Options and technologies for the correct laying of tiles for the sidewalk, the necessary materials and tools. Requirements for the base for paving slabs

Do you have a desire to improve the yard? In this case, you should figure out how to organize the styling. paving slabs... It may seem to you that it will take a lot of time and effort, however, in fact, everything is quite simple. You can pave the paths literally over the weekend, and you don't even need an auxiliary. Today there are many types of paving tiles, so choosing the right color and texture will not be difficult.

We decide on the tiles. Assembling the tool

When choosing tiles, be guided not only by your preferences, but also by performance properties material. What part of the yard do you need to furnish? Ask the manufacturer: can paving slabs withstand heavy equipment, such as a car? Or is it designed exclusively for the weight of a person? This is important because the path on which your car will drive must be especially strong, unlike a regular garden path, on which only a person's foot will tread.

To successfully pave the paving slabs you will need following tools and building materials:

• Cord-ordering.
• Master OK.
• Mallet made of wood or metal.
• Manual or mechanical ramming.
• Building level.
• Any diameter pipe or I-beam.
• Wooden or metal pegs.
• Broom and rake.
• Sand and cement.
• Watering hose or watering can.

Before purchasing the required number of sidewalk tiles, calculate the dimensions of future paths and areas, and also think over the layout of the site. For this you may need a drawing of the tracks. The easiest way to create it is to transfer the plan of the area adjacent to the house to graph paper, and then draw the intended paths on it.

It is very important that the paving slab paths are paved under a certain slope, with the calculation of 0.5 cm for each meter. This will allow water to flow freely onto the lawn or wells.

We mark the paving area

After the drawing is ready, and the required construction material and the instrument is purchased, you can start marking tracks and sites.

Try to stick to the created project as closely as possible. If we are talking about paving paving slabs in the garden, it is better to make the path winding.

To avoid cutting the tiles, make the length and width of the paving plane multiples of the tile itself. This will help you create a more durable pavement surface. Then mark the tracks. When doing this, use pegs, tape measure and cord. Remember to leave a margin that matches the width of the curb. Now you should dig a small ditch around the perimeter.

Walk along the planned route and think if you are completely satisfied with such moves around the site. Then you can proceed to the next step.

We start arranging the base

First of all, it is necessary to remove debris, stones and a layer of turf from the marked area. To even out the area of ​​the outlined paths, you should remove excess soil in elevated places and add it to the depressions. In the process, do not forget about the slope necessary for the drainage of rainwater. Better to do it towards the street, and not towards the house. Level the base using a rake. Then tamp it down. If you have to work with soft soil, dampen it with water before tamping. This will help you avoid uneven subsidence of the paving slabs.

Calculate the depth of the base with a margin, because during the compaction process, the sidewalk will shrink. Usually, a 20-30 cm depression is made for paving tiles, based on the layer of sand and the thickness of the tile. The angle of the track can be longitudinal, transverse or longitudinal-transverse. At this stage, if there is such a need, carry out all communications. To avoid weed growth, lay geotextiles on the base before filling the sand.

Now you need to measure the height of the sand embankment, which cannot exceed 7 cm. Pull an ordering cord between the stakes. Pour sand over the entire area of ​​the path, and then level it using a rake. Fill it with water, and so that puddles form on it. If you are lucky and it is sunny on this day, then you can start leveling the surface after 3 hours, do it with a profile. In gloomy weather, alignment should be started only after a day. As a result, you should have a smooth and even surface.

In the next step, you need to prepare a sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 8: 1. The stacking height of this mixture should not exceed 4 cm. For convenience, measure the indicated height of the mixture on the pegs and pull the cord again. Fill it and level the plane using a channel. As a result, you should have a flat surface again. Tamp each layer thoroughly!

Installing the border. Laying sidewalk tiles

Even at the marking stage, you had to dig a trench around the entire perimeter of the track. This way you can emphasize the accuracy geometric shape laying platform. The ditch should accommodate 40% of the entire height of the curbstone, which also takes into account the five-centimeter layer of sand at the base of the trench. To improve the strength of the curb, install it on a concrete mortar, carefully pouring the base.

And again, before proceeding with the laying process, you should pull the cord along the chamfer, at a predetermined height. Start paving stones from the curb. Pay special attention to the first row, strictly adhere to the height of the cord. Stick to a diagonal direction. In order to avoid trampling the base by the paver itself, start the work "on your own".

