Compliance with the basic rules of agrochemical science will allow anyone who wants to get large heads as a result, like in a supermarket, to plant garlic for the winter. That's just stored winter varieties plants are very bad - this should be taken into account by all gardeners.
- Choice of landing site
- How to plant
- Frost protection
- Work in the spring
Choice of landing site
The plant "loves" the sun's rays, so a well-lit area of \u200b\u200bthe garden will be an ideal place for it. At the same time, water in such a place should not stagnate. Good plant precursors are legumes, cucumbers and gourds, potatoes. It is not recommended to plant a vegetable in the same place all the time.
According to the qualitative characteristics, the soil can have different composition- both chernozem and sandy or loamy soil are suitable. The main condition is that the earth must be loose. To do this, about a month before the expected planting date of the cloves, it is necessary to dig up the area allotted for garlic, with the addition of fertilizers, so that the plant planted for the winter is large. Usually, experienced gardeners for the winter, a vegetable is planted in beds or in boxes filled with fertile soil.
As fertilizers for garlic are used:
Nitrophoska;
superphosphate;
humus;
compost.
"Ennoble" clayey or sandy soil peat mixed with loam will help. Level the prepared soil and disinfect with a solution blue vitriol.
Important! Garlic does not like acidic soil, so it is best to get tested at the nearest seed station. If the soil turned out to be highly acidic, the situation is corrected by adding when digging dolomite flour or lime.
Optimal terms of work
Before planting garlic before winter and in order to be large in early summer, you should carefully read the weather forecasts for the next 2-3 weeks. Early planting will force the plant to grow and it will die from frost. Late - will not allow the cloves to take root well. On average, work on planting seed for the winter begins in the Middle lane in late September - early October.
Variety selection and preparation of planting material
Preference should be given to zoned varieties intended specifically for the region in which the gardener lives. You can also use foreign winter-hardy species garlic, however, it should be remembered that the conditions for plants in another country are somewhat different from the local ones. This may adversely affect the future harvest.
Divide the heads into cloves, trying not to break the dry shell on each of them.
Soak the prepared garlic in one of the following compositions for half an hour:
Saline solution;
potassium permanganate solution (potassium permanganate);
solution wood ash;
copper sulphate solution;
solution "Fitosporin-M".
Such measures are necessary to combat fungal diseases, for which the surface of planting material is a fertile breeding ground.
Important! You can not keep the teeth in the compositions long before planting, so as not to degrade the quality of the planting material.
How to plant
Winter-hardy varieties of garlic gain weight and size well when enough free space around. Therefore, the distance between the cloves should be at least 10 cm. The aisles in the garden with spices should be left at least 20 cm.
The planting material planting depth exceeds the spring one and is about 10 cm, so that the garlic does not freeze out at very low temperatures during the winter months. Most often, the calculation of the depth of the grooves is done in a simple way- it should be equal to twice the height of the average garlic clove.
Frost protection
Often in middle lane European plain sub-zero temperatures come before heavy snowfalls, freezing the surface of the soil several tens of centimeters deep. To avoid damage to the future crop from the cold, beds with winter garlic should be mulched. Suitable as a covering material:
Peat;
sawdust;
humus;
needles;
spunbond or agrofibre.
To keep as much snow as possible on the beds with winter-hardy plants, you can cover them with cuttings of branches.
Work in the spring
As soon as the positive temperature is established and the snow melts, all the mulch should be removed. This will help the spice grow faster. spring top dressing it is better to carry out after the soil has dried in the aisles to combine it with the first watering. fit potash fertilizers or urea.
Garlic responds well to loose soil, so regular weeding between rows helps not only to get rid of weeds, but also to saturate the soil with oxygen after winter "hibernation".
Important fact: winter garlic often shoots arrows after the sun has warmed it enough. They should be broken out without fail, leaving “stumps”, 2-3 cm in size.
There are two forms of garlic culture: non-shooting and arrowing (buzzard). The arrow is a peduncle and shoots only winter garlic which can be sown in autumn.
At the end of summer, winter bulbous garlic bulbs ripen on the peduncle - air onions, in one inflorescence there can be more than a hundred of them:
Bulbs are ripe, it's time to harvest the garlic
Bulbs can be used for planting before winter, but by the next summer only a very small onion weighing 3-8 g, or a single-toothed onion, will grow from them, it needs to be planted again in the fall, and get it for the second summer good harvest full-fledged large bulbs. Although if you sow small bulbs, then in the second year the bulbs are not so hot, only in the third - what you need - large with good keeping quality. Due to this slow development, bulbous propagation of garlic is not often practiced, usually only to preserve the varietal quality of the garlic.
Drying garlic bulbs before planting
Much more popular is the cultivation of zimnyak from cloves. A clove is essentially a daughter bulb with a rudimentary bud, and many cloves (there can be from one to seven) on a common bottom, surrounded by covering scales, form a complex bulb.
Small heads of garlic grew from bulbs for the first year - they will go for planting before winter
The bigger planting material, the larger the crop will be: if you plant a large clove, in the spring a large complex bulb is formed from it: in which there will be a maximum of teeth, and small bulbs grow into one clove from small planted cloves.
Those who have never grown garlic sometimes feel sorry for planting material, leave large cloves for storage and food, try to plant smaller cloves, but as a result, the yield is several times less, even if the arrows are removed in a timely manner (they take food). Therefore, use either the largest cloves or single-tooth bulbs for planting. Periodically renew garlic from bulbs, ideally, about a third of all crops should be bulbs, the rest should be cloves.
When to plant garlic before winter
The timing of planting garlic in the fall depends on weather and climatic conditions. In the central regions of Russia, this is usually the beginning of October, in the southern regions - the end of October, the beginning of November, in Siberia - the end of September. Very vague terms, usually a gardener in each locality has his own calendar and will take a couple in reserve: some believe that garlic should be planted before the Intercession, others can start right from the Intercession.
My relatives in Tomsk have been planting winter garlic for many years from September 20 to October 5. Others - in Ufa, planted strictly after October 8, on the next day off. Do not check with thermometers, trust intuition. Friends from Kazan are always in the first decade of October.
The general rule for planting garlic does not depend on calendar dates: planting should be carried out 45, maximum 50 days before the onset of stable cold weather, when the soil cools down to + 10 ° C. This is enough time for the garlic to form a good bunch of roots 10-12 cm long.
Place to land
Garlic is photophilous, we choose a sunny place for it. But what vegetable doesn't love the sun? Just remember that this is a long daylight culture and even light shade will not give us a crop.
Garlic is no less demanding on the soil - like all bulbs, porous, drained, but nutritious soil of a neutral reaction is good for it.
In the spring, you need to remove the shelter from winter garlic in time
It does not tolerate waterlogging, long water retention (in heavy clay soils), too acidic soil (peaty soils), and on sandy bulbs small - too poor substrate and dry.
If your site has been developed for a long time, we plant, observing crop rotation, the second year only in a new place in order to avoid diseases and pests. The best predecessors of garlic are gourds (zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers), tomatoes, early cabbage, leafy greens, legumes. Bad predecessors: potatoes, onions.
If you are just learning garden plot and the beds are not prepared, it is worth improving the soil before planting.
Soil preparation
If you have a low location of the site, the earth dries for a long time, onions and garlic can be grown in high beds, if the site is dry - in raised beds (minimum height 20 cm). The width is arbitrary, for the convenience of weeding no more than 1 m.
Raised beds dryer excess water after precipitation quickly leaves, in the spring they warm up faster.
If the soil is neutral, then we add organic and mineral fertilizers: per 1 m2 of land: 10 liters of humus, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. potassium chloride.
The main thing is not to use fresh manure - only humus (manure that has lain in a pile for 3-4 years).
Additionally, depending on the type of soil:
- if the soil is too heavy, dense, evaporates moisture for a long time, it needs to be improved by adding sand and peat - a bucket per 1 sq. m
- if sandy - add peat and clay accordingly (it needs to be dried and broken down to a state of cereal or powder) - a bucket per 1 sq. m
- we improve peat soils by adding clay and sand - a bucket per 1 sq. m (indicative consumption)
- if the soil is good in structure, add only fertilizers
Landing pattern
Planting cloves
There are several rows in the garden, a distance of 20 cm between them, a maximum of 25 cm, is no longer needed, unless you plan to sow carrots together.
The distance between the teeth should be left 15-20 cm, the embedment depth is 4-6 cm.
If planted more often, it will be inconvenient to weed and loosen the soil
Planting bulbs
The distance between the rows is the same 20 cm, between the bulbs 10-15 cm, the embedment depth is 4-5 cm. Consumption is about 20-30 g of bulbs per 1 sq. m beds.
