IN Lately Beans are becoming an increasingly popular product as they are rich in many vitamins and minerals. In terms of protein, this vegetable healthier than meat Chicken. The unpretentiousness of the crop makes it attractive for cultivation both on agricultural land and in summer cottages.
Vegetable beans: description of garden crops
– herbaceous plant legume family. Beans can be bush or climbing, have pinnate leaves with stipules. The inflorescences have a racemose shape and are formed in the axils. The fruit is a bivalve pod, inside of which there are bean grains, separated by partitions. The shape of the bean and its color depend on the variety. Vegetable or bush beans are considered the most delicious; they are also called asparagus beans because they can be eaten together with the pod. The most popular varieties vegetable beans:
Did you know? Residents of Foggy Albion are famous for their prim restraint and simply Olympian calm. It turns out that in the UK they consume more beans than the inhabitants of all of Europe combined. Beans are often recommended for people with nervous disorders, as it is an excellent sedative for the nervous system.
Where is the best place to plant beans, choosing a location on the site
Many gardeners prefer to grow beans around fruit trees. The plant really suits places protected from drafts, preferably sunny, with nutritious soil and deep groundwater.
Predecessors of beans
In bean agricultural technology, it is important to choose the right predecessors. The best crops for the crop will be: cabbage, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, cucumbers and potatoes. It will be successful for beans to be next to beets, onions, and carrots.
Important! It is recommended to plant beans after other legumes no earlier than four years later.
Soil requirements for planting
Beans do not develop on heavy clay soils, with poor drainage and high nitrogen saturation - the plant is able to extract the amount of nitrogen it needs from the air. The best yield of beans can be achieved in well-drained, light and fertile soil. Three days before sowing, the soil under the beans is dug up, if necessary, fertilized with compost or rotted manure. If the soil is heavy, add sand (half a bucket per square meter). Then the soil is leveled with a rake. The fertilized and prepared bed is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
Do beans require lighting?
If beans are demanding of anything, it’s good lighting necessary for good growth and development. Culture needs light twelve hours a day. If the plant grows in a illuminated area, then the daylight hours are enough for it.
How to plant beans in the country: a description of the planting process
Before sowing beans, the seeds should be soaked in water overnight. Before soaking, carefully sort through, discarding those unsuitable for sowing, then, immediately before planting, keep in the solution for five minutes boric acid: per five liters of water – 1 gram. Such disinfection will protect the beans from pests and fungal infections.
Landing dates
Flowering chestnuts will tell you when to sow beans: they bloom when the threat of frost has passed and the soil is sufficiently warm, approximately 12 degrees to a depth of 10 cm. Climbing beans are planted seven days later than bush upright ones. The vegetable can be sown for several harvests from May to the first ten days of July.
Planting process
Sowing beans in the country follows the following scheme:
- Bush varieties - depth up to 6 cm, spacing between plants up to 25 cm, distance between rows up to 40 cm;
- Climbing varieties - the depth is the same, the distance between bushes is up to 30 cm, row spacing is up to 50 cm.
Caring for beans in the garden
Correct and timely care- the basic rule of how to grow a good harvest of beans. The crop needs watering, fertilizing, proper care behind the soil; if it is a climbing variety, then in a garter, as well as in pinching the tips of the shoots for better development both shoots and fruits.
Watering beans
Before the beans form buds, they are watered no more than twice a week, depending on the condition of the soil - it should be moist. When five strong leaves are formed, watering is stopped for a while. As soon as the plant has bloomed, watering is resumed, gradually doubling.
Attention! Beans love rainwater, it is recommended to stand if there is none. tap water at least a day.
Features of feeding beans in open ground
When the first strong leaf is formed, the plant receives the first feeding of superphosphate at the rate of 30 g per square meter. Next fertilizer for beans - potassium salt (15 g per square meter) - added during the formation of buds.