Strictly observe the tightness of the tiles, gaps of more than 2 mm are unacceptable. Of course, it is impossible to comply with these requirements at turns and bends, however, here you need to do minimum clearances... Press each tile firmly to the base, you can use a rubber mallet to do this.

When paving paving slabs, you can use crosses, this will allow you to create perfectly even gaps between them. If in the process you notice irregularities, then using a trowel, remove or, conversely, bring a layer of sand under the tile and tamp it. To carry out these processes, use a mallet and a building level.

When finished, check the treadmill for unevenness. If they are, then immediately eliminate the deficiencies. Now remove the crosses from the gaps and sprinkle them with a mixture of sand and cement. Sweep the paths and pour water over them. Re-inspect the masonry, and if the mortar has subsided in the seams, then add it until it is completely filled.

It is unacceptable to use sand with salt impurities, because during operation, white stains will appear on the paths and sites, which will spoil appearance masonry.

Now the laying of paving slabs is complete! After three days you can start active exploitation of new tracks! Now you can think about starting a business, because you have already received a certain amount of knowledge on paving paths from paving slabs!

Experienced with sidewalk tiles? Do you have any difficulties in the process of work? What helped to cope with them? You come up with innovative way masonry, simplifying the process? Share your experience with us! We appreciate your skills and work! Write your comments to the article.

Video

You can see below how to lay paving stones along a string:

Photo

Paving slabs in the design of the territory of a private house is always a winning option. The work on its installation is not cheap, but this is not a reason to give up your dream. Find out how to lay paving slabs with your own hands - embody the chosen design, saving a decent amount.

Arguments in favor of paving slabs

Advantages of paving slabs:

• Big choice colors and forms;
• Reliable and durable;
• Convenient to install;
• Creates a neat and well-groomed look.

This type of decoration is very attractive - the entire yard is being transformed, and the design possibilities are completely unlimited. You can lay out any pattern you want, in terms of colors, shapes and paving methods.

Choice of clinker tiles

The laying of clinker tiles or clinker brick. Even one batch of this material, due to firing, has different shades, which allows you to lay unique platforms and paths. The laying of such bricks is also called clinker paving stones. Retro style always relevant and looks very solid.

Laying - step by step plan

The only disadvantage of paving slabs is the high cost of both the material itself and the work on its installation. But if you study the technology of the case, then you will see that there is nothing complicated about it. Laying paving slabs with your own hands in a small area interesting activity keeping the budget.

Tools for the job

The set of tools and accessories for work is very simple:

• Shovels;
• Rake;
• Rubber mallet;
• Wooden boards;
• Corners and channel bars;
• Level;
• Bulgarian;
• Master OK;
• Homemade rammer;
• Construction line or nylon thread;
• Steel bars.

This entire set can be found in any garage, so there shouldn't be any difficulties at the stage of selecting tools.

Expendable materials

Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to the practical part.

Planning and marking works

The laying of paving slabs begins with a layout on paper. In order to embody your design project, you need a diagram of exactly how each element will be located. This is a color scheme and the very way you are going to lay the tiles - in rows, in a circle, etc.

After that, the preparation of the territory and the marking begins, the technology of which requires the use of steel rods, a strong thread and a level. To carry out work with your own hands, this set is enough to outline the contours of the site, heights and slopes. The pegs (rods) are placed in the ground and the string helps mark the height. It is necessary to outline the slopes so that the water leaves the house. If you lay tiles in this way, you will protect the foundation from moisture, but you should not make excessively sharp slopes and fractures.

Litter preparation

Now you need to decide on the removal of excess soil, since the technology of laying the tiles involves the device of a bedding (pillow) under it. The excavation is done in such a way as to bring the entire surface, along with the litter, to one level. For curbs, appropriate trenches must be dug.

How to make a litter correctly:

• With dense soil - a layer of sand 5-20 cm;
• With loose soil - a layer of gravel 10-15 cm.

Experts recommend even on dense soil to arrange a litter using gravel and crushed stone. This will help prevent deformation of the paved surface. If you put the tiles on a poorly prepared surface, subsidence is possible.

As a cushion for laying clinker or ordinary tiles it is best to use a triple bedding:

• Geotextile (optional);
• Coarse gravel layer;
• Small crushed stone;
• Sand layer;
• Sand-cement dry mix.

Layers of gravel and crushed stone are carefully compacted, covered with sand and spilled with water. The last action is repeated until the sand stops shrinking. Correctly executed technology will create a reliable base for any masonry. Professionals use special vibrating plates for ramming, but when doing the work with your own hands, you can get by with a simple ramming from a handle and heavy tiles. The use of geotextiles is not necessary, but it prevents the germination of plants.

The last layer for laying is a dry mixture of cement and sand, which you can buy, but it is cheaper to prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to take cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 5 and fill it with 3-4 cm as the last layer of litter. It is easiest to distribute this mixture with a rake, and level it with wooden planks and channel.

Border

The curb helps to give the entire plot a clear geometry and a complete look. Tiles are sometimes used in this capacity. bigger size... The curb keeps the entire structure from creeping in different sides, especially when it comes to small areas.

It is correct that the tiles are placed not lower but higher than the curb by 3-5 mm.

The elements of the curb themselves are installed on a liquid solution of M100, the sides are spilled with this composition and covered with sand.

Masonry

The main task when laying tiles is to minimize the gaps between the elements. Correctly work diagonally, laying each tile close to the previous one. The whole process takes place in the direction away from you, without disturbing the even layer of sand with cement.

You can start laying tiles only a day after placing the curb.

The mallet will help to put each slab in its place, and if it does not lay down properly, then you need to lift it and add sand and cement with a trowel. Upon completion of the paving of the entire area, it is necessary to adjust the position of the tiles, which have become out of level.

For the final compaction of clinker or stone paving stones, it is recommended to use a rubber-coated vibratory rammer. This stage will give the surface perfect view however, this is not an obligatory step, but a desirable one.

It often happens that some elements will have to be cut with a grinder, especially when the seme requires complex lines. But it will be correct to lay all the whole tiles first. Cutting by eye is not worth it, you need to clearly draw a line, attaching each element to its intended place.

The final stage

After elimination of surface defects, all cracks are filled with a grinder mixture of sand and cement. The excess must be washed off from the hose with a spray nozzle, and the crevices must be well moistened. The mixture between the tiles can sag heavily, then you need to add a little more. Such thoroughness is not in vain, because the joints take on a considerable load. Therefore, do not skip this step, even if you are doing your own styling for personal use. It is important to use clean sand, free from dust, impurities and salts. When filling the cracks with dirty sand, the site may begin to overgrow with weeds.

Immediately after installation, you cannot walk on the paved surface - you need to wait 2-3 days.

Whichever tile you choose, by doing the work with your own hands, you will save a good amount. This is much better than saving on the quality of the material, limiting your desires. Paving stones or clinker tiles look great, creating a stylish design. Paving technology for different materials does not differ, therefore, according to the described scheme, you can lay any tile with your own hands.

Most likely you were also looking for:

For craftsmen who carry out the laying of paving slabs with their own hands step-by-step instruction will help to save the budget for arranging walking paths and parking lots near the cottage. The technology is the same for concrete tiles and polymer materials... Work should be carried out in the summer in the absence of precipitation.

Features of the installation of paving slabs (TP)

This coating allows you to completely avoid concreting and other "wet" finishing processes, but only on soils with normal bearing capacity. If the site is located on a fresh embankment, undermined and problem soils (for example, silty sand or clean clay), has a complex relief, it is necessary to concreting the base to ensure a rigid underlying layer and uniform distribution of loads on the ground.

On sands, gravelly, rocky soil, sandy loam and loam, it is enough to remove the arable layer and replace it with non-metallic material:

• paths - sand;
• parking - crushed stone 5/40.

Crushed stone base of the parking lot.

To exclude mutual mixing of soil with inert materials, the bottom of the pit should be covered with geotextile and this non-woven fabric on the side walls. Compaction with a vibrating plate requires layers of 10 - 15 cm maximum thickness, as in the photo below.

Geotextile layer.

A vibrating plate with an electric or gasoline drive will be needed for further stages anyway. Therefore, it is either rented or made by hand. You will also need a tool:

• the rule is special, made from a board, ordinary plaster 1.5 - 2 m;
• rubber mallet - for laying paving slabs (TP) and installing curbs;
• level - preferably laser, but bubble will also work, on difficult terrain - hydraulic;
• hard brush - needed to fill the seams at the last stage;
• LBM ("grinder") - used for cutting cladding elements;
• cord - marking of the route, slopes;
• trowel and shovel - sand filling and leveling.

TP paving tool.

Important! Crushed stone is laid in its natural state, the sand is abundantly moistened, it is not necessary to spill it from a hose / bucket in order not to create with my own hands the top water in this technogenic layer.

On difficult terrain, terracing is first performed with retaining walls made of gabions or monolithic reinforced concrete... Otherwise, lateral soil movements will disrupt the geometry of the tracks after a couple of years of operation.

Even on flat areas, the slope of the paving slabs is necessary, since the material is waterproof, and the gaps between the paving elements are not enough to quickly divert storm and flood drains. Between the curbs and the tiles, it is advisable to mount stormwater trays, and integrate storm water inlets into the covering under the vertical drains of the roof gutters.

Paving technology

It is important for a home craftsman to understand that the quality and resource of the coating garden paths completely depend on soil conditions:

• clay soils swell unevenly, disrupting the geometry of sidewalks and parking lots;
• problem soils sink over time;
• on slopes and without contouring by curbs, the tile spreads.

To fix the base, the tiles will have to be completely dismantled.

When buying non-metallic materials, it is worth considering:

• in parking lots, a fraction of crushed stone 20/40 is preferable, depending on traffic intensity and operational loads with a layer thickness of 30 cm;
• for tracks, 5/20 crushed stone is enough with a layer of 10 - 15 cm;
• it is better to choose river sand or washed quarry sand with a minimum percentage of clay;
• when compaction with a vibrating plate, the compaction coefficients are 1.7 for sand, 1.3 for crushed stone, therefore, when buying, the volume of the pit must be multiplied by these numbers, otherwise there will not be enough material.

Paving slabs must provide required quality the exterior of the tracks and the durability of the pavement. Therefore, the cladding is chosen according to the characteristics:

Hyper-pressed paving slabs.

Important! Vibrocasting products are cheaper because they are easier to manufacture, have an original configuration, and reduce the finishing budget. Hyper-pressed tiles are difficult to split, damage, this option is optimal for parking lots that are serviced in winter by snow plows.

Vibrated TP.

Layout and layout

Unlike load-bearing structures the layout of the backyard space is most often combined:

• curvilinear and radius forms are used to increase artistic value;
• straight tracks are marked with cords along the rags;
• fillets are outlined directly on the ground by patterns or large-sized compasses (a rod tied with a cord to the central peg).

When marking, the following factors should be considered:

Chernozem contains organic matter, which rot under the tiles and shrinks. Therefore, the loose arable layer must be removed, used in the beds, in landscape design or take it out of the site. The resulting layout is called by professionals "trough", in which further operations of paving TP are carried out.

Important! The roots of mature bushes and trees are dangerous for paving slabs, so they are either uprooted or pedestrian traffic routes are laid at a distance of 3 m from them.

Drainage and bedding

The TP should be laid on a rigid base that has drainage properties, since part of the storm water is discharged through the cracks between the tiles. However, natural drainage is not enough to cope with the entire volume of water in heavy rain and to divert roof drainage when walking a path near a house or facing a blind area with this material. Therefore, several conditions must be met:

If a plow layer of more than 40 cm is removed and a 6 - 8 cm thick TP is chosen for facing, the thickness of the underlying layer increases sharply so that the paths rise slightly above the adjacent soil. To save the budget in this case, you can use cheaper materials in the lower level of the underlying layer than crushed stone, river sand - sandy loam or loam. They also need to be compacted with a vibrating plate to a similar surface condition.

The curbs (curbstone) are much higher than the tiles (20 cm), therefore, along the contour of the paving, it is necessary to make a trench of the same width 25 - 30 cm deep in order to put the curb on the layer of mortar.

Curb trench

Important! In places where the stormwater trays pass, another trench will be required, since the height of these elements varies between 13 - 41 cm, depending on the design and material.

Installation of curb stones

Without curbs, the sidewalks will lose their shape, as the tiles on the sides "crawl". The curb must be laid along a cord, taking into account the longitudinal and perpendicular slopes of the decorated areas on cement-sand mortar... The ratio of ingredients is 1/4 (cement / sand, respectively. The technology has the form:

• with a trowel, a solution is placed in the trench;
• the curb is installed on it and upset with a mallet along the cord;
• outside and inside in 2 - 3 places, the solution is laid in a slide on lateral surfaces the curb just below the sand layer on which the tiles will be mounted, as in the photo below.

Paving is possible in a day or two, after hardening with a cement stone.

Advice! Regardless of the size of the stormwater trays, it is better to mount them along the curbs with them at the same stage. These elements are also installed on a mortar that takes time to cure.

Paving with tiles

There are techniques for laying TP on cement-sand mortar (for operation in difficult conditions), dry mix (1/5 cement, sand, respectively) and on clean river sand. Practice has proven that when adding cement to the dry mixture, the developer does not receive any additional benefits, but the maintainability of the coating sharply decreases and the finishing budget increases. Therefore, in 80% of cases, paving slabs are mounted on dry sand using the following technology:

Advice! Installing a curb at the ends of the tracks is not always possible. To prevent the spreading of paving elements on such a site, the last two rows are mounted on a cement-sand mortar.

Ways of adjoining TP to the ground and screeds.

The nuances of laying paving slabs

Paving problems usually arise when shaping curved sections. The simplest option on curved paths is to lay rectangular elements like the bottom photo:

• the tile is oriented with the long side in the direction of travel;
• work starts from a smaller radius;
• each element is displaced relative to the adjacent one;
• transverse and vertical seams are wedge-shaped.

Rectangular TP when cornering.

If the developer has chosen a collection of tiles with a complex configuration (for example, "clover"), the paving technique changes dramatically:

• the seams are displaced at 45 - 60 degrees along the length of the winding section;
• the surface is filled with solid elements;
• pieces are stacked near the curbs.

Less often, the "Ray" technology is used, when the TP of a rectangular format is oriented perpendicular to the curbs.

At difficult radius intersections and large sections, the direction of the seams can be changed to increase the artistic value of the composition.

Decorating a complex radius intersection.

Thus, it is easier and cheaper to pave paths, recreation areas and parking lots on the site on sand with cast or vibropressed paving slabs along straight routes. In radius areas, the above recommendations should be taken into account. For problem soils, a hard concrete sub-base should be made.

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Pay attention to the paving slabs. This material has proven itself perfectly, it is strong, durable, beautiful. Now there are many types of paving slabs and everyone can choose the one suitable for the facade of the house or just the one that suits him. Laying paving slabs with your own hands may seem like a very difficult and troublesome task, but in fact, everything is extremely simple. Garden paths can be paved with paving slabs over the weekend, and it takes about two weeks and a utility room to cover a large yard.

Before you start laying, you need to figure out the main types of paving slabs. The main types of paving slabs are stamped and vibrated. It is better to stop your choice on vibrated paving slabs, which more than pay off a little more cost with a beautiful appearance and durability.

The thickness of the paving slabs may vary. Typically, the thickness of paving slabs varies between 20-60 mm. 20mm paving slabs are suitable for garden paths or areas that are guaranteed not to be driven by cars. In the yard, they are most often laid with paving slabs 40-45 mm thick. 60mm tiles are laid where multi-ton trucks will drive.

The tile pattern can be any, but beginners are not recommended to take on the laying of tiles such as "rhombus", "brick" and "paving stones". It is more difficult to lay such a tile, the craftsmen ask for more money for working with it.

The color of the tiles can also be almost any, but it is worth considering that colored tiles are more expensive than gray ones.
This article discusses the technology of laying paving slabs with your own hands.

Materials and tools for laying paving slabs

• Sand. You will need a lot of sand (several tons), its amount depends on the area of ​​the yard, as well as the characteristics of the landscape.
• Paving slabs (the quantity is calculated by the manufacturer by the square).

• Border
• Cement

• Strong elastic thread
• Metal pegs
• Hammer
• Rubber hammer

• Shovel
• Long rule
• Two steel pipes about an inch in diameter
• Rammer
• Wheelbarrow
• Level
• Master OK
• Buckets
• Broom
• Grinder with diamond blade for cutting concrete

• Knee pads

Laying paving slabs with your own hands

Decide on the slope of the site. A slope of several degrees must be present, otherwise, after rain, the water will stand in the yard. The slope is best done towards the street. If you choose to follow this advice, the street level is taken as the zero point.

Along the zero line (the line to which the platform will be inclined), drive two metal pegs into the ground and pull a thread between them. Check horizontality with a level. It is better to apply the level to the thread from below.

Tie another thread to one of the pegs and pull it perpendicular to the first. Tie the free end of the thread to a new peg and drive it into the ground so that the other end is slightly above the zero line. This can be checked with a level (the angle of inclination should be several degrees).

Tie another thread to the last hammered peg at the same level with the previous one and pull it parallel to the zero line, check the horizontalness with a level. Tie the free end to the fourth peg.

Thread the first and last pegs together. As a result, you will get a rectangle marked with threads and lying in the plane of the future site with laid paving slabs.

Now we need to divide our surface into stripes. The width of the stripes is selected based on the length of your rule (the stripe should be several tens of centimeters narrower than the rule). Set aside the selected distance from the zero line and drive a peg into the ground. Do the same on the opposite side. Connect the pegs with thread, equalizing its height along the sides of the rectangle, perpendicular to the zero line. Divide the entire area into strips in the same way.

Now you need to align the site with the markup. Where the thread is too close to the ground, the soil must be removed, and where the holes are too large, pour in. The gap between the soil and the threads should be approximately two tile thicknesses. All this is done by eye, no special precision is required.

The soil, especially where it was poured, must be carefully tamped. To do this, use a rammer. In our case, the rammer was made independently from a paw from a crane with a welded handle.

When the site is leveled, you can start laying paving slabs.

Prepare a sand-cement mixture. To do this, pour a bunch of sand right on the ground, gradually mixing cement there in a ratio of about 6 to 1. It is desirable that the sand is wet, therefore it is better to lay paving slabs in spring or autumn, when it is not very hot and rather damp.

Spread the prepared mixture evenly over one of the strips.

Tamp thoroughly.

Lay steel pipes under the threads that mark the border of the strip. The gap between the pipe and the thread should be approximately one centimeter less than the thickness of the tile. The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and at the same height.

Wear shoes and pants that you don't mind ruining, and don't forget about knee pads. Kneel down between the strands, skip the rule underneath, and run over the surface of the pipes. You will see where you need to add the cement-sand mixture.

Pour in the required amount of cement-sand mixture. Start tamping it down with your hands while stretching out the rule. You will have an even strip, ready to lay. You can add some sand-cement mixture and sprinkle over the leveled area.

Prepare and carefully examine the tiles, lay them in stacks near the prepared area. The tiles are basically all flat, but there are also defects. Some tiles can be convex (turtle), concave (plate), and curved (propeller). It is better not to use such tiles and set them aside for emergency purposes.

Lay one tile, carefully leveling it along the axes of the markings.

Tap the tile with a rubber mallet, sinking it into the ground to the level of the markings.

Do the same with the next tile. The sequence of laying the tiles is selected depending on the pattern of the tiles.

Start laying paving slabs away from you. So, gradually moving forward, you will walk on the tiles you have just laid.

Prepare the base in the same way and lay the next strip of paving slabs.

If there are obstacles on the way (in our case gas pipe and sewer hatch), they need to be bypassed with whole tiles. The final trimming and trimming is best done at the end.

After each working day, the tiles must be swept. During installation, gaps are formed between the tiles, which must be filled. It is the process of filling the gaps that is called sweeping. For sweeping, we need dry sand and cement. They need to be mixed in a ratio of 1 to 6. Spread the mixture evenly over the tile, and then sweep with a broom several times, filling the gaps.

Attention: sometimes when using a sand-cement mixture for sweeping, it may remain on the colored tiles white bloom from cement. This may be due to the quality of the tile, or the peculiarities of its production. Conscientious tile manufacturers in such cases are advised to sweep with clean sand. If in doubt, you can refuse to use a mixture of sand and cement, use only sand.

It is unlikely that your site will be perfectly rectangular, so you cannot do without trimming. Where to cut is determined in place. Tiles are trimmed using a grinder with a diamond disc for concrete.

If you want to make flower beds, mark them out with threads or a bead. Saw off the excess tiles protruding beyond the borders of the flower beds.

The flowerbeds and the edges of the area with the laid tiles must be framed with a border. To do this, dig a trench along the edge with a trowel or small spatula. The depth of the trench is selected based on the planting depth of the curb.

Install the curb sections and secure them to the meta with thick mortar.

Near the curbs, you will have cells where you need to lay the trimmed tiles. The soil in these places must be tamped especially carefully, as it could crumble when digging a trench.

Trim the rest of the tiles as needed to fill in the gaps created while avoiding obstacles.

Where the tile fits close to the gate, it is better to lay it not on the cement-sand mixture, but on the mortar, since in this place the load on the tile will be maximum.

This article discusses the process of laying tiles in the yard, but in the case of garden paths and a blind area, everything is much simpler and does not require such careful preparation.

Paving slabs - perfect option for finishing garden paths, areas near the house, garage or recreation area. The cost of laying paving slabs is quite high, by doing this process with your own hands, you will be able to save a lot. We will talk further about how to lay paving slabs with our own hands.

Manufacturing technology of material and photo of laid paving slabs

For the manufacture of paving slabs, concrete is most often used. The composition of the mixture for the production of tiles contains cement, water, plasticizers and other fillers. There are certain requirements for the manufacture of tiles, due to GOST.

In order for the tile to ultimately turn out to be of high quality and serve its owners for many years, it is necessary to strictly observe the technological process of its manufacture and the dosage of materials. In some expensive tile options, there is also clay, granite chips or polymer sand.

The shape of the tile depends on the preferences of the customer, it can be rectangular, triangular, square, rhomboid, hexagonal, etc. The color of the tile is determined by the coloring pigment included in its composition. Most often, tiles are produced in sand, olive, brown or beige.

How to lay paving slabs: the advantages and disadvantages of the material

Paving slabs are a fairly popular material for sidewalk finishing. The scope of its use is quite diverse. With its help, they decorate not only alleys, parks and squares, but also private houses and cottages. This material is distinguished not only by its attractive appearance, but also by good performance characteristics.

Among the advantages of using paving slabs, we note:

• frost resistance - great quality this material, ensuring its long-term operation;
• environmental safety - in the production of tiles, harmless to human body substances that do not emit toxic substances during heating;
• durability of operation is another important advantage that ensures the popularity of this material in the finishing process, the technology of manufacturing tiles involves the use of special pressing, which makes the tile highly durable and resistant to mechanical damage;
• the tile does not need additional care, it is easy to clean and clean with water;
• resistance to moisture and other irritants external environment provide the ability to lay tiles on the street;
• aesthetic appeal is another important advantage of this material; tiles are distinguished different sizes, colors, textures, while it is used for both domestic and industrial purposes;
• affordable cost is ensured by the cheapness of the materials that make up the tiles.

However, this material has the following disadvantages:

• the presence of seams between the tiles leads to the accumulation of dirt in them, which worsens the appearance of the coating;
• ice that accumulates on the tiles in winter makes them slippery;
• if you do not follow the technology of laying the material, the tiles sink in certain places, you have to dismantle it and lay it again;
• if a tile with a high porosity is selected, then moisture accumulates in it, which further destroys the material in severe frosts.

The main varieties of paving slabs

Before you lay the paving slabs yourself step by step, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the varieties of this material, since the laying technology for each type of tile is individual.

First of all, paving slabs are solid and pressed. The scope of use of each of these tile options is diverse. Cast tiles are used in the process of arranging the territory in front of private houses, and pressed tiles are used in the process of decorating city parks, squares, paths, etc.

In the technological process of making tiles, the processing of a dry composition with a vibropress or vibratory casting is used. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with these processes in more detail:

1. Vibration casting involves laying a concrete composition in a special form, placing them on a coating that is constantly amenable to vibration. After ramming the composition into a mold, it is removed from the surface and installed in the oven for twelve hours, holding there at a temperature of 385 degrees. To improve the quality of the tiles, various plasticizers are added to the concrete composition.
2. The second method of material processing involves vibrocompression. The concrete composition is placed in molds, which are installed on a constantly vibrating table. Initially, the die is influenced by the press, then it is compacted under the influence of vibration. After giving the composition the required shape, the matrix rises, and the tile remains on the table.

For further use of the tile, it is necessary to wait until it has completely solidified. The molding method of making tiles is cheaper and easier; it does not need additional equipment and technological processes. Therefore, cast products are distinguished by a variety of colors, shapes and colors.

Note that the tiles are too saturated color involves the use in the process of its production of a large amount of dyes. This factor negatively affects operational characteristics material.

Vibro-pressed tiles are more expensive, as their production requires specialized equipment. This option tiles are more frost-resistant, moisture-resistant, there are practically no pores on it, however, such tiles do not differ in a variety of colors and shapes.

How to properly lay paving slabs - general information

The method of laying paving slabs depends on its purpose:

• functional - laying material on office roads, footpaths, in front of private houses in places with increased operational load;
• decorative - making beautiful patterns from tiles, original designs etc.

In relation to the base on which the tiles are laid, it should be noted:

• sandy base - needs careful compaction, is used on pedestrian paths, is not suitable for vehicles to move along it;
• the use of a dry - cement-sand mixture, as it hardens, it contributes to the formation of a solid foundation, is suitable for finishing parking lots;
• application adhesive solution on cement base - this way installation of paving slabs is the most expensive, but also the most reliable, initially the base is poured with concrete, then the tiles are laid on a special glue.

How to properly lay paving slabs on the sand

Most often, the shape of the paving slabs is rectangular. There are many schemes according to which the tiles are laid - the most popular of them are: herringbone, brick or stacking in the form of columns. Paving slabs have gained popularity due to their ease of installation. Correctly laid tiles will serve their owners for more than a dozen years.

The type of base on which the tiles are laid is determined by its thickness and purpose. In any case, it is initially necessary to remove 15 cm of soil into the base, level it and equip a slope for water drainage.

This is followed by the process of tamping the site with sand. For this, the sand, as it falls asleep, is moistened and well rammed. Special attention pay off the thickness of the material, if the tile is intended only for pedestrian movement, then a thickness of 2 cm is sufficient, otherwise, given value increases to 4-6 cm.

Before laying paving slabs on the sand, prepare materials in the form of:

• sand, the amount of which depends on the total area of ​​installation;
• paving slabs;
• curb elements;
• cement;
• hammer and rubber;
• steel peg
• shovels;
• level;
• grinders.

After the formation of the slope of the area of ​​the site on which the tiles are laid, the area should be divided into strips. However, the stripe must equal the width of the rule. Use pegs and string to divide the area. Next, the site is leveled using sand.

After that, the process of direct laying of the tiles follows. In order to prepare a sand-cement mixture, sand and cement should be combined in a six to one ratio. Please note that the sand must be moist. It is recommended to carry out work in autumn-spring period... The prepared composition is evenly distributed over one strip, carefully compacted. Further, under the thread that delimits the site into zones, a steel pipe is installed. After careful leveling of the site with a sand-cement composition, the tiles are laid. Install the first tile starting from the corner, carefully align it in relation to the markings. Tap it with a rubber mallet. Lay the second tile in the same way. Start working on your own, thus, when laying the tiles, you will move along it.

If there are any obstacles on the site, it is bypassed with whole tiles, and then adjusted at the end of the work. After completing the work, the tiles are swept away from the sand. To fill the gaps between the tiles, the same mortar of sand and cement is used in a six to one ratio. All gaps must be carefully filled.

It is easiest to lay square paving slabs. Use a grinder and diamond disc to trim and fit tiles. Install borders around the edges of the tile. A thick concrete solution is used to fix them. In the presence of areas that are subject to special stress, for example, near a gate, it is preferable to lay the tiles on concrete base.

How to install paving slabs on a concrete base

Sometimes there are situations when you have to lay paving slabs on a pre-poured concrete base. This method of stacking provides greater strength of the material. Vehicles and heavy equipment can ride on the tiles laid on the concrete base.

Initially, the site is marked for laying. Next, you should initially install the curbs, having previously calculated their location. If the height of the curb is about 50 cm, then it is placed in a 25 cm trench, while 10 cm of the trench should be covered with gravel, 15 mm of the trench is filled with concrete mortar, then the curb is mounted in such a way as to facilitate the removal of moisture from the tile.

If the base will be subjected to a high operational load, then it is recommended to reinforce it before pouring the concrete layer. To lay the sidewalk concrete tiles should comply with all technological nuances... For surface reinforcement, a mesh is used, the thickness of the cells of which is 15 cm.

For additional drainage of moisture from the tiles, it is recommended to equip special drainage holes. For these purposes, an asbestos pipe cut into sections with a height of about 150 mm is suitable. For one square meter one piece of asbestos pipe is installed.

This is followed by the process of preparing a concrete solution, which covers an area of ​​15 cm, if there is no reinforcement on it and 20 cm, if there is reinforcement. When pouring large area, after three meters, it is necessary to leave gaps for the expansion joint. For this, boards are installed, then after the concrete has set, they are removed.

Removable 24 hours after pouring wooden formwork, and the drainage holes are filled with rubble. In order for the tile to adhere well to the surface, it is laid on a mixture of sand and cement.

To mix them together, use a concrete mixer. The thickness of the sand layer is about 10 cm. A vibrating plate or treadmill is used to tamp the composition. Watch for a slope on the surface to ensure water drainage. A rubber mallet is also used to fix the tiles. Work should start from the curb, gradually moving to the top point of the site. Using a level, the surface is checked for evenness, if necessary, the tiles are adjusted using a rubber hammer. The same mortar of sand and cement is used to fill the joints between the tiles. Through these seams, moisture will enter the drainage holes and will accumulate in the tile.

How to lay paving slabs video: