How to make an artificial brick on the wall. Imitation of brick for interior decoration: do it yourself with step-by-step instructions. Masking tape for imitation brickwork joints

Decoration of walls inside the premises of the apartment, as well as the facade of the house decorative brick or material imitating brickwork - never went out of fashion. However, unfortunately, it is not always possible to use interior decoration housing is a real brick, as it will make the floor slabs of multi-storey buildings heavier. In addition, it is not so easy to make an ideal masonry “for jointing”, because this requires at least a minimum experience of a bricklayer.

It is much easier to use other interesting ways to achieve the desired result. Imitation of a brick for can be made in different ways and, which is typical, is available for installation by anyone, even a novice finisher.

Given the fact that brickwork has been popular for decades and has been used in reproducing various interior styles, manufacturers have not missed this moment and have developed several types of material that can replace natural brick.

Such a finish is made in different forms - it can be flexible or rigid tiles that have the size of the end side of a brick, or large wall panels that cover an entire section of the wall at once, made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), MDF or fiberglass.

Flexible tiles "under the brick"

Flexible tile that imitates brickwork is great for interior and exterior wall decoration. This modern material is not only a decorative, but also a protective coating for surfaces and has a number of positive qualities- this includes resistance to external atmospheric influences, impact resistance, vapor permeability, inertness to microorganisms, as well as to ultraviolet radiation, and, of course, aesthetic appearance and a fairly simple process of processing and installation.

"Flexible brick" is easily mounted not only on straight flat surfaces, but also perfectly wraps around external and internal corners premises.

A similar material is used for wall decoration inside apartments and houses, in particular, rooms such as hallways, corridors, kitchens, living rooms, loggias. Suitable for external facade walls. It is very convenient to use such tiles for facing columns, fireplaces, small architectural forms, as well as in any areas where such a design is conceived. Regardless of the complexity of the surface configuration.

The tile can be used to finish the entire wall completely or fixed to its individual sections. Since the material has many colors, it is possible to make the finish monophonic or use tiles of different shades, harmoniously combining them with each other.

Installation of "flexible brick"

Installation of flexible tiles does not require complex electrical tools. It will only be necessary to prepare:

- smooth spatula 120÷150 mm wide - for mixing and applying glue;

- notched trowel with a comb 4 mm high and 150 ÷ 200 mm wide;

- building level with a length of 1000 ÷ 1500 mm;

- a ruler with a length of 1000 ÷ 1500 mm;

- marking colored cord for beating lines;

- a simple pencil;

- powerful scissors;

- a brush with a width of 12 mm for leveling the mortar in tile joints.

From materials other than tiles, you will need a primer for walls and a special

For installation, a dry mortar can be used - ordinary tile adhesive, but it is more convenient to use a ready-to-use composition packaged in plastic buckets. In any case, when purchasing a tile, you should immediately consult with the seller about the adhesive suitable for a particular material.

In order for the masonry to be even and neat, the wall must be put in order before installation begins, by cleaning and leveling its surface. After the leveling mortar has dried, the wall must be primed with an antiseptic compound, which will give the materials higher adhesion and prevent mold from appearing under the cladding layer in the future. When the primer is dry, you can proceed to the installation of tiles.

In addition, one must also take into account that installation work must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 degrees, otherwise the adhesion between the materials will be insufficient, and the tile may subsequently begin to peel off from the surface of the walls.

Brick imitation prices

brick imitation

The first step is to draw the surface of the wall into even zones, along which glue will be applied and the tile will be fixed. If the entire wall is to be completely lined, then it is imperative to beat off the upper and lower limiting lines.
The glue is not applied to the entire surface, but to separate lined zones, which are about 1000 × 500 mm. The layer of adhesive mass should be approximately 2 ÷ 3 mm - it is applied with an even spatula, and then distributed over the entire area to be lined with a notched trowel so that furrows of the same height are obtained.

The tile is glued in order, and if the first of the rows starts with a whole tile, then the second - with a half or one third of the "brick", depending on the desired location of the masonry joints.

Dividing a “flexible brick” into parts at any angle, without the use of any power tools, is quite simple: it is marked and cut along the line with ordinary scissors.

The seams between the rows can have different thicknesses - this parameter will depend on the preference of the master, but usually the clearance is left at 10 ÷ 12 mm. The selected size of the seams is taken into account immediately when marking the wall into zones for installation.

"Flexible brick" easily bends around ledges formed at any angle, as well as internal corners or rounded walls, if any, on the finished surface.

When the intended surface area is tiled, you must immediately level the mortar in horizontal and vertical joints, otherwise the glue will seize and accurate alignment will not work. The smoothing of the solution is carried out with a relatively thin brush of medium hardness, lightly moistened with water.

The fact that flexible tiles do not require additional purchase of grout for joints can also be safely called the advantage of the material, since you do not have to make extra costs.

Video: flexible facing tiles with excellent imitation of clinker bricks

Rigid facing tiles "under the brick"

Clinker tiles

Clinker tiles are used for interior cladding walls are not as common as other types of material that imitate brick, as it has a fairly high price. It is more often purchased for facades, given its highest performance characteristics. However, it can also be used for interior decoration, especially if you have to line a stove or fireplace.

It is made from natural highly plastic clays, without the use of artificial dyes and plasticizers. The raw material is pressed and fired at high temperatures reaching up to + 1150÷1200 degrees. Thanks to this, clinker tiles are an environmentally friendly material with unsurpassed natural qualities of durability and reliability, which are multiplied during the production process.

Such a finishing material is excellent for both interior and exterior cladding. It has a very low moisture absorption coefficient, high frost resistance and wear resistance, inertness to temperature extremes and almost any chemical attack.

The decorativeness of clinker tiles is not inferior to its physical and technical characteristics, since the variety of design options allows you to choose the material for every taste and style of the interior of the premises or the facade of the building. Finishes can have a rough, glazed or natural, unfinished surface. On sale are tiles of different sizes and shapes, and this factor also allows you to realize the most daring design ideas.

Installation of facing tiles "under the brick"

As mentioned above, all tiles that have a certain rigidity are mounted on the wall in approximately the same way. The work will require the same tools as for the "flexible brick", and besides this, for cutting this material it will be necessary to prepare a manual circular saw or grinder with stone disc.

The work on laying the cladding from this type of material is more complicated, since the finish already has a significant weight, and after installation it requires careful sealing of the joints between the tiles.

The lining process is carried out in the following order:

Laying should be carried out on a prepared, primed and relatively even wall.
The marking of the wall surface takes place in the same way as for the installation of any piece facing material: straight lines are beaten off along the upper and lower levels of the masonry, then, it is recommended that the entire distance between them be calculated and divided horizontally so that the intended number of rows can be accommodated in this area masonry, with the obligatory consideration of the thickness of the seams between them. It is especially important to carry out this process if there is not enough experience in wall cladding - marking will help to make the masonry perfectly even.

When marking, 10 ÷ 12 mm should be allocated for each of the seams between the rows.

Further, the adhesive mass is prepared, which is selected in accordance with the type of material on the basis of which the finishing tiles are made.

The laying starts from the bottom row, which is carefully verified by the building level, since the accuracy of the entire wall cladding will depend on its horizontalness. If the first row starts with a whole, then the second and all subsequent even rows with ½ or ⅓ tiles.
Further, glue is applied to the wall with a spatula with a layer of 3 ÷ 4 mm. After that, the mass is distributed with a notched trowel, which leaves grooves of equal height, ensuring the most even distribution of glue when pressing the tile. When laying some heavy types of tiles (the same clinker), it is additionally recommended to apply glue on the back side of the facing material. Therefore, before starting work, you should definitely study the instructions attached to the package, which clarify the nuances of installing a particular material.

During the installation process, it is necessary to control the evenness of each of the stacked rows.

To ensure that the width of the seams between the tiles on the entire surface to be lined is the same, some craftsmen use special calibrator tabs of the same size. They are temporarily installed between the rows, and after the adhesive mass has set, they are removed and installed again, but already on the upper rows. As such calibrators, you can use a wooden glazing bead or silicone posts.

For facing external corners, special curly elements are used that are able to mask existing chips and make the corners neat and protected.

Upon completion of the masonry and after the glue has completely dried, the seams between the tiles must be securely and accurately sealed with grouts specially designed for this purpose. You can fill the seams in different ways:

- Use ready-made formulations in tubes, using a special gun.

— Place the mixed grout in plastic bag, and then cut obliquely one of its corners to the width of the seam and gently squeeze the solution into the gaps between the rows.

Unlike PVC panels, MDF trim is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity, but it is perfect for leveling the walls of hallways, corridors, insulated balconies, and living rooms.

Manufacturers also thought about the design of the corners, making special curly elements for this.

Fiberglass panels

Special mention should be made of fiberglass panels. This facing material is made on the basis of ordinary cement with the addition of glass fiber fibers, which increases the strength of the plates tenfold. For external finishing, the panels can be additionally reinforced metal elements, which increase the weight of the structure, but make it resistant to mechanical stress.

Reinforced only with fiberglass, the panels have a not particularly frightening weight, and dimensions that are relatively compact in thickness. The solution for their manufacture is colored in bulk, so the plates are not afraid of small chips and abrasions. Some manufacturers add colored fiberglass to the molding sand, which is somewhat darker or lighter than the main tone, but in perfect harmony with it - this gives a very interesting effect. In addition, additional application of paint on the surface of already finished and assembled products is allowed.

Well suited for interior decoration, but still more often it is used to transform the facade of the walls of the building.

Environmentally friendly plates do not make the walls heavier, as they have a small mass. They perfectly protect surfaces from moisture and mechanical influences, as well as from the penetration of radio emissions into the house, and have a number of other attractive advantages. However, the cost of such facing materials high enough, so not every owner can afford such a finish.

Installation of panels "under the brick" on the wall

If the wall surface is sufficiently flat, then the panels can be fixed to it without installing a frame structure. Lightweight PVC boards are glued to a cleaned and primed surface using one of the polymer adhesives. For example, "liquid nails" are well suited for this.

Finishing panels based on MDF have a much greater weight, therefore, in addition to glue, they are fixed on the wall with dowels in four to five places.

GRP panels can be fixed to flat wall with cement-based tile adhesive.

In the event that the wall surfaces have significant distortions, they are corrected by fixing frame structure consisting of metal guides or wooden beam, set exactly in the right plane according to the building level. Some manufacturers make special subsystems for their products, mounted on a wall or on an installed frame. In this case, panels are hung on special elements of subsystems.

