The main methods of preparing seeds for sowing seedlings with a description of all the most important stages of the procedures: heating the seeds, disinfecting the seeds, treating the seeds with microelements, soaking the seeds, hardening the seeds, cooling the seeds, panning the seeds, bubbling the seeds, sowing the seeds on paper.
The most effective ways to prepare seeds for sowing with a description of all the most important steps
Methods for preparing seeds for sowing are different depending on the culture. Many diseases vegetable crops, especially bacterial, fungal and viral, are transmitted through seeds. To protect plants from diseases, the seeds are disinfected before sowing.
- Warming up the seeds;
- Seed disinfection;
- The most available microfertilizers, the concentration of the seed treatment solution;
- Seed treatment with microelements;
- soaking seeds;
- seed hardening;
- Cooling seeds;
- Coating of seeds;
- Seed sparging;
- Sowing seeds on paper.
Warming up the seeds
Heating disinfects the seeds, promotes the appearance of fast and friendly shoots, increases the yield early harvest.
- Dry full-weight seeds of cucumbers and tomatoes are heated in a drying or oven at 60°C for 3 hours.
- They are scattered in a thin layer on a wire mesh or baking sheet (laying paper under them), mixed several times, and the temperature is monitored during the entire heating time.
Cucumber seeds can also be heated in a more affordable way:
- hanging them in a gauze bag near the stove or radiator.
- But this must be done one and a half to two months before sowing, the temperature in the room should be above 20 ° C.
- It is especially necessary to warm up the seeds of cucumbers if they are one-year-old (crop of the previous year), as well as seeds grown and sown in more northern regions.
A witty and simple method of warming up, proposed by an amateur:
- He uses a cone-shaped bucket, at the bottom of which he places a table lamp.
- Places above it wooden cross with a stretched metal mesh with small cells.
- He pours seeds on it and puts a thermometer.
- The bucket is covered with a colander, leaving a gap for ventilation.
- From above closes with a warm scarf.
- To gradually increase the temperature during the first hour, a 25 W light bulb is used, and the next two hours with a power of 60 W.
Seed disinfection
Heated seeds of cucumbers and tomatoes are disinfected:
- The easiest way to do this is in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (1 g of the drug per half a glass of water) for 20 minutes, followed by thorough washing in clean water.
- The seeds of zucchini, squash, pumpkin are also disinfected.
Some lovers disinfect tomato seeds in undiluted aloe juice (24 hours). The seeds are not washed. Before extracting the juice, aloe leaves are kept in a dark room for 5-6 days at 2°C. As a result of this treatment, the plants develop faster, do not get sick, the fruits are larger, and the yield is higher.
Some lovers do it differently - they disinfect tomato seeds in a solution:
- potassium permanganate 10 g,
- boric acid 2 g
- blue vitriol 1 g per 10 liters of water for 15 minutes, followed by mandatory washing in clean water.
Tomato plants after such seed treatment are not affected by diseases.
The most available microfertilizers, the concentration of the solution for seed treatment:
| Microfertilizer | Solution concentration(in grams per 10 liters of water) | culture |
| Boric acid | 2 | Cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots, beets, celery, parsley, cauliflower, radishes, onions |
| Potassium permanganate | 2 | Carrots and other root vegetables |
| —— | 1 | Onion |
| drinking soda | 50 | Cucumbers, tomatoes |
| sodium carbonate | 80 | Carrot, parsley |
| —— | 100 | Beet |
| blue vitriol | 2 | Cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, luxelery |
| —— | 5 | Carrot, parsley |
| manganese sulfate | 20 | Beets, carrots |
| —— | 10 | Tomatoes, onions |
| Zinc sulfate | 20 | Cucumbers, beets, carrots |
| methylene blue | 3 | Cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots, parsley, beets, celery, onions |
| —— | 170ml | cucumbers |
| succinic acid | 200ml | Tomatoes |
After disinfection, the seeds are treated with microelements or soaked in water.
Seed treatment with microelements
This technique also increases and accelerates the flow of the crop:
- To do this, heated, disinfected and washed seeds of cucumbers and tomatoes are soaked in a solution of several or only one of the trace elements.
- The concentration of solutions and the duration of treatment are not the same and depend on the culture.
- Dissolve fertilizers containing trace elements in water with a temperature of 40-45°C.
- Seeds are immersed in the solution while it is warm.
- Seeds of cucumbers in any solution are kept for 12 hours, other crops - 24 hours.
After disinfection in potassium permanganate, we recommend that lovers keep the seeds for a day in a solution of a mixture of trace elements (0.2 g of boric acid and 0.5 g of zinc sulfate and copper sulfate are dissolved in 1 liter).
Who does not have microfertilizers, can be used wood ash containing over 30 batteries, needed by plants, including many trace elements.
- To do this, dissolve 2 tablespoons of ash in 1 liter of warm water and leave for a day, stirring occasionally.
- Seeds in a gauze bag are immersed in a filtered infusion and kept: onions and carrots - 6, other crops - 3 hours.
Soaking the seeds
The seeds of most vegetable crops are soaked before sowing. Do this in a clean bowl, filling them with water so that it covers the seeds.
The duration of soaking seeds is different:
- seeds of carrots, tomatoes, onions, parsley, beets are kept in water for up to two days;
- peas, cabbage, radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, lettuce - 10-12 hours.
During the day, the water is changed 2-3 times. During soaking, the seeds should only swell.
- Swollen seeds are either sown or germinated under the same conditions as in determining their germination.
- Germination of black onion seeds can be accelerated if they are kept for 8 hours in water heated to 40 ° C.
- To prevent the water from cooling down, hot water is periodically added to it.
- Wet, swollen seeds are sown only in moist soil.
seed hardening
Many amateurs also harden the seeds of cucumbers and tomatoes to increase the cold resistance of plants and get an early harvest.
- To do this, heated, disinfected seeds, soaked in water or treated with one of the trace elements, are kept in wet (previously scalded with boiling water) sawdust or sand at 20-25 ° C until completely swollen (single pecking).
- The approximate time for cucumbers is one day, for tomatoes - three.
- After that, the tomato seeds are kept for three days at -1-3 ° C in the refrigerator, glacier, you can bury the seeds in the snow.
According to our data, the best results are obtained by hardening swollen cucumber seeds with variable positive temperatures - 6 hours at 18-20°C and 18 hours at 0-2°C for 5-7 days only for seeds of low germination.
Seeds that have undergone hardening can be sown under film shelters and in open ground a few days earlier than usual, without fear of a short-term drop in temperature. This also applies to seedlings grown from hardened seeds.
But you need to know that when growing seedlings, one seed hardening is not enough. To improve plant resistance to low temperatures, you need to harden the seedlings during the entire period of cultivation before planting it in the ground.
Cooling down seeds
Cooling down seeds- one of , accelerating the yield of products and increasing the yield of carrots, parsley, onions, beets.
