They enjoy well-deserved popularity, the process of their construction is associated with high material costs. If you look at things soberly, a wooden fence cannot be built cheaply, and even the considered inexpensive type of fencing from a mesh netting, upon detailed examination and calculation of the estimate, can punch a hole in the family budget. And if you add time and physical effort to the total, it is not surprising that FORUMHOUSE users are looking for ways to simplify and reduce the cost of the construction process.
Of whatmake a cheap fence to the country with their own hands
Then, putting them along the line, he hammered them with a sledgehammer 1 meter into the ground, at a distance of no more than 2 meters from each other.
After that I painted aerial part and connected all the posts with twine in 4 lines.
WAAD
At the top ends of the posts, I made twists from thick copper wire for 2 turns. This is necessary so that the twine does not fly off. He pulled the twine, wrapping it once around the post, going sequentially - from the bottom up. This ensures good tension. If you start pulling the twine from top to bottom, then when you pull the lower lines, the upper ones will weaken.
Stretching the twine, Nikolai "threw" the cable, and the cable did not twine around the posts, but let it go along a tangent (this should compensate for the lengthening / shortening of the cable length in cold weather), screwing it with a wire twist clamp. Moreover, the cable does not go into a tightness, but with a small sagging, 1 cm on each span, and then it is already stretched by twisting it with a twine.
Having received the basis, WAAD I simply threw the net over the upper part of the structure, as if hanging the sheet on a rope to dry, and then grabbed the lower part with twine.
But the easiest way is to make potholders from plastic ties, without tightening them to the end, providing a free play of 1-1.5 cm.
Important: we grab the net only at the bottom, and do not fasten it to the posts. Otherwise, in the places of "tack" it will be torn by the wind, right up to the formation of holes.
Not all cheap types of fences can boast of strength and durability. But here the result is a lightweight, rather opaque extra-budget fence, which has a low windage, because the mesh allows air to pass through. In terms of reliability, it even surpasses other cheap fences without a foundation. A test by strong winds showed that the fence does not fall (it only bends by 2-3 cm, and due to the elasticity of the posts, it immediately returns to its original position). The mesh practically does not fade in the sun, does not tear, does not pop, only sways a little.
There is practically no snow load. The fence also performs a security function. It is impossible to climb over it - the columns are springy. Do not break the mesh, just cut it with a knife. Crawling under the fence is also impossible. The lower cable can only be raised by 20-30 cm. It will not work either by throwing the cigarette butt on fire.
How to make an inexpensive fence around your home.
WAAD
I myself did not expect that the fence would turn out to be so strong, and the installation would be so easy and quick even for one person. The fence is green, it merges with nature and does not look like a foreign element on the site, and by raising the lower edge, you can push the mower under the canvas and calmly mow the grass.
If repairs are necessary (a hole has appeared in the fence, or over time it has faded a little, etc.), there is no need to change the entire material of the fence. We buy the cheapest "facade" roll with a density of 35 g / sq. m, we transfer it to the old one, tie it up, and the fence is as good as new. The fence and reinforcement bar itself does not stick out from the ground by the forces of frost heaving, and if necessary, it can be corrected with a “light movement of the hand”.
The fence fabric follows the topography of the site, flowing around all irregularities, and allows air to pass through the cells without the formation of stagnant zones, which is important for plant growth.
Also, such a fence is optimal as a temporary - intermediate fence, before the construction of a capital fence during the construction of a house, it is also an excellent budget fence from neighbors.
Despite the ease of installation, before making such a budget fence for a summer residence, you should pay attention to a number of nuances and recommendations developed during its operation. In order for the extreme post to provide support when pulling, and not bend (since it has the maximum load), Nikolai hammered in an additional spacer post at an angle of about 45 degrees.
In my opinion, the best way material is a mesh 4 m wide, with a density of 75 to 90 g / sq. m, thrown in two layers. Single-layer fabric, density 35 g / sq. m, practically transparent and capable, perhaps, of performing the function of an obstacle.
The double mesh is more technologically advanced during installation (I threw it over and forgot, without puzzling, how to fix its upper edge), it is more durable and better protects from prying eyes in comparison with a single-layer, but double density. When two nets are layered, the canvases are forced to overlap each other, which makes this budget fence completely opaque.
To simplify all the work, Nikolai also advises to completely abandon the use of twine, because the cable practically does not shorten in cold weather. Therefore, we buy a cable with a diameter of 3 mm in a PVC sheath (this is quite enough) and, wrapping the posts with one loop, we start them, as already described above. Moreover, we throw the upper cable not to the side of the top of the post, but directly above it, making a wire winding.
We offer you to watch our video about how to fence off your site from the world with a translucent wooden fence, and another video about the construction of a fence made of corrugated board.
In this case, the upper part of the canvas will lie perfectly flat and the ends of the posts will not be visible. Alternatively, instead of a cable, you can use wire or reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm on the lags, grabbing it pointwise by welding. Our construction of a fence in the country has been successfully completed!
And after watching our video, you can see the fence made of the facade mesh "live" and get acquainted with other secrets of country life from WAADа.
No one suburban area can't do without a fence. Even if the most friendly relations have developed with neighbors, any owner still seeks to fence his possessions at least along the outer perimeter. Agree, you feel much more comfortable in the yard when you know that you are not being watched, willingly or unwillingly, by strangers. And worries about the safety of their own property stored in the courtyard or outbuildings become less acute. Therefore, the issues of fencing a private house are always among the primary tasks.
Not so long ago, the choice of the design of the fence and materials for its manufacture was not so great. In our time, the variety of options is so wide that it is even difficult to list them. But, probably, one of the most demanded materials is a profiled metal sheet (otherwise it is called a profiled sheet or corrugated board). This is due to the fact that the cost of a set of building materials for the construction of a fence from a profiled sheet is quite affordable for the average homeowner, and work on the construction of such a fence cannot be attributed to tasks increased level complexity, that is, they can be carried out on their own.
Let's take a closer look at what the advantages of such a fence are, let's see how to build a fence from a professional sheet with our own hands, without resorting to the help of a hired construction crew and rent of special equipment.
Some hosts suburban areas treat fences made of corrugated board with some prejudice, considering them some kind of frivolous fence for their territory. And it is completely in vain - a professional sheet fence has a number of advantages that make it extremely popular.
- One of the most important advantages is the speed of construction of such a fence. Probably none of the other types of fences can compare in this indicator. At the same time, it is not at all necessary for an amateur craftsman to have any construction qualifications, to have in his home arsenal any complex or specialized professional tools and fixtures. The most difficult operation will probably be electric welding, but if there is no apparatus and appropriate skills, then it is quite possible to do without it.
- The cost of materials for the construction of such a fence is low, and such a fence is becoming one of the most affordable even for families with a low income.
- The fence, unlike the picket fence, turns out to be solid, that is, it completely hides everything that happens in the yard from the field of view of strangers. At the same time, the owner is free to choose the height of the fence on his own (of course, within reasonable limits), since the profiled sheet can be ordered in any length.
- One should not think that such a "tin", as some skeptics call such a fence, will not carry a protective function. If you look at it, then it will be even more difficult for an attacker to climb over a fence from a professional sheet than through any capital fence. This is facilitated by sharp, cutting hands, and, moreover, the upper edge of the sheet does not become a reliable support. It may be argued that a thin steel coating is easy to cut or dismantle - but a wooden fence in this respect is no better, and by and large, to provide a completely insurmountable obstacle for "professional burglars" is generally a very difficult task.
- The fence, subject to all the rules for its installation and use for the construction of high-quality materials, is distinguished by enviable durability. Its service life, without loss of any basic qualities, is estimated at several decades.
- High-quality corrugated board on the fence looks very aesthetically pleasing, and is often matched to, for example, the roof of a house - the buyer is offered a wide range of color options. Modern protective materials, which cover the metal sheet, are able to maintain their original appearance, without fading in the sun, for many years.
