Previously, apartment dwellers were content with only taking a bath and shower. Residents of the private sector had the opportunity to build a bathhouse and steam to their heart's content. Now, a lot of opportunities have opened up for both. Many new types of baths have come into the life of the Russian citizen:
- furo;
- sanarium;
- hamam;
- sauna.
The last type of steam room is the most common. Such a room can be arranged even in a spacious apartment. The main thing is to comply with the norms and rules of thermal insulation for a sauna.
Distinctive features of sauna insulation
The sauna came to us from Finland. The presence of many lakes on the territory of the state and the proximity of the sea saturate the air with moisture. This eliminates the use of water vapor in large quantities. The humidity in a steam Finnish sauna ranges from 10 to 25%.
When insulating, it is not necessary to choose a material with low hygroscopicity. A small percentage of humidity will expand the list of materials used.
Also, low humidity affects the flooring technology. The Finnish version of the steam room lacks many communications. Therefore, the construction process is faster. The absence of drainage gutters makes it possible to set up a sauna even in an apartment.
The second distinguishing point is the high temperature, compared to other types of baths. The heating temperature ranges from 90 to 120°C. Moreover, in an ordinary Russian bath the heating does not exceed 50°C.
High temperatures increase the performance requirements for insulation materials. It should be:
- fireproof;
- not subject to combustion;
- free from harmful substances;
- without unpleasant odor.
The method of attaching the insulation also matters. Any plastic elements can melt due to heat. Heating metal parts may cause a fire. Not every adhesive composition able to withstand harsh indoor climate conditions.
Various requirements are imposed on insulation for:
- walls;
- gender;
- ceiling.
Choosing insulation for sauna walls
The choice of the type and thickness of insulation depends not only on the well-known:
- region of development;
- location on the ground;
- heating device.
The material of the walls plays an important role. After all, the thermal conductivity of brick masonry is higher than that of a similar wall made of aerated concrete. The most important thing to do is to take protection panel walls. In this case, you need to pay attention to the joints. They should be cleaned and resealed.
The calculation takes into account the thickness load-bearing structures. This is especially true for external walls. The thickness of the masonry affects the thickness of the insulation used.
The best, but space-consuming, sauna insulation is expanded clay insulation. Porous insulation has a thermal conductivity in the range of 0.07-0.18 W/m*K. The closer the fractions are adjacent to each other, the higher the conductivity.
Advantages of use:
- environmental friendliness. In essence, expanded clay is baked clay;
- fire safety;
- lack of fastening;
- low cost.
Flaws:
- the thickness of the expanded clay layer should be at least 20 cm for external walls, and approximately 10 cm when insulating walls indoors;
- moisture absorption of the material is about 8 to 20% by weight of the material;
- When backfilling, a lot of dust is generated. Insulation work must be carried out in a respirator;
- It is difficult to get rid of moisture accumulated in the material. A vapor barrier device is required.
This type of heat loss protection is suitable for large rooms. If 6 people stay at the same time, an area of 4.5 m2 is sufficient. It is 2 m wide and 2.25 m long.
You can insulate walls using mineral wool. Only stone wool can be used for high-temperature rooms. Its fibers are not subject to combustion. The melting point of the material is 1200°C.
The high vapor permeability of the product requires the same from the wall material. Otherwise, moisture will condense on the surface of the fence. The solution to the problem would be a device with inside insulation of the vapor barrier layer.
The low thermal conductivity of the structure makes it possible to reduce the thickness of the insulation layer of the sauna walls. Foil mineral wool will be a special obstacle to heat.
Material with a reflective surface can retain up to 97% of heat, helping to reduce sauna heating costs. This efficiency will allow you to purchase a boiler with lower energy consumption. And this will affect the size of the device, giving steamers more free space.
When installing reflective insulation in front of it, a gap must be left on the inside. This can be easily done by securing the mat with wooden slats. A ventilation space of 1 cm is sufficient.
Insulating walls with polyurethane foam has become a new trend in construction. The material is:
- thermal insulation;
- moisture barrier;
- vapor-tight membrane
85% of cured foam consists of air. And he, as you know, is a bad conductor. Therefore, most of the heat remains inside the sauna.
The foam has excellent adhesion to any materials. Its use excludes extra costs for hardware.
Polyurethane foam coating can be used when arranging a Finnish bathhouse in a building with metal frame. Insulation will create a dense barrier around the studs to block heat. Additionally, the foam will protect the metal from corrosion. The racks will not be able to overheat, losing stability.
When arranging a room for a bathhouse, a wooden frame is used. The width of the racks is 100 mm. It is selected based on the thickness of the insulation. This value is sufficient for communication with a heated room.
Before insulating the sauna, the frame is treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Antiseptic wood has a specific greenish tint. You can purchase already processed lumber.
Floor insulation
The essence therapeutic effects saunas on the body - removal of toxins. Due to the high temperature, a person sweats. Harmful elements come out along with sweat. The room is not intended for water procedures, as is the case with a Russian bath.
Based on the purpose of this type of bath, we draw two conclusions:
- You can select floor insulation without fear of excessive exposure to moisture;
- Hot air rises. Therefore, floor insulation may not be heat-resistant.
There are two insulation technologies, depending on the base material.
If the floor is concrete
The concrete base is insulated with dense slabs or by installing lags. In the first option, products with a density of at least 35 kg/m3 are used.
It is better to use slabs with the letter C in the marking. It indicates protection from temperature influences.