Subsystems may have different designs, therefore, when purchasing facing slabs and systems for fastening to them, it is necessary to check the compatibility and availability of the attached installation instructions.

It is clear that if it is planned to mount the panels on a subsystem, the frame elements must be located in accordance with the feature of this model.

The simplest type of fastening is plastic panels made according to the principle of siding construction. They have a special perforated mounting plate in the upper part, through the holes of which the plate is fixed on the wall or frame. In this case, horizontal elements of the crate are fixed to the wall surface, at a distance of the visible part of the slab.

Facing brick prices

facing brick

Installation of any facing panels starts from the bottom of the wall, usually from the corner elements.

Homemade options for decorating walls under brickwork

If you want to save money by making an imitation brickwork on one of the walls of an apartment or house with your own hands, you can use the original techniques developed by craftsmen.

There are several options that do not require special costs for the purchase of facing plates or panels, and also do not create any particular difficulties in installation:

Independent production of tiles from expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 10 ÷ 12 mm. For this purpose, it is recommended to use extruded material with higher performance than conventional white foam.
Creating a brickwork relief using a stencil.
Reproduction of the desired pattern on the wall using masking tape.

Tile "under the brick" of expanded polystyrene

If it is planned to use the process of melting the edges of the foam in the manufacture of tiles, then work should be carried out on outdoors, protecting the respiratory tract with a respirator, since this material is combustible, and when burned and melted, it releases toxic substances.

The first step on the prepared leveled and primed wall surface, with the help of a ruler, a plumb line, a building level and a simple pencil, is the marking of the “brickwork”. The wall is drawn into horizontal stripes and vertical partitions, which determine the size of the brick and the seams between them and the masonry rows.
The second step is to mark the expanded polystyrene sheet on tiles of the selected size.

Then the material is cut into individual elements with a clerical knife. The number of such blocks should correspond to the number of bricks required to decorate a certain section of the wall on which the markup was made.

Further, in order to achieve the most reliable effect of imitation of a brick, you need to work on the resulting tile - this can be done in different ways. Its surface is treated with sandpaper in different or one direction, with a knife or other sharp instrument, notches and grooves are made on it. You can also use a heated soldering iron for this purpose.

Another option is to melt the edges and outside of the tile with a regular lighter or burner. In this case, the front surface acquires soft smoothed shapes.

After painting the tile in the selected color, its relief will be more pronounced. The application of paint can be done before the installation of the tiles or after the wall cladding is fully completed.

Coloring can be done with a brush or spray coloring composition from a balloon. The main thing is that the paint does not cause the dissolution or softening of expanded polystyrene - it is better not to experiment with organic-based compositions, preferring water-soluble ones.

Styrofoam tiles are laid according to wall markings using liquid nails glue, which is applied to the back surface with three points 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.
The final step will be the design of the seams between the bricks and rows.
It should be noted that if the design does not provide for the selection of tile joints in a different color, then the lining can be painted even after the grout solution has dried.

Imitation of brickwork using a stencil

In order to make an imitation of brickwork using a stencil, you will need a cement-based mortar. It is best to purchase it in the form of a ready-made dry mortar for plastering works, since it already has all the necessary additives that make it plastic and convenient for work.

The solution can be made independently from two materials - it is plaster and adhesive cement mixture, which are taken in proportions of 1:1. To increase the plasticity of the solution, add a tablespoon of liquid detergent per 5 kg of the finished mixture.

The wall must be well cleaned, primed and dried.
The solution can be applied to its surface with a wide spatula or simply with a rubber-gloved hand. The thickness of the applied layer should be equal to the thickness of the stencil strips. This moment will depend on what surface the brick should have - smooth or rough.
Further, so that the stencil does not have “stickiness” with the layer of the applied solution and is easily separated from it, it should be moistened with water - this can be done with a sponge or a damp cloth. If the stencil is made of rubber, then you can simply dip it into a basin of water, but in this case you need to wait until its excess stacks, otherwise excess moisture can ruin the whole job.
After that, the stencil is pressed against the applied fresh plaster and gently pressed, so that the relief of the brickwork remains on it.
Further, the stencil is removed and applied further, next to the freshly pressed relief. Here you need to try and attach it so that the masonry is even, and its horizontal seams do not skew.
When the relief is applied to the entire surface, it is left to dry completely.
After drying, the wall should be completely covered with one color - usually selected for this light shades, since it will be easiest to apply any color on them, as well as highlight with a dark shade or leave all the seams of the masonry light.

Painting imitation brickwork is already a creative process, so you can afford various fantasies. In this case, of course, it must be borne in mind that the chosen color will set the mood for the entire interior of the room.

Creating a brickwork relief using plaster and masking tape

For this technology of reproducing brickwork imitation on the wall, the composition of the cement plaster mortar and masking tape already mentioned above will be required. Some masters even use electrical tape, however, it sticks worse to the wall, and high-quality masking tape has excellent adhesion to any surface.

The width of the tape should be no more than 14 mm, and if you could not find an adhesive tape of this width, you will have to buy a wider one and carefully cut it right in the skein along the width in two. If its edges are not perfectly even, this is not at all scary, since this factor will not affect the accuracy of the relief, but rather, it will play into the hands.

