DIY loft tables on a metal frame. How to make a wooden table yourself - step-by-step instructions, drawings and photos. How to make a wooden dining table

A great way to complement the interior of your home or cottage is to make an original and stylish piece of furniture. We talk about how to make a table with your own hands in this article. This piece of furniture will become a real decoration for your living room, kitchen or office. It can be assembled at home from specially ordered boards and beams or from leftover materials. To do this, the master will need drawings, tools and a little imagination. But there may be no experience in making homemade furniture. We offer you a very simple project to build a strong and stable table. Even a beginner can make furniture using this pattern.

It all starts with an idea

How to make a table? You need to start work by selecting a ready-made furniture project for the living room or by drawing up your own diagram of the future product. You don’t have to limit your imagination, but you should remember that the degree of complexity of the drawings should correspond to your level of skill. If you do not have sufficient experience, it is better not to try to assemble a very complex structure yourself.

The design of a table for your home can be drawn with a pencil on paper. First you need to draw a structure of the desired shape, and only then indicate its dimensions. Most often, a do-it-yourself table for the living room is made square or round, but for a kitchen or office (and any small room) a compact corner or adjustable-size table is suitable.

The dimensions of the table with your own hands can be absolutely any; when choosing the dimensions of the product, it is recommended to take into account, first of all, the dimensions of the room in which it will stand. Then, using the drawings, you can calculate the amount of material that will need to be purchased. It is recommended to purchase materials with a small reserve (just in case).

If you are a beginner who is assembling furniture at home for the first time, then it is better for you to give preference to soft wood (for example, pine).

Such materials are very pliable and do not split during assembly. If you are making furniture for the living room and aesthetics are important to you, then choose poplar. If the homemade table will be used outside the home, it is recommended to choose treated wood or mahogany.

A forged table with wooden table top. A wooden product decorated with forged elements will add charm to your yard.

To assemble a simple table at home, you will need:

• edged or tongue-and-groove boards, beams with a square cross-section (for legs) and with a rectangular cross-section (for the frame);

• white or yellow wood glue;
• screws (it is advisable to take self-tapping screws measuring 4x60);
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• set of clamps;
• sandpaper or sanding machine.

Making a countertop right

We begin the work with a description of the countertop manufacturing process. There are several ways in which you can solve this problem. What determines the choice of one method or another? First of all, it depends on the skill of the furniture maker and the intended appearance of the table for the living room or country house. So, here are the main ways to make a homemade countertop:

1. Production from boards. This material is characterized by its relatively low cost, excellent appearance and environmental friendliness. If you are a novice craftsman, then you can make a table with your own hands from tongue-and-groove boards (that is, blanks with ridges and grooves.

An experienced craftsman can assemble furniture for their living room edged boards. To do this, he will need dowels or a short soil carrier. These will be used to connect the boards to each other.

1. Made from a single piece of wood. In this case, you don’t even have to worry about how to make a table with your own hands with a fairly durable and beautiful tabletop. The best option is to purchase plywood made from hard wood. However, such a product will be quite expensive.
2. Assembling a product from leftover materials. This is very cheap way making furniture for the home, but quite complex in execution. It will be necessary to select pieces of wood that will harmoniously combine with each other and will not create problems during the installation process and further use products. Putting the leftovers together is also not easy. In this case, you will have to use screws and a large amount of glue or create an underframe (stiffening ribs).

In the first case, the boards are layered on top of each other, connected with screws and glue. Since all boards are different sizes, the finished product will need to trim off any protruding elements and do a thorough sanding. The result is an original and comfortable table.

The second method involves fastening the remaining materials in any convenient way (using glue, screws), followed by strengthening the structure by installing a subframe or stiffening ribs. This DIY table will be stable and durable.

If the table will be located in the courtyard near the house or in a stylized living room, then you can order a forged frame with legs for it. This will add a special flavor and originality to the product.

When the countertop is ready, you can leave it overnight to dry thoroughly. The manufacturing technology for this part of the table is approximately the same, regardless of the chosen shape of the product. The main differences between the projects in this case lie in the shape that needs to be given to the edges of the boards or a single sheet of wood.

If you are making an original corner table, then the edges of the boards will have to be made at an angle. It is very important to correctly calculate the degree of each cut so that the edges of the product are even.

However, if unevenness does result, the edges of the table will need to be sanded properly. You can also first fasten the boards together, and then draw a triangle on the workpiece and cut out the finished product.

If you are making a round table for the living room or a product with rounded edges, it is recommended to fasten the boards of the future product together, and then draw the lines of future cuts on the workpiece with a pencil or chalk.

The finished countertop for such a project will look like this:

Frame as the basis for a reliable table

The next step is to make a frame for the living room table. The frame is a wooden square (for a square or rectangular table) or a polygon (for a round product), which is attached to the tabletop and ensures the fixation of the legs.

Making a frame for a regular table is not difficult even for a beginner. To do this, you need to turn the tabletop upside down, measure the canvas, count a few centimeters in depth and make marks. Then you can draw a rectangle or square using the marks.

After this, you need to cut four pieces of wood of such sizes that correspond to the drawings on the tabletop. To make the frame, it is recommended to take timber rectangular section. A frame made of boards may not be strong enough. Then the frame needs to be attached to the tabletop using glue or self-tapping screws. The second option provides higher reliability of the design, however, in this case, the screw heads will be visible on the surface of the tabletop.

We make strong and reliable legs

At the next stage of the unusual project, you need to make the table legs. First, you can cut one leg of the desired height (it is recommended to use a square-section timber to produce legs), and then, using it as a sample, cut off the remaining 3. If you are making a corner table, then there will be not 4, but 3 legs. After completing the cutting process, you should Clamp all the legs together and cut them so that they are the same length.

At the next stage of work, the legs need to be sanded using a grinding machine or sandpaper. But the top and bottom of the products should not be sanded, as this can ruin the correct cut angle. Then you need to attach the legs. To do this, the table can be turned upside down.

The first leg should be placed in one of the corners of the frame so that the top cut touches the table top, and the two sides of the leg are adjacent to the frame. Then the contact lines of the parts must be generously lubricated with glue and connected using fastening screws, which are screwed through the table frame. It is advisable to make holes for the screws in advance so that during the screwing process the screws do not split the wood.

It is better to avoid using nails and a hammer when making a standard or corner table, since nails can split the wood, and using a hammer requires special skill from the manufacturer. In addition, screws hold wood better than nails and can be removed from the product if necessary.

Be sure to make sure that the legs are attached to the table under right angle. One of the advantages of screws is that they are easily adjustable. If necessary, their position can be easily changed. Then the same operations should be performed with the remaining legs. You can also screw the legs through the tabletop, but in this case there is a risk of splitting the top of the legs. And the aesthetics of the living room table will suffer from this.

When the glue is completely dry, you need to check the product for stability by shaking it vigorously. However, if you have made a corner table, then you can skip this step. It will touch two walls of the living room or office, and this will give it additional strength. Then all that remains is to sand the surface of the finished product and coat it with wood varnish or special paint. This completes the work. Now you can complement the interior of your apartment or garden with a wonderful product.

What is a loft style table

A table is a necessary piece of furniture at home and at work. The horizontal surface, raised above the floor level, ensures a comfortable stay for a person in a sitting position. Throughout the history of mankind, this accessory of existence has undergone various design changes: at first it was quite primitive, and later it even became a luxury item.

In the 60s of the last century, in the wake of alternating economic crises, empty production areas appeared. The premises began to be occupied by various creative associations, which filled the interior with homemade household items. This is how the loft design style was born (this word translates as attic).

Today it has become fashionable again to make tables in the loft style. Of course, this style does not at all mean creating designer models from attic trash. The basic idea is that the supporting structure (legs, box frame) is made of metal, and the table top is made of decorative boards irregular shape.

Coffee table in loft style

The comfortable height of this furniture does not exceed 300–350 mm. In the apartment, the coffee table is not surrounded by chairs; it is moved closer to the sofa. If the kitchen interior design is made in the loft style, then such a table against the general background will look quite harmonious.

I'll tell you how to make a loft-style table with your own hands. To do this, you need to prepare the appropriate tools and materials.

Tools

In my workshop I found all the necessary tools for making a table in the loft style with my own hands:

• drill for drilling holes in metal;
• screwdriver for fastening wooden parts;
• an air compressor with a gun for cleaning the working surface from small debris and drying the painted parts of the supporting frame;
• welding machine for welding a metal pedestal;
• jigsaw for processing the ends of the tabletop;
• brushes for primer, paint and varnish;
• tray for paint and primer;
• angle machine for cutting corners and strips;
• hammer;
• tape measure and metal ruler;
• level;
• chisel for cleaning wood;
• screwdriver;
• a set of clamps for fixing parts during welding work.

Materials

• two oak boards 30 mm thick and 1200 mm long;
• equal-flange steel corner 32 × 32 × 1210 m;
• steel strip 50 mm wide and 800 mm long;
• screws;
• primer for metal;
• dye;
• abrasive wheel;
• furniture varnish.

In order to make it clear how to make a loft table yourself, I decided to present my actions in the form of instructions.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a wooden coffee table in the loft style

I assembled the loft-style table with my own hands in two stages:

• making a metal pedestal,
• installation of countertops.

Making a pedestal

1. On a piece of paper I drew a sketch of a pedestal from a metal corner.
2. Using an angle machine with an abrasive wheel, I cut the metal into pieces according to the drawing.
3. The ends of the corners were cut at an angle of 45º.
4. Using a welding machine, I welded two horizontal frames.
5. I used a workbench to weld the metal frame. I fixed the structural parts with clamps.
6. The corners of the lower frame were placed with a vertical shelf up, and the elements of the upper belt of the pedestal were assembled with vertical shelves down.
7. I placed vertical posts between the frames and connected them to the frames by welding.
8. I welded two transverse metal strips into the upper frame at a distance of 300 mm from the edges of the frame.
9. I sanded the weld seams with an angle grinder.
10. Having placed the metal case on the floor, I checked the horizontalness of the upper frame of the pedestal with a level.
11. I applied primer to the frame of the pedestal with a brush.
12. After 12 hours, all the metal was covered with gray paint.
13. Using a drill, I drilled 4 holes with a diameter of 4 mm in the strips.

If there is no opportunity and experience in handling welding, then it is better to order the manufacture of a metal frame in a metalworking workshop.

Fastening the table top

I secured the tabletop boards as follows:

Labor costs and cost of manufacturing a loft coffee table

• two oak boards 30 mm thick with an area of ​​1.8 m2 - 800 rubles;
• 2 steel corners 32 × 32 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm and a total length of 12.1 m (1 linear meter costs 55 rubles) - 665 rubles;
• steel strip 50 × 800 mm – 100 rubles;
• electricity – 200 rubles;
• can of soil GF-021 0.9 kg – 70 rubles;
• jar of enamel for metal 0.9 kg – 320 rubles;
• tube with furniture varnish (aerosol) – 100 rubles.

The total cost was 2255 rubles.

It took me no more than 16 hours to make the table, not counting the time for drying the paint and varnish.

If you order a pedestal from a workshop, the cost will increase by about 30%.

In this video you can see various models of loft-style tables:

Tables in this style usually have uneven surfaces with wide cracks. This can cause small breakable objects to fall to the floor or simply get stuck between the boards of the countertop. However, these inconveniences are more than compensated for by the unusual design of the furniture.

Making furniture with your own hands is not only a great way to save money, but also an opportunity to put your creative potential into practice!

We will talk about making coffee tables with your own hands. There is no such thing as too many side tables. They can be placed next to the sofa to place a vase of flowers or a mug of tea, or used as bedside table or as a stand for potted indoor plants. However, monotonous wooden tables are unlikely to liven up a dull interior. I want something stylish and unexpected...

Stylish table made of wooden slats with your own hands

This bench can serve as a coffee table, extra seating, or a place to place indoor plants. This piece of furniture will “fit” well into almost any interior!

DIY coffee table photo

Materials:

Tools:

Step one: Using a hacksaw, cut the ends of two 2.5 x 7.5 cm boards at a 45 degree angle. Cut out fragments from 2.5x5 cm bars, the length of which will correspond to the internal length of 2.5x7.5 cm blanks.

how to make a coffee table with your own hands. Photo

Step two: Place 2.5x5 cm of the workpiece in the middle, and 2.5x7.5 cm on the edges. Make sure the ends of the inner slats are aligned.

Step three: Measure the distance between the outermost 2.5x7.5 cm bars and cut two pieces of this length from 2.5x10 cm boards. They will serve as lower supports for the bench. Secure them by screwing self-tapping screws into each longitudinal rail.

Step four: Using a Kreg Jig, drill two pocket holes at each end of the support crossbars. These holes will be used to connect to the 2.5 x 7.5 cm edge bars.

Tip: It is difficult to give specific recommendations regarding how far from the edge to attach a Kreg Jig. This depends on the length of the screws used, the exact thickness of the board, etc. We advise you to first practice on unnecessary scraps of boards.

unusual coffee table with your own hands. Photo

Step five: Place 2.5x7.5 cm blanks along the edges of the structure. After making sure that their ends are at the same level, secure them with clamps.

Tip: If you use soft wood (for example, pine) to make the table, place unnecessary scraps of boards under the clamp supports. Otherwise, marks from the clamps will remain on the wood.

Step six: Securely attach the outer 2.5x7.5 cm bars to the base of the bench by screwing 3.5 cm screws into the countersunk holes that you made a little earlier at the ends of the support crossbars.

coffee table made of wood. Master Class

Step seven: Measure the width of the fabricated base to determine how long you need to cut the 2.5 x 7.5 cm blank for the ends of the bench. We recommend that you make a cut with a small margin in length, and then slowly grind off the excess until you achieve the perfect fit.

Step eight: Wet the ends of all slats with water and apply a small amount of Gorilla Glue.

Step nine: Place the end boards in their intended place and secure the entire structure with a belt so that it does not fall apart while the glue is wet. For reliability, you can additionally secure the ends with several finishing nails.

Step ten: Sand the surface of the bench with 120 grit sandpaper to remove any rough edges at the joints. Fill all gaps in the seams and recesses from nail heads (the latter must be recessed into the wood) with putty. Once the putty is dry, sand the surface again, this time with 220 grit sandpaper.

Step eleven: Paint the bench. We recommend that you sand the surface again using 400 grit sandpaper and water before painting.

Step twelve: Install special mounting plates on the lower support crossbars to secure the legs. When attaching them, make sure that you drill holes in places where there are no screws already screwed in. The distance from the fastening to the edge of the base of the bench should be about 2.5 cm. Screw the legs themselves into the fastenings.

Coffee table made of copper pipes. Master Class

The material for making the next table can perhaps be called the most unexpected. This time we decided to tell you how to make a table with your own hands from... copper pipes OK.

Materials and tools:

The figure below shows all the parts (pipes (A-E) and various connecting elements (F-H)) with their sizes and quantities. All that remains for you is to take it in your hands pipe cutter and sit in front of the TV, which will brighten up the tedious cutting process a little. It's not difficult, just a little boring. 😉

When all the pieces are ready, you can begin assembling the lower part of the table. How to do this is shown in the figure.

Having assembled the lower tier, you can proceed to the upper one. The only parts not listed in the parts list are the four 2.5cm pieces of pipe that fit into the tees at the top of the corner posts. Without these inserts you will not be able to put on decorative caps, because... the latter have the same diameter as the tees.

Reliable connection of the tubes with each other will ensure glue, but we recommend applying it only after preliminary assembly of the structure, i.e. after you make sure that all the cut tubes are the correct length and fit together well.

Wooden shelves, which you can pre-paint if you wish, are secured using special clamps that are placed on the underside of each board. Now you're ready to decorate your home with a new, handmade table!

DIY lightweight cement table

Countertops and other interior elements made from concrete have become increasingly popular recently. However, for all their attractiveness, they are not without a number of disadvantages. Firstly, pouring large quantities of concrete can sometimes be quite an expensive undertaking. Secondly, when it comes to small side tables, another serious problem emerges - such furniture turns out to be too heavy. On the one hand, there is a desire to get a good, solid thing, on the other hand, you want to be able to move a table you made with your own hands without the help of professional movers. The solution found can be considered an insight.

Materials and tools:

Step one: Mark and cut out the foam sheet. From a 120x240 cm piece you can cut 18 squares of 40x40 cm. By stacking them on top of each other, you will get a parallelepiped 40x40x45 cm.

DIY foam table. Photo

Step two: Glue the cut pieces together. 3M Super 77 aerosol adhesive is ideal for this. It is better to perform this stage of work outdoors. Don't forget to wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt. Apply an even layer of glue to one side of the first square, then do the same with the second. Wait ~15 seconds, then connect the squares, making sure their edges meet. Repeat this until all the square pieces are joined into one piece. Wait about 30 minutes before moving on to step 3.

Step three: Now the most interesting thing... giving the resulting parallelepiped the outline of the future table. We decided to make a table in the shape of a cylinder. You can come up with something more original or, on the contrary, keep the original block with right angles. Cutting foam is easy and fun. Your design will have a rough, angular appearance at first, but don't worry! Once the table has been given the desired shape, it is time for sanding. Using 36 grit sandpaper will quickly smooth out any rough edges. As you get closer to the ideal, gradually move on to sandpaper with a finer grain size. Do not strive to achieve a super smooth surface; at this stage it is important for you to achieve only the required shape.

Step four: The surface of the future table has been sanded, it’s time to cement it. The first layer, applied over the entire foam mold, will fill in the voids and texture of the foam. You only have ~20 minutes, so work quickly so you have time to smooth out any rough edges. Once the applied cement mortar has dried, you can apply the next layer. The number of coats depends on how smooth and even the final surface you want (usually four to five coats are required). It should be remembered that the smoother the surface of the final layer before it dries, the less sanding it will have to do!

Tip: When preparing cement mortar, follow the manufacturer's instructions. You should not prepare more mortar than you need to apply one layer (for example, we used 220 ml of water and 450 g of cement). Make sure you don't forget to cover the surface of your workbench or workshop floor, because this job is quite dirty.

Step five: After the last cement layer has dried, you can sand the surface if desired. We wanted to achieve a glossy finish on at least the top of the table, so we sanded it using varying grit sandpaper ranging from 100 to 2000 grit.

Advice: If you are planning this operation, purchase a protective mask that will help you protect your lungs from cement dust

(The table made in this project turned out to be very durable and strong, but at the same time it weighed no more than a kilogram.)

DIY stump table

The material for the next table is sometimes literally lying under your feet. Even residents of megacities will be able to find a suitable stump if they wish.

log table. Photo

Materials and tools:

• wooden block;
• white acrylic paint;
• hand grinder;
• chisel;
• hammer;
• decorative upholstery nails;
• molar tape.

Step one: Find a table base! This should not be an old rotten stump, but a freshly cut log. Allow it to dry for at least 6 months (nothing is worse than waiting, but it must be done) until the bark begins to separate from the trunk.

Step two: Using a chisel, use a downward motion to carefully scrape away the bark from the log. If the stump is dry enough, you won't have to use too much force to do this.

Step three: By using grinder With medium-grit sandpaper, sand the surface, removing any remaining bark and smoothing out any sharp corners. Don't forget to sand the surfaces of the lower and upper cuts. Wipe the wood with a damp cloth.

Step four: It's time for painting. We used white semi-gloss paint that included a primer (we needed three coats for full coverage). You can choose a different type and color of paint, focusing solely on your taste. Don't forget to prime the surface of the wood first. Make sure you don't forget to trim the bottom cut.

Step five: Prepare decorative nails. Place a strip of masking tape along the top edge of the side surface of the block, thereby marking the place where the first row of nails will be located.

Step six: Use a hammer to hammer in the first row of decorative nails. To ensure that the distance from them to the top edge is the same throughout the entire “line” of nails, use the strip of masking tape you previously glued as a guide. Once the first row is completed, repeat with the second and third row of nails (we needed almost 150 nails for three rows).

Tip: Cover the bottom surface of the stump with furniture felt so that you can move the table around the room without damaging the flooring.

The work is done. You can enjoy your new piece of furniture and be proud that you made this charming coffee table yourself.

Coffee tables: do it yourself

Wooden table: how to make?

Many people are interested in how to make a wooden table with their own hands to get a model with an original appearance. Let's consider one of the options.

To make an original coffee table with your own hands, you should take timber with a section of 5x10cm. It is cut into pieces of the following lengths: 130cm - 9 pieces, 21cm - 12 pieces, 34cm - 2 pieces.

The prepared timber is placed in three rows, leaving space for attaching the legs.

The top two rows are removed. The timber in the third row is moved slightly to create an interesting appearance. Next, mark the places for attaching the transverse parts.

Lay the outer bars of the second row and mark the places of cuts. Then the cuts are made circular saw or a hacksaw with a chisel.

The bars of the second row are secured with screws.

Lay the third row, move the parts and secure them.

An empty space is formed under the tabletop, in which they fix legs.

The wood is processed protective composition , preserving the wood texture.

Original model of a wooden coffee table with your own hands

First, to make a table with your own hands, prepare planks: 6pcs - 22.5x45cm, 2pcs - 22.5x41cm, 8pcs - 20x4cm, 8pcs - 40x4cm.

Planks 20x4 and 40x4 are glued in pairs. To ensure they stick together securely, they are clampedclamps.

While the leg blanks are drying, assemble box from the remaining parts. They are connected with wood glue and nailer.

Legs They are attached to the box with countersunk screws. Crossbars are placed between the legs at the bottom.

cover for a wooden table they are also made using 22.5x45cm planks. They are glued together, and then the resulting square is sawn into two triangles.

One triangle is secured with screws, and the second triangle is secured with slats so that it is removable.

All parts are sanded and painted.

Stylish coffee table. Master Class

Start making a stylish table with your own hands by marking the sheet Chipboard 16mm thick. The center is found on the sheet at the intersection of two diagonals.

A nail is driven into the center, to which a thin rope or harsh thread is tied.

A pencil is tied to the free end. This allows you to draw a circle.

If you want to make a table with your own hands that is not round, but of a more interesting shape, then the shape of the circle is changed by drawing curves.

The table top is cut out jigsaw or a reciprocating saw.

Edges are processed sandpaper.

Legs secured with screws. If they are located obliquely, then the slope should be outward.

Table surface paint in the desired color.

Simple coffee table

To make a coffee table with your own hands, take boards 40x15cm - 2 pieces and 50x19cm - 2 pieces. In addition, you will need legs and mounting plates.

A larger one is fixed on one of the boards plates for attaching legs. You should step back a little from the edges.

The sides and top of the table are secured with wood glue.

It dries in about half an hour.

DIY log table

A self-made coffee table with this appearance will decorate your cottage or country house. Work begins by assembling the frame. To do this, take sheets plywood two centimeters thick. A base with dimensions of 60x80cm is cut out of them. A box 68cm long, 45cm wide and 40cm high is attached to the base.

DIY log table. Photo

After this, thirty round pieces are cut logs 45 cm long and twenty-four round cuts, the thickness of which is 3 cm.

The prepared logs are secured around the perimeter of the box. Fixed from below to the base rollers. They are installed at a distance of three centimeters from the edge.

In addition to glue, it would be useful to secure the logs with screws from below.

Installed on the box plywood cover. Round circles are glued onto it. The space between them is filled with wood putty, which does not shrink when dried. Apply it in stages so that the previous layer has time to dry.

After the putty has dried, the surface polished. For this, a surface grinder is used. After this, the log table can be used.

Country style table

If you are interested in how to make a table from wood cuts with your own hands, then you should read the instructions.

They begin making such a coffee table with their own hands by choosing the appropriate material.

Selected slept We inspect for any interesting parts or parts that need to be removed.

Excessively rough, protruding parts are cut off. On the side where the tabletop will be, the surface level.

Used for work cleaver, which moves at an angle of forty-five degrees.

The sides also need to be leveled.

All surfaces polished, using ever-decreasing grain sizes.

Glossy varnish mixed with resin in equal parts.

The resulting composition is applied to the wood in a thick layer. It will take a long time to dry. If cracks appear during the drying process, they must be filled.

Bottom side clearing out. If there are voids in the tree, they are filled with resin gradually until the hole is filled.

If there are air bubbles in the dried resin, the surface is heated with a heat gun or burner.

A second layer of resin is applied and again left to dry for two days. The entire surface of the tabletop should be glossy.

The part of the ax handles is cut off at an angle of 22 degrees. The surface is sanded and painted in the desired color.

Mark places for legs and make holes.

Glue is poured into the holes and the legs are installed. Special pads are attached to each.

White coffee table

Make such a coffee table with your own hands from plywood And glass First, prepare a drawing and determine the dimensions. Then they proceed directly to production.

DIY coffee table. Blueprints

Plywood acts as a tabletop box with partitions, covered with glass on top. Triangular legs are attached to it.

You can make a door at the box to access what's inside, or you can lift the glass.

LegsFor a table with your own hands, it is better to cut it out of fairly thick plywood. It should be remembered that double legs are easier to make than more single ones.

When all the parts are ready, they are assembled together and fastened. The table is painted or varnished.

DIY table made from pallets

If you know how to make a table from pallets with your own hands, you can get an interesting version of furniture for your home. Pallets must first be sanded, sawn into pieces and primed.

table made from pallets. Instructions

A table is assembled from the prepared material. To do this, attach legs or wheels. A pallet directly or a surface assembled from individual planks can be used as a table cover.

After all the parts are connected, the structure needs to be painted or varnished. After this, the table made from pallets is ready.

Second version of a table made from pallets

To make such a table with your own hands, you will need one or two pallets. You should first draw a sketch of the future product, taking into account all dimensions.

The table will have a shelf for small things under the tabletop. The structure is assembled from prepared parts.

The surface is painted black, but this is not the only possible option. There are many other decorating possibilities.

Coffee table stand

Option on how to make a table from copper pipes with your own hands, may be of interest to many craftsmen.

The pipes are first marked and cut. Then they are coated epoxy glue and assemble the base for the table.

This base is applied to the board and the fastening points are outlined. In these places you will need to drill holes by pipe diameter.

Four holes are drilled, but not all the way through.

The board is impregnated polyurethane and cover stain.

The remaining one is collected from the pipes frame.

Legs and base cover paint in the color of the tabletop.

Made from a piece of cloth pocket, which is hung on the transverse parts of the legs.

All parts are assembled together, adding epoxy glue for reliability.

DIY marine style table

This table is from an old one window frame looks very romantic. The frame is cleaned of dust. If necessary, replace the glass.

Wooden surface paint white acrylic paint. After drying, the paint layer is sanded so that the wood appears. An option is also available in blue and white.

To make the legs, take stalk and sawed into pieces of 34 cm. After this, it is treated with sandpaper to remove roughness.

The blanks are drilled in four places. Next, each leg is attached to the base, and the base with legs is attached to the frame. All this is done with self-tapping screws.

The legs are covered with coarse rope.

For peeled and low-fat glass glue sea souvenirs and seafood. They must be covered with glass on top, which is cut in the workshop to the size of the frame.

A loop is made at one end of the rope. The rope is glued around the perimeter of the frame, leaving the loop free. When the other end reaches it, an interesting sea knot is tied.

A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen that is extremely small in size. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to express one’s Creative skills in dacha conditions, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo suburban area. If you have it on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Before starting work, you need to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use regular, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always used. This list usually includes:

• A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
• Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
• Saws different sizes and modifications that are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
• Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
• Screwdriver Set.
• Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
• Sandpaper for sanding.

Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.

• A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious procedure of manual sandpaper.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, then you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

To prevent the finished furniture from being “crooked”, the assembly is controlled by level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

Anyone can make a table like this

Necessary materials

For such a country house, which has a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too many wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:

• Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
• Board size:

— 1680×100×25 mm — 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);

— 850×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);

— 1580×100×25 mm — 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);

— 950×100×25 mm — 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).

• Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
• Wood glue.

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then cover it with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, carefully go over the top grinder. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.

Frame or “box” of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.

The elements can be connected in different ways:

Connection with a choice of “quarters” and using metal corners

- using a steel angle - this is the simplest and most reliable way;

- the insertion method is a more complex method, since it requires precise dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle

- “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;

- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.

• All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
• If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation work, through holes must be drilled.

• After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.

The next step is installing the legs

• The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After this, the table can be covered with varnish or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a country gazebo, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

• Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
• The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
• The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
• In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
• If necessary, this small table It can easily replace an ironing board if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Diagram of the table with the numbers of assembly parts marked (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

Part number on the drawing	the name of detail	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Material of manufacture, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top of the cabinet.	1	600×475	Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding table top.	2	530×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
7	A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet.	2	120×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table cabinet.	2	720×520	MDF 19 mm
10	Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the inner partition of the cabinet.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the cabinet.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	Cabinet drawer front panel.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Drawer bottom panel.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Handles for drawers and cabinet doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80×80×18	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture door hinges.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

Main dimensions of the table (illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

Separate components of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to cut out blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm, from plywood 25 mm thick, using a jigsaw or circular saw.
	Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make one yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are being made for installation furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges may have different shapes, so they should be placed in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of ​​the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue.
	Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and find a convenient height position, mark the point through which to drill through hole to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from the negative influence of a specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue is in assembled structure dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue has dried in the center façade panel a hole is drilled through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm.
	Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or you simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then you should not put off making your own. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, we offer another interesting option for a round table, which can easily serve both at home and on the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:

Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design

Just like in a bedroom without a bed, and in almost any other room, be it a living room, kitchen or even a hallway, you cannot do without a table. Actually, it won’t be superfluous in the bedroom either. It’s better to have several of them at once - for different purposes. So that there is somewhere to put a night lamp, where to lay out notes and books, install a laptop, or even just have a snack or even do something more piquant.

It’s not difficult to buy a “desk”, there is a wide choice now, but making it yourself is a matter of special sophistication. Such a homemade item of apartment “wardrobe” will be valued much more highly by both the owner and guests, and it will be more pleasant to use.

This is not an easy task, but it is also not difficult, requiring, however, a certain aesthetic taste and carpentry skills. But don’t be scared and retreat right away. It is quite possible to cope with this task, the main thing is to imagine what you want.

Advantages and disadvantages

A homemade product has both its advantages and disadvantages. Among the advantages:

• Variability. You can do what you really need with your own hands. In all aspects. This includes complete freedom in choosing shape, material, texture, size, and design.
• Saving. Buying furniture in stores will cost significantly more. In fact, for the same or even worst quality Sometimes you have to pay many times more money.
• Uniqueness. What you do with your own hands, no one else can do. This will allow you to create a stylish and original, and most importantly, unique interior almost anywhere - in the country, in an apartment, in your own home.
• Improving skills. Working on a table is an opportunity to practice your metalworking and carpentry skills and learn a whole range of new things. These skills will also be useful when repairing ready-made store-bought products in the future.

Having better understood the design of tables, it will be possible to take a more professional approach to the selection of such products in retail outlets, or even even discover a source of additional income. And in general, you can always help your loved ones and friends fix something, bring a fresh idea to the design.

However, making tables yourself is fraught with certain difficulties. Among them:

• Time-consuming. Be prepared to spend one or more days, or even a week for a large item. The maximum, as experts admit, is 10 days spent on big table. In fact, you can spend your entire vacation toiling with the material and achieving very meager results. Therefore, it is better to be psychologically prepared for difficulties during the first experience.

• Injury hazard. Working, especially with wood, is fraught with splinters. When working with old material (beams, fence boards), you need to remain extremely careful. But in some cases, even work gloves may not save you from small cuts. Too delicate hands should not do such things.

• Manufacturing defects. A house is still not a workshop, and some calculations can be difficult to make - hence the roughness and unevenness in a seemingly finished product, verified to the smallest detail. It’s fine if the table is made for a summer house, but in a standardized room the result can become the subject of offensive jokes and just look out of place. To make an improvised “bureau” or other structures that are more complex than a regular table, you still need skills and certain experience. There would be time to work it out.

• Need a tool. If you don’t have it, everything is simple – you’ll have to buy it and master it. Time is already money, but there are also additional costs at the first stage. However, in the long term, such an approach will lead to savings - the next table will be made for next to nothing, especially if there are supplies of material at the dacha.

• Not suitable for all styles. You need to be careful when experimenting with homemade products in modern interiors, for example, high-tech, where metal and high-tech materials rule the roost. They are difficult to work with, and wooden products can disrupt the harmony of the room.

A little advice. If you decide to make a table, and this is your first experience, try to find a good adviser who will psychologically and with the help of his skills support the endeavor. You can take the first steps together, and then set off on a free “flight”.

Assembly Features

There are many types of tables. The most common are desk, computer, toilet (with or without a mirror). Desktops vary depending on whether they are designed for a laptop or made for a desktop computer. In the latter case, you will need a special space for the system unit - it can be installed both under your feet and at eye level.

Each option has its own advantages that affect the design of the table. In the first case, the system unit will not get in the way, but it will not be very convenient to connect USB ports to it from behind. When designing, you should leave a significant open space behind the table, and do not place it near the wall. If the system unit is located on top, the bureau should be as stable as possible, and the table top should be made of durable, reliable material.

If there is a goal to design a desktop for a schoolchild, including a collapsible structure, it is reasonable to build into it drawers for notebooks, textbooks and CDs. An alternative is a separate shelf above the structure. The drawers can be either retractable or an open shelf. Backlighting is also relevant.

Tables can also be corner or transformable; height-adjustable, collapsible, on wheels.

All these are not frills, but practical design elements. Among the more complex options, popular ones include, for example, river tables with a beautiful, often transparent material built into the middle part. Their production will take more time and require higher metalworking skills, but will allow you not only to improve your working “skills”, but also to make a real interior artifact. Each type of table has its own assembly features and specifics. Let's consider several of the most popular, simple and affordable options for creating a table that do not require the heights of technical training, but allow you to create high-quality and interesting products that do not look awkward or poor even in a modest interior.

Tools

But before you start carpentry, you need to decide what and with what you plan to work. You need to get down to business in full “instrumental” readiness. Don’t be afraid, you won’t need anything rare or particularly complicated - just the usual working arsenal, which a real man always has at hand. So, let's list the main things. You can’t do without the “classics of the genre” - nails, screws, a screwdriver, a plane, a hammer, glue (instant glue will come in handy), a knife. In some cases, you can use a saw (in nature). Don't forget about work gloves and disinfectants. Be sure to have iodine and cotton swabs with you, unless, of course, the goal is to make a table and not get sick with tetanus.

The fact is that wood, when sanded (with sandpaper or another device), can turn out to be very “unfriendly” and simply become a pile. When working with metal, you also need metalworking tools. And in any case, it is better to acquire eye protection - a special work mask. For subsequent processing of the material and its cleaning, a brush and disinfectants, including against insects, are also useful, especially when using old wood. You can also clean the table with sandpaper.

And, of course, you need varnish or paint for final processing. You may have to treat the tabletop with varnish several times (after the first one, the lint will simply stand up), which means it is better to buy it with a reserve.

Popular materials

One tool is obviously not enough. There is something, but nothing to work on yet. The main thing is, of course, the material. Theoretically, a table can be made from anything, but there are some subtleties. The most popular is wood, but it must be dry! If it is not dry, dry it; This will take time, but it is better not to rush anywhere for the sake of the quality of the product.

A table made of dry wood, logs, timber is a wonderful and reliable element of the interior. Beautiful, functional and inexpensive. With this option, you can save a lot if you have inexpensive bars or logs on hand - stored, for example, in the country. In stores, good wooden tables are definitely not among the cheapest.

Wood is in trend now. This is the main eco-material. You can’t do without it in interiors tailored to a natural style. In fact, it is wood in one form or another that is used in all classical interior styles, right up to colonial or modern.

You can also make a bureau from chipboard. The material is composite and quite affordable. But it has a lot of disadvantages. Chipboard is afraid of moisture - no longer an option for the kitchen. It doesn’t hold nails and screws well – adding extra complications to the job. And in general, it is not very environmentally safe - it is better not to keep too many chipboard products in the apartment. However, such a table can be placed, for example, in a house or on the veranda at the dacha - as an inexpensive, temporary option - for the season, for receiving guests. Inexpensive, simple and moderately aesthetically pleasing, and most importantly – functional.

Let us clarify that laminated chipboard is also available on sale - also wood and shavings, only laminated in a special way - with a polymer film at high temperatures, or even with a special varnish that provides increased water resistance. Laminated chipboard is more expensive, but such boards are practically devoid of all the disadvantages of chipboard.

However, using plywood will be no less practical. There are many types of it - there are also moisture resistant ones. This means the range of applications is wider. In Russia, this material is gaining popularity and is also being exported en masse, which indirectly speaks of its quality. Plywood is quite easy to process and not too expensive. The downsides are its facelessness, dull texture and the accompanying feeling of unnaturalness. In addition, when working with plywood, you must be very careful in the preparatory stage. You can’t do without a sketch or drawing. You can use either ready-made projects or make it yourself.

The easiest way is to make a table from furniture board, for example, ash. This is a little more expensive, but at the same time it will ensure the reliability of the main part of the table - the table top. Less hassle with polishing, but at the same time somewhat less naturalness and texture.

An extreme alternative is to use natural wood: stumps (they, by the way, can be used on their own, but this is designer chic) ​​or saw cuts. With them everything is exactly the opposite. You will have to sand it and varnish it yourself several times, but in the end you will get a completely unique unique product that all lovers of “natural” design will be able to appreciate, if, of course, after the get-togethers they leave without a few splinters in various places.

Often, glass or special optical glue, plexiglass adhesive, which replaces it, is used in table decoration. You can also buy just impact-resistant glass - although it will be more expensive. It's stylish, impressive and safe. This material is optimal for small oval coffee tables, but recently it has been increasingly used by designers in models with right angles.

We also add that the legs and base can be metal. You should not be afraid of the combination of wood and metal - with proper design it can be not only harmonious, but also very interesting. In modern interiors, lofts and high-tech, sometimes you can’t do without it. In addition, metal combines effectively with glass or its analogues.

Kitchen table

This is an absolutely necessary element of the interior. It should be convenient, comfortable and stable. The surface of the tabletop is often of no fundamental importance - it is usually covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth. When making it yourself, it is important to pay attention to the lower parts of the structure so that you can sit at the table without any problems and always have the opportunity to comfortably place your legs.

Good dinner table You can do it yourself in just a few days. According to home “masters”, even very beautiful large models took them no more than 7-10 days. You can use any material - the easiest ones to work with are chipboard, plywood and wood. The main thing is that the beams and boards are smooth and well polished.

Carefully study their dimensions and, if necessary, bring them up to standard - it is hardly advisable to make a kitchen table more than 80 cm in height. The shape and size of the countertop will depend on the interior and the availability of free space in the kitchen.

The table, although the main element of the interior in such a room, should not take up all the space. Therefore, especially in small kitchens, it is practical to make it square - you can approach from all sides, but more than four people are still unlikely to fit behind it. In large dining rooms, on the contrary, it is better to stick to the classic rectangular format.

An oval or round tabletop will also look interesting, especially if you choose beautiful curly legs for it - this, however, will require good carpentry skills.

When working on a standard wood model, secure beams or boards with strips at the bottom below the tabletop. A practical option with plywood. It is better not to use chipboard - there is always high humidity in the kitchen, and something is accidentally spilled on a regular basis, and this material, as we know, does not withstand the influence of the water elements well.

An interesting idea would be to create an extendable table. In this case, the fastenings must be flexible. But you can do it easier. Still, making an extendable table with your own hands in the format of one design is a non-trivial task.

Therefore, make two small rectangular products of the same dimensions. During the day, they can be moved to different parts of the kitchen or even apartment, and before eating together, they can be moved, thereby forming a large table. A very practical option for small kitchens. When making, pay attention to the lower parts - partitions and beams should not interfere with each other when connecting tables.

If the kitchen is very small, you can also make a folding table. Assemble the tabletop and attach a special bracket to the wall. Such a “bureau”, as a rule, has only two legs, which means they should be placed so that at least three people can fit behind it at the same time. Another option is to build a small cabinet for storing dishes and food instead of one of the legs. This is an ideal way to save space.

When designing a table with a sink, it is better to seek the help of a professional. It will not be difficult to make sketches and the main elements of the structure, but the main thing is that they do not interfere with the pipes being laid under it. So you can’t do without a locksmith and a plumber.

At the final stage, it is better to process any table. How to cover it and how to decorate it is a matter of taste. You can varnish and cover it with a tablecloth, or even decorate it with special tiles or even stone. The field for experiments is large.

Many color palettes, including bright ones, will fit into the kitchen interior. Don’t be afraid to make the table red, yellow or green - it’s fashionable, pleasant and aesthetically pleasing, and will create a good mood when preparing, eating and communicating with family members and guests.

And one more tip on kitchen tables. If you want to design a product with a drawer, make the design of the latter as reliable and airtight as possible so that moisture does not get in there. Assemble it from several boards or slats and securely fasten them with special glue or nails. When using plywood, it should ideally not be thicker than 20mm.

High-quality grinding and processing, including against insects, is important. Remember that the kitchen, as a place for storing food and preparing food, is a favorite environment not only for cockroaches, but also for various arboreal and moisture-loving species of insects, especially in hot climates.

For computer

A computer table should be compact and functional. It's always better to design it with reserve. There are two main concepts:

• Desk for a desktop computer. If the equipment is powerful, say, gaming, you will have to make the table long and wide enough. The monitor will take up a lot of space on it. A diagonal of 20 inches and a wide range of screen rotation options mean user mobility at the table, which means there should always be a place to put your hands. A separate measurement should be made taking into account the size of the keyboard.

The table should also accommodate other devices - a mouse, joysticks, gamepads, or even a gaming role. The system unit will also take up part of the space. It can be installed at the bottom of the table - for this you will have to make special ceilings so as not to place the equipment on the floor. The table should not be closed - high-quality cooling is very important for a powerful computer, and open space will provide the necessary air circulation.

At the same time, the design of the table is not of fundamental importance - in any case, it will be filled with equipment. The main thing is to use high-quality varnish and paint so that the surface is smooth, easy to wipe and does not accumulate a lot of dust, which is dangerous for equipment.

• For laptop. When measuring, keep in mind that it must fit both the computer itself and the hands of the person working or playing at it. Often a full-fledged keyboard is also connected separately to laptop computers, so it is better to use spare material. Leave room for the mouse too.

Let us add that the shape of a computer desk can be made to almost any shape. Previously, there was an opinion that it should be rectangular, but practical experience showed that oval tables, in particular for laptops, are a very interesting solution. If you attach wheels to them, turning them into an analogue of a coffee table, you can easily move with your computer throughout the room - show videos to friends from convenient angles or, conversely, if necessary, quickly and efficiently immerse yourself in work or correspondence away from prying eyes.

However, a table with right angles has some specific advantages. It is easier to equip it with drawers and shelves for storing books and discs. Do not forget about the reliability of fastening these structures, since the weight of a music or game collection can reach 7-10 kg.

Night table

It is better to make the night table extremely compact. Size is not his strong point, the main thing is convenience of shape. First of all, adjust the dimensions of the materials to the height of the bed. It’s better to make it level with the level of the mattress, but it’s okay if it’s lower. A high bedside table is not too impractical, although it is seen as an example in some design schools. If aesthetic qualities are more important to you, it is reasonable to experiment in this direction. In this case, you can choose any shape - from oval to rectangular and square.

The design concept should be included in the composition of the bedroom interior. For classic styles, it is better to choose wood from materials. Moreover, in the case of retro and historical styles The more authentic it is, the better. If you have skills in artistic carving, then in this case it’s time to use them. In modern interiors, a wooden product will also be relevant - the texture, if necessary, will be hidden under varnish, paint or tablecloth. The color scheme depends on the color of the room. The color should be in harmony with the bed, bed linen, and ideally with a floor and ceiling. Radical contrasts are inappropriate here.

When working on a night table, special attention should be paid to its stability. The leg can be made big. If there are several of them, they should turn out absolutely identical. Please note that they not only place an alarm clock or a coffee table book on the night table, but sometimes rest it with their hands - it should be able to withstand such loads without any problems. The table can also be equipped with several drawers, or, if the level of technical skill or specific material does not allow, with an open shelf.

Coffee table

In many houses and apartments, the habit of laying out newspapers and magazines on the coffee table has already become a thing of the past. They have been replaced by new means of communication - various gadgets - from iPhone to laptop. But they also need to be placed somewhere, even if you just put them on charge. Before making such an interior item, it is better to immediately determine its functionality.

The main thing is to understand one simple truth: no one works behind magazine “bureaus” - at best they work part-time, so they should be low, aesthetically pleasing and comfortable for a relaxed pastime. And it is aesthetics that comes first. Your guests will remember, first of all, the design and material of the table. Another point is functionality. It would be good if such a table had space under the tabletop where you could put something.

So, it is better to take chipboard or boards as materials. They should be assembled on dowels with extreme, maximum precision - so that the joints of the elements are not visible.

An additional cross member will make the table more stable and reliable. If the structure contains metal (legs), a welding machine will be required. A rectangular metal element can be placed in the base. Don't forget to reinforce the sides in the same way. A very common option is glass (or transparent glue). Such tables are often found in offices, waiting rooms and other “guest” facilities. However, as the experience of many designers shows, it fits well into home interiors.

When making it, it is important to pay attention to the wooden or metal base - it will be visible under the glass! Cross-shaped shapes work well. Don't forget that glass can also be used simply as an additional component. For example, cover part of a classic wooden table with it. It is advisable to equip the resulting already light interior object with wheels. Such a “mini-transport” will be especially relevant in a large living room, as well as in an apartment where there are always a lot of children (then, however, you should not experiment with glass again). This is a good and useful item for fun and relaxation.

But the mobile table should be light. Massive - it is better not to equip it with this “bonus”, but to make it from durable, heavy dimensional boards. It will ground the interior and make it more collected.

There is also an option with a transforming table. It is practical, but not always aesthetic. However, if you make a double (in height) base, then it can even be used as a conditional easel. Let us add that coffee tables, as a rule, are still small and are usually designed for one, maximum, four people. The selection of sizes is purely individual. The only thing that matters is the height - it can be varied from 40 to 60-80 cm. Do not forget also that in some situations the product can also be used as a bookcase - for this you will need to make shelves and compartments that meet your needs.

In terms of color, contrast between the tabletop and legs is acceptable. The combination of metal and wood looks good. You can apply a drawing or make an unusual ornament on the surface, but it’s easier to just cover it with something - you won’t have to repaint the products every time your mood and taste change. And one more thing about the form. Magazine furniture can be either round or rectangular-square - a matter of taste. Round products are used somewhat more often because they are safer and more affordable.

The knights of King Arthur, after all, also sat at the round table, so in the living room, a place for receiving and gathering guests, each of whom often wants to show their individuality and initiative, it is better to do without seats at the head of the table and other patriarchal delights, and even for Children are safer - they won’t get hit again.

Garden furniture

A holiday in nature is a wonderful pastime, however, in order to really have a good rest and sit in company, you need a high-quality and comfortable table. This type of furniture is very specific. On the one hand, it must withstand high humidity - if it is standing outdoors in the rain, on the other - it is very unpretentious in terms of aesthetic qualities and always gravitates towards naturalness. Wouldn't be appropriate in nature glass table or an expensive metal product.

So, before you start making such furniture, you need to decide on an important point: where it will stand and how mobile it should be. There are essentially two options:

• Fixed outdoor table. Typically, such structures are placed near the garden house or at a distance from it in comfortable places for relaxation - under an apple tree or other fruit tree. The main thing is that such an exterior item should be durable and reliable, standing on its “legs” as firmly as possible. In some cases, it is reasonable to even dig the legs into the ground. The surface can be any, but preferably wood.

The main thing is to remove lint and shavings from it, as they can lead to unpleasant and deep injuries or just splinters. Please note that the surface must be moisture resistant - the table will regularly get wet in the rain. In cases of heavy rainfall or simply a long absence from the dacha, it is better to cover it with something, say, oilcloth. This will not save you from high humidity, but will protect you from direct contact with water.

• Movable table in a country house. As a rule, this is a more compact option. It can be used indoors, taken out onto the veranda or open air. When making it yourself, it is better to focus on using lightweight materials so that it can be transported.

Wheels are unlikely to help much (the landscape at the dacha is not always level), although they can also be attached, but this will make the structure less stable. A good bonus will be the ability to extend or assemble the table. For the winter season, such a table can be completely folded and stored in the attic so that it does not deteriorate.

What is the best material to make a garden table from? Pallets, boards, old logs, say, from an already unnecessary or dilapidated fence, partitions from boxes, an old tire, or whatever may come in handy. It is better not to use glass and not to abuse metal. The latter tends to rust: this is not so terrible, but aesthetically it can ruin the entire natural harmony, unless, of course, there is a desire to create a post-apocalyptic ambience.

It is better to fasten boards for tabletops in the countryside from below using planks. There is another option with gluing - this is a more time-consuming technology; after processing, you will need to pull the boards together and keep them in this state for about a day. If the material is old, it is better to arrange it according to color, align it stylistically according to color.

Light - to light, dark - to dark, with interweaving color contrasts closer to the center. Don't strive for perfection with constant alignments - naturalness should not be symmetrical. The next step is to sand the surface. It is better to do this with sandpaper.

When working with legs, the main thing is to make them the same length - otherwise eating at such a table will not be pleasant. It is important that their surfaces are not beveled, but smooth. However, if you dig your legs into the ground and don’t have a saw at hand, you can always compensate for a couple of centimeters, but only as a last resort.

Then, after designing the structure, the tabletop needs to be varnished. After the first time, lint will probably stand up, so we process it twice. For reliability, an additional support-mount can be made in the lower part at the final stage. It will make the structure more stable and allow you to position your legs comfortably.

To continue the work, you can also attach benches to the table - making them part of a single structure. It is better to connect the bench to the table with special wooden planks using nails or long pins. For reliability, you will also need washers and nuts. The seats themselves are made according to a similar principle, only their height, naturally, is lower than the table, and the fastenings should be even more reliable - it is better to make cross-shaped ones.

The final stage is painting. Gray, brown, natural tones. Bright colors look too eclectic, unless you have a modern country house design, and instead of trees there is artificial vegetation.

And a few more words about sizes. As a rule, country tables are long, but not too wide - this makes it easier and more convenient to approach them. Do not install them too close to bushes, especially thorny ones, gooseberries or cherries; approaching them will be painful.

The distance from the fruit trees must also be reasonable, otherwise Newton’s experiment can be repeated, but it will fail. Height country tables, as a rule, is made medium, since both adults and children usually sit at them. So, with built-in seats, it is better not to over-inflate the design.

How to organize lighting

This question is relevant both for small night tables and for work products on which a computer is installed. You can put a small floor lamp on the night “bureau”; it is reasonable to extend the wire with the switch to the bed, so that every time you do not reach for the table and do not drop the lamp in the dark. On the desktop, it also makes sense to use a table lamp, but as we experiment with homemade designs, other more interesting possibilities arise.

If you make a small “superstructure” over the table from several panels - plywood and chipboard, and securely attach them with nails, then under them you can install a regular light bulb, or better yet, an LED. It will be more effective to use two or three small point LEDs. They will provide high-quality and uniform lighting.

A child who studies at a table, and an adult while working, will be able to read at any time without any problems. To work at a computer (so that the light does not shade the screen), it will be possible to turn on only one point of lighting, which can reasonably be placed a little to the side - it will become a source of dim light.

Among modern design concepts, there are also options for lighting tables from below, through the tabletop structure, but it will be problematic to independently cope with such a complex “technical specification” without a qualified electrician, and the practical benefits of such designs leave much to be desired.

The choice of light temperature for almost any table design is purely individual and depends rather on the place of use. In classic small bedrooms Warm color combinations will be relevant.

On the contrary, cool shades will fit more harmoniously into the kitchen interior. A lot depends on the style. High-tech, for example, is often designed specifically for cool colors. Accents in classics, colonial style and some loft variations, on the contrary, are better placed on the warm segment.

Forms

The table can be made absolutely anything, completely carved, but the design has already developed several classic and practical shape ideas. Among them:

• Rectangular. These tables were popular in almost all historical eras. In Russia, boyars gathered behind them, they served as a place for peasants to eat in huts and the basis of tavern life.

In Soviet times, they were slightly replaced by other forms - square, designed to minimize the living space as such. Nowadays, rectangular tables are no longer associated with the ideas of dominance and patriarchy, but have retained their immanent massiveness and hardness. More often used in large rooms. Suitable for a cottage, living room, spacious kitchen.

• Square. Products of this shape allow you to perfectly organize space. Their use is reasonable and economical. In addition, there is always the opportunity to move such tables. Often there are folding models that turn from square to rectangular.

Making such a product yourself is not easy. However, you can simply make two identical tables. Let us clarify that in terms of the homemade approach, it is square and rectangular tables that are suitable for “testing the pen” of novice craftsmen. And it’s easy to make, and the field for experimentation is wide.

• Rounded. A round or oval piece of furniture is suitable as a coffee table or night table. This perfect shape for apartments where families with children live, as it avoids unpleasant collisions with sharp corners. Technically, making them is more difficult, but the most unexpected objects can always come to the rescue, for example, car tires.

• Designer forms. The edges of tables do not have to be smooth. Sometimes they are made curved. Products can be rounded on one side, having right angles on the other. Triangular models are becoming increasingly common.

For example, in the kitchen a table that is rectangular in relation to the seating and rounded towards the sink and cabinets will look advantageous. Guests will be able to sit comfortably, and the hostess or host, while treating them, will not constantly bump into corners. Naturally, the production of such models will require higher technical skills. The main difficulty will be how to cut out the appropriate shape. This also imposes some restrictions on the materials used - beams, boards and logs are technically inapplicable in many such structures.

How to make from scrap materials

Sometimes it’s hard to contain your imagination, and then very interesting options for improvised “offices” are born, which can be used both outdoors and in modern high-tech interiors and not only - even at work. It is not difficult, for example, to make a table from a car wheel, or rather a tire. Attach chipboard to it on one side - slightly smaller than the radius, and on the other - legs. Can be decorated side surfaces and a lid of your choice.

If you pull the table with fibers or ropes, you will also get an ottoman - two in one. To create more effective fastenings, stock up on liquid nails. The lid of such furniture can be made removable and subsequently stored in the “wheel” whatever your heart desires. With the right approach, such a hiding place will even become a mini-safe, where it will be possible to protect things at least from children, and not every unlucky thief who breaks into your home will guess such a little trick.

Nobody bothers you to assemble old boxes into a useful structure: you will get a kind of interesting labyrinth table. However, you need to be very careful here - many craftsmen who posted their creations from boxes on the Internet ended up with something more reminiscent of an urn. To avoid this, do not leave too much free space in the center of the structure.

Another, perhaps even more extreme option is to design a table based on an old suitcase. Such Soviet colossuses are waiting for the hour of their disposal on many balconies of the country, and perhaps now their finest hour has come. Just don’t literally rely on exceptional Soviet quality - it’s better to strengthen the product with sheets of, say, plywood. You will also need legs and wheels.

Disinfect the product before starting work. At the final stage, it can be varnished, painted or covered with fabric. This option is suitable for colonial and various retro styles, and in general it will look at least original in any room. Old frames can also be used usefully when working on a table - the main thing is to strengthen them well. With adequate design, you can achieve all the benefits of the pop art style effect.

A table made of pallets in a loft style will decorate almost any interior of a modern living room. You can also make an interior object from pallets, from an old window sill or countertop (with an antique effect), from ceramic tiles, or corrugated pipes. A table made from a profile or water pipe is actually a fashionable idea. And in general, almost anything is suitable for creating creative furniture: from old chests and barrels to mirrors, rolls of wallpaper and batteries - the main thing is to trust your imagination, sense of style and technical skills in working with materials and tools.

Beautiful interior placement ideas

And finally, let's look at some interesting examples of homemade tables in various interiors. Let's start with the dacha. A large table made of varnished boards will fit well at a distance of several meters from the plantings. A light or dark brown color will harmonize perfectly with greenery. We divide the tabletop into five parts along the narrow part (according to the number of boards). By fastening them from below, we will maintain the effect of naturalness and naturalness.

The table will also be secured at the bottom by two floors, on which it will be convenient to place your feet. The benches are also attached to the table (consisting of three boards each). The advantageous design is emphasized by additional neat carvings on the sides. As a result, we have before us almost an example of the pre-revolutionary tsarist Russian style of the mid-19th century, or even modernism (depending on how you look at it).

It was in this setting that connoisseurs of rural idyll greeted guests at the beginning of the 20th century, organized creative meetings, exhibitions and even theatrical performances. This table does not look old-fashioned; it seems to continue the interior of a classic country house, where there is at least glass and metal.

Another example. River table for the living room. The easiest way to make a transformer with your own hands is to make an imitation of it, that is, do not use a plug-in structure in your work, but paint the product accordingly. In essence, this is a classic wooden table with a textured surface that will sit well next to a sofa or armchairs.

It is better to choose the color depending on the style of the room. Light wood will harmonize with light light tones and vice versa. The painted part (blue or its shades) should be in harmony with the chandelier or ceiling. Low vases with flowers or herbs will look beautiful on such a table. How simpler design such a table, the better - it can be used both as a coffee table and as a dining table.

The next idea - for a corner computer table - is also quite realistic for doing it yourself. We will make the corner parts rectangular, and the one protruding towards us will be of an arbitrary, but wide and comfortable shape, so that you can put your hands on it and place the keyboard. The materials we use are plywood or chipboard.

Among the night tables, it would be practical and easy to make two-level option. It’s easier to make it rectangular, but if your skills allow, it’s better to make it round. The lower overlap is placed at a level of 10-15 cm from the floor, the upper - at the height of the mattress.

For a bedroom decorated in dark colors, a soft dark texture is suitable. The table can even be painted black. It will thus become a focal point of color in the room, giving additional contrast to the bed and floor. A pleasant visual effect will appear if you place a decanter of water and a glass on it.

And the last example is a compact small night bureau with two drawers. In this case, we will select dark colors. The wood will need to be well processed and varnished. The design of the drawers is as simple as possible.

The night table matches color scheme(dark gray) with the headboard and effectively harmonizes with light shades walls, bed linen and floor mat. The height of the product matches the height of the bed. On the table is a small floor lamp with warm light.

As can be seen from the examples, a high-quality homemade table will decorate almost any interior, and, in addition, will give the room originality and uniqueness.