Each of us at least once in our life was faced with the task of hanging a shelf, painting or other object in our apartment, and since the walls of the domestic housing stock are predominantly concrete, this occupation requires some skill and the necessary tool at hand.
Sometimes this procedure takes on a non-trivial nature, because the walls can have a heterogeneous structure, including iron reinforcement or crushed stone, and the usual concrete is notable for its considerable strength, therefore today we will tell the reader about how to make a hole in a concrete wall and what is needed for this ...
First of all, you need to decide on the tool with which we will drill the wall - the choice is between a drill and a hammer drill. If you have only one of these tools at your disposal, then the agony of choice disappears by itself, but for those who plan to rent equipment, we recall that a hammer drill is a device designed specifically for this type of work, and therefore in most cases will do better. And the available range of dimensions of the outlet section is much larger than that of a drill.
But the drill also has its advantages, for example, when it comes to foam concrete structures, the perforator will simply crumble such a base. Remember that the drill must be a hammer drill, a hammer drill will not bring results and will most likely be damaged. Therefore, if you are wondering whether it is possible to drill a concrete wall with a drill, then know that the answer depends on the type of drill and the material of the wall itself.
Drill
An impact drill differs from the more common non-impact drill in that the movement of the drill in it is carried out using special ratchets with teeth. It is very simple to use, you just need to put the instrument into the shock rotation mode and get down to business. Even more important for the success of the component are nozzles suitable for our task - drills, read their list in one of the paragraphs below.
Beyond the choice the right tool and consumables for him, we note a couple more features of drilling concrete walls with a drill. If you nevertheless undertake to work with a hammer drill, then interrupt while drilling and help with your hands, driving in a pointed drill with a hammer, then continue using the drill. If the drill is underpowered, let it rest more often to avoid overheating.
In general, nothing is impossible, and if you wish and diligence, you can probably cope with the wall, having in your arsenal not quite suitable tools for this, but remember that if the surface does not lend itself, it is better to postpone the venture if you do not want to say goodbye to your drill.
Perforator
With this tool, everything is simple:
- To begin with, we check its serviceability, we clean the shaft from debris.
- Insert the drill until it clicks
- We bring the tool perpendicular to the wall and start drilling with a little pressure. The drill, if the process is long, is moistened from time to time with plain water so that it does not overheat.
- If the drill is stuck, then we simply take it out of the punch, insert a tool of a smaller diameter and try to use it to free the stuck object, expanding the hole.
What drills are suitable
As promised, we are considering drills suitable for our venture. The following will work for us: 
- Concrete drill bits with a victorious tip - do a good job with the material due to the cutting edge made of carbide-based teeth. The safety margin is enough even for drilling metal, but the impact mode quickly renders them unusable. If you need to make a hole between the fittings, this is the best option.
- Diamond core bit for non-hammer drilling is a modern bit that cuts material of any strength due to diamond spraying.
- Crown KS - diamond crystals have settled in them on the cutting edge, which makes them something in between the two previous types.
Welcome to my site! Today we will touch upon one burning question, namely, how to drill a concrete wall with an ordinary drill if you do not have a hammer drill.
Such questions arise from the desire to save money - who wants to spend money on perf? Although you once found money for a drill. Of course, I understand that when you bought it, you wanted to save money, since the puncher is more expensive. Or maybe they just didn't know that you couldn't take concrete with it.
Eh, you could have added a little and you would have got a tool that easily combines these two functionalities. And now they would just drill and that's it. And if a hole was needed in wood or plastic, the perf would do it here too.
Well, okay, what am I preaching to you? You came for advice. Well, I will offer one old-fashioned version.
So with the help this method you can drill concrete with both a percussion and a non-impact machine. Of course, it will take a lot of time, but in the absence of a puncher, you can do that.
For work, in addition to a drill and drill, you will also need a punch. I hope you have it. If not, then it does not cost like a perf - you can fork out a little. 
The order of work is as follows:
- We put the punch to the place where the hole is needed, and beat on it with a hammer until a small depression is obtained
- Then we drill in this place before the drill hits the pebbles or rubble, which are the concrete filler. If it rests against the reinforcement, then you need to either change the place of drilling, or drill it with a drill for metal
- Next, we again take the punch and hit it on the pebbles or rubble
- Drilling again
- We repeat the procedures until the desired depth is obtained
As you can see, the method is rather difficult, but quite feasible. That is, here we carry out the work that the punch does on the go with a punch manually. Since the obstacles are mainly stones, they must be destroyed. The drill copes with the solution.
Diamond drilling
But there is still a normal way of drilling concrete with a drill. It is carried out using diamond crowns. But this is me, for general information... This method is not suitable for the home, because the crowns themselves cost so much that it is better to buy a perforator.
Well, in addition, for diamond drilling and devices use powerful and mainly specially designed for this, with water cooling and a clamping device. Do you want such a thing for your home? 
Well, okay, okay, they are more modest. But all the same, there is no need to have one at home. 
Thus, in order to confidently work with concrete, I advise you to save up for a hammer drill. Well, for now, use the described option. After all, it happens that the hole is needed right now - you won't wait for the required amount to be accumulated.
17.05.2014 08:33
Quite often with renovation works ah we have to drill a solid concrete base - be it holes for hanging shelf, place for an outlet or work on installing a new ceiling. And the task is quite difficult, as it might seem at first glance. Moreover, concrete is a very heterogeneous and extremely dense material.
Let's figure out how to properly and what is the best way to drill concrete at home.
How to drill a concrete wall?
1. Conventional drills are not suitable for concrete. It is better to use solid carbide drills, for example, winder. Such drills for concrete have at the ends special brazed inserts made of carbide material (mainly a mixture of tungsten carbide and cobalt in a ratio of 10 to 90%). Carbide tips are easily recognizable - they have the shape of a kind of "house".
2. If the holes are planned to be few and they are relatively narrow, then at home you can use a drill with
shock loading function. An impact drill at home is suitable for holes in concrete with a diameter of no more than 12-13 mm, otherwise it is better to take a more expensive hammer drill. As for a conventional drill ("hammerless"), it is advisable to use it for concrete only as a last resort, if you do not have other working tools at hand.
3. The hammer drill is suitable for any drilling in concrete - it is more effective due to its “crushing” function, although it is more expensive than a hammer drill. In the hammer drill, the rotation of the drill is combined with its reciprocating movement, which makes the drilling work much faster. The hammer drill is good when a lot of drilling work is foreseen (for example, when you need to fasten the lathing to the ceiling or walls). Keep in mind that a hammer drill is more powerful than a drill. Therefore, for example, for foam concrete (aerated concrete), it is not suitable, as it will completely "collapse" the wall. And when drilling with a hammer drill ordinary concrete do not overdo it - make sure that the plaster does not fall off.
4. For the hammer drill, special drills ("SDS Plus" and "SDS-Max") of various diameters are used - from 4-5 mm to 7-8 cm. future dowels, and just in case "plus or minus" a couple of neighboring sizes.
5. In addition to drilling with a hammer drill and hammer drill, there is another way - the so-called diamond drilling... Only this option requires special drilling rigs and diamond drills... This type of concrete drilling is very expensive, and, as a rule, a team of master repairmen is hired for it. Diamond drilling is used in the case when a lot of repair work on drilling a concrete base is planned, or is needed large holes or longitudinal grooves (for example, when laying communications in a wall or floor). The advantage of this method is that after the drilling rig there is no dust left - it supplies water to the hole, washing away the dust and cooling the drill.
Concrete drilling stages
1. Before starting work, be sure to think if there are any communications, cables, etc. in this place, so as not to damage anything.
3. The outer part of the concrete is usually looser than the inner layers. Therefore, before starting drilling in concrete, be sure to mark and expand the point of the future hole, that is, deepen (wrap) the base of the drill entry in this place. This is to ensure that the drill does not slip or move to the side. For the core, you can use a hammer and a large sharp nail, a self-tapping screw or a special dowel.
4. During work, hold the working tool perpendicular to the concrete base otherwise there is an increased risk of the drill breaking.
5. If you are drilling a hole with a hammer drill, switch modes from time to time. In order to "hit" the surface, enable the "hit" option in the drill.
6. As a drill, as well as a drill (perforator), it is necessary to "rest" from time to time - about once every 10-15 minutes. pause work.
7. Still such a moment - the same victorious drills do not like overheating, therefore, with a strong operating load, their tips must be periodically cooled with water.
8. For work on concrete, you will also need a triangular solid steel punch and an ordinary hammer - suddenly there are crushed stone in the concrete. By the way, an old victory drill is also suitable as a punch. If reinforcement or stones (crushed stone) are encountered during the drilling process, they are removed separately. The armature can be processed with ordinary tools (punch and traditional metal drill), but stones lend themselves well only to a punch.
9. Suddenly, you urgently need to make a couple of holes for the shelf, and you have only a regular drill (without impact mode) at hand, then during the drilling process, if necessary, you can periodically insert the punch into the hole and make several blows on it with a hammer, and then turn it in the hole , then - drill again, etc. Remember that the drill itself must be carbide-tipped.
10. Periodically remove cement chips and dust from the working hole - they interfere with drilling. They can be removed with a vacuum cleaner or natural brush.
11. If the drill is stuck, do not loosen it, but carefully detach the tool, then put on a larger diameter drill and release the stuck tip, being careful not to touch it.
12. It is necessary to drill holes in concrete 1 cm longer than the length of the dowel, so that the latter will fit into the wall without any problems.
Successful renovation!
The ability to drill holes in concrete is a useful and convenient skill. With it, you can easily hang shelves, hang pictures, install lights and do a lot more housework quickly and safely. The concrete drilling process is quite simple, but with correct selection tools and understanding of the principles of work, you will save yourself a huge amount of time.
Steps
Part 1
Preparation for work- Observe safety measures. This includes wearing goggles to keep out concrete chips, earplugs to avoid damaging your hearing, and thick work gloves to protect your hands from increased friction and hot drills. For long-term works where a lot of dust is generated, it is also recommended to wear a respirator.
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Insert a high quality concrete drill into the tool. Concrete drills with carbide tips (or, as the packaging may indicate, “impact drills”) are specially designed for impact drills and can withstand the stress of hammer drilling in hard concrete. The length of the fluted drill bit should be at least the depth of the hole you intend to drill, as these grooves are important for extracting the generated dust from the hole.
Adjust the drilling depth. Some drills have the ability to adjust the drilling depth or a special stop. Read the user manual for the instrument to learn how to use it. If your device is not equipped with a drilling depth stop, measure and mark with a pencil or masking tape required depth holes on the drill itself. If you are unsure of the hole depth you need, follow the guidelines below.
Handle the drill correctly. Hold the drill with one hand like a pistol with forefinger on the start button. If the drill has an additional handle, grasp it with your other hand and use it to grip the tool more securely. Otherwise, just grab the drill from the bottom with your other hand closer to the back of the case.
Buy or rent an impact drill. Drilling holes in concrete is easier with a hammer drill or hammer drill (in the case of large jobs). These tools will allow you to crush the concrete with the reciprocating blows of the drill and remove the resulting chips by rotating it. Doing this job with a conventional drill will be slow and difficult, since concrete is not as easy to drill as wood or metal. For any work that goes beyond drilling a few holes in decorative (rather than structural) concrete surfaces such as modern softer kitchen countertops from stone chips, do not be stingy to pay a little more money for renting a percussion instrument.
Explore the tool. Read the owner's manual and remember the meaning of all buttons and switches on the instrument. You should know well how to handle the instrument before moving on to the next step.
Part 2
Drilling concrete-
Continue drilling, but with more force. Switch to hammer mode (if your drill has one). Place the drill on the basting hole, exactly perpendicular to the concrete surface. Start drilling again with firm, but not excessive pressure on the drill, so that the drill begins to sink into the concrete. Gradually increase the rotational speed of the drill and the pressure on it, if necessary, but remember that while doing this, the drill should remain under your complete control and in a stable position. The concrete is not uniform enough that the drill can slip easily if it gets caught in an air pocket or void.
- Apply enough pressure to the drill so that it maintains its position, but do not push it forward too much (this increases wear and tear on the drill and could break it). How hard to press on the drill, you will understand from your own practical experience.
Mark the point to drill the hole. Use a soft pencil to place a dot or cross mark on the wall where you want to drill the hole.
Drill a basting hole. Place the drill with the drill to the mark and briefly run it at a slow speed (if it is adjustable on your device) or make a few short clicks on the start button (if there is no speed adjustment). You should have a 3–6 mm indentation that will help you guide the drill correctly when drilling the main hole.
When landscaping an apartment, it becomes necessary to mount all kinds of objects on the walls and ceiling - photographs, paintings, lamps, mirrors, curtains, shelves, TV, baseboards and much more.
In order to hang a photograph or a small painting, of course, it is not worth drilling the wall. It is enough to hammer in a small nail. Not every carnation is suitable for this business. The best way to use a wall plug is the nails from the brackets that secure computer network cables to the walls. These studs are of sufficient length, thick and hardened. It turns out to hammer even into a concrete wall.
Performing the operation of drilling holes in walls with modern equipment with a power tool will not present more difficulty if you know how to properly drill. It will save you from unnecessary cleaning and keep your property intact if you use a dust-free drilling jig.
How to drill a wall
A better tool than a hammer drill has not yet been invented for drilling holes in brick and concrete walls. But rarely can anyone afford the luxury of having such an expensive tool in the household. Usually buy an electric impact drill.
Drill selection
When buying an electric drill, you need to be guided by the following specifications below.
The power of the drill must be at least 600 W. Revolutions up to 2500 per minute and the possibility of their smooth adjustment from zero to maximum. The presence of a reverse rotation (switch for the direction of rotation of the drill clockwise or counterclockwise). The chuck is best of all quick-clamping, you will not have to waste time clamping the drills and finding the constantly lost key. The diameter of the drills clamped in the chuck is up to 12 mm.
Presence of the included hammer drilling function. Of course, when this function is turned on, a drill will not become a full-fledged puncher, but it will be much easier and faster to drill walls, and here's why. Brick, cement and concrete withstand very well static load- pressure. But they are easily destroyed by dynamic influences - blow. Karate players, due to a strong blow, easily break a brick in two with the edge of the palm. When drilling with a drill without an impact function, there is a simple pressure of the drill and it is difficult for the cutting edge to catch on the material, so drilling is slow and the drill gets very hot due to friction. Drilling with a blow is quite different. The drill, upon impact, pokes out a part of the material with the cutting edge, and, hitting into the formed recess, breaks off a portion of the material particles. Something like chiseling with a chisel happens.
Drill selection
Walls made of wood, drywall, foam concrete are successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. For walls made of brick, stone or concrete, you need a carbide drill. It differs from steel by welded on conventional drill carbide cutting edges are usually defeated. Less commonly artificial diamond.
The victorious insert is clearly visible at the end of the upper drill. It is enough to have 2 victorious drills with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm on the farm.
With drills with victorious surfacing, you can drill a hole no more than 10-15 cm deep. For drilling to a greater depth, for example, to drill through a wall, a drill is used. Drills for drilling brick and concrete walls are up to one meter long and are designed to drill holes only with a hammer drill. In a drill, even the cutting edges are not sharp, but rounded to increase their wear resistance. A drill with a hammer drill function can also be successfully drilled with a drill.
Drills are available with shank diameters of 10 and 18 mm, with special grooves of the SDS + or SDS-max standard for fastening, but they also clamp well in a conventional chuck. The standard and diameter of the bit are stamped on the shank.
If you need to go through a thick wall with a drill, for example, half a meter, then the passage is performed in several stages with drills of the same diameter, but of different lengths. This is necessary for safety and faster drilling. First, they drill the wall with a 20 cm drill to a depth of 10-15 cm, then with a longer drill to a depth of 30-35 cm and finish drilling with a 50 cm drill. The drill should be powerful enough for such work. Of course, the drill for such a load is not designed and its use is permissible only in exceptional cases. Better to do this kind of work, rent a real hammer drill.
How to drill a wall
Before proceeding with the drilling of a wall or ceiling, you need to make sure that they do not pass under the intended place in the plaster electric wires or other cables. Otherwise, you can damage the electrical wiring and get energized yourself.
How not to get caught in the wire
It is necessary to inspect the wall for the presence of a switch, a socket. Usually, in a vertical direction, wires go up from them to the junction box. But verticality is ideal. This rule is rarely observed in practice by electricians, saving the wire, often hidden wiring laid diagonally. Here's an example. When I made repairs and moved the counter to another place, after removing the old wallpaper, the following picture opened. You can clearly see how the wire was laid to the meter.
But still, the wire will run from the switch to the nearest box. From the chandelier, the wire will also go to the nearest box.
Usually the wires are recessed to a depth of no more than 10 mm. To check it, it is enough to use a blunt tool, for example, a screwdriver, to poke through the wall to this depth. If no wires were found, then you can start drilling. And yet, just in case, to a depth of 20 mm, you should not press hard on the drill and after deepening for every couple of millimeters, visually check if the wire is caught.
There are special devices that allow you to determine the location of the wires in the wall. Here are some of them, not expensive, made in China, but, nevertheless, they work well. It also has the function of a metal detector, which allows you to identify the location of metal reinforcement in concrete walls. The device allows you to find copper wiring at a drowning depth of up to 10 mm. Electrical wiring made of aluminum wires, is determined only in the metal detector mode.
Detection of wiring is indicated by a flashing LED and an intermittent beep. In metal detector mode, the diode is constantly on when detected and the sound emitted is continuous. There is a sensitivity regulator, the seeker is powered by an element of the Krone type. Such a device is especially necessary for the installation of suspended and stretch ceilings, because bearing structures they are mounted on self-tapping screws near the ceiling, just where electricians, as a rule, lay the wiring.
Drilling holes in reinforced concrete
Brick walls are drilled with a victory drill without much difficulty. We decided on a place, attached a conductor and drilled a hole by pressing hard on the drill. It happens that a burnt brick comes across in the wall, which is drilled more slowly, the dust is not red, but black. The main thing is to drill at low speeds (200 - 400) with the percussion mode turned on, pressing harder on the handle of the drill, and make sure that the drill does not overheat.
I bring to your attention a small video on which you can see how a brick wall is drilled using an ordinary drill with the function of a perforator and a drill with victorious surfacing. In a brick wall, a sample was made for a box to install an internal electrical outlet.
As you can see, it is not at all difficult to drill a brick. Be careful, the drill during long drilling heats up to a high temperature and it can be severely burned when touched. It is necessary to periodically stop drilling and dip the drill in water.
If concrete wall or the ceiling is not made of 600 or 500 grade cement, then they are drilled as well as brick. In household construction, only 400 grade cement is used. old building sometimes there are columns and ceilings made of high-strength concrete. They are drilled very hard and for a long time.
In the manufacture of concrete blocks and wall panels for strength, iron reinforcement welded to each other, mutually perpendicular, is mounted in them, which are corrugated rods with a diameter of 8-15 mm, and granite crushed stone is added. The winning drill cannot overcome such an obstacle. But there is a simple solution. When, during drilling, the drill suddenly stopped deepening, it means that it has stumbled upon reinforcement or granite. The reinforcement is successfully drilled with an ordinary drill. If you do not have a simple drill at hand and it is permissible to shift the location of the hole, then you can move diagonally up or down. Granite pebbles in concrete crumble from impacts on a drill or a narrow chisel inserted into a hole with a hammer. After each impact, so that the tool does not jam in the concrete and the work goes faster, it is necessary to turn it a quarter of a turn. After the obstacle has been removed, drilling continues with a victorious drill. For a drill with a perforator, granite stones are not an obstacle and are successfully drilled.
Tile drilling
For drilling in tile After marking the drilling point, remove the glaze with a hard-alloyed drill not specially designed for tiles.
This is done very simply, with a core, and in case of its absence, it is possible with an ordinary self-tapping screw or even a thick nail with sharp end with very light blows, chop off the glaze in the place of the future hole and then drill as brick wall at low speeds.
Drilling large holes in the wall
With equipment ventilation ducts and hoods, it becomes necessary to make a hole in the wall large diameter, for example 18 cm. Sometimes you want to hide it in the wall electric meter, and then you need to make a niche in the wall.
At home, this task can be solved using a carbide drill. With a pencil, the contour of the future hole is marked on the wall. On the outside of the marking line, holes are drilled with a carbide drill with a diameter of 8-12 mm with a distance between the edges of the holes about 10 mm. For a hole in the wall with a diameter of 18 cm, you will need to perform about 30 drills with a drill diameter of 10 mm. Next, a sample of the wall material is made using a chisel and a hammer. With a smaller drill diameter, the edges of the hole will be more accurate, but you will have to drill more holes.
If the wall is thick and the length of the drill is not sufficient to obtain a through hole, then you can drill in two steps.
If it is possible to drill a wall from two sides, then first, drilling is performed, as described above, on one side of the wall, then a hole is drilled in the wall for an overhang, that is, a through hole, in the geometric center of the obtained sample. With respect to the resulting hole, a marking is made from the opposite side of the wall and the operation is repeated.
If it is not possible to drill a thick wall from two sides, then you will have to do drilling and sampling in two stages. From the marking line on the outside, another line is applied, at a distance sufficient so that after the first sample in the wall and further drilling, the drill can go deeper into the niche made without touching the edges of the wall.
To reduce the complexity of the work, it is better to immediately purchase a drill of sufficient length.
Drilling depth stop
To control the depth of the hole obtained during the drilling process, you can put a piece of cambric (tubes) of the required length on the drill bit of the drill until it stops in the chuck.
If you do not have a suitable cambric at hand and you need to drill a small number of holes, then you can use ordinary PVC insulating tape by winding several turns of it. This simple tool will speed up your work and save you the trouble of stopping drilling to measure hole depth.
Dust-free drilling jig
Due to the heterogeneity of the walls, especially made of bricks, the drill often "leads" away from the intended place and if there are more than one holes, then the suspended shelf does not hang horizontally or even worse, it cannot be hung, since the installed dowels do not coincide with the fastening loops. You can use a jig in the form of a sheet of plywood with a pre-drilled hole, but when drilling from vibration it can also move and again the result will not be what you expected. But there is simple technology, allowing you to drill two or more holes strictly in the specified places.
Precise hole drilling
It turns out that the problem can be solved very simply by gluing a sheet of any sandpaper with glue or two-sided tape on the entire area of the side of the conductor, which is applied to the wall. At the same time, the adhesion of the conductor to the wall surface increases many times over, and during drilling, the specified accuracy of the positioning of the roller is ensured. The hole will turn out exactly at the markup location.
Depending on the weight of the product and the density of the wall, you have to drill holes for dowels of different diameters, usually 6 or 8 mm. For the versatility of the jig, it is necessary to drill several holes of the desired diameters with an ordinary drill.
To top it off, attach the plate at a right angle to the end of the base of the jig. Thanks to this modification, most of the drilling products will remain on this shelf, which will prevent contamination of the wallpaper and reduce dust spreading in all directions.
The proposed device is indispensable for drilling holes for fixing skirting boards. Drill a hole in the jig at a given height from the shelf. When drilling, put the shelf on the floor and all the holes you get are strictly at the desired height from the floor, which will guarantee a snug fit of the plinth to the floor surface.
Sometimes you have to hang a product on the wall, for which you need to drill several holes in the wall and maintain the distance between them with greater accuracy. If the wall is brick and plastered, then accurate drilling is impossible without a conductor.
For the manufacture of a conductor for precise drilling, a board, a sheet of plywood or metal is suitable. After marking in the sheet, it is drilled with an ordinary drill required amount holes. Consider the case for fixing the product with two screws. One hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill with which the wall will be drilled, the second, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw. After the jig is made, the first hole is drilled in the wall using the jig, for the precise drilling described earlier, and a dowel is driven into the hole.
The conductor is screwed into the hammered dowel with a self-tapping screw, the jig is screwed to the wall, leveled with a water level so that drilled holes were on the same horizontal line.
Thanks to the use of the simplest jig, which can be made in a few minutes from any available material, the holes turned out exactly at a given distance from each other.
Using the same technology, you can drill and whole line holes at a greater distance from each other. In this case, first, the extreme holes are drilled using the above technology, the jig is screwed on with two extreme self-tapping screws, and then all the other holes are checked.
The proposed options for conductors are convenient when renovating an apartment, when dirt is commonplace everywhere.
However, when the renovation is finished and the cleanliness is in place, drilling becomes stressful. I do not want to stain carpets and furniture with concrete or brick chips and dust.
Dust-free drilling
When drilling walls, especially ceilings, flour and sand grains of the drilled material are scattered throughout the room. This is because an impeller is installed inside the drill for cooling the engine, which, while rotating, sucks air into the drill body from the side of the handle, and throws it out heated in the area of the cartridge. This measure makes it possible, with small dimensions, to make a drill of greater power and to protect the drill mechanism itself from dust. And the question of how to protect your home from dust during drilling is left for the owner to decide. I represent simple design allowing for dust-free drilling.
The dust-free drilling jig is a revised version of the previous version, but the shelf has been replaced with a part cut off from plastic bottle... A piece of 9 - 11 ply plywood with a size of 80 × 150 mm is cut out, a hole with a diameter equal to the diameter of the drill plus 1 mm is drilled at a distance of 30 mm from the edge along the center line. On the side on which the sandpaper will be glued, a trapezoidal sample is made with a depth of 2-3 layers of plywood. The sample will serve as a kind of air intake during drilling.
A part is cut off from the plastic bottle so that the rest can be fixed on the jig. The width of the jig base is selected based on the size of the bottle. I took a square bottle, but any 1.5 liter will work. An electrical tape is wound on the threaded part of the bottle neck until a size equal to the inner diameter of the suction pipe of the vacuum cleaner is obtained. When the bottle is bent, holes are formed to form the required configuration. We close them with pieces of the remaining plastic from the bottle and fix them with a stationery stapler. You can cover them with tape. Tightness is not needed here. Gaps of a few millimeters will not play a role, since the suction force of even a low-power vacuum cleaner is excessive.
Then using furniture stapler, along the perimeter of the end of the base of the jig, from the side where the sandpaper is not glued, the formed part of the bottle is fixed. We make a hole in the bottle for a drill. It is better to use the melting method, as the edges forming the hole will become thicker and last longer. I melted it with a soldering iron. It is possible to melt the hole preheated for gas stove until red with a nail.
We connect the vacuum cleaner, turn on the minimum suction power, do test drilling.
The result will please you very much. You will not find a single speck of dust in the circle, nor brick flour on the drilling surface!