- For this, for example, carrot seeds 2 weeks before sowing, soak in water taken in an amount equal to the dry weight of the seeds, leave in a room with a temperature of 15-22 ° C and mix after 4 hours.
- When the seeds dry, they are sprayed with water.
- When about 5% of the seeds have hatched, which is observed in carrots on the fourth or fifth day, they are taken out into the glacier or buried in the snow so that the seeds are at 0 ° C before sowing.
- Every 2-3 days they are mixed, and before sowing, for flowability, they are slightly dried.
- With this preparation of seeds, seedlings appear faster and more amicably, which allows you to start weeding earlier by 3-4 days, and picking carrots per bunch - by 10-15 days.
Coating of seeds
Coating of seeds consists in enveloping the seeds with a nutrient mixture, which creates a protective and nourishing shell, increases their size and gives them an oval or rounded shape.
- Seeds of all crops can be coated, but more often seeds of carrots, parsley, onions, beets, that is, those crops that are sown directly into the ground in early spring, as well as before winter, are coated.
- To do this, sorted, calibrated, tested for germination, disinfected seeds are moistened in a solution of mullein diluted with water (1 part of mullein per 10 parts of water) and filtered through a sieve.
- The seeds are slightly moistened so that they are easily separated from each other when stirred, and placed for drageeing in any glass jar.
- A nutrient mixture for seed coating is prepared from 600 g of ventilated lowland non-acidic (pH 6.5) sifted peat, 300 g of humus, 100 g of finely crushed dry mullein.
For 1 kg of such a mixture, add no more than 15 g of powdered superphosphate. - The prepared mixture is added in small portions to a jar of seeds and shaken. As a result, the particles of the mixture stick to the seeds, forming a dragee shape.
Depending on the culture, dragees are brought to a certain size:
- for carrots and parsley - 2.5-3 mm in diameter,
- for onions, beets - 4-5 mm.
Important! Larger size delays germination and reduces seed germination.
If the seeds are coated in advance (in winter):
- They are dried for 2-3 hours at 30-35°C.
- This is done so that the seeds do not germinate during storage.
- Before sowing, coated seeds are stored as usual.
Before sowing, they are lightly sprayed and kept under wet burlap for 1-3 days at 20-25°C, and then sown.
Seeds, coated in spring:
- do not dry before sowing,
- but kept under burlap in the same way as in the first case.
Dragee reduces the consumption of seeds, allows you to keep the distance you need when sowing, which eliminates the need for thinning plants.
- Coating of seeds is of particular importance when sowing before winter., as well as earlier in the spring (the risk of seed death decreases).
- In addition, germinated seeds immediately receive the necessary nutrients from the shell and moisture in an accessible form, which creates Better conditions for the growth and development of plants, and consequently, increases the yield.
To some extent, panning can be replaced in a simpler way- mixing moistened seeds with dried and well crushed mullein (4 parts of mullein to 1 part of seeds).
Seed sparging
Seed sparging- new efficient method of preparing seeds for sowing , developed at the TSHA Vegetable Experimental Station.
The essence of acceptance is that the seeds are soaked in water saturated with oxygen or air.
- It disinfects the seeds
- ensures their friendly germination,
- increases field germination,
- and in some cultures it accelerates maturation.
We want to warn you! None of the ways pre-sowing treatment seeds cannot replace the basic agricultural practices when growing vegetables - good training soils, the best predecessors, optimal timing sowing and planting, plant care.
Sowing seeds on paper
This simple and affordable trick from the list ways to prepare seeds for sowing deserves special attention. It significantly reduces seed consumption, allows spring sowing of cold-resistant crops much earlier, which makes it possible to make better use of soil moisture, and, consequently, to get quick, friendly shoots. You can sow such seeds before winter. At the same time, plants do not interfere with each other from the first day of appearance, they grow and develop faster, such laborious work as the first thinning of crops disappears. It is also valuable that sowing seeds on paper can be carried out in the winter without rushing. This work is not only for the elderly, but also for children.
The essence of sowing on paper is
- that calibrated, full-weight, germination-tested, disinfected seeds are glued onto a tape made of any easily blotted paper.
- Toilet paper is the best for this.
- On such paper (in order to save it), three rows of seeds are placed (along the length), at a distance of 4 cm from one another.
The technique for gluing seeds is simple. Strips of paste made from wheat or potato flour are applied to the paper (stationery and casein glue are also suitable) and the seeds are laid out on them with a thin wooden stick or match.
The distance between seeds in rows depends on the crop, seed germination and nutritional area, which is necessary for the formation of a root crop or bulb of a standard size:
- for carrots, parsley, radishes - 5 cm;
- for turnips, beets - 8-10;
- for summer radish - 6, and for winter varieties - 13;
- head lettuce - 20, leaf - 2;
- for dill - 1;
- spinach, black onion for greens - 3,
- and on a turnip (spicy varieties) - 5,
- sweet and peninsular - 8 cm.
When laying the seeds on paper in rows, they are doubled in order to subsequently push the plants through one and get early greens and products.
The tapes with glued seeds are allowed to dry, the name of the crop and variety are inscribed on them, rolled into a loose roll and tied with a thread. Store them before sowing in a dry place, protecting from mice.
seed quality and right choice varieties are of great importance for obtaining a high sustainable yield in optimal time. For planting, it is preferable to use seeds with high varietal and sowing qualities.
Seed preparation
Preparation for sowing begins with the selection of large and full-weight seeds, which give a higher yield compared to conventional ones. For selection, large seeds are immersed in a 3-5% solution (30-50 g per 1 liter of water) of sodium chloride or ammonium nitrate. Pour them into the solution in small portions, stirring, and keep in the solution for several minutes. Large seeds sink to the bottom, while small ones float and are removed. Then the solution is carefully drained, and the seeds are washed several times with water and dried.
Germination and vigor check
After sorting, the seeds are checked for germination and germination vigor. To do this, moistened seeds are placed in three layers of gauze, filter paper or cloth (small - at least 100, medium - 50, large - 20 pieces) and placed on the bottom of a flat plate or saucer. From above, the seeds are covered with the same materials, moistened with water, covered with a plate or saucer and placed in a warm place, making sure that the bedding is always wet. The temperature during germination should be 16-20 °. For germination, you can use well-moistened felt or cloth. Seeds are also germinated in gauze or filter paper, on a glass plate laid across the saucer, the ends of the gauze or paper are dipped in a saucer with water room temperature. Moisture to the seeds with this method of germination enters through the ends of the material lowered into the water. When the germination period expires, the number of germinated and non-germinated seeds is summed up and the percentage of germination is determined (if out of 100 seeds, for example, 90 sprouted, then the percentage of seed germination is 90%). The germination energy of seeds of cabbage, radish, radish, cucumber is determined on the fourth day; beets, sorrel, onions, spinach - on the fifth; carrots, dill - on the sixth; tomatoes - on the seventh; parsley, celery - on the eighth. Germinating seeds together give uniform and strong seedlings. Large seeds of pumpkin, peas, beans, sweet corn are best germinated in well-washed, dried and sifted sand through a thick sieve, moistening it with water until damp. In such cases, they are buried in the sand to a depth of 2-3 cm. Seeds with a higher germination capacity and germination energy are selected for sowing. Providing friendly and fast shoots, they allow you to fight weeds in a timely manner and make it easier to care for plants. The viability of seeds depends on the crop, the storage conditions of the seed and the cultivation of seed plants, harvesting and post-harvest seed ripening. Usually seeds of vegetable crops keep sowing qualities from two to nine years. For sowing, it is better to take seeds of one year of storage. The exception is cucumbers, for planting which it is preferable to use seeds two or three years old. Cucumbers sown with fresh one-year seeds often form many male (barren flowers) and few female flowers, especially in the first period of fruiting, and as a result, early harvest yields are reduced. It is necessary to pay great attention to the selection of seeds according to their quality, discarding seeds with low germination and vigor of germination, poor varietal categories. The cost of seed treatment is more than covered by a higher yield.
Disinfection
Seeds that have not been disinfected can become a source of a number of fungal, bacterial and even viral diseases. For disinfection, you can use one of the following recipes (after the dash, the period for keeping the seeds in solution is indicated):
- 1% solution of potassium permanganate - 20-25 minutes;
- for 0.5 l of water, 10 g of ash, insist for two days, then lower the seeds into the solution for 4-6 hours;
- garlic solution (for 100 ml of water 25 g of garlic pulp) - 1 hour in a closed jar. Suitable for dressing cabbage seeds;
- for 0.5 liters of water, half a teaspoon drinking soda, a quarter teaspoon of nitrophoska, half a teaspoon of ash, on the tip of a knife - blue vitriol and boric acid - 12 hours;
- for 0.5 l of water 0.25 g of boric acid, 0.25 g of potassium permanganate, 2-3 g of baking soda - 24 hours;
- 0.2% solution of phytolavin-300 - 2 hours (against bacterial diseases);
- seeds of cabbage, radish, turnip, radish are disinfected in water heated to 48-50 ° for 20 minutes, after which they are cooled in cold water for 2-3 minutes, and then dried to flowability.
Pre-sowing soaking and dressing, providing fast, friendly shoots, in water at room temperature for 24 hours (the water is changed after 10-12 hours):
- sodium humate solution (per 1 liter hot water 1 g), infused 10 hours - 24 hours;
- zircon solution at room temperature (1-2 drops per 300 ml of water) - 8-16 hours;
- solution of growth regulators (0.08% moldstim solution - 24 hours; 10% oxyhumate solution - 48 hours, etc.) - to increase plant resistance to biotic environmental factors and increase yields (treated with only one of them ).
To disinfect seeds on an industrial scale, TMTD (thiram) is used. Currently, tiram is banned for use in Russia, but so far it is still used (as of 2013). Seeds are treated with this preparation in a dry or wet way. When working with TMTD, it should be borne in mind that it irritates mucous membranes and the respiratory tract. The drug is effective in the fight against phomosis of carrots and cabbage, bacteriosis, fungal, bacterial diseases of tomatoes and cucumbers. The consumption rate is 8 g per 1 kg of seeds. Seeds of cabbage are pickled in a dry way (dusting); carrots - dry and wet.
When using a disinfectant in liquid form, the seeds are poured into a gauze or loose canvas bag for 2/3 of its volume and immersed in a solution poured into a glass or earthen pot. The pickling solution should be at room temperature. If the seeds after dressing are intended for storage, and not for sowing, they must be dried quickly at a temperature of 15-20 ° to a free-flowing state. Pollinate the seeds in a tightly closed container, for example, in a jar with a ground stopper. Seeds and the required amount of the drug are poured into the jar (up to half), then it is shaken for 5 minutes for complete and uniform dusting of the seeds. Treated seeds are stored in a dry place. In such cases, dressing does not affect the germination of seeds and they can be disinfected in advance.
Soaking and sprouting
In vegetable growing, soaking seeds until they are completely swollen is widely used, which accelerates the emergence of seedlings. Seeds of dill, spinach are soaked in water at a temperature of 20-25 ° for one to two days. Seeds are poured in such a way that the water only covers them. Water is changed in the morning and evening. The seeds are dried before sowing. Seeds of carrots, parsley, onions, and sometimes cabbage also require soaking in water at room temperature. For moistening use wooden, enameled or glassware. Seeds are poured into them in a thin layer and poured with water in several steps - at first at half the rate. The amount of water depends on the culture. For carrots, beets, parsley, it should be 80-100% in relation to the mass of seeds, for cucumbers, melons - 50-55, cabbage and watermelon - 50-60, tomatoes - 75, beans and peas - 100%. The seeds are stirred every hour so that they completely absorb water. When the moisture is absorbed, and the dishes are poured out the entire norm of water. For rapidly germinating seeds of cucumbers, cabbage, lettuce, radish, watermelon, melon, the soaking time should be about half a day, for slowly germinating seeds - carrots, tomatoes, parsley, beets, onions - about two days. Peas and beans are soaked for 2 hours. It is recommended to keep black onions before sowing for 8 hours in 40-degree water. For germination, the seeds are spread in a thin layer (2-3 mm) on a moistened cloth in a warm room with a temperature of 15-20 ° and covered with burlap on top.
Cooling down (vernalization)
The cooling process is quite laborious. However, it provides an earlier harvest of vegetables and an increase in their cold resistance. For cooling, pre-germinated seeds are taken. Cabbage seeds are placed in enameled bowls or plates; root crop seeds are placed in boxes with a layer of no more than 10 cm or in dry bags, and in extreme cases they are scattered on a tarpaulin with a layer of up to 5 cm. When using dry bags for cooling, the seeds are not dried beforehand. The cooling time depends on the time of sowing seeds and on the characteristics of a particular vegetable crop. Cabbage is cooled 17-22 days before sowing, carrots and parsley - 15-20 days, beets - 10-12 days. After 3-5% of the seeds have hatched, they are laid out in a thin layer, slightly dried until the seed coat ceases to shine. Sprouted seeds are sown only in moist soil or watered during sowing. The sowing rate is determined by the weight of dry seeds. Cabbage seeds are cooled at a temperature of 0 to + 3 °, parsley, carrots and onions - from -1 to + 1 ° for 10-15 days, beets - also from -1 to + 1 °, but for 7-10 days . During cooling, do not allow the seeds to dry out. Cabbage seeds are inspected and mixed daily, and root crops - every other day. If they begin to germinate, they need to be slightly dried, scattered in a thinner layer in a dry room, and then, poured into a dry dish, continue cooling, covering the dish with dry burlap. Strongly overdry the seeds, until their tips darken, should not be. To delay the germination of seeds, lower the temperature somewhat by sprinkling salt on ice or snow. At the end of the cooling, the seeds should only peck, but not have long sprouts. If the favorable sowing time has come earlier than expected, then the cooling is stopped and the seeds are sown without losing favorable weather. After cooling, the seeds give good shoots on fertilized and carefully cultivated soils.
Heat treatment
Seeds harvested in adverse weather, as well as stored in cold rooms, have low germination energy, and sometimes reduced germination. To improve the sowing qualities of seeds, before sowing, they are heated in the sun, periodically stirring. Artificial heating of seeds of cucumbers, watermelon, melons, pumpkins is also used in thermostats, drying cabinets, in an oven, on a stove, etc. The seeds are heated in a thin layer (no more than 8-10 cm) at a temperature of 50-60 ° for 3 hours When seeds are heated in ovens and on stoves, the temperature must be carefully monitored: at first it should be no more than 15-20°C, and then it should be increased to the established level. Failure to follow these rules can lead to steaming of seeds and deterioration in their quality. In ovens, the seeds are heated in gauze bags (with a layer of no more than 15 cm), which are placed on sieves. The bags are turned over every half an hour. In some cases, seeds (for example, beans) are heated in water at a temperature of 60 °, pre-soaked. To do this, they are placed on plywood and gradually watered. After all the water has been absorbed, the seeds are dipped for 6 hours in water heated to 60 °. Then it is drained, the seeds are dried and sown. Cabbage seeds are heated in water at a temperature of 48-50 °, carrots - at 52-53 °.
Sanding
Slowly germinating seeds of carrots, parsley, beets, onions are subjected to sanding. To do this, they are poured into gauze or linen bags, dipped for 1 hour in water with a temperature of 15-20 °. Then the bags are taken out, the water is allowed to drain, squeezing them slightly, the seeds are poured into dense low boxes with a layer of 3-5 cm, they are covered with burlap and kept for four to five days until they swell evenly in a room with a temperature of 15-20 °. Swollen seeds are mixed with dry sand at the rate of five to seven parts of sand per one part of seeds (according to their weight). At the bottom of the bag, a layer of 1-3 cm is poured with clean sand, which is slightly moistened with water and covered with burlap. Swollen seeds mixed with sand are placed on the burlap in a layer of 2-3 cm and again covered with burlap, on which moistened sand is poured. Sandboxes are placed on ice or in a refrigerator - the temperature should be around 0 ° with fluctuations from minus 1 to plus 3 °. At zero temperature, the seeds are kept for three to four days. Then they take off upper layer sand, the seeds are sieved on sieves or sieves to remove sand, and the wet ones are dried in the shade and sown.
hardening
Seed hardening contributes to the increase in the resistance of heat-loving vegetable crops to sharp fluctuations in temperature and their cold resistance. This is done in two ways: swollen seeds are kept at variable temperatures (plus and minus) or briefly frozen. In the first case, the seeds in bags are soaked in water (6 cucumbers, 12 hours tomatoes), after they swell, they are allowed to drain and they are kept for 12 hours at a temperature of 15-20 ° C, and then also 12 hours at 1 -3° frost. Positive temperatures during hardening of seeds of all crops are the same as for cucumbers. For tomato seeds, the temperature should vary from minus 1 to plus 5°C, and for seeds of pepper, eggplant, watermelon, and melon, from 0 to 1–2°C. The duration of seed treatment with variable temperatures for cucumbers is 5-7, for tomatoes - 10-12 days. After hardening, the seeds should peck, but not have long sprouts. With short-term freezing, swollen cucumber seeds are kept in a cold room for two-three days at a temperature of plus 2-5 °, and tomato seeds - for three to five days at a temperature of plus 3 to minus 3 °. Along with increasing the resistance of plants to low air and soil temperatures, seed hardening ensures earlier fruiting and an increase in the yield of vegetable crops. Experiments have shown that plants grown from such seeds begin to bear fruit 12-15 days earlier.
Treatment of seeds with preparations containing trace elements
To accelerate the ripening of vegetables, increase their resistance to diseases and, ultimately, increase yields, pre-sowing soaking of seeds in solutions of preparations and fertilizers containing trace elements is used. Well tested in practice wetting vegetable seeds during the day at room temperature in weak solutions. For 1 liter of water (not boiled), take 0.5-1 g of potassium permanganate, 0.01-0.05 - copper sulfate, 0.1-0.3 - boric acid, 0.2-0.5 - zinc sulfate, 0.5-1 - ammonium molybdate, 55 0.3-0.5 - methylene blue, 5 - baking soda, 0.1 g of nicotinic acid. The solution is prepared in such an amount that it completely covers the treated seeds. After soaking, the seeds are dried to a state of flowability and sown. Some growers soak seeds in a solution wood ash. Take 160-200 g of ash in a bucket of water and infuse the solution for a day, stirring it occasionally. Then it is carefully drained so that the undissolved part of the ash remains at the bottom. The seeds are soaked in the solution for 4-6 hours, after which they are dried and used for sowing. There are data on positive influence for harvest by soaking seeds in half-diluted aloe extract with water (for 6 hours at room temperature).
Coating
The essence of drageeing is to envelop the seeds with nutrient mixtures with an adhesive. To prepare the nutrient mixture, peat, manure humus, and soddy soil are used, which are well dried in the sun or on baking sheets on the stove and then sieved on sieves with a mesh diameter of not more than 3 mm. Humidity of the nutrient mixture should be 8-10%. The adhesive component can be a solution of fresh mullein (one part of mullein to seven to ten parts of water), previously filtered through a fine sieve. The best for this purpose is polyacrylamide at a concentration of 2 g per 10 liters of water, which is produced in the form of a jelly or powder containing 14-16% nitrogen. Nitrogen and potash fertilizers, as well as microfertilizers. Microfertilizers are added based on 1 liter of adhesive: manganese sulfate - 40 mg, copper sulfate - 10, boric acid - 40, ammonium molybdate - 300, zinc sulfate - 200 mg. For 1 kg of seeds (calibrated and pickled), 4-10 kg of dry mixture (peat, etc.) and 3-5 liters of adhesive solution are taken. Dragee is usually carried out in special installations - pans. At home, you can use tin or glass jars for this. Seeds are moistened by spraying or sprinkling them with an adhesive solution until they are freely separated from each other. To do this, the bank is strongly rotated. For 1 kg of seeds take 100-150 ml of wetting solution (preferably with a graduated pipette). To moistened seeds in small quantities - 50-100 g every 2 - 3 minutes, add a dry mixture, which, dusting them, sticks to them in a thin layer. After each such dusting, the seeds are again moistened with a solution and dusted until they look like a dragee. For coating small seeds (turnips, celery), a dry mixture with a particle diameter of 0.15 mm is taken, for carrots and tomatoes - 0.25, beets and cucumbers - 0.5 mm. The size of small coated seeds should be 3-4 mm, medium - 5-6 and large - 10 mm or more. Coating ensures the appearance of uniform seedlings, reduces the sowing rate of seeds and increases the increase in yield due to high quality nutrient mixtures, in which, in addition to organic fertilizers, powdered superphosphate is included in the following Doses (g per 1 kg of dry mix): for cucumber seeds - 2-3, tomatoes 16-20, carrots, parsley - 13-15. Ammonium nitrate, potassium sulphate and potassium nitrate are given at a dose of 1-2 g per 1 liter of adhesive solution.
Seed sparging
This method of seed treatment to the greatest extent contributes to increasing the germination of seeds and increasing the yield of vegetable crops. During bubbling, the seeds are kept in water, which is constantly supplied with oxygen or air. Best results obtained using oxygen, which is difficult and unsafe at home. Therefore, instead of oxygen, air is used, which can be supplied to the water with an aquarium room compressor. The tip of the compressor hose is fixed at the bottom of a glass jar of 0.5-0.7 liters, into which water is poured with a temperature of 20 °. The seeds are immersed in the jar and air is passed through the hose. The duration of bubbling for pea seeds is 6-10 hours, lettuce and radish - 12-18 hours, carrots, spinach and onions - 18-24 hours, pepper and watermelon - 30-36 hours. If the seeds cannot be sown immediately after bubbling, they are dried to the original moisture, laying out in a thin layer on paper in a well-ventilated area. The positive effect of bubbling is felt even when using seeds a few months after treatment. Bubbled seeds should not be sown in waterlogged soil to avoid reducing their germination.
- Kondratieva I.A. Tomatoes: varieties, planting, care. - Well, 2008
In difficult changeable weather conditions Middle lane Russia has to grow the majority of horticultural crops seedling way. To grow seedlings good quality and subsequently obtain a rich harvest, seeds with high sowing properties should be used. Therefore, it is necessary to properly prepare them before sowing. Usually, the seeds of many vegetable crops retain their sowing qualities for a period of 2-9 years, but seeds of the first year of storage most often give a high yield. In this series, cucumber seeds stand apart, they can bring a good harvest even with 5-6 years of storage.
Pre-sowing preparation is useful in that it gives the seeds of vegetable crops resistance to difficult conditions environment, enhances their sowing qualities, increases germination and significantly increases productivity.
Pre-sowing preparation contains the following steps: sorting by specific gravity, determination of sowing qualities of seeds, dressing, hardening, treatment with microelements. After such preparation, you can proceed directly to the germination of seeds.
At home, in order to determine the sowing qualities of seeds, it is necessary, first of all, to sort the seeds by specific gravity using ordinary table salt. For different types vegetables prepare solutions in a strictly defined concentration. Cucumber seeds are recommended to be dipped into the solution, taking 30 g of salt per 1 liter of water for it, for sorting eggplant seeds, cabbage, peppers, tomatoes and other crops, the solution is prepared from 50 g of salt per 1 liter of water.
The seeds are dipped in a solution of the desired concentration and mixed. Lightweight seeds will float through a short time, they need to be removed - they are not suitable. After that, remove the sunken seeds from the solution and rinse thoroughly in clean water, changing the water several times. These seeds have high germination energy and good germination.
Then the seeds should be checked for germination by placing them in a small container on a damp substrate. The substrate can be a piece of flannel soaked in a small amount of water or gauze folded into 3-4 layers, or filter paper. 10, 50 or 100 seeds should be laid out on the substrate (record the number of seeds in order to clarify the number of shoots later). Top cover with gauze soaked in water, periodically moisten the drying gauze. Cover the container with glass and place in a warm place.
The best temperature for seed germination of most vegetable crops is considered to be 20-30°C. Bean, bean, onion, sorrel and poplar seeds are best germinated at 20°C, and spinach seeds at 10°C.
In due time, the seeds should develop normal roots, equal in size to half the length of a large seed or the full length of small seeds. Seeds of radishes, turnips, radishes, swedes, peas and beans usually germinate in 3 days. The germination period for eggplant and bean seeds is 4 days, and the seeds of onions, rhubarb, beets, spinach, sorrel germinate after 5 days. Carrot and dill seeds require 6 days; parsnips, parsley, celery, tomato germinate after 7 days, pepper - after 8, and asparagus - after 10 days. If less than 80% of the seeds germinated within the prescribed period, then the seeding rate for seedlings should be increased so that seedlings do not turn out to be rare.
Selected seeds should be treated against various fungal, bacterial and viral diseases.
If you want to completely abandon chemicals in the treatment of seeds against viral and bacterial pathogens, you can resort to their heat treatment, after which the seeds no longer need to be treated with chemicals.
Tomato seeds must be kept for at least two days at a temperature of 50-52 ° C, after which the temperature should be increased to 78-80 ° C and kept for another day. In the process of heating the seeds, the temperature can only be increased by 1-1.5°C in 5 minutes. Seeds of cucumbers and pumpkin crops should preferably be heated for 3 hours at 50°C, then lower the temperature to 40-42°C and hold for another 10 hours.
For disinfection, the seeds of cabbage, beets, carrots and onions should be immersed in water at a temperature of 48-50 ° C for 20 minutes. When warming the seeds, it is necessary from time to time to add hot water with a temperature of up to 50 ° C to maintain desired temperature. During processing, the seeds should be stirred every 4-5 minutes.
During presowing preparation, it is desirable to treat vegetable seeds with an aqueous solution with trace elements. It can be prepared as an extract from wood ash, as it is a universal fertilizer.
Ash will successfully replace the additional application of potassium sulfate to the soil. Just do not use ashes from burned trees that grew on the sides of highways. This ash contains many harmful impurities. Wood ash can be used for all crops, but eggplant, zucchini, potatoes, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes and pumpkins need it more than others. To prepare the extract, 150-200 g of wood ash should be diluted in 10 liters of water and insisted for a day.
Seeds of vegetable crops should be soaked before sowing in a solution of ash for 4-6 hours at a temperature of 17-20°C. Then dry them in the air, harden them before sowing or simply plant them in the ground at the right time.
seed soaking
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If the seeds are soaked, germinated and hardened before sowing, this measure will significantly accelerate the emergence of seedlings, reduce the possibility of seedling death when sown in cold soil, and increase the resistance of plants to adverse environmental conditions.
Most vegetable seeds require moisture, warmth, and diffused, indirect light to germinate. Although some seeds can be germinated in the dark.
Most often, gardeners use soaking seeds until they are completely swollen, which accelerates the emergence of seedlings. By sowing soaked seeds, seedlings can be obtained 2-3 days earlier than when sowing dry seeds. it simplest way presowing preparation of seeds for planting. Rise and give faster best harvest seeds soaked in snow water. In the absence of such water, you can take melt water from the freezer of your home refrigerator. Some gardeners use magnetized water for this.
First, the seeds must be soaked for several hours at room temperature. Then place them in a container, you can use a glass jar with holes in the lid. Seeds should be regularly washed with water, at least 2 times a day. In this case, all water must be drained without residue. These measures allow you to maintain the level of humidity in the container with the seeds that is necessary for germination. In warm climates, it is better to wash the seeds 3-5 times a day to avoid drying out.
To moisten the seeds of some crops, it is enough to pour them in a thin layer on the bottom of any container and fill it with water, its volume depends on the particular crop. Water should be poured in two doses, then it will be better absorbed, cover the seeds with a damp cloth from above. With this method, it is better to change the water every 4 hours, remembering to gently mix the seeds. You can not lay out the seeds on a plate, but put them in a gauze bag and lower them into the water. The water temperature for seeds of heat-loving crops is 20-25 °C, for the rest -15-20 °C.
During soaking, the seeds should only swell, when 1-1.5% of the seeds peck, you need to stop soaking. Then sow the swollen seeds in moderately moist soil. In dry soil, sprouts that quickly form from soaked seeds will dry out, and in highly moist soil they will die from lack of oxygen.
Seed soaking time various plants varies from one to several days. Seeds of zucchini, cabbage, cucumbers, radishes, radishes and pumpkins germinate quite quickly, the optimal soaking time for them is 12 hours. Even less time is needed for peas and beans - 4-5 hours. The duration of soaking seeds of tomatoes, lettuce and beets is at least 24 -36 hours. Seeds of black onions, chard, carrots, parsley, parsnips, celery, asparagus and sorrel will have to be soaked for about two days.
The seeds of many vegetable crops, after soaking, germinate. This allows you to accelerate the emergence of seedlings by 5-7 days. For germination, spread the seeds in a thin layer on a saucer, laying a damp substrate, and place in a room with a temperature of 15-25 ° C.
Seed germination time depends on the crop as well as the degree of germination desired ( longer time sprouting - larger sprouts). Germination of seeds of cucumbers and cabbage takes 1-3 days, tomatoes and beets - 3-4 days, and carrots - 5-6 days. In order to prevent water evaporation and constantly maintain optimal level humidity, it is necessary to cover the saucer with glass or place in plastic bag. Seeds need to be turned regularly, but gently, to provide the oxygen necessary for seed germination.
During the germination of seeds, it is undesirable to miss the moment of pecking, because at the same time the rapid development of the root of the plant takes place. A very fragile and delicate root is easily damaged, it is quite difficult to sow such seeds. Germination should be stopped when most seeds have white sprouts. If most of the seeds have sprouts, they are planted in moist, well-cultivated and warm enough soil. With a forced delay in sowing, already hatched seeds should be placed in the lower part of the refrigerator and kept at a temperature of 3-4 ° C. Additional hardening will only strengthen future plants.
Seed hardening can be done in two widely used ways. First, to alternately influence negative and positive temperatures on germinated seeds.
With this method of hardening, the seeds must first germinate. To do this, they should be soaked for 2 hours in warm water 10-12 days before sowing, kept around the clock in a warm room (20-25 ° C). Keep under such conditions until 3-5% of hatched seeds appear. After that, before sowing, keep the seeds at night at a temperature of 0 ° C to -3 ° C, during the day - at a temperature of 18-20 ° C. Sometimes for hardening to ensure right conditions, the seeds are taken out to the balcony.
In the second method, seeds that have already hatched can be taken out once in the cold (at temperatures from -3 to 0 ° C). In this case, seeds should be germinated at a temperature of 20-25 ° C until 5-10% of their total number hatch. Then place them in snow or on ice, or in a refrigerator under freezer. Seeds should be kept refrigerated for about 3-5 days.
Before sowing, the seeds must be dried in the shade to a loose state and thrown into moist soil. These are general rules processing vegetable seeds before germination, but each vegetable crop requires a special approach, taking into account these features helps to increase yields.
When co-locating certain crops, you should always take into account climatic zones countries as a set of crops and crop patterns for. The middle belt differs significantly from them both in the southern regions and in the northern ones.
Tomato seedlings can be prepared starting from mid-March or from March 1 to March 25, it all depends on weather conditions specific locality. For seedlings, you should take only healthy, even tomato seeds with a hard shell. After drying the selected seeds, place them in gauze bags and lower them for 20 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. Rinse the treated seeds lightly and dry. When washing, empty seeds will definitely pop up, they need to be collected and discarded.
It is best to use a filtered ash solution or a solution of hot water with the addition of aloe juice to wash the seeds. Hardening gives tomato seeds heat resistance, and the seedlings obtained from them will sprout much faster. To do this, place the tomato seeds in the refrigerator for 20 hours, then dry them on the battery.
cucumber seeds, before planting, you must first heat treat by placing a bag of seeds on a warm battery. If the temperature of the battery is high enough, then the seeds should be protected from severe overheating by placing a cardboard box under them. After that, you can disinfect (30 min) seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate, diluted to purple. After half an hour, rinse the seeds with warm water and dry. You can also treat the seeds with an aqueous solution of wood ash to increase yields. It is best to germinate cucumber seeds in wet sawdust, moss, sand or moistened canvas, covered with felt on top, at a temperature of 20-30 ° C. The process of seed germination must be continued until a small root is formed up to half the length of the seed itself.
carrot seeds germinate so slowly that they can be sown directly into the ground in favorable weather. Sowing dates have a significant impact on the quality of root crops - carrots sown early accumulate more carotene and sugars.
You can add some lettuce seeds to carrot seeds, about 5% of the total volume of carrot seeds. lettuce seeds will sprout on the 4-5th day, they will mark the sowing row, which will greatly facilitate further work. In the unfavorable conditions of a cold spring, germinated carrot seeds must be sown without fail in slightly moist soil.
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Many believe that spring-summer is the hottest season for gardeners. But it seems to me that growing seedlings will not yield to this time in anything. Just have time to soak the seeds, sow and dive. However, people often forget that importance has pre-sowing seed treatment.
Some gardeners believe that if you grow seedlings from your own planting material, then this alone will provide them with a decent harvest: they say that seeds collected with their own hands from healthy plants will sprout well and give healthy fruits.
But it's not. Seeds are not stored in some kind of pressure chamber, but lie at home, a lot of things can happen. And, besides, if you did not grow varieties, but hybrids, then it is useless to collect seeds from such plants, since from such planting material, whether you like it or not, plants will grow that are completely different from the original. And if you really liked some kind of cucumber or tomato hybrid, then you will have to buy the seeds of the “individuals” you like in the store again for the next garden season.
And again - at the same time, no one will give an absolute guarantee that strong ones will grow out of them, healthy plants and give you a bountiful harvest. Their own uncle harvested and not for his beloved.
And now I will return to the pre-sowing treatment of my seeds. I think that it is necessary to do it, it has a beneficial effect on their germination. This is especially true for the "slow-thinking" seeds of eggplant and peppers: without treatment, they usually peck in 12-15 days (and even then not all), and warmed up and soaked in a nutrient solution - within a week (and almost completely). And tomatoes, although they are already “smart”, and even faster - in three to four days.
Seed Treatment Methods
There are many ways to treat seeds. I'll tell you which ones I use. At the same time, each type of plant has its own tricks. Well, I'll start, perhaps, with nightshade. If I use my seeds, then first of all I select the largest, even ones (not broken or twisted) from them.
I carefully monitor that there are not the slightest spots on their surface.
And I harvest with a margin, about 20 percent more than the planned number of seedlings. Is there anything that can happen in life? Suddenly the heating in the house is turned off? And so I have some kind of, but there is a safety net.
But as for purchased seeds, it’s already more difficult, because in bags, if there are 20 things, it’s already good. But it happens that only 10 or even 5 seeds are laid. Try to make a normal selection here. So sometimes you have to buy several bags of the same variety so that you have something to stock up on.
So, the initial selection is made, then wet processing begins. For soaking seeds, I use old thin rags. Each variety is in a separate bundle, which I tie with multi-colored threads. In a separate notebook I write down which one corresponds to which (photo 1).
Then I do this: I warm up the bundles with seeds first in a thermos with hot water(about 50 °) for half an hour, then cool them in cold water for 2-3 minutes. For seed disinfection, I usually always used a saturated (dark purple) solution of potassium permanganate: I keep it in it for 20-30 minutes, then rinse thoroughly in running water.
But now potassium permanganate in pharmacies happens with big interruptions, so for complete disinfection I often use a solution of copper sulphate - a pinch per 1 cup of very hot water. When it is completely dissolved, I cool the solution to room temperature and place the seeds in it for 20 minutes. I will definitely rinse afterwards. And the last stage of processing: for a day I put the seeds in aloe juice.
Two weeks before this, I put the leaves of the plant on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. I use undiluted juice and, after bathing in it, I do not wash the seeds, but simply dry them and sow them in seedlings.
I process pumpkin seeds (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon) in the same way, only I keep them in a thermos with water longer - two to three hours. I do this with carrots, parsley, dill and celery.
I pour hot water into jars (for each variety - separate) (so that the hand endures), pour the seeds into the jar and mix them with a stick in water, and it immediately acquires a yellowish tint (photo 2).
This is washed off from the surface of the seeds essential oils, which make it difficult to germinate.
I wait for the water to cool down, carefully drain it through a strainer, collect the seeds and repeat the procedure again.
I do this three or four times a day until the water stops staining. Then I dry everything on paper.
I soak beetroot and black onion seeds for a day or two in a “live” solution: I take 1 tsp. without a slide of any complex fertilizer (preferably with the addition of trace elements) and diluted in 1 liter of water. Then I take it out and dry it. But I don’t do anything with cabbage seeds, because they are purchased from me, already processed ones are sold industrial way(from this green color), so I plant them dry.
Steaming the soil for seedlings
Soil for seedlings is also better to further process, especially for purchased ones. But one steaming or pouring boiling water is not enough.
Now on sale there are many microbiological preparations that have a preventive and therapeutic effect on the soil and help protect plants from various diseases. These fungicides are produced in the form of tablets, powder or paste and are applied to the ground both when sowing seeds for seedlings and when planting in open ground.
For example, I mix my garden soil with purchased peat soil or coconut substrate and add a tablet of such a product to seedlings when sowing seeds. Plus, during the entire time of growing seedlings, I spill the soil several times with a solution of a well-known fungicide.
And I also want to add. If you pickled the seeds with potassium permanganate, then they turn dark brown as a result, and when you lay them out on
grooves, they are hardly visible against the background of the earth: you can sow either too thickly, or, conversely, sparsely.
Therefore, before laying out the seeds, I powder the grooves with ground chalk - lightly, so that only a white path appears (photo 3), and I already sow the seeds on top of it.
Well, that's all I wanted to write. At first glance, it may seem that I am complicating my life in vain, but, believe me, all this work pays off in the spring with a vengeance.
Seed treatment - folk remedies
Camomile tea
I brew 1 tsp. dried chamomile flowers 1 tbsp. boiling water, I insist 2 hours. I keep the seeds of cabbage and carrots in the infusion for 12 hours, then I dry them and sow them.
on potatoes
I put a few potatoes in the freezer for the night, take them out, wait for them to thaw, rub on a fine grater, squeeze the juice and keep the seeds in it for about 5 hours. The result is always very good!
Willow kissel
I cut willow branches and put them in water for a week. When the roots appear and the water turns brown, soak the seeds in it for 6 hours. It does not matter if the liquid has become jelly-like - dilute with water 1:1.
On honey
1 tsp I stir honey in a glass of warm water. I pour the solution in a saucer so that it barely covers the seeds of tomatoes and peppers, and leave it for five to six hours.
nettle leaves
1 tsp dry grass nettle-beer pour 1 tbsp. ki-: heel and leave for 2 hours. In such a healing potion I soak: tomato seeds, bakla-; zhanov, peppers and cucumbers: for 3-4 hours.
Husk and Ash
1 st. onion husks or garlic: I pour 1 liter of boiling water over the night. : Add 1 tsp. ash and insist 3 days. I dilute j with water 1: 3, water the seeds when sowing or put them in gauze bags in an infusion for a day.
Seed preparation and treatment - questions and answers
What summer residents sometimes do with seeds before sowing: they pickle, freeze, warm ... But can unnecessary procedures harm? Let's figure it out.
Is it possible to hold the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate?
You can disinfect the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate. But the solution should be weak, barely pinkish. Keep the seeds in it for no more than 25 minutes and it is desirable to stir. If the solution is made more saturated, the seeds can easily “burn out” or stick together with each other.
After treatment in which solutions should the seeds be washed?
Seeds must be washed running water after soaking in solutions of potassium permanganate, soda. Opinions differ about aloe juice: some gardeners advise washing the seeds after it, while others argue that in no case should it be. Therefore, for the experiment, you can check both methods.
Seeds of which crops are heated before sowing, and can they be dried out at the same time?
Usually the seeds of peppers and tomatoes are heated. They are poured into a gauze bag and dipped in hot water (+45 ... + 50 degrees) for 30 minutes. So that the water does not cool down, you can warm it up in a tightly closed thermos.
In what sequence should the seed treatment procedures be carried out so that one does not violate the other?
Initially, the seeds can be disinfected, then washed and heated. Then dip into a solution of any growth stimulator with microelements (Zircon, Cytovit, Epin, etc.), then it is desirable to harden them (1-2 days in the refrigerator) and finally germinate.
Do seeds need to be cold hardened?
It is dangerous to harden hatched seeds, because the most delicate sprouts may well be damaged and even die. It is advisable to harden the seeds first, and only then germinate.
Each new garden season traditionally begins with the selection and preparation of seeds. Moreover, correct and timely processing can improve the quality of even unsuccessful planting material.
SEEDS THAT NEED TREATMENT:
- collected independently;
- cheap, questionable quality
PROCESSING DOES NOT NEED:
- inlaid;
- coated (granulated)
We determine the germination
Place 10 seeds between layers of damp gauze on a saucer, put in a warm place. Spray the gauze daily with water to keep it from drying out. After a few days (from the editor: see the maximum terms in the table on page 26), shoots should appear. The number of seeds that normal seedlings will give is an indicator of germination. Remember that in the garden of such ideal conditions will not, so the result may worsen by 10-20%. If you have come to the conclusion that the selected seeds suit you, continue preparing, if not, you will have to buy others.
We calibrate
Remove any frail, misshapen, uncharacteristically colored seeds. Large ones (pumpkin, pepper, tomato, cucumber) sort by hand.
Etching
To protect seedlings from fungal and bacterial diseases, seed dressing can be carried out. To do this, treat them with fungicides (Fitosporin, Maxim) according to the instructions. You can use one of the popular folk methods. For example, soak the seeds for 15-20 minutes in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate or for 7-8 minutes in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide and 3 parts water). Then rinse them under running water.
It is not necessary to treat the seeds in only two cases: if the bag indicates that disinfection has already been carried out, or if you bought coated seeds.
Stimulate and talk
Immediately before sowing, seeds that germinate for a long time (dill, carrots, parsley, celery), soak according to the instructions in a solution of any growth stimulant (Epin, Zircon, Albit) or microelements (Aquamix, Fertika Lux).
Without washing, dry to a loose state. After this treatment, the seeds will sprout much faster.
One more thing required condition safe charging for the harvest - sincere conversation! Sow only in a good mood, say something affectionate and optimistic, because seeds are living organisms, and good word and the seed is nice!
Salt indicator
To select the best seeds, I use a warm solution of table salt (0.5 tsp per 0.5 l of water). I put the seeds in it and leave them in the solution for 1-2 minutes. Full-weight seeds with a good supply of nutrients sink and remain at the bottom, while empty seeds float on the surface. I drain them with water, and wash those that remain clean water, dry and sow.
Elena SCHADNOVA, Pskov
Stimulates Ash
In order for the seeds to sprout sooner, I soak them before sowing in a Fertik or Terraflex fertilizer solution (according to the instructions). Or I cook an ash extract: 1 tbsp. wood ash pour 1 liter of water, filter after 6 hours. I dilute 100 ml of the extract with 0.5 l of water and soak the seeds in the solution:
- carrots, tomatoes, beets, parsley - for 48 hours;
- cabbage, cucumber, zucchini, watermelon, melon, lettuce, radish - for 12 hours;
- onions - for 12-24 hours;
- peas, beans - for 6 hours.
OUR REFERENCE
natural growth stimulants
- aloe juice;
- infusion of chamomile;
- wood ash solution.
"Living" water reanimates the seeds
To speed up the germination of seeds and even reanimate expired ones, I prepare natural stimulants according to my mother's recipe. I start with "living" water. I pour liquid from the tap almost to the top into a saucepan, cover with a lid and put on fire. I heat up to +90 degrees (when air bubbles appear on the surface, but the water has not yet boiled). I shoot from
fire without removing the lid, and as soon as possible I immerse the pan in a container with cold water. Wherein tap water should not fall into the pan! The water that has cooled in the pan is “alive” - degassed and clean. Based on it, I prepare stimulants.
1 tsp I breed natural honey in 1 tbsp. "living" water. I soak the seeds in the solution until they swell.
I dilute fresh aloe juice in half with “living” water. In this composition, I keep the seeds for 5-6 hours.
I cook strong onion broth on “living” water and soak the seeds in it for 4-5 hours.
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Below are other entries on the topic "How to do it yourself - to the householder!"
On the eve of the next sowing season, it can be difficult for a sophisticated gardener to resist acquiring a lot of new interesting varieties vegetable crops. And often the hands do not reach the next experiment, and the seeds remain lying until the next season. Meanwhile, seed germination becomes lower, germination energy drops. And for such littered sachets, before sowing, it is necessary to carry out measures to increase the germination and resuscitation of the potential inherent in them.
Do you do seed bubbling?
Seed germination can be improved in a variety of ways. One of these is seed sparging. An alternative method to sparging is seed soaking, but its disadvantage is that in this case the seeds do not have access to air, and this negatively affects their quality. Therefore, a more effective method is to immerse a tube in a soaking container through which air pressure will be supplied to the water.Those who are engaged in the cultivation of parsley, dill, celery, anise, carrots, fennel, parsnips, cumin, are well aware that their seeds sometimes germinate rather poorly. The explanation for this is the content of essential oils in the seeds, which delay germination. But this problem can be eliminated just with the help of bubbling, since in warm water, under the influence of circulating air flows, the seeds are freed from essential oils.
Several varieties of vegetable seeds can be bubbled at the same time. To do this, they are placed in separate bags of cotton fabric and immersed in the bottom of one container. Large seeds can be wrapped in gauze and tied with a thread.
Folk and modern ways of awakening seeds
Cloth bags are also useful for bringing back to life and awakening very old seeds. In addition, for this you will need two jars - with hot and cold water, it is better if it is melted. The bag is alternately immersed in each vessel for approximately 5 seconds, starting with hot water. You need to do 5 approaches, and then pull the seeds out of the bag and lay them out to dry before further procedures.The presence of aloe pots in the homes of many gardeners is not surprising to anyone. And the point here is not only in love for indoor floriculture, but also in valuable medicinal properties which are also used for plants. The trick is that aloe juice is a great growth stimulant. And if for fresh seeds it is enough to dilute the raw material with water in a ratio of 1: 1, then for stale specimens a pure concentrate is used. The only caveat - you can not squeeze the juice from freshly cut leaves. They need to be allowed to lie down for a day or two in the refrigerator or basement, wrapped in cotton cloth.
If there is no aloe in the house, it's okay. Even in the apartments of modern high-rise buildings, every hostess will surely have a handful onion peel. Raw materials are brewed with 0.5 liters of boiling water. This infusion also serves as a good stimulant.
Owners of private houses carefully collect such useful raw materials as ash. Her water infusion - 1 tbsp. a spoon per 0.5 l of water - in a day it will turn into a wonderful composition for pre-sowing seed treatment.
And, of course, if for various reasons folk methods are not suitable for you, it is useful for old seeds to undergo a treatment procedure with a modern growth stimulator. Epin is well suited for these purposes.
Treatment with any stimulant is usually carried out as follows:
1. Seeds are wrapped in gauze or several layers of bandage.
2. Place in a bowl and pour over the stimulant so that the liquid covers the fabric.
3. Leave the seeds in a warm place.
4. Make sure that the gauze does not dry out.
5. As the seeds germinate, they are selected and planted.
To prevent the fabric from drying out, the bowl can be covered with polyethylene. The strongest plants will be those that grow from the seeds that hatch first.