned and moistened with water, which increases the adhesion of the foam by an order of magnitude.
Hinges are attached to the door leaf, after which it is installed on the lining in the doorway. Then the door hinges are attached to the frame beam: first from above, then from below.
The door is closed and the porch is set using wedges. When all the gaps are set, you should foam the box around the entire perimeter. It is recommended to install spacers in it to prevent swelling of the parts.
Conclusion
In the presence of necessary tools You can install the doors yourself. To do this, the most important thing is to figure out how to assemble the door frame. If you perform all installation operations correctly and consistently, everything will work out.
Build process door frame implies not only the presence of the box itself, but also certain tools and devices necessary for its installation, namely: building level; hammer; measuring tape; chisels; hacksaws; screwdriver or screwdriver; self-tapping screws
The process itself is not complicated. For success, you only need to know its constituent elements and assembly methods.
It consists of three structural components: a lintel or top beam; loop timber; porch. There are several ways to connect these parts.
- The first method is a finger joint. Its essence is to file the tenons on the elements of the box and then align them with the corresponding grooves on the opposite segment.
- The second method is to connect elements by sawing down parts door frame at an angle of 45 0 or 90 0. Most simple option assembly at an angle of 90 0 is considered.
Before starting work, the surfaces to be joined must be leveled using a chisel and secured with self-tapping screws. We mark the holes for them and disassemble the elements to install the hinges.
Installing hinges on the door frame.
It is necessary to mark the preliminary location on the timber door hinges . We find it by attaching the hinges to the door leaf. The position of the lower loops is determined after joining the upper ones. Only after completing these steps can you insert and fix the canopies.
Let's start the process door frame assembly. Using the previously marked holes, we connect the hinge and lintel beams. This step must be carried out on a flat, hard surface, such as the floor. All elements of the door frame are connected with self-tapping screws. After connection, the box is carefully inspected for defects. If there are none, begin installing the door frame in the doorway.
Fixing the door frame in the wall opening.
Herself installing a door frame in an opening, represents a certain sequence of actions. Before starting installation, we completely dismantle the previous box. After this, for subsequent installation it is necessary to prepare the surface of the wall opening. If the installation is carried out directly into the opening in the wall, we create a rigid and reliable base for the box. For this purpose in the corners assembled structure We nail small narrow wooden planks. If there is no threshold, this is not a problem; to do this, the lower part of the opening is temporarily secured with a bar of the required size.
Today door frame installation carried out using polyurethane foam. By using preliminary fixation with anchor bolts, additional reliability of the structure can be achieved. This will ensure greater safety for the interior door and increase its service life. In general, the installation process looks like this:
Door frame assembled installed in the wall opening and fixed with wooden wedges. When installing, you must use a building level. After leveling, the box is attached to the wall. At least three holes are drilled in the bars located vertically, and corresponding recesses are made in the opening. After this is completed, the box is screwed to the wall.
Pay special attention to ensure that between installed door frame and there were no voids in the wall. They are filled with polyurethane foam, the working surface of the door is protected from penetration of polyurethane foam with masking tape.
When using polyurethane foam, pay attention to the fact that when it hardens, it increases in volume by up to 50%. If this is not taken into account, you may end up with unwanted door frame deformation.
Prevent the above Negative consequences You can use additional spacers for the door frame. Wooden wedges are suitable for this purpose and must be placed around the entire perimeter of the structure. 24 hours after installation polyurethane foam hardens and the spacers can be removed along with excess foam. After this, it is necessary to install platbands.
Therefore, assembly and door frame installation- a simple process. By following the correct sequence of actions and following the above steps, you can independently and efficiently install an interior door.
Sooner or later, every apartment owner has to face a problem overhaul, during which it will be necessary to replace door frames for interior doors. The task of installing a door frame into a doorway does not require any specific carpentry skills, the main thing is attention and accuracy in work.
