From the author: good day. Now my story will be about how I broke a drill and a drill, and also broke off a piece of the wall, just trying to make a hole in order to insert a cable for a new socket. Before I tell you how this happened, I’ll clarify where I got the knowledge and experience in this matter.
The wall I broke the drill on was brick. After this incident, not knowing how to drill a concrete wall correctly, I began to consult with my familiar builders, read articles on the Internet and analyze the incorrectness of my actions. Having synthesized all the knowledge and made a couple of conclusions, I am ready to present you with a few lines on this topic. Let's begin.
What mistakes did I make and what mistakes should you not make?
The wall I was drilling was quite thick. About thirty centimeters. She stood as a barrier between the kitchen and the loggia. Why drill? I’m not a big fan of boxes and I think that they don’t look as aesthetically pleasing as possible, so it’s better to make one small hole in the wall to thread the cable through rather than spoil appearance a bunch of plastic.
Armed with a hammer drill, I got to work. The first mistake I made was putting too much pressure on the wall at the beginning of the drilling process. You see, if the drill bit is quite long, putting too much pressure on it will create unnecessary deformation, which will either break the bit itself or cause the chuck to become loose.
In my case it was the second option, and the cartridge was practically torn from the base due to the vibrations created. Fortunately, I had a hammer drill at home, and I easily did the same procedure without any problems.
I’ll explain why I didn’t immediately use a hammer drill, because that’s what it’s designed for. The answer is simple. I knew that the wall was made of brickwork, which means that it is an order of magnitude softer than concrete. Therefore, using an impact drill seemed optimal to me. There was no desire to take out a huge, in my opinion, hammer drill from the pantry, but the miser pays twice.
The second attempt to take the brick wall was successful. The next step was the holes in the concrete ceiling slab, which would later hold the profiles for. For this I used a drill much smaller. It was eight millimeters in diameter and about 9–10 centimeters in length.
Already with a hammer drill in my hands, I climbed onto the ladder, raised my head up, chose a place and began to drill. The stove did not give in to me. I decided that the effort was not enough, and it would be quite reasonable to push even harder. Having pressed, all I managed to see was the moment the drill broke into two halves, lasting one moment, and how the upper (broken off) part fell right into my eye.
Without having time to react to the attack of the drill, I just stood there, petrified. The fragment hit the safety glasses, was deflected and fell to the ground. At that moment, I realized that it was not in vain that I studied safety precautions so diligently and always follow them. Otherwise, I would have been left without an eye out of stupidity. The mistake this time was that next to the Pobedit drill I needed for working with concrete walls and slabs there was another, ordinary one, which in appearance was barely different from what was needed.
A mistake was made, but not in vain. You see, an ordinary drill, although barely, drills through concrete. It made a small hole in the ceiling, allowing the drill not to slip on the surface. The main thing is not to overdo it when doing it.
So, the mistakes I made:
- pressed too hard on the drill when drilling a hole;
- made a mistake when choosing a drill;
- overestimated the talent of the impact drill.
Avoid these mistakes and using the instructions below, you will achieve the desired result without any problems.
I would also like to once again draw additional attention to safety precautions. Quite a few people neglect to even use safety glasses, ending up damaging their eyes and, at best, losing their vision. It wouldn't be difficult for anyone to put a little plastic on their face to stay intact.
Algorithm for correct drilling of a concrete wall
The first thing you should know is that the drill must enter perpendicularly, creating a right angle between the drill and the plane of the wall. Otherwise, you may damage your hands, the tool, or the surface itself, causing unwanted scratches.
When drilling concrete, this is not the most important thing, but if you do not get used to these rules, then when working on a ceramic surface or tile, you may end up with debris in your hands, and when making a hole in a wall with or plaster molding, you will not have time to think about how Tears will flow from your eyes saying goodbye to your favorite decor.
If you do not have enough physical strength to hold a hammer drill or drill evenly with one hand, then we recommend using the additional handle that always comes with any hand tools. When working, do not hold the drill by the body, as you may receive a small electrical discharge.
Select a drill bit that is designed for creating holes in concrete structures. It has a pobedit tip, and is popularly called a “pobedit drill.” What is it that will win? It is an alloy of cobalt and tungsten carbide, which is incredibly hard and durable. If you need to create a hole in concrete wall to install a new socket, there are special drills for such work with Pobedit tips that will make your work easier. So, we have decided on the nozzle. Now it's time to do the same with the tool.