Important! It is undesirable to feed beans with nitrogen fertilizers; they produce them themselves, and excess will lead to strong growth of green mass to the detriment of the fruits.
Soil care
One of no less important conditions When growing beans, care is taken to care for the soil. The first loosening procedure is needed when the plant reaches a height of 7 cm. The second time, loosening with hilling is carried out after 14 days. The third time they loosen and hill up before closing the rows of adult plants. During dry periods trunk circle The bush is mulched to retain moisture and protect the roots from overheating. Weeding is carried out regularly.
Interesting! In Bulgaria they love beans so much that they organize a holiday in their honor. Every year in November, a bean cannon firing ceremony takes place, and guests of the holiday are treated to various dishes made from beans.
How to protect beans from pests and diseases
How to grow beans in the country and protect them from diseases and pests? The most common plant diseases are viral mosaic, anthracnose and bacteriosis. Unfortunately, you cannot fight the first: if the plant is sick, it needs to be dug up and burned. This disease can be prevented by following the rules of agricultural technology, care and crop rotation.
In the case of bacteriosis and anthracnose, fungicides can help, but the above rules must also be followed. Bordeaux mixture may be suitable as a means of control. As a preventative treatment, use “Fitosporin”; the treatment is carried out twice: before flowering and after harvesting.
Vegetables as valuable as beans are worth looking for. Vegetarians replace meat with it, food lovers meat dishes They are happy to complement them with beans. Thanks to its balanced nutrient content, this legume can almost completely replace meat foods. The nutritional value raw beans – more than 300 kcal per 100 g of product. It contains: more than 20% protein, 40 - 50% carbohydrates, about 2% fat, essential amino acids, vitamins and microelements. This composition makes beans, along with other legumes, a valuable product in bodybuilding, fitness and other sports that require a balanced, protein-rich diet. And who can resist the aroma exuded by asparagus in batter or, for example, Ukrainian borscht with rich beans?! This vegetable is no less useful in the garden than in the kitchen. Beans, like all legumes, belong to green manure plants and are a good predecessor for all garden crops, and in addition, they can serve as a compacting crop, supplying their neighbors with easily digestible nitrogen and simultaneously protecting them from pests. That's what it is, a bean!
When to sow beans in open ground
Beans are heat-loving and the slightest frost can be fatal for it, so it is recommended to start planting seeds with the onset of stable heat, when the soil is warmed up to 12 - 15° C, and the probability of night frosts tends to zero. A favorable time for planting beans, as a rule, coincides with the flowering of the chestnut tree.
Bush beans have a shorter growing season than climbing beans, so they can be planted well into July, just like climbing beans or cowpeas, which will be harvested green. Climbing beans that are planned to be grown “for beans” should not be planted too late, as they simply will not have time to ripen.
Planting and care
Beans prefer soil that is loose, nutritious, well-drained, but not oversaturated with nitrogen, since it itself is capable of absorbing nitrogen from the atmosphere and converting it into a form more accessible to other plants. This property can be taken advantage of by densely sowing beans (or other legumes) on poor, depleted soils and thereby improve their health.
The depth of planting beans is about 5 cm.
If beans are planted in a separate row or bed, then it is advisable to plant them in furrows made with a flat cutter, hoe, hoe or other devices.
If beans serve as a compacting crop, then in order not to harm other plants, they are planted “under a stick”.
After the emergence of seedlings, it is advisable to mulch the row spacing in order to eliminate (or minimize) the need for watering, weeding and other operations that take time, effort and nerves. As mulch, you can use freshly cut grass, hay, straw, weeds that have not had time to seed, green mass of grape shoots after pinching, etc. The optimal layer of mulch is 3–5 cm.
If you have not yet “made friends” with mulch, then you will need regular loosening of the soil, weeding and hilling, as well as watering once or twice a week.