The first step is the prepared surface of the wall to be lined under the brickwork.

Further, masking tape is glued along all the marked lines on the wall. It should be fixed in such a way that the edges of the horizontal segments of the adhesive tape extend beyond the edges of the surface being formed, and the solution should not be applied to them, and the vertical segments should be well glued to the horizontal ones, always on top of them.
Then, on the surface of the wall, over the pasted lattice of adhesive tape, using a wide spatula, a solution is applied, with a layer thickness of 5 ÷ 6 mm - the height of the relief will depend on this parameter. Do not apply too thick a layer, otherwise you will have to cover the seams with grout.
After applying the solution completely to the entire wall, it can be walked over with a wet rubber glove to create a surface texture. If you plan to leave the surface of the “bricks” even, then you should not touch the mortar layer.

The most interesting stage in this method of imitating brickwork is the removal of masking tape, since after this operation the relief of the wall will be immediately visible. Several strips of adhesive tape are picked up from one of the free sides and begin to gently peel off from the wall, and as a result, seams between the “brick tiles” form in place of the peeled off tape. After removing the tape from the entire surface, the wall must be left to dry completely.

It is recommended to dry the wall before painting - this operation will make the surface more pliable for the next stage - painting, as the paint will lie on the surface evenly and will not be absorbed into the plaster layer. What shades to choose for the wall - it already depends on the preference of the master.

Video: How to imitate brickwork with plaster and masking tape

From all of the above, we can conclude that the construction market has an overabundance of various materials that ideally imitate brickwork or other stone surfaces. Sometimes the quality of the imitation is such that, when finished, it cannot be distinguished from real brick in terms of texture and color. Well, if the finished tiles or panels do not fit into the family budget in any way, then it is quite possible to use one of the more economical methods and decorate the wall using affordable materials for this.

At all times, people have sought to make their home beautiful. Various finishing materials unusual furniture, original ceiling designs and much more allows you to give any room style and originality. But quite often a situation arises when, with a minimum of funds, you want to get the most spectacular result. It is to this option that the walls are finished with brick plaster.

Peculiarities

A brick wall fits well into almost any interior, as it is one of the oldest building materials. Whitewashed, such walls go well with Provence, Shabby Chic styles. Red and brown brick are an integral part of the loft style, while gray and beige will perfectly complement the modern urban design of kitchens, bedrooms and halls.

It is the design of the room with the help of bricks and its imitations that brings together different interior styles., as it goes well with modern metal interior details, and with antique wood products.

Brick-like finishing in the house is always a bright, fresh solution that attracts the eye. And even if brick wall not in the house, it will not be difficult to create it with your own hands using plaster finishes.

materials

Plaster differs from other finishing materials in durability and excellent external data, a variety of textures, "naturalness" and excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. In addition, it is easy to maintain and allows you to further update the surface by painting.

There are many types of plaster. So, mineral plaster of a special texture will make the wall rough. By the way, it can be used for outdoor work, as well as on balconies and loggias. Venetian plaster very popular lately, but it is not used to imitate brickwork - it is an expensive material, which includes marble flour.

Plaster is sold in hardware stores in a dry form. At the heart of any plaster are binders, and sand, stone chips, fibrous additives, thickeners and paint can play the role of a filler. The most beautiful imitation of brickwork is obtained from gypsum plaster and graffito plaster, which is highly decorative. In addition to wall decoration, with the help of "graffito" they decorate fireplaces, doorways, walls on open loggia country house etc.

plaster "graffito"

gypsum plaster

If you are preparing plaster from a dry mixture, then its consistency should resemble thick sour cream, and you should not prepare too much of the mixture, because otherwise the solution will seize and it will no longer be applied.

For the convenience of transferring the pattern to the plaster, you can make a model of the end of the brick. Thick cardboard or linoleum is perfect for these purposes. On the brick, you need to mark the seams, indenting along the entire perimeter of the workpiece (on the front side), and also mark another central seam - in the middle. The brick model is used when drawing a masonry pattern on the wall and then gluing the pattern with adhesive tape. It is best to start marking from the top corner of the wall, simply tracing the model with a pencil.

Attention! If you have to plaster large spaces(trading floor or cafe premises), then you should think about saving materials.

This will help the application of plaster by machine. A mixture for mechanical plastering is cheaper than standard options. In addition, work with the use of modern equipment will save time and material will be spent less by 20–25%.

Application technology

Before starting work on decorating the walls with brick-like plaster, the surface must first be leveled with a primer, all distortions and differences of more than two centimeters must be eliminated. This must be done, because the plaster mixture will lie down with a layer of no more than 2 cm, and serious curvature will be noticeable. It is important to remember that for walls made of concrete or wood, a different primer is needed. After preparatory work completed, it is better to wait 2-3 days for the applied composition to dry completely. After you can start plastering.

For the image of bricks, gypsum plaster is best suited. It is distinguished by ease of application, lack of "shrinkage" (does not change after drying) and environmental friendliness. The mixture is applied in a layer of approximately 1-2 cm, while the total consumption of plaster will be 8-10 kg per 1 sq. m. Do not mix gypsum plaster with some other substances, such as cement adhesive. This can lead to cracks and even peeling of the plaster.

Imitation of brickwork using a plaster layer can be done in two ways: apply seams with a scraper or use masking tape for this purpose. To apply seams with a scraper, you will need spatulas, wide and narrow. The wide one is used for applying and leveling the plaster mixture, and the narrow one is needed for adjusting corners and small depressions. You will need a scraper, but an ordinary chisel or steel plate can play its role, as well as a rule from 1.5 to 1.8 m long and jointing used in stone work.

The plaster mixture is applied with a wide spatula, then leveled. The seams are marked after the mortar has dried, but has not yet completely set. For marking, you need to attach a rule to the wall and draw the seams. The width can vary from 5 to 10 mm, we recommend that you avoid too wide and deep seams when this method application.

In the markup, it is better to focus on the dimensions of a standard brick and use a pre-prepared model from thick cardboard or linoleum.

After the seams are drawn, you can begin to study them, that is, to directly apply the pattern. You need to start with long horizontal seams, passing under them with a scraper and removing the “extra”, and then proceed to short vertical ones. The recommended joint depth is 3-5 mm, and nice shape they can be given by working with embroidery.

Masking tape is a popular tool for depicting seams., although this method is more laborious than the first. First, the walls are primed, and then future seams are drawn on top (you can use an ordinary pencil). Masking tape is applied along the lines, and its ends should extend beyond the area of the wall being processed. The adhesive tape must be glued with an overlap.

Further, the entire space of the wall is covered with plaster along with seams and adhesive tape, and leveled. You can use a spatula, or you can apply plaster with your hands, it will turn out even more naturally. It is only advisable to do this with latex gloves. It is necessary, without waiting for the plaster to dry, pull the ends of the adhesive tape and remove it along with a part of the plaster. If the tape still breaks, you can use any sharp object to release its tip.

The main problem is that the masking tape does not always neatly separate from the plastered surface. It can be removed with more than necessary part of the solution or tear. It is not worth delaying the work, because fast drying gypsum plaster will not allow you to carefully remove the adhesive tape. The edges of the bricks after removing the painting material must be further processed with a spatula and jointing. For those who find working with adhesive tape too complicated, there is an option to use ready-made stencils. They are sold in large building supermarkets.

Imitations of brickwork can be very different. Two common options are gypsum tiles imitating brickwork and drawing on wet plaster. If everything is clear with the first option, since it is very difficult to ruin a wall tiled “brick-like”, then the second option raises many questions. Choosing this technique, you need to understand how to apply the drawing accurately and which image is as simple as possible to perform. You don't have to be afraid of these finishing works- they are simple, do not take much time and even allow you to save it.

A lesson in drawing brickwork on plaster will bring joy and pleasure not only in the process, but also after completion of the work, if:

the seam lines will be slightly curved: a perfectly even brick wall is extremely rare, so small errors in the outlines will create the illusion of real brickwork;
paint the wall in a natural color (beige, milky white), and make the seams darker.
experiment with the texture and roughen the bricks, as well as additionally work out the edges, making them more noticeable, protruding;

brick imitation will be processed "antique" or painted accordingly;
bricks will be of different sizes or lengths, with natural notches or chips;
to make the edges smoother - an ordinary damp sponge will help with this, and the remaining solution on the edges can be removed with a dry rag.

Coloring will also help to give beauty and accuracy, and you can use both a brush and a spray gun to apply paint.

Beautiful examples in the interior

Imitation brickwork looks great in any living space. If you need to delimit zones, for example, to separate the dining room from the rest space, then a wall with imitation of brickwork will perfectly cope with this task.
To depict the texture of a brick, you can use different materials- a natural sponge, a metal washcloth for washing dishes, a brush for shoes and much more. When imprinting a natural sponge on wet plaster, a very beautiful, natural texture pattern is obtained.
For a natural finish, the imitation is dyed brick brown and the seams can be made lighter or darker. Brick-like finish looks harmoniously in the interiors of a modern urban loft style. It is almost impossible to distinguish a high-quality imitation from a real brick wall!

In modern design, you can often find interiors with indoors. This effect creates coziness and makes the room more “warm”. But for the sake of such an element, it is completely inappropriate to make a real brick wall where it does not exist according to the building plan. This is expensive, reduces the area of the room, and also creates an additional load on the foundation.

Just for such cases, there are decorative panels with imitation brickwork. And if the store option for some reason does not suit you, and there may be a lot of them: price, quality, color scheme, shape, size, etc., then we can bring to your attention a simple and inexpensive way to imitate brickwork with your own hands . And the biggest advantage of this method is that it does not require special skills, such as working with putty and other building mixtures.

To imitate brickwork you will need:

cardboard packaging boxes (necessarily thick cardboard)
PVA glue
hot glue gun and sticks
thick paper napkins
tassel
pencil
ruler
utility knife or scissors
paints, varnish

Working process

The surface on which the brickwork will be imitated (it can be a wall or a panel) must first be prepared. Clean the wall from old wallpaper, if necessary, prime with a special building primer or a solution of PVA glue and water 1 to 2. If the wall was covered with paint, then wipe the surface from dust and degrease.

Imitation of decorative brickwork

There are many types of bricks. It all depends on which one is more suitable for your interior. And, if there is an opportunity to experiment with the color of the brick, then you need to decide on the size of the bricks right away. The main dimensions of the brick can be seen in the figure.

In addition, the type of masonry depends on which side of the brick will be visible. Each side has its own name and will look completely different in the interior.

1 - bed
2 - spoons
3 - poke

There is different variants decorative brickwork: for example, the outer side can be fully laid out with a bed or a spoon, or it can combine different sides of the brick.

In our example, we will imitate red brick masonry, we will lay it with a spoon with dimensions of 228 × 65.

On a sheet of thick cardboard (packing box) we draw "bricks" of the desired size.

Then we cut the sheets along the marked lines with scissors or a clerical knife and a ruler.

The "masonry" in the interior can be either solid or open to us some kind of image. For clarity, in this example, we took a photo from the calendar. In the interior, this can be a drawing, photo wallpaper, stucco, etc.

We mark the borders of the picture. If the boundaries according to the plan should go under the decorative brickwork, we place the drawing on the wall. We glue, draw, sculpt.

Part of the resulting "bricks" cut in half. This is necessary so that the masonry goes in a checkerboard pattern and looks realistic.

We begin to glue the "bricks" to the surface. This can be done with glue heavy wallpaper such as vinyl. You can use PVA glue or any other convenient for you to work with. After some experiments, I settled on this method: construction PVA glue + hot glue gun. If we consider them separately, then the PVA glue dries for a long time and does not immediately fix the bricks, and the hot glue gun, if used without PVA, consumes the rods very quickly. Therefore, we do this: we apply PVA glue to the entire rectangle, with the exception of the corners themselves. At the corners, we apply glue from a thermal gun. Hot-melt adhesive immediately fixes the “brick” in the right place, and PVA securely fixes it within a day.

It is most convenient to start laying from the corner. We fix the first "brick" in the lower left corner.

We will fix the next one at a certain distance, leaving room for an imitation of a 07-10mm seam.

We retreat the same distance from above, starting to lay out the second row. It will start with a half of the "brick", so that the masonry is staggered.

When all the rectangles are glued, leave them to dry for the time indicated in the glue instructions. If this is PVA construction glue, then the drying time will take about a day.

When the glue dries and the “bricks” are securely fixed along the entire length on the wall or panel, we proceed to decorating with napkins. This is to give texture to our brickwork and hide the corrugation of the packaging board.

Napkins are needed dense, of high quality, so that, when soaked in glue, they do not tear or roll up.

With a brush or sponge, thickly apply PVA glue on top of the rectangles.

We crush the napkin in our hands to form folds.

And we apply it to the wall, in the place where the glue was applied. From above with a brush on a napkin we pass glue again.

We select the gaps between the rectangles with a brush or a finger.

Thus, we glue the entire wall. We make sure that there are folds and well-defined gaps - the seams between the masonry.

Let it dry for another day.

When the glue dries and hardens, we start painting.

The color is chosen according to the design. In this example, we are simulating a red brick. By mixing white, orange, red and black paint, we achieve a resemblance to original color bricks.

And we cover the "bricks". You can do this with a brush, you can use a sponge, imitating a slightly porous brick structure.

Then we pass with a thin brush the places of the “seams” in the brickwork. The color of the solution is also selected to your taste. But most often it has a slightly grayish tint.

Remember that the paint after drying becomes lighter than it seems in a liquid state. If after drying the color does not suit you, then the wall can be repainted until it acquires the desired shade.

When everything is ready, the folds in the bricks can be highlighted with a darker or lighter paint, thereby giving the masonry a little antiquity and texture.

We apply the paint of a suitable shade with a dry brush on the “bricks”.

Top paint is best varnished to protect the surface from moisture and dust.

Such walls in the interior look very believable and beautiful. The work is not difficult, you do not need to be a professional builder or finisher to complete it, the materials are available, and everything can be done to your liking by choosing colors and shapes for the interior.

Special home comfort and warmth gives the room brickwork. We are not saying that it is necessary to completely forget about plaster and build only brick walls ... Just a fragmentary imitation of brickwork in various zones room provides unlimited possibilities for the design flight of your creative imagination.

Using a real wall

If there is a brick wall in the room, you can remove the plaster from it, process it a little and get a masonry made of natural brick. Note - this is a real "genuine" brick wall!

The wall is cleaned of plaster residues, polished with a grinder with a petal emery disc. Inter-brick seams are additionally corrected with a mixture for plastering, hiding visible defects. In the final, the wall is covered with acrylic varnish or wax used for textured plaster. A shiny lacquered surface (if desired) is given a certain haze by local grinding with fine-grained sandpaper.

But! Not always, after removing the plaster, high-quality brickwork will be found under it. Salvation is imitation decoration! And less dust...

Imitation Finish Options

How to make an imitation of brickwork? Consider options for practical ways that you can implement with your own hands, thanks to a simple technique for their execution.

textured wallpaper

Until recently, wallpaper with imitation of brickwork was a rather conditional way of “brick” decor. Today modern technologies printing and obtaining a textured surface of the wallpaper, make it easy to "deceive" the vision, but still they are far from a realistic surface.

At the same time, the method of decorating with paper, non-woven or vinyl wallpaper has its advantages:

minimum investment;
speed of installation (pasting);
ease of care - a flat washable surface does not hold dust well on itself.

When using the "wallpaper" option, you should pay attention to the innovative wallpaper made of foamed polymers on paper basis- they are as realistic as possible.

Here we are talking about ready plastic panels, whose surface already repeats . Using such panels and glue, you can quickly “dress” the wall in brick, both indoors and when finishing facades. Exterior finish often involves the installation of such panels on a profile crate, which allows you to additionally organize wall insulation.

Note! In order to stick such panels indoors with high quality, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls!

stencil embossing

The work is carried out on fresh plaster. A ready-made rubber or polymer flat stencil is used with a relief pattern of brickwork applied to it. The stencil (working side) is wetted with water by dipping into a bath or spraying from a spray bottle. Then he gently pressed with effort to the plastered wall. Next, the stencil is taken away from the wall, on the surface of which there are traces of the contours of the seams between the bricks.

The cycle of actions is repeated again. In this case, the stencil moves to a new place with the alignment of the horizontal lines of the "masonry" - otherwise it will turn out to be too "surreal".

The hardened plaster layer is primed or coated with building wax. Then the bricks and seams are painted. You can avoid staining by using a plastering solution already painted in one or more shades. When using "multi-color" plaster, a solution of different colors is applied to the wall in turn, and then smoothed. The result is a realistic brick texture immediately. The seams are additionally stained acrylic paint another shade.

When choosing paint for decoration, remember that after drying it will darken a little!

Tile masonry

This option is interesting because it is already used finished tile, which is simply glued to the prepared wall surface. This is similar to wall cladding with tiles, only it usually has a large thickness and, when laid between individual tiles, they leave fairly wide (1-1.5 cm) gaps.

Inter-tile gaps are covered with plaster or tile adhesive mixture. After drying, the seams are primed or immediately varnished. This keeps them from chipping.

If you have an old brick, a grinder with a diamond wheel, or even better a tile sawing machine, you can make a natural facing tiles on one's own.

Decoration tiles can be made from wood, Styrofoam or plaster, tile adhesive, extruded polystyrene foam, and even… corrugated board. We will talk about this in detail, but a little lower ...

Painted on plaster

As in the case of working with a stencil for drawing "bricks" on the wall, we need fresh plastering of it. The solution applied to the wall is smoothed with hands to obtain an arbitrary surface relief, reminiscent of the texture of a stone or old brick. After a slight hardening of the surface of the plaster, the contours of bricks or stones are drawn on it. This can be done under the ruler, but more realistic effect on can be obtained when drawing contours by hand.

Using a narrow (1-1.5 cm) scraper, the plaster is removed along the drawn lines, forming the contours of bricks protruding from the wall. We sweep the resulting grooves with a dry narrow brush - this process will remove sharp edges and crumbs of the plaster before it finally hardens.

Further finishing of the "bricks" of plaster is carried out in the same way as in the case of a stencil.

Bricks on putty

This method is convenient when you already have a finished plastered wall. A thin layer of putty painted in the color of a brick or stone is applied to it. Then, acting as in the previous method, forming the contours and relief of brickwork on a slightly hardened putty.

By applying putty, it is easier to create a relief using narrow construction tape. The cycle of actions is:

On a dry plastered wall, we make horizontal and vertical markings of the seams of the future surface. In this case, the rectangles of each subsequent row are shifted relative to the "bricks" of the previous one.
We paint over the marked seams with paint of a suitable color and wait for it to dry completely.
On top of the dried paint, we glue strips of narrow construction tape along the lines of horizontal seams, and on top of them we glue short vertical segments of adhesive tape. This sequence of sticking tape will make it easy to remove it in the future.
A thin layer of putty is applied over the adhesive tape to the wall, the surface of which is smoothed or left uneven, depending on the desired texture.
After light hardening of the putty, the adhesive tape is removed, tearing off the horizontal stripes. Since the vertical strips were glued on top of the horizontal stripes, they can easily be removed along with them.
Then a "technological pause" until the putty is completely hardened.
And then proceed to the final finishing of the resulting relief surface by the above methods.

Corrugated cardboard

Imitation of brickwork using corrugated cardboard is unique way perfect for decorating a wall minimal cost. To complete this design, you will need:

corrugated cardboard - thick boxes made of thick cardboard are suitable for this;
thick paper napkins - preferably high quality;
PVA glue in a large volume and a convenient wide brush;
hot glue and glue gun;
stationery knife;
Ruler and pencil;
varnish and paint - for final finishing.

Sequencing:

The surface is cleaned of old wallpaper and primed, and the painted surface is cleaned and degreased;
Corrugated cardboard is cut with a knife into rectangles according to the size of the sides of the brick;
For the convenience of sticking "bricks" on the wall, it is desirable to draw basic horizontal lines;
Each cardboard rectangle is smeared with PVA glue, but its corner parts are left dry. They are glued with a heat gun. This combination of two adhesive media allows you to instantly fix the "brick" on the wall due to drops of hot-melt adhesive, and then securely glue it after the PVA has dried over the entire plane;
Next, the stage of decorating cardboard rectangles by gluing paper napkins on them - they do a sort of decoupage on the wall. Glue is applied with a brush to the rectangles, and paper napkins are applied on top, which are again smeared with glue on top;
When gluing napkins, it is necessary to form the seams with a round stick of hot glue, a brush or just a finger so that they turn out to be recessed into the wall. Napkins smooth out the sharp edges of the rectangular "bricks", creating a realistic effect of a neat "embroidered" wall.
The next stage of such a finish after the glue has dried is decorative painting and applying a protective varnish to the wall. After complete drying, you get an interesting realistic wall decor.

Note! Napkins for such work are chosen of high quality - otherwise they will simply soak and roll in glue. Before gluing, it is advisable to crush them in your hands to form folds, which ultimately will allow you to more realistically imitate the structure of a stone or brick.

After complete drying, you get an interesting realistic wall decor.

Some design nuances

Imitation of brickwork in the interior of a room can both bring zest to it and “crush” it with its bulkiness in case of an ill-conceived design. It should be understood that masonry does not have to be on all walls of the room. It can fragmentarily appear on certain sections of the walls, it can serve as a decorative frame for some kind of picture, photo wallpaper, fresco or other element of the interior.

Therefore, even at the planning stage, it is important to present a complete image of the renovated room.

Any of the above methods, with high-quality performance, is able to create a realistic picture. Your imagination can expand the wall decor options in a way and make your home unique, cozy and beautiful - the main thing is to understand the basic principles for organizing such work.

By the way, you can also use the considered technologies to obtain the effect of masonry on bottles or vases - they will serve you as additional elements"brick" interior.

Today, the use of brick or its imitation in design is very popular. It is used in various rooms and styles: loft, industrial, Scandinavian. Many people like the idea of giving wall coverings an imitation of real brick, and there is nothing complicated in its implementation.

Finishing methods

There are two ways to do this finish. The first is gypsum tile cladding, which fakes brick and is applied over wet plaster. The second way is to imitate brickwork when creating a relief surface. This semblance of masonry will bring originality and freshness to the interior.

The surface of the walls, finished in brick, unites the strict lines of the rows and highlights the special decor of the texture of each square. The natural surface of a brick is rough and uneven, so many people use its imitation. This method of decoration is preferred to natural brickwork, and it belongs to the loft architectural style.

Peculiarities

When choosing a material for this finish, the following criteria are taken into account: aesthetics, pricing and harmlessness.

In this case, brick imitation plaster is the most suitable option, which has a number of advantages:

The purchase of this material does without large financial investments.
Wall cladding takes relatively little time.
Such a coating is applied in a thin layer, and you do not have to worry about narrowing the room.

It is easy to apply such a coating with your own hands, without involving specialists and avoiding additional expenses.
Brick plaster can decorate not only the surface of the wall, but also an apron in the kitchen, corners or doorways.
Such plaster imitates the finishing of expensive clinker tiles.

How to choose plaster

Before starting work, it is necessary to purchase all the necessary materials in advance. In terms of imitation of brickwork, gypsum plaster is most acceptable, while When buying, you should pay attention to the following characteristics of the material:

It should be easy to apply and have elasticity.
It is important that there is no shrinkage property after hardening.
Before application, there should be no preliminary and additional puttying of surfaces.
The material must be environmentally friendly and harmless.

But still, preference should be given to ready-made mixtures, they have greater elasticity and ease of use. This material, diluted to the desired consistency, is sold in a ready-to-use form. Such a mixture is a homogeneous mass that can be applied immediately. The advantage of such plaster is also that the container with the remaining mixture is tightly closed, and it can be used even after a long time.

Dry mixes can be varied and heterogeneous. They include various components, for example, an additive in the form of large stone chips. To do this, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging for which surface this composition is suitable.

For the primer of the working surface, a lot of different compositions are also produced in liquid and pasty form. But before this type of work, it is better to process the wall liquid composition deep penetration.

Application process

Before you start creating a simulated brick surface, you need to find out if the walls are suitable for such work. They must have a flat surface and not a "littered" state, a suitable wall relative to the floor has an angle of 90 degrees. It is important that there are no large pits, bumps and failures. If there are, using cement mortar, lighthouses and plaster mesh should be leveled.

You can evaluate the state of a surface by applying a long rule to it. If gaps of more than 3 cm per meter of length appear between the rule and the wall surface, proceed with leveling.

If there are small defects (crevices, small irregularities) on a straight wall, there is no need to plaster it, just repair the flaws with cement or putty. After complete drying, it is necessary to treat the surface with a deep penetration primer, having previously mixed glue into it. Priming is required, otherwise the decorative layer of plaster will begin to flake off and fall off over time.

Before work, you must plaster mortar , prepare an auxiliary tool so that it is always at hand if necessary: a roll of adhesive tape, a wide and narrow spatula, a rule or laser level and a lace for the exhibition of beacons. It is very convenient to direct the mixture with a drill, on which the mixer is attached - a special nozzle for thorough mixing. In order not to spoil flooring, lay the oilcloth.

After completing all necessary conditions you can start laying the plaster mixture. The simplest and most applicable method involves the addition of color to the induced solution. You just need to dilute the dry solution, as indicated in the instructions for use, add the coloring element there and mix everything thoroughly using a mixer.

If you have never encountered such work, in this case, you should not direct too much solution. After some time, you need to try to work it out, otherwise it will seize and become unusable for application. It is necessary to direct the solution to a certain viscosity until it acquires the consistