The ideal flower for vertical gardening is a climbing rose, planting and caring for which certain rules must be followed. With their help, it is possible to create columns, arches, garlands and pyramids, they are used to decorate gazebos, walls of houses, fences. Compositions that include several varieties at the same time are especially impressive.
Plants require good lighting and little breeze. With a lack of sunlight, the ripening of the stems, which are to bloom in next year... However, in order to lengthen the flowering period, you should choose places in which there was shade for at least 2-3 hours a day.
It is not recommended to plant a climbing rose in a sun-drenched place: the petals can burn out, and the stems get burned. You should not choose the corners of buildings: roses cannot stand drafts. The most suitable place will be where the sun will heat the bushes right in the morning, as a result, dew will quickly evaporate, and damage by powdery mildew can be avoided.
Climbing roses are planted in spring and autumn. In plants planted in spring, shoots and leaves develop faster, but there is no time to form a strong root system- for this she does not have enough time. When planted in autumn, rooting occurs quickly, in spring the plants are fully prepared for flowering.
In harsher climates autumn plantings undesirable: roses that did not have time to get stronger by winter may not stand frost and die.
It is preferable to plant them in the spring, so that before the onset of cold weather they have time to develop and prepare for them.
The soil is dug up several months before the intended planting, humus, peat, lime are introduced into it. On the eve of planting, manure should be added (if the soil is acidic - dolomite flour) and watered abundantly.
The bush also requires special preparation. Shoots and roots are pruned, leaving 20-30 cm, so that in the future the bush blooms profusely. Places of root pruning are powdered with ash, shoots are treated with garden varnish to protect against infections.
The size of the pit for climbing roses should be 50x50 cm. When planting, the root collar of the bush is positioned so that it is covered by a layer of earth by about 10 cm. When planting several rose bushes near the planting site, there should be a distance to the support of at least 45 cm. It is recommended to mulch the soil under the bush with grass or sawdust.
The plant is drought-resistant, watering is required once a week. With waterlogging, the appearance of the rose worsens, and some diseases may develop. Growing climbing roses in regions with severe frost requires shelter.
Caring for care
In preparation for winter, pruning is performed: unripe shoots are removed. As soon as the air temperature drops to -5 ° C, it is necessary to remove the shoots from the supports and lay them down (having previously poured dry grass, spruce branches on the ground). From above, the shoots are covered with straw or dry leaves, then with a film. In the spring, the shelter is removed and the roses are placed on the supports.
It is important to clean the shelter on time: with high humidity and lack of fresh air they can get sick. Returning to the supports after removing the shelter, they are laid in a spiral or horizontally, so that roses with renewed vigor begin to form flowers, and not new shoots.
Properly caring for roses means timely pruning, which maintains a healthy look and promotes abundant flowering. In the spring, weak and frozen branches are cut, after flowering - faded shoots. This helps to rejuvenate the bush and replace the shoots with new ones.
Do not forget about plant nutrition: during the growing season, complex fertilizers intended for roses or mullein infusion are applied. It is recommended to alternate organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers or use at the same time. Before flowering, 5 dressings are required; from the beginning of flowering, manure should not be used.
In the process of growing, reproduction is of no small importance. Reproduction by layering is recommended in the spring: the shoot is bent to the ground, some are sprinkled with soil with the addition of humus and watered regularly. By the spring of next year, the shoot takes root, it is separated from the mother plant, and then grown as an independent plant.
When propagating by cuttings, they are cut from the middle of the shoot (there should be at least 4 buds) at the end of flowering. After planting the cuttings in the ground, it is necessary to water and loosen them.
Climbing rose: reproduction and care (video)
Major diseases and pests
They are more often affected by powdery mildew and bark cancer. Powdery mildew occurs in hot weather with high humidity, white spots are visible on the leaves, gradually increasing in size. Growth and flowering cease, the plant may die. It is necessary to treat with Bordeaux liquid.
Often, bark cancer is found after removing the shelter. Small bright brown spots are visible on the bark. Gradually they grow, capture the shoot completely. Remove affected areas and incinerate. For preventive purposes, the plant should be covered and the shelter should be removed in a timely manner, and also nitrogen fertilizers should not be used for feeding in the fall.
Climbing roses can infect aphids and spider mites, to combat them, they are treated with an infusion of horsetail (if there are few pests) or insecticidal agents.
Despite the fact that growing climbing roses is not entirely easy and requires care, their beauty allows you to transform both the garden area and the exquisite garden.
How to plant and care for a climbing rose (video)
Gallery: climbing roses (15 photos)
Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this marvelous flower in the open field will be discussed in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, you can turn even the most modest plot into a beautiful romantic corner.
Climbing rose - description of the type and planting features
The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You must have admired the flower arches more than once. amazing beauty... Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.
The color scheme of this type of roses is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Buds range in size from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:
- Semi-plaited, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
- Climbing - 3-5 meters.
- Curly - 5-15 meters.
The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both single-flowering species and re-flowering species.
Climbing rose, photo:
The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance, some smell slightly audible, subtle and gentle. This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loam or fertile soil with good soil permeability. If your site is dominated by an unsuitable soil for a climbing rose, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay is added to the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition to this, humus or humus should be added, as well as phosphorus additives.
All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to plant climbing roses where their brothers did not grow before. If it doesn't work out differently, then you need to replace it before planting. upper layer land (50-70 cm). Ideally, the climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that in the chosen place groundwater do not pass close to the topsoil.
If you decide to "drape" a part of the house wall with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, a climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold snaps, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom lush color... If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / first weeks of May are the most optimal terms for spring planting.
Planting a climbing rose in the ground in spring
I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from autumn ones. All stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in spring will lag a little in development, require increased attention from you to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.
So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the hole should be 60-70 cm.If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downwards and do not bend upwards!
Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose. After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.
In some cases, summer residents cover plastic wrap freshly planted bushes - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to decide whether to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.
How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?
Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with open or closed root systems.
Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not withstand wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried out fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.
Climbing rose varieties with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.
The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.
Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the "joint" site, which promotes fusion. If the graft site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.
Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:
- A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen lump, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with charcoal or activated charcoal.
- The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system should be carefully examined. Stimulant "Kornevin" can be added to the water (according to the instructions).
- We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the hole should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it), it has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
- After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
- If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or cloth. light shades- so it is guaranteed not to burn. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.
Climbing roses - care and cultivation
In hot and dry weather, rosebushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully shake off the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn are also opened after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day, so that later the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains about 10 cm buried in the soil.
During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per one bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. For roses, both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so observe the golden mean in this matter.
Climbing rose, photo:
How to fertilize climbing roses
Fertilization is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should be alternated with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rose" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg wood ash diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting composition at the very root. From about the second week of July, you can start slowly adding phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.
Climbing rose care in the first year
How does it differ from standard requirements? The further development and splendor of flowering depends on competent care in the first year of a plant's life. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after removing the hilling soil, you can start the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes "looking" inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.
Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, as odd as it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations carried out, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.
Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose
Is the climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.
Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt them to the ground. With the help of metal brackets (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then they are covered with an appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering canvas. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but reliably wrapped with protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud up as described above.
How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to form the crown of the plant correctly, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm, in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.
Starting from the second year of the plant's life, the branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.
How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are absent, then the old branches should be measured about 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacing basal branches.
The rest (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a guide. Short peduncle branches are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.
How to prune a climbing rose in the spring? You should pick up the pruner when the buds begin to swell on the branches from below (last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then with night frosts, the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss pruning time, then the plant will throw all its energy into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.
Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also, at this time, all sick, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when the buds swell on the “living” branches.
Transplanting a climbing rose to another place
Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.
However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug in (moving in a circular manner), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant.Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the hole be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.
When replanting, the same rules are observed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and watered generously with water.
After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.
There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the climber and rambler groups. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:
- climbers;
- ramblers.
Climbing varieties of climbing roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half of their entire length!
Rambler are precisely curly roses with flexible and soft shoots-lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rumbler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must be pinched tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.
How to propagate a climbing rose?
There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layers, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is only possible if the seed is purchased at the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.
Growing a climbing rose from seeds
Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. Then we remove the seeds from the solution, spread them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover it on top with a similar cotton layer, which is also saturated with peroxide.
Place the resulting "sandwich" in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for herbs and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).
After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be gently transferred to peat tablets or small plastic cups with an appropriate dredge. Seedling cassettes are also fine.
Watering young shoots should be done as the soil dries up. For plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily light for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.
Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings
This is the easiest breeding method, almost always giving 100% positive results. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, in the 10th of July, are suitable for you.
The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.
Further, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A stalk is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and removed to a well-lit place.
Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the can) and make sure that it does not come into direct sunlight.
Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering
In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we choose the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make out a small groove-bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After that, we cover the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.
Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on rose hips
A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation - the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the dog rose should be watered generously with water.
Directly on the root collar of the bush, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter "T", after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. This kind of "pocket" holds a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.
Next, we tightly press the peephole to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place special film for budding (sold freely in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rose hip bush is earthed up, and so that the soil rises above the grafting site by 5 cm (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring, it is removed for good.
Climbing rose does not bloom - why?
This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experimentally, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.
Climbing rose - diseases and pests
Caterpillar of a rose-cut sawfly on a rose 
Spider mite rose On initial stage aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as she feels like a full owner, you will need help chemicals... Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.
If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap(1 tbsp. L.) And dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.
The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough to treat roses twice with this preparation for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.
According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, which extends not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.
In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of the spring and autumn spraying roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.
Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burned bark).
Powdery mildew 
Bacterial cancer There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of the disease.
Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.
The defeat of the coniotirium can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate, the ground around the bush must be watered too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case while the buds have not yet blossomed.
In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution ferrous sulfate(3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.
Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties
The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight the eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering staunchly. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.
Climbing rose "Iceberg"
It fully lives up to its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and profusely. Repeated blooming is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows rather quickly and in as soon as possible can braid an arch or wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.
Variety "Iceberg", photo:
Climbing rose "Lavinia"
It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light Muscat notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, blooms continuously until the first frost.
Variety "Lavinia", photo:
Variety "Polka"
It is characterized by undulating blooms, approximately five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot shade, gradually turning into a creamy color. Loves sunlit places very much, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, weak aroma.
Photo of a climbing rose of the "Polka" variety:
Climbing rose "Don Juan"
Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of deep red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms without problems in partial shade. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.
Variety "Don Juan", photo:
Variety "Flamentants"
This rose is considered one of the most attractive red climbing roses. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), double, multi-petal. Possesses increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.
Photo of roses "Flamement":
Climbing rose "Handel"
The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. Rose blooming, medium resistance to disease, one should beware black spot and ashtrays.
Variety "Handel", photo:
Variety "Bobby James"
Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, resistant to disease, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that behind them you can hardly see the foliage. The buds themselves tend to open slowly over a period of about 10-12 days. A spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety
Photo of a rose variety "Bobby James":
Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"
A re-flowering variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.
Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:
Variety "Parade"
One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, is resistant to precipitation.
Roses of the "Parade" variety, photo:
Climbing rose "Schwanensee"
Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink heart. Schwannensee blooms until the very frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate refined aroma. The variety is hardy, multi-flowering, rain-resistant. The bush can reach 3 m in height.
Variety "Schwannensee", photo:
Variety "Casino"
This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when loose. A multi-petal variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.
Climbing rose of the "Casino" variety, photo:
Of course, a climbing rose will require an investment of time and effort from you, but, you must admit, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices." Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of a place of residence for a rose.
Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.
Provide her with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.
Let a climbing rose also settle on your site. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and transplantation, a rough idea of individual varieties - you now know all this and can apply my advice in practice.
The following videos will successfully complement the article:
Climbing roses, like spray roses, are among the most popular forms in garden design... True, their purpose is completely different: if bush species are grown as tapeworms or bright accents, then climbing ones are most often used to decorate gazebos, pergolas, arcade racks, or, like wild grapes, let them curl along the walls of buildings.
Climbing roses (Rosa x hybrida hort) belong to the family Rosaceaea. This view unites all climbing varieties of roses and was bred from 2 wild growing groups of roses: R. multiflora Thunb and R. wichuraiana Crep.
Flexible long shoots spread or arched rise, small leaves are hard, small flowers reach 2.2–5 cm in diameter, petals are simple or double. Flowers are collected in large inflorescences. The aroma is faint or absent altogether. The color of the petals can be white, pink or red. It blooms once, but for a long time (about 30–35 days). Flowers are located along the entire length of the shoots. Varieties of this type are winter hardiness, and therefore a hard dry shelter is suitable for them.
Blooming in most varieties of climbing roses occurs once, and occurs in early summer, while only last year's whips bloom. Therefore, it is so important for these plants to survive the winter well in order to preserve last year's whips.
According to the description, climbing roses are very similar to spray roses. They have the same beautiful and richly colored leaves. The shoots are 1.5–5 m long, which makes it possible to plant trees on rather tall objects.
How to plant a climbing rose (with video)
Usually a climbing rose is planted on sunny side at home so that she gets sunlight most of the day. sunlight important not only for the current flowering, but also for the formation of new strong shoots responsible for flowering next year. However, it is advisable to plant them in places where they can be in the shade for a couple of hours a day, which will make the flowering period longer.
Each of the gardeners who love to plant beautiful flowers in their suburban area should know the following. The rose does not like stagnant water, so the groundwater should lie at a depth of no more than one and a half meters. A pit for planting a rose must be made in a special way and carefully make sure that it is 0.5 by 0.5 meters in size. It is important. Further, part of the excavated soil sinks to the bottom, and river sand and a bucket of humus are added to the pit in a slide. And it would be very good if the owner suburban area I attended to the purchase of such a fertilizer as superphosphate.
It must be put in the hole in the proportion of 3-4 tablespoons. Based on the fact that the elongated lashes of the plant will need to be correctly laid on winter period, you do not need to plant plants close to each other.
The stems of the seedlings must be pruned by 30 centimeters, and then the rhizomes must be soaked in liquid clay. In addition, the rose is very fond of such a simple fertilizer known to every novice gardener as cow dung... In a village where a shepherd takes the cows for a walk, there will be no problems with him. In addition, manure is sold by specialized companies that work in this area.
Climbing roses are planted so that the root collar is covered with a layer of earth about 10 cm. If several rose bushes are planted nearby, then the distance between them is at least one meter. If a rose is planted for landscaping a fence or wall of a house, then the distance from the planting site to the support should be about 45 cm.
It is advisable to mulch the soil under the roses with sawdust, grass or straw. During flowering, it is important to remove wilted flowers in time so that the flowering period lasts longer.
This video shows how to plant a climbing rose:
The following describes how to grow climbing roses in the country and how to care for these flowers.
How to grow climbing roses in the country and how to properly care for them in the garden
The climbing rose is drought-resistant and should be watered no more than once a week.
You need to feed the rose 3-4 times during the growing season either with mullein infusion or with a complex fertilizer for roses.
Due to the large weight of the rose branches, it needs a fairly strong support, preferably wooden (it will prevent the plant from freezing in winter). In regions with cold winters, roses need shelter. With the onset of frost from minus 5 ° C, the shoots are removed from the supports, laid on the ground. It is better to put on dry leaves or spruce branches, and cover with the same materials. A film is laid on top of this natural protection. In the spring, the shelter is removed and the rose is returned to the support.
When laying the branches of a rose on a support, it should be remembered that the shoots must be fixed not vertically, but horizontally, obliquely or in a spiral, then the forces of the plant will be directed not to the growth of shoots, but to the formation of flowers.
When caring for climbing roses in the open field, pruning is a necessary event. This is the key to a healthy appearance and abundant flowering. In the spring, it is necessary to prune frozen and weak branches, and after flowering, it is advisable to prune those shoots that have faded, which will be an excellent incentive for the formation of new shoots of replacement and rejuvenation of the bush.
This plant is especially beautiful in bloom. But to grow a climbing rose in the middle latitudes of Russia, you need to make a lot of effort. The plant is planted in early spring. To do this, the gardener must choose a specific place on his site. It should not be very cold, but not hot, in direct sunlight. If we talk about what kind of soil is optimal for such a rose, then it is best to start a loamy and fertile soil on the site.
Thus, in order to grow climbing roses as lush as possible, pleasing with their sophistication and beauty, it is necessary to carry out a number of manipulations:
- plant the seedling in the right way;
- feed the seedling in a timely manner;
- shelter for the winter cold;
- open on time in the spring - with the onset of heat;
- trim properly.
When growing climbing roses in the open field, it is necessary to carry out preventive control of pests and plant diseases.
Planting and caring for climbing roses is shown in this video:
How to propagate climbing roses by cuttings
Cutting is a method known to both the amateur and the professional. The question arises as to the reason for such popularity. The answer lies in the number of plants obtained and the high probability of rooting. A shoot is selected 10 days after flowering, on which there should be about three buds ready to grow.
Before propagating climbing roses, cuttings must be prepared. This is done in advance. The width of the cuttings should vary from 0.5-0.7 cm, the length - from 16 to 20 cm. The cut should be straight at the top, and at an angle of 45 degrees at the bottom. A beveled cut under the kidney at the bottom is necessary for roots to grow from the kidney. At the next stage, the cuttings must be kept in the growth solution "Kornevin" or "Heteroauxin" for 12 hours. Finally, the seedling must be planted in soil with a mixture of earth and sand.
Reproduction of cuttings in water is also possible. After that, it is worth covering the future roses with a jar or, in the case of using water, cover it with a film. This is done to maintain the right amount of moisture around the plant.
When propagating climbing roses, it is important to observe following conditions: constant air temperature from 22 to 24 degrees; adequate lighting; do not remove the film or jar until rooting.
Roses are planted on rose hips in order to get earth-resistant seedlings more quickly and cheaper. And roses of own-rooted properties can lead to such a result only after three years. This is less profitable for producers due to the rise in the cost of seedlings due to the increase in their cost. Own-rooted roses are obtained by cutting a cutting with three buds. And in order to plant a rosehip, only one bud is used. It is more profitable for the manufacturer.
The next section of the article is devoted to how to choose climbing roses suitable for the climatic conditions of Russia.
How to choose climbing roses: winter hardiness of plants
It is worth considering that in the conditions middle lane In Russia, the length of the shoots on the bushes is more modest, and the flowering is not so long and plentiful. The main disadvantage of climbing roses in this zone is the need to shelter them for the winter, for which every year, in late autumn, the lashes have to be removed from the supports, bent in the ground and covered.
Another secret when breeding climbing roses is the correct selection of varieties. Of the many varieties offered by firms and shopping centers, not all will grow well and bloom profusely on your site. Sometimes you have to try a lot of varieties in order to find the most suitable one for a given place. However, for true flower lovers, these difficulties are not an obstacle. Often, in our relatively harsh zone, you can see garden compositions with abundantly blooming roses.
Climbing rose culture in Europe is about 200 years old. During this time, dozens of varieties and forms of climbing roses have been bred, however, European varieties have not become widespread in our country, like the culture of climbing roses itself, due to the insufficient winter hardiness of European varieties in Russia.
Until now, it has not been possible to find a single reliable wintering variety even for the south of the Black Earth Region, where short-term winter frosts down to –28… –30 ° C are not uncommon.
In a frosty winter, the entire aboveground part freezes to the level of snow in bushes of European varieties, while an excellent decorative effect can only be given by powerful, developed bushes, in which the shoots of previous years of development have wintered well. None of these varieties has a natural fall of leaves in our conditions. The leaves remain green until frost and then freeze over. Unripe annual shoots die off during winter frosts, becoming a "gateway" for the penetration of a fungal, viral infection and usually lead to the death of the entire bush.
Such roses can winter in Russia only under cover, for which the shoots must be annually removed from the supports, tied, cleaned of foliage, cut out non-lignified shoots and covered with spruce branches, burlap, spunbond. Since the covering procedure is complicated and time-consuming, covering varieties of roses have no prospects in mass gardening.
Search winter hardy species climbing roses and breeding non-covering roses for the conditions of Russia is one of the urgent and interesting tasks.
The work on breeding winter-hardy non-covering roses for Russian gardens is currently being carried out by Cand. s.-kh. sciences, head. department scientific research and innovative developments of the Rossoshansk zonal experimental gardening station in Voronezh. A.I.Sychev.
Breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses (with photo)
Taking into account that the genetic material for breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses must be sought among poorly studied species of roses or hybrids with frost-resistant species as one of the parents.
The researcher's attention was drawn to roses Cordesa is a cultic new group of roses created in the middle of the last century by the German rose breeder V. Cordes.
The basis of the new group of roses is a spontaneous hybrid of Vihurayana climbing rose and wrinkled rose (R. rugosa).
A hybrid called "Max Graf" ("Max Graf") refers to claymers, blooms profusely with simple flowers, but does not bear fruit due to the genetic remoteness of the parents. On the bushes of this variety, which grew in the Cordes nursery, a kidney mutation occurred, as a result of which the number of chromosomes doubled and two fruits were set on the matted branch. One of the seedlings grown from the seeds of these fruits turned out to be a tetraploid and became the founder of a new group of roses. Thanks to the genes of the wrinkled rose, which can withstand frosts down to –40 ° C and more without shelter, Cordes roses are much more winter-hardy than the old varieties of climbing roses. However, the genes of the Vihurayan rose do not allow Cordes roses to winter in Russia without shelter.
This statement also applies to the most winter-hardy of the climbing roses of Cordes - the "Flammentants" variety. ("Flammentanz") - the best red climbing rose for the climate of Russia, grown in a covering culture. Bright red semi-double flowers of this variety are collected in small inflorescences. The first flowering of the variety in early summer is extremely abundant, and during the second wave of flowering, 40-50 flowers are formed at the ends of the shoots.
Rose "Flammentants" can be used as a genetic basis for breeding winter-hardy uncovered roses. To do this, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of its offspring by 6–7 ° С, expand the color palette and increase the broadness.
Due to the tetraploid nature, Cordes roses easily cross with modern varieties of hybrid teas, floribunda and klaimings. Hybrids with "Flammentants" have large double, semi-double and simple flowers, collected in small inflorescences of mainly red, raspberry and pink colors. Their flowering, as a rule, is one-time, but some hybrids have the ability to abundant repeated flowering. In terms of winter hardiness, they are significantly superior to hybrid tea roses, but slightly inferior to "Flammentants". One of best hybrids received the name "Nostalgia". It is a vigorous climbing rose with shoots up to 4–5 m long with large dark red double flowers.
Attempts to cross "Flammentants" with winter-hardy ones were unsuccessful. park roses, for example, a variety of winter-hardy prickly rose (R. pimpinellifolia) - "Fryulingsgold". Most of the hybrids turned out to be bush-like, with light flowers with a "weak", fine texture of petals and low winter hardiness. Pollination of "Flammentants" with rosehip pollen
Rose Vihurayana (« R. wichuraiana"), Originally from Korea, southern Japan, China, more often grows as a creeping plant. The climbing shoots of this species are covered with shiny evergreen small foliage, which it passes on to its varieties. The winter hardiness of this species and varieties derived from it is even lower than that of a multi-flowered rose.
The most widespread variety "Excels" (« Excelsa») Is damaged by frost at –18… –20 ° C. However, despite the need for annual shelter, this rose is widely grown in central Russia as one of the most stable, unpretentious and abundantly flowering climbing varieties.
Climbing roses from the group of climbers are most often climbing clones of common low-hardy hybrid tea roses, floribunda roses, remontant roses and differ little from them in terms of winter hardiness. The shoots of these roses freeze at –15… –20 ° C.
V last years new winter-hardy roses of Canadian selection were brought to our country. One of the climbing roses, "William Baffin" ( "William Buffin"), after three years of testing in Rossosh showed a higher winter hardiness than that of "Flammentants".
The search for winter-hardy species among wild-growing ramblers was crowned with the discovery of Maksimovich's rose growing in northern China, Korea, and quite common in southern Primorye ( R. maximowicziana).
Maksimovich's rose is a shrub with climbing or creeping shoots 5–6 m long. Leathery, shiny, decorative leaves consist of 7–9 pairs of leaves, 2–4 cm long leaves, reminiscent of the evergreen leaves of Vihurajana rose. In nature, the rose forms thickets on stony and sandy soils along the coastal slopes and in the floodplains of rivers no further than 20–40 km from the sea coast. It is very important that the development of Maksimovich's rose completely fits into the growing season of the middle lane, in the fall there is a natural leaf fall, and in September the fruits fully ripen. Fully winter-hardy rose in Rossosh, in Moscow (GBS) and in the south of western Siberia.
Flowers of Maksimovich's rose with a diameter of 2.5–5 cm, collected in 5–7 corymbose-paniculate inflorescences, creamy yellow petals. The shoots of Maksimovich's rose overwinter in Voronezh and in the Moscow region directly on the supports, without shelter, in spring they are not damaged, in summer the bushes bloom profusely. In Moscow, the Maksimovich rose at 10 years old reaches a height of 2.6 m, the diameter of the bush is up to 3 m.
These photos show varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses:
Rose Maksimovich sets fruit well when pollinated with pollen of climbing diploid varieties of small-flowered roses.
Among hundreds of seedlings from pollination with pollen of the varieties "Thuzendschon", "Ave Maria" (« Ave maria") And unnamed local roses, the breeder selected copies with decorative flowers and, more importantly, the timely completion of the growing season.
The most interesting are the seedlings from the Maksimovich rose family × "Thuzendschon".
They are distinguished by strong climbing growth (up to 5 m in length), have double or semi-double flowers of various structures, petal shapes, colors and flowering periods. The size of the flowers is medium-sized, which corresponds to the size of flowers in the group of ramblers, but the flowers are collected in a cluster from 3-5 to 20-30 pieces. There are seedlings with fragrant flowers.
Look at the photo of the varieties of climbing roses, the description of which is given above:
How climbing roses of different groups bloom
According to the world classification, among climbing roses, two groups are distinguished:
Rambler (Ramblers) and climbers (Large flowered climbers).
The first group includes wild species from the section Synstylae and garden forms closely related to them. As a rule, these are powerful, with a height of shoots up to 3-6 m, once flowering species in early summer, with small simple flowers in multi-flowered inflorescences. The second group includes complex hybrids, products of long-term selection with large flowers and repeated (remontant) flowering.
Roses from the rambler group are the most winter-hardy and promising for introduction to Russia. An analysis of the pedigree of modern European climbing roses - ramblers showed that two wild species from China and Japan were used as the initial genetic material.
See how climbing roses of different groups bloom in these photos:
The first is a multi-flowered or polyanthus rose (R. multiflora). In mild winters, it winters well in Russia without shelter, but in frosts down to –30 ° C, the shoots are frozen to the level of snow. In the old gardening manuals, the varieties of this rose are called among the most winter-hardy climbing roses for Russia.In order to obtain beautifully flowering varieties, the multi-flowered rose was crossed with non-resistant remontant, hybrid tea, tea roses, therefore the varieties have a lower winter hardiness.
In our country, old varieties of multiflorous roses are widespread, for example, "Tausenschon" (« Tausendschon"). Varieties of multiflorous roses retain large stipules, characteristic of the species, fringed along the edges.
Climbing rose varieties: photos, names and descriptions
Among the most common varieties of climbing roses are the following:
Aglaya (Aglaia) has large flowers, collected in large inflorescences, double petals, straw-yellowish color. The spreading bush blooms profusely.
"Alberic Barbier" (Alberic barbier) has medium-sized yellow buds. The name of this variety of climbing roses was given by the French breeders who bred this form. The flowers are large, collected in small inflorescences, double petals, creamy yellow at the edges and yellow in the center. The aroma is fragrant. Shiny leaves beautiful shape, dark in color. The climbing bush blooms profusely starting in June.
American Pillar (American pillar) are distinguished by open large flowers, reaching a diameter of 7 cm, collected in large inflorescences and located on strong shoots. Non-double petals, carmine color pink, the eye is white, the stamens are golden. Leathery leaves large size, shiny. When describing this variety of climbing roses, it is especially worth noting their height and power - strong bushes reach a height of 6 m, bloom profusely from May to June.
"Blaze" (Blaze) has large cupped flowers, collected in large inflorescences. The petals are semi-double, bright red. The aroma is faint. Leaves are leathery. A strong bush with a spreading crown blooms profusely and repeatedly. The variety is propagated by che2PHOTO-grafting, grafting and layering.
"Wartburg" (Wartburg) has small flowers, collected in large inflorescences, double petals, crimson-pink color. The aroma is fragrant. A vigorous shrub with smooth shoots devoid of thorns, blooms profusely.
"Gayavata" (Hiawatha) differs in small flowers, reaching a diameter of 3.5 cm, which are collected in inflorescences of 10-30 pieces. Petals are non-double, carmine red, white in the center. Leathery leaves are shiny. A strong bush reaches a height of 3 m, flowering occurs later than other varieties of this species.
Dorothy Perkins (Dorothy perkins) has small flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, collected in large inflorescences. The petals are densely double, bright pink with salmon tint. Large leaves are shiny, dark green in color. Strong climbing bush blooms profusely in June.
"Crimson Rembler" (Crimson Rambler) has flowers average size collected in large pyramidal brushes. The petals of a bright crimson-red color, when they fade, acquire a bluish tint. Large leathery leaves of light green color. The bush is strong, climbing.
"Climbing minnehaha" (Minnehaha) differs in medium-sized flowers, collected in inflorescences. Double petals, pink. The aroma is weak. The vigorous bush reaches a height of 3.5–4 m, blooms once in late spring - early summer, propagates by cuttings and layering.
Feilchenblau (Veilchenblau) has small cupped flowers. The petals are semi-double, bright purple. The aroma is fragrant.
Here are photos of varieties of climbing roses, the description of which is given above:
Climbing roses in garden design and photos of plants during flowering
Vertical gardening is essential in garden design. And it's not just decorative effect, but also in the ability to divide the site into zones, hide from curious neighbors or disguise an unsightly structure.
There are many plants that are used in vertical gardening, and the rose plays an important role among them.
Climbing roses can be used very widely in garden design. For example, decorate a fence, a building wall or a gazebo. You can braid an arch, pergola over a gate, bench or walkway, or decorate retaining wall... Can be planted near special supports installed in flower beds, front gardens, lawns.
Moreover, for each composition, you should select the varieties that are most suitable for each other in texture, doubleness and color of flowers and other decorative features.
Climbing roses are prime plants for vertical landscaping, wall decoration, public spaces and recreational areas. In China and Japan, these plants have been used in landscaping for many centuries.
See how climbing roses look in the garden in these photos:
For the successful cultivation of these plants, you need to know about one of their features: the more evenly the lash is illuminated, the more flower buds are formed along the entire length of the shoot. And although modern varieties bloom quite evenly, this nuance must not be forgotten. How to care for climbing roses in the garden to achieve optimal lighting? This can be done by placing the whips horizontally or at least with a slight slope.
If you know about this property, then thanks to a competent garter and the formation of lashes, you can increase the number of flowers, which will significantly affect the overall decorative effect.
Flexible shoot varieties such as Super Excelsa, Super Dorothy, should be used to decorate narrow arches and pergolas, pillars or obelisks.
When forming a lash, you can tie it to an arch with a snake or simply wrap it in a spiral around a pillar or obelisk. This simple trick will allow the rose to bloom more abundantly.
Large-flowered roses like Flamentanz, in which the shoots are more powerful, it is preferable to decorate with wide decorative lattices: it is convenient to lay the lashes on them in a fan.
If the variety has good shoot-forming ability, then pruning can also achieve uniform flowering. To do this, the shoots are cut at different heights, which stimulates their growth.
In addition to the usual options for using climbing roses, there are also not quite standard ones. You can use a rose to decorate the old fruit tree... In this case, it is best to plant it on the south side, finding a place between the tree roots and retreating 50 cm from the trunk. You can also dig in a root restraint (such as a piece of old linoleum or plastic) and a piece of wide pipe or plastic bottle without a bottom for spot irrigation and rose feeding. Then the whips need to be tied to the trunk in the intended direction.
Another interesting trick is using a climbing rose as a ground cover plant. It will look especially advantageous on a slope. Shoots can simply be laid on the ground, or even better, slightly raised and secured on low arcs. The river of flowers flowing down the slope will amaze the imagination of all your guests.
Climbing rose varieties that grow well in width and have tough shoots, such as Rozarium Uetersen, suitable for solitary planting on the lawn. They can be given the required forum (shaped) by trimming, as is the case with scrubs.
Some vigorous varieties of English roses can be formed as short plants. To care for climbing roses correctly, as advised by experienced growers, you need to maintain the length of the shoots, moderately cut and form whips on the support. Wide screens or obelisks are suitable as a support.
For this role, varieties such as are good:
Crown Princess Margaretha
Gertrude Jekyll
A shropshire lad
The Pilgrim and others.
As for companions for climbing roses, the best of them are clematis. When selecting clematis, you need to achieve harmonious combinations using the technique of contrast in shape or color. You also need to take into account the flowering time of both types; it is clear that they must bloom at the same time. Finally, it is necessary to take into account the growth pattern of the selected varieties of both rose and clematis. Clematis usually develop faster, so it is preferable to first plant a rose, give it at least a year to root and grow, and only then plant clematis next to it.
It is necessary to maintain a certain distance between the climbing rose and clematis, at least 60 cm. Moreover, if the rose needs to be directed to a support, then it is enough to help clematis only at the very beginning. And then this steeplejack will do a great job on his own, using a rose as a support.
As you know, in the middle lane both roses and clematis need to be covered for the winter. In this regard, they often argue which clematis are preferable - the second or third pruning group (read more about this in the third chapter), which of them are more convenient to cover with roses. It seems to many that the varieties of the third group are much better suited: for the winter, the whips can simply be cut at a height of 20 cm, there is no need to unravel and remove anything from the rose. In reality, varieties of both groups may be suitable. The fact is that many clematis of the third group are very powerful, tall, with big amount shoots and not every climbing rose can withstand such a neighborhood. Sometimes it is worth choosing the graceful and modest clematis of the second group. And it is not so difficult to cover them: it is enough to cut the lashes at the level of a meter, cut the foliage and cover the clematis along with the rose.
The bottom of a climbing rose can become bare with age. To decorate the lower part, you can plant roses of a different group around, such as ground cover or floribunda, or companion plants that match the color.
In the climate of the middle zone, it is not so easy to grow a climbing rose. In order for her to appear in all its glory, she needs to provide favorable wintering conditions. When planning a flower garden, you must immediately foresee where you will put these, in general, rather big roses for the winter. To avoid disappointment, when choosing a climbing rose variety, pay attention to its winter hardiness and resistance to disease and precipitation. Read on the Internet reviews about it left by rose growers from your climatic zone. Study the agronomic requirements, the most important of which is competent pruning. In addition, powerful climbing roses need timely and balanced feeding for lush flowering. Do not forget to tie the whips in time. It is undesirable to use rigid wire for this purpose, I use plastic clamps or twine from natural material... At the same time, you should not tie the lashes to the support too tightly.
It is often recommended to plant climbing roses with a slight bias in the direction where it is planned to lay the whips in the fall. It doesn't really matter; I did not notice the difference in bending between the roses that I planted according to science and those planted straight. If the variety has flexible shoots, it is easy to lay with any planting. And to bend roses with tough shoots to the ground, you always need to make an effort.
When planting a rose near a fence or wall of the house, make sure that there is good air circulation between the plant and the wall. Also, keep in mind that many materials get very hot on hot days, which will be detrimental to the colors. Therefore, roses must be attached to decorative lattice, which should be at least 10 cm away from the wall. And the last one. If you decide to decorate the wall of the house with a climbing rose, pay attention to where the water flows from the roof: it should not pour on the rose.
Climbing roses are mostly grown in southern areas as they love warmth. But the selection does not stand still, and many varieties have been bred, which it became possible to grow in more northern regions... What cultivars, you ask, are popular for garden decoration?
At this time, many species and varieties are known, but the most common.
Pierre de Ronsard
Repaired grade. Sprawling bush up to 2 m in diameter and 3 m in height. The lashes are quite tough, therefore, in some cases, it is possible to grow in a standard form.
Pierre de Ronsard They have small buds, with which the bush is abundantly strewn, from cream to pale pink shades, sometimes with internal color saturation.
Dense double flowers up to 14 cm in circumference. In the conditions of the central part of Russia, the buds do not have time to fully open their buds, but this makes it even more attractive.
Since Pierre has a weak aroma, it is planted mostly next to jasmine bushes. The result is a magnificent floral ensemble, which, in combination, gives an amazing smell.
Why else is Pierre de Ronsard so attractive to gardeners?
- frost-resistant, withstands up to -25 ° C;
- increased immunity to powdery mildew;
- long and abundant flowering;
- minimal maintenance required.
Hendel
Hendel Repaired grade. Used to decorate gazebos, arches, hedges. High decorativeness. Bush with a height of 1.5 m to 3.5 m.
After trimming, it becomes lush and spreads its lashes up to 2 m in volume. Frost resistant. Susceptible to disease.
Long bloom. Buds, goblet-shaped, reach a diameter of 8-10 cm, collected on a long peduncle 1-2.
Two-tone, original color that attracts attention. In the middle part, it is painted in a cream shade, passing to the edge in a bright crimson.
Flammentanz
Flammentanz An excellent variety of domestic selection. Cultivation in northern regions is possible, as it has high frost resistance.
It is not damaged by diseases and pests.
Requires minimal maintenance.
Large up to 12 cm in circumference, bright red flower buds, look amazing on the dark green foliage of the bush. Blooms in early summer. Has a bright, floral scent.
With good grooming, the lashes grow up to 5 m.
Polka
Even a beginner can handle the cultivation of this variety. Unpretentious care. Frost resistant. Not susceptible to disease. Decorative, which allows it to be used in landscaping landscape design.
A bush 1.5-2 m high is strewn with flowers of tender peach blossom... Abundant, long flowering allows you to admire until the fall. Many rose growers like its light, delicate aroma.
Polka Planting and leaving
The climbing rose has long been chosen by designers for vertical gardening. After all, it is convenient for decorating gazebos, arches, verandas and various fences. Therefore, before planting it, consider the design of your garden.
Tips for when and where to plant:
Landing in the ground
- For planting in the soil, seedlings need preparation... To do this, examine the root system. Remove any damaged, dried or broken roots. Immerse for 20 minutes in a weak solution of manganese for disinfection. Including it is required to shorten the above-ground part. Cut the shoots into a third part with a sharp sector. Make a clay chatterbox, add 1 tablet of heteroauxin per 10 liters to it. Put roots in it.
- We plant it in the ground... Dig a hole. It should be larger than the root system of the seedling. Pour a mound into the hole and put a bush on it. Spread the roots around the mound and cover with prepared soil. Thoroughly mix the garden soil with humus and sand.
The root collar should be deepened by at least 10 cm. This will protect against freezing and promote the formation of additional roots.
- Press the soil around the stem and pour water... After a few days, when the soil settles, it needs to be filled up.
The distance between plants required for free growth is at least 1 m and 1-2 m between rows. To decorate the garden with screens, we land in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of 0.5-1 m.
- When planting bushes in the spring, cover them with foil.... The film will create a greenhouse effect and they will take root better. Do not forget to open it slightly for ventilation. First, once a day for 15 minutes. In the following days, open for a longer time, thereby preparing the plants for outdoor conditions.
- In the first year, roses do not need fertilization.... They have enough nutrients from the soil.
Climbing rose care
Climbing bushes in most cases are undemanding to care for.
What needs to be done to keep the plants healthy and well-groomed?
- In the spring, prune, remove and burn plant residues;
- carefully dig up the ground around the plants, mulch with peat or humus;
- prevent the soil from drying out;
- fertilization;
- spray with a 3% solution to protect against diseases;
- to carry out treatment with drugs against pests;
- pruning branches that have faded;
- at the end of September, spud the plants, remove the supports, and carefully fold the branches on the ground;
- shorten all shoots by 30 cm;
- when the temperature reaches -5 ° C, remove all leaves, damaged branches and fasten with twine;
- cover for the winter with any material;
- pruning should be done in autumn and spring.
Pruning
After flowering
What is it for:
- develop and grow better;
- more young shoots appear on the branches;
- a powerful root system is formed;
- nutrients are equally distributed throughout the plant;
- for the prevention of diseases;
- for more light and air access.
To prune branches correctly and without consequences, you need a tool:
- a sharp knife or pruner;
- loppers of different sizes;
- gloves for work.
All tools should be kept clean and dry. After any work, they should be washed and disinfected in a solution of manganese, hydrogen peroxide. Then dry it.
Autumn
Autumn haircut takes place from October to November. Most of the shoots are removed:
- removal of old shoots;
- broken;
- shortening shoots in winter by 1/3;
It is easier for bushes to endure winter frosts without an extra mass of branches.
Spring
In spring, you should prune:
- broken branches;
- dry branches;
- caught in the frost.
Cold protection
Despite the fact that they write about the frost resistance of a particular variety, roses should be covered for the winter. If there is little snowfall in winter, they can freeze.
How to properly cover:
If a climbing rose wraps around an arch, then we cover it on it. For this:
In the spring, when warmth comes, the shelter should be removed gradually, layer by layer. This is done in order to train the plant to light. Avoid sunburn on the plant.
Reproduction
Seeds
For seed propagation, it is better to buy material from a garden store.
The collected seeds from your bushes do not have varietal characteristics. But in this way you can deduce new variety... Experiment with pleasure.
If all the conditions are met, the first buds will appear 2 months after planting. They need to be removed in order to give young plants to gain strength before they are subsequently transplanted into the ground.
With the onset of warmth, plant the seedlings in the beds under the film.
Cuttings
The most popular way to propagate roses is. In the middle of summer, cut the shoots from the bushes. The segments must have more than 2 internodes.
How to cut the cuttings correctly?
- We make cuts with a pruner or a sharp knife in such a way that the lower one falls under the kidney at an angle of 45 °, and the upper one is straight and above the kidney.
- Remove the bottom row of leaves from the segment. Shorten the upper ones.
- Fill the pots with soil (a mixture of earth and sand) and stick the cuttings into them. Cover with a transparent glass and place in a bright place.
- When the first leaves appear, remove the glasses. In the future, care before planting in open ground consists in watering and applying complex fertilizer.
Layers
Vaccination
Not the most popular and time-consuming method of reproduction is grafting on the stock or, in other words, budding:
Advice! Before grafting, the rose hips should be watered abundantly. Cut off the aerial part with the sector, while leaving 10-15 cm.
Looking at the splendor of climbing roses, it is impossible to resist planting it in your garden. Moreover, the selection offers us a variety of species and varieties, nowadays grown in any region of Russia.