Climbing beans:
For normal growth, it definitely needs support; this should definitely be provided for at the planting stage. Long poles inserted individually for each bush can serve as supports. The poles should not be cleared of bark and should not be made too smooth so that the vine has something to cling to. Also, various trellises, improvised wigwams, fences, twine guides tied to a horizontal crossbar, etc. can serve as support for climbing beans.
Also, a good support and neighbor for climbing beans can be planted together with it. The ancient Incas knew about the symbiosis of corn, beans and pumpkins; they grew them in combined plantings and called them “three sisters.”
Distance between plants:
- It is advisable to maintain about 30 cm in a row,
- The row spacing is about 50 cm.
Also, when planting, you should take into account that the bean trellis greatly shades nearby crops and place it on the north side of the bed. A circular “wigwam” creates less shade, and in its middle you can plant a crop that needs shading at that moment.
Bush beans:
It does not need support, it is more compact and is often used in combined plantings with eggplants, cucumbers and some other crops. Bad neighbors for beans are and, they mutually dislike each other.
Bush beans can be planted thicker than climbing beans:
- In a row - approximately 20 cm;
- Row spacing – 30 – 40 cm.
There is no need for pest control treatments due to a mixed crop: the plants mutually protect and camouflage each other, and if some “vagrant” pest finds one bean bush, then getting to the rest through the jungle of potatoes, corn, cabbage and other herbs will not be easy at all. . So, before you stuff your garden vegetables with all sorts of supposedly “safe” chemicals, first think three times, is it possible to deal with the pest problem in another way?
Beans and corn
Beans in the potato rows
None of the crops in the photo have ever been sprayed with any chemicals, nor are they familiar with mineral fertilizers! But all our vegetables know first-hand what green manure, composting and mulching are, for which they are grateful for their abundant harvests.
What do you say about this? It's interesting to hear your opinion in the comments.
Beans are one of the most useful and popular vegetable crops grown in middle zone. Due to its dietary properties, it is included in the diet of people suffering from kidney and gastrointestinal diseases. Due to the increased protein content, beans are considered a complete meat substitute and an excellent source of energy, as a result of which they are recommended for consumption by people engaged in heavy physical labor and sports. The trace elements and amino acids it contains have a beneficial effect on human body, contribute to its recovery after illness and general cleansing. A lot of tasty and delicious dishes are prepared from beans. healthy dishes: it is boiled, fried, stewed and canned for the winter, and after heat treatment all are saved beneficial features culture. But! Eating beans raw is undesirable and sometimes even dangerous.
In addition to the fact that beans have good taste, they are a very unpretentious agricultural crop, due to which they are successfully cultivated in open ground both in large fields and in small summer cottages. Some flowering bean varieties can be grown as ornamental plants.
In order to get a rich harvest of beans, it is enough to take into account several recommendations, thanks to which the process of growing beans in open ground will be within the power of even a novice vegetable grower.
Preparing for landing
You can plant beans in the ground different ways- seeds and seedlings.
When growing beans from seeds they will need to be pre-soaked. To do this, the beans are wrapped in a cotton napkin, generously moistened with warm water. In a few days, when the sprouts hatch, the seeds will be ready to be planted in the ground.
To speed up the harvest, beans can be planted in the ground as ready-made seedlings. To do this, hatched beans are planted in small containers with substrate until shoots emerge. After 15–20 days, the seedlings will be ready for planting in the ground.
The soil
For planting beans, it is recommended to choose areas with loose fertile soil, the crop grows poorly on dense clay soils and does not like swampy lowlands. Since beans are a green manure plant, they are often planted to enrich the soil with nitrogen. Wherein the best preceding crops for it are tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers and cabbage. It is not recommended to plant beans in the area where legumes are grown for 3–5 years.
In order for the soil to warm up and “breathe”, 2-3 days before planting it needs to be dug up and thoroughly loosened with a rake. In order to save useful space in the garden, you can plant along the fence climbing beans, bush varieties of crops are grown in beds.