A denser planting scheme for zimnyak, which is often indicated in garden primers (6-7 cm), is not justified - you can only plant this way if you have a piece of land for all crops, and you will thin out unripe garlic for soup or salad during the summer. In practice, garlic growing in the spring quickly overgrows with weeds, with a dense planting it is difficult to weed, even if you do not tear out weeds, but chop off their roots, no Fokin flat cutter or similar tool will get into dense plantings.
How to plant garlic
We prepare the soil in two to three weeks - we apply fertilizers and humus (compost). Those. if we plant at the end of September, at the beginning of September we can prepare.
Whether it is worth pre-treating the planting material before planting is up to you, the survival of the bulbs depends more not on processing, but on further agricultural technology. It is useful to soak the teeth for a couple of hours in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin.
We plant garlic according to the scheme, to the correct depth - cloves no more than 6 cm, bulbs no more than 5 cm
Some gardeners recommend not pressing the tines into the soil so as not to injure the bottom, this is true, especially if the soil is very dense. We have airy peat, very loose, we always drown completely. If the ground is wet, you can not make furrows - we stick the tool handle to the desired depth and plant it.
If you have not previously fertilized, just sprinkle ashes on the beds, about a glass per square meter. meter.
Do not water the garlic after planting. When garlic is planted in autumn, there is enough rainfall for it to take root, and in spring it starts to grow.
But it is necessary to cover the garlic. If the winters are not severe enough to cover the fallen leaves with fruit trees- sprinkle with a layer of about 20 cm over the beds, on top - nonwoven fabric so that it is not blown away by the wind, or when snow falls, throw it on top.
If the winters are harsh, you can cover winter garlic with straw manure, best of all with horse bedding, where manure is mixed with sawdust - excellent fertilizer. If there is no manure, cover with peat, a layer of such mulch is about 10-15 cm. But in the spring, be sure to rake manure or peat from the beds before the garlic starts to grow! And when the soil dries out, carry out a shallow loosening (the top 2 cm of the earth so that there is no crust left and the soil breathes).
Olga Treukhina
Planting garlic before winter is a responsible event, here you need to choose the right planting material, correctly determine the planting time, know the subtleties and rules, nuances and features. Let me start with such nuances.
Bulbs or cloves?
Few people know (and maybe many), but I personally learned about it only about 15 years ago that garlic as a culture has two different forms: one is referred to as non-shooting, the second - shooting, which in our Tambov region has always been called simply "zimnyak". What is an arrow? The simplest is an ordinary peduncle. The arrow is formed only by winter garlic, that is, the one that we sow in autumn.
In winter garlic, as we understand it, giving arrows, at the very end of the burning summer, bulbs begin to ripen on the peduncle, these are such air bulbs, and in each inflorescence there can be a hundred or even more of them.
It is also possible to use these same bulbs for planting in the fall, but next season you will not get a full-fledged head with garlic cloves. Only a rather small onion, weighing only 4-7 g, will grow from a bulb, which we call a single-tooth and are very briskly sold on the market for planting in the fall. From one-tooth next summer you will get a full-fledged head of garlic. By the way, sometimes quite large and with teeth in it.
Everything would be fine, but there are exceptions: there are also bulbs different sizes, and when you sow very small ones, then the next season the onions will not be very large. A quality crop of solid-sized garlic bulbs, clogged with cloves and ready for long-term storage, you will be able to get it only after another season, that is, in the third year. Due to the rather slow development of garlic, when propagating it in this way, sowing with bulbs is practiced on home plots only sometimes as an experiment, or, more often, to preserve all the cultural characteristics of a certain variety of garlic.
Zimnyanka - planting full-fledged garlic cloves before winter
Planting full-fledged garlic cloves before winter, its popularity cannot be compared with sowing bulbs. By the way, what is a toothpick? A clove is, in essence, a daughter onion that has a well-developed, active, living rudimentary bud. And if there are a lot of such cloves of garlic (do not think that there are at least three, maybe one, and a maximum of as many as seven pieces), which are arranged on a common bottom and carefully wrapped in covering scales, then this is already an onion, and more complex.
From large to large
It is believed that the larger (larger) the planting material itself, the greater the yield. That is, if we plant a hefty clove of garlic in the soil, then in the spring we simply must get large onion with the maximum number of large teeth. If you plant a small clove, then the garlic bulb will be of medium size, at best - with a small or even one clove inside.