How to install a door frame, sequence of operations
Any work on replacing door frames begins with studying the width and condition of the walls, the old door and the opening. Often the walls themselves, brick and concrete require cosmetic repairs, finishing and restoration of plaster, therefore, before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to remove the trim and restore the integrity of the brickwork.
The procedure for installing the door frame of an interior door is simple, and its implementation requires several simple operations:
- They remove the door and saw it hand hacksaw loot in width and carefully disassemble old box, clearing the doorway;
- Measure the width of the doorway in at least four places. If you plan to install a new door of greater width, you will need to trim the vertical walls of the opening using a grinder and a hammer drill. But this must be done extremely carefully so as not to break brickwork;
- Measure the exact width and height of the new door. Measure the required dimensions of the doorway on the wall, taking into account allowances for the thickness of the boards and the width of the gaps. The total width of the opening will be determined as the width of the door frame of the interior door plus 25 mm per side for mounting elements and foam;
- Mark the timber or board purchased for assembling the frame, file the joints on the jambs, pre-sew them with self-tapping screws and try them on the new door. Install the frame in the doorway, check the width and secure with self-tapping screws and foam.
Advice! If you are not completely confident in your skills and precise understanding of how to install and fasten a door frame, you can take part in the process of replacing a door frame with neighbors or friends, do a test cut with your own hands, or watch a video, for example:
Which door frame option to choose
Factory-made interior doors are often produced and sold with a set of door frames of standard width in disassembled form. This option saves you from having to select the width of the frame yourself, but there is no guarantee that the door frame is assembled correctly. Therefore, often a door of the required width is purchased separately, and a board or fiberboard-MDF boards are purchased separately. Standard dimensions of door frames - thickness and width of doors are shown in the table:
In addition, when choosing the size of the material for building a door, it is necessary to take into account that the thickness of the door frame of an interior door is a standard value, but the width of the walls, even within the same apartment, can vary greatly. Therefore, for each interior door you have to check the width of the doorway, draw up your own passport with the dimensions and, if necessary, buy additional elements that allow you to expand the width of the door to the width of the walls.
For making loots or door frame the desired width is most often used:
- Ready-made profile made of pressed fiberboard or MDF;
- A profiled pine board of suitable width, the surface of which is sanded to a laminate quality or covered with a polymer film.
If you have a choice, use profiled boards from coniferous species wood This material has good workability, high strength, and does not absorb moisture like pressed materials made from paper and wood fibers.
For your information! A self-tapping screw screwed into wood according to the rules will provide 100% of the connection strength; a similar fastener for pressed paper provides 30% of the design strength of the fastener.
In addition, a pine frame will allow you to install heavier doors, for example, from MDF, glass or solid wood. Wood-fiber materials are suitable only for the lightest cardboard structures.
We install a door frame of standard width
Before cutting the vertical and horizontal elements of the box, you need to decide on the method of connecting the boards or timber into one structure. The most durable and easiest to manufacture is the tongue-and-groove joint. To do this, cut out two blanks of vertical posts - the hinged and recessed parts. To the calculated length of the rack it is necessary to add twice the thickness of the workpiece. In a similar way, mark and cut out the lintel beam. On the lintel using a drill and a hacksaw, tenons are cut out at both ends; on the vertical posts, the lintels are marked along the finished tenons and the mating part is cut in the form of grooves. The threshold is made in the same way.
If the width of the wall is greater than the thickness of the box, the boards are built up with additional elements, as in the diagram.
If the width of the opening in the wall larger size box, in this case, an additional piece of timber is sewn onto the outer part of the beam, from the side of the loop or hinged beam, as in the diagram. If the width of the opening is too large, the front part of the box is also supplemented in a similar way.
On the side, the holes are made on the door leaf laid horizontally. After adjusting all the parts and aligning the corners of the box, the joints are glued and connected with carpentry screws. To preserve the resulting geometry of the door, the structure is sheathed with wooden planks - spacers, carefully removed from the door leaf and installed in the doorway.
Door frame installation
The chute will be installed correctly if every movement or alignment is controlled using a building level. Due to its low rigidity, the structure “plays”, so immediately after installation, the box opening is slightly wedged with thin wooden blocks. To prevent the sidewalls and ceiling beams from being squeezed into the frame, use a pair of wooden spacers, as in the photo.
The box is pre-aligned according to the readings of the level gauge and notches are made on the walls; in the future, they will help to quickly restore the previous position of the box. Wooden structure we attach it to the wall using long self-tapping screws; for heavy doors, you can use anchor fastenings.
On the ceiling and vertical posts, use an electric drill to drill two thin holes, 0.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. Next, we remove the loot, punch holes according to the drill marks on the walls and install dowels under 6-millimeter self-tapping screws.
We return the loot to its place, insert the screws and tighten it by 10-15 mm. After this, using a level, we restore the correct position of the box and screw in the fasteners to the full length. We fill the gap between the timber and the wall with foam.
Conclusion
Before the foam hardens, it is necessary to once again check the position of the door frame according to the building level data, and, if necessary, carefully knock in the place of deviation. After the polyurethane foam has gained half its hardness, you need to tighten the screws again and close the caps with decorative caps. After installing the canopies, we attach the platbands.
Wide selection of interior doors offered modern manufacturers– by color, material, texture – big advantage when choosing suitable model. But one problem often arises: choosing the right box size. Measuring a doorway is not as simple as it seems, and assessing the properties of a product also has its own subtleties.
Peculiarities
The majority of doors are made standard, but it is important to take into account that there are no clearly prescribed frame sizes for interior passages. It is recommended to select the box in such a way that the entire structure can fit harmoniously into the opening. In terms of height and width, it is recommended to take a set slightly (within three centimeters) inferior to the opening.
Largest standard size boxes width - 90 centimeters, but you can’t find such a model in every manufacturer’s catalog. Indeed, in multi-storey and modern private houses, openings of a suitable size are very rare. The widest doors can be found in “Stalinist” buildings, as well as in large office centers.
Door frames and leaves produced abroad are made to completely different standards, so you need to choose them carefully!
Frames for doors that do not have thresholds are made in the shape of the letter U, from a pair of wooden posts connected at the top by a crossbar. The advantage of such solutions is their compatibility with sashes of very different heights and their low cost. Rectangular frames, which initially have a threshold, are needed by those who want to install the entire structure as simply and quickly as possible. It is recommended to choose telescopic trims , because products with them will be easier to rearrange during a major overhaul.
Dimensions
The parameters of a particular room are also taken into account - how large it is, what it is intended for. The most common type has dimensions of 88x205 cm in two planes, with a width of 80 cm - such blocks are suitable for both apartments and offices. For kitchen openings you should use boxes measuring 65x200 cm, and for a bathroom or combined toilet 60x200 cm. Even if the size of the entrance to such rooms allows, many people still choose narrow boxes, making up for the missing centimeters by adding extras.
Width
Typical width ranges from 50 to 90 centimeters. The parameters of a particular room are taken into account - how large it is, what it is intended for. It is customary to make the widest openings in living rooms so that all guests can pass through unhindered. The gap between the walls is 122 cm, and the door frame is then 119 centimeters wide and 193 centimeters high.
For multi-leaf doors, doors of 55 centimeters are used, for single-leaf doors (in small-sized housing) - 80 or 90 centimeters. It is not recommended to do even less, no matter how cramped it will be, because sometimes you will have to take out or bring in furniture. Please note: standard French single doors are 68, 79 or 89 centimeters wide.
Height
The height of doors for interroom transitions most often ranges from 195 to 207 cm. In Russia, Finland, Spain and Italy, structures with a height of 190, 200 and 210 centimeters are produced.
