Transplantation of adult bushes. When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs How to repot adult bushes

In case of unsuccessful planting, when redeveloping the territory, it is sometimes necessary to transplant grapes to a new place. This is a very plastic culture, adapting well to new conditions. Therefore, with some effort, even an adult fruit-bearing plant can be moved and its yield can be maintained.

When can grapes be transplanted

There are no universal dates when it is better to transplant grapes. The gardener needs to focus on his region and specific climatic conditions.

The optimal time for planting and transplanting is autumn and spring. In autumn, work begins after leaf fall and continues until frost. In the southern regions, where the soil does not freeze in winter, it is permissible to plant during long thaws in January-February.

In the spring, they wait for the soil to thaw. It is important to have time to transplant before the eyes open. In spring, the soil is well saturated with moisture, which plants use for their development.

Important! The earlier the bushes are planted (if available favorable conditions), the better they will get accustomed.

When deciding how to properly transplant grapes without loss to the crop, the gardener must take into account not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the plant.

Methods for transplanting different ages of adult grape bushes

First three years of life young plant considered a seedling. During this period, he is actively forming roots. With age, the old roots thicken, the life potential of the grapes and its ability to regenerate decreases. This means that the older the plant, the worse it takes root in a new place. Nevertheless, even adult bushes 7-10 years old are able to give good harvests after transplant.

How can I transplant an adult grape bush:

with a clod of earth;
with an open root system.

For adult bushes, the first method is optimal - with a clod of earth and an intact root system. However, this is not always feasible without special equipment.

So, depending on the type of soil and climate, the root system of a grape bush penetrates to the following depth:

in a humid cool climate - 20-40 cm;
in the south - 40-120 cm;
on sandy soils - 1.5-3.5 m;
on rocks in the southern regions - 3-5 m and more.

Thus, the task of the grower during transplantation is to preserve the maximum of roots. The older the plant, the larger the earthen ball will be.

One-year-olds, two-year-olds, three-year-olds

Young seedlings are planted from the school on permanent place at the age of 1-3 years. They can be both with a closed root system and with an open one.

In the specialized literature on viticulture, it is advised to do this:

Select 1-2 most developed shoots on the seedling, remove the rest.
Cut the selected shoots, leaving 2-3 eyes on each.
Remove all roots located above the first or second node from the heel. This should stimulate the development of the main heel roots.
Shorten the calcaneal roots to 20-25 cm when planting in holes and up to 5-7 cm under a hydraulic drill.

Features of transplanting grapes at different times of the year

When planning how to transplant grapes to another place in autumn or spring, the gardener proceeds from the climate of the region and the type of root system. planting material(closed - ZKS or open - OKS).

Transplanting seedlings in autumn

At autumn transplant the undoubted advantage is that in the spring the bush starts growing early and does not lag behind the rest in development. This means that in the first year after the operation, you can get a small harvest.

If you plan to transplant grapes from ZKS in the fall, be prepared that the plant will not have time to take root in a new place and will not survive the winter. To avoid this, you need to carefully mulch the soil around the seedling and make a more solid shelter.

As an option, in areas with little snowy winters and possible frosts, it is recommended to dig seedlings with ZKS in the fall, and plant them only in the spring, organizing a cool winter for them in the basement or cellar. Bushes with ACS are transplanted in the fall.

Differences in transplanting in spring and summer

With a spring transplant, it is likely that the bush will get used to new conditions for a long time, it will start growing late and, as a result, the vine will not have time to mature. Harvest with this method of transplantation will have to wait longer.

Important! Planting vegetative grapes in unheated soil will most likely lead to the death of the root system, and hence the entire bush.

The undoubted advantage of spring planting is that the pit for the plant is prepared well in advance, even in summer or autumn. During the winter months, all the fillers brought into the pit are compacted and create a more uniform soil.

In summer, transplanting adult bushes is undesirable. During the growing season, the plant will spend a lot of energy on restoring the roots to the detriment of the development of the ground part and may wither. Young vegetative seedlings with a closed root system, which can be transplanted without damaging the roots, are moved to a new place in the summer.

How to transplant grapes

In general, the procedure for transplanting grapes to a new place does not differ from the usual planting. Only one operation is added - excavation.

How to dig bushes

The older the plant, the harder it is to dig it out with the entire root system. Procedure:

They dig a bush at a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk, while trying not to damage the roots of neighboring plants.
Carefully expose the roots. If they go deep into the ground, cut off. At this stage, the main thing is to save the heel and the main roots coming from it.
If there is a physical possibility, they grab a bush right with a clod of earth and transfer it onto a sheet of metal, a tarpaulin or into a wheelbarrow, with which they drag the plant to a new planting site.
So that the lump does not fall apart, you can wrap it with a piece of cloth and bandage it.
If the bush will be transplanted with an open root, gently shake the ground on the roots with your hands or a stake, completely exposing them.

Novice gardeners doubt whether it is necessary to water the plant before transplanting. Watering contributes to the fact that the earth does not crumble and keeps a lump. If you want to clean the roots, you do not need to pre-water the bush.

An interesting way to dig a bush with a hydraulic drill:

The soil around the bush is well worked out with a hydraulic drill to the state of slurry.
Then all the slurry is scooped out, leaving the roots intact.
If there is no hydraulic drill, the bush is dug in and watered until the soil is saturated.

Planting material preparation

Before or after transplantation, regardless of the age of the bush above-ground part need to be shortened. 2-3 annual shoots are left on the plant. They are cut into 2-3 buds closer to the beginning of the sleeve. If it is planned to update the entire aerial part, it is cut into a black head.

Planting grapes in a new place

A new place for the bush is prepared in advance, at least a month in advance, and even better, six months in advance. The depth of planting and its method depend on:

climate,
type of soil on the site,
the possibility of shelter for the winter,
snow depth and other factors.

Traditionally, in industrial vineyards, bushes are planted in pits or under a hydraulic drill. The latter method is only suitable for young seedlings with a shortened root system.

in the European part - 45-50 cm;
on irrigated fertile soils Central Asia- 55-60 cm;
on sandy soils - 60-65 cm.

However, in the amateur viticulture of Russia in different regions, their own methods have been established:

in the south, where the soil warms up well and dries quickly, they are planted in large, pre-fertilized pits to a depth of 40-50 cm;
in the Moscow region, the method of planting in raised ridges to a depth of 30-40 cm is gaining popularity;
in areas of northern viticulture, for example, in the Urals, grapes are planted in trenches to provide bushes with good shelter in winter and quick warming in summer.

In areas with poor soil (sand, stone), deep pits 1x1x1 m are made for planting, which are filled with plant residues, rotted manure or humus, and mineral fertilizers. On black soil, there is no such need. There it is enough to dig a hole according to the size of the root system and plant a seedling to a depth of no more than 40-45 cm.

Thus, there is no universal landing scheme suitable for all regions. Each grower chooses for himself the one that meets the conditions of his site. When transplanting an adult bush, the same rules apply as for a normal planting, which we will discuss below.

Instructions for transplanting grapes

With a clod of earth and a root

The sequence of operations:

The landing pit is prepared in proportion to the earthen coma.
Pour a couple of buckets of water into it.
Lower the bush into the hole and remove the wrapping fabric.
The gaps between the earthen clod and the walls of the pit are gradually covered with earth, periodically watering.
When the pit is completely covered with earth, form trunk circle and once again water the bush abundantly with the addition of a root growth stimulator.

Open root system

Boarding order:

A hole is prepared in advance with a depth of 15-20 cm more than the length of the underground stem of the seedling and watered with water.
At the bottom, 10-25 cm of fertile soil, mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers, are poured.
Before planting, the roots of the seedling are cut to 25-30 cm and dipped in a creamy mash (per 1 part cow dung 2 parts clay).
A mound is made in the center of the pit, on which a seedling is placed.
The roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
A pit with a seedling is covered with earth to half and watered.
Cover with earth to surface level.
Form a near-stem circle and water abundantly.

Important! In the zone of shelter viticulture, the base of the shoots after planting should be 1-2 cm below the soil level.

Errors when transplanting grapes

If the seedling does not take root and grows poorly, the features of transplanting adult grapes may not have been taken into account.

Rcommon mistakes:

Late planting in spring. The plant needs time to adapt to new conditions and restore the roots. In addition, in spring the soil dries out quickly and a seedling with ACS may not have enough soil moisture to start growing.
Early planting in spring. In cold soil, the roots of a vegetative seedling with ZKS may die off.
Too much root pruning. Having lost heel roots, an adult bush cannot restore them and receive proper nutrition.
Landing in a dry hole. A dry layer between the roots and soil moisture prevents the beginning of root growth.
Attempt to collect a full-fledged crop in the year of transplantation. Excessive load of the bush leads to the fact that the plant spends its own resources without getting enough nutrition.

Care of grapes after transplantation

In the first year after transplanting to a new place, the bush needs increased care and attention.

Caring for transplanted grapes

We must be prepared that the plant will not immediately recover and will give full yields. The inflorescences formed in the first year are cut off completely so that the bush directs all its forces to restore the roots.

watering

The bush is watered in the same way as the rest of the vineyard: by land or through a pipe. Choosing the second method, gardeners should take into account the depth of the root layer. For example, if the roots do not penetrate further than 40 cm, and the pipe is dug deeper into the ground, the bush does not receive water when watering.

Depending on soil moisture, 3-5 waterings are carried out per season, every 2 weeks in dry weather and 3-4 weeks in wet weather. At early varieties watering is completed in mid-July, in late ones - in mid-August.

Every 15-20 days after rain or watering loosen the soil around the bush. This keeps the soil from drying out and allows air to flow to the roots.

top dressing

Fertilizers filled in the pit during planting are enough for the first 2 years. During this period, additional feeding is carried out if signs of a lack of elements are visible.

Frost protection

Bushes are prepared for winter in different ways, depending on the region of cultivation:

cover the ground with a mulch layer;
spud;
protect the bushes with non-woven material;
cover seedlings with soil.

Disease and pest control

During the season, several sprays of Bordeaux liquid from mildew are carried out. In general, the transplanted bush is treated in the same way as the rest of the vineyard.

Important! It is advisable to use reduced doses of drugs on a weakened bush.

Results

Adult grape bushes are able to take root in a new place at almost any age. The gardener himself must decide on the feasibility of transplanting due to the large labor costs of the operation. If you want to save a valuable variety, before transplanting, it is recommended to prepare cuttings from a bush or propagate it with branches.

There is no definite answer to the question of when to transplant a berry crop. Some gardeners argue that there is only one option - transplanting currants in the fall, when the leaves are absent, the movement of the juice slows down, and the plant is ready for wintering.

The need to transplant currants arises in the following cases:

In each case listed, the rules for transplantation and the procedure for working are similar.

Before answering the question of when it is possible to transplant currants, you should first choose a new place for the shrub. This berry culture loves sunlight and warm, so shaded areas cannot be used. If there is little heat and light, the number of berries will decrease, and the bush will be susceptible to various diseases. It is not recommended to lower the roots of the plant into very moist soil - it will not grow. It is better to choose a moderately moist chernozem containing loam impurities, in a pit, if possible, make drainage.

This berry culture loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used.

It is not desirable that the shrub is on the second tier. Its leaves are susceptible to diseases, and the fungus from most berry and fruit crops can harm the crop. Transplantation can be performed on partially sandy soil - the bush grows and develops better in it. Carefully dig up the place where currants will grow in the future, remove all debris, weeds and roots of old plants.

Currant transplant rules

If you decide to transplant a berry crop, carefully prepare for this process. The yield of the shrub depends on the correctness of your actions.

In the selected area, pits should be dug, placing them at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. fall asleep inside fertile soil, humus, potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash. The prepared soil should be nutritious and loose enough. To transplant red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the soil, and arrange drainage in the form of a small layer of rubble at the bottom of the pit. The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

Berry culture needs to be prepared for transplantation: cut young shoots in half and cut old branches to the ground. The bush is carefully dug up and taken out of the ground. You do not need to pull on the shoots - this can ruin the roots or branches. If it was not possible to extract the plant the first time, it is dug in again for one and a half or two bayonets of a shovel.

Berry culture needs to be prepared for transplantation

If the bush is healthy, it can be removed along with a clod of earth and immediately transplanted. But if it is sick, carefully inspect the roots, remove damaged and dry ones, remove the larvae of pests and insects that live in the root system of the plant. After that, treat the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Pour plenty of water into the hole to soil mix looked like a liquid substance. Immerse the shrub in the slurry and, holding it in weight, sprinkle it with dry soil five to eight centimeters above the root collar. Water again to compact the soil around the roots. The distance between the bushes should be at least one hundred and fifty centimeters so that they do not obscure each other. A transplanted plant needs regular care: regular watering, spraying and nutritious top dressing.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance.

How to transplant currants in autumn

For all gardeners, the question is when is it better to transplant currants in order to quickly get a good harvest. In the northern regions, transplantation is advisable in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature rises above zero. But if the bushes have already begun to grow, it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn.

The procedure requires some patience, since the shrub must shed its leaves, and the sap flow must stop in the shoots. For middle lane the optimal period is mid-late October. In the north - two or three weeks later. If you move the bushes early, the currant can confuse the seasons and grow and throw out the buds. In winter, they freeze and weaken the plant. During dry and warm autumn, transplanted shrubs require constant watering.

Winter shelter is a must. Three buckets of old humus mixed with leaves of ornamental trees can be poured into the base of the bush. By spring, a fertile and loose layer of soil forms around the plant, in which you can arrange a watering bowl. Shrubs planted in autumn get used to a new place during the winter and take root to give a harvest in summer. If currant bushes are transplanted in the spring, they take root for a long time and give berries only after a year.

Transplant in the spring

During this period, rooted cuttings are transplanted - they are transferred to a permanent place from the nursery trench. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, in the spring it will be branches with two or three leaves.

If the plant was cut from cuttings in the spring, well-developed bushes with two or three shoots should form by the time of transplantation. They are very easy to transplant, but the plant must be dug up with a clod of earth to minimize the risk of damage to the roots. Shrubs transplanted in spring require proper care and good watering throughout the summer. Adult shrubs are transplanted as early as possible - in the middle or end of March.

IN summer period currant transplantation is not desirable, but possible. Adult bushes need to be dug up with an earthen clod - it should be as large as possible. For carrying to a new place, basins, buckets and boxes are used. They need to be selected taking into account the size of the roots. After planting a shrub in a prepared hole, water it thoroughly for several days.

For carrying to a new place, basins, buckets and boxes are used.

Container seedlings can be transplanted at any time of the year. It is important to provide them with good watering, top dressing and fertilizer using ammonium nitrate. Immediately after planting, the site must be mulched using peat, compost, humus or sand - they will help retain moisture. If the planting pits are prepared with high quality, top dressing will be needed only after a year.

Regardless of the time of the procedure, in transplanted bushes, it is necessary to cut off as much of the vegetative mass as possible, and leave two or three buds for reproduction.

If the planting pits are prepared with high quality, top dressing will be needed only after a year.

Otherwise, the plant will slow down and pick up pace for a long time.

Abundant watering is required. The first two weeks, you can safely arrange a swamp, that is, keep the roots in the water. The longer this process takes, the higher the probability of getting a rich harvest. But you can not keep the roots in water for more than three weeks, as they can rot.

In the first year, the crown should be properly formed so that the overgrowth is at a minimum, and all branches stretch upwards. Further care is carried out in the fall: all old branches are cut out, the bush is directed in the right direction.

Blackcurrant transplantation is possible in autumn, spring and even summer. He optimal time for such work - mid-October. Therefore, if you want to collect a lot of berries, follow the above recommendations.

Sooner or later reforms begin in the garden. Something is writhing, and something is urgently moving to a new place. How to transplant shrubs and let them survive the move minimal harm for health? By the way, moving can even be beneficial if the soil is depleted and yields have declined.

How to transplant a currant bush

transplant currants better in autumn, since in the spring the kidneys start growing early and you may not have time to transplant. It is possible to transplant in autumn until the very frosts, and often after them, if the weather is not colder than -5 ° C.

Two to three weeks before transplantation, holes are dug under bushes with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a depth of 30-40 cm. They are placed at a distance of at least 1-1.5 m from each other. A mixture of fertile soil and fertilizers is poured into each pit: one bucket of compost or humus, 40 g of potassium sulfate and 150-200 g of superphosphate.

The bushes are prepared for transplanting by cutting off all the old branches and shortening the young ones by half. A currant bush at a distance of 30 cm is dug to a depth of two bayonets of a shovel, then chopped central roots and take out a bush from a hole with a clod of earth.

Three or four buckets of water are poured into the prepared seat. After it is absorbed, the plants are placed on a planting mound and covered with fertile soil. Barren scatter in the aisles. The final touch is abundant watering.

Gooseberry and wild rose bushes are transplanted in the same way.

How to transplant a vine bush

If seedlings are best planted in the spring, then adult bushes move to a new place in the fall. It is necessary to be in time before the onset of frost, as they can damage the roots of the grapes.

Two sleeves are left on the bush and each one has one young vine, which is shortened to two or three eyes. After that, they retreat from the bush 50 cm and dig the bush in a circle on two bayonets of a shovel. Then they cut off the central roots and remove the plant from the pit.

One or two buckets of water are poured into a pre-prepared pit and a planting mound is poured from fertile land. Bushes are planted so that young vines are only slightly above the soil level. This will rejuvenate the bush.

Everyone falls asleep with earth and compacts it well, after which everything is watered abundantly. In the first year, all inflorescences are removed from the bush. On the second - a third of the inflorescences. Only then the plants will get stronger and begin to bear fruit normally.

How to transplant a raspberry bush

Raspberries quickly deplete the soil, so they try to transplant it to a new bed every five to six years. Like other shrubs, it is best to endure in the fall. So that the yield does not decrease, plant it after cabbage, cucumbers or tomatoes. Definitely in a sunny spot.

The first step is to prepare a place where raspberries will grow by removing weeds and digging up the soil. The diameter of the pit is 40 cm, the depth is 30-40 cm, the distance between the bushes is 50 cm. 40 g of potassium sulfate and 70 g of superphosphate can be added to each pit. But in order not to burn the roots, it is better to apply these fertilizers later - in the summer - in the form of dressings.

For planting, the most powerful plants with stems of at least 1 cm in diameter are selected. They dig them up with a clod of earth and transfer them to a new place. After planting, the plants are pruned, leaving two full-fledged buds above the soil level. The bushes are set in the center of the pits and covered with earth. It is important not to bury the plant when planting. What is normal for grapes and currants is undesirable for raspberries. After planting, the plants are watered and mulched with humus.

New from users

Climatic zones of the Russian Federation

Do you have new additions to your garden? Try to have "local varieties" settled in you, and not those that ...

Who can eat your eggplant

The most famous eggplant pest is the Colorado potato beetle. He used to eat it much faster than potatoes. Nose...

Garden passions: spots began to appear on the trees...

Scab of apple and pear It so happened that at first my garden consisted of only apple trees. The biggest problem was...

Most popular on the site

01/18/2017 / Veterinarian

BUSINESS PLAN for breeding chinchillas from P...

IN modern conditions economy and the market as a whole for starting a business...

01.12.2015 / Veterinarian

If you compare people who sleep completely naked under the covers and those ...

11/19/2016 / Health

Lunar-sowing calendar gardener-gardener...

11/11/2015 / Kitchen garden

Many gardeners make the mistake of letting gooseberry bushes grow like...

11.07.2019 / People's Reporter

Under cucumbers, it is best to cook not only the holes, but also the whole bed ....

04/30/2018 / Garden

“Dead” is, of course, very cruel. But how does she...

07.06.2019 / People's Reporter

Only the laziest gardener doesn't want to reap a second harvest from a free...

19.07.2019 / People's Reporter

A magical mixture for the expulsion of aphids with...

All sorts of sucking-gnawing on the site are not our comrades. You need to break up with them...

26.05.2019 / People's Reporter

The FIVE Biggest Mistakes When Growing...

To get good grape harvests, you must follow simple rules ...

05/28/2019 / Grapes

A currant transplant may be required for many reasons. The most banal reason is moving to new possessions. But the change in the place of growth of the currant bush within the same area is included in mandatory list taking care of her. If you do it at the wrong time or incorrectly, then there is a risk of spoiling or losing your favorite fruit bush. We will tell in the article all the rules of transplantation, we will give advice to novice gardeners.

Why is it necessary to transplant blackcurrant to a new place

What are the reasons for relocating a shrub to a new place, in addition to moving to another personal plot:

for the purpose of breeding the variety you like;
with some diseases, if the fight against them on the spot was not successful;
when overgrown bushes clearly interfere with the full development of each other;
level change ground water in the direction of decreasing the depth of their location;
shading that has appeared due to an increase in the crown of a nearby tree, overgrown grapes or a built object;
scheduled renewal of the shrub after a certain age;
transplantation to fertile soil with depleted and accumulated toxic waste products of this plant species.

General requirements for a new location

The plant, with a properly organized transplant, in most cases takes root well.

The rules for choosing a place for transplanting a bush are the same as for the initial planting. What does the currant bush like:

Sunny place. Shading is allowed only at lunchtime, when the sun's rays are very active.
Flat ground surface. Moisture is less retained on a hill and there is usually a strong wind effect, which creates unfavorable conditions for the development of shrubs. The lowlands are too scary high level groundwater, which can lead to rotting of the root system.
Weed free land. This is especially true for grass with a superficial intertwining root system. Read also the article: → "".
Remote neighborhood with others fruit crops because it is quite susceptible to many diseases.
Soils with weak acidity or with a neutral pH level. Light loam is preferred. Otherwise, the desired composition and structure will have to be achieved with the help of fertilizers, drainage and mulching. (see → )

What season is better to choose for a transplant

Transplanting currants in autumn and watering around the soil

There is no categorical answer to the question about the most favorable time of the year for this season. Can win both autumn and spring transplant. The main criterion is the condition of the bush. Should it still be in a “dormant” state: in the spring before the buds appear and growth begins, in the fall after the leaves fall.

Tip #1 The choice of season should also be chosen depending on geography. In the northern regions, where winters are very frosty, it is better to transplant in the spring.

It is even possible to prepare new plant cuttings from autumn for further spring planting. In temperate climates, autumn is preferred. In case of urgent need, it is possible to transfer currants to a new place in the summer. In this case, to reduce stress and trauma to the plant, it is dug up with big ball earth, which remains on the roots and during further landing. In the future, it is necessary to carefully cast the bush with water.

What are the features of the autumn transplant

Early, when the weather could be predicted even by natural phenomena, it was considered better to plant and change the place of plant growth in the fall. This is still relevant, but with a careful study of the forecast. Let's take a look at a few special things about autumn time.

What is important to remember	Why
Recommended transplant time end of September - beginning of October	The active growth of the plant ends, the processes of movement of the juice slow down, the foliage falls, so the effect of stress will be minimal.
In winter, the bush needs shelter	The weather is now unpredictable, even plants planted long before the expected frosts may not survive the winter. For example, frost can strike unexpectedly without the presence of a snow cover that protects the plant's roots from the cold. Shelter can be created by . You can also use covering material in the form of a film:,.
Currants planted in autumn can give a small harvest the next summer.	A timely planted plant will take root before the first frost and survive the adaptation process. Therefore, with the onset of the first heat, it will begin active growth and development.
Watering in winter	In the case of a dry autumn, the plant should be well watered before winter, this is done in October.

Tip #2 Do not use cut grass, branches or tops from vegetable plants. There is a risk that rodents can take root here, which will destroy the roots of the bush.

What is the difference between spring currant transplant

Holding this event in the spring is considered rather forced. Although many gardeners find that after winter, the plants experience less stress from handling them in any way, since there is no further effect on them low temperatures. Let's see what features a spring transplant of a shrub has.

Recommendations	Addition
Landing should be carried out as soon as the soil warms up a little. Exemplary temperature regime the surface layer of the earth should be +5. You need to have time before the start of budding and active growth.	If you do not meet this period, then it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn or next spring. Or implement it with recommendations for the summer season.
It is best to replant in the spring the bushes formed by branches from last year or rooted cuttings that have been stored all winter in the cellar or greenhouse.	In this case, less time will be spent on rooting and the plant will grow faster. You can reduce stress by transferring a seedling bush without freeing the root from a clod of earth.
Abundant watering	If autumn plant after transplantation, it is saturated with moisture all winter due to snow cover, then here it is necessary to create the most acceptable conditions for engraftment with the help of irrigation. Transplanted shrubs for the first time it is better to water room temperature or heated in the sun.

🎥 Video lesson "How to transplant a currant bush in autumn and spring"

Detailed tips and step-by-step instruction how to transplant currant bushes in late autumn and in early spring ⇓.

Preparing a new place for a shrub and transplanting itself

After choosing a place according to light parameters and indicators of humidity, preliminary soil preparation is necessary. If possible, it is necessary to start it 2-3 weeks before planting.

Preparing a new place for shrubs and digging the soil

What a full-fledged preparation of a new place should look like:

Dig and clear the ground of grass and weed roots. Smooth out upper layer soil.
Dig up required amount holes with a diameter of 40 * 40 cm for young bushes. To transplant an older plant, a hole is dug in order to place in it the entire clod of earth with which it will be dug. A certain depth of -30-50 cm is also observed, depending on the age of the plant. If you have to transplant several shrubs, you can dig one trench. But the distance between plants must be maintained at least 1-1.5 meters.

According to some new planting methods, a more dense location within 0.7 m is assumed. This is relevant if it is necessary to save space or during the subsequent formation of the bole.

If the soil is heavy, it is necessary to organize drainage. This can be done by placing some crushed stone, sand or shards on the bottom of the hole.
Approximately 2/3 of the pit is filled with earth mixed with compost and humus. From fertilizers, currant loves phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen. The rate of introduced minerals is calculated based on the recommendations indicated on the packages. If you make any shifts from these norms, then only in a smaller direction. But it is worth considering that potassium should be without the admixture of chlorine. Read also the article: → "". At hyperacidity ash, chalk, slaked lime, dolomite are introduced into the soil. It should be remembered that the ash is also rich in mineral composition, so industrial fertilizers are applied in smaller quantities.
It is important to properly dig a bush from the old location. To do this, the plant is dug in a circle to a depth of 40-50 cm. The diameter of the digging is maintained according to the width of the ground part of the plant. Carefully, picking up with a shovel, the bush, together with a clod of earth, is pulled out of the pit. Don't pull on upper part, it is better to dig with a shovel if it is difficult to pull out. Otherwise, you can damage the root system.
Before planting, 1-2 buckets of water are poured into the prepared hole.
It is recommended to lower the bush in landing pit along with an earthen clod. But if the plant is sick, the roots should be soaked for subsequent cleaning from the ground, or gently shake off. Inspect them with the removal of diseased and damaged parts. For disinfection, it can be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate.

For better rooting, the hole can be additionally watered with root before planting.

The bush descends into the very slurry and is covered with a dug-out layer of soil a few cm (about 5-7) above the root collar.
The ground part of the plant is processed with the cutting of dried and damaged shoots and shortening of the branches by about half.
The top layer is preferably mulch. It can be peat, fallen leaves or needles, special material, freshly cut grass.
1-2 buckets of water are poured again.

Since the fertilizers have been applied to the soil itself, there is no need to water the bush after planting. Otherwise, you can burn the root system. In the future, it is recommended to carry out the following processing to improve fertility: cutting weeds with a sharp bayonet device at a depth of 2-3 cm. This will inhibit the root system of the grass, and the upper part, drying and rotting, will create additional nutrition for the soil and serve as mulch.

Gardeners who do not welcome the introduction of purchased mineral fertilizers, you can advise top dressing with ashes. It is recruited from under the conflagration of dried weeds and trees. For each currant bush in diameter, maintaining a distance of about 15-20 cm from the shoots where the feeding roots are located, about half a liter jar is added.

The procedure is carried out in the spring, since the introduction of any mineral fertilizers into autumn period further goes deeper with melt waters, and become inaccessible to the root system. And in winter time the plant is in a dormant state and does not need additional nutrition.

Frequently asked questions about transplanting blackcurrant

Question number 1. Is it possible to transplant 3-5 year old currant bushes or is it better to cut them?

Can. You need to dig them out with a large clod of earth and drag them on a substrate to a new landing site. It is good to deepen and cut off the upper part. Organize abundant watering after transplantation.

Question number 2. Is it possible to transplant young seedlings in place of uprooted old currant bushes?

It is advisable to leave this place for other cultures that are not similar to it in classification. And for new seedlings, it is better to take a new place. This will help to avoid overworking the soil and infection with the diseases that exist in this place, which are characteristic of this crop.

Currant that needs transplanting

Question number 3. What plants will be favorable in the neighborhood for blackcurrant?

Around the bush or at a short distance, you can plant onions and garlic. They will protect the bushes from many pests and diseases. But gooseberries, raspberries, red currants are best placed away. It is also not recommended to plant it under fruit trees.

Question number 4. Is it necessary to spud bushes transplanted in autumn?

After planting, you can spud transplanted bushes for greater insulation. But in early spring it is necessary to level this embankment. Since the plant that has begun to grow will begin to take lateral roots into the ground sprinkled on the trunks. Behind summer season the upper raised soil layer will dry out, which will lead to the death of surface roots or their further freezing in winter.

Question number 5. May not be cut ground part transplanted bush?

Mistakes that happen when transplanting blackcurrant

Mistake #1. Transplanting a bush to the same depth at which it was in its last place.

When planting a plant in a new place, it is necessary to deepen it 5-7 cm more than in the previous place.

Mistake #2. Little attention to watering the plant.

After transplantation, the shrub needs a large amount of water to restore the plant and improve the subsequent yield. It should not be in a puddle, but the ground should always be damp.

Mistake #3. Applying a large amount of fertilizer to achieve better plant growth and yield.

Excess fertilizers applied in excess of the norms indicated on the packages will not improve the survival of the plant and the yield. They can only harm the plant.

When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

End of summer - beginning of autumn - good time for planting and transplanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and successfully overwinter, you need to follow some regulations.

Plant plants with an open root system from the first decade of April to the second decade of May and from the second decade of August to the first decade of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.
When planting, cut off inflorescences and part of the leaves from plants, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and loss of moisture.
Digging and landing in a new place is desirable to carry out in one day.
After planting, transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.
Do not plant plants together with the container, carefully remove the container without destroying the lump.
Do not deepen the root neck of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?

Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth, approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "landing large-sized".

It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.

When boarding and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system must be observed high humidity in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root system so that small overgrown roots do not dry out. root system it needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to prune the aerial parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root neck in order to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest rates of survival are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After that, the plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting for all crops, a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to transplant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. Open root system coniferous plants practically do not implement, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, the plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.