It's not worth regretting
Beginners, who have not grown garlic before, usually take the largest cloves for food or storage, and the smaller ones are planted on the plot. As a result, every year they have less and less yields, although they remove the arrows on time (an important procedure, by the way: the arrows draw a lot of food on themselves), but this technique does not help. If you do not want to reduce your garlic yields to close to zero, then for planting try to divide large cloves equally - half for food and half for harvest, and, of course, use single cloves for planting.
Once every two or three years, I would advise to revive garlic on a separate small bed, that is, grow it from bulbs, there will be no harm from this, only benefit.
When to plant garlic before winter?
Let's move on to the timing, this is important, but in many respects the timing also depends on climatic conditions. If we talk about the center of Russia, then the optimal period for this is, of course, the very beginning of October. If we are talking about the south, then it is better to plant garlic no earlier than the end of October, or, even more beautiful, no earlier than the beginning of October, in order to be absolutely safe. And if the conditions are Siberian, then hurry up.
As you can see, the terms are more than vague, but experienced gardeners long time living in the same zone already have notes with a couple of secret signs in their stock of knowledge. For example, some seriously think that garlic must be planted before the Intercession, while others - the next day after this great holiday.
I know that, for example, in the conditions of the Tomsk region, the planting of winter garlic begins every year on September 22-23 and (if it's hot), then it is delayed until October 7. Friends from Ufa always take a vacation and on the very first day, starting from October 8, they plant garlic. Of course, there are thermometers to help us, and we need to listen to intuition: the older a person is, the better developed it is. My grandfather in Kazan plants garlic in general, regardless of the weather outside the window - stubbornly - in the first ten days of October and has not deviated from this tradition for twenty years.
So, one cumulative rule for planting garlic, regardless of calendar dates, says: the teeth should be in the soil one and a half months (maximum - 50 days) before the onset of real frosts, when the soil temperature drops below nine degrees Celsius. it optimal time in order for the garlic to form a fairly decent bunch of roots (sometimes even 15 cm, but usually about ten).
Place for planting garlic
The right place chosen is very important and affects the final result, so this point cannot be neglected. It must be remembered that garlic is a light-loving crop, therefore, we choose for it the most open and well-lit place on the site. Try to choose a place so that even during the day a short-term shadow does not cover this culture. As for the predecessors, green manure, pumpkin (and indeed all melons in general), tomatoes, any cabbage (especially early ones), legumes and leafy greens are considered good, but bad predecessors for garlic are onions, garlic itself, carrots, cucumbers and potatoes.
Having chosen a site and decided on the predecessors, find out what kind of soil is on this site, do not forget that, like all bulbs, garlic loves loose soil, air and water permeable, nutritious and always with a neutral pH level, you need to take care of all this in advance, at least for a month.
Try not to plant garlic in the fall in swampy areas, those where melt or rain water accumulates for a long time, where the soil is dense, clay type, and of course, the soil is acidic, these are usually any soils that contain a lot of peat. You can plant garlic on sandstones, but it will be of little use: this substrate is poor and requires very frequent watering, so the bulbs will most likely be very small.
Soil preparation
As we know, plots are different, and it's good when a given plot is raised, leveled and the ground on it is like fluff; quite different when the site is low, the land dries out slowly. What to do? In this case best option- this building high beds(centimeters twenty - just right). The width of the beds can be any, but usually no one makes more than a meter wide, it is more convenient to weed.
Of course, high beds have their drawbacks, do not forget about them. The most important thing: the soil on such beds dries twice as fast as on a regular bed, but there are pluses: in the event of a shower or excessive watering, the water will drain faster, and such beds warm up in spring twice as fast as even soil. The main thing is that they are fenced and not spread over the site.
If the soils in your area are acidic, then you can completely abandon autumn planting garlic and spend the spring. Or, a month before planting, apply 200 g of lime per square meter of beds, digging up the soil well (for a full bayonet of a shovel). Of course, perfect option- liming the soil, especially under the predecessor of garlic, but then you will have to abandon both the autumn planting and the spring one. In the fall, 250-300 g of lime are added for digging, planted in the spring early cabbage and in autumn next year- winter garlic.
If everything is in order with the soil, that is, its reaction is neutral, then 10-12 kg of humus, a tablespoon of superphosphate and a tablespoon of potassium sulfate can be added to the beds for digging the beds, for each square meter. The main thing in this case is not to resort to the help of fresh manure, you can use humus, and if there is nothing besides manure, then use it to lie in a heap for at least four years, that is, it is well rotted.