- Such a fence is easy to maintain. If the need arises, the contaminated areas can be easily washed with the help of ordinary household chemicals, and then it is easy to "rinse" them with a stream of water from a hose. However, many polymeric coatings of corrugated board, due to their structure, to which dirt does not stick, self-cleaning at the first rain.
- In addition to protection from prying eyes, a solid fence made of corrugated board well dampens street noise, for example, from vehicles passing along the street. It will certainly be naive to talk about any significant "sound insulation", but still the degree of living comfort in this regard will become somewhat higher.
What kind of corrugated board is suitable for building a fence
First of all, deal with the basic material that will be required for the construction of such a fence. This, of course, is about the profiled flooring itself.
By itself, this material is a steel sheet of a certain thickness, usually having a base zinc or aluzinc anti-corrosion coating. On production lines, sheets are rolled through special machines, as a result of which they are given the intended profile. The shape of this profile, as well as the thickness of the initial steel sheet used for the manufacture, also predetermines the purpose of the resulting material.
There are several different types corrugated board, and when choosing a material, you should pay attention to the marking, which includes both letter designations (which speak more about the purpose) and digital indicators (dimensional parameters of the material).
- Letter "N" denotes a material capable of performing the functions of load-bearing building structures... These sheets have a pronouncedly high profile, often equipped with additional stiffening ribs in the form of longitudinal grooves. Purpose - load-bearing wall or roof structures, fixed formwork v monolithic construction, production of containers, etc. The use of this type of corrugated board for the construction of a fence in a private house is completely unjustified.
- Profiled sheeting "NS" is an intermediate "link" between the bearing and wall material. The thickness of the sheet here is not so great, and the profile of the waves usually does not exceed 35 ÷ 40 mm. It is used for wall cladding, including as a loaded element, but already on small buildings. It can be used as a roof covering, for example, for the construction of sheds. Sometimes it is used for the construction of fences, for example, enclosing large construction sites. Despite the versatility of this corrugated board, as a fence around the house, again, this option looks unreasonably expensive, and high strength characteristics material simply remain unclaimed.
- Profiled sheets "C" - specially designed for wall cladding. They do not differ in a large profile height and sheet thickness, and the cost is quite affordable. It is from this category that sheets are usually chosen for light, but strong and reliable fences that enclose private suburban estates. At the same time, for such purposes, the profile height is rarely chosen more than 21 mm - this will be quite enough.
- Finally, profiled sheets of the "MP" series are on sale. This is a versatile material that is widely used for light roofing, for the construction of outbuildings, in the production of insulated sandwich panels. How impossible better fit such a corrugated board and for the construction of a fence.
The table below shows the most common types of corrugated board, the typical areas of their application are indicated. Pay attention - in the name of the variety, after the letter designation, a two-digit number indicates the height of the profile, and then the working (useful) width of the sheet in millimeters is indicated, that is, the space that it occupies after installation and overlap with the adjacent sheet. It is on this value that you need to be guided when calculating the number of sheets for the fence.
| Variety corrugated board | Illustration | Typical areas of application of the material | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| OS | KP | Nc | BUT | SZ | ||
| C8× 1150 (A, B) | Yes | - | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1100 (A, R) | - | Yes | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1100 (H) | Yes | - | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1100 (A, B) | Yes | - | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1100 (R) | - | Yes | - | - | - | |
| C21× 1000 (A) | - | Yes | - | - | Yes | |
| C21× 1000 (V) | Yes | - | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1000 (A) | - | Yes | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1000 (V) | - | - | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1035 (A) | Yes | - | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1035 (H) | - | Yes | - | - | Yes | |
| × 1000 (A) | Yes | - | - | - | Yes | |
| C44× 1000 (A) | - | Yes | - | - | Yes | |
| C44× 1000 (V) | Yes | - | - | - | Yes | |
| H60× 845 (A) | - | Yes | - | - | Yes | |
| H60× 845 (H) | - | - | Yes | Yes | Yes | |
| H75× 750 (A, B) | - | - | Yes | Yes | Yes | |
| H114× 600 (A, B) | - | - | Yes | Yes | - | |
| Abbreviations indicate: "OS" - wall cladding; "KP" - roof covering; "NK" - bearing structures; "BUT" - fixed formwork; "SZ" - construction of a fence. |
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The length of the sheets is usually not regulated - as a rule, manufacturers on their equipment are able to produce corrugated board of any reasonable length (limited to 12 meters) and then, at the request of the consumer, cut it to the desired size with high precision.
The thickness of the metal sheet can also vary, even for corrugated board of the same type of profile. Often, this indicator is also indicated in the product labeling, as a fractional number. For example, "0.6" indicates that sheet steel is used with a thickness of 0.6 mm. For the construction of fences around the house, material is usually purchased with a thickness of 0.45 ÷ 0.6 mm - this is enough.
So, for the construction of a fence, the optimal solution would be wall (C) or universal (MP) corrugated board with a wave height from 18 to 21 mm. You can use another one, but a profile with a height of 8 ÷ 10 mm will still be "weak", especially in windy areas, and with a wave of more than 30 mm, it will simply lead to additional costs without special "preferences" for the owners.
A few notes on sheet coverage. Probably, there are not many people willing to enclose their house with a fence made of simple "galvanized" - in this case, the feeling of comfort, habitability of the site cannot be achieved, and the impression of some kind of "temporary" or "incessant construction" will be formed. This means that it is necessary to purchase sheets with one or another polymer coating.
- The most affordable in terms of price are profiled sheets with a polyester coating. The low price does not at all mean low quality - this material of the protective and decorative metal coating is very resistant to temperature extremes, to corrosion, practically not afraid of aggressive ultraviolet radiation, therefore, retains its original appearance for a long time, without fading in the sun. However, there is also a very significant drawback - such a coating is not resistant to abrasive loading, and scratching it to metal with careless handling costs nothing.
In this regard, the situation is better with the matte polyester coating. It is always applied in a thicker layer, more resistant to scratching, and small defects on it will not be so noticeable. In addition, many people like it more because it does not give glare in the sun, and often the profiled sheets painted in this way are also given a very interesting textured pattern.
- Profiled sheeting with pural coating is a completely different level of quality and durability of the material. The main component is pural, which is a multipolymer composite that combines all positive traits included in its composition of polyurethane, acrylic and polyamide.
Such a corrugated board can serve without loss decorative qualities up to 50 years, as it staunchly resists almost any possible external influences, except, of course, manifestations of pronounced vandalism. As a rule, pural-coated trapezoidal sheets are more often used for roofing work. Of course, they are ideal for a fence, but in this area such material does not find much use simply because of the very high cost, which is many times higher than the price of a profiled sheet with a conventional polyester coating.
- The plastisol coating, the base component of which is polyvinyl chloride, deserves good reviews. It is always applied in a thick layer reaching 200 microns, which creates reliable protection sheet, including from abrasive load.
Profiled sheets with such a coating are presented in a wide range of designs, both simply in RAL colors and with a textured surface that very faithfully imitates natural materials.
There are, however, such material and a number of significant disadvantages. So, he does not like high temperatures, so it is not recommended for use in regions with hot climates. Not all is well and with resistance to ultraviolet light - on the sunny side, the coating will begin to fade. So if such material is purchased, then it is better to give preference light shades so that the loss of color saturation is less noticeable.
Most often, plastisol-coated corrugated board is used for roofing work. For the fence, its acquisition still looks dubious. Although, in terms of resistance to dust storms, hail, and other mechanical natural influences, this material probably has no equal.
- Finally, profiled sheets are produced with PVDF coating, which is also a composite composition, but already based on acrylic (up to 20%) and polyvinyl fluoride (80%). It can be considered a "champion" in resistance to any external influences and in longevity - the manufacturer promises 50 or more years of impeccable service. Such a corrugated board is suitable for any climate and for any operating conditions, including in unfavorable conditions due to industrial emissions.
However, in this case too, the excessively high price for such profiled sheets seriously limits their widespread use.
The average owner of a country house sees it as much more profitable to purchase an affordable corrugated board with a polyester coating, even with a certain margin, in order to replace the damaged area if necessary.
Fence device from profiled sheet
The general scheme for the construction of the simplest fence made of corrugated board
Before planning the purchase of the material necessary for the construction, it is necessary to understand for yourself the scheme according to which the construction of the fence will continue. In this publication, we will not dwell on too complex structures that require large-scale work and the presence of certain skills in general construction work - the main emphasis will be on the type of fence that any owner can handle independently.
This scheme does not imply a common strip foundation - each support metal post will be installed separately. With competent, high-quality performance, such a design fully justifies itself.
So, for each support, a hole-well of the required depth is dug in (drilled) (pos. 1). In order for the fence to stand for a long time and not undergo deformations, the deepening must be carried out below the level of soil freezing. It can be taken as a conventional unit of 500 mm, that is, if the soil in a given region freezes, for example, to a depth of 0.8 meters, then the optimal well depth will be 1.3 meters. However, there may also be dependencies on the specifics of the composition of the soil, and it is best to check this burial parameter at the local construction organization - they know it for sure.
Metal pipes are used as supports (pos. 2). By and large, the profile of the pipe does not really matter - both round and rectangular (square) will do. But nevertheless, it will be much more convenient to work with a pipe with a square cross-section - the optimal size is 60 × 60 mm (in a calm, windless area, 50 × 50 can be used), with a wall thickness of 3 mm. If ordinary steel pipes are used, then a diameter of at least 50 mm is required for the rack.
After installing the rack, the well is concreted (pos. 3) and filled with sand and gravel backfill (pos. 4). More details about the merits of this particular approach will be discussed below.
They are horizontally fixed to the posts by welding or some reliable mechanical connection of the jumper-lag (pos. 5). Their number depends on the height of the fence: if it does not exceed two meters, then it is enough to install one lintel at the top and bottom, deviating from the marked edges of the fence plane by 250-300 mm. If the fence is higher, then another crossbar is placed in the center. The same principle is followed with higher fences, based on the approximate ratio - one cross-bar-lag per meter of fence height.
Sheets of corrugated board (pos. 6) will be fixed to these jumper-lags by rows of roofing screws or other fasteners with overlap one on top of the other on one wave. As a rule, it is practiced to install fasteners through one wave, in its lower part adjacent to the cross member.
As you can see, the scheme is simple to execute, if you approach each operation for installing such a fence with knowledge of the matter.
What and in what quantity is required for the construction of a fence from a profiled sheet?
In order to correctly determine the required amount of materials, you need to know the initial settings - what will be the length of the future fence (total, and separately - on each side of the fence), and what is its planned height.
- It is not difficult to determine the number of sheets of corrugated board - you just need to divide the perimeter of the fence (or the length of the side - if the calculation is carried out for a specific area) by the working (mounting) width of the sheet, and then round the resulting value up to a whole.
The length of the ordered sheets depends on the planned height of the fence. At the same time, it is taken into account that the sheets will be attached from the ground surface with a certain clearance, which can be from 100 to 150 mm. It is impossible to allow the profiled sheets to run into the ground.
- Number and length of fence posts. The length depends on the depth of their immersion in the ground and on the height of the fence. For example, if wells are drilled for pillars with a depth of 1.3 meters, and a fence with a height of 2 meters is planned, then the length of a profile pipe 60 × 60 × 3 should be considered 3.3 meters. Since the fence will be raised above the ground level, it will completely hide the upper ends of the posts, and they will not be noticeable from the outside.
The distance between the posts is taken from 2 to 3 meters. The minimum distance is taken if the fence is being built in an open area where the wind can roam. On areas well protected, for example, by a forest, from the effects of the wind, poles can be placed less often, but still not exceeding the maximum distance of three meters.
For a solid fence, which will be considered in this publication, the multiplicity of the length of the gap between the posts does not matter - they are simply installed at an equal distance. But if the fence is planned to be sectional, that is, with filling in each of the spans so that the column remains in sight, then it is better to choose an interval such that it fits the whole, or at least a multiple of 0.5, the number of corrugated sheets. Otherwise, a lot of material will simply go into trimming.
The number of pillars is estimated for each side of the future house, based on the planned distance between them. After that, it will be easy to calculate the exact interval, up to a centimeter, and already adhere to it when conducting accurate markings on the ground during construction work.
- For cross-members-lags, a profile pipe will also be the optimal solution. It is not difficult to determine its total amount - the perimeter of the fence is multiplied by the number of crossbars. But with the dimensions in cross-section, it is probably necessary to clarify.
In the information posted on the Internet, pipes of 40 × 20 mm are often mentioned for such purposes, and some owners, simply for reasons of economy, purchase material 40 × 20 × 1.5 mm. And then, judging by the numerous reviews, they are faced with the fact that the fence turns out to be "thin", and in windy weather begins to "walk" threateningly. That's right, the aforementioned pipe for such a role is clearly rather weak.
If you already buy 40 × 20, then only with a wall thickness of 2 mm. In general, a 40 × 25 × 2.0 pipe will nevertheless become optimal - a seemingly small increase in size gives an almost one and a half-fold increase in the lateral rigidity of the enclosing structure. This is especially important for those areas where strong gusts of wind are not uncommon.
The logs are usually connected to the fence posts by welding. By the way, this is another reason to use a pipe with a wall of at least 2 mm. Welding thin one and a half millimeter steel without a single burn is a very difficult task for a novice welder. With a "two" in this regard, it is still much easier.
- However, if there is no welding machine, or when the owner is afraid to spoil the already dug pillars with inept actions, you can apply another mechanical connection, for example, to ordinary bolts. Better yet, try to find special "crabs" mounts on sale that will greatly simplify this task.
The installation of such a bracket should not cause any particular difficulties - everything is quite clear from the above illustration. Fastening is done using the same roofing screws that are used to fix the corrugated board to the crossbars.
An important difference will be that when installing the crossbars by the welded method, they can be joined together at almost any point. And with mechanical fastening, you will have to cut the profile pipes so that their joint falls on the support post.
- Finally, to attach the profiled sheet to the crossbars, you need to have the required number of roofing screws. Their number, of course, will also depend on the size of the fence and its design features.
So, if you apply the rule of screwing screws into every second wave, then for a profiled sheet, for example, C20 or MP20, you will need 4 pieces for each cross member, that is, 8 pieces. with two lags, and 12 pcs. - at three.
Self-tapping screws have a countersink bit-drill, which, with a high-quality screwdriver, allows you to do without preliminary drilling of the bearing profile, and even without punching. The hexagonal head distributes the torque evenly, and the press washer with a vulcanizing rubber gasket reliably protects the connection from moisture penetration, which can cause corrosion of the metal sheet in the place of the hole made.
Self-tapping screws are usually matched to the color of the corrugated board - so they merge with the general surface and become unobtrusive against its background.
Roofing screws have a diameter of 4.8 mm and may vary in length. But in this case, we are interested in 4.8 × 19 mm self-tapping screws. With such a length, the self-tapping screw, having passed through the sheet of metal and one wall of the profile pipe, will not rest against the opposite one.
If you plan to install the lag-jumpers on the "crabs" brackets using these self-tapping screws, then, of course, it is necessary to put in the purchased quantity the necessary stock for these purposes.
- The set of tools for performing work is the most common. You will need shovels and a drill for digging holes for the supports, containers for mixing the solution, a tape measure, a level, a tracing cord - for marking. About welding equipment already said, and to tighten the screws, you need either a screwdriver or a drill with the ability to smoothly adjust the speed, with the head set to 8.
A grinder is required for cutting metal. In addition, it is necessary for cleaning the profile pipes from rust before their obligatory priming - for this, a brush with a metal bristle is installed on it.
In addition, other devices will be used in the work - they will be described below, when describing the very process of installing the fence.
- For concreting and backfilling of the support pillars, cement, sand and gravel (fine crushed stone) will be required. The amount of these materials directly depends on the number of supports and the depth from the installation into the ground.
For the installation of supports, concrete of grade M200 strength will be optimal. The total volume of the solution is small, so there is no need to order it - all the required amount can be prepared directly on site and as needed. And it will help you to correctly determine the required volume of concrete and the "dosage" of the initial ingredients - the online calculator posted below.
Calculator for calculating a solution for concreting a fence post
The construction of a summer cottage fence is a rather laborious process. However, thanks to our instructions, you will learn how to make a fence in the country and significantly save time and energy. In the last article, we examined typical options for country fences, by the example of which you can build a fence from any material. But we will describe the features of the construction of a structure from each of them below. A huge role in the durability and strength of the entire structure is played by the reliability of the supporting structures and foundations.
Foundation - the basis of the construction of the fence
In order for a summer cottage fence to stand on your site for more than a dozen years, you need to approach its construction thoroughly. A correctly laid foundation and correctly installed supports serve as the guarantor of the reliability of the fence. The foundation of the fence, like that of residential buildings, is tape and pole.
Strip foundation
It is customary to fill the strip foundation under heavy structures of the building, on heaving soil, if it is necessary to create a completely fenced area that is not visible from the outside, if it is necessary to exclude the penetration of wild animals and other living creatures into the dacha.
The tape foundation for the fence is made according to the following technology:
- Dig a trench 30 - 80 centimeters deep, for greater reliability, go deeper to a depth of 1.5 meters.
- Make a sandy pillow and pour it over with plenty of water.
- Tie the reinforcement, vary the size of the cell, depending on your desire.
- Erect the fence foundation formwork in such a way that the fence is located at a height of 30-50 centimeters above the ground.
- The formwork is filled with concrete. If you are using the pillars as a support for the canvas, they must be installed and leveled before the foundation is poured.
Column foundation
The pillar foundation is more economical and is suitable, above all, for lightweight building envelopes. When erecting wooden fence on a pillar foundation, it is important to process all wooden parts with a special compound that prevents decay, because such structures are more exposed to moisture from the grass. A well-thought-out and properly made fence on a similar foundation is no less durable than a fence on a strip foundation.
Technology for pouring a pillar foundation for a summer cottage fence:
- Use a garden drill to dig holes for the posts that are 100-150 centimeters deep. Make the diameter 15-30 centimeters larger than the diameter of the pillars. The distance between the posts should be 2-3 meters, depending on the required span width.
- Fill the holes with 20 centimeters of sand with gravel or the sand itself, pour abundantly.
- After you have leveled the pillars, fill the pits with a solution of sand concrete, add crushed stone if desired.
As a result, we got cemented posts for a summer cottage fence. Further, it is customary to attach spans to the posts, if you use ready-made structures, for example, from a chain-link mesh, or logs - horizontal guides, into which pickets are stuffed or a fence canvas is attached.
Fence made of corrugated board
One of the most popular materials for the construction of a country fence is corrugated board, which has many advantages. Installing a fence of this type in the country provides significant time savings, because the work is done quickly enough. You just need to determine the fence line along the perimeter of the site, put drains and poles, which should be sheathed with corrugated board.
Advantages of corrugated board
Such a fence does not provide a third party with the opportunity to observe what is happening on a piece of land, unlike a fence made of lattice or chain-link. Profiled sheeting reflects sound well and is a durable material, and also does not require the involvement of professionals, you just need to buy some instrument.
For the fence, it is recommended to choose a corrugated board with a corrugation height of no more than 21 millimeters. It is not profitable to buy a material with a higher height, since it is intended for roofing and has greater rigidity to withstand the seasonal mass of snow and rain.
Installation of a fence made of corrugated board
Before building a fence made of corrugated board, it is worthwhile to calculate the perimeter of the structure. You need to outline the position of the country fence and determine the location of the wicket and gates, as well as determine the locations of the pillars for support with an installation step of close to 3 meters. Then you need to determine what will be the height of the fence around the perimeter, as well as the height of the wicket and gate. The length and number of corrugated sheets depends on these parameters.
Now install the support pillars, which can be metal pipes that have a diameter of at least 80 millimeters. The side of the pillar that is directed upward must be welded so that moisture does not get into the inside of the pipe.
To place the pillars, you should dig holes close to 1-1.5 meters deep and 1.5 meters wide. Make the foundation using the technology described above. When it hardens, you can start installing the transverse steel profile, on which the corrugated board should be attached.
Take a profiled pipe as a profile, which has a cross section of 40 by 25 millimeters. Determine the number of pipes based on the height of the fence. If the height of the fence is up to 1.7 meters, then two rows of pipes are enough, which are fixed in parallel and installed at a distance of 30-40 centimeters. If the height of the fence is 1.7 - 2 meters, then you need to install the pipes in three rows.
Fasten the profile and support posts using electric welding. Then cover them with a primer to protect them from corrosion. At the final stage, sheets of corrugated board should be fixed on the frame. This material is usually fastened with self-tapping screws at a distance of 50 centimeters. It is customary to overlap adjacent sheets.
When you install a corrugated board fence with your own hands in the country, do not forget to wear gloves, because you can get hurt on the sharp edges of the material. If during installation there are scratches on the corrugated board, it is worth using cans of paint to eliminate them. To achieve a better aesthetic appearance, you can close the support pillars with brick or stone cladding, on this the installation of corrugated fences can be considered complete.
Chain-link fence
As a cladding for fences of a summer cottage, the mesh-netting remains out of competition in its popularity, because it meets all the requirements of reliability, light transmission and service life.
Types of mesh-netting
Today the following types of metal mesh are offered on the market: not galvanized, galvanized and plastic-coated mesh-netting. The first solution immediately disappears, because the time of its useful operation is minimal due to the lack of a protective coating against corrosion.
The mesh-netting, which is faced with PVC, is primarily intended for building fences in warm climatic zones and on the coast of the seas, as plastic provides good protection from atmospheric moisture, but does not withstand seasonal changes in low and high temperatures. The optimal solution the galvanized mesh remains.
Installation of a mesh-netting
Arrangement of a fence made of a chain-link mesh begins with marking the position of the pillars - intermediate and tension. The first columns are usually installed in 3 meter increments, the second - after 9 meters. Use metal profiled racks as pillars, pipes that have a diameter of 60 millimeters and corners of 50 millimeters are suitable.
Use a drill to drill holes up to 40 centimeters deep under the intermediate pillars in the soil; a 60 centimeters deep hole is needed for the tension posts. On clay and loam, concreting the pillars is meaningless, because heaving soil is able to push the base out of the concrete along with the pillar in cold weather. If the soil is light loam or sandstone, then the bases of the pillars can be concreted.
After installing the tension pillars in place in the corners of the future fencing, connect them to the adjacent pillars with supports from the metal corner with bolts or welding. To fasten the netting, there are enough pillars that are exposed at a 3-meter distance. In this case, the canvas will not sag.
However, such a fence is not reliable, because it is easy to lift the lower part of the sheathing and get into the fenced summer cottage area. Therefore, wire rod with a diameter of 3 millimeters is needed, which should be passed through the mesh cells at three horizontal levels. To pull the wire rod between the posts, drill three through holes in each of them.
Proceed with securing the net to the posts - place its roll vertically near the support post and make sure that the folded ends of the stitches are on the top of the roll. Hook the top line of the net to the top of the post and move to the next post, gradually unwinding the roll. Having passed the wire rod through the netting between adjacent posts, insert its ends into the prepared holes, pulling the wire and securing it to the posts with tension bolts.
Slab fence
A slab is inherently waste on any sawmill, which is like shavings with wood chips. As a result, we can note the low cost per cubic meter of slab. If you are interested in what kind of fence to put in the country, so that it emphasizes your best frame house, select the railing from the slab. On the one hand, this material is outwardly unprepossessing, but, nevertheless, it retains all the attractiveness of a tree in itself, which allows you to create at the same time a cheap and pretty country fence.
Preparatory work
It is customary to start work on the creation of the fence with debarking the slab - if you leave the bark, then the structure will be hit by a bark beetle and collapse soon. Removing the bark is not an easy task and requires the use of a special tool - a flat shovel with a sharp blade, a small carpenter's hatchet and a scraper. Having removed the bark from the slab, you need to sand its surface and cover it with several layers of antiseptic.
Support posts for slab fencing can be wooden or metal. A pipe that has a diameter of 76 millimeters and a wall thickness of 3.5 millimeters, with welded plates, which serve to fasten horizontal wooden purlins, is suitable for metal racks.
Wooden fence posts are made of oak, pine or larch - trunk diameter 20 centimeters, length 2.3 meters. The side of the pillars that will be placed in the ground is covered in several layers with Kuzbass varnish or hot resin. If you plan to carry out runs from a slab, then make a distance of 2-2.5 meters between the fence supports.
Sheathing the fence with a croaker
On loamy soil, metal and wooden pillars are simply driven into the ground without additional creation of reinforcement measures; in the places of their installation, it is only necessary to drill holes with a drill and hammer the pillars with a sledgehammer.
Chernozem and sandy soils require significant effort - for each pillar you need to dig a hole 60 centimeters deep, 2 times wider than the pillar. Then put 10 centimeters of gravel on the bottom of the pit, tamp it, put a post in its center, fill in gravel around the perimeter, control the vertical position of the post with a building level and a plumb line, and tamp the gravel tightly after placing the post.
The sheathing of the fence with a slab is performed vertically or horizontally. In the first case, you need to attach a beam of 50 by 30 millimeters to the support posts on both sides and overlap the slab on self-tapping screws or nails - you will not be able to fit the slabs end-to-end.
For vertical sheathing of a summer cottage fence, the slab must be cut along, to the girders, fix the sawn slab with the convex side inward, leaving a gap of 40-50 millimeters between it, then close them with a slab, which is placed outward with the convex side. For longer useful operation, the finished slab fence should be painted or varnished, the ends of the pillars should be closed with metal or plastic cones - as a country fence, it will last about 10 years.
Wattle as a country fence
Compared to other fences, the material for wattle fence requires almost no costs - it is cheaper just to do without a fence altogether. However, such a fence will last no more than 3-4 years and will only provide the owners with a decorative fence, which is unlikely to be able to withstand burglary.
Procurement of material
The structure of the wattle fence is no different from the device of fences of another type - you need to make a foundation, you will need metal and wooden supports, and flexible rods for sheathing. Wooden racks are made of pine, and hazel and willow branches are best suited for sheathing, in the absence of which it is worth using aspen, alder or birch branches.
It is customary to harvest rods for lining the wattle fence in early spring or late autumn. To get started, watch a video about fences for a summer residence. Choose straight and straight rods that have a thickness at the cut from the trunk of at least 30 millimeters and a length of 1.5 meters. Before harvesting, you need to check the branches of a bush or tree for a break by cutting off one twig and examining its cut.
If the core of the branch is large and has a reddish-brown tint, such rods are not suitable for sheathing, because they will break during the laying process. Therefore, you need to move on to the next tree and evaluate the core of the branches cut from it. The core should be barely visible. Having found material that is suitable for creating wattle, cut off branches of the desired diameter and length that are free of damage, knots and growths.
Dry the cut rods for a couple of hours, then remove the bark from them, pre-soaking them in water. To soak, tie the twigs into a bundle with a string and submerge them in the water, placing the weight on top. The soaking period is 7-14 days. Use a special tool to debark the rods. After removing the bark, sort the rods by length and thickness, then you can start arranging the fence.
Building a wattle fence in the country
Typically, the distance between the supports is 350 millimeters or more. If you plan to use metal racks for this, then feel free to hammer them in the previously marked places. If the supports are wooden, then you should prepare the stakes themselves: sharpen the lower part of the stakes, which are intended for the supports of the wattle fence, coat with heated resin on a segment that slightly exceeds the depth to which the supports will be driven into the ground.
A rubber or wooden mallet is required to drive in wooden supports and place the sheathing rods between them, because a metal hammer is capable of breaking wood. Supports that are placed along the edges of the wattle fence must be placed at a not too great distance from the posts that are located nearby.
Soak the rods for a few days before weaving, they will become more flexible. To attach the branches, prepare annealed wire and copper. It is customary to weave from the bottom up - press right hand the butt of the first rod to the extreme post of the support, circle the rod along the second post with your left hand and bring it behind the third.
Bring the next twig behind the first support with its tip, hold it with your right hand, circle the second stand with your left hand and bring it to the third. The alternation of tops and butts will reduce the presence of gaps between the branches and avoid the slope of the twigs that are already intertwined to one side of the wattle fence.
So that when weaving the rods are tighter to each other, they are knocked down with a mallet. Fix the ends of the rods to the posts using annealed wire. To protect the ends of the support from getting wet in the rain, equip them with galvanized caps or put clay pots on them.
Decorating a blank fence
Often, the question arises before the owners of private houses and summer residents - how to decorate a fence for a summer residence. Indeed, looking at a flat plane of a large area near your country house is not very interesting. Sometimes our fences are very long, and such blank walls do not decorate the space.
The first thing that comes to mind is closing a blind fence with climbing plants or shrubs, using vertical gardening techniques. Choose actinidia, girlish grapes, or aromatic hops for this purpose. You can also plant annuals that twist along wires or strings that are pre-stretched vertically.
Painting and painting is another option for decorating a fence. You can also hang pots with ampelous plants - petunias and pelargoniums on a blank fence. These unpretentious plants can bloom almost all summer! Deaf fences will also serve as a good service in the construction of a gazebo, because you already have one wall, you need two more supports, then you can start building the roof.
Along the fence of the summer cottage, you can make several flower beds, raised above the ground. This technique can visually break a long fence into several parts, which will no longer look so monotonous. Plant tall flowers and shrubs with vibrant foliage in raised flower beds. If you prefer ephedra, then remember that they are sensitive to the bright spring sun.
The construction of the fence allows the owner and his family to hide from prying eyes, as well as to protect their summer cottage. Near a residential building, which looks beautiful, any fence will look good, and if you make the building yourself, it's even better. Modern technologies help in the aesthetic possibility of building a fence, which can be made from almost any durable material - brick, corrugated board, mesh, plants. The fence can be low, high, medium, just the way you see it in your summer cottage.
Fencing garden plot does not apply to complex structures, therefore, the simplest fence in the country can be made with your own hands. The choice of material for it depends only on the funds allocated for this purpose and personal preferences.
Basic requirements for fencing a garden plot
The fence in the country performs several functions at once.... When separating the site from the street or road, it must provide reliable protection from prying eyes and intrusions from the outside. If the fence separates your territory from the neighbor's, then it is not necessary to make it capital - you just need to mark the border.
According to SNiP, the height of the fence separating the site and the street is up to 2 m... It can be made solid, but only if it was allowed by the decision of the meeting of gardeners.
You have no right to shade the area of your neighbors - a high fence should only be transparent, mesh or lattice.
A solid fence between sections is allowed to be erected only in the following cases:
- if its height does not exceed 0.75 m
- you have received written consent from your neighbors
How to choose a fence. Types of fences
There are many types of fences. You can choose any of them:
- wooden picket fence: inexpensive fence that can last 7-10 years; decorated with cuts along the entire length of the planks or only along the top, covered with paint or stain for valuable wood species, it looks quite solid and soundly
- fence - "wicker" of boards small thickness up to 20-25 mm
- metal picket fence: painted in different colors, from a distance we can hardly distinguish it from wood, but its service life is longer
- thick-walled polycarbonate: its translucent sheets transmit light well, such structures will be quite appropriate even in the vicinity of the beds
- forged or welded metal: more expensive massive and very durable structure; its aesthetic properties are also high; if you know how to work with welding, you can create a real work of art on your site
- brick or concrete on a strip foundation
- pole with spans from a chain-link mesh
- braided from young flexible willow branches, hazel (considered the most suitable material for weaving), aspen, willow, etc.; you can also imitate the wattle with plastic PVC rods
- in the form of a green fence: it looks very decorative, but it will take some time to grow it.
Pole installation options
Fence support mounting options
Metal support posts are immersed in the ground in several ways:
- by driving into the ground
- screwing into the ground: for this, screw metal piles are used, one end of which looks like large screws
- by backing up: filling the gaps between the ground and the pillar with large rubble or stones
- concreting: it can be either full or partial, that is, part of the pile is driven into the ground, and its upper part is concreted.
Pits for backfilling or concreting are best prepared with a drill. In this case, the soil will crumble less, and the fence will be much stronger. It will be easier to drive piles into the ground if sharp metal stakes are pre-welded to their ends.
If the site is in a swampy area, and moisture has appeared at the bottom of the pit, put a bag of thick polyethylene into it (such bags are used for large debris). Pour the solution into it.
Does a fence need a foundation?
When building lightweight structures - fences made of picket fences, polycarbonate or mesh-netting - it is enough to use strong metal or wooden supports of sufficient thickness. They can be further strengthened by pouring concrete.
But heavy brick, forged or concrete structures require the obligatory construction of a strip foundation. Otherwise, in the event of temperature extremes or in the process of washing out with wastewater, significant subsidence of the heavy fence is possible. The foundation for the fence can be:
- shallow tape: metal supports installed in it simultaneously with pouring;
- strip-and-columnar: in this case, not only the foundation itself is concreted, but also the columnar supports; ideal for heavy structures, capable of withstanding even heavy loads;
- columnar: only pits with supporting pillars installed in them are poured with concrete.
Light, but "sailing" fencing, for example, made of corrugated board, for protection from the wind, it is better to install on a strip foundation of shallow depth.
Shallow tape foundation
Its depth depends on the weight of the structure. For a fence from welded metal the depth of the foundation is 80-100 cm. Lighter fences can be equipped on a foundation with a depth of only 50-60 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the sand-crushed stone cushion - it is 15-20 cm.
Strip foundation device
- Initially, a trench with a width of 30-100 cm is being prepared (this parameter depends on the type of fence) of the required depth.
- A sand and gravel mixture is poured onto its bottom, which is spilled with water and carefully compacted.
- After installing the formwork in the trench, reinforcement is laid in it. It should not be too close to the edges of the pit - it is necessary to retreat 10 cm from the walls.The amount of indentation from the bottom of the trench is about 7 cm.
- Metal supports are placed in the trench at a distance of 2-2.5 m.
- To prepare the solution, cement with a strength of M200 and higher is used.
- To remove air bubbles in concrete, it must be pierced with a shovel.
- After pouring the sand-concrete mixture with the addition of crushed stone, the foundation must stand for at least a month. It is not recommended to start work earlier than this period in order to avoid loss of depravity.
The proportions of the mortar for the foundation depend on the grade of concrete. When using concrete M200 - 1: 2.5: 4.2. We give the proportions by volume of materials cement / sand / crushed stone. Please note that in some sources proportions may be given by weight. When using concrete M300, the proportions by volume will be different - 1.0: 1.7: 3.2.
Column foundation
Such a base is able to withstand the weight of not too heavy structures. It takes much less cement mortar for it, and it takes a minimum of time to create it - it is enough to prepare the required number of holes, install supports in them and fill the holes with concrete.
- Pits up to 1.5 m deep are best prepared with a garden drill. In this case, the earth around it will crumble less, and the structure will turn out to be more stable.
- At the bottom of each of the pits, a cushion of gravel or crushed stone of small thickness is poured - up to 20 cm.
- A support is inserted into the hole prepared in the ground and leveled using a plumb line.
The space around the supports is filled with cement mortar. Ready-made concrete blocks, brick or stone can also serve as supports.
Heavy clay soil is difficult to drill. To make the process easier, pour water into shallow holes for a couple of hours. Drilling will become much easier.
Wooden picket fence
A fence is called strips of the same width, attached to transverse guides (lags or veins). In recent years, it has been made not only from wood, but also from metal. So, we will tell you how to make a fence in the country from a picket fence with your own hands.
Installation of supports
Before installing any type of fencing, the site is completely cleaned of turf and leveled. The roots of shrubs and trees are removed - as they germinate, they can damage the structure.
In the places where the supports are located, stakes are hammered. It is more convenient to make the distance between them equal to the length of the veins. It is not necessary to do it more than 3 m - with a large distance between the supports, the structure will turn out to be fragile.
- In the place of hammered pegs in the ground, pits up to 1.0-1.3 m deep are prepared.
- Gravel or sand is laid at the bottom of each pit. Layer thickness - 20 cm. Before compaction, sand is spilled with water for better compaction.
- To make the structure last longer, it is better to pre-coat the tree with an antiseptic. The part of the supports that will be dug into the ground is covered with bitumen or burned over a fire. You can also additionally wrap their lower part with tar paper.
- If not wood, but metal pipes are used as supports, rust is completely removed from them with a metal brush, and then they are covered with a primer or frost-resistant paint.
- To avoid corrosion, hollow metal pipes are closed at the top with plugs so that rain or snow does not enter them.
- After installing the supports in the prepared pits, their location is verified with a plumb line.
- The space between the beams and the ground is filled with concrete.
- The rest of the work is carried out a week after the concrete has hardened sufficiently.
It is not strictly regulated and can be anything. A solid (deaf) fence of tightly adjoining strips is a good protection from the piercing wind and prying eyes. However, such a fence will not let in sunlight, which is bad for plants.
Scheme distance between pickets
With a sparse fence, the average distance between the pickets is equal to half the width of the plank. A minimum gap of 20 mm can be left between the pickets. Combined filling is also used - the spans of the fence separating the street and the site are made solid. At the borders with neighboring areas, complete shading is prohibited, so the fence is made sparse here.
Fastening the picket
Installation of a picket fence on wooden supports
The standard dimensions of the picket fence are 150x2x5 cm. However, strips of other sizes are also used. The most resistant to decay are products made from larch, spruce or pine or aspen.
- When making a decorative picket fence, cuts are prepared in it. The pattern can be any - with a rounded or pointed top cut. The cuts can also be located on the lateral sides of the planks.
- The next stage is the treatment of wood with an antiseptic (you can take the alkyd Aquatex Grunt, KSD or any other drug with bioprotection). Before starting installation, the tree is thoroughly dried.
- Veins (logs) made of wood or metal pipes are attached to the supports using metal corners and self-tapping screws. Short veins are connected to each other using special fasteners - lag connectors in the form of a U-shaped plate.
- The lower vein is fixed at a distance of 20 cm from the ground, the upper one - 20 cm below the upper part of the support pillar.
- Picket fences can be positioned on the same level, or, by adjusting their length, mounted in the form of a wave. Attach them to self-tapping screws.
The fence is painted or stained after the installation is completed.
Fence in uneven terrain
If the height differences on the site are significant, and it is unrealistic to level them, ideal option in this case, it is a concrete plinth filled with terraces. Each of the spans can also be decorated with "steps", when each of them is attached to the supports just below the previous one. In this way, even large slopes can be compensated for.
Sometimes they use a method in which the top of the fence has a single level, and the bottom is mounted from pickets of different heights. But such fences look less aesthetically pleasing.
Metal picket fence
More modern version picket fences are structures in which the tree is replaced by more durable and wear-resistant metal strips. Service life - up to 30 years.
Metal strips for a fence are often called a euro bar.
Their installation is quite simple and in many ways similar to the installation of a classic wooden fence.
Let's consider in stages how to make a fence in the country from a metal picket fence:
- First, as usual, the support pillars are mounted. The distance between them is 2.5 m.
- Due to the small gaps between the pickets, the fence will suffer less from wind and wind, so the requirements for the support posts are less stringent. They use metal pipes. It is desirable to choose their cross-section equal to 60x60 mm. Wall thickness 2-4 mm.
- Metal pipes, as described in the previous paragraph, are concreted into the ground, be sure to check their vertical position using a level. Optimal depth wells for such supports - 1.1-1.5 m.
- The metal picket fence goes well with concrete or brick supports. In this case, the structure will not only look presentable, but will also last longer. You can arrange the planks both horizontally and vertically (see photo).
- For lag crossbars, it is necessary to purchase thin pipes 40x20 mm. They can be welded to the supports or screwed with self-tapping screws. For one log, you will need 4 self-tapping screws for metal (a pair on both sides).
- When attaching the lag from the top and bottom of the supports, it is necessary to retreat 50 cm.The distance from the bottom is slightly less and is 30 cm.
- Metal veins are attached to concrete or brick posts using special brackets and dowels.
- The picket fence is attached to the rungs with 4 self-tapping screws (two in each lag) also on the brackets. The distance between the metal strips is 2-10 cm. The optimal length of the picket fences is 1.8 m. Although the industry also produces 1.5- and 2-meter strips.
- To create a completely blind fencing, the euro shtaketnik is attached on both sides with a step of 8 cm, alternating them through one. With an average width metal strips 11.8 the fence turns out to be completely solid.
Such a fence is solid, so it can only be used to enclose a garden plot from the side of the road. It is inexpensive, but it looks quite presentable.
One of the options for fencing made of corrugated board
Plus, the corrugated board has a considerable service life - up to 20-30 years. Manufacturers claim that when coated with polyester, this period is even longer and is 50 years.
We will describe how to make a fence at a summer cottage from corrugated board:
- The supports for it must be strong enough: the resistance to wind load in solid metal sheets is insufficient. Usually, standard pipes 40x40x2 mm are used, which are deepened into the ground by 30-40% of their length.
- You can also buy ready-made metal supports with "heels" welded on the bottom. Above, special metal plates with holes for fixing the lag are welded. On the top, metal supports are equipped with plugs to protect against moisture.
- More durable concrete and brick pillars.
- The height of the fence depends on the width or length of the sheet (sheets can also be fixed in length).
- As a lag, it is better to use square pipes 40x20x20 mm. Metal corners are less durable and cannot provide sufficient resistance to wind load.
- Too thin corrugated board should not be used - it has a high windage, and the sheets will bend over time. The optimum thickness is 0.45 mm.
- The corrugated board is fixed in such a way that the distance between the sheets is equal to 1.5-2 sections. To do this, use metal brackets with holes for hardware (screws, bolts or screws) or welding.
- If the length of the fence does not exceed 2 m, two logs at the top and bottom are sufficient for fastening. Taller structures should be reinforced with a third lath running in the middle.
- On top of the fence, you can strengthen a U-shaped bar with bent (folded) edges. It not only protects against accidental cuts, but also protects the metal from moisture and corrosion.
In places where the corrugated board comes into contact with the ground, corrosion will develop rapidly. Therefore, it is better to put such fences on the foundation. It is advisable to provide a concrete support even with an uneven landscape of the site. In this case, the plinth can be designed in the form of neat even ledges.
You will not need to deeply bury the foundation for the fence - 30-40 cm is enough. Its width is selected depending on the size of the support posts and the type of fence. When preparing the pit, it is necessary to make an allowance of 10-15 cm to the height of the sand and gravel cushion, which will help protect against moisture and freezing.
Polycarbonate fence
Unlike corrugated fences, cellular polycarbonate is capable of absorbing noise and dampening sounds. On an area with a fence made of this material, you will be guaranteed a quiet and peaceful environment.
Translucent polycarbonate is also good because it is capable of transmitting light, and a fence made of it will not shade plants
With the help of it, you can completely hide the territory of the garden area from prying eyes - thanks to the honeycomb structure, it combines the advantages of translucent and deaf materials. Polycarbonate is light enough, easy to cut, and with the help of it you can erect buildings of the most unusual shape. It looks great in combination with metal forged elements.
Polycarbonate fence in stages
If thin-walled polycarbonate is used in the construction of greenhouses, then for the construction of the fence it is necessary to purchase sheets of the maximum thickness - they are usually used in the construction of sheds or roofs of pavilions.
So, here's how to build a polycarbonate fence:
- Profiled pipes are used as supports. The recommended diameter is at least 60x60 mm. We have already described the methods of their installation above.
- It is better to attach polycarbonate sheets to transverse veins, as is the case with profiled metal sheets, and weld metal frames for them and fix sheets on them around the entire perimeter.
- If the height of the fence exceeds 1.5 m, polycarbonate sheets are additionally fixed in the center of the canvas.
- When constructing greenhouses, the ribs-lintels (channels) formed by the honeycomb structure of polycarbonate are allowed to be placed only vertically - so that moisture cannot get into them. When building fences and fixing polycarbonate on metal frames, it is allowed to place them horizontally. In this case, vertical struts are additionally attached to strengthen the structure.
- To cut polycarbonate, use a circular saw with medium-sized teeth or a jigsaw.
- Before fixing the sheets in it with a drill for metal or wood, holes are pre-drilled for self-tapping screws with a pitch of 30-40 mm. Their diameter should be 2-3 mm larger than the size of the fastener. Indeed, in the process of temperature drops, the material is able to change its size. If the fasteners adhere too tightly to the sheet, a crack may appear near the hole. For the same reason, it is necessary to leave small gaps between the sheets and other structural elements.
- To avoid cracking of the material, the holes are placed at a distance of 4 cm from the edge.
In order to avoid moisture ingress, plugs in the shape of the letter "P" are put on the ends of each sheet.
Polycarbonate sheets are always covered on top protective film... In order not to damage or scratch the material, it is allowed to remove it after the end of installation.
One of the most inexpensive fences for a summer residence or a private house is from corrugated board. Its design is simple - dug-in pillars, to which transverse lags are attached. A profiled sheet is attached to this lattice with screws or rivets. Everything is really simple, especially if you know how to use welding machine... Although there is a technology without welding - on bolts or on wooden beams. In any case, you can build a fence made of corrugated board with your own hands. You can do all the work alone, if necessary, but when installing sheets, it is more convenient with an assistant.
Metal post construction
The simplest manufacture is a fence with metal pillars dug into the ground. You can use pipes of round or square section, but it is more convenient to work with square - profiled.
The length of the pillars is taken depending on the desired height of the fence, plus from 1 to 1.5 meters is added for deepening into the ground. It is necessary to bury in the ground below the depth of soil freezing. For each region, the soil freezes to a different depth, but in Middle lane In Russia, this is about 1.2 m. When determining the depth to which you bury the pipes, it is better to play it safe and make the holes deeper. Otherwise, the forces of winter heaving of the rack will simply be pushed out, and your fence will fall down (see photo).
For pillars, a profiled pipe with a cross section of 60 * 60 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm is usually taken. The distance between the posts is from 2 to 3 meters. The thicker the profiled sheet, the less often the posts can be placed. If the soil is hard to dig, it makes sense to make the distances longer, otherwise you can save on the purchase of metal - the thinner, the cheaper and the difference in price is significant.
Lags for a fence from a profiled sheet are made from a profile pipe of 40 * 20 or 30 * 20 mm. The second option is wooden blocks 70 * 40 or so. When using wood, a significant amount is saved, but the wood disappears faster, and besides, it jars from moisture. Most likely in a few years you will have to change the lags, and they will already be metal. But as an economy option, it will go for several years.
When making a fence from corrugated board with your own hands with wooden logs, do not forget to carefully treat the wood with an antibacterial compound (for example, Senezh Ultra). It is better to do this in the bathroom - immerse the bars for 20 minutes in the solution completely. This way they will last longer.
The number of lags depends on the height of the fence. Up to 2 meters - two are enough, from 2.2 to 3.0 meters you need 3 guides, even higher - 4.
Methods for attaching the lag to the pillars
Metal logs are welded either between the posts or in the front. The first method is more laborious, and more waste is obtained: you have to cut the pipes into pieces. But with such an arrangement, the lag structure turns out to be more rigid: each pillar serves as a support for the sheet and it "walks" less, if desired, you can put a couple of additional fasteners along it.
If you weld pipes in front of the post (from the side of the street), there is less work, but you still have to cut and there will be waste: it is necessary that the welded seam of the two sections falls on the post. Unless you guess the distance so that they lie flat. Then you purchase the materials in advance, and then calculate the step of installing the pillars.
To fasten wooden bars, holders are welded in front or on the sides - metal corners or U-shaped guides. Holes are then drilled in them and fastened with bolts or self-tapping screws.
There is an option to assemble a fence from corrugated board without welding. For this there is a special fastening element called the X-bracket. This is a cross-shaped plate with curved edges, which is attached to self-tapping screws.
Decking for fences
For fences, a profiled sheet with marking C is used - for fences and walls. There are also H and NS, but they are not suitable for fences - these are more roofing materials. A and R markings are rare, A profiles can be used for fences.
In the marking, after the letter, there is a number - from 8 to 35. It indicates the height of the rib in millimeters. So C8 means that the profiled sheet is intended for a fence, and the wave height is 8 mm. The higher the wave height, the more rigid the surface will be. In strong winds, take at least C10, or even C20.
Sheet thickness - from 0.4 to 0.8 mm. The most optimal option is a thickness of 0.45 mm or 0.5 mm. They are suitable for fences up to 2.5 m in height. If you need a higher one, take at least 0.6 mm.
The height of the leaf is usually in the region of 2 meters, you can find 2.5 m. The width can be very different - from 40 cm to 12 meters. Different factories produce corrugated board of different format.
Decking can be galvanized or painted (painted 15-25% more expensive than galvanized ones). Two types of paint are applied: powder and polymer coating. Powder coating is more durable but also more expensive.
There are sheets painted on one side - on the other there is galvanized, coated with primer gray, there is - with two. Double-sided coating is naturally more expensive than one-sided painting, but the look is better, and the service life is longer.
Support pipes and fence logs are usually primed, then painted. And somehow it happened that they were painted with dark paint. After attaching to them a profiled sheet painted on one side, a clearly visible "skeleton" on a light gray background is obtained. In a small area, this can be critical. Pay attention, and when building a fence made of corrugated board with your own hands, paint the supporting frame in a light gray color. The result will please you: it looks much better from the yard.
How to attach a profiled sheet to the frame
The sheet is fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets. Self-tapping screws for the profiled sheet are galvanized, there are painted. Pick them up to match the color of the fence. Tighten with a screwdriver using a nozzle.
The installation step depends on the wavelength and the height of the fence. The higher the fence, the more often you need to install fasteners. It holds well, if fastened through a wave to increase strength, with two lags it can be fastened in a checkerboard pattern, and not one above the other.
When installing, it is important to set the first sheet vertically. Then all the rest will be installed without problems. When stacking sheets, the next one goes to the one already set on 1 wave. Attached to the bottom of the wave. The self-tapping screw must be installed strictly perpendicularly. Then the hole is closed with a washer and deposits will not cause the paint to peel off.
For information on how one can attach a professional sheet to a fence, watch the video.
DIY fence made of corrugated board: photo report
A fence was built from neighbors and a frontal one. The total length is 50 meters, the height is 2.5 m. On the front one is used a brown profiled sheet, on the border - galvanized, thickness 0.5 mm, grade C8.
In addition, the following materials were sent:
- on the posts a profiled pipe 60 * 60 mm, wall thickness 2 mm, pipes 3 m long;
- 80 * 80 mm with a wall of 3 mm were placed on the pillars of gates and wickets;
- lags 30 * 30 mm;
- gate and wicket frame 40 * 40 mm;
A ready-made fence made of corrugated board with his own hands was built by one person
The fence is installed on metal pillars, between which the basement is then poured. It is necessary for the owners, since it is planned to set up a flower garden in front of the fence (you can see the fence made under it). It is also needed so that water does not flood the yard during heavy downpours. Metal sheets are not attached immediately from the ground, but retreating a little. This gap is closed by a die cut - a tape that remains in some industries. This is done on purpose so as not to block the air supply, so that the earth dries out faster.
Metal preparation
The first stage is the preparation of the pipes. The pipe comes from the warehouse rusty, so that it will serve for a long time, you have to clean it off, then treat it with "Anti-rust" and then paint. It is more convenient to first prepare all the pipes, prime and paint, then just start installation. The rust was cleaned off with a metal brush mounted on a grinder.
The pipes in the warehouse were only 6 meters long. Since the height of the fence is 2.5 meters, you need to bury another 1.3 meters, the total length of the post should be 3.8 meters. To save money, they cut it in half into 3-meter pieces, and the missing piece was supplemented with various scrap metal available on the farm: trimming corners, fittings, pieces of different pipes. Then everything was cleaned, primed and painted.
Installation of pillars
The first were two corner posts. The holes were drilled with a store-bought drill. The soil is normal, it took about 20 minutes for one hole 1.3 meters deep.
The first pillar was placed horizontally and so that it rose to a height of 2.5 meters above the ground. To set the second one, it was necessary to recapture the height. Used a water level. It must be poured so that there are no bubbles - from a bucket, not from the tap, otherwise it will lie.
They set up the second post along the broken mark (they put it on the bar, which was placed next to the hole) and concreted. When the cement seized, a string was pulled between the posts, along which all the others were aligned.
The filling technology was standard: a double folded roofing material was installed in the hole. A pipe was placed inside, poured with concrete (M250) and placed vertically. The level was controlled with a plumb line. Correctly positioning the pillars is very important, otherwise the entire fence will skew.
In the process of work, it turned out several times that the concrete was poured not inside the rolled roofing material, but between it and the walls of the pit. Raking it out of there is a small pleasure, because the protruding part was cut into petals, nailed to the ground with large nails. Problem solved.
After the concrete had set, a portable formwork was made from boards covered with thick film... With their help, the basement was poured. To make it stronger, reinforcement rods are welded to the pillars on both sides along the bottom. Formwork was placed around them.
Installation of jumpers
The cleaned, primed and painted crossbeam pipes were cut and welded. Cooked between the pillars. They are also tedious to put in a level to make it easier to fix.
After the welding is over, all welds are cleaned with a wire brush, treated with "Anti-rust" and then painted.
Installation of a profiled sheet
Since the upper lintel runs along the very top of the fence, and it is welded exactly to the level, there were no problems with alignment and installation of the sheets. They were fastened first along the edges, then intermediate screws were installed. To make it easier to place them evenly, a thread was pulled between the extreme ones.
Smoothly installed fasteners are also beautiful
Then the gate was welded and attached. As a final touch, additional elements are installed on top - a U-shaped profile that covers the top of the fence and plugs on the pipes.
As you understand, there is nothing particularly difficult. It is important to set the pillars straight and weld the frame. This is the main task. A lot of time - about 60% is spent on preparing pipes - cleaning, priming, painting.
Fence made of profiled sheet with brick pillars
Of course, a fence with brick pillars looks more decorative. If you wish, you can do it, but it will take more time. There are two options:
- Make a full-fledged strip foundation. But it is long and expensive. On well-drained soils, you can make a shallow foundation, on heaving soils you will have to bury yourself below the depth of soil freezing. And although the tape will not be wide, there is a lot of work - to dig a trench for the entire length of the fence, put the formwork, knit reinforcement, pour it in and then finish it. Put brick pillars on top. Strong, reliable, but expensive.
- Make according to the scheme described above: bearing pillars with a base. Brick is laid around the pillars. This method is less expensive. About,
The whole technology is the same, only the reinforcement will be more rigid - two belts of two rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It will be necessary to install embedded elements in the pillars, to which the guides will be attached. They (mortgages) can be welded to the pipe, after it has been exposed and the mortar has set.
Photo of the design of fences from a professional sheet
Often, a profiled sheet is combined with forging, sometimes a frame is cooked from a profiled pipe, a profiled sheet is mounted in it and all this is decorated metal patterns- forged or welded. Another option to make the fence non-standard is to install the wave not vertically, but horizontally. Seemingly small change, but the view is different. Some ideas in the photo gallery below.