Thickness
This parameter fluctuates different designs from 2 to 7.5 centimeters. There is nothing surprising here - different thicknesses are optimal for different walls. If they are made of plasterboard or are brickwork, it is best to buy boxes with a thickness of 75 millimeters. It will be easier for you to install them, and if there is a slight difference with actual size, It won’t be difficult to eliminate it with extras.
How to choose?
The easiest way is to buy boards and bars 5-6 centimeters thick and 10 centimeters wide to create a wooden interior door. But it would be better to spend a little extra time and choose a beam whose thickness does not differ by a millimeter from the thickness of the door.
In addition to the size of the interior door, you need to choose the material for it. Larch and linden are considered the best varieties wood, pine is just acceptable. But alder, hornbeam, and beech are bad because they often warp when the air is dry or excessively humid. Oak is more reliable in this regard, but high prices prevent its widespread use.
Steel and plastic structures can be used as door frames at the entrance, or in bathrooms, toilets and toilets. Always evaluate and color solutions, and the type of finish, and its texture, and the type of threshold. When assessing suitable sizes you need to consider whether an automatic closer will be used or not. When it is known that the floors have not yet been laid, an adjustment is made for the height of the screed and the characteristics of the coating itself, the limitations associated with the use of water and infrared heated floors cannot be ignored.
In addition to the opening parameters, the width of the box should also be adjusted to the height of the ceilings. Quite often a situation arises when, for design reasons, it is impossible to use the right door. When installing the box on plasterboard walls you need to have a diagram of the location of the supporting frame so that you do not need to suddenly move part of the wall.
When calculating, the width of the sash increases by double the thickness of the timber (do not forget that the cross-section of the box is L-shaped). Take into account the part of the sealing material extending beyond the contour of the opening (it can be from 30 cm and have a height of 2.5-3 centimeters), and the supporting surface under the beams. By adding another 20-25 millimeters of clearance for installing the box, compare the resulting figure with the actual dimensions of the passage. The same principles will help to calculate the final height (you also need to introduce a threshold correction for it).
Expanding the opening if necessary is better than artificially narrowing it with various designs: when installed with extensions, a door will not stand as stable as one placed close to the wall. And more heat will be lost.
To ensure that the parameters are measured as accurately and quickly as possible, always use a level, preferably a laser one. When the depth of the opening is 10% or more greater than the depth of the product, serious problems can arise. Then you need to either install slopes, or (which is less professional), saw the timber along the length, reducing its thickness, but no more than 1-1.5 centimeters.
Please note that you should only take on such work experienced performers with high-quality instruments. If the exact width and height of the opening cannot be determined due to its complex configuration, measurements must be taken in at least three places for each plane. The arithmetic mean of the results obtained is taken as the final value.
When you need to complete the door frame with extensions, it is better to take plastic elements, they are the most flexible and make it easier to fit the main surfaces. Please note: any additional element must have the same color and texture as the rest of the structure. To make fewer cuts, it is better to cover the gaps separating the opening from the frame with wide platbands. Choosing the size that is right for you will not be particularly difficult in any specialized store.
Don't buy door frames made from a combination different materials- they inevitably differ physical properties, and therefore warping may soon occur, the door will be harder to close. Important: when old door is still standing, distances are measured from the central part of the platbands.
In apartments commissioned before 1991, interior doors with frames measuring 108 millimeters are used; if the partition is 10 centimeters thick, you need to install a box 120 millimeters thick. Attention: according to current regulatory requirements in any room where 16 or more people can be present at the same time, you can only use doors from 1.2 meters wide.
Installation
Installation of the door frame is carried out using wedges and beams, an electric cutter, a hacksaw, a miter box, and a drill. Additionally, you will need polyurethane foam and a pencil, building level, a knife with a thin pointed cutting edge, screws and nails with miniature heads. When the installation of the box begins, the slopes should already be checked in at least three places, both vertically and horizontally. A deviation of five centimeters or more is unacceptable, it requires additional alignment. Do not forget to maintain a technological gap to the floor surface, it is 1.5 cm.