Additionally, depending on the type of soil:
In the event that the soil is very heavy, clayey, dense and both melt and irrigation water stagnates on it for a long time, then it must be brought back to normal as soon as possible. This should be done at least a month before planting garlic, this work is physically difficult and without the possibility of using equipment, although it all depends on the size of the future garden with garlic. In order to make the soil loose, it is necessary to make a bucket of peat and river sand for each square meter of soil for deep digging on a full bayonet of a shovel.
If, on the contrary, the soil in your area is excessively loose, that is, sandy, then you need to compact it by adding clay and humus. Clay must be dried very well before application, then crushed literally into the smallest parts to a powder state, and only after that, in combination with sand, can it be applied to the soil. Usually, per square meter for digging, you need both of them (that is, sand and clay) in a bucket.
Owners of peat soils, which are often acidic, in addition to adding 250 g of lime per square meter, we also recommend adding a bucket of sand, always river sand and clay prepared according to the method described above. All this is brought under the obligatory digging of the soil.
Planting garlic cloves
Let's start with the traditional and most common planting of garlic - planting cloves. When the bed is ready, leveled, loosened, it is necessary to make rows on it, stepping back 18-20 cm from each other, and with very wide beds and 25 cm it will be just right, but no more. The distance between the cloves of garlic depends on their size: small ones can be planted, leaving 14-16 cm between them, larger ones - 19 and even 22 cm, saving soil in this case is simply pointless. Usually, the cloves are planted on loose soil to a depth of four centimeters, and on dense soil to a depth of five or six centimeters.
Planting bulb bulbs
Between the rows it is quite possible to make the same distance equal to two tens of centimeters, but between the bulbs ten is enough if they are already quite small, and 15 cm if they are larger. Bulbs of garlic are planted on loose soil to a depth of four centimeters, on denser soil - five centimeters. Usually, about three dozen bulbs go per square meter of the garden bed, less often - more, it’s still not worth parting with the placement.
It is not worth increasing the planting of garlic for the reason that usually weeds grow quite actively in its plantations and it becomes elementary difficult to take care of it later, in addition, banal competition arises between them and the bulbs simply cannot grow large.
It is necessary to prepare the soil before planting garlic for 10-15 days, that is, if we plan to plant it at the end of September, then at the beginning of the month it is quite possible to start preparing the soil.
Is it necessary to treat garlic cloves before planting? It is rarely carried out, you can soak it for an hour or two in a solution of potassium permanganate light color, but usually success in cultivation lies precisely in further agricultural technology.
On any soil, even the most loose, the maximum depth of penetration of a clove of garlic is six centimeters, bulbs - five centimeters.
It is impossible to “stick” garlic cloves strongly, they must be carefully “placed” in the soil, for which the soil must first be brought to a loose state.
On planted beds after planting, it is enough to sprinkle upper layer furnace ash, 200 g per square meter.
Watering the garlic after planting is not needed, usually there is enough rain, but if not a single one falls in a month, then you can water it once, spending a bucket per square meter.
After the onset of frost, while there is no snow, garlic can be covered with leaf litter with a layer of 15-25 cm, and a non-woven covering material can be spread on top of it. Or do not use the leaves at all, managing only the material.
In the north, winter garlic is protected - it is covered with straw manure, and horse manure, mixing manure and sawdust in equal proportions. You can also cover with humus, a layer of 18-20 cm. The main thing is to remove this shelter as quickly and accurately as possible in the spring so that the soil warms up more actively and does not damage the seedlings.
A month after the snow melts, you can loosen the soil, trying to go deeper by 1.5-2 cm, but this is already care, that is, another article.
It is important for a farmer and a summer resident to know this: when to plant winter garlic - at what time, at what distance, to what depth. How to determine the exact time of planting, subtleties, nuances - agronomists advise, experienced farmers recommend.
When to plant garlic in the fall:
Need 34-40 days to root system formed from 12 to 18 roots 5-10 cm long. The timing of planting winter garlic is 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost: the teeth should have time to take root, but not germinate.
The timing of planting garlic depends on three factors:
- soil temperature +10…+7 °C;
- absence of night frosts with t not lower than -10 °C;
- the soil should not be too wet so that it is possible to plant garlic both manually in the country and in field conditions using mechanized equipment.
