In many apartments, old, still Soviet-made, furniture that has long gone out of fashion, outdated physically and morally, cluttering up the space of already very small rooms, has been preserved. However, at the same time, it should be noted that most often the material from which it is made has retained good quality, and it can be used to build modern options cabinets and bookshelves.
If you remember furniture walls with numerous cabinets, drawers and cabinets, you can easily imagine how many panels of different sizes can be obtained in order to make more compact, comfortable and modern pieces of furniture. How to make built-in furniture in a modern design, spending a minimum of money on it, and at the same time freeing rooms from bulky outdated structures will be discussed further.
Before proceeding to the following sections, it is advisable to understand what advantages built-in furniture made by yourself has.
- If the furniture is made from the material that will be obtained as a result of dismantling old cabinets or other pieces of furniture, then you can get significant savings in the family budget.
- Everyone knows that even in panel houses, the walls often do not differ in perfect evenness. Well, with the help of built-in furniture, you can perfectly disguise this flaw, and, again, save on construction work for leveling surfaces.
- The owners are given a great opportunity to show their creativity in the development of the project, and then reproduce their own design and engineering solution, making the most comfortable piece of furniture for use.
- Serious savings in the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room are achieved. Almost every apartment has areas in which it is difficult to fit standard pieces of furniture, and for those items that will be made to order, you will have to pay double the price. Developing own project, you can provide for all the nuances and dimensions of the area where the cabinet or shelf will be built in.
- And, of course, hand-made furniture will give you a well-founded reason to be proud of your amateur talents.
Materials for the manufacture of built-in furniture
In addition to chipboard panels, inherited from dismantled cabinets, other materials can be used to make furniture.
- Today, drywall is extremely popular, from which not only built-in wardrobes are built, but even entire walls with niches and cabinets for one or even two rooms. This material has won such wide distribution due to the simplicity of its processing and the availability of installation, which can be carried out even by novice craftsmen who do not have experience. It is also attracted by its low price and environmental friendliness.
Try to innovate the interior of the room with drywall!
How to work with this material, quickly and easily creating various designs, you can find out from a special publication of our portal dedicated to self-construction.
- Natural wood has traditionally been an excellent material for making furniture. The old masters managed to build cabinets without a single nail, and some of these pieces of furniture, made at the beginning of the last century, are still in use. Wood has many very important advantages over other materials - it is environmental friendliness, natural pattern and relief, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.
- Plywood is another material that can also be used to make built-in furniture. Often it is used in combination with wood, sheathing frames with plywood and making panels. The plywood manufacturing process involves the use of glue, so it cannot be called a 100% environmentally friendly material, although there are varieties with a minimum, almost zero emission of phenol-containing substances.
- Chipboard is a board made from sawdust and shavings, which are mixed with glue and then shaped by pressing. Then the plates are given an aesthetic appearance by lamination or veneering. Such boards can be harmless to health or dangerous, depending on the adhesive that was used in their manufacture. Soviet furniture most often consists of plates produced in accordance with GOST under strict control, so it can be called relatively safe compared to modern products completely unknown origin. If furniture boards are purchased in a store, you should pay attention to the environmental safety group - for living rooms you need E0 or E1.
- In addition to materials for the manufacture of furniture, it is necessary to choose modern fittings that are suitable for design - handles, locks, canopies, guides, rollers, hangers, etc. There will be no problems with these furniture accessories, since today they can be found in specialized hardware stores for every request and taste.
Where can you install built-in furniture?
Built-in furniture is a great way out in small or one-room apartments. It can be fixed, as mentioned above, near walls that have never been used to install cabinets along them. In addition, it will fit perfectly into the wall, which has small area surface and too small to fit a standard cabinet. These areas of the rooms mainly include external walls, with window openings located in them, and internal - with a door frame located in the center.
They usually try to close the wall around the window with curtains, without even thinking that it can be functional - this is what the vast majority of apartment owners do. However, if a complex of shelves is fixed on its surface, which has a shallow depth sufficient to accommodate books, then the design does not fit the same curtains and cornices. They may well be fixed not only on the ceiling, but also on the panels. upper shelves. By installing such a design, you can immediately see what area of the room will be freed from cabinets, and plan it for other needs.
This wall of the room can only be used if it is absolutely dry, without the appearance of mold formations, otherwise the pathogenic microflora will quickly move to the books, and its spores will soar in the air of the rooms, which is quite dangerous for human health.
Paper is an excellent insulator, and books placed tightly together on shelves will create a kind of heat-insulating barrier, so the room will become warmer.
Another common option for installing built-in wardrobes is the area of \u200b\u200bwalls around interior or entrance doors. By fixing the furniture in this way, two problems can be solved - saving space and additional soundproofing of the room.
Calculation of dimensions and drawing up a drawing
Once you've chosen a location for your cabinet or shelving, you can start planning your shelves and doors. The process of making a sketch and a drawing with exact dimensions can be done using special applications - they can be found on the Internet. In the event that this path seems difficult, then an ordinary sheet of paper, a pencil, a ruler will do.
The first calculation option will be more accurate, since the program will calculate not only all the parameters of the cabinet, but also the quantity, and even the approximate cost of parts and fittings.
Video: an example of designing a built-in wardrobe using a specialized application
The self-planning method helps to understand all the nuances right on the spot, makes it possible to immediately make necessary adjustments. But you will have to work very carefully on the drawing, since all the necessary details will be made according to it. Particular care in drawing up the diagram will be required if the parts are made according to it to order, in the workshop.
If a piece of built-in furniture will be constructed from chipboard, plywood or massive board having approximately the same thickness, then the drawing for them is drawn up in the same way. In the case of using drywall for the manufacture of a cabinet or shelves, calculations are carried out taking into account the width metal profiles, from which the frame will be mounted, since the narrowest of them is 50 mm wide and 27 mm deep.
Built-in wardrobe with rear panel
Such a cabinet can be made of chipboard, plywood or solid board with a thickness of 16 mm. Built-in furniture is equipped with a back panel that covers the wall surface, or the interior wall itself serves as it.
This cabinet model has a height of 2600 mm, a width of 2400 mm and a depth of 650 mm. This design provides for a rear panel, but it is quite possible and easy to fix the cabinet to the wall.
Parts for cabinet assembly
For such a cabinet, you will need to make the following parts:
| the name of detail | Part size, mm | Number of parts, pcs. | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Length | Width | Height | ||
| Side walls | 2584 | 650 | 2 | |
| Internal vertical partitions | 2568 | 550 | 2 | |
| Bottom panel of the cabinet | 2068 | 650 | 1 | |
| Ceiling panel of cabinet with rounded corner | 2584 | 650 | 1 | |
| Vertical panel extending outside the cabinet | 2600 | 308 | 1 | |
| Horizontal side shelves round corner | 634 | 285 | 3 | |
| Drawers | 2568 | 586 | 220 | 3 |
| Bottom horizontal shelves | 650 | 400 | 1 | |
| 800 | 400 | 1 | ||
| Top horizontal shelves | 650 | 550 | 1 | |
| 800 | 550 | 1 | ||
| Horizontal shelves above drawers | 550 | 586 | 5 | |
| Back panels made of plywood or fiberboard (5 mm thick) | 2600 | 665 | 1 | |
| 2600 | 816 | 1 | ||
| 2600 | 610 | 1 | ||
| Compartment door panels | 2600 | 694 | 1 | |
| 2560 | 669 | 2 | ||
| Roller set | 2 sets | |||
| Guide rails for drawers | 550 | 6 pairs | ||
| Shelf holders | 44 | |||
| Metal tubes with a diameter of 15 mm | 816 | 1 | ||
| 665 | 1 | |||
| Drawer details: | ||||
| Front and back walls | 586 | 220 | 6 | |
| Side walls | 518 | 220 | 6 | |
| Bottom panel (plywood or fiberboard) | 586 | 550 | 3 | |
| Guides for compartment doors with two lines of skids for movement | 2068 | 50 | Kit (upper and lower) | |
Parts manufacturing
The manufacture of parts for any furniture design is a rather complex and time-consuming process that requires not only high accuracy, a certain skill and increased accuracy, but also the presence special tools to work on preparations.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | The first step is marking chipboard panels with transferring the dimensions from the drawing project to them and drawing cut lines. Next, all the details of the cabinet are cut out. It should be noted that if the cut will be made hand saw it will take a lot of time and effort. Therefore, the work will go faster and more accurately if it is carried out with the help of an electric circular saw or, in extreme cases, an electric jigsaw. In order for the edge to turn out to be even, without burrs, the cut must be made with a saw with fine teeth. In addition, it is recommended to stick masking tape along the edge of the saw line, which will protect the laminated edge from chipping. If the edges still turned out to be not quite even, they must be trimmed with a file, rasp or planer. If you want to get a perfectly even edge of the parts or the model has rounded corners and other pattern configurations, then it is better to contact the workshop, where there is special equipment that produces accurate, up to a millimeter, cutting of any shape. |
 | If the furniture will be made from panels obtained as a result of dismantling the old wall, and the height of the panels will not be enough to build the intended project, then they will have to be increased. |
 | The connection of individual sheets can be done in different ways - this is a “groove-thorn”, using dowels, or using a special docking bar, in which two separate parts of the panel are glued on both sides. The last connection method is the easiest, and is available even for an inexperienced master. |
 | In this model of a case the regiments having the rounded-off corner are projected. To cut it beautifully, it is necessary to draw a curved cut line using a construction or impromptu compass. When sawing off rounded corners, use a jigsaw, showing special care. |
 | Sawn parts are numbered and signed. If there is an appropriate tool, all the edges of the parts are finished by milling. Then the finished parts are installed to the wall, following a certain sequence, in order to simplify the search for the desired structural element. |
 | The outer end sides of the panels are glued with PVC edges specially designed for this purpose. The edges are fixed on the end face using a layer of glue applied to them, which begins to show its adhesive qualities after heating. To do this, the edge is applied to the end of the panel and smoothed with a heated iron. After the panels are processed and ready for assembly, they mark the points of connection with other parts, as well as fix the fittings. |
After the manufacture of all parts, their processing and marking, the cabinet is assembled in accordance with the drawing.
If the cabinet or rack will have a back panel, which will give the product additional rigidity, then after connecting all the structural elements to it from the back side, sheets of the back wall are fixed to the ends of the panels, which are most often made of fiberboard or plywood with a thickness of 3 ÷ 5 mm . If the back wall is not planned, then the cabinet frame will have to be fixed to the wall.
The presented cabinet can be assembled in different ways, and which one to choose is up to the master himself. Much in this case depends on the quality of the wall. To understand how the assembly is carried out, both installation options will be considered below.
Assembling a cabinet with a back panel
The assembly of the cabinet, fastened with the back panel, occurs in the following sequence:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step at the place where the cabinet will be, its bottom part is set according to the level. Unfortunately, the floors are not always even, therefore, if necessary, small wooden linings are installed at one or two corners. In this case, it is advisable to immediately fix the exposed bottom of the cabinet to the floor surface. |
 | You can, of course, fix adjustable legs in the corners and in the middle part of the bottom panel, but this is done if the floor height differences are very significant. In addition, you need to take into account the height of the cabinet. If it is close to the height of the ceiling, then the legs for the structure will not work, and you will have to use wooden linings. The front end side of the floor panel must be glued with a PVC edge. |
 | Further, after marking, on the vertical panels of the cabinet, it is necessary to prepare holes for installing shelf holders, if they are removable, or for furniture corners, if the shelves are fixed permanently. The latter mounting method will make the structure more rigid. |
 | Another way to fix shelves on the vertical panels of the cabinet is to use eccentric screws. This fastener is more accurate and almost hidden from view, but it is more difficult to drill holes for it, as it requires perfect accuracy. |
 | In addition, skids for drawers are fixed along the drawn lines on the walls. |
 | If sockets or a switch are mounted on the wall near which the cabinet will be installed, and it will close them from the cabinet panels, holes of the desired size and shape are marked and drilled in it with a drill or jigsaw. |
 | The next step is the installation along the vertical wall lines marked on the bottom panel. They will have to be temporarily supported on the sides, since they will not hold on only to the lower mounts. To keep them in the desired vertical position, several horizontal transverse shelves should be fixed without much delay. Since this design has side rounded shelves, in order to fix them, it is necessary to connect the extreme vertical panel and the board adjacent to the wall at a right angle. The board is fixed with the end side to the outer side wall using eccentric screws from the back side of the structure. |
 | Having fastened two vertical panels at right angles, you need to immediately install the side shelves. They are mounted on the side vertical wall of the cabinet with the help of dowels mounted on glue, and on the wall panel - with the help of confirmations (Euro screws), which are screwed in from the back of the panel. |
 | Then, the top panel-roof of the cabinet is installed and fixed - it is most often mounted using eccentrics. If the top panel is raised to the very ceiling, then through it you can fix the cabinet on the ceiling. |
 | Another way to fix the top panel, as well as horizontal shelves on vertical partitions, can be furniture corners. After installing the top panel, all other shelves and hanger rods are fixed. |
 | Further, according to the dimensions indicated in the table, three drawers are made. For a more accurate joining of the corners of the box elements, quarters can be selected along their edges. Drawers can have one front panel or two - internal and front. By installing a double front panel, the drawer handle will hold more firmly. In the lower part of the side, front and rear walls, slit-like grooves are cut into which the bottom of the box will slide. |
 | So the build goes like this: - first fasten the front and side panels of the box; - then the bottom part is pushed into their grooves; - and only after that the back panel is installed on the glue, which is additionally fixed with furniture screws. It should be noted here that you can use ready-made drawers of a disassembled furniture wall, replacing only the front panel with them. In this case, when drawing up a project, it is necessary to immediately take into account all their parameters. |
 | On the side walls of the boxes, you need to fix the second part of the roller guide system with self-tapping screws. |
 | Guides can be fixed at the bottom or middle of the sidebar. In order not to be mistaken in the correctness of their fastening, it is necessary to try on the boxes in the cabinet walls, based on the dimensions given in the drawing. |
 | Next, handles are selected for the boxes. For them drilled through holes in the centers of the front panels, and then the handles are screwed from the inside of the drawer. |
 | The next step is the installation of guides for sliding doors. This model has three doors: - medium, installed on the first line of rails, and having the ability to move to any side of the cabinet; - two side doors, each of which, when opened, can reach the other along the second line of guides. |
 | According to the markings, the upper rail for the movement of the flaps is fixed on the ceiling panel of the cabinet, and then the lower rail, on the floor panel. Further, spring-loaded rollers are fixed on the doors, allowing you to easily install the wings in the fixed guide rails. |
If desired or necessary, the structure can be fixed not only to the floor and ceiling, but also to the wall through the side panel of the cabinet adjacent to it from the inside of the structure.
About the installation of sliding doors was said in passing. But this is extremely important point which requires comprehensive consideration. It is simply more expedient to refer the reader to detailed specialized instructions.
How to assemble and install wardrobe doors yourself?
For such furniture items, special components are sold in stores. Very detailed illustrated instructions for self assembly and adjustment - in a special publication of our portal.
Built-in wardrobe fixed directly to the wall
This section of the article will look at ways to fix the same cabinet (or any other) to the wall, without using the back panel. As mentioned above, this option is perfect for hiding the uneven walls of the room.
Parts for cabinets are made and processed in the same way as in the previous version or when choosing a different model. Their list and dimensions also remain unchanged, with the exception of the rear panel.
You can replenish the list of materials with metal corners, with which the cabinet walls will be fixed to the wall, or with a beam that can replace the corners and act as a wall frame. It should be noted that if the shelves of the cabinet are open, then it is better to use metal corners or profile - these elements look more aesthetically pleasing than timber.
To understand how such installation is carried out, you need to consider its options in more detail.
The first option is a prefabricated panel structure
This cabinet can be both open and closed with sliding doors. Installation of shelves in this case occurs with the help of metal corners. Work on its installation takes place in the following order:
- The first step is to draw up a cabinet project with the compartments that will be needed - these can be book shelves, a wardrobe compartment or drawers designed for other needs. The project takes actual dimensions on a smaller scale - this is necessary in order not to be mistaken in the width or height of the arrangement of certain parts. Moreover, it is better to make two copies of the project - on one of them put down the dimensions of the location of the parts on the wall, and on the other - the parameters of the structural elements themselves.
- Further, from a copy of the project, which shows how and where the vertical walls, as well as the top and bottom panels (if they are provided) will be fixed in the first place, the places of their fixation are transferred to the wall. They must be determined by drawing accurate vertical lines - along a plumb line.
- The floor panel of the cabinet is fixed to the floor first, on which vertical partitions can be fixed.
- Then, in the places of the drawn lines, the verticality of the wall plane is determined. To do this, you will need to prepare a perfectly even beam with a cross section of approximately 50 × 50 mm and a length almost equal to the height of the ceiling of the room, and a building level, or level, having a length of at least 2500 mm.
A level is attached to the wall, in the indicated place, and with the help of it the difference in surface drops is determined. If it is about 3 mm, then this will not greatly affect the installation of panels - even if a small gap forms, then with the built-in version of the cabinet it will be almost invisible.
- In the event that the wall even visually looks uneven, there are two ways to hide this flaw - to level the wall with plaster or drywall, or to fit the furniture panels of the side walls to the wall. Fitting will have to be carried out gradually, cutting off from the panel that part that prevents it from completely pressing against the wall. Therefore, that side of it, which will adjoin the wall, will become uneven, but Front edge- perfectly leveled.
- If the cabinet is mounted between two walls, then it is quite possible to completely abandon the extreme vertical panels, installing only internal partitions.
- When the vertical panels are fitted to the wall, they should immediately be fixed in their places so that you can start marking the horizontal shelves, ceiling and floor front strips. To fix the vertical panels on them in three or four places, on both sides, metal corners are screwed. Then, the panel is leveled in relation to the walls, and through the holes in the corners, places are marked on them for drilling holes into which the dowel will be driven in and fasteners screwed in.
- Further, if it is planned to install compartment doors on the built-in wardrobe, then on the ceiling and floor or bottom panel, bars or strips are marked and fixed parallel to each other, which determine the width of the internal space and are designed to fix the guide rails for walking doors.
- The next step, between the vertical internal partitions and walls, according to the drawing, is the marking of the location of the horizontal shelves. They, as in the previous version of the cabinet, are fixed to furniture corners to vertical panels and walls. Horizontal shelves will tie the whole structure, fix it to the walls and give it rigidity.
- Next, the hanger rods are mounted, the skids for the boxes, if any, the boxes themselves are made according to the size of the project and installed in place.
- The final stage is the assembly and installation of compartment doors.
The second option - with a frame made of timber
This design is used for the construction of a built-in wardrobe most often, since it is the easiest to work with.
To build it, first a frame is mounted from a wooden beam according to the markings on the wall, which immediately determines the dimensions of the cabinet, that is, its height, width and depth. When these quantities are known, it is easier to carry out further process fixing the remaining elements of the cabinet and its lining with one of the selected materials.
A durable wooden frame can be sheathed not only with chipboard, but also with plywood, wooden or laminated fiberboard clapboard, as well as PVC panels- this criterion is chosen by the home master himself, taking into account financial possibilities, design ideas and the level of experience with this or that material.
It is much easier to attach both corners and panels to a wooden beam, so work after the construction of the frame will go quickly enough. The marking of horizontal shelves occurs in the same way as in the previous versions, and vertical partitions usually always form a bar. Due to a more durable design, such cabinets can be equipped not only with compartment doors, but also with hinged ones - in some cases, the second option is preferable to the first.
The third option - with aluminum profiles
Installation of a built-in wardrobe using this technology can also be done independently if it is possible to manufacture all the necessary parts for the structure. An important condition when choosing the presented option for building a cabinet is that it can only be installed between two walls, that is, in enough narrow room, but over its entire width.
With such an approach
de for fastening the panels to the wall, an aluminum U-shaped profile is used, having a gap width between the shelves 1 ÷ 2 mm greater than the thickness of the chipboard panels from which all other elements of the cabinet are made. In the presented model, the profile width is 16 mm, with a panel thickness of 15 mm.
The panels fit neatly into the profile and often do not require additional fixing at all. In those places where the shelves will have a higher load, the bottom profile is additionally reinforced with a small chipboard panel.
The installation of the cabinet takes place in the same sequence as at the beginning of the assembly of any structure fixed to the wall:
- Drawing up a project.
- Production of cabinet parts.
- Marking the wall surface with a plumb line, level, ruler and tape measure.
- Fastening to the wall according to the marking of the metal profile.
- Laying and fixing the floor panel and screwing profiles to it for the installation of vertical panels.
- Installation of vertical partitions - they slide into the profile fixed on the wall and on the floor panel.
- Next, the fitting of the upper horizontal panel is done, and the location of the vertical partitions is marked on it. Then, it is removed, and profiles are also screwed to it, which will hold the partitions in their upper part. After that, the top panel is finally installed.
- Then, in the same way, all other horizontal shelves are mounted. They are installed in profiles that are fixed on the wall and to vertical panels. When the horizontal shelves are fixed, the structure will become more rigid and durable.
- If the project includes the installation of drawers, then they must be installed between two chipboard panels, since without support on both sides they may not withstand the load. Therefore, this must be taken into account when designing.
- In the considered design example, compartment doors are planned, therefore, two-track guides are fixed for them on the ceiling and the bottom of the cabinet to move them, since both doors must move in one direction and the other.
- The last step is to mount the movable door leaves and test them.
At the end of the publication - another clear example of a high-quality assembly of a built-in wardrobe:
Video: assembling a built-in wardrobe without a back wall
So, if you have the necessary tools, assembling built-in furniture with your own hands is a completely doable task. Seems much more difficult quality manufacturing all design details. It is best to carry out this process professional tools, which are not found in every home. Therefore, having completed and thoroughly checked the drawing, having all necessary materials, it is better to order their cutting and processing in a carpentry workshop - it will be much faster and more accurate. And with high-quality, well-fitted parts, the installation process becomes a real pleasure.
It is considered very functional and necessary furniture in the apartment. Almost all your things that were previously scattered throughout the room will fit here. If you decorate such a product with beautiful mirrored doors, then it can become a source of pride for the owner. It turns out that for our craftsmen, making a wardrobe with their own hands is not a very difficult task.
How to assemble your own wardrobe?
- The first thing we do is design. We are building a virtual version of our wardrobe, adding shelves, doors. You can draw all the details with a pencil in the old fashioned way, but in our age there are special programs that facilitate calculations (Basis-Mebelshchik, PRO100, pro2cut, cutting3). They allow you to imagine the end result much better.
- Having received the specification, we can either order the necessary blanks for the frame and shelves, or by purchasing chipboard, cut them out ourselves.
- You can assemble your wardrobe only if you have necessary tool- drills, screwdrivers, clamps, corners, drills for confirmations, screws.
- We expose the plates and make markings at the place where the holes for the screws are drilled (about 7 cm from the edge at the top and bottom and at least 9 mm from the edge of the plate).
- We use a special drill, which in one pass can make an exact hole for confirmation and at the same time chamfer.
- Having fixed one corner, we mark the location of the shelves in accordance with the drawings.
- We clamp the shelf with clamps, setting everything strictly in the center of the markup, and only after that we drill holes.
- The same way attach the rest of the shelves to the wall.
- We put the assembled frame vertically and nail the back wall of fiberboard.
- Now that we have the exact size of the opening, it is much easier to order a sliding door mechanism. It consists of the following parts:
Do-it-yourself wardrobe door assembly
- This responsible work should be done on a flat table. It is desirable to have access to all sides of the product.
- On vertical racks-handles we drill holes with a diameter of 6.5 mm and 10 mm. With a thin drill we pass through both jumpers through, and with a diameter of 10 mm only the upper jumper. In this part, the upper profile of the doors will be attached.
- In the lower part of the profile, we perform similar actions, having already drilled two holes with a diameter of 6.5 mm and 10 mm. The first hole is located from the edge at 7 mm, and the second at 43 mm. In the first, the profile fixing screw will be attached, and in the second, the screw holding the roller will be inserted.
- On the other side of the door, we drill the same holes symmetrically.
- We start the assembly process from the top. We put a sealant on the mirror and insert it into the profile.
- Then, in this way, we put on the seal and the profile on the vertical side of the mirror.
- The upper jumper must go strictly into the groove of the vertical rack. Then they can be fixed by inserting the screw into the holes made earlier.
- At first, do not tighten the screw to the end. We insert the rollers and only then tighten the screw completely.
- Tighten the top screw at the bottom of the door.
- We fill the lower roller into the groove, compress the spring and tighten the fixing screw. The same screw adjusts the door itself. Depending on the tension of the screw, the roller either goes out or enters the inner groove.
- We install guides on the wardrobe body.
- First, in the lower guide we put the springs-clamps that hold the door at the extreme points.
- We fasten the lower guide after the door is set strictly according to the level.
- We put brushes, straps for hangers and check the operation of the doors. This is where the instruction on how to make a closet yourself ends. We wish all readers to try their luck and install the same comfortable and functional furniture in their own apartment.
Sliding wardrobes are popular regardless of the footage of the apartment and the income of the owners. Attracts the convenience of their use, the ability to adapt to the conditions of the room. It is quite possible to make them yourself if you know the design features, calculations and installation.
Types of sliding wardrobes - from what material, where to install
It is easier to make a rectangular wardrobe with your own hands, radius ones with a curved surface are within the power of professionals. The most convenient place for installation is a niche. The attractiveness of this location is that an inconvenient place becomes useful, practically without affecting the living space.
Installation in the opening between rooms saves the cost of the partition and its finishing, and the built-in closet separates the rooms. The compartment can be installed in the corridor against the wall, which is especially beneficial for small apartments: Does not take up much space, which is not enough.
Cabinet sliding wardrobes are also used for zoning rooms. They do not have a back side, they have two front ones, access to the wardrobe from both sides. small room do not overload with furniture, use the standard one. in the hallway large sizes can be installed spacious wardrobe. If the area allows, then you can easily realize the dream of every woman - the closet turns into a dressing room. Costs increase with size. Below is a diagram of a large closet for the hallway.
Many materials are suitable for the compartment, among them - laminate, lining, MDF. Only in this case it is necessary to make frames for door leaf from wood. They use chipboard, which is convenient for installation due to its large size. The use of drywall is possible, but the material is fragile, does not withstand heavy loads, sags noticeably without reliable fastening. A simple option is to use an old closet with swing doors replaced with sliding ones.
Room measurements - how to avoid installation difficulties
Making furniture requires right angles, and the walls of rooms with such accuracy are rare. Deviations from rectangular shape can be centimeters, but even a few millimeters can cause installation difficulties. This is especially true for niches, where builders very rarely maintain a right angle.
Measurements are carried out at several points, the results are recorded. We retreat 20 cm from the back wall and mark the measurement points on parallel walls. We consider the height from the floor: the first points are at a distance of 0.8 m, the second - 1.4 m and the third - 2.2 m. Then we retreat from the first measurements by 30 cm and take another one at the same height. Deviations will have to be corrected with plaster. Walls in a niche can be primed with a water-based emulsion, and then painted with acrylic enamel and forget about dust on the surface for many years.
We check the horizontalness of the floor and ceiling with a level, and there may be problems with the rectangularity of the opening. You can’t measure it yourself with a lace, and the accuracy is too low. We use a simple fixture of two rails with pointed ends. We fasten them in the middle with rubber rings, insert them diagonally into the opening, at the point of convergence we make a continuous mark with a pencil on the surface of both rails. We check another angle and look at the marks: the difference in the thickness of the risks is 0.3–0.4 mm.
Dimensional calculation - influence on cabinet design
Before installing the cabinet in a niche, we determine its width, which furniture makers mean by length. It should not be made as close as possible, it is better to deviate from the minimum niche length of 6 cm, then the cabinet is guaranteed to enter the opening. If the structure is located autonomously against the wall, we reduce the tolerance.
When determining the length, we also take into account the dimensions of the material, which must be known in advance. Using chipboard, we mean that the size of the plate is 1830 mm × 2750 mm. Drywall 2.5 or 3.0 m long, 1 m wide. We try to make the width of the cabinet equal to the width of the plate or less. Then there will be no difficulties with installation. As for lining and MDF, we try to ensure that the length of the cabinet is a multiple of the width of the strips.
Sometimes it is required to make furniture that exceeds the standard width in its width. sheet material. The easiest way is to increase the missing length with a segment. At the junctions of the bottom and the ceiling, we get a weak spot, which can be deformed under loads. To avoid this, we put supports at the joints. You can make two cabinets, and then connect them into a single whole. The only drawback is the overspending of materials on an extra wall.
When calculating the depth, we take into account the usable space used for storage, then add 100 mm to it for the sliding system. We choose the height of the cabinet 10 cm less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling, excluding the height of the roof. This will allow you to assemble a massive product in a horizontal position, then lift it up without hitting the ceiling.
Rigid frame and strong base - a condition for the stability of furniture
With insufficient rigidity of the frame, the cabinets sway, and the main reason for this is the lack of stiffeners. A fiberboard sheet for the back walls cannot provide it. We add transverse screeds from chipboard 25 cm wide to each section at different levels, fasten with confirmations. This arrangement will provide maximum rigidity.
For a drywall cabinet frame, only a metal profile with purchased fasteners is acceptable.
Incorrect location and insufficient number of supports will cause the bottom to deform under load. To avoid this, we install supports 30–40 mm from each bulkhead. The sliding wardrobe can be installed on through supports 25 mm high with the possibility of adjustment through the holes in the bottom. The only inconvenience is the gap between the bottom and the floor, which will be a garbage collector. The second option is to use kitchen legs 100 mm high.
Filling - installation of shelves, drawers and clothes rail
If the shelves are located in separate sections at different levels, there are no problems: the use of confirmations will do. Where it is impossible to screw them in, corner furniture ties are installed. When installation on the same center line is required, a "helicopter" can be used for fastening with confirmations. In the middle of one of the shelves we screw in a confirmation, turn it along the axis. We screw two confirmations into the shelf opposite, return it to its place. On opposite sides, we also fasten each shelf with two confirmations.
When calculating the installation of drawers, do not forget about the height of the lower rail so that the drawer does not rest against it.
To store clothes on hangers in the closet, we install a bar in a longitudinal or transverse arrangement. The classic longitudinal rod requires a minimum depth of 60 cm. The transverse version uses a retractable rod. Its fastening is carried out with four screws, which is unreliable. Instead of a lift rod, it is better to install a regular one. We fasten two longitudinal boards of chipboard vertically to the top shelf, we attach a shortened bar to them in the usual way.
Calculation of the door width - the principle "so as not to interfere"
When the door is moved to the side, it should completely open access to the section and not interfere with the pull-out of the drawer or lowering the pantograph lift. Consider an example with a three-section compartment with a width of 2100 mm:
- 1. We measure the width of the inner opening. In our example, using chipboard, it will be 2068 mm.
- 2. We take away the double width of the buffer tape pasted on the outer doors of the cabinet. The thickness of each is 6 mm, for a total we get 2068 minus 12 - 2056 mm.
- 3. We take into account the overlap of doors, which in a three-section cabinet is 26 mm on both sides, which is 52 mm in total. The total width of all doors is: 2056 mm plus 52 mm, 2108 mm comes out. We divide the total width by three, and it comes out 703 mm.
Such a simple calculation will provide free access to the sections.
Door suspension - features of different systems
There are suspension systems, where there are two guides, and with a monorail. The system, based on the bottom rail, received most widespread. The top rail only serves to support the doors. The system does not jam, the touch of the wings is excluded. Mounting is simple: insert the top into the groove, lift it, put the bottom in place.
The system based on the upper rail is simple, the fittings are cheap, and the installation is simple. The movement of the wings is quiet and smooth. It has significant drawbacks, so it is rarely used. If you carelessly press the door, the rollers can come out of the grooves, the door goes inside the cabinet. The upper rail does not have great rigidity; a perfectly flat ceiling and reliable fastening are required.
In a monorail system, each door runs on paired rollers on separate rails. They keep the doors from staggering to a certain extent, the lower guide is not used. The suspension is precise, rigid, well regulated. But they install the monorail mainly in the bedroom, where only adults will use the closet, since handling such a system requires accuracy.
Door structures - step by step assembly guide
- 1. We calculate the length of the profiles and cut them. The height of the wings depends on the clearances required for normal operation, they are indicated in the instructions for the suspension elements.
- 2. We drill holes for fastening the vertical handle profile: outer 10 mm, inner 5.5 mm. We drill 5.5 mm holes in the inner and outer wall, then drill up to 10 mm in the outer wall. Mounting and adjusting parts freely pass through the outer hole and are attached to the inner one.
- 3. We install the profiles on the filler: first horizontal, then vertical. It happens that the profile is tight, then we use a rubber mallet, with which we apply neat blows, but not directly along the profile, but through a piece of wood.
- 4. We connect profiles. In the upper part, we screw the self-tapping screw into the profile, but not completely, so that there is space left, install the roller and tighten the self-tapping screw. We tighten the profiles from below, insert the lower rollers into the horizontal profile, screw the adjusting screw through the hole in the vertical profile.
- 5. Install the top guide. There are no nuances here, the only thing to observe is the absence of gaps with the side walls.
- 6. Before installing the lower rail, we lay it from below, setting the stoppers, and hang one sash. We shift the bottom rail by 20 mm inside the cabinet and fasten it. Built-in wardrobes diagrams and drawings
The most popular coupe designs are built-in and separate. Collect them from ready-made kits or order cut to your own size. To facilitate calculations, we offer universal drawings of sliding cabinets. You just have to take them as a basis and adapt to the required size.
Regardless of the size of the apartment, a place for compact storage of a huge amount of things - clothes, shoes, underwear, books and many other necessary (and not so) ones - is always needed. And such a place is a closet.
The ideal option is a coupe - saving space in the absence of swinging doors, spaciousness, and the design can become an ornament to any room. Mirrors will visually increase the space, MDF inserts will make the interior unique, and soft triplex with a pattern of your choice will turn your furniture into a work of art.
Do-it-yourself sliding wardrobe for the hallway
Which closet to choose? The answer is simple. If you have settled in your home for a long time, if you do not like permutations, if there is a free niche that you definitely want to use, then you need a built-in one. But if the move is still possible and you, due to the peculiarities of your character, have a hard time parting with your favorite and comfortable things, then your choice is the usual case, made according to your individual project.
Furniture, in the construction and design of which everything is thought out by you and for you, is more than a piece of furniture: it is your creation, your pride, a way to express your individuality.
You can, of course, just go to the store and buy a more or less suitable option for you in terms of color, content, size and price. One of the tens of thousands produced on the conveyors of furniture factories. You can order the production of an individual project in one of the many salons. And you can do it yourself, putting a piece of your soul into a thing that will be in front of your eyes every day. In one piece of interior, realize oneself as a designer, constructor, sawmiller, assembler. And let someone from your acquaintances not like your creation. This is YOUR work and no one has the right to criticize it.
built-in
Built-in corner wardrobe
Advantages
- Mounted in niches and pantries, significantly saves space. Here you can compactly store a variety of things - from jars of jam and tools to everyday items.
- Thanks to the design of the sliding doors, the niche disappears, the angularity of the room disappears and a unique interior detail appears in its place.
- Between it and the wall there is no empty space - a place where dust constantly collects.
- It is easier to make a built-in wardrobe - fewer parts, since the shelves are attached to the walls.
- Sockets and switches are easily placed inside it.
disadvantages
- The built-in one is absolutely non-transportable, and even if you decide to disassemble and transport it to another room, then its alteration to new dimensions will take a lot of time, effort and nerves.
- It does not have a back wall, and you will need to prepare a niche before installation.
You can make a built-in wardrobe without having a niche with two main walls. "Built-in" it can be partially. Its design may include a sidewall or a roof.
Corpus
Double cabinet wardrobe
Advantages
- It can be installed in any convenient place in the room or hallway.
- It can be used as a partition in a room for zoning a room.
- Additional wall preparation is not required. On the contrary, the cabinet can cover the flaws of the wall.
disadvantages
- "Extra", unused spaces: between the ceiling and the roof, between the side wall and the wall.
Step 2. Choice of design and content.
Internal filling of a large closet
Has the purchase of a sliding wardrobe become a necessity? Then take a few days to decide what exactly you want. Flip through the catalogs furniture stores read articles on the internet. Mark for yourself interesting solutions and details, and those nuances in construction and design that you would like to avoid.
Step. 3. Choice of material.
Main material
- The most common is laminated chipboard (LDSP). This is a very practical item. It is easy to process and affordable. Variety of colors gives wide opportunities for design solutions. Chipboard is made industrial way. Sheets have different sizes and thickness. For production, plates with a thickness of 16 mm are used, and for inserts in doors - with a thickness of 10 mm.
- 3.2 mm thick fibreboard (MDF) is suitable for the back wall;
- MDF - beautiful, durable, more environmentally friendly, used for the manufacture of furniture in rooms with high humidity, but much more expensive material;
- Wood is the most environmentally friendly of materials, but, unfortunately, is poorly suited for the manufacture of wardrobes.
- Due to its fragility, drywall is generally not recommended for making furniture.
Sliding door system. Currently, there is a fairly large selection of different systems on the market:
- aluminum;
- steel;
- suspended;
- frameless, etc.
Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, in aluminum systems, convenient vertical handle profiles are ideal for a hallway and a nursery. Steel systems are elegant, which is especially important in the bedroom. Suspension systems ideally fit into the interior, where they should be invisible.
Step 4. Decide on the size.
built-in
- Width. Measure the width of the niche along the back wall along three horizons: at the ceiling, in the middle of the wall and at the floor. Take the larger value as calculated.
- Height. Measure along the wall on the right and left. Take the smaller one for the calculated distance between the shelves.
- Depth. Depends on what will be stored here. Will there be a horizontal bar for hangers or just shelves.
Corpus
Approximate scheme of a sliding wardrobe with dimensions
- Width. Measure in place. It is necessary to take into account: the curvature of the walls (if you plan to place the cabinet from the wall to the jamb, then due to the slope of the wall, even a centimeter ready product may not fit in the space you have planned), the presence of switches and sockets.
- Height. Firstly, even the tallest cabinet should be 15-20 cm lower than the ceiling height, while the need for upper inaccessible shelves should be much more important for you than the ability to wipe dust from its cover without using a stepladder and, secondly, you should not ignore the recommendations of manufacturers of wardrobe systems for the maximum allowable height.
- Depth. This parameter entirely depends on what you will store in it. If we are talking only about shelves, then we have: shelf depth + space for the rail and doors (indicated in the system manufacturer's instructions). If a hanger bar is meant, then this is at least 50 cm, since clothes hangers are 45-48 cm long. If this is a vertical hanger holder with a shelf mount, then first decide on it.
Step 5. Calculate the number of sliding doors
The width recommended by manufacturers is from 60 to 90 cm. If the width is less than 50 cm, it will lose its stability, and more than a meter - ease of movement (there is a maximum permissible load on rollers, in which the manufacturer gives a guarantee for their long-term use).
The rails (top and bottom rail), depending on the manufacturer, are 4 - 5.5 m long. If your cabinet is longer than 3 meters, think about how you will transport the five-meter rail. There is a simple solution - to install a partition from chipboard. You will get two independent niches. Visually, the partition will be imperceptible. It is not recommended to dock the guides, this will quickly disable the wheels.
Step 6. Decide on the height of the doors
For built-in wardrobes
If the height of the niche is up to 280 cm, then the doors can be made in full height. If this size is larger, then two options can be considered.
- Mount the upper mezzanine with hinged doors.
- Make a roof at a height of 280 cm (but taking into account the fact that the dust there must at least sometimes be wiped off).
The option with a roof is also relevant and subject to availability. stretch ceilings, if a beam was not previously screwed to the ceiling in the right place, especially for mounting built-in furniture.
For case products maximum height= height to ceiling minus 15-20 cm.
Step 7 Sketch
Preliminary sketch of a sliding wardrobe in a manual version
Before proceeding directly to the drawing, sketch out the desired arrangement of things. Measure them if necessary. For example, the dimensions of an ironing board or existing baskets and shelves for shoes.
Make a sketch (as best you can). On the sketch, indicate the dimensions that must be strictly observed. And now mentally put the doors and move them to the right and left in various options, thus checking the accessibility to all parts of the internal content.
Step 8. Drawing (Measure seven times - cut one).
Drawing wardrobe with dimensions
It is most convenient to make a preliminary markup directly on the walls of the niche with a pencil. This will make it possible to avoid errors in the dimensions of the parts.
For example:
- top shelf \u003d niche width x depth of internal filling (that is, the depth of the cabinet minus the doors);
- rack \u003d niche height - top shelf height - material thickness;
- shelves on the right = (niche width / 2 - 5-10 cm) x depth;
- shelves on the left = (niche width - shelves on the right - material thickness) x depth.
Additional may be needed
Additional details are needed if it is not possible to level the side walls and floor. The rectangle in which compartment doors will be mounted must be perfect. This can be achieved by mounting the box for them completely or partially. At uneven walls gaps between the walls will be visible, and if the floor or ceiling is uneven, the door can generally jam or jump out of the grooves, not to mention spontaneous opening and closing - after all, it will slide down an inclined path under its own weight.
Cabinet wardrobe
Decide:
- how will you fix the back wall of fiberboard, if it is located in a niche, from wall to wall, and if there is no answer, then you should consider the option with a built-in wardrobe, where there is no back wall;
- whether your cabinet will rest on legs or on the sidewalls;
- which sliding door system will you use.
Carefully study the instructions for this type of door, turning Special attention for maximum and minimum allowable dimensions. The durability and reliability of the system itself depends on this.
Drawing directly. Armed with a T-square, pencil and eraser, proceed to the most important part of the work.
Consider the option of relying on the sidewalls.
Main material parts:
- roof = cabinet length x depth;
- support \u003d (cabinet depth - base material thickness - 20 mm - baseboard width) x base height;
- back wall (hardboard) = (cabinet height - plinth - 2-4 mm) x (cabinet length - 2-4 mm);
- sidewalls \u003d (cabinet height - material thickness) x depth;
- bottom = (roof width - two material thicknesses) x depth;
- plinth = cabinet length - two material thicknesses) x 70-100 mm;
- rack \u003d (cabinet height - base - 2 material thicknesses) x (cabinet depth - doors);
- shelves \u003d (cabinet width - 3 material thicknesses - the width of the adjacent niche) x (cabinet depth - doors).
Here it is worth paying attention to the fact that the doors of the closet are wider than 1/2 of the internal width, there is an “overlap” of the doors, and if you have baskets or drawers planned, they simply will not come out of the closet, that is, the size of the niche with shelves under the baskets should be less than half.
Attention! Do not leave the roof unsupported by the rack, it may sag.
Step. 9. Detailing
Parts table for making cabinet
According to the finished drawing, make a list of parts with their dimensions (specification).
Designate the parts whose ends need to be closed with a decorative edge and, taking into account the thickness of the edge, adjust the dimensions of the parts.
Designate the parts on which you want to make "cuts", for example, under the plinth on the sidewalls.
Step 10 Precut
Approximate cutting of chipboard sheets
On a sheet of paper, to scale, compactly arrange all the details. If as a result you need 1 sheet of material and a little more, then you can adjust the main design by replacing some of the shelves, for example, with grid shelves.
Now that you know the exact internal size, you need to, in strict accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations for sliding systems sliding wardrobes, to make detailing of doors.
Step 11 Tools and Materials
Tools needed for installation:
- roulette;
- wood saw;
- square;
- building level;
- drill and confirmation drill;
- corner clamps;
- screwdriver with a set of bits (cross and hex);
- mallet;
- conductor for perpendicular drilling.
Materials:
- the main material provided by the project (chipboard, fiberboard, MDF);
- edge (of your choice) and PVA glue;
- euro screws 70x5;
- plugs;
- self-tapping screws (for fastening the back wall and accessories);
- furniture corners (plastic or metal) for attaching cabinet parts to the camps;
- furniture fittings (rods, holders, grid shelves, pull-out baskets);
- crayon or wax for painting chips;
- accessories for doors (guides, profiles, rollers, slats, schlegels, latches - everything that is required to assemble this design).
Attention! Carefully read the instructions for assembling the type of door you have chosen. Don't step back from them!
Step 12. Step by step instructions.
Built-in wardrobe
Previously in a niche it is necessary:
- clean from old finishing materials;
- level surfaces;
- paint or wallpaper.
Instruction
Details for the future wardrobe
- With the help of furniture plastic corners(or metal, if it seems more reliable to you) attach the main vertical racks and transverse shelves to the floor, ceiling and walls in accordance with the preliminary layout and drawing. The parts are connected to each other with euro screws.
We assemble the cabinet section by section and put it against the wall
- Check the correct fastening of each part using the building level.
- (if necessary) Mount the box or its elements in a niche. Between themselves, additional parts are fastened with euro screws, they are attached to the wall with the help of corners.
We mount sections in a niche and assemble the frame
- Attach all accessories (baskets, hangers) to the filling of the cabinet using self-tapping screws;
We fix all the extreme shelves and racks to the walls, floor and ceiling, assemble the boxes and put them in place
- Install top and bottom rails.
We fix the guides to the ceiling and to the floor
- Measure the resulting door opening.
- Mask all visible chips with wax, fix the plugs.
- In strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, assemble the doors.
Assembly diagram of the wardrobe door
- Hang doors.
Door suspension with bottom support rail
The appearance of a new functional wardrobe, assembled by hand
Cabinet wardrobe.
- File the details of the desired size, seal the visible parts with an edge.
Edge application on cabinet parts
- Make a markup for fastening the parts together.
Marking of the attachment points is applied to the bottom surface, holes are drilled for the fasteners, after which a plinth of two strips and a central partition are attached
- Drill holes: on flat surfaces - through, at the ends - no more than 60 mm deep, 5 mm in diameter.
- Assemble the doors in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
- Assemble the body and its contents.
To fasten open side shelves with rounded corners, confirmations are used, the shelves are attached to the surfaces of the side and rear walls, 2 fasteners for each
- Align the cabinet by measuring and comparing its diagonals with a tape measure.
Sliding cabinet door installation
- Stepping back from the edge of the lid and the bottom of 1 cm, screw the guides.
Guides for the door leaf are fastened with self-tapping screws with press washers
- Hang doors.
To install the door leaf, rollers are inserted into the upper guide, the lower rollers are pressed in and the leaf enters the profile, leaning on the lower guide
Do-it-yourself ready-made cabinet wardrobe
Video: How to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands. Video instruction for installation.
The closet plays an important role in any interior. It is not surprising that stringent requirements are imposed on him: not to take up too much space, to be roomy, to have enough shelves and drawers. Models on the market do not always fully satisfy individual wishes.
It can be even more difficult for owners of non-standard layout apartments to choose an option that fits into the room. In this case, you can order a cabinet from specialists who will take into account all the wishes for the design and internal content.
Unfortunately, this option is not for everyone. Then best solution problems will be the use of one's own hands and ingenuity, because it is not difficult to assemble a wardrobe on your own!
Preparatory stage
Each room has its own type of construction, so you should familiarize yourself with the main ones.
Wardrobe with closed front - straight model with hinged doors. To open them, you need to provide additional space, do not forget about this if you are making a closet for the hallway.
The cabinet with an open facade has no doors, and its contents are in plain sight. It imposes certain requirements on the order.
The wardrobe doors are mounted on a rail mechanism and open, moving apart. There are designs with an upper and lower rail, which one to choose is a matter of taste.
Ideal design for a built-in wardrobe
The corner cabinet fills the corner. Suitable for a room of any size, if it is square or close to it.
Having chosen a suitable design, you can begin to create a project for the future cabinet. Since this piece of furniture has been serving for more than one year, it is worth considering what functionality may be required of it. It is better to build a drawing on whatman paper, entering all measurements there.
Decide on the location and dimensions of the cabinet. If a niche is provided in the room, it is ideal, but if it is not possible to build it in, choose a place where neither he nor he will interfere with anything.
Think over the internal content: the location and number of shelves and drawers, their sizes, additional elements like mezzanines or interior lighting.
Don't Forget Your Choice exterior finish, decorations. The colors "oak", "alder", "beech" are the most popular today. And you can choose wood with an interesting pattern and leave your native pattern. Get creative, decorate the doors with a carved pattern.
materials
The material can be natural wood, plywood, MDF or chipboard are all used by furniture manufacturers.
The tree is environmentally friendly, does not require additional decorations, it is convenient to use. A wooden cabinet will last more than one year and will look solid and impressive. The perfect choice for a classic style interior.
Plywood is glued sheets of veneer (birch or trees are used). conifers). This cheap, practical material is suitable for the manufacture of almost any furniture. It is best to choose laminated plywood (FOF brand).
Chipboard (chipboard) is the cheapest and most common option. When assembling your own closet, they usually use it. Short-lived.
A self-adhesive melamine film is also useful for processing the side faces.
The rod diameter must be at least 22 mm. The easiest way is to buy it in a specialized store. You can also buy pens there.
Instruments
- Ruler, tape measure, pencil and others for taking measurements and building a drawing.
- Level.
- Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting.
- Screwdriver or drill and screwdriver.
- Glue.
- Ratchet key.
- Iron for gluing edging film.
- Accessories. Each door opening mechanism has its own set.
- It is better to buy confirmations for a chipboard cabinet with a length of 7 cm and a diameter of 0.5 cm.
Working process
First of all, measurements are taken and a drawing of the future cabinet is built. The final result depends on a correctly drawn up drawing, so approach it with all seriousness.
Making cabinet doors with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to correctly calculate the dimensions. If its vertical height is less than the height of the opening, the door will not completely close it, and if more, it will not fit. Finding the horizontal dimension, we must not forget about the fastening elements: they will add a few millimeters to it. The width of the doors should be ~3 mm less than the opening.
Now you need to mark the placement of the mounting bolts on the sawn parts and drill all the holes.
The assembly begins with the installation of the bottom and attaching the walls to it. Make sure that assembled cabinet fits into the allotted space and other furniture will not interfere with the opening of the doors. If you are making a wardrobe, guides are installed at this stage.
The location of drawers and shelves is outlined, shelf holders and guides are installed. They must be strictly parallel so that they do not skew.
It is time to install the upper shelves and roof. A gap of ~ 7 cm is left between the ceiling and the roof for the installation of confirmations. Fasteners are made by hand, finally tightened with a ratchet.
The side shelves are attached to 4 confirmations (two on each side), in some cases dowels (small wooden cylinders) are used. One end of the dowel is inserted into the wall of the cabinet, a shelf is put on the other.
The last step is to install the doors. Before installation, attach the handles with an outward bend. For sliding doors, the correct installation of the mechanism is especially important. Don't rush, be careful.
It's time for the finishing touches. Treat the cuts with a decorative film, decorate the facade. Put mirrors, interior lighting and other elements.
Tricks and nuances
Build on existing cabinet layouts when designing your own.
A corner cabinet requires more care in design and assembly than a straight one, so it may be too complicated for an inexperienced person.
If you do not have enough experience, it is better to entrust the cutting of parts to the master. His hand will not tremble, and the cuts will be even and neat.
In order not to get a piece smaller than necessary, consider the thickness of the saw. The wall thickness must be at least 18 mm. Otherwise, the strength of the structure will be insufficient.
When working on the drawing, pay attention to the curvature of the floor. If the floor is not level, gaps may appear between the doors. To avoid this, adjust the mounting canopies for the swing mechanism, and change the height of the wheels for the sliding mechanism.
Guides for sliding doors should be parallel. Be very careful when marking and installing guides for drawers and shelves.
Drill holes for confirmations symmetrically. Use a drill of the correct size. The exact number of confirmations depends on the number of parts. Confirmates are covered with plugs to match the color of the structure.
Installation of the mirror begins with the installation of a seal around the perimeter. The film is glued to the slices of chipboard with an iron. Smooth it with a cloth, pressing it as tightly as possible. The edges can be trimmed with a regular knife.
Study photos of handmade cabinets: you will get a boost of inspiration and mark interesting ideas for yourself.
We hope our tips have helped answer the question of how to make a wardrobe with your own hands.
DIY cabinet photo
