Today we will continue the topic of the foundation and plinth of your house, or rather, we will “close it” with an article about how to build a concrete blind area correctly and inexpensively with your own hands for your home. We will look at the simplest and inexpensive way devices concrete blind area (after all, our task is to build an inexpensive house with our own hands, which is not inferior in reliability dear home. Remember?).
So what do we have? The construction of our house is completed: the roof - it's all finished. It's time to start building the blind area. In fact, the blind area can be made almost any time after the walls are laid. But the most optimal time In our opinion, this is when you begin the final exterior decoration of your home. If you plan to cladding the base, then the blind area should be done after this work has been completed.
Why do you need a blind area?
If you don't have enough funds for final finishing at home, then blind area We still recommend doing it. In any case, the blind area should be done before the cold weather. Then your house will “overwinter and welcome spring” without any problems.
And now - the main functions of the blind area:
- Decorative effect, a sense of architectural completeness;
- Except decorative element houses, blind area is protection of the foundation from external waters: melt water, rain. Retaining water and diverting it to the storm drain (this is what you plan to do) is the main task of the blind area;
- In addition, the blind area allows you to reduce freezing of the soil underneath it, and, accordingly, around the house. Those. the blind area guards the heat of the house;
- Reducing soil freezing entails reducing the likelihood of soil heaving. It is recommended to do this on swelling soils. True, we decided not to do this;
- If there is no blind area and the soil comes close to the base, then in addition to excessive moisture, plant roots can also cause damage to the foundation.
How to make a blind area correctly?
The simplest option is a concrete blind area with a width of 60 cm, which surrounds your house on all sides.
In order for the blind area to fully fulfill its purpose, it is necessary to follow several basic rules:
- the width of the blind area should not match or be less than the roof overhang. Minimum width of the blind area = roof overhang (eaves) + 20cm;
- the blind area should continuously encircle the entire house. Then the base of the house (and the basement) will be protected from moisture penetration;
- the wider the blind area, the better the function of protection against water penetration will be performed;
- the blind area should be performed with a slight slope. Minimum slope from the house towards the ground, which will ensure water drainage - 1.5 degrees. The slope may be greater. It depends on the base coating. The slope can be formed both at the stage of creating the underlying layer and at the stage of laying the coating. We will describe below what the underlying layer and coating are.
DIY concrete blind area
The durability of your foundation, the minimum expenditure of both money and time on repairing the foundation, basement and blind area and the absence of “headaches” after you have finished building your house with your own hands depend on the blind area, carried out according to all the rules - and this is probably , the most important!
The blind area is two structural layers:
- underlying layer. The main task is to create an even, compacted base for the coating. Material used: clay, sand, small crushed stone. The material for the underlying layer depends on the covering material. Thickness - up to 20mm;
- coating. The main task is water resistance and resistance to the destructive effects of water. Material used: clay (clay is a material that can be used as both an underlying layer and a coating), concrete, asphalt mixture, small cobblestones. Thickness - up to 10 cm.
This is true for any type of blind area. In this regard, we will tell you in what order the work should be performed for concrete blind area structures.
- We carry out markings for the future blind area. We talked about the minimum width of the blind area in this article above. The width of the blind area in our house is 100cm;
- We remove and compact the soil around the perimeter of the building. Usually the soil is removed during the zero construction cycle. When constructing a blind area, you need to prepare the soil exactly for the width of the future blind area in accordance with the markings. In this case, you need to consider what material you will make the blind area from. For a concrete blind area, the soil must be removed to a depth of 20-25 cm - the depth “at the bayonet of a shovel”;
- Sometimes it is recommended to treat the roots of plants under the removed soil with herbicides, which can subsequently cause harm to the blind area. This is at your discretion - we did not do this;
- We make formwork from boards. For formwork we use boards 20mm thick. We talked about how to properly make removable formwork from boards (the principle is the same) in the article;
- Place a small layer of clay on the compacted soil. Level and compact the clay;
- We lay a layer of sand 10 cm thick. The sand must be thoroughly compacted. To do this, it is effective to shed the sand with a layer of water. Don't overdo it - there's clay underneath! Compact the sand especially carefully near the foundation.
- Now we lay crushed stone in a layer of 6-7 cm;
- To strengthen the blind area, we reinforce it with reinforcement mesh (see photo) in increments of 100 mm. It is typical for concrete to withstand compressive loads. Reinforcement allows the blind area to also effectively withstand tensile loads;
- At the junction of the blind area with the plinth, it is necessary to make a seam, which is called a compensation seam. It is also called deformation or temperature. The expansion joint will protect the base and blind area from destruction during soil subsidence. In this case, the blind area will sag or fall along the prepared seam without causing damage to the base. The width of the expansion joint is 1-1.5 cm. We fill this gap with a mixture of sand and fine gravel, bitumen, mastic or two layers of roofing material. Some builders use foamed polyethylene to fill the seam. The diameter of the tourniquet should be 25% larger than the width of the seam so that the tourniquet fits tightly into the gap. A special feature when laying a rope: its top should be at a depth equal to 1/2 the width of the seam. To make laying the bundle easier, you can use a piece of plywood. And although we talked about this method of filling an expansion joint, we did not use it ourselves. We used sealant;
- When pouring a blind area with concrete across the blind area, an expansion (temperature) joint should be constructed every 2-3 meters (the distance depends on the likelihood of soil swelling). Expansion joints protect the concrete blind area from possible ruptures in winter. Wooden slats mounted on an edge are suitable for these purposes. The slats must be installed so that their top surface coincides with the surface of the concrete. IMPORTANT! Consider the slope of the blind area! To protect the slats from rotting, we treated them with waste oil (used oil). Wooden slats can also be processed;
- Expansion (temperature) joints must also be installed in the corners of the house;
- We put and ;
- Align concrete base. Wooden slats pre-installed to create expansion joints play the role of beacons that should be followed when leveling the concrete;
- It will give maximum strength to the formwork. Ironing done using the wet method will give the blind area for your home maximum moisture resistance;
- And the final stage: cover the concrete surface with a cloth, wetting it with water from time to time. This will keep the concrete from drying out until it is completely cured. If you are making a blind area during the rainy season, and this is exactly what happened to us, you can do without additional moisture. Daily rains will do their job;
- In a week, the correct concrete blind area for your home is ready.
Repair of concrete blind area
If you have properly completed the foundation, plinth and blind area for your home, you should not have problems for a long time.
However, it happens that cracks appear on the blind area or damage takes up a significant area. What to do in these cases?
- Small cracks should be filled with liquid cement mortar (1:1 or 1:2);
- More large cracks must be cut down to its full depth and cleaned of contaminants. Then fill the prepared cracks with mastic of the following composition: 70% bitumen BND-90/130 or BND-60/90, 10% crushed slag and 15% asbestos. Cracks filled with mastic should be sprinkled with sand.
- If the damage to the concrete blind area is significant, it is necessary to restore it with fresh concrete. To do this, clean the surface to be repaired from dirt and prime it. For priming, use cement mortar (1:1 or 1:2). Then lay fresh mortar and level it. Next, you need to prevent the laid concrete from drying before it hardens. In other words, periodically moisten it or cover it with plastic wrap to prevent it from drying out.
IMPORTANT! It is more effective to repair the blind area in spring or autumn in cool weather. If you need to repair the blind area in the summer, choose the morning hours for this. During the day, under the influence of high temperatures, due to the expansion of concrete, the cracks will decrease. This will prevent you from completing your repair as efficiently as possible.
The blind area around the house is a wide “ribbon” with a hard or loose covering. But this is only the visible part complex design. Many people perceive the blind area of a house as a type of path along the wall, and although such use may be included in the list of functions, the main purpose of the structure is different.
Blind area around the house made of paving slabs
Why do you need a blind area
Among the regulatory documents, there is no separate standard, SNiP or set of rules on how to make a blind area around a house correctly. There are several documents defining its purpose, requirements for width and slope angle, interaction with other elements for draining atmospheric water from the site on which the building stands.
According to the standards, there must be a waterproof blind area around the building, which is created as part of mandatory water protection measures aimed at preventing local soaking of the soil in the base area of the house.
That is, we are talking about protecting the soil, not the foundation. To protect the materials of the foundation itself, waterproofing of the foundation is done, because in addition to atmospheric waters, there is also groundwater, which rises high during the rainy season and during snow melting (the so-called high water).
And the ground must be protected from getting wet, because under the influence of moisture, many types of soil (clay, loam) lose some of their load-bearing properties and simply may not withstand the design load from the building. To prevent erosion of the soil, they create a blind area, which, however, also protects the foundation at the same time, removing part of the load from the waterproofing layer, which protects the concrete base of the house from getting wet.
In addition, the blind area around the house is an element of the architectural appearance of the building and part of the landscape of the site. There are quite a lot of ready-made design solutions, allowing you to disguise the blind area, and when using a hard surface, use it as a path.
A beautiful blind area that turns into a path, as part of landscape design
Requirement for the blind area
None regulatory document There are no requirements that would link the size of the blind area with the roof overhang. Moreover, there are no requirements to exceed the width of the blind area by 20-30 cm in relation to the projection of the cornice extension. When building a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands, you do not need to rely on these numbers.
The regulations provide only two minimum width sizes. And they depend on the soil:
on sandy ones - from 70 cm;
on clayey soils – from 100 cm.
This is exactly what is stated in the manual on construction operational control schemes for supervisory services.
In case of unorganized drainage, the side roof overhangs of houses up to two floors should be less than 60 cm. If the house is located on sandy soil, then the difference between the width of the blind area and the amount of roof overhang can be equal to 10 cm, and not contradict the requirements of the standards.
That is, it turns out that the parameter 20-30 cm is simply a statement of the real ratio of two sizes for most cases. But not for everyone.
Video description
Visually about the requirements for the blind area of a house in the video:
If the soils are subsident, depending on their type, the standards impose other requirements for the width:
Type I – more than 1.5 m;
Type II – more than 2 m.
And in any case, the blind area should be 40 cm wider than the pit bosom.
The slope angle can be in the range of 1-10%, but in the case of subsidence soils minimum angle is equal to 3°, which in terms of 5.2%.
The elevation of the outer edge of the blind area above the site should be more than 5 cm.
Types of blind areas
Before you properly make a blind area around the house with your own hands or order its construction, you need to decide on the type. There are three options for top coating:
Hard coating. It is a monolithic tape made of concrete or asphalt concrete. In the first case, when creating a blind area with your own hands, mandatory reinforcement is carried out, in the second it is not required, due to the resistance of asphalt concrete to bending loads.
Arrangement of the base and pouring of the blind area around the house is carried out using the same technology as for the paths, but taking into account the obligatory requirement for a slope from the base.
Protection from water occurs due to the water resistance of both types of concrete. Therefore, it is important that there are no cracks or tears in the coating on the surface. The second feature is that a gap is required between the blind area and the base to compensate for the thermal expansion of the monolithic coating.
Concrete blind area with an expansion gap at the base filled with sealant
Semi-rigid coating. They are made from paving slabs, clinker bricks or paving stones. The design and installation method are carried out by analogy with sidewalks and platforms made of these materials with the obligatory creation of a waterproofing layer as part of the blind area:
waterproof geomembrane, when laid on a dry sand-cement mixture;
concrete monolithic base.
Semi-rigid clinker brick covering
Soft covering. The classic option is to arrange the top layer from a compacted layer of dense (waterproof) clay. Many people know how to make a blind area of this type: it used to be done around village houses, and even now this solution is periodically used as an “economy option” around small country houses, but with top layer from decorative (colored) gravel. To improve waterproofing, a waterproof film can be laid between clay and crushed stone. You need to understand that the blind area is not just decoration; you shouldn’t save much on it.
Crushed stone covering as an economical option
Now gaining popularity the new kind soft blind area around the house based on a profiled membrane. General procedure The works here are as follows:
The membrane is laid in a trench with a depth of 25-30 cm.
The bottom of the trench is compacted with a slope from the foundation.
A layer of filtering geotextile is rolled out over the membrane, extending onto the base wall of the house.
Then a drainage layer of crushed stone and sand is poured, and on top of it is fertile soil, which is sown lawn grass or plant ornamental plants.
This blind area is also called hidden. This nice solution, but with a significant drawback - it is not recommended to walk on soft surfaces. However, you can always additionally organize a path.
Hidden blind area with ornamental plants
Common mistakes when creating a blind area
Errors can happen at any stage. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly fill the blind area around the house. But even with technology, you need to be careful.
For example, insufficiently compacted backfill soil leads to “unplanned” shrinkage and destruction of the integrity of the waterproofing layer or rigid covering. The same consequences occur if, due to the negligence of workers, construction waste gets into the backfill.
Transverse crack in the blind area as a result of an error
At the stage of compacting the bottom of the “trough”, it is necessary to maintain the level of the bottom of the pit and its slope. This is one of important conditions how to properly make a blind area around the house. Irregularities in the bottom lead to uneven thickness of the crushed stone layer and differences in its load-bearing properties in different areas, which can cause cracks in concrete. And if the slope of the trench profile is incorrect, during the rainy season or melting snow, the perched water will literally flow down to the foundation from the moisture-saturated soil.
Another mistake is the lack of an expansion joint between the concrete blind area and the plinth. At high air temperatures, forces arise in the concrete near the wall internal tension which lead to cracks. The same thing happens if transverse expansion joints are not laid or cut in the reinforced concrete blind area.
When preparing concrete mortar, it is unacceptable to use sand containing clay and dirty water. This will deteriorate the quality of the concrete and reduce the service life of the blind area.
If a tap for irrigation is provided in the basement of a private house, then a separate gutter must be laid under it. It is needed to drain water beyond the blind area in case of leakage of shut-off valves or a leaky hose connection.
Video description
Another mistake when installing a blind area on a video:
The maximum slope angle of the blind area is 10%. And with organized drainage of water from the roof, trays should be laid under drainpipes with a slope of more than 15%. This regulatory requirement is sometimes ignored.
Determining the thickness of the blind area
On the site of a private house, concrete, prefabricated semi-rigid or soft covering is used. The thickness of the semi-rigid coating is determined by the material itself for the blind area around the house: clinker bricks, tiles or paving stones. But the size of the concrete coating needs to be calculated. At least in order to calculate the volume of the solution and the depth of the trench for all layers.
Knowing the standard width of the blind area and the minimum level of elevation of the outer edge above the site, you can calculate single parameter, which is not regulated by standards - the thickness of the hard covering, taking into account its slope.
The minimum thickness of reinforced concrete is about 70 mm - the thickness of two rods with wire binding plus the thickness of the concrete layer on all sides is more than 30 mm.
Video description
What are the features of a hard and thick blind area in the video:
This size must be multiplied by the slope, multiplied again by the width of the tape, divided by 100. This will be the height difference between the outer edge and the base. And now you need to add the difference in heights to the thickness of the edge to get the thickness at the base.
If the thickness of the edge is 70 mm, the slope is 5%, the width of the blind area is 1000 mm, then the height of the covering at the base is 120 mm.
Technology for manufacturing concrete blind area
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a blind area around the house look like this:
Preparing a trench (“trough”) for the blind area. The fertile layer is removed over the entire width (from 20 to 30 cm). Compact the bottom of the trench and form a slope. The area near the foundation with backfill is especially carefully compacted, while adding local soil - the thickness of the compacted layer in this place is at least 15 cm. The depth of the trench should be sufficient for the underground part of the hard covering, the thickness of the cushion (minimum 10 cm, recommended 15 cm) and insulation for the blind area around the house on heaving soils. If the trench after excavating fertile soil turns out to be deeper than the calculated one, then the difference is compensated by backfilling with compaction of either local soil or a layer of clay (the second option is preferable).
Trench for a blind area with a slope from the foundation
Pillow. For weak soils, it is recommended to create a crushed stone base as the bottom layer. First, crushed stone of the middle fraction (40-70 mm) is filled, leveled and compacted. Then - fine crushed stone (5-10 mm) to fill the voids of the previous layer. When compacting the crushed stone, it is watered. Sand is poured in next, which is also leveled, watered and compacted. According to the standards, it is sand that serves as the basis for constructing a blind area. The level of crushed stone preparation should have a maximum deviation of 15 mm per 2 m, sand – 10 mm per 3 m.
Waterproofing. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the sand. It does not serve to protect the soil, but protects the concrete from loss of moisture during its maturation. In the regulations, this layer is called “separation layer”. To do this, use a geomembrane or plastic film 200 microns thick.
Video description
You can also use built-up waterproofing - example in the video:
Insulation. When creating a blind area on heaving soils, the structure is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. If two layers are laid, then the seams of the upper sheets are shifted relative to the seams of the lower ones.
Formwork. It is made from edged boards and a bar. At the same time, slats for transverse expansion joints are laid. Typically, these slats are mounted at the design level of the surface of the blind area with a given slope angle, and concrete is poured along them, like beacons. The width of the slats is 20 mm, the height in section is more than 25% of the thickness of the blind area. The approximate distance between the seams is calculated by multiplying a factor of 25 by the thickness of the concrete at the base. Typically, for concrete pavements, expansion joints are combined with technological joints (one portion of pouring between the slats). The expansion joint at the base is formed from folded strips of roofing material with total thickness about 5 mm.
Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area around a concrete house
Reinforcement. The easiest way is to lay a road mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm and a rod diameter of 4 mm. Adjacent cards (strips) are overlapped by one cell (or more) and tied with wire. The distance from waterproofing or insulation is at least 30 mm. This size must be maintained in relation to all surfaces - the front, at the ends of the edge and in relation to the base.
Concreting. M200 concrete is used. After pouring, within four hours, the concrete must be covered. And for 14 days - moisturize.
Protection from destruction. To improve the wear resistance and strength of the surface, ironing is carried out. There are two types: dry - after pouring, wet - simultaneously with filling expansion joints with sealant. After removing the slats (14 days after pouring the concrete), the seams are filled bitumen mastic with the addition of mineral filler.
Note. To enhance the surface and give an attractive decorative look, you can use stamped concrete technology.
Stamped concrete from the blind area to the walkway
If the blind area requires repair
If the concrete begins to deteriorate, then, depending on the degree of damage, the restoration technology takes the following form:
if the cracks are local (up to 30% of the surface) and not wide, they are filled with cement paste (the proportions of cement and water are 1:1);
for local repairs and wide cracks - they are expanded, the visible reinforcement is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, and sealed with a repair polymer cement mortar;
in case of crumbling and delamination - weak areas are cleaned and a layer of screed is poured around the entire perimeter of the house cement-sand mortar(with preliminary installation of a new curb and installation of a reinforcing frame).
When performing each type of repair, the surface of the blind area must be cleaned of dirt and debris and treated with a deep penetration primer.
As a result. It is important to remember that the blind area is only part of the water protection measures. The most effective blind area is in conjunction with storm sewer, when water is collected in special receivers and carried away through pipes away from the foundation.
Storm drainage system
As a result, the foundation will receive reliable protection not only from rain or melted snow, but also from groundwater.
And we hope you received answers to your main questions - how to make a blind area around the house and who to entrust it to.
The blind area is designed to protect the foundation from damage that may result from contact with atmospheric moisture. Additionally, the blind area will protect the structure from the destructive effects of the roots of various plants. Many owners ignore the need to install this element completely in vain. You can make a blind area with your own hands, and thanks to this element, which is easy to construct, the service life of the building will significantly increase.
The blind area performs a number of important functions, including:
- security reliable protection the foundation of the house from the harmful effects of atmospheric moisture and other negative factors;
- diversion of any kind of water from the building into the drainage system. Special drainage gutters are installed in the surface of the blind area, thanks to which the risk of the base and base getting wet is significantly reduced;
- improvement appearance buildings. Thanks to the blind area, the foundation will look more harmonious and complete;
- additional insulation of the foundation. Provided that all layers of the structure are properly arranged or special heat-insulating materials are used, the soil close to the house will freeze much less;
- practicality. Quite often, a blind area is used as a convenient path around a building, along which you can move without causing harm to plants and other elements of the site’s landscape.
Thus, the blind area is a functional and aesthetic element that must be installed around your home. Study the instructions provided and you will be able to make a high-quality and reliable blind area with your own hands.
The design under consideration consists of covering (upper) and underlying (lower) layers. The underlying layer ensures a smooth surface. However, the base should not be 100% horizontal, but have some slope.
If concrete is used as the top layer, the bottom layer must be made horizontal. The slope will be created directly at the stage of pouring concrete. Thanks to the slope, quick and high-quality drainage of water from the facade of the building will be ensured.
At the end of the work, a drainage ditch is created along the outer edge of the perimeter of the blind area. The slope is usually maintained at a level of 5 cm per 1 m of blind area width.
The underlying and covering layers can be made of different materials. So, clay, crushed stone and gravel are suitable for arranging the bottom layer.
Practice shows that it is best to use crumpled clay as a base. This material initially has good waterproofing properties. The standard thickness of the bottom layer is 25-30 cm. If the base of the blind area is made of clay, it will be enough to equip a 15-20 cm layer of the substrate.
When using gravel or crushed stone, sand must be poured over the main part of the underlying layer. The thickness of a separate additional layer of sand should be 7-10 cm.
For the covering layer, use a hard and moisture-proof material. The most commonly used materials are concrete, natural stone, asphalt. Paving slabs and bricks are sometimes used.
Preparing for work
Before starting work, you need to decide on the basic parameters of the future blind area. First of all, set the appropriate width. Most regulatory documents indicate that the blind area must have a width of at least 60 cm. However, this is only the minimum recommended value. There are many additional important factors to consider before you finally select the appropriate width.
First of all, Pay attention to the features of the eaves overhangs of the roof of your house. The outer border of the blind area should be approximately 25-30 cm further than the most protruding edge of the roof eaves.
At the stage of designing a blind area, one cannot but take into account the architectural and design features Houses. For example, if the site is decorated using various kinds of unusual design elements, the blind area can also be given original look, intelligently and organically connecting it with other elements of the landscape.
Very important parameter is the type of soil at the construction site. For example, if the house stands on subsiding soil, the width of the blind area should be at least 90-100 cm. Experts recommend that the blind area be more than 1 m wide. In such conditions, the structure in question will be able to simultaneously drain water and serve as a convenient path around the building.
It is important that the blind area is continuous. Any kind of rupture of the fabric can lead to a decrease in the protective functions of the blind area.
After determining the appropriate width, you will need to set optimal value slope of the blind area. In order for the structure to effectively cope with water drainage tasks, the slope must be at least 2-5 degrees in the direction from the house.
To determine the exact slope value, you must also take into account climatic features, characteristic of the location of the house, and the type of material used to construct the top layer of the structure. For example, if the covering layer is made of paving slabs, the slope of the blind area can be slightly reduced compared to the same indicator for a structure made of crushed stone.
The slope itself can be created at the stage of laying the bottom layer or during the installation of the front covering. This point depends on what specific materials are used to construct the structure in question.
After determining the optimal system parameters, calculate the required amount of materials and collect the required tools. At the stage of creating the underlying layer, you will need crushed stone and sand or clay.
The top layer of the blind area is most often made of concrete. If you decide to choose this material, first prepare a concrete mixer or a container for preparing mortar, reinforcement and wire, several shovels, a level and other small accessories.
Step-by-step instructions for pouring a blind area
The process of constructing a blind area will be considered using the example of a concrete structure. If you are a beginner, pay attention to this option, because... in most cases it is easier to set up compared to others existing varieties blind area. Complete each step of the work and you will get a reliable, durable and efficient design.
First stage. Mark out the local area. It is enough to measure the selected distance from the walls of the house, drive pegs from any suitable material and connect these pegs with a rope. Make sure that the marking points are on the same line.
Second phase. Remove the soil over the entire area of the blind area. The depth of the pit is selected individually, taking into account the type of system and the characteristics of the materials used. In most cases, the thickness of an ordinary concrete blind area is about 25 cm, excluding the front finish.
Third stage. Treat the plant roots at the bottom of the trench with special herbicides. Such treatment will not allow roots to grow in the future and disrupt the structure of the blind area.
Fourth stage. Assemble the formwork. As starting materials you can use unedged boards and wooden blocks for supports. The thickness of the boards should be at least 2 cm. Install the boards along the outer border of the trench.
Fifth stage. Compact the bottom of the trench and place a 5 cm layer of clay on it. Compact the clay thoroughly, place a 10 cm layer of sand on top of it and tamp it down. For better compaction, the sand should be spilled with water. Place a layer of crushed stone on top of the sand.
Sixth stage. Place reinforcement bars on the prepared cushion. Maintain a step of 10-15 cm. As a result, you should get a reinforcing mesh. Connect the connection points using steel wire. Thanks to reinforcement, the structure will have higher strength and resistance to various types of loads.
Seventh stage. At the junction of the blind area with the building, make an expansion joint. A 1.5 cm wide seam will be sufficient. Fill the seam space with a sand-gravel mixture or bitumen.
Eighth stage. Pour the concrete. Fill in one horizontal layer. Approximately every 230-250 cm, install transverse wooden slats. Thanks to them, the expansion joints necessary for the normal operation of the blind area will be created. Select the slats so that they top part was flush with the surface of the concrete structure. The slats should be pre-treated with an antiseptic.
Ninth stage. Carefully level the concrete and create the required slope before the mixture hardens.
Tenth stage. Cover the fill with wet burlap. As the fabric dries, it will need to be re-wetted with water. This will prevent the concrete mortar from cracking.
After about 3-4 weeks, the concrete will completely dry and gain the necessary strength. If you wish, you can lay porcelain tiles on the dried blind area, paving slabs or other suitable material.
Thus, there is nothing complicated about constructing a blind area yourself. All costs are reduced to purchase costs building materials. Follow the instructions and you can do everything as well as a professional builder.
Good luck!
Video - DIY blind area step by step instructions
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Regardless of the purpose of the building, it requires a blind area. Useful tips will help you answer the question: “How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands?” This is a useful building element, which is a strip of concrete mixture that is adjacent to the building along the entire perimeter of the house. This design protects the foundation from soil displacement, groundwater and precipitation. It is important to fill it before the onset of cold weather, since frozen soil puts a lot of pressure on the foundation.
A high-quality concrete ribbon around a building looks very aesthetically pleasing and is an excellent addition to landscape design
Before installation by pouring, you need to select the optimal strip width. In this case, the minimum size is 0.9 meters. This element can reach a width of 2.5 meters.
In addition, the water drainage tape is used as a walking path. It is worth calculating the size so that the concrete element extends 30 cm beyond the boundaries of the eaves.
It is also important to choose the correct slope of the strip in the direction away from the walls. In this case, the area near the wall will have a small height, and the edge of the tape will be level with the ground.
When deciding how to make a comfortable blind area around the house with your own hands, you should consider raising the height of 16 mm by 1 meter. At the same time, you can walk on it, and liquid will not accumulate.
Helpful information! During the winter cold similar option can turn into a skating rink.
Preparation: important steps
Before pouring the blind area, they are made preparatory work. It is necessary to make a foundation. In this case, a concrete screed is performed:
- At a certain distance from the wall, pegs are driven in and markings are made. The cord should be pulled along them;
- excavation is carried out, while the soil layer is removed by 20-25 cm. The depth of the recess should be the same everywhere;
- the sand layer needs to be spilled with water and compacted several times;
Helpful advice! The sand should have a uniform structure without crushed stone and broken bricks.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands: important stages of work
Most often, the completed trench is concreted using formwork. Along the entire contour of the concrete strip, specially equipped recesses (grooves) are installed to drain water.
Related article:
How are expansion joints made?
At the junction of the wall and the protective concrete sheet, an expansion joint is made, the size of which varies from 1 to 2 cm in width. It is filled with sand and roofing felt. You can also use a rope of polystyrene foam with a piece of plywood.
To simplify the installation of the blind area, you can install the tape in separate blocks. For this, slats are used that are installed across the formwork.
Helpful advice! To prevent water from penetrating between the concrete and the lath, it is better to seal these areas with sealant.
How is formwork poured?
When deciding how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, you should use concrete. The composition is prepared from one part cement, part sand and three parts crushed stone. The mixture is poured in portions.
In this case, the end parts at the top of the lintels coincide with the surface of the blind area. The concrete composition should be leveled with a wide spatula. The mixture is compacted with an iron rod or vibrator. The reinforcement section is immersed in concrete and rotates.
Punctures help eliminate bubbles. This makes the concrete more dense. To add strength, dry cement should be scattered over the concrete to absorb excess moisture. Then, using a metal trowel, cement is rubbed well into the surface until it turns dark gray.
The finished tape should be covered with burlap from the sun's rays. If there is no rain, then the material must be periodically wetted, otherwise it will not gain strength. A blind area can be created by a person who does not have construction skills.
Do-it-yourself blind area around the house: video and useful recommendations
A monolithic tape around the building allows you to strengthen the waterproofing properties of the base and walls. This part also has functional properties and also performs an aesthetic function. The width of the tape should be more than a meter. This parameter depends on the projection of the roof structure.
DIY concrete blind area around the house: video and installation features
When determining how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to properly excavate the soil. Be sure to treat all the walls of the excavation with a special compound that will help destroy weeds. If this is not done, the weeds will destroy the structure.
A curb stone or removable formwork. Then the underlying material is produced and carefully compacted. Depending on the material that will be used, the structures will differ in installation methods:
- laying stone or cobblestones. In this case, the height of the material should not be more than 10 cm. Installation is carried out on a laid sand floor. If crushed stone is used, the thickness will be less. The space between the cobblestones is filled with sand;
- if you make a blind area around the house with your own hands, then you do not need to lay an additional layer of fine crushed stone and sand. All voids between individual tiles are also sprinkled with sand. To make laying the tiles simple, you need to make a strip of such a size that you do not have to trim the tiles.
Application is the most profitable and the best option for arranging a blind area. Because it has many advantages. This allows the coating to be repaired in parts and has a long service life.
If the soil is not heaving, then clay is used. If the soil is heaving, then a sand layer is also used along with the clay.
Installation of any blind area consists of the following steps:
- A sand cushion is placed on the soil base. A layer of crushed stone is leveled on top;
- There is a deformation layer between the two surfaces at the junction. It will prevent cracking and deformation of the tape. Several layers of roofing material are installed between the surface of the base and the blind area;