Late planting of garlic in late October-early November, adjusted for the region, is fraught with low germination: teeth that have not had time to take root die.
Advice! Winter garlic not planted in autumn can be planted in spring.
Depending on the variety, during spring sowing, the cloves will form a bulb that is not differentiated into cloves - the so-called. one-tooth bulb. More likely to get an onion divided into cloves will give cold storage at t -5 ... + 5 ° C and early dates landing.
Soil preparation for planting winter garlic using a wide-row method.
Estimated timeframes vary by region. Winter garlic in the Moscow region is planted from September 15-20 to the first ten days of October, in the Kostroma region - until mid-October inclusive, on Southern Urals- until October 5-10. Given climate change and a warmer autumn, the timing may be shifted. If you ask the older generation, they will answer clearly: until the Intercession came, marking the arrival of winter - October 14th.
On the personal plot possible planting pattern between rows is observed from 45-40 to 30-35 cm. In comparison with commercial areas, it is possible to reduce the distance between rows by increasing the distance in a row: 25 cm x 12 cm, 30 x 10 cm.
When to plant garlic before winter and how - agronomists advise.
The scheme for planting winter arrow garlic with different weights of cloves for large areas is as follows:
- for large cloves weighing 6-9 g - 45 cm × 70-10 cm with a feeding area of 35-45 cm2;
- for medium weight 5-7 g - 45 cm × 7 cm with a feeding area of 300-320 cm2;
- for small 2-3 g - 45 x 5 (up to 220 cm2 per plant);
- for very small ones up to 1.5 g 45 cm × 3 cm (up to 140 cm2).
Why all these numbers? To determine the required number of teeth in terms of weight per unit area.
So, when planting teeth of medium caliber with a feeding area of 320 cm2: 10,000 m2 divided by 0.0320 m2 and we get 312,500 pieces.
To determine the mass of garlic per 1 ha: multiply the average weight by the quantity: 312500 × 4-5 g = 1406 kg per hectare. The sowing rate of large cloves can be up to 2000 kg/ha.
Important! Taking into account the scales, the bottom and part of the arrows, the amount of garlic per 1 ha is increased by 5-7%.
The optimal planting pattern for industrial areas, farm plantings will be a two-row tape planting pattern - 45 cm between rows (double rows) and 20 cm between double rows, as well as a wide-row method - with a row spacing of 40-45 cm.
Planting density with the first method will be about 380,000, with the second - about 270,000 plants per 1 ha.
For mechanized care and cleaning on industrial areas, a four-row planting pattern is also practiced (with a width of the main row spacing of 54 cm, and 27 cm - four narrow ones). Good results will be given by row planting of winter garlic - with row spacing of 30-40 cm.
The feeding area of one plant is from 80-100 to 360 cm2, depending on the variety, size of the clove, agricultural technology, soil and climatic conditions.
Row spacing
The distance in a row depends on the size of the tooth. So, winter garlic is usually larger than spring garlic (up to 2-3 g), and require a greater distance: from 6-10 to 12 cm. With the wide-row method (45 × 7), the optimal feeding area will be up to 320 cm2.
Two-row scheme for planting winter garlic.
Important! An increase in planting density leads to a decrease in gross yield, while improving product quality due to a greater number of large bulbs.
At the same time, the sowing rate of air seeds (bulbs) of garlic per 1 linear meter of a row is 55-60 bulbs at a weight rate of about 50 kg/ha, depending on the caliber.
planting depth
At what depth to plant garlic - there are many opinions. The correct answer is that the depth depends on the size.
Winter garlic is sown to a depth of 7-8 cm and up to 10-12 cm, depending on the size of the bulbs: medium specimens are deepened by 7-8 cm, large ones by 10-12 cm, small ones by 3-5 cm. teeth should not be less than 3-4 cm.
Important! On sandy light soils, it should be planted at a greater depth due to faster freezing of soils with a light mechanical composition. At the same time, a decrease in t to -12 ... -14 ° C in the bottom zone can become critical, leading to freezing.
Collection of winter garlic.
Proper fit is a tricky one. It is worth noting a few nuances and bad advice.
About soaking. Before planting, the teeth are soaked in a solution of foundationazole, immersing for 2-3 minutes. Classical potassium permanganate can cause a burn in high concentration, and foundation is more effective.
Some sand. With a low agricultural background, it is recommended to sprinkle the bottom of the planting rows with sand so that the bottom does not come into contact with the soil in order to avoid root rot, etc.
Position. For better rooting, the teeth should occupy a strictly vertical position, which is not always possible with mechanized planting: the teeth are laid at an angle, which affects productivity - it reduces by 10-15%.
Do not loosen the soil. The most common anti-advice is loosening before planting. The bottom should lie on a compacted bed: loose soil will not give a tight fit with an earthen lump, it will slow down germination.
Too loose soil on industrial plantings is rolled up; on light soils, rolling is practiced. Gardeners, on the other hand, simply mulch, raking a mound of earth from above.
About mulching. Do not mulch plantings with peat, tyrsa: these are heavy moisture-intensive materials, and in the spring they make it difficult to warm the soil.
About fertilizer. The introduction of organic matter before planting negatively affects the germination and phytosanitary quality of products, gives rise to green mass to the detriment of the bulb.
Let's hope that simple tips - when to plant garlic, where and how will be useful, and not useful tips will not be used. Have a bountiful harvest!
When and how to plant winter garlic
For planting garlic, planting time, soil conditions, proper fertilization, water availability and variety selection are of great importance.
For planting garlic, choose places where early harvested melons, legumes, potatoes, cucumbers grew. The place must be sunny. It is not recommended to plant garlic in the place where the onion and garlic itself grew. Best time for landing in the middle lane - mid-September, in the south - from the beginning of October. If planted earlier than these dates, the cloves will release greens and the roots will be weakened. If planted later, the garlic will not have time to take root before frost and will not tolerate the winter well.
Garlic loves a flat surface that is not heated by spring floods. A place for planting garlic is prepared 20-30 days before planting. The beds are best oriented from north to south. The earth at the planned landing site is dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet (20-30 cm), all stones and weeds are selected. After digging, the place must be harrowed and well leveled. Then you need to apply fertilizer. Humus, manure or compost aged for two years is best suited. Fertilizer consumption - one 10-liter bucket for 2 square meters. Before planting, the earth is well loosened, watered and grooves are made, on the bottom of which ash and sand are poured so that the bottoms do not rot.
What garlic to plant before winter?
For planting, the largest cloves are selected that do not have stains, mold, traces of rot and damage. If at least one clove from a garlic head has traces of rot and stains, then all the teeth of this head are considered unsuitable for planting. All teeth intended for planting must be "dressed", that is, have an outer shell that must be intact, without damage.
Garlic is planted to a depth of two cloves, that is, the distance from the upper tip of the clove to the surface of the earth should be 3-5 cm, depending on the size of the planted. The grooves are plentifully watered before planting. Small cloves are planted at a distance of 5-7 from each other, large - 10-15 cm. The distance between rows should be at least 20 cm - for better lighting and ease of fertilization. In no case should the cloves be pressed into the ground - during germination, the roots will push the bulb up, it will freeze in winter, and the result will be small, diseased heads of garlic with large quantity teeth. After planting, the soil is leveled again, mulched with peat, sawdust, or spruce branches are laid on top. If the autumn is dry, then once every 5 days the garlic needs to be watered.
A very good harvest of garlic will be if there is a lot of snow on the garden in winter. Therefore, if you have small areas planting garlic, and there is little snow above them, it should be thrown up.
Garlic in one place can be grown for no more than two years. After this period, the cloves become smaller, their number in the head increases, and the garlic itself becomes weak, susceptible to fungal diseases and frosts. After two years, repeat everything done again, but in a different place.
How to protect garlic from severe frosts?
The main condition is that garlic must be planted on time! Then, subject to all the rules, before the onset of frost, he will have time to take root. In this case, he will gain strength. Of course, it’s not worth hoping only for this, so it’s better to foresee additional protection if the winter is severe.
The first thing to do is to mulch with peat, humus or straw manure, good option can become leaves of trees. It is important to know that the layer thickness should not be less than 4 cm, because we will not achieve any effect. In order for garlic cloves to sprout in the spring, you need to choose the right time for planting in the fall, thoroughly prepare the ground, and mulch.
For getting best harvest it is also important to know how to select and prepare material.
What varieties of garlic are best planted before winter?
These include the following varieties of winter garlic:
- Oradiensky;
- Gribovsky 60;
- Gribovsky anniversary;
- Komsomolets;
- Danilovsky local.
Varieties of garlic before winter, in most cases, shoot. Such varieties, in parallel with the underground bulb, form an inflorescence in which there are air bulbs.
Video on how to plant garlic before winter: