It is believed that the host is one of those cultivated plants who does not need the care of flower growers. And this flower grows throughout the season, requiring neither watering nor pest and disease control. Also, this plant does not require the intervention of flower growers when preparing the plant for winter. Perhaps such statements are true in relation to the host growing in the southern regions. But here in the center of our country without special care in the fall this beautiful flower wither or simply die.
Hosta is one of those cultivated plants that does not need the care of flower growers.
In this article, we will talk about what agrotechnical measures for the care and transplantation of hostas are carried out in the autumn.
Preparing the hosta for winter consists in proper pruning and sheltering of the plant for the period of cold weather. You should also feed flowering perennial after the end of flowering.
Usually, activities to prepare a flower in a flower bed for winter period start in the summer when it fades. It is necessary to take a closer look at the main stages of preparation for the coming cold weather, as well as remind flower growers what not to do when caring for it during the fall.
Dying hosta foliage in the fall will be an additional shelter for the root system.
Autumn pruning technology
Pruning the hosta in autumn is an easy undertaking, since this flower at this time should only be cut off the peduncle, on which there are no more flowers. So many experienced flower growers say, they also claim that in the fall the foliage of this flowering plant it is impossible to prune, as this event weakens the perennial, makes it less resistant to the upcoming cold weather. BUT dying foliage in autumn will be an additional shelter for the root system. In the spring, when new leaves appear, you can remove the old dead foliage.
But here a new trouble awaits flower growers: the main pests of this perennial usually winter in the old foliage - snails and slugs. In the spring, they "wake up" from hibernation and begin to actively eat the foliage of these flowers. As a result, growers have to pick these pests by hand or look for other ways to deal with them. But no less number of flower growers, in addition to flower stalks, also remove all the withered foliage, and they do it precisely in the autumn period. But There are no specific deadlines for pruning. Usually they wait until the foliage turns completely yellow, and only then remove it. But at the same time, at least 14 to 20 days should remain until the first cold weather. Removal and immediate burning of leaves is a preventive measure to prevent numerous pests from overwintering among the foliage of this perennial.
It is difficult for a novice grower to catch the moment of autumn pruning of hosts, so in this case it is better not to touch its leaves until spring. And pruning plants in the fall is better for more experienced flower growers.
If in the garden this perennial grows in different corners, then you can try both options and choose the best one for yourself.
How to prepare a host for winter (video)
What you need to know about transplanting hosta in the fall
This perennial can be propagated both by seeds and by dividing the bush. But the first method is quite laborious, since you first have to grow seedlings, and only then plant the grown seedlings in a pre-prepared place.
Therefore, a simpler method is usually chosen - dividing the bush. The host grows strongly over time and begins to interfere with the normal growth and flowering of other plants in the flower bed. Therefore, it is transplanted, while dividing into parts. This herbaceous perennial does not tolerate such a procedure: it does not take root well after transplantation, it recovers for a long time, and also becomes unattractive for a long time. That's why a new landing site is chosen carefully, in order to subject the flower to such a procedure as rarely as possible. Usually transplanted and divided by a host that has reached the age of 5 - 6 years. Large roots are carefully filed with a hacksaw, and then broken by hand. After dividing (but before planting in the soil), all foliage should be cut off, leaving only stems about 10 cm high.
Hosta reproduces by dividing the bush
When is the best time to repot this flowering perennial? This is most often done in spring period when young sprouts appear. You can carry out this procedure throughout the season, but it is better not to touch the flowering specimens. Beginners are interested in the following question: is it possible to transplant in the autumn? Yes, you can, but you should remember - from the moment the flower is transplanted to a new place before the onset of cold weather, at least 30 - 40 days should pass. During this period, the perennial will have time to adapt to a new place and will be able to winter well. The time for such an agrotechnical event in different regions is selected based on local climatic conditions (usually from the first to the last ten days of September).
Important! There are varieties of hosts, which in the spring root system does not grow (Tokudama, Siebold, as well as hybrids created on the basis of these species), so they are transplanted or seated only in autumn.
Place for landing hosta must be chosen in advance
The place for planting this perennial must be chosen in advance, it should be in light partial shade, and the soil itself should be light, fertile, loose with neutral acidity. If the soil is heavy on the site, then humus, peat, river sand or rotted sawdust should first be added to it. In addition, there should be no stagnant moisture in the soil, and groundwater should not come closer to the soil surface than 0.6 - 0.8 m.
Before planting, 15-20 liters of water are poured into the prepared holes. Then the plant is placed in the hole, all the roots are carefully straightened and covered with a nutrient substrate from above. The depth of each hole is about 0.4 m, a layer of drainage material 5 cm thick is laid out on the bottom. It is necessary to fill in the holes so that there are no voids between the roots.
Between the bushes of this perennial, it is necessary to make a distance:
- between large ones - 0.8-1.0 m;
- between the averages - 0.5 m;
- between dwarfs - 0.2 m.
After planting, all the bushes should be watered abundantly, and the tree trunks should be mulched with humus or high-moor peat. The root neck should not be buried in the soil, otherwise it will begin to rot.
Hosta breeding (video)
Feeding hostas in autumn
Usually, these flowering perennials are no longer fertilized in the fall - the plant absorbs those nutrients that were added to the soil after flowering ended.
This flowering perennial finishes flowering in mid-July - early August. For them, during this period, you need to use fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. This top dressing will allow the flowers to recover from active flowering and prepare for a harsh winter.
For hosta, you need to use fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium.
Shelter hosta for the winter
Before winter, a layer of peat or humus 15–17 cm thick is introduced under each plant. This mulch will be a kind of blanket that protects the host root system from severe frosts. If the foliage of this flower was not cut off in autumn, then it will also be an additional shelter for the roots. And from above, dry foliage or spruce branches are used as shelter. But usually this plant survives the winter frosts well.
Hosta care features (video)
It can be concluded that in the autumn, caring for this perennial comes down to watering and shelter before the winter cold. To subject the plant to autumn pruning or not is up to the flower growers. It must be remembered that only a few varieties of hosta are transplanted only in the autumn period, and the rest can be transplanted until spring.
decorative ornament any garden, host, unpretentious plant. In warm areas, gardeners do not particularly bother caring for it. It winters well without shelter. But in the middle zone of our country, frosts can destroy a beautiful flower. We will tell you more about the host, leaving in the fall, preparing for the winter.
Properly choosing a variety of hosts, you can create a unique flower arrangement in your garden. Most often, gardeners use the following types of this plant.
Hosta albo marginata. This is a plant with large green leaves and a beautiful white narrow border. It blooms with tall white or lilac flowers.
Hosta undulata. Along the edge, the leaves are collected, forming a wave, slightly oblong. There are white with a green border, as well as pure green. Purple flowers rise 80 cm above the bushes.
Hosta sieboldiana. The leaves are gray in color, very large. Breeders have bred many varieties of this species with leaves blue color. Siebold blooms with pale lilac flowers.
Hosta plantaginea. The shape of the leaves resembles the leaves of an ordinary plantain, only larger in size. Blooms with white, fragrant flowers. There are varieties with double flowers, they are widely used to create decorative beds.
How to Prepare Your Hosta for Winter
A lot awaits the gardener in autumn compulsory works. It is necessary to put in order not only the beds with vegetables, but also not to forget about ornamental plants. Otherwise, they will die during the winter, and next year you will again have to look for plants to decorate the garden. With a competent approach to growing a host, it retains its decorative properties for twenty years, no less.
Preparing the hosta for winter includes:
- Pruning.
- Mulching and watering.
- Shelter for the winter.
Autumn pruning of hosts: pros and cons
Opinions of host lovers regarding pruning differ. In one, gardeners are united - immediately after flowering, flower stalks must be removed. If you do not trim the flower stalks, seeds will form on them. And this is not necessary, since it is quite difficult to grow a hosta from seeds. The plant should not be allowed to waste energy on the formation of seeds that no one needs, instead of preparing for winter. To remove flower stalks (faded and unblown), use a sharp pruner.
Gardeners do not recommend cutting leaves. Some even transplant with leaves. During the autumn period, they will finally fade and die. naturally. Full pruning of leaves is a strong stress for the plant. And drying out gradually, the foliage will become an excellent mulch that will protect the roots of the plant from the winter cold.
Pruning of old shoots can be done in the spring, when the plant has already overwintered and given new shoots.
Some gardeners believe that pruning is mandatory, because old leaves can cause infections. In fact, hosts rarely get sick, they are resistant to fungal diseases. Therefore, such an argument in favor of leaf pruning cannot be considered as reliable.
Mulching and watering
Is mulching necessary? Be sure to carry out this procedure in September. It should be remembered that the host is a moisture-loving plant. And she needs watering in the fall, more than ever. The roots of the plant should be well wet. For this, the strait of bushes is carried out by 40-50 cm.
Important! At the first frost on the soil, it is necessary to stop watering.
What to use as mulch
The natural mulch will be the lower leaves, which will fall off in the fall. Additionally, you will need a layer of mulch, which is suitable for:
- peat;
- sawdust;
- straw;
- bark;
- shredded branches.
Each gardener must determine for himself which type of mulch is more convenient for him to use. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Pine bark. Mulching with bark looks very decorative. The bark protects the root system well, retains moisture for a long time. But its cost is high, and if many varieties of hosta are grown in the garden, it will turn out to be very expensive. Using the bark as a mulch is difficult if the hostas are planted under trees. The decomposed bark will make it difficult to clean up fallen leaves in the fall, which is necessary.
Chopped branches. A gardener who has a special chopper can afford such mulch. Annually by pruning garden trees and shrubs, there are many branches. If you pass them through the grinder, you will get a large amount of material that can be used to mulch the hostas. A few years later this natural material turns into natural coarse compost. The disadvantage is the same - it is inconvenient to remove foliage with such a mulch.
Peat. The first video shows how to mulch peat hostas in pots and in open ground.
Sawdust. Convenient material, it is easy for them to mulch the area around the host. Looks attractive. But you need to have your own small wood processing plant to use sawdust as mulch in a large garden area.
Important! Before laying out the mulch, it must be treated with insecticides. This will help kill or neutralize possible pests and bacteria that may be in the mulch. So that snails do not start in it, it is additionally sprinkled with tobacco.
How is mulch applied? Mulch is mixed with dry soil and sprinkled near the base of the hosta bush.
"Live" mulch for hosta
Some gardeners plant ground covers between host bushes. The most commonly used stonecrop is Spanish. This plant lines the ground like a rug. The only thing is that it also needs to be taken care of, and this is additional work.
Mulch time
Terms of application organic mulch depend on the region of planting hosts.
- In Siberia, regions of the Urals, in the Far East - mulching is carried out until October 1.
- In the southern regions, you can wait until the end of October.
- In the Moscow region, work is completed by mid-October.
Shelter for the winter
After mulching, you should think about sheltering the hosta for the winter. To do this, you do not need to build any super shelters. Enough to pick up suitable material who will need to close landings.
Important! It is impossible to apply fertilizers containing phosphorus and other elements in the fall. The host is fed for the last time during the season in August, and then only in the spring.
- A dry day is chosen for shelter. It is necessary that there is no precipitation and strong winds.
- Hosta bushes are covered with non-woven material, along the perimeter it is fixed with stones, boards or bricks. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the growth buds.
- Polyethylene film must not be used. Ruberoid is also not worth using. Otherwise, the foliage will begin to rot, rotting and the development of fungal diseases will begin, which will lead to the death of the plant. It is better to use spunbond, agrofibre, burlap.
- After a sufficient amount of snow has fallen, it is necessary to cover the plantings with it. You can only take freshly fallen snow, without ice, so as not to damage the plant.
Taking care of the host in the fall, covering it securely for the winter, you can see in the spring how it will release new large leaves of rich color, and then delight with fragrant flowers.
host - very interesting shrub. It does not differ in bright and lush colors, on the contrary, they are faded and inconspicuous. Its main advantage is lush spreading leaves. She lives well in the shade, so she is often planted under trees as an element of decor. An important factor hosta care is to prepare it for winter in the fall. If there is a desire that the next summer the host will please with its blooming appearance, it must be properly prepared in the fall.
Features of care in the fall and preparation for winter
Many gardeners say that the host does not need special preparation and specific shelter from severe drops in temperature. This judgment is erroneous.
This formulation is only suitable for plants located in the southern regions. Although there are occasional strong sub-zero temperatures.
Therefore, caring for hostas in the fall should include a few basic rules.
The plant tends to bloom in mid-late August, depending on the species. The initial preparation for winter includes the removal of buds that have faded. Such an element of care for hostas in the fall is necessary so that the plant does not spend its nutrients on the formation of seeds and their maturation.
Important! The mulching procedure is carried out when autumn comes. lower leaves dry out, forming a natural layer of mulch. Additionally, you can add a layer of organic matter. Wood is good for this. fresh sawdust, mowed dried grass (straw) or masses of peat.
Before spreading the mulch, it must be treated with chemical insecticides. The event is held in order to eliminate possible pests and neutralize pathogenic bacteria that provoke diseases. In addition, it is recommended to add tobacco dust to the mulch. It will help prevent the appearance of slugs and snails on the leaves of the flower.
Top dressing is carried out in early summer for a more lush growth of greenery. The last deadline for autumn fertilization is the end of August. If you fertilize the rhizomes of the plant after the specified period, then the host will not have time to prepare for wintering in a natural way.
Hosta loves moisture and abundant watering. Novice gardeners, admiring the plant, plant it in large quantities on their plantations. But watering them, they are amazed at the gradual drying of most of the leaves. It turns out that watering is carried out only on the surface leaves, and the soil under the roots remains dry.
In the autumn months, the hosta, more than ever, needs watering. Its soil should be shed by 30-50 cm, so that the entire root system is saturated with life-giving moisture. After a decrease in temperature is noticeable, watering should be gradually reduced and completely stopped.
In the southern regions, shelter is not required for the broad-leaved beauty. The most reliable shelter is mulch and your own fallen leaves.