You can use either an impact drill or a hammer drill. Depending on how deep the hole should be and how wide it is. If its diameter exceeds thirteen millimeters, then the hammer drill will be a more reliable gadget.
A small life hack: do not rush to drill a hole right away, adding high speeds and pressing hard on the drill. First, make a small depression like I did, which will allow the drill bit to not move from side to side and slide across the entire surface of the wall. And one more piece of advice. When working, dip the drill bit into a glass of water from time to time to prevent it from overheating.
Too lazy to clean up later?
Is it possible without dust? A fairly adequate desire in this case is to simplify the process by eliminating dust after it is completed, because hardly anyone experiences the pleasure of cleaning. Yes, you can’t find anything on Aliexpress and Ebay, but nothing will save you money and amuse others better than making your own inventions.
A fairly common way to collect dust is to create a small envelope. Place it under the place where you will drill and take out the video camera to amuse your friends later.
One example of how the mind works is in the video below:
I'll share personal experience. More precisely, the experience of my father, who finds a sound solution in any situation. Before he starts drilling something, he takes a vacuum cleaner and calls someone who is closest. Further according to the algorithm.
- Before you bring the vacuum cleaner tube to the place where you will make the hole, turn it on.
- Use a vacuum cleaner to catch dust that falls on the floor during drilling.
- Don’t force anyone to clean up after you and don’t suffer from this process yourself.
Be careful in your work and happy in life. Best wishes!
When improving an apartment, it becomes necessary to mount all kinds of objects on the walls and ceiling - photographs, paintings, lamps, mirrors, curtains, shelves, TV, baseboards and much more.
In order to hang a photograph or a small painting, of course, you should not drill into the wall. It is enough to hammer in a small nail. Not every carnation is suitable for this task. It is best to use dowels - nails from fastening brackets that secure computer network cables to walls. These cloves are of sufficient length, thick and hardened. It turns out that it can even be driven into a concrete wall.
Performing the operation of drilling holes in walls with modern equipment with power tools will not present any greater difficulty if you know how to drill correctly. It will save you from unnecessary cleaning and keep your property intact if you use a jig for dust-free drilling.
How to drill a wall
A better tool than a hammer drill for drilling holes in brick and concrete walls has not yet been invented. But rarely does anyone have the luxury of having such an expensive tool on their household. Usually buy an electric impact drill.
Drill selection
When purchasing an electric drill, you need to be guided by the following technical characteristics.
The power of the drill must be at least 600 W. Revolutions up to 2500 per minute and the ability to smoothly adjust them from zero to maximum. The presence of reverse rotation (switch for the direction of rotation of the drill clockwise or counterclockwise). The best chuck is a quick-release chuck; you won’t have to waste time clamping drills and constantly searching for a lost key. The diameter of drills clamped in the chuck is up to 12 mm.
The presence of a switchable hammer drilling function. Of course, when this function is enabled, the drill will not become a full-fledged hammer drill, but drilling walls will be much easier and faster, and here’s why. Brick, cement and concrete withstand static load - pressure very well. But they are easily destroyed by dynamic influences - impact. Karatekas, with a strong blow, easily break a brick in two with the edge of their palm. When drilling with a drill without a hammer function, there is simply pressure from the drill and it is difficult for the cutting edge to catch on to the material, so drilling is slow and the drill becomes very hot due to friction. Drilling with impact is completely different. Upon impact, the drill punctures a part of the material with its cutting edge, and, falling with an impact into the formed recess, breaks off a portion of particles of the material. Something similar to chiseling is happening.
Drill selection
Walls made of wood, plasterboard, and foam concrete can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. For walls made of brick, stone or concrete, you need a carbide drill. It differs from steel by cutting edges made of carbide material welded onto a regular drill, usually Pobeda. Less commonly, artificial diamond.
The pobedite insert is clearly visible at the end of the top drill. It is enough to have 2 Pobedit drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.
Using drills with pobedite surfacing, you can drill a hole no more than 10-15 cm deep. For drilling to greater depths, for example, to drill through a wall, use a drill. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed for drilling holes only with a hammer drill. Even the cutting edges of the drill are made not sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.
Drills come with a shank diameter of 10 and 18 mm, with special grooves of the SDS+ or SDS-max standard for fastening, but they also clamp well in a regular jaw chuck. The standard and diameter of the drill are stamped on its shank.
If you need to drill through a thick wall, for example half a meter, then the passage is carried out in several stages with drills of the same diameter, but of different lengths. This is necessary for safety and faster drilling. First, drill the wall with a 20 cm long drill to a depth of 10-15 cm, then with a longer drill to a depth of 30-35 cm and finish drilling with a 50 cm long drill. The drill for such work must be powerful enough. Of course, the drill is not designed for such a load and its use is permissible only in exceptional cases. To perform this type of work, it is better to rent a real hammer drill.
How to drill a wall
Before you start drilling into a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that there are no electrical wires or other cables running under the intended location in the plaster. Otherwise, you can damage the electrical wiring and get under voltage yourself.
How to avoid getting caught in a wire
It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch or socket. Usually, wires extend upward from them in a vertical direction to the junction box. But verticality is the ideal case. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians, saving wire, often hidden wiring laid diagonally. Here's an example of this. When I made repairs and moved the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire leading to the meter was laid.
But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. The wire will also go from the chandelier to the nearest box.
Typically the wires are recessed to a depth of no more than 10 mm. To check, use a blunt instrument, such as a screwdriver, to dig into the wall to this depth. If no wires are found, then you can start drilling. And yet, just in case, up to a depth of 20 mm, you should not press too hard on the drill and after deepening every couple of millimeters, visually check whether the wire is caught.
There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of wires in the wall. Here are some of them that are not expensive, made in China, but nevertheless work well. It also has a metal detector function, which allows you to identify the location of metal reinforcement in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper electrical wiring at a recessing depth of up to 10 mm. Electrical wiring made from aluminum wires, is detected only in metal detector mode.
Wiring detection is indicated by a flashing LED and an intermittent beep. In metal detector mode, when detected, the diode lights up constantly and the sound produced is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the finder is powered by a Krohn-type element. Such a device is especially necessary when installing suspended and suspended ceilings, since the supporting structures are attached with self-tapping screws near the ceiling, exactly where electricians usually lay the wiring.
Drilling holes in reinforced concrete
Brick walls can be drilled with a Pobedit drill without much difficulty. We decided on the location, attached the jig and, pressing hard on the drill, drilled a hole. It happens that you come across burnt bricks in the wall, which drills more slowly, the dust is not red, but black. The main thing is to drill at low speeds (200 - 400) with the impact mode turned on, pressing harder on the drill handle, and make sure that the drill does not overheat.
I bring to your attention a great video where you can see how a brick wall is drilled using an ordinary drill with a hammer drill function and a drill with pobeditovy surfacing. A hole was made in the brick wall for a box to install an internal electrical outlet.
As you can see, drilling a brick is not at all difficult. Be careful, When drilling for a long time, the drill heats up to a high temperature and If you touch it, you can get a severe burn. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill in water.
Unless the concrete wall or ceiling is made of 600 or 500 grade cement, it drills just as well as brick. In domestic construction, only grade 400 cement is used. In old houses, sometimes there are columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete. They are very difficult to drill and take a long time.
In the production of concrete blocks and wall panels for strength, they install iron reinforcement welded together mutually perpendicularly, which is corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, and add granite crushed stone. A pobedite drill is not able to overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, while drilling, the drill suddenly stops going deeper, it means it has encountered reinforcement or granite. The reinforcement can be successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you don’t have a simple drill on hand and it is permissible to move the location of the hole, then you can move it diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble when struck with a drill or narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each blow, to prevent the tool from jamming in the concrete and to make the work go faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter turn. After removing the obstacle, drilling continues with a Pobedit drill. For a drill with a hammer drill, granite stones are not an obstacle and can be drilled successfully.
Drilling tiles
For drilling in tiles Using a drill with carbide surfacing, not specifically designed for tiles, it is necessary to first remove the glaze after marking the drilling point.
This is done very simply, with a core, and in case of its absence, you can use an ordinary self-tapping screw or even a thick nail with sharp end With very light blows, chip off the glaze in the place of the future hole and then drill as brick wall at low speeds.
Drilling large diameter holes in the wall
With equipment ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a hole in the wall large diameter, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide it in the wall electric meter, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.
At home, this problem can be solved using a carbide drill. The outline of the future hole is drawn on the wall with a pencil. On the outside of the marking line, holes are drilled with a carbide drill with a diameter of 8-12 mm with a distance between the edges of the holes of about 10 mm. For a hole in the wall with a diameter of 18 cm, you will need to perform about 30 drillings with a drill diameter of 10 mm. Next, a sample of the wall material is made using a chisel and hammer. With a smaller drill diameter, the edges of the hole will be neater, but you will have to drill more holes.
If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not enough to achieve through drilling, then you can drill in two stages.
If it is possible to drill a wall on both sides, then first drill as described above on one side of the wall, then in the geometric center of the resulting sample, a hole is drilled in the wall to reach out, that is, through. Relative to the resulting hole, markings are made on the opposite side of the wall and the operation is repeated.
If it is not possible to drill a thick wall on both sides, then you will have to do drilling and sampling in two stages. From the marking line on the outside, another line is drawn at a distance sufficient so that after the first sampling in the wall and further drilling, the drill can go deeper into the made niche without touching the edges of the wall.
To reduce the labor intensity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.
Drilling depth limiter
To control the depth of the resulting hole during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tube) of the required length on the drill bit until it stops in the chuck.
If you do not have a suitable cambric on hand and you need to drill a small number of holes, then you can use ordinary PVC insulating tape, winding several turns of it. This simple device will speed up your work and save you from having to stop drilling to measure the depth of the hole.
Jig for drilling holes without dust
Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially those made of brick, the drill often “leads” away from the intended place and if there is more than one hole, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or, even worse, it is impossible to hang it, since the installed dowels do not coincide with the mounting ones loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling due to vibration it can also move and again the result will not be what was expected. But there is simple technology, allowing you to drill two or more holes strictly in specified locations.
Precise hole drilling
It turns out that the problem can be solved very simply by gluing a sheet of any sandpaper with glue or double-sided tape to the entire area of the side of the conductor that is attached to the wall. At the same time, the adhesion of the jig to the wall surface increases many times over, and during drilling, the specified accuracy of positioning of the jig is ensured. The hole will appear exactly at the marking location.
Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, you have to drill holes for dowels of different diameters, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the jig, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.
To top it off, attach a plate to the end of the base of the conductor at a right angle. Thanks to this modification, most of the drilling products will remain on this shelf, which will prevent contamination of the wallpaper and reduce the scattering of dust in all directions.
The proposed device is also indispensable when drilling holes for attaching skirting boards. Drill a hole in the jig at a given height from the shelf. When drilling, place the shelf on the floor and all the holes will be exactly at the required height from the floor, which will guarantee a tight fit of the plinth to the floor surface.
Sometimes you have to hang a product on the wall, for which you need to drill several holes in the wall and maintain the distance between them with greater accuracy. If the wall is brick and plastered, then it is impossible to perform accurate drilling without a jig.
To make a jig for precision drilling, a board, sheet of plywood or metal is suitable. After marking in the sheet, it is drilled with an ordinary drill required amount holes. Consider the case for fastening the product with two screws. One hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill that will be used to drill the wall, the second with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. After the jig is made, the first hole is drilled in the wall using the jig for the precision drilling described earlier, and a dowel is driven into the hole.
The conductor is screwed to the wall with a self-tapping screw into the hammered dowel and leveled using a water level so that drilled holes were on the same horizontal line.
Thanks to the use of a simple jig, which can be made in a few minutes from any available material, the holes were created exactly at a given distance from each other.
Using the same technology you can drill and whole line holes at a greater distance from each other. In this case, first the outer holes are drilled using the technology described above, the jig is screwed with two outer self-tapping screws, and then all other holes are drilled.
The proposed options for conductors are convenient when renovating an apartment, when dirt is common everywhere.
However, when the renovation is completed and cleaned up, drilling becomes stressful. You don’t want to stain your carpets and furniture with concrete or brick chips and dust.
Drilling without dust
When drilling walls, especially the ceiling, flour and grains of sand from the drilled material scatter throughout the room. This happens because an impeller is installed inside the drill to cool the engine, which, rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and throws it out heated in the chuck area. This measure makes it possible to make a drill of greater power with small dimensions and protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust when drilling is left to the owner to decide. I present simple design allowing you to drill without dust.
The drilling jig for dust-free drilling is a modified previous version, but the shelf is replaced by a part cut off from plastic bottle. A piece of 9-11 ply plywood measuring 80×150 mm is cut out, and a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line. On the side where the sandpaper will be glued, a trapezoidal cut is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake during drilling.
A part is cut off from a plastic bottle so that the remaining part can be attached to the conductor. The width of the base of the conductor is selected based on the size of the bottle. I took a square bottle, but any 1.5 liter bottle will do. Insulating tape is wound onto the threaded part of the neck of the bottle until it reaches a size equal to the inner diameter of the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner. When the bottle is bent, holes are formed to form the required configuration. We close them with pieces of the remaining plastic from the bottle and secure them with a stationery stapler. You can close them with tape. There is no need for tightness here. Gaps of a few millimeters will not matter, since the suction power of even a low-power vacuum cleaner is excessive.
Then using furniture stapler, along the perimeter of the end of the base of the conductor, on the side where the sandpaper is not glued, the formed part of the bottle is fixed. We make a hole in the bottle for the drill. It is better to use the melting method, since the edges forming the hole will become thicker and last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. You can melt a hole by heating it gas stove until red with a nail.
We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, and do test drilling.
The result will make you very happy. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle or brick flour on the drilling surface!
Concrete is a good material - durable. But strength also has back side: It is difficult to make holes in it for fastening anything. It’s easy to drive a nail or tighten a screw into wood, but how to drill into a concrete wall? There is no need to rush to buy a hammer drill, and you don’t need an impact drill, you can do without a drill, but you definitely can’t do without the tool that will be used to drill the wall - a punch, a drill and a drill.
Drilling concrete walls: choosing a tool
There are several ways to drill through concrete:
- Chiseling with a hand punch.
- Drilling with an electric drill.
- Chiseling with a hammer drill.
First, we will consider the most time-consuming method. It was used when it was not possible to use electric/pneumatic tools, and is still used today. You buy a special set of punches - sharpened four-lobed metal pins with diameters from eight to twenty millimeters.
It is possible to make pins yourself from any steel that can be hardened. But it is imperative to make 2-4 grooves on the side surface, which, on one side, form cutting edges, and on the other, serve as channels for the discharge of concrete chips. The pin shank is often made square - turnkey from a vice. Having placed the pin at a right angle to the wall, they begin to hit it with a heavy hammer, turning it around its axis first with a mitten hand, then, when it is deepened by 15 millimeters, with a vice key.
So - until the complete victory of the world revolution. First they work with a pin about eight millimeters in diameter. If necessary, the hole is re-passed with a pin of larger diameter. It is clear that it is usually not plastic dowels that are inserted into such holes, but wooden choppers or full-fledged bolt anchors.
It is, of course, possible to drill through concrete in this way, but it takes a lot of effort - it’s better to run to a friend’s neighbor for a cordless drill.
Now about the drills. An electric drill (you should forget about a manual one in the case of concrete - it will take more energy than the masochism described above) needs a drill. For concrete regular drills made from high-speed steel are not suitable: it is an abrasive on which they will wear off, and even burn from friction if they are not cooled.
Therefore, you need to buy a tool with a carbide insert in the store. Just don’t steal VK-8 from the factory - they don’t tolerate vibration. Often such drills are not sharpened - a green wheel is required to sharpen a carbide tool. Diamond-coated drill bits are also suitable. But this layer is thin and they will fail quickly. If the design of the drill includes a shock mode mechanism, this is what you need to use: cement goes through without problems, but granite needs to be broken.
If there is no impact mode, you can do without it: for dowels up to 40-50 mm long, a hole, as a rule, is drilled without problems. At longer distances there is a high probability of encountering a granite “asteroid”. You can smash it with a hand punch and feel like Bruce Willis. And then - work with the drill again. But now purely hammerless electric drills are a rarity.
But in general, the best tool A hammer drill is used for drilling concrete. It is more powerful than a drill, its drills are specially designed for vibration mode of operation - it is better to use it. This type of tool was created when home craftsmen had not yet thought about how to drill a concrete wall - miners used preforators, and there are strong rocks there. Previously, rotary hammers looked intimidating, but times are changing - now home-sized models have been developed. Advantages of a rotary hammer:
The impact energy is an order of magnitude higher than that of an impact drill.
- More powerful engine.
- Vibration-resistant design - shock operating mode is the main one for it, and not an additional one, like with drills.
The design of the chuck and the shank of the slotting tool eliminates rotation when high loads- in the case of jaw chucks, which are used in drills, you often have to make flats on the drill shank.
The slotting tool is specially adapted to work in vibration conditions - the carbide plate still does not like them and crumbles.
Bottom line
A manual punch should only be used in absolutely wild conditions work - when there is no alternative. And also for auxiliary operations when drilling deep holes with a hammerless drill.
A hammerless drill is great for lightweight concrete and drilling shallow holes. For heavier work, you need a tool with an impact mechanism. And even then, it’s already difficult to drill a hole with a diameter of more than 12-14 mm with a drill: the drill rotates in the chuck, and the load becomes high.
A hammer drill is an excellent tool for drilling concrete walls because it is designed to work with such materials. But, of course, it is more expensive than drills - the price difference between models of the same category is almost twofold.
Expert advice
Prev Next
To Oil paint to prevent it from drying out during storage and to prevent a film from forming on it, place a circle of thick paper on the surface of the paint and fill it with a thin layer of drying oil.
" Polyethylene film, covering a balcony or greenhouse, is protected from being torn off by the wind by a string stretched on both sides at intervals of 10-15 cm."
"To make it easier to work with a concrete mixture, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoon to it washing powder based on a bucket of water. "
"To prevent the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the obstacle, from rotating along with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire over it and lightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is held well in place. The ends of the thread can be cut off after tightening."
"You can cut out a birdhouse entrance without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out half-holes of the required size with a chisel or hatchet, and then connect the halves again."
Wooden screw plugs crumble and fall out of the wall. Take your time to cut out the new plug. Fill the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. Using a nail of a suitable diameter heated red hot, melt a hole for the screw. The fused nylon will turn into a strong cork.
"It is not difficult to turn a carpenter's level into a theodolite by equipping it with an aiming device from a slot and a front sight."
"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end to end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of noleum. "
"So that the nail goes in the right direction and does not bend when driven into deep hole or groove, you should place it inside the tube, securing it with crumpled paper or plasticine. "
Before drilling a hole in a concrete wall, secure a piece of paper just below it. Dust and concrete fragments will not fly around the room.
"To cut a pipe exactly at a right angle, we recommend doing this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."
"Roll over logs or wooden beams A simple device will help - a piece of a motorcycle or bicycle chain, equipped with a hook on one side and secured to a crowbar on the other side. "
"In order for one person to be able to work with a two-handed saw, we recommend using a simple technique: move the saw handle from the top to the bottom position."
You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes along the line of the intended cut with a nail at a frequency of 2-3 cm, and then break off the slate on the support.
" The best way glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt it and drop just four drops on the corners of the tile. Stuck on dead. "
When making shaped window casings, it is most convenient to cut shaped holes with a hacksaw with a sharpened blade.
"Making stained glass is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of stained glass. To do this, take thin slats or rods of vines, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and cover it with varnish."
"If you don't have a dowel at hand, you can make one from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen can also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the required length, make a longitudinal cut, about halfway, and the dowel is ready."
"It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But just shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and the work will become much easier."
"A very durable, non-shrinking and fairly waterproof putty is made from bustylate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."
"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a particle board, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (not epoxy!), screw the screw in a day later. The board does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be placed under load through day. "
"It is more convenient to secure portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass not with nails, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The pins are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared with nails, the danger of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum."
"It is not so easy to screw a screw into hard wood. If you poke a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw itself generously with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."
To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and draw the edge border on the outside with a simple pencil. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of rolling.
To carry large sheets of plywood, glass or thin iron at home, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.
IF you need to saw a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely along the stick.
It will be better and easier to work with a hacksaw if in the middle part you increase the height of the teeth by 1/3.
If you attach a weight weighing about a kilogram to the front of the bow saw machine, the work will become easier. The load must be made removable so that the saw can be used to perform other work.
"A wax-like coating can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water tinted with watercolors. "
"Making a cover for an ax blade is as easy as shelling pears. Take a piece of rubber tube, cut it lengthwise and put it on the blade. It is protected from slipping off by a ring cut from old car mobile camera. "
" Avoid using clamps when gluing wooden frames A laundry cord will help. You should put four short loops on the corners of the frame and two long ones to tighten the frames diagonally. The angles are adjusted using sticks that twist the middle loops. "
"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, drive a wooden pin into it, lubricated with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty on the floor surface."
"To make it easier to sand a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it with an iron through a damp cloth - and the work will become easier."
"Slight rotting on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then soaked in a 10% formaldehyde solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."
Each of us has repeatedly faced the need to mount various objects on the walls that add variety to the interior, create comfort, or simply remind us of the pleasant moments of life. Most often you have to attach lamps and sconces, paintings and photographs, mirrors and shelves to a concrete surface, install an air conditioner, or a TV. If in the case of a small painting or photograph you can get by by driving a nail into the wall, then when the question is about more massive and heavy objects, the question of drilling holes arises. In order to avoid misunderstandings when working with concrete, for example, drill breakage or dullness, it is worth correctly preparing the partition, choosing quality tool and select the correct drill.
Choosing a tool and working with it
When choosing a tool to drill a hole, you should understand that your work depends on it. Good drill carefully drills into a concrete wall or other required material, simplifies the drilling process, while a bad one will require a lot of time, may not cope with the task, or will complicate it. What you need to pay attention to when choosing a drill:
- Is it possible to change the drilling speed? – this point is important, since correction of the speed mode will ensure accurate operation of the drill, helping it not to damage the surface.
- Is it possible to hammer drill and adjust the depth? – impact drilling can be used on problem areas, softening them.
- Is it possible to hold the drill with both hands? – a drill is not a light tool and therefore preference should be given to models that are equipped with handles.
- Is the tool's power sufficient for your job?
Having decided on a drill, before starting work you need to get the hang of holding it. To do this, you should take the drill in one hand, like a pistol, and place the other hand on the handle of the tool (if it is not intended by the design, the hand is placed near the chuck). It is necessary to hold the drill in your hands strictly horizontally, so that the hole does not turn out distorted or at the wrong angle. Before turning on the drill, wait until it reaches temperature environment. Sudden temperature changes can cause condensation. If you decide to rest while working, unplug the tool.
Surface preparation
It must be remembered that the wall is looser than the following layers. Before you start drilling, you need to make sure that there are no wiring, pipes, electrical cables. A metal detector will help you cope with this task, as it reacts to non-ferrous metals, iron and steel.
If you ignore this condition, you may stumble upon the fittings, damage the drill, or cables/pipes that were hidden in the ceiling. If this area satisfies all the above requirements, then a point is marked on the wall, and then a small indentation is made in it at slow speed using a drill. It is also worth remembering that the surface of a concrete wall is looser than subsequent layers.
Drill selection
This point can rightfully be considered the main one, since the quality of work and the safety of the drill itself, as well as the accuracy of the work, depend on the correctly selected drill. Today there is a huge variety of drills on the market: for working on wood, metal, concrete. The latter are distinguished by a triangular tip. For a concrete surface, it is best to use a carbide drill, such as a Pobedit one. This type of drill crushes the material without tearing it, which is ideal option for concrete floors.
If, when drilling a wall, the drill does not go forward when it encounters a dense area, it is recommended to use a punch. Having inserted the punch into the hole, hit it with a hammer until it begins to move forward and softens the problem area. After this you can continue drilling.
It should be noted that without a punch, a hammer drill can easily cope with this kind of difficulty, but it makes holes that exceed 13 mm in diameter. If you want to use universal drills when drilling, you need to remember that they require cooling, vibration is turned off and are only suitable for conventional drill.
A little about the structure of the drill and installation of the drill
Drilling diagram for a concrete wall. A classic drill consists of a power cable, a button, a capacitor wire, a reverse, brushes and springs, an armature, a stator, a gearbox and a chuck, bearings, a key and mounting screws. A correctly inserted drill improves the quality of drilling and can make it safer.
The first thing you should check when starting to work with a drill is whether there is any contamination on the drill itself. A rag will be an excellent assistant in cleaning drills. If the drill is loosely secured, there is a risk that it will fly out and injure the technician. Accordingly, it is necessary to immerse the drill as much as possible into the chuck (all the way!).
Under no circumstances try to “extend” the drill by incompletely immersing it in the chuck!
It is important to ensure that the drill in the tool is secured strictly along the axis. If this rule is not followed, drilling in concrete will be performed poorly, the shape of the hole may be unpredictable, and the cause of all these misunderstandings will be the elementary effect of drill beating.
How to drill or punch a hole in concrete, various methods.
Many experts know that drilling holes in concrete is not an easy task. Even if you use a Victory drill, it is not a fact that the hole will be drilled without problems.
What is the reason? The thing is that a proper concrete wall (especially one built in Soviet times) consists of a quarter of reinforcing bars and stones. And only those who know can drill through all this reliable splendor correct sequence actions. I invite you to join the cohort of those who know by reading the detailed instructions.
Holes in concrete: step-by-step instructions
1. We take a punch and break the stones with it. This special drill, which you can easily find in any construction kit, is simply inserted into the drill and used in the same way as a Pobedit or diamond drill, the cost of which is not as high as it seems. As for the reinforcement, its cutting is carried out with a conventional drill.
2. If you are going to use a carbide drill, then to speed up the drilling process, I recommend using asymmetric sharpening. Before you start drilling a concrete wall, you need to make a mark with a drill with a standard sharpening. This will help give you the right start. WITH concrete wall A hammer drill made from a 6-8 mm drill also works well, the end of which is sharpened like swallowtail. The drill must be constantly turned and struck. Drilling a hole for a socket with such a tool requires no more than 2-3 minutes.
3. Drilling or drilling holes in concrete should be accompanied by regular wetting of the working drill with water. This will help extend its service life. An elastic plastic bottle is often used as a reservoir.
4 . When you drill a hole in concrete ceiling, follow safety precautions. Plaster crumbs will fly under your sleeves, behind your collar and into your eyes. To protect yourself from them, you need to make it out of polyethylene transparent film a regular funnel that fits directly onto the drill.
5. When installing a chandelier, you will definitely have to drill a hole in the ceiling for subsequent sealing and installation of a metal hook. If you want to protect the plaster from almost inevitable crumbling, use a regular rubber ball, cut into two parts. A hole is made in one half of the ball, after which it is put on a bolt or punch.
How to punch a hole in concrete?
To punch a hole in a brick or concrete wall, you need to use special bolts, which are made from metal pipes. In the upper part, the bolts must be welded with steel rods using gas or forge welding. These rods will subsequently be struck. If the rods are not welded, the pipe will quickly wear out. On the working part, the teeth must be cemented with cast iron surfacing. It doesn’t hurt to separate them, which will help achieve greater stability of the bolts in operation. If you want to protect yourself from getting your tool stuck while punching holes, you need to rotate the bolt around its axis, remove it regularly, and clean it of concrete or brick dust. The bolt can be used as long as punching a hole in the wall 5 centimeters deep will not result in dulling or coloring of the teeth.
How to punch a hole using a scarpel?
Scarpel is a tool designed for drilling or cutting holes in brick and concrete walls, cutting niches, openings and grooves. Driving the scarpel into concrete may be accompanied by jamming, which should be avoided. If jamming does occur, then under no circumstances hit the scarpel from the side “in a bend.” This will lead to something irreparable. Modern scarpels, which help drill a hole of any size, are made from St.6 steel. The following requirements apply to them. When cutting a strip of steel marked St. 0, 5 centimeters wide and 4 millimeters thick, crumbled places, dents or signs of dullness should not appear on the working part of the tool. At the same time, the question of how to repair the resulting defects is simply not raised.
Mechanized hole punching
If a hole in a concrete wall cannot be made manually, mechanized punching using an electric hammer is used. This tool consists of a body and a striker holder, an electric motor and a converter mechanism. The use of an electric hammer is accompanied by the operation of a striking mechanism with the movements of the striker occurring as a result of the active actions of the converting mechanism. Mechanized punching using an electric hammer, without subsequent sealing, is characterized by a tip strike frequency of 2400 times per minute (standard load). Rental prices for such instruments are quite high.
-
Calculation of a water heating system for a private house.
-
Which facade paint better for concrete for outdoor work, reviews.
-
How to glue ceiling wallpaper and wallpaper for the ceiling to be painted?
-
What is fiberboard (fibreboard) - types, sheet composition, application.