Step-by-step installation:
- treatment concrete base antiseptics;
- laying slabs with tight joints. For insulation on the first floor, the thickness of the material must be at least 100 mm. Floors, when installing a sauna above heated rooms, are insulated with a layer of 50 mm;
- film waterproofing is installed on top of the slabs, extending onto the wall at least 100 mm;
- Reinforcement is laid on the waterproofing layer. A masonry mesh is suitable for its role;
- everything is filled with a 5-centimeter layer of concrete. If you still plan to carry out water procedures in the bathhouse, you need a slope. It is formed to the drain funnel by laying a leveling screed.
Wooden flooring is laid on top of the concrete. It can be solid or with distances between the boards.
When installing wooden logs, you can use low-density insulation. The log is laid on top edged board. The thickness of the board should be at least 20 mm.
The thickness of the bars for the logs is 50 mm. The height is selected according to the thickness of the insulation. The pitch between the beams is selected based on the size of the insulation. The beams are attached using self-tapping screws.
A PVC film is placed on top of the insulation. The edges are secured with overlap using tape. Foil is often used instead of film.
Materials for insulation are used:
- bulk;
- slab;
- mats;
- polyurethane foam.
Friable polystyrene foam is added to the concrete to create the screed and base. It facilitates the design, imparting insulating qualities.
Wooden floor
Paul in wooden house presented load-bearing beams. Insulation is located between them.
Before insulation, it is necessary to hem the floor from below. When the sauna is located on the upper floors, the filing is the ceiling of the lower room.
The following is used as filing on the first floor:
- waterproofing film;
- unedged board;
- plywood.
Dense hemming is used when the insulation weight is significant. If the insulation is arranged by surprise or its weight is minimal, then film is sufficient.
You can select a material from those not yet considered using Table 1.
Table 1
Insulating the sauna ceiling
The ceiling is the most moisture- and fire-hazardous area of the sauna. It is on the ceiling that the evaporated moisture condenses. Therefore, you need to apply the entire complex of protection:
- thermal insulation;
- vapor barrier;
- water protection;
- high-quality and safe finishing
The insulation material is stone wool. A water barrier is installed on the outside of the insulation. He can be:
- film;
- coating;
- pasting
Mineral wool is not attached to the ceiling surface. All its weight falls on the finishing. Fastening with glue will not withstand high temperatures.
A vapor barrier is installed on the inside of the insulation. It serves to retain steam indoors. This layer prevents the insulation from getting wet during the steam room operation.
The finishing is created from wooden lining. It is attached before laying the mineral wool. After that, insulation is inserted into the resulting boxes.
There are no lighting fixtures attached to the ceiling of the Finnish sauna. Therefore, laying wires in the thickness of the insulation is excluded.
Although high temperatures limit the range of materials, creating a comfortable steam room is possible. Knowing how to insulate a sauna from the inside, you can create an island of Finland even in an apartment.
To ensure that the bathhouse is strong and durable, and its use does not cause inconvenience or discomfort, when constructing a building, you should strictly adhere to the calculations made and follow the advice on choosing building mixtures and materials.
Baths and saunas – premises with high level humidity and a special microclimate, and the need to maintain a certain temperature in the steam room forces a responsible approach to the choice of heat-insulating material.
In addition, surfaces on which protective coatings are used have a number of advantages:
- fast and uniform heating of walls;
- slow cooling;
- retaining heat inside the steam room for a longer period of time;
- low flammability and reduced risk of fire;
- increasing the service life of the structure;
- preventing dampness and rotting;
- preventing the development of mold, mildew and other pathogenic microorganisms.
Without good thermal insulation made with high-quality materials, not a single bathhouse, sauna or steam room can fully fulfill its functions.
Thermal insulation methods and material selection
The thermal insulation materials used can be natural or artificial; they have different levels of heat transfer and the ability to retain and return heat back to the steam room. This indicator is characterized by a coefficient of resistance to heat transfer, depending on the thickness of the material and thermal conductivity.
Materials are used based on their properties and type of structure.
| Material type | Recommended application | Layer thickness |
|---|---|---|
| Wooden beams, brick, concrete. | On average, thermal insulation material is sprayed in a layer of 2 to 7 cm. |
| Surfaces made of brick, concrete, foam blocks and frame walls. | It is not recommended to install a layer thinner than 50 mm. |
| Walls made of concrete and its derivatives, bricks, frame buildings. | In the range from 50 to 150 mm. |
| Wooden buildings. | From 15 to 45 mm, depending on the size of the cracks and the condition of the logs in the log house. |
| Brick or block walls. | According to the thickness of the material. |
| Brick and frame buildings. | Not less than 20 mm. |
Thermal insulation can be internal, external and by spraying (both internal and external). The most popular method of carrying out work is internal, which includes sequential laying of layers of hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier materials.
Characteristics of natural insulating coatings
Natural materials are suitable for thermal insulation exclusively of wooden log houses. Previously, flax, moss and rope were used for these purposes; now these materials act as the main components of more modern and durable coatings, and the method of their use is called “inter-crown”.
| Material | Disadvantages of use | Features of application | Advantages of the material | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| The material is flammable and requires additional processing. | It is used as an inter-crown isolate - it is tightly packed into the target along the logs and joints. | Not affected by all types of moisture from sunlight. | From 6 rubles per linear meter. | |
Sheep wool sealing tape | It has a low fire safety class and can be toxic when exposed to strong heat. | Thermal insulating material is laid in strips between the rows of logs during the assembly of the log house. | Good thermal insulation properties, ability to partially regulate humidity levels. | From 4 rubles per meter. |
| The same as all natural materials. | It is located between two adjacent crowns, tightly plugging cracks and gaps. | Low cost. | From 900 rubles per pack of tow. |
Considering the installation features, inter-crown materials have a high consumption, and the installation process itself is long and labor-intensive.