Landing specifics
- The distance between the holes is from 18 to 20 cm.
- Row spacing is from 45 to 50 cm.
- The depth of the beans is approximately 4–5 cm.
After planting, the bed must be watered abundantly. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, beds with crops can be covered with polyethylene or covering material, thereby creating greenhouse conditions.
Care
No major care is required for beans. It is enough to water the plantings in a timely manner, periodically weed the beds and regularly loosen the soil between the rows to ensure air access to the root system of the plant. It is very important to prevent the formation of a dried crust on the soil surface. From time to time, the bushes need to be examined for damage to the crop by diseases and pests. The sooner you can notice their appearance, the more effective the fight against them will be.
To attract pollinating insects to bean beds, it is recommended periodically spray the bushes with sweet water or hang jars of sugar syrup or honey around the perimeter. This procedure helps improve pollination and increase crop yields.
Watering
Beans need to be watered weekly, and before flowering begins, the required volume of water per one square meter is approximately 5–6 l. During the formation and ripening of fruits, the amount of water should be doubled. Competent organization Watering is very important for beans. Insufficient watering can cause flowers and ovaries to fall off, and also negatively affect taste qualities ah harvest. Excess moisture will lead to excessive growth of the leaf mass, which is undesirable during the fruit formation period.
Top dressing
As a rule, beans do not need additional fertilizer. It has enough nutrients left after feeding its predecessor crops.
In case of extremely low fertility, it is allowed to enrich the soil without big amount rotted bird droppings or wood ash.
Diseases and pests
It is very important to identify signs of bean damage by diseases and pests in a timely manner. Beans are most susceptible to fungal infections, such as:
- Anthracnose - appears as brown spots on leaves and stems. Deep lesions filled with pinkish mucus form on the fruits. The disease leads to rotting of the fruits and complete loss of the harvest.
- Root rot - when affected, the plant begins to lag behind in development, sheds leaves and fruit ovaries; the roots and basal neck are covered with a white-pink coating.
- White rot - affects the stems and fruits of beans. A white pathogenic mycelium rapidly develops on their surface.
To combat fungal infections, preparations with a high copper content are successfully used.
The most dangerous bean pests are:
- Bean grain – small brown bug with a bronze tint, laying eggs inside beans. If you miss the deadlines to combat it, there is a risk of losing more than half of the harvest.
- The whitefly is a very small yellowish-white insect that feeds on the sap of unripe beans.
- The melon aphid is a polyphagous pest that eats the leaves and fruits of beans.
To combat these pests, the plant is treated with insecticides. During this period, it is recommended to temporarily stop the procedure for attracting pollinating insects.
If the summer turns out to be damp and rainy, beans can be attacked by slugs. Most effective method The only way to escape these voracious creatures is to collect them by hand. The method is unpleasant, but effective.
Harvest and storage
The timing of the bean harvest directly depends on its variety and the chosen storage method. For example, green beans should be harvested without waiting for it to fully ripen, since it is eaten green together with the pods. Ahead of schedule It is recommended to collect beans for canning and freezing.
Harvesting mature beans requires patience. They are collected gradually as they ripen. You can determine the degree of maturity of the beans by breaking the pod in two: when it is ready for harvest, it breaks easily, and the edges of the break are smooth and fiber-free. Before storing, hulled beans should be dried in the sun or in the oven. Beans are stored in linen bags, in which you need to put a few cloves of garlic or some dill seeds to scare off the bugs that want to feast on the freshly harvested harvest.
Growing green beans in summer cottages is becoming widespread. Not long ago this useful product Only large farms grew. You can buy green pods without any problems - at fresh, in the vegetable departments of supermarkets, or frozen, in the refrigerators of all stores, mainly an imported product. Meanwhile, growing this “green miracle” in the country is not difficult. The most important thing in growing green beans, unlike other legumes, is to harvest on time. Do not leave the pods in the garden too long, making them tough and tasteless.
Beans are rightly considered by biologists to be the oldest cultivated plant on the planet. There are officially three botanical types of beans.
- The shelling bean from which the beans are obtained is characterized by a dense parchment shell.
- Semi-sugar - this type has a parchment shell of medium hardness.
- Sugar, also known as asparagus, in which the parchment shell is completely absent, but green, juicy and soft is present.
In garden culture it is commonly called last view green beans, which are eaten together with the pods. In contrast to shelled varieties, the pods of which are not suitable for food.
Beans can be divided into two more types based on their growth method.
- Curly.
- Bush.
When growing all types of beans, basic agrotechnical standards are observed, which include the following points.
- Beans do not tolerate sandy, acidic or too heavy soils.
- Loves light, humidity, warmth, tolerates drought with difficulty. If a dry period occurs during flowering, the ovary may fall off and there will be no harvest.
- Beans do not like drafts and winds. The plant needs to be grown in a quiet place.
- Sowing is carried out no earlier than the soil warms up to +13°C (May - June).
- Sowing is preceded by the procedure of heating and soaking the seeds.
- The seeds of the plant are buried no more than seven centimeters.
- Seedlings of all varieties need to be loosened and preferably mulched.
- When the stem grows 15 centimeters, the plants need to be hilled.
- For climbing varieties, you need to provide support immediately when planting.
By the way!Not all varieties have the classic green pods. Some fruits are whitish, yellowish and even bright yellow and purple. Therefore, when collecting, it is better to focus not on the color of the fruit, but on the period of expected milk ripeness, which is indicated on the package with the seeds.
Growing
Green beans are heat-loving, but not too much. This is not an exotic representative of the African flora, which needs to be carefully grown as seedlings and planted only when the last of the possible threats frosts. Beans, along with the rest garden crops, you can safely sow directly on the ridges in the spring, subjecting the beans to pre-sowing treatment.
How to process beans before sowing
Bean seeds need to be heated. And the best thing to do is naturally, not on the battery, but on the sun. In industrial agricultural technology, they are heated in special dryers, where the temperature is maintained at +30°C... 35°C. The process takes two days. An acceptable option for summer residents is heating by the sun. To do this, the seeds must be placed on a southern windowsill and kept there for at least a week. After this, the beans must be soaked. Days spent by seeds in warm clean water(changing the water four times) will be enough.
How to prepare a bed for beans
The soil needs a normal alkaline reaction, at least not acidic. Wood ash or dolomite flour will help remove acidity. If you are not sure about the acidity parameters of the soil on the site, still add ash to the hole; it will help the plant develop better.
Sandstones and heavy ones are not suitable clay soils. It is best if the soil is light, fertile, and moderately drained.
An important parameter for green beans, especially climbing varieties, is the absence of wind. The site should be chosen not only to be heated, but also protected from the winds. It is better to place plants in partial shade than in a draft.
Before sowing beans, be sure to rid the bed and surrounding paths of weeds. Excellent predecessors for the crop will be tomatoes, potatoes and different types cabbage
Need I remind you that the area intended for growing beans needs to be dug up and filled with fertilizers in the fall? Mandatory organic matter - traditional 6 kg per square meter, superphosphate - 35 g, potassium chloride - 20 g.
In the spring, it is also necessary to add a complex that has a high potassium content - green beans need this element more than all other garden plants.
Sowing seeds
The seeds are prepared, the ridge is waiting for new “tenants”. When starting sowing, you need to decide what scheme to use.
By the way!The depth of sowing bean seeds depends on the density of the soil. If the mechanical composition is light, it can be buried. If it is heavy, sow as close to the surface as possible. But in all cases, the range of bean sowing depth is 2-7 cm.
Bush varieties are sown in rows (two, three) or in a checkerboard pattern. Holes are made to a given depth. Place two beans in each hole. Try to maintain a distance of about 25 cm between the holes, and between rows: two - 45 cm, three - 35 cm.
Climbing varieties are sown differently. By the way, there are also semi-climbing varieties. Their sowing is carried out in the same way as climbing ones. Before sowing, strong supports are installed on the prepared and treated ridge. They can be of any design and from any available materials. You can bend strong wire into arcs, place U-shaped or X-shaped stakes, pipes, or plastic slats. A mesh frame stretched over a frame is also suitable. The main thing is that the plant’s vines have something to cling to.
The holes are made in close proximity to the support pillars. It is along them that the beans will climb up, towards the light and good harvest. The distance between the holes can be reduced here - 20 cm is enough.
Video - Support - pyramid for beans
Video - How to make a support for beans
Shoots and care
Beans do not sprout for long, despite the hard shell and the impressive size of the seed. A strong sprout emerges from the soil already on the sixth day after sowing. The main thing is the right temperature. For successful germination in the daytime, it should be about +20°C.
Young shoots are sensitive to night cold. That is why, at the slightest threat of minus on the soil, they must be covered with spunbond overnight. And on the eighth - tenth day, all seedlings must be hilled.
Then, after the plants reach the fifteen-centimeter growth mark, they must be re-hilled. And repeat the procedure several times throughout the season, as the soil settles after watering.
Advice!As soon as the lashes of climbing bean varieties grow to a length of two meters, their ends must be pinched. This will increase fruiting.
Green beans of mid-season varieties, with proper care, will begin to bloom massively on the fortieth day from the day of germination. It will take another three weeks for the formation of full-fledged ovaries. And after that - attention! Harvesting of green bean pods begins ten days after the ovaries form. If you miss this moment and leave the pods on the vines for at least a week, their taste will deteriorate significantly.
Fertilizers
In addition to preliminary autumn and spring filling of the soil, green beans will need additional feeding. You will have to feed the crop at least twice more during the growing season - when it enters the budding phase, and at the beginning of the fruiting phase.
Fertilizer – superphosphate mixed with wood ash (15/
50 g per square meter). If available, you can add a complex with a high content of molybdenum, boron and manganese to the fertilizer. If there is no special fertilizer containing these three microelements, ordinary potassium permanganate will help get out of the situation. The plants are watered over the leaves and into the hole with a medium pink solution.
Watering
For green beans, moisture is important; climbing varieties especially suffer from lack of watering. But beans need to be watered intensively and often only during the period of vine forcing and budding. As soon as the ovary begins to form, watering should be done less frequently, but more abundantly, and the soil around the bushes should be mulched.
Advice!To water green beans, experienced gardeners use one secret - put weeds (any weeds after weeding the garden, you can first lightly chop them) into a large barrel standing in the sun and fill it to the top with water. The infusion must stand for seven days. It needs to be stirred from time to time. A week later, a liter of ready-made nutritious herbal infusion is diluted in ten liters of water and watered over the beans. It responds to such hydration with fleshy pods and healthy, powerful stems.
Important Harvest Points
- U early variety Harvesting begins on the 50th day after the first shoots emerge from the soil.
- In mid-season - on the 70th day.
- For late ripening - at 100.
The pods need to be picked in a state of milky ripeness. It is characterized by the following features:
- the pods are not hard, they bend rather than break;
- pod length from 10 to 20 cm (depending on the variety);
- Inside the pod is a green bean, the size of a grain of wheat.
- Harvesting is carried out in stages, every two days.
- Leave those pods that you did not remove in a timely manner for seeds, and in the future, check the vines more carefully.
- Removing the pods stimulates fruiting. This means that the more beans you harvest, the more they will grow.
- Collection can continue until frost.
- The yield per square meter of green beans is two kilograms.
Video - How to grow beans on a plot
Description of green bean varieties
There are many varieties of green beans. Some of them did not take root in summer cottages for various reasons. Others, on the contrary, have gained popularity; amateur gardeners warmly recommend them to each other. Let's look at the most popular ones.
Varieties of green beans
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| One of the early, fifty-day varieties. Bushy and low - up to forty cm. Compact, does not take up much space on the ridge. The pods are emerald green, there are no fibers in them, length – 12 cm, curved shape. The taste is excellent, fresh and sweet. | |
| Also precocious. Curly. One lash forms up to nine pods. Their length is 13 cm. The color is bright green. The shape is straight, the surface is smooth. The variety is not characterized by increased sugar content, but the pods are fleshy and juicy. | |
| It was named so, probably, for the arched, strongly curved shape of the pod, which reminded breeders of the antlers of a deer. Bush variety with mature-colored pods hard cheese. The grains inside are white. Mid-season. Very tasty and nutritious fruits. It is said that by growing this variety, two harvest cycles can be harvested per season. | |
| Bush compact mid-season variety. Grows up to half a meter. It is distinguished by ultra-high productivity. The fruits of this variety are herbaceous green. They have no fibers. They are especially good for freezing and canning, but, of course, they can also be used fresh. | |
| Also bush and also high-yielding variety. Ripening time is average. But the fruits are not green, but bright yellow. The beans are white. The taste is very high. | |
| A climbing variety with many features, but the main one is its pronounced aroma. forest mushrooms. The pods are pale green, even whitish. And the beans inside are pinkish. Dishes prepared from this variety retain the mushroom aroma and have an unusually good taste. | |
| An early ripening, fiberless, climbing variety with delicate fruits of a traditional green color. This variety is distinguished for its disease resistance and high yield. | |
| This green beans also climbs and is late-ripening. Its pods are simply huge - they can grow up to 30 cm. The color and taste are traditional. Productivity is high due to the double mass of long fruits. | |
| Bush variety, with fruits purple. The pods are about 15 cm, very decorative. Due to their unusual color, they are very actively used in canning. | |
| The fruits are formed on the bush. Early – fifty days. The color of the pod is deep yellow. The taste is delicious, soft, slightly oily. There are no fibers. Yields are high. | |
| A mid-season climbing variety, distinguished by twenty-centimeter pods, sparse leaves and vines up to three meters long. The shape of the pod is straight, the color is dull green. High yield. |
Something about green manure properties
Green beans, like any other legume, is the best green manure, which nature came up with to increase the productivity of your plot inexpensively and simple methods. Its roots “pull” nitrogen from the soil closer to themselves. Not only the plant itself, but also nearby plants can feed on it. Therefore, many other crops can be sown between bean rows. You can plant pumpkins, melons, zucchini, and cucumbers in the center between the rows. Along the edges of the ridge the following will do well: peppers, eggplants, white and red cabbage.
And after the harvest is harvested, collect the canes from the supports, or mow the bushes, chop them and bury them in the soil right in the bean bed. On next year you will have a ready-made fertile area with a high nitrogen content for new gardening experiments.
When starting to lay out your garden before the new season, you are thinking about how to more conveniently place all the necessary vegetable crops, where to place a bed with onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, etc. However, in most cases, gardeners do not even remember about planting beans.
But legumes, asparagus and grains are good for the body! Rich in fiber, plant protein, essential vitamins and minerals, this legume undoubtedly deserves a place in your garden. Moreover, planting beans can easily be done along a fence, around a house, between rows of potatoes and cabbage, or under fruit trees and shrubs, without requiring separate beds.
By planting beans on your plot, you will immediately kill two birds with one stone: you will reap a harvest of tasty and healthy beans and at the same time prepare best conditions for growing vegetables next season, because this legume saturates the soil with nitrogen.
Video about growing beans
The choice of location for beans depends on what variety you are going to grow. Bush beans are most conveniently planted in beds or between rows of cabbage and potatoes, while climbing beans will feel great in any place - as long as there is a support nearby that can be plaited (pole, sunflowers, corn, shrubs, trees or a fence).
Preparing soil and bean seeds
Legumes grow best and produce best in fertile, well-drained, light soils. If the soil on your site is clayey, and groundwater are located close, the beans may not grow at all.
To increase the yield of beans, add compost or humus to the ground before planting the seeds; you can additionally use ammonium nitrate as a fertilizer and add a mixture of superphosphate and potassium chloride. Excess nitrogen in the soil will lead to increased growth of green mass in beans, to the detriment of the development of pods.
To increase the yield of beans, compost or humus is added to the ground before planting the seeds.
They begin sowing bean seeds in April-May, but since the seedlings hatch within a week, and frosts in early May are not uncommon, it is recommended to pre-treat the beans before planting the beans. Seed treatment is as follows:
- carefully check the beans for diseased, non-standard and damaged by the grinder and sort out quality seeds;
- to speed up germination, it is better to soak the seeds overnight in melt water (just do not leave the beans in the water for more than 15 hours so that they do not “choke”);
- Before you start planting, immerse the swollen beans for five minutes in a warm aqueous solution of boric acid and ammonium - this will protect the bean seedlings from the nodule weevil.
Planting beans and further plant care
When the air temperature rises to 15 degrees and the likelihood of night frosts subsides, you can begin planting bean seeds. Optimal depth When planting beans in the ground, a depth of five centimeters is considered; planting too deep will lead to slower germination and the likelihood of beans rotting, and planting too shallow will lead to lodging of the seedlings.
When planting semi-climbing and climbing varieties in the garden, place a two-meter trellis
When sowing bush varieties, leave about 20 cm between seeds, the next row is sown at a distance of 40 cm from the previous one, the beans are planted in a checkerboard pattern. It is not advisable to make more than four rows.
When planting semi-climbing and climbing varieties in the garden, place a two-meter trellis by digging two poles and stretching twine or wire between them, and sow the seeds on both sides of the trellis. The distance between the beans is maintained at 30 cm. You can plant climbing beans in nests, lowering five beans into one hole, then instead of a trellis you will need to drive a peg into the ground, around which the plants will subsequently climb. Just don't use plastic or metal support, since the beans will not be able to cling to it.
After sowing the beans, water the bed and compact it reverse side rake. To protect against night frosts, cover the crops with covering material. When seedlings appear, it is recommended to hill them up to give the plants stability.
After sowing the beans, water the bed and compact it with the back of the rake.
Further care for beans:
- Before flowering, the sprouts are watered no more than once a week (excess moisture leads to leaf growth) in dry weather;
- with the appearance of flowers and bean pods, watering is doubled;
- after each watering of beans or rain, the row spacing must be loosened;
- remove weeds as they appear;
- the first feeding with superphosphate is carried out when the first true leaf is formed, the second time the beans are fed with potassium salt during budding;
- When the plants reach two meters in height, they need to be pinched from above to stimulate the appearance of ovaries.
How and when to harvest beans
The taste of the beans is greatly influenced by the time of harvest, so if you want to get tasty beans, do not miss the right time, and try to collect the pods in the morning, while they are saturated with overnight moisture. Bean pods are cut with scissors or abruptly torn off, holding the stem with the other hand.
Video about picking beans
Harvesting beans begins two weeks after the flowers appear and is carried out every two days until all the “blades” are ripe. It is important to consider here in what form are you going to consume the beans? If you are interested in the pods along with the valves, collect them while the valves look green and juicy and are no more than five centimeters long. If you need the beans themselves for cooking, the beans are harvested during the period of milky maturity of the “blades”, when they reach their maximum value and the best taste. Already blackened pods are collected for seeds.
It is important not only correct landing beans and timely harvesting - it is also necessary to properly prepare the beans for storage. To do this, the ripened beans are threshed and dried on paper, after which they are stored in a container with a tightly fitting lid so that the fruits are not spoiled by insects.