Thus, the host unpretentious plant, but anxiously reacting to top dressing. The main rule is proper watering. If the procedure is carried out on top of the foliage, a disastrous result can be expected.
Video: features of hosta care in the fall and preparation for winter.
pruning autumn
The question - whether to prune the host for the winter in the fall - is the cause of controversy for many flower growers. Some argue that cutting foliage is highly discouraged. After all, it contains all the nutrients that must independently pass from the green to the root of the plant. Upon completion of this process, the leaves naturally die off.
Other farmers say to prune the hosta leaves for the winter, but recommend not delaying the pruning of foliage before the cold weather. Inside the foliage, on the underside, pests can hide, as well as slugs and snails.
After the leaf itself falls, they safely burrow into the ground and winter there in warmth and reliability. In the spring, when the first tender green shoots appear, they crawl out and methodically eat, preventing the plant from releasing at least one shoot.
So is it necessary to prune the host for the winter? Many gardeners still recommend pruning the plant in the fall. The purpose of pruning in the autumn is considered by many flower lovers to be the treatment of shrubs from pests. The main thing is not to delay the process of transformation of the foliage from the elastic state to the slimy decomposition of the green mass.
But when to cut the hosta for the winter? The most favorable moment for pruning is the period when the leaf has turned yellow and begins to lay on the surface of the earth. Indeed, at this time, all the nutritional properties are safely incorporated into the root system and growth buds at the base of the roots. It is this circumstance that will help determine when to cut the leaves of the host in the fall.
AT spring time pruning is carried out only if it was not carried out in the fall. It is necessary not only to remove the old leaves, but also to eliminate the eaten young leaves.
Usually, the time to remove excess tops is 20-30 days before the first frost, namely the end of October - the beginning of November in the middle lane. A later procedure threatens with freezing of bare sections.
Important! Leaves are removed very carefully in autumn. It is necessary to constantly monitor the trimming procedure. If you cut the leaf incorrectly, you can provoke mechanical damage to the growth buds laid down for the next year.
Therefore, cutting the leaf must be carried out over the growing points of the plant. Otherwise, if all young shoots have been removed, the plant has every chance of dying.
Important! It is strictly forbidden to apply mineral fertilizers after pruning in the fall. You can feed the host with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers at the end of September as a care for the host. They will be absorbed by the root system and set aside for the next flowering period.
In autumn, only the introduction of organic mulch is possible, which will serve as a natural top dressing. Deadlines vary for each region. So, the following mulching periods are recommended for different areas:
- Central Russia (Volga region, Moscow region) - until mid-October.
- Southern regions - the last days of October.
- For the Far East, the Urals and Siberia - until October 1, the last days of September are better.
If cold days have come, and the host did not have time to cut for the winter, then it is advisable to eliminate all pests by digging the soil under the bush.
Shelter for the winter
Many gardeners are wondering if the hosta needs to be covered for the winter. It is worth knowing that the hosta is subject to shelter. This is especially necessary in the cold regions of our country. The shelter consists in two stages - mulching and warming the shrub.
How to cover the host for the winter? The event should be performed according to the following technology:
- All work should be carried out on a warm, windless day, without precipitation.
- The main condition for carrying out is dry soil.
- The soil around the bush is raked under the base.
- The mulch mix is mixed. It consists of sawdust, old grass, brushwood and peat. All ingredients are taken in equal quantities.
- The batch is poured out next to the root neck, under the very base of the foliage.
- First, tobacco dust is sprayed on top of the bush, and then irrigated with a chemical insecticide. This will get rid of pests and diseases.
- The bush is covered with material specially produced for this purpose or improvised means.
- Along the perimeter of the material, from the edges, so as not to damage the growth buds, bricks or stones are laid. This will protect the plant from rodents and strong winds.
Note! An important point in the shelter of hosts for the winter is the right choice of covering material. It is strictly forbidden to wrap the host for the winter with roofing felt or plastic wrap.
These materials for sheltering hostas for the winter provoke condensation. The latter contributes to the decay of foliage and its decay. Under such conditions, the plant acquires a fungal disease. The result in the spring will be the complete death of your beloved green pet.
Attention! To shelter a host for the winter, agrofiber, spunbond, and old burlap are suitable. From above, you can additionally stretch the ropes that are attached to the pins driven into the ground.
Another method of warming involves placing a large layer of mulch under the plant - 15-17 cm. Pine spruce branches are piled on top of organic top dressing. When snow falls, it needs to be collected and piled on the spruce branches with a large snowdrift. This method of sheltering the host for the winter will keep the plant warm for the entire period of winter frosts.
What are the features of preparing hosts for winter in different regions
The southern regions practically do not need shelter. The procedure is necessary if the forecast portends any frost. In other situations, the host will overwinter well in natural conditions.
In the Middle lane (Moscow region) and in the Volga region
Hosta in the Volga and Moscow region can survive the winter without much shelter. In these places, it is enough to pile spruce branches and shower with snow masses. If a winter with severe frosts is expected, then it is advisable to mulch the root system with a thick layer of peat mixed with sawdust.
Also, cut leaves are placed on top, covering them with pine trees. The latter are recommended to be laid on top with bricks or pulled on a tourniquet so that the branches are not blown away during strong hurricanes.
In the Urals and Siberia
Siberia and the Urals are characterized by severe frosts and sub-zero temperatures. To warm the hosts in these regions, you will need all the knowledge and skills to shelter the plant. Be sure to dig up the root circle to remove all pests. Cover the surface with mulch. Top cover with material for sheltering plants for the winter.
After the snow falls, it is recommended to collect it and pour it over the insulation. It is important that the snow is not frozen, crusted, but crumbly, fresh. Otherwise, sharp snow masses can damage the shelter and provoke freezing of the growth buds of the plant.
Common Mistakes in Hosta Care in the Fall and Preparing for Winter
Many gardeners, without thinking about the consequences, may take rash actions that harm hosta growth. Improper care of the host in the fall and preparation for winter provokes the death of the shrub.
There are several mistakes that are undesirable to make when caring for a plant in the fall and preparing for wintering:
- Overdry the soil- lack of nutrient moisture will negatively affect the condition of the roots.
- Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers at the end of September– the time itself is not suitable for fertilizing. In addition, nitrogen fertilization entails the activation of leaf growth. Therefore, the shrub will try to release young leaves, and not prepare to leave for winter rest.
- Hosta transplant- the procedure should be carried out in late August - early September. Untimely resettlement and division of the bush provoke a decrease in the protective properties of the bush. They can also lead to disastrous results.
- Use polyethylene film or roofing material for shelter. Such materials retain the heat generated by the plant well, but do not allow the oxygen necessary for plant growth to circulate.
At proper care for a hosta for the winter and avoiding the above mistakes, then you can admire a strong and beautiful plant.
Thus, if you know the rules of shelter, required pruning and caring for the host in the fall, it will respond and actively release gorgeous large leaves. Otherwise, after the first frosts, you can not wait for the growth of the shrub for next year.
Planting and care
Watering and feeding
"Enemies" hosts
planting material
Hosta breeding
Preparing for winter
Every owner of a garden plot wants to make it attractive and unique. Hosts can help with this, planting and caring for them in the open field does not require serious skills and knowledge. This plant is considered unpretentious. It can grow with equal success in the shade and in sunny places. Its variegated eye-catching leaves will add a unique touch to any flower garden. In order for the plants to fully develop and please the eye, it is necessary to follow a few simple recommendations.
How to plant a hosta?
A key role in the intensity of growth and development of a plant is played by the correctness of its planting. In doing so, several key factors must be taken into account:
- Host location.
- Soil composition.
- Landing rules.
Only when all these aspects are taken into account will it be possible to plant a plant so that it pleases the owners for more than one year. For creating beautiful flower garden it should also be taken into account that different varieties host can grow in different ways. Therefore, before planting, be sure to familiarize yourself with the features of the variety you have chosen.
Choosing the best place
Planting hostas in the spring in the ground is allowed both in darkened and sunny places. This is largely determined by the plant variety. The main rule in this case is not to plant hostas in the shade of dense tree crowns. In such a place, they stop growing and lose the intensity of leaf color. You can choose a site based on color:
- Plants with dark foliage are best planted near apple trees, pears or other trees with a small crown.
- If golden or white streaks are present in the color of the leaf plate, then they should be placed on the east side under low plantations. With a lack of light, they can lose their decorative effect.
After you decide on the choice of a site for planting, it must be cleaned of contaminants and dug up. Try to completely get rid of weeds that will take away nutrients.
Landing a host in open ground in Siberia should be carried out exclusively in the spring. In other regions, autumn landing is also allowed.
soil preparation
Hosts are not picky about the quality of the soil. For full development, they need a minimum of nutrients. If the soil is dominated by sand, a small amount of peat will be required. It will help eliminate the leaching of salts and minerals.
When the soil is too poor, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers. Today there is a wide range of specialized preparations. When using them, you must follow the instructions and do not exceed the dosage.
Basic landing rules
The method of planting and caring for hostas in the open field will also depend on the type of planting material. It is best to choose instances with a closed root system. It is enough to carefully remove them from the container without damaging the rhizome and plant them in a previously prepared hole.
Plants with an open root system take root worse. When choosing such planting material, it is necessary to carefully examine the root system. It must be alive, without signs of decay. After planting such a hosta in the hole, it is watered. In this case, you need to place the plant so that the kidney is above the surface of the earth.
Basic rules of care
Hostas, planting and caring for which is carried out in open ground, require care. It will consist in following simple recommendations:
Planting a host in open ground in the Urals and other regions with a changeable climate requires control of soil moisture. You can only water when the top layer of the soil dries out. Otherwise, the root system may rot.
Diseases and pests
An important aspect in the issue of planting and caring for hostas in the open field is the fight against diseases and pests. by the most frequent problems become:
- Phyllosticosis is a fungal infection. It manifests itself in the form of spots on the leaves of a brown color. Damaged foliage should be destroyed as soon as possible and the plant should be sprayed with special preparations.
- Botrytis. With this disease, the leaves quickly dry out and fall off. The only way to deal with it is with chemicals.
- Damage garden slugs. These insects are considered the main pests of the host. Drugs are also used to combat them. In addition, slugs can be collected by hand and destroyed.
With proper care, the host will grow and develop rapidly. It will be a wonderful decoration for any garden.
All about hosts - video
Popular deciduous plant Asparagus family - hosta, is a leader in landscaping personal plots. Thanks to its shade tolerance and unpretentiousness, its presence is able to ennoble the most secluded places, regardless of their illumination by the sun. Hosta, or as it is tacitly called - a flower for lazy people, is decorated with sprawling juicy greenery and thanks to it the plant, even in the non-flowering period, looks great.
In the piggy bank of a perennial hosta, there are about six hundred varieties, in which not only the leaves differ in color, shape and texture, but also the buds are famous for their diversity. It should be noted that the most valuable part of the hosta are beautiful leaves, and they can be: rounded, narrow or heart-shaped - from 5 to 38 centimeters in length. The leaves themselves are quite dense, smooth or textured to the touch, shiny or matte, falling from the middle of the rosette, delighting with all sorts of shades of green and blue, with a gradual transition to light cream or golden colors.
Not infrequently, leaves adorn narrow or wide borders, stripes, circles of a completely opposite color, which gives a special charm to such variegated plants. Today there are two - and even three-colored hostas, the color of which clearly looms and remains unchanged until half the summer. The indisputable advantages of the hosta are decorative and shade-resistant, given that most garden greenery prefers bright sunny places and very little shade-loving.
Hosta - one of the few ground cover plants, growing strongly, can occupy large areas - up to a meter wide, survive, almost independently, without requiring too much attention in care and being constantly in one place, becoming more and more beautiful over the years.
Planting and care
When choosing a place for planting a hosta, it is worth considering that for about 20 years it will not need a transplant, feeling comfortable in the shade or partial shade, out of reach of strong winds and drafts. The plant is not particularly demanding on the soil and can grow on black earth or sand, however, if it is possible to choose, it will prefer light loamy soil with a neutral reaction. Hosta planted in sand may grow more slowly, but will differ more rich color greenery.
The plant loves moisture, but reacts badly to dampness and close flow of groundwater, such a neighborhood can be detrimental to its root system. As they grow older, the hosts, with their powerful roots, calmly provide themselves with the necessary moisture and nutrients, and with the onset of "maturity" they completely become drought-resistant.
In general, plants are unpretentious and do not depend on external factors, some varieties are an exception, for example, hosts with a bluish-blue leaf color, which, under the influence of the sun, can change their decorative shade. To preserve a beautiful wax coating of foliage, it is advisable to plant them only in the shade or partial shade.
Having decided on the location, it is necessary to dig a wide landing hole, at least 40 centimeters deep, so that the roots of the host can fit freely in it. Experts advise to make drainage from small stones at the bottom of the hole, mix rotted organic matter, peat, humus, add a complex of minerals at the rate of one tablespoon per bucket of water, or feed each plant by mixing one tablespoon, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate .
In the center of the hole, build a small elevation of fertile soil mixed with fertilizers and direct the roots of the hosts along it. Then sprinkle everything with soil so that the root neck is underground, lightly tamp and several times, at short intervals, it is good to spill water to fill the voids between the roots with earth. It is desirable that the new plant be planted at the same depth as the mother plant. The soil for spring planting must be prepared in advance, that is, in the fall. Organic fertilizers should be scattered in a uniform 10-centimeter layer over the site, and then dug onto a spade bayonet along with the ground.
Planting can be carried out throughout the season, providing them with abundant and regular watering, but seating in the heat can contribute to the shedding of foliage. The leafless period lasts an average of about three weeks - until full rooting, and then with proper watering, the leaves will recover, and the hosta itself will become even better than it was.
In fact, hostas need minimal care, which involves regular watering, the necessary loosening, timely weeding and top dressing. BUT good relationship to plants, it can transform them right before our eyes: the leaves will begin to grow larger, the bushes will grow more intensively, and the flowers will bloom right before our eyes. In order for a perennial host to decorate a garden plot for as long as possible, experts advise to be guided by such fairly simple rules:
- do not re-plant plants in the places where they have already grown before, otherwise the new "guests" will get sick all the time;
- the first five years after planting, the host should not be transplanted or divided.
Watering and feeding
For a new plant, morning watering is recommended, at least once every 2 to 3 days, after which the soil should be mulched so that moisture does not quickly evaporate from its surface. After a while, it is advisable to remove the mulch so that it does not cause the open root collar to warm up, which can also become a refuge for slugs that love to feed on hosta leaves. On hot days, plants need daily watering with standing water outside, as cold water bad effect on the root system.
Among summer residents, the collection of raindrops in containers is widespread, the water from which is excellent for further watering hostas or other plants on the site. Experts advise - to carry out regular and at the same time moderate watering, since excessive soil moisture adversely affects plants. Also, you should never pour water on the leaves of the hosta, but water it only under the root. If this rule is ignored, then not beautiful spots may appear on the leaves, but blue varieties covered with a wax coating - generally lose their uniqueness.
In hot weather, blue-green hostas can overheat, which will immediately affect their appearance, which will become much worse than plants living in the shade. Variegated specimens feel comfortable only in the sun, and "mope" in the shade, becoming less attractive or even green.
All hosts respond well to feeding, as soon as they come out of hibernation and before the onset of summer, they can be pampered at least several times a month with nitrogen fertilizers, manure or chicken manure, and with special care so that the plant, in contact with them, does not get burned. Also, at least four times a season, the host can be fed with complex fertilizers. Top dressing is best done in damp, after rain or good watering, soil, in the morning, alternating between root and foliar "sweets". blue varieties it is necessary to feed only on the lower part of the leaf in order to preserve the signature wax coating.
"Enemies" hosts
If you exclude morning watering in the heat, then evening moisture can provoke an invasion of slugs. In addition to slugs, hosts' enemies include caterpillars, beetles, snails, which gladly feast on green leaves, leaving very ugly holes on their surface. And the caterpillars are capable of almost overnight, completely destroying the entire plant. You can rid the plants of uninvited guests with the help of insecticides or using folk remedies. Try to scatter crushed eggshells over the area or put small containers of beer in the shade, the smell of which will quickly crawl from everywhere slugs, and then it’s a matter of technology to collect and destroy.
Another danger to plants is stem nematodes. To detect them, experts advise finely chop the leaves of the hosta into a thin-walled glass and pour clean water, then examine the contents of the glass in the light. The presence of floating worms in the water will indicate the infection of the plant with nematodes, the fight against which is absolutely useless. Chemicals they do not destroy the eggs that nematodes carefully lay, and next year new offspring will not keep themselves waiting. To get rid of this problem, it is desirable to simply destroy the host with signs of damage along with plants within a radius of two meters.
planting material
It is advisable to purchase seedlings only in specialized stores or from a trusted supplier.
Mostly for sale, hostas are planted in flower pots or in bags with roots in a nutrient mixture. Since it is impossible to see the state of the roots in them, it is worth choosing plants with a well-developed leaf bud. At the same time, a full-fledged leaf grown from a bud may indicate a weakened root system, and as a result, the host takes root worse and grows more slowly. This is despite the fact that hostas do not belong to fast-growing plants anyway.
It is possible to purchase a hosta with an open root system, which makes it possible to inspect the roots and make sure of the quality of the planting material. If there are damaged or rotten roots, they should be removed, and the root system should be placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Experts advise planting hostas in open ground around the end of May, focusing on the weather and warming up the soil. If the seedlings were purchased long before the moment of planting on the garden plot, then it can be kept intact and safe in two ways:
- planting material must be wrapped in a plastic bag and put in the bottom of the refrigerator for storage at a temperature of 0 - 4 degrees Celsius;
- planting material should be planted in any container intended for this and periodically watered before moving to the place of permanent "residence".
So that the plant does not start to hurt after room conditions, it must be hardened, exposing a little in a pot outside. Gradually increase the time spent on fresh air, the plant will be completely hardened by the time of planting in open ground.
Hosta breeding
Hostas can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush or cuttings.
When propagated by seeds, success depends on their treatment with growth stimulants. Seeds have low germination and it is advisable to soak them before planting for at least 30 minutes in preparations: root, epin or aloe juice. Germination can also be increased with the help of stratification, which consists in placing seeds in the cold for 30 days.
Experts advise using only a sterile substrate for planting, without foreign microorganisms, so that the seedlings do not get sick. The composition of the substrate should be: perlite, peat and vermiculite, and you should buy it in specialized stores. At the end of April, it is necessary to prepare drainage in a container, pot or other container, put a substrate on top, which is well watered.
Then evenly sprinkle hosta seeds on it, cover with a small layer of substrate and lightly tamp everything. After that, cover the container with a film or glass and put it in partial shade for a couple of weeks, out of reach of direct sunlight. With a soil temperature of 18-25 º heat, constant moistening and removal of condensate, seedlings can sprout in two or three weeks. After, the seedlings must be transferred to a well-lit place and, if there are 2 - 3 leaves, dive into separate cups.
It is desirable to water the seedlings from below, placing the container with the host in a deep pan with water and keep it in it until the top layer of soil gets wet. For hardening, it is necessary to remove the glass or film from the seedlings for a short time, gradually increasing this time. Then remove the cover completely, and put the plants outside at an air temperature of 18 and above degrees Celsius. Moreover, growing hosta from seeds is a rather lengthy process, since seedlings grow very slowly, and the end result can be a hosta without varietal characteristics.
A more popular way to propagate hosta is to divide the bush, which can be started in late April - early May. In other growing seasons, it is also possible nice results, but under the condition proper watering. The host has a large margin of safety and has a very high probability (almost 100%) of the survival of new plants, while dividing the bush in the middle of summer must necessarily be accompanied by regular watering.
When planting seedlings from pots in open ground, it must be well watered half an hour or an hour before planting. If at the same time as planting, the hosta bush needs to be divided, then it is divided so that each part remains with at least one leafy rosette.
Then, damaged or dried roots should be removed from delenki. In the holes prepared in advance at a distance of 25 centimeters from each other, it is necessary to transfer the seedlings from the pot along with a clod of earth or delenki. Then, having straightened the root system, cover everything with earth, tamp, water well and continue to water abundantly until the plants take root.
The whole process of dividing and planting hostas can be continued until almost mid-September, so that new plants have the opportunity to take root before the onset of cold weather. Usually, for the rooting of "beginners", a calendar month is needed, and in the spring the delenki will quickly grow and in a couple of years your site will be decorated with adult beautiful hosts.
Preparing for winter
After the hosts have faded and withered, it is advisable to cut off the dried leaves. Also in the fall, the soil around the plants should be loosened so that the larvae of harmful insects move from the ground to the surface, where they later die. Hostas are not afraid of frosts and temperature changes, they do not need protection from the cold and tolerate winter well.
Hostas are considered the "queens" of the shadow, because it is the shadow that allows them to become luxurious plants and delight the world around them with beautiful bright greenery. And the beautiful blue hostas are able to charm with their heavenly blue only growing in the shade. Moreover, it has long been noticed that the greater the shading, the brighter the blueness of the leaves of this variety, which in the bright sun can turn into a nondescript gray tint.
Hosta is a chameleon plant, the foliage of its many varieties is capable of changing color to such an extent that it is difficult to determine the original and this is often misleading for beginner gardeners. Experts advise, when choosing a favorite plant, to carefully study all the recommendations for care and strictly adhere to them, so that it does not turn out that one type of hosta was planted, another grew, and after a while it was reborn into a third, just the one that was originally chosen, but, unfortunately, this result is not always the case. One thing is for sure, charming hosta leaves can decorate almost any area, balcony or gazebo.
Introducing autumn hosta care and how to properly prepare your hosta for winter. We tell you whether to trim the leaves and when to trim the hosta. We also describe when the hosta emerges after winter.
Do hostas need winterization?
There is an opinion among gardeners that it is not necessary to carry out special preparations for the winter, as it tolerates cold well.
Sometimes their advice boils down to this: "Stop feeding in August, and the plant will prepare itself." Such a simple approach to preparing hosts for winter is highly questionable.
Despite the fact that the hosta is a rather unpretentious plant, the main factor is climate zone in which it grows.
The further north you live, the more seriously you need to approach winter preparation and autumn care for the host. Already in the conditions of the middle lane, preparing hosts for the winter is necessary.
- Plants need to grow and develop properly comfortable conditions for wintering.
Khosta: leaving in the fall and how to properly prepare for the winter?
And now more about how to care for the host in the fall and prepare the host for the winter. To begin with, after the end of flowering at the host, you need to cut off the flower stalks so that the plant does not waste energy on seed generation.
FEEDING HOSTA
Feed the host in early July, and then the last time in early August. Fertilizer should not be applied later than this period so that the hosta prepares for winter in a natural way.
MULCHING
We fall asleep at the base of the bushes with dry humus, sawdust or peat. In addition to protecting the roots from freezing, such a mulch is useful for a flower in the spring as an additional organic fertilizer.
It is advisable to add tobacco dust from snails and slugs to the mulch, and also treat it with "phytosporin" to protect against fungal and bacterial diseases.
- If you know that you have snails and slugs "frequent guests" and you often have to collect them manually, then this action is vital for you. After all, slugs and snails can cause serious damage to flowers in just a couple of days.
The main thing is not to use polyethylene film, roofing felt or other moisture- and air-tight materials as shelters. So that the plant does not rot and rot.
Do I need to prune hosta leaves for the winter?
Many flower growers believe that pruning of hosta leaves in the fall does not need to be done and the plant should begin to winter with its leaves.
Allegedly, pruning hosta leaves for the winter makes it weaker and less frost-resistant. It is advised to cut off the old leaves of the host in the spring, when the first shoots appear.
However, many experienced flower growers insist that the host should be cut in the fall.
When to prune the hosta for the winter?
When pruning hosta in the fall, the main thing is to wait for the leaves to turn yellow and at the same time be in time before the first frost. According to flower growers, pruning hosta leaves for the winter helps rid it of slugs and other pests.
The editorial staff of the Feast of Flowers magazine leans more towards the need for pruning leaves in the fall, but it is difficult for a novice florist to catch the right moment.
Therefore, the second method is more suitable for experienced flower growers.
- If you have a hosta growing in several places, then you can try both options and determine for yourself which one suits you best.
How to prepare the host for winter? Brief instruction
- Pruning flower stalks after flowering.
- The last top dressing of hosta in early August with phosphate-potassium fertilizer.
- Mulching with dry humus, peat or sawdust with the addition of tobacco dust and "phytosporin".
- Additional shelter for the hosta for the winter with spruce branches, brushwood or branches.
- Read more about leaf pruning above.
When does the hosta emerge after winter?
Hosta after winter rises quite late. Hosts are in no hurry to emerge from the ground in the spring and wait for the onset of stable heat.
Gardeners sometimes begin to think that they did not overwinter and died, but hostas often sprout late and pleasantly surprise, and grow rapidly and rapidly.
- Flower growers have noticed that the more exotic the variety, the later it sprouts. Moreover, it is not uncommon for a hosta growing in the shade to grow faster than those in the sun.
- Northwestern District, Moscow Region, Urals: end of May (one week after crocuses bloom). In the shade they can also emerge in early June.
- Gardeners report that in Sochi and in the Crimea, the host often sprouts already in early June.
Hosta is a very interesting shrub. It is distinguished by peculiar lovely flowers with a strong caramel smell. But its main advantage is juicy spreading leaves. In addition, the plant grows well without sunlight, so it is often planted under trees or in other shady places in the garden. An important component of the autumn care of the host, so that next season it will again please you with its spectacular appearance, is its proper preparation for the winter, namely pruning and shelter (mulching).
Features of leaving in the fall and preparing hosts for winter: the main activities
Many gardeners say that the host does not need special preparation and specific shelter from severe drops in temperature. But this reasoning is wrong. This formulation is only suitable for plants that are grown in the southern regions.
The plant tends to bloom in July-October, depending on the type and variety, therefore initial preparation for winter involves removing buds that have faded. Such an element of care for hostas in summer and autumn is necessary so that the plant does not expend its strength on the formation of seeds and their maturation.
By the way! If your hostas do not bloom quite beautifully (of the usual variety), then you can not let them bloom at all, but cut them off flowering arrows immediately after their appearance.
Hosta loves moisture and abundant watering. Moreover, you need to water it correctly so that the plant does not catch a fungal infection, and more specifically, try not to get on the leaves.
By the way! The host is able to independently signal the need for its watering, namely: it lowers its leaves to the ground. Moreover, do not allow the leaves to dry out.
During the autumn months, the hosta also needs watering. The soil under it should be shed abundantly so that the entire root system is saturated with life-giving moisture before wintering. When the temperature begins to drop, watering will need to be gradually reduced, and then completely stopped.
The last nitrogen fertilization is carried out in the first half of summer for more lush green growth. Before wintering, no nitrogen fertilizers are needed anymore, because they will provoke the growth of green mass and rhizomes of the plant, because of which it can overwinter poorly, and its resistance to diseases will certainly decrease.
To better prepare the plant for winter in the autumn, it needs phosphorus and potassium., so you can feed the host, for example, bone meal and wood ash(for lovers organic farming) or mineral fertilizers - potassium sulfate and superphosphate (30-40 grams of each per 1 sq. meter of beds) or special ready-made "autumn" fertilizer (according to instructions).
Advice! Mineral fertilizers are best dissolved in water (in 10 liters), and organic fertilizers are simply poured around the plant and then watered.
With the onset of cold weather, the hosts should be covered, or rather mulched. Mowed grass and peat are well suited for this (they need to be mixed so that the grass does not cake).
By the way! Sawdust absorbs a lot of moisture, and in winter it can be harmful.
Even in autumn you can share and transplant hostas You can learn more about this in the next video.
Video: how to divide and transplant a host in the fall
pruning hosts autumn
The question "Should I prune the host for the winter in the fall?" - is the cause of disputes for many flower growers.
Some argue that cutting foliage is highly discouraged. After all, it contains all the nutrients that must independently pass from the green to the root of the plant. And already at the end of this process, the tops naturally die off by themselves.
Others (inexperienced flower growers) argue that it is necessary to trim the leaves of the host for the winter.
So is it necessary to prune the host in the fall for the winter?
According to the majority experienced gardeners, this is a rather pointless procedure that can only be performed for aesthetic (decorative) purposes, because the plant winters well with leaves.
But if you still decide to prune the host for the winter, then when should this be done?
The main signal that the plant can be cut is when the leaves turn completely yellow. This means that all the nutrients have already been safely transferred to the root system.
How to prune hostas in autumn?
Take a pruner and cut off all the leaves, leaving about 10 cm stumps.
Important! In general, pruning is best done in the spring, or rather, you can just walk with a rake and remove the foliage that has died over the winter.
Video: why you do not need to cut the hosts in the fall
Shelter hosta for the winter
Many novice amateur gardeners are thinking about whether it is necessary to cover the host for the winter. It should be said right away that in cold regions the plant is really subject to shelter. However, the essence of this shelter comes down solely to mulching the area around the bush.
In general, hostas are quite frost-resistant plants, besides, you don’t need to save the aerial part, it grows again every year.
So what is the right way to cover the host for the winter?
Note! Obviously, you need to have time to mulch before the onset of frost.
Mulching (shelter) hosts in the fall should be performed in the following sequence:
- 1. Mix the mulch mixture. For example, it may consist of cut grass and peat(more). Also you can use bark or compost.
By the way! In principle, you can take the most common garden soil. But the use of grass, peat or compost will serve excellent organic fertilizer during the spring period.
2. Next, mulch the plant, falling asleep on all sides with a layer of 10-20 centimeters. Just don't put mulch on top of the leaves! Another thing, if you cut the leaves, then you can pour a mound. In general, for the winter, the host should leave with leaves that will finally fall down after dying off and become an additional shelter.
Important! Such a shelter is quite enough to protect the roots of the plant from severe frosts.
As a rule, you do not need to use special non-woven covering materials, such as agrofibre or spunbond.
Advice! In early spring, be sure to remove the mulch to allow the soil to warm up better and the plant to grow faster.
Features of preparing hosts for winter in different regions
Each region has its own nuances of growing plants, in particular hosts. But as for autumn care and preparation for winter, there are differences only in the features of shelter for the winter.
Important! If you have snowless winters, then you can play it safe and additionally cover with non-woven material or spruce branches.
In the south of Russia
Hostas that are grown in the southern regions (for example, in Krasnodar Territory), practically do not need shelter. Another thing is if you live in the Volgograd region, where there are quite strong and prolonged frosts.
The approximate timing of mulching (shelter) of the host in the southern regions is the last days of October - the first half of November.
In the middle lane (Moscow region)
In the conditions of the middle lane (Moscow region), it is necessary to cover the host for the winter. In this case, it will be quite enough to mulch the root area with a thick layer of peat mixed with mowed grass, or use bark or compost.
Approximate terms of shelter (mulching) hostas in central Russia (Moscow region) - the end of September - the first half of October.
In the Urals and Siberia
The conditions of the Urals and Siberia are characterized by severe frosts and sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, a shelter similar to the middle lane is also needed here. At the same time, for additional insulation you can throw snow masses on the plant or immediately cover with spruce branches.
Approximate terms of shelter (mulching) hostas in the Urals and Siberia - September.
Typical mistakes in caring for a hosta in the fall when preparing it for winter
Many gardeners, without thinking about the consequences, are able to take rash actions that can harm the plant. But improper autumn care for the host in the fall can cause quite a lot of damage to the plant.
There are several mistakes that should not be made when caring for a plant in the fall and preparing it for winter:
- Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers with the onset of autumn- nitrogen fertilization entails the activation of leaf growth, so the shrub will try to release young leaves, and not prepare to leave for winter rest.
- Lack of shelter (mulching) or, on the contrary, the use of special materials for shelter, especially moisture-proof ones. The thing is that hostas winter well just under a thick layer of mulch.
Thus, the autumn care of the host is not particularly difficult. To do this, you just need to know the rules for pruning it - cut off only flower stalks at the end of summer, and on autumn pruning leaves do not waste your precious time. Where better to do her shelter, or rather mulching.
Video: preparing hosts for winter
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Hosta is relatively unpretentious. It survives in the most shaded areas of the garden, does not require frequent watering and permanent transfers. However, the most difficult time for this plant is wintering. The awakening period and the condition of the bush in the spring depend on how correct the treatment was. Pruning varieties, top dressing, pest protection - all these are important steps in caring for the host in the fall and preparing it for the upcoming winter.
Although the bush is perennial, surviving even in cold and not very snowy winters, damage is inevitable if at least minimal processing is not carried out. Trimming the entire hosta or not is a moot point for most gardeners, however, this is far from the only mandatory action that needs to be planned.
pruning
Pruning is understood as either the removal of flower stalks, or a cut of all leaves. The first must be done at the end of summer. The plant is decorative and deciduous, does not give beautiful lush buds, its flowering is extremely practical, aimed at scattering seeds. To get lush foliage, the flowers are removed immediately after the first yellow patches appear or a few days after they appear. If, nevertheless, they remained until autumn, they must be cut off before winter.
On a note!
Hosts are not cut to the root. It is necessary to leave a "leg" 5-7 centimeters long from the root.
Gardeners who advocate pruning refer to the fact that in this way the plant has time to accumulate more juice in the roots, due to which they become more resilient and survive the winter more easily. In the spring, the bush is no longer burdened with old leaves, does not waste time dropping them, but immediately begins to grow new ones. In addition, last year's growth can cause infection with various infections, can attract pests, this will negatively affect young greens, spoil appearance hosts.
Opponents of pruning, in turn, remind that the leaves under a layer of snow will turn into compost. They will be a good mulch for the soil, they will bring the first nutrients that the plant needs so much in the spring. Importantly, untimely pruning of any hosta can be very dangerous. It is important that all sections have time to close before the onset of the first cold weather. If you do not carry out this procedure at all, the risk of freezing is minimal.
Professional breeders feel that preparing the hosta for the coming winter and shelter can be limited to partial pruning. This is the safest option, although full processing is acceptable. This means that only sluggish and yellow leaves, flower stalks and stems with suspected diseases can be removed, and the rest can be left. It is impossible to completely abandon this procedure, this can lead to the death of the bush.
Shelter
Hosta of any variety must be covered in autumn if temperatures drop below minus 10 degrees. This procedure is aimed at the formation of an increased snow cover, the insulation itself is not required as such. You can refuse shelter in the southern regions.
It is important to choose the right material. The bush remains “alive” even under the snow, so the roofing material, polyethylene film not suitable: moisture will accumulate under them, the air flow will be blocked, the bush will rot. You can use:
- agrofibre;
- burlap;
- spruce branches.
First, the soil is carefully mulched, then the bush is completely covered, leaving a small “skirt” on the ground. Some gardeners increase the layers of shelter in the area where the root system is located under the soil. If the bush is sprawling, additional materials are pressed with thick branches, and the “crown” is pulled together with a tourniquet or twine. It is reliable wind protection.
AT northern regions multi-layer cover required. Hostas are prepared for the long winter cold by covering the roots with a layer of peat, covering them with spruce branches, and protecting them with large-pore geotextile from above. After the first snowfall in any region, you need to fill the bush yourself. Thus, even with a small amount of rainfall, the host will be protected.
On a note!
Sprinkling with snow allows you to additionally moisten the soil around the plant in spring, slow down the thawing and, accordingly, protect it from severe spring frosts.
Terms of preparation
Planting and caring for a hosta in the open field is the main method for most regions. Regardless of the region, the preparation time is calculated in the same way. After pruning, top dressing and the last watering, 2-3 weeks should pass before the first frost. If all the work cannot be completed, it is better to refuse to remove the leaves and limit yourself to pruning the peduncles.
In the Moscow region and Central Russia, there is no need for a major shelter for bushes. You can limit yourself to careful mulching and pruning. You can carry out these works from mid-September to mid-October. In the Volga region, special attention should be paid to wind protection, since large bushes may not be able to withstand such a load.
In the conditions of the climate of the Urals, it is necessary to take into account forecasts for each specific year. As a rule, snow cover appears immediately here, the first frosts begin at the end of October. Therefore, the preparation of hosts must begin in mid-September and be completed no later than the first days of October. Special attention mulching should be given, the shelter can be single-layer. If, according to the forecast, a little snowy winter is expected, it is better to make several layers of protection and cover with additional snow.
Contrary to popular belief, hostas thrive in Siberian winter conditions. A thick layer of snow becomes for them the best protection. In areas closer to Far East, the amount of precipitation is less, and the cold winds are stronger, which should be taken into account when preparing. The best option shelters - spruce branches, which are folded after careful mulching. If severe frosts are expected, an additional bush can be showered with soil mixed with straw. In areas with a serious wind load, it is necessary to additionally use agrofibre. Preparation must be completed by mid-September so that the first frosts do not spoil the root system.
On a note!
Agrofibre is a durable material that can withstand even the strongest winds. Unlike film, it is breathable.
Milder winters are in Leningrad region, however, here the snow often does not linger, periodically melts until January. Therefore, it is important to carefully mulch the roots, cover and tie up the bush, especially if it is large enough and mature. All work is carried out until mid-October, it is permissible to cover the host in early November, however, pruning must be completed by the 15th of October.
Common Mistakes
Although hostas are considered among the most unpretentious, even small care errors, especially in autumn, can significantly slow down the development of the bush and its growth. Most often, the root system dies precisely because of frost, in second place is the impact of pests that are looking for food in a harsh climate. Therefore, you should avoid:
- untimely transplants;
- late pruning;
- overdrying of the soil;
- greenhouse effect.
It is undesirable to replant the shrub after the month of August. During this time, the roots will not have time to strengthen, they will be weakened, so wintering is unlikely to go well. The ideal time to move the hosta is spring. Late pruning is also undesirable, it is better to completely abandon this procedure.
After September, it is not recommended to use nitrogen fertilizers. Hosta should go into a kind of “hibernation” at the end of summer, accumulate juices in the root system, while nitrogen will stimulate the growth of new leaves. In frost, they will not survive, and the entire bush will be weakened. Sufficient quantity moisture is the main factor that will affect the condition of the roots of the host. If the soil is dry, wintering will be very difficult, especially for young plantings.
You can kill the entire bush by choosing the wrong covering material. Ruberoid seems reliable protection because of its thickness, the film does not let through gusts of cold wind and is inexpensive. However, both lead to the creation of the greenhouse effect. Moisture accumulates inside, after which the drops can freeze, damaging the ground part of the host. Excess moisture will lead to the appearance of mold and fungi.
On a note!
Geofabrics are the best alternative to film. They can be used for several seasons in a row. Buying a large canvas will allow you to cover several bushes at once, but you will need to tie each of them.
Preliminary processing
By following the rules on how to prepare your favorite hosts for winter, you can achieve a quick spring awakening. Particular attention should be paid to top dressing, mulching and last watering. In terms of timing, you need to focus on annual forecasts and the average climate, but general rules pre-treatment are universal.
Hosts respond best to complex supplements in the fall, while all stimulant drugs should be excluded. It is optimal to fertilize immediately after watering or rain, in moist soil. In autumn, only the root method of fertilizing is left; foliar fertilizing is no longer required, since the leaves do not need to develop during this period. You can use superphosphates and potassium concentrates, 30-40 grams per 1 square meter of soil, dissolve according to the instructions.
In winter, caterpillars and beetles pose a particular danger to the bush. Slugs and snails are practically inactive during this period. You can protect yourself from all these pests using simple folk remedies. For example, before shelter, sprinkle the entire area under the crown of leaves with chopped eggshell. In the spring, this layer will be a source of calcium useful for hosts. With the awakening of the bush, one of the most dangerous pests is activated - nematodes. It is impossible to destroy them, so even before shelter, you should check the leaves. Finely chop one hosta branch, put it in a glass, pour water over it and leave it in the light for a couple of hours. After carefully consider: if there are small white worms in the water, the bush must be urgently dug up so that in the spring it does not infect the rest of the plantings.
On a note!
Mulching hostas before wintering is a must. For this, a mixture of peat, sawdust and dry humus in equal proportions is well suited. As a result, you need to get a dense layer with a thickness of at least 1 centimeter. The stronger the frost and the less snow cover, the more mulch is needed. If there are a lot of slugs and snails on the site, you need to add tobacco dust and phytosporin to the mixture. The first will protect against pests, the second from fungi carried by these creatures. In the spring, mulch will become a full-fledged fertilizer.
When determining whether it is necessary to cover hostas of any variety for the winter, how to process them, you should be guided simple advice. Pruning is carried out only with sharp secateurs. It is unacceptable to manually cut off even yellow leaves and dry flower stalks, use blunt knives or scissors. Ragged edges do not heal for a long time, attracting pests. The bush will spend a lot of energy on their healing, which will weaken the host before winter.
Mulch is most often left under a bush after winter, but if the warming is weak, spring is late, it is better to remove this layer. So, the soil warms up, the bush will grow, it will pick up juices faster. This applies to both variegated varieties and more whimsical blue species.
Bushes are not afraid of the weight of snow, so during the winter you can throw it more than once on a shelter. The bigger the hat, the better. Although the host is not afraid of frost, she still loves warmth much more.
Proper preparation for winter is important for any variety of hosta. Compliance simple rules will allow even young bushes to be preserved, the grower will be able to see rapid annual growth. Regardless of the type of pruning, be sure to pay attention to proper feeding, abundant watering. These procedures are not time-consuming, but they need to be scheduled for a certain time, depending on the region of landing.