Laying tape insulation for insulating a wooden frame
Natural insulating materials are used in external thermal insulation baths and free-standing saunas can be laid in several ways.
| Method | Description |
|---|---|
| The tape fits into the grooves between the logs strictly along its width. |
| The material is cut into sections with a width equal to twice the width of the groove and is placed tightly in it. |
| The heat-insulating material is cut into strips with the expectation that installation will be done with a slight bend at both edges. |
Laying the harness is the most difficult; its entire process can be divided into stages.
Important! The number of layers is determined independently and on average is 2-4, depending on the quality of the log, its processing and the climatic conditions of the region. Experts strongly advise that even with high-quality inter-crown thermal insulation, be sure to insulate the steam room and dressing room from the inside.
Prices for sealants for wooden houses
sealant for wooden house
Artificial and thermal insulation coatings
Industrially produced materials are more versatile and have many advantages over natural ones - they are not subject to physical deformation and are resistant to attacks by rodents and insects.
| Material | Disadvantages of use | Application area | Advantages of the material | Average cost per package/roll |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mineral wool (basalt, diabate, dolomite, slag, limestone). | When using mineral wool thermal insulation, it is important to pay attention to hydro- and vapor barrier. | Coverage is intended only for indoor installation, since it is susceptible to moisture, under the influence of which it can cake. | Wear resistance, lightness and ease of installation, durability, non-flammability, hydrophobicity. | From 400 to 1950 rubles per package. |
| Polymer insulation. | Low fire safety class - the material must be treated with a fire retardant compound or contain similar additives. | Most often, such coatings are used for external thermal insulation, because after some time they release toxic fumes into the atmosphere. | The coating is not afraid of moisture, temperature fluctuations, and has a high level of thermal protection. | From 700-1100 rubles per roll or standard sheet. |
| Thick materials are difficult to install and are subject to deformation. | Only suitable for interior work. | Maximum reduction of heat loss, reflection of UV energy from the walls and ceiling back into the steam room. | From 2000 rubles per roll. | |
| Sprayed polyurethane foam materials. | The coating is environmentally friendly, but requires a special installation for spraying. High cost. | Can be used on all surfaces, both internal and external. Easily and quickly sprayed without the need to install sheathing. | High thermal insulation properties, moisture resistance, fire safety, durability. The material has good adhesive ability, but the surface requires pre-treatment. | From 500 rubles per 1 sq.m. depending on the composition of the isolate. |
When selecting a heat-insulating coating, it is important to pay attention to the following indicators:
- tightness;
- low thermal conductivity - the lower the coefficient, the less heat loss;
- sufficient level of thermal protection;
- wear resistance;
- ability to provide an airtight coating;
- resistance to both chemical aggressors and physical influence;
- non-flammability;
- resistance to temperature fluctuations;
- non-toxic and safe for humans;
- moisture resistance;
- elasticity and resistance to deformation;
- resistance to weathering.
For better protection surfaces will be more effective combined synthetic materials:
Important! If the walls of the bathhouse are built of brick or blocks, then before starting work, all gaps and places where the slabs do not fit tightly must be sealed. Slag, expanded clay or sand mixture with the addition of sawdust, mixed with limestone. The wall is being worked on from the inside. If you are short on time, you can use hard mineral wool sheets.
Megafol prices
Insulation of floors in baths and saunas
The fields in baths and saunas are most often made of non-resinous wood. The whole process takes place in several stages.
Concrete floors are usually designed in shower areas. Thick sheets of foam plastic are suitable for its insulation - they are laid directly on the foundation before pouring concrete. To enhance the effect, you can add expanded clay, mineral wool or tow to the solution. The floor must be sloped for more convenient water drainage.
Important! When mixing a combined concrete mixture for pouring a shower floor, you need to thoroughly mix all the components of the composition.
Wall insulation
Laying thermal insulation materials on the walls is carried out immediately after laying the subfloor with the provided wooden floors or pouring a concrete screed.
- A layer of vapor and waterproofing materials is attached over the entire area of the walls. You can take plastic film as the most affordable and economical covering - it will protect the walls from condensation and prevent the formation of mold and mildew. It is allowed to put a layer of foil at least 1 mm thick under the polyethylene. The joints of both layers must be taped with foil tape or construction tape.
- On top of the waterproofing on all walls with beams with a section of 50x50 mm, vertical lathing will be made in increments of 50-60 cm. The board is attached to the walls with self-tapping screws.
- A layer of heat-insulating material is placed in the “cells” of the sheathing. Ideally, based on fiberglass or mineral wool and its derivatives. The thickness of the layer depends on the material used, but should not be less than 30 mm. When choosing, it is important to read the label carefully - the material for steam rooms is subject to higher requirements; it should not be fusible, toxic or flammable.
- A layer of heat-insulating material is covered with foil or a foil coating so that the sheathing bars are also covered.
- When finished, you should inspect the entire room again and, if necessary, seal the corners with foil tape.
- The last stage is the installation of the lining, which is positioned horizontally and attached to the sheathing beams.
Important! The insulation of the steam room must be carried out in compliance with all recommendations and include steam, hydro and thermal insulation; in other rooms of the bathhouse and sauna the vapor barrier layer can be neglected.
Prices for lining
Video - Cladding walls with clapboard
To insulate the roof and ceiling, the same materials are used as for the main work. But it should be remembered that it is under the ceiling that hot air is concentrated, so all coatings used must be non-flammable or treated with special compounds. It is advisable to choose mineral wool as a heat-insulating material and lay it in a layer at least 12-15 cm thick.
Work on insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse is carried out from the roof or attic, for a sauna - from inside the steam room in the reverse order.
The use of mineral wool insulation is mandatory only in the steam room area. In the dressing room and rest room, you can use cheaper materials - polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam.
Prices for expanded polystyrene
expanded polystyrene
Often, heat loss in a steam room occurs not only due to a poorly thought-out thermal insulation system, but also due to entrance doors. To prevent this from happening, adjust carefully door leaf and tighten the hinges, eliminating even the slightest sagging. Many masters recommend designing a threshold in the steam room of at least 12 centimeters - this will prevent cold air from getting inside.
Special attention should be paid to the “dressing room”; it should not only be functional and comfortable, but also insulated according to all the rules.
Video - How to insulate a bathhouse without harming your health
It’s a shame after building a bathhouse to find that the structure cools down quickly, and the heat is not the same. The reason can only be one thing - improper thermal insulation of the steam room. To ensure that insulating your sauna with your own hands does not become a disappointment, study the advice of experts!
Thermal insulation of a sauna - the principle of a thermos
Seventy percent of the heat in a bath or sauna is so-called radiant heat. That is, heating occurs not due to an increase in air temperature (or rather, not only due to it), but due to heat rays from the stove or heated stones. In the same way, you warm yourself by a fire - even at a distance you feel warmth, and this heat is not from heated air, but from the rays emanating from the fire itself. Once you put a barrier between the fire and you, you will stop feeling these rays.
Task at proper insulation– keep these rays inside the steam room, otherwise it will heat up for a long time and cool down quickly.
Imagine an ordinary thermos with tea. If hot liquid were inside a regular metal can, the heat would escape through the walls. But in a thermos, the rays are reflected from the foil, so the tea does not cool down so quickly. The same “thermos effect” must be created inside the bathhouse using heat-insulating materials. One of the most popular misconceptions is the belief that it is enough to line the walls with insulation and eurolining, and the job is done.
In fact, as we already understand, thermal insulation of a sauna and bathhouse is a much more complex process. However, not so much that everyone who wants to can’t do it. The second misconception, or rather, the desire for naturalness, leads people to insulate with materials that are prone to rotting - we are talking about insulation with moss. Moss at high humidity not only rots, but is also capable of infecting the tree with rot. True, there is an exception - red building moss. But it is also susceptible to a problem that no one thinks about at first - all kinds of bugs and birds can tear your insulation system into small pieces.
How to insulate - all about insulation materials
Basalt fiber is most often used to insulate baths and saunas. What makes these materials good is their durability, fire resistance and moisture resistance. In addition, they are not afraid of rotting. For convenience, manufacturers produce such insulation in the form of rolls, mats or slabs.
Baths are insulated and organic materials, such as wood concrete - these are blocks made from a mixture of sawdust and cement. Such blocks can be made independently and used even in those climatic zones, Where low temperatures. True, such insulation has a significant drawback - it is flammable. However, if you make the blocks yourself, you can add substances to the solution that make the wood fire-resistant. With the help of wood concrete, you can significantly save on the construction of a bathhouse, but it is still recommended to cover the steam room area with the same mineral wool - as they say, out of harm’s way.
Polymer-based materials - polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam - are well suited for dressing rooms and rest rooms. Again, fire resistance is not listed among their qualities, so it is better not to use them in steam rooms where there is a high chance of fire. In addition to insulation, you should also take care of vapor barrier. For these purposes, inexpensive roofing felt and glassine are most often used, but such savings are harmful to health.
When heated, these materials release toxins that easily enter the human body through the lungs. Aluminum foil or heat-insulating materials with foil coating can solve two problems at once - this is not only vapor barrier, but also reflection of heat back into the room. Manufacturers go further by offering fiberglass mats covered with foil. When working with such, the task is simplified - the whole process is reduced to almost one step.
Insulating a sauna with your own hands - step by step!
We've sorted out the materials, now it's the turn of the insulation process itself. Let’s say right away that this process is not simple and quite expensive, but isn’t it worth it? According to all standard schemes, insulation of a bathhouse begins from the floor. And we are talking not only about reducing the degree of displacement of warm air by cold, but also about the comfort of people - walking on a warm, heated floor in a hot steam room is much more pleasant.
How to insulate a sauna with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Insulating the floor
When installing a solid floor, the insulation is laid on a rough plank floor, and a waterproofing layer is in turn attached on top of it, so that its edges extend onto the walls by at least 10 centimeters. After this, the finished floor is laid.
The design of leaking floors is more complex. To begin with, a pit half a meter deep is dug, which is filled to 5 cm with sand. The sand is compacted, and foam plastic slabs 20 cm thick are laid on it. They need to be filled with a five-centimeter layer of a mixture of cement and foam chips(1:1). Waterproofing is laid on the concrete and again filled with a layer of cement with vermiculite (also 1:1) 5 cm thick. Then the reinforcing mesh is spread and concrete with fine crushed stone is poured. Concrete is taken in such a way as to ensure a slope towards the drainage. Once the screed has hardened properly, the finished floor is laid.
Step 2: Lathing walls and ceilings
The technology for insulating walls and ceilings is almost identical, so the work is not divided into two stages, but is carried out simultaneously. First you need to lath the surfaces. If you have a sawmill at home, you can easily make the bars you need measuring 50*50 mm. They need to be stuffed vertically, keeping a distance slightly less than the width of the insulation. As a result, we get miniature niches in which the insulation is straightened. This way it will take its place more tightly.
Step 3: Insulation
If you chose fiberglass or mineral wool, then due to their elasticity they will not need any fastening - just cut the required pieces and straighten them between the sheathing. The recommended insulation thickness, depending on the climate of the region, is from 50 to 100 mm, than colder region, the larger the insulation layer. The ceiling is always insulated with a double portion of materials.
When building a bathhouse, it is important to carefully make thermal insulation. To prevent expensive heat from inside from escaping outside, various seals and insulation are used. However, unlike a residential building, there are a number of nuances associated with temperature changes and high humidity. This must be taken into account when choosing thermal insulation materials. Domestic market offers a wide range of specialized products. Experts recommend considering the following points when purchasing.
- The insulation materials that will be installed from the inside of the bathhouse are selected taking into account environmental friendliness. Humidity and high temperature dissolve toxic compounds, which then enter the lungs or onto people's skin.
- The next important parameter of bath insulation is water repellency. This primarily applies to rooms such as steam rooms and washing rooms.
- Most often, baths are separate unheated buildings. The temperature difference inside is from -30 to +100°C. Not every insulation can handle such a load.
- Any Russian bathhouse has a stove. To insulate the chimney, a heat insulator with high fire resistance is selected.
- Since the bathhouse is built to last for many years, then good quality the insulation will be durable. Some materials can serve well for more than 100 years.
- A classic of the bathhouse genre is the structure made of logs. One of the important stages of insulation will be filling the inter-crown cracks and voids. The better this work is done, the less money will be required to insulate the walls from the inside. It remains to pay more attention to the floor and ceiling.
Our review includes the best insulation for baths. When selecting applicants, the following criteria were taken into account:
- purpose of the material;
- specifications;
- price;
- expert opinion;
- consumer reviews.
TOP 7 best insulation for baths
7 Foam
The best insulation for a dressing room
Country Russia
Average price: 4 rubles (1 sq. m)
Rating (2019): 4.4
Strengths polystyrene foam is low price and light. Therefore, craftsmen use this insulator both where possible and where not. A typical example is the bathhouse. Easy to use polymer material does not absorb moisture, therefore has the right to claim the title the best insulation for a bath. It is easily cut with a knife, and can be secured with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. But there is one significant limitation. At high temperatures, the material can be deformed, and even worse, it can emit an unpleasant smell of phenol that is dangerous to human health. In addition, polystyrene foam burns well, so it is not safe to use it near the stove.
Taking into account all these features of the heat insulator, experts recommend using the material to insulate the dressing room. Moreover, it is better to do this from the outside. And the joints between individual sheets will have to be glued using polyurethane foam.
6 Foam glass
Strength and moisture resistance
Country Russia
Average price: 1,600 rub. (1 sq. m)
Rating (2019): 4.5
Every year it becomes more and more popular environmentally friendly material foam glass for insulation. Due to its strength and moisture resistance, the material is suitable for thermal insulation of a bath. Lightweight blocks with a cellular structure can withstand high temperatures and are not afraid of acids or organic solvents. Experts consider the advantages of the material to be exceptional durability and harmlessness to the human body. Foam glass can be used as insulation for insulation interior spaces baths Microorganisms do not develop in the insulation, rodents and insects do not settle.
Builders note the high strength of the material and ease of installation. In this case, it is necessary to lay the blocks on crosses, similar to installing tiles. This is done to remove excess moisture from the room. Alternative option There will be holes drilled. The disadvantage of foam glass is still its high price.
5 Mineral wool
Universal insulation for baths
Country Russia
Average price: 760 rub. (1 sq. m)
Rating (2019): 4.7
Mineral wool is widely used in the construction industry. With the right approach, it can become a universal insulation for a bathhouse. Experts call the strengths of the material reasonable price, biostability and fire safety. And when it comes to ease of installation, the heat insulator is one of the best. Since mineral wool loses its beneficial features when wet, it is important to use it together with steam and waterproofing materials. Then it will be possible to effectively insulate the floor, walls and ceiling, both from the inside of the bathhouse and from the outside. In addition to retaining heat, mineral wool is an excellent sound insulator.
Builders call mineral wool a classic insulation material. It can be used at different stages of bathhouse construction. You just need to prevent contact with water, otherwise over time the material will begin to crumble. It is better not to use this insulation in a steam room.
4 Expanded clay
Affordable insulation for floors and attics
Country Russia
Average price: 180 rub. (1 cubic m)
Rating (2019): 4.7
There is also a place of honor in the bathhouse for the loose thermal insulator expanded clay. This insulation is not afraid of moisture, microorganisms do not develop in it, and rodents or insects do not visit it. The main areas of application in the bathhouse are the floor and attic. But if, under the roof, expanded clay simply crumbles between the beams, forming a continuous layer of insulation, then there may be some options when installing the floor. In one case, expanded clay is added to concrete screed, another way is to fill the space between the joists. The advantages of expanded clay also include environmental friendliness, durability and reasonable price.
Builders call clay-based bulk material the best thermal insulator for floors and attics. However, when working with it, basic care should be taken. If the granules are damaged, the thermal conductivity of the material increases sharply.
3 Foil insulation
Effective thermal insulator for the ceiling
Country Russia
Average price: 130 rub. (1 sq. m)
Rating (2019): 4.8
One of the most difficult stages of building a bathhouse is insulating the ceiling from the inside. The best option There will be the use of foil materials. Thanks to the thin aluminum coating, the insulator reflects heat and light. This way it is possible to maintain the heat in the steam room or sauna. In addition, the foil becomes a reliable barrier against moisture penetration into the insulation. The fire resistance of the heat insulator can be used when finishing the chimney. By using foil insulation, it is possible to reduce the overall thickness of the ceiling and increase sound insulation.
Experts note the light weight of the heat insulator, its high efficiency, absolute environmental friendliness and hygiene. Users consider the corrosion of the metal coating to be the main disadvantage, so it is additionally necessary to treat the foil with special protective compounds.
2 Inter-crown insulation
Reliable thermal insulation of a wooden frame
Country Russia
Average price: 10 rub. (1m)
Rating (2019): 4.9
It is necessary to begin insulating a log bathhouse at the time of erection of the walls. This work is extremely easy to do if you purchase an inter-crown heat insulator. In a classic Russian bathhouse, it becomes the main type of wall insulation. Builders prefer ribbon jute to traditional moss or flax. The thickness of the material ranges from 4 to 15 mm. Experts highlight the advantages of a heat insulator such as high density and uniformity. After the logs shrink, the seam becomes even more airtight, preventing the penetration of wind and moisture from the outside. The material is easy to install; it needs to be rolled out over the surface of a beam or log and secured with staples using a stapler.
Jute inter-crown insulation exhibits its best properties if its structure is not broken. Accordingly, the disadvantage of the material will be excessive rigidity of the fibers and instability to fracture.
1 Basalt insulation
The most suitable insulator for walls
Country Russia
Average price: 175 rub. (1 sq. m)
Rating (2019): 4.9
Experts consider safety to be one of the main advantages of basalt insulation over other heat insulators. The material, made on the basis of rocks, does not burn, is not afraid of moisture, and does not emit harmful chemical compounds at high temperature. And given the good heat and soundproofing properties, simple installation and long service life (30 years), the material is optimal for insulating walls from the inside of a bathhouse. Neither temperature changes nor strong fluctuations in humidity can deform or destroy rock. Basalt has another significant advantage; rodents and insects are absolutely not interested in this insulation.
In addition to walls, experts use basalt insulation for insulation of floors and roofs. However, the high price does not always allow the insulator to be used as a universal material. A disadvantage of basalt can also be its heavy weight.
In a bathhouse, a well-insulated steam room reaches the desired temperature faster and cools down more slowly, which means that the bathhouse as a whole becomes more economical and practical. Let's figure out how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands, how the layout of the room, the choice of material and their installation affect the quality bath procedures, as well as what dangers may lie in wait if the steam room is not insulated correctly.
Construction, insulation and finishing of the steam room, what you should pay attention to
If the time has come to build a bathhouse, then first you need to design the placement of the steam room, then decide on the finishing option, and, based on this, insulate the room.
Steam room arrangement
Planning is the simplest stage in construction, but it is at this stage that it is necessary to take into account all sorts of nuances that may arise in the process.
When designing a steam room, take into account:
- the number of people who can simultaneously steam in it;
- type of heating furnace.
Based on this, the area of the room, the distance between the shelves, their distance from the stove, the placement of ventilation and much more are calculated.
If the task of how to make a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands according to all the rules turns out to be backbreaking work, then it is better to contact the designers, or choose standard option layouts. For example, a steam room with an area of 2 m wide and 2.4 m long, with a ceiling height of no more than 2.2 m, can accommodate up to three people.
Steam room interior decoration
Usually used for lining a steam room wooden lining, the only difference is the nature of the material. Of course, you can make the lining with plastic, but this is a short-lived material if used in high temperature conditions. Plus, when exposed to hot air, plastic can become a source of release toxic substances, so spending time in such a steam room will not only be uncomfortable, but also dangerous.
The following wood species are considered the correct cladding material: linden, aspen, alder, larch. The lining made from them is quite heat-resistant and does not deform under prolonged exposure to hot steam. Each of them gives off its own individual smell.
Do not use wood containing resin. When exposed to high temperatures, a heavy odor will be released, and drops of resin will appear on the surface. If you really like the smell of a coniferous forest, you can take tree branches or pine cones with you to the steam room.
When purchasing material, pay attention to the presence of defects such as cracks and knots. There shouldn’t be any, otherwise when heated, the cracks will only expand, and the knots will even fall out, forming a through hole.
Insulation
Next, we’ll figure out how to make a steam room in a bathhouse correctly and why insulate the steam room from the inside. Typically, the material for making a bathhouse is timber, less often brick or concrete. If you do not line the inside of the steam room with mineral wool and clapboard, then in the process of creating hot steam it will be necessary to warm up the supporting beam or brickwork. For example, to heat the air in an uninsulated steam room to 100 degrees under the ceiling, 120 kW is needed. An hour of warmth. Provided the steam room is insulated from the inside, only 15 kW will be needed for heating. An hour of warmth. Obviously, it is worth doing insulation, but how to insulate the steam room from the inside is still an open question.
Scheme of thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool followed by clapboard cladding Source masterfasada.ru
Properties to insulate attention
Before insulating a steam room in a bathhouse from the inside, before covering it with clapboard, you should figure out which material is suitable for these purposes.
Insulation for a steam room must have the following properties:
- Moisture resistance. Since the steam room is a place with a high concentration of moisture, the material must be inert to the effects of water and, if possible, vapors, otherwise it will get wet and lose its qualities.
- Temperature resistance. Since the steam room is a place with a high concentration of moisture, the material must be inert to the effects of water and, if possible, vapors, otherwise it will get wet and lose its qualities.
- Safety. When heated, the insulation should not emit harmful substances.
There are a lot of options for how to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse. For example, it is preferable to insulate the walls and ceiling inside with basalt or stone mineral wool. To increase the moisture resistance of the insulation, aluminum foil or ready-made thermal insulation material with a foil layer is used. For horizontal surfaces (floor, attic space) preference is given bulk materials perlite or expanded clay.
Comparison of the vapor permeability of some materials (10 (-6) kg/m x sec x atm):
- aluminum foil – 0;
- glass – 0;
- steel – 0;
- polyethylene films – 0;
- polystyrene foam – 0.1;
- pine board – 2;
- expanded clay concrete – 3;
- mineral wool – 7.
As you can see, mineral wool, having good thermal insulation properties, has practically no vapor barrier. To correct this, use a vapor barrier, for example, aluminum foil or mineral wool with a foil layer on one side. Polyethylene films Although they have zero vapor permeability, they, having a low temperature threshold, are not suitable for use, since they emit an unpleasant odor when heated.
Floor insulation.
Let's figure out how to insulate a steam room so that the high air temperature lasts long enough. To do this, it is necessary to eliminate all possible heat leaks. And you have to start from the floor. In winter, the ground freezes to a depth of an average of 1 m (depending on the region of residence), therefore, the better the floor is insulated, the less heat loss will be through it.
To insulate the floor, a hole is dug around the entire perimeter of the steam room, at least 60 cm deep relative to the level of the finished floor. The bottom of the pit is lined with a sand cushion 5 cm thick. Next layer Thermal insulation material is used, for example, polystyrene foam, 20 cm thick. Then 2 layers cement screed with expanded clay, 5 cm each. And a finishing concrete screed of grade M 200, mesh reinforced with a cell width of 10 cm. When pouring concrete, a slope is formed towards the sewer drain.
After 14 days (the time required for the concrete to fully set), the plank floor is laid.
Spillproof floor. Laying process Source i.pinimg.com
Ceiling insulation
Let's look at how to insulate the ceiling in a steam room of a bathhouse from the inside and outside, from the attic side.
Regardless of what material the ceiling is made of - reinforced concrete slabs or wood, the ceiling of the steam room must be additionally insulated.
A vapor barrier film is spread along the perimeter of the ceiling, overlapping the walls, pressing it against the surface of the slab with wooden blocks 100x100 (mm), the distance between them is 50 cm, or otherwise depending on the width of the insulation boards used. Basalt mineral wool 10 cm thick is laid between the bars. The main vapor barrier is rolled out from foil, which is pressed with clapboard. Optimal thickness wood paneling 10 mm, nails with flattened caps are used to fasten the lining.
The ceiling outside (in the attic) is also subject to insulation. To do this, roll out waterproofing material over the surface and lay a layer of expanded clay 15-20 cm thick.
Thermal insulation of steam room walls
Let's look at how to make a steam room in a bathhouse so that the heat lasts longer. To do this, it is necessary to create the effect of a thermos and insulate not only the horizontal structures of the room, but also the vertical ones. The work algorithm is similar to insulating the ceiling from the inside.
It must be taken into account that wooden sauna made of timber in the first two years of operation shrinks up to 20 cm, depending on the frequency of use of the building. Therefore, when calculating door and window openings, you need to make a height reserve of up to 20 cm, and when insulating walls, use special structural elements.
The first thing to do is to prepare the surface before insulation, clearing it of debris, dirt and dust.
Second, formation wooden frame for subsequent laying of thermal insulation material. To do this, a sheathing is formed from bars 5x5 cm or 6x6 (depending on the thickness of the insulation) in increments of 50 cm.
If the clapboard cladding is “horizontal”, then the sheathing is done vertically, and vice versa, with “vertical” clapboard cladding, the sheathing bars are stuffed horizontally.
Third stage - installation steam-hydro insulating film (it is better to use a stapler to secure it) and insulation.
The fourth stage is vapor barrier with aluminum foil, the joints of which are glued with metallized tape.
Video description
This video clearly explains the nuances correct installation aluminum vapor barrier:
The foil is fixed with a counter-lattice made of slats 2-3 cm thick. This allows you to create an air gap between the vapor barrier and the lining, and further reduce the thermal conductivity of the walls.
The fifth and final stage is clapboard cladding.
Making a steam room in a bathhouse correctly and beautifully
Let's figure out what it means to do it beautifully, and how to make a steam room in a bathhouse correctly.
Area calculation
A properly made steam room is directly responsible for the safety of bathing procedures. Therefore, you should not neglect calculations when designing a steam room and bathhouse as a whole. The size of the room must be calculated not only from the point of view of cost savings for creating desired temperature. Serviceability must be considered heating elements, ventilation shafts, as well as ease of use of the bathhouse.
Video description
All of the above points have already been taken into account in standard projects baths What they are, see in the following video:
Hire a specialist or do it yourself
How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse: a comparison of options for hiring an experienced professional and working independently.
The main advantages of building a bathhouse and insulating a steam room with your own hands:
- Saving money for paid labor, or rather for its absence. After all, all the work is done by the owner himself.
- Total control, starting from the purchase of materials and ending with installation, again due to the fact that everything is done independently without the involvement outsiders and organizations.
The main disadvantages of DIY construction:
- Time. Without working skills and not knowing design standards, it will take a lot of time to study this issue.
- Speed. The work that a specialist can do in a matter of hours, an inexperienced person will do for several days, so that the quality is at a high level.
- Inflated prices when purchasing materials. As a rule, when purchasing materials in bulk, you can save up to 50% of money. This is what organizations working on a turnkey basis take advantage of, purchasing material for several objects at once.
Beauty is in the little things
As a rule, making a steam room in a bathhouse beautiful is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The interior decoration of the walls, ceiling, floor, arrangement of shelves and lighting elements are primarily responsible for presentability in the steam room.
To finish the walls, ceiling and floor, lining of different types of wood is used. You can also combine wood finishes with tiles and stonework.
Key points for insulating a steam room in a wooden bathhouse
Wooden structures shrink during the first years, so start insulating the bathhouse and carry out work on interior decoration better 1-2 years after installing the log house. If you neglect this rule, then after a year cracks will appear in the walls of the bathhouse, which will have to be carefully caulked, sometimes more than once.
If you decide to insulate yourself, then you need to draw up a sequence of work and carry out all the steps flawlessly existing rules and instructions on how to properly make a steam room in a wooden bathhouse.
A steam room insulated according to all the rules is a thermos, which is why, in addition to insulation, steam and waterproofing materials, which not only increase the service life of the material, but also increase its thermal insulation properties.
Structure of the thermos steam room:
- load-bearing wall or partition;
- waterproofing;
- thermal insulation;
- vapor barrier;
- interior decoration.
Video description
The insulation of a bathhouse from the inside is clearly shown in this video:
Insulation materials
There are many thermal insulation materials on the market that are suitable both for insulating a steam room and for insulating other buildings. Therefore, among them it is worth highlighting those that are suitable specifically for interior work in a bathhouse.
It is worth paying attention to the following characteristics:
- increased fire resistance;
- low thermal conductivity;
- resistance to damage by rodents and insects.
Mineral wool is most often used; it not only meets all of the above properties, but is also easy to install, which is important when faced with the task of making a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands.
There are no special requirements for waterproofing films. But with regard to vapor barrier - yes. A cost-effective option, both in terms of cost and installation work is aluminium foil. In order for the foil to work correctly, it is necessary to properly insulate the room by gluing all joints with aluminum tape.
Sources of heat loss
At first glance, the window in the steam room is an extra item, but the room with it looks much more comfortable and presentable. To prevent heat from escaping from the room, you need to install the window correctly and use a two- or three-chamber double-glazed window. Therefore, it’s up to you to decide how to make a steam room with or without a window.
The smaller the door, the less heat will escape when it opens. Also, the gap at the threshold can be a source of cold air entering the steam room, so the threshold under the door is made as high as possible.
Another aspect of preserving heat in a room is the use of stones. The greater the heat capacity they have, the faster the air in the steam room will warm up and cool down more slowly.
The procedure for insulating the walls of a steam room in a bathhouse made of rounded timber.
Due to the drying of the wood in the first years after the construction of the bathhouse, cracks appear at the joints of the logs, in some places up to 1 cm. Therefore, before insulating the steam room from the inside, it is necessary to caulk all the cracks with tow, both outside the building and inside, perhaps even more than once.
Next, a sheathing is installed inside for subsequent installation of insulation. The bars are attached to the beam using sliding corners, this will allow for the option of “walking” the tree during the operation of the bathhouse. The pitch of the sheathing depends on the width of the thermal insulation material.
Insulation boards are laid between the sheathing. To shorten the insulation process, you can use insulation with aluminum vapor barrier layer. All joints and wooden guides are carefully taped with metallized tape.
Ceiling insulation
How to insulate a steam room in a bathhouse to minimize heat loss during bathing procedures. The ceiling must be properly insulated. After all warm air rises up, and if there are cracks in the ceiling, the heat will escape out.
Since the hottest air accumulates under the ceiling, the insulation layer should be twice as thick as the insulation of the walls.
The insulation algorithm is as follows:
- Roll out the waterproofing layer, securing it with a sheathing of bars for laying insulation. The distance between the bars can be made 1-2 cm smaller so that the mineral wool is laid close to them.
- Lay out the insulation.
- Use aluminum foil, which acts as a vapor barrier material, to cover all cracks, wooden protrusions, joints, and gaps. Make an overlap of 15 cm on the walls. Seal all joints and fastening points with staples with metallized adhesive tape.
- Be sure to make a counter-lattice for laying the lining. An air gap will help maintain integrity facing material long years.
Video description
How to insulate a ceiling correctly:
What dangers await you if the steam room is not insulated correctly?
Sooner or later, the flaws of improper work will come out. There are only two main ones:
- Wrong choice of materials. As a result, you can get an unpleasant odor released by the material when heated, poor heat retention and, as a result, high heat and energy consumption.
- Violation of the tightness of the room. It is observed when the vapor barrier of walls and ceilings is incorrect. In this case, there will be a leak of steam, a decrease in heat and an increase in thermal energy consumption. Under the influence of hot air, deformation of finishing materials and internal structures of the building will occur. Steam turning into water will become a source of dampness, and subsequently an unpleasant odor and mold.
Briefly about the main thing
Insulation of the steam room from the inside should be given Special attention. You need to start with the layout of the steam room, choosing the cladding option and insulation material.
Mineral wool is considered the best insulation; for the floor it is preferable to use expanded clay. Aluminum foil is used as a vapor barrier.
It is necessary to approach the process with great responsibility. Therefore, it’s up to you to decide how to make a steam room yourself or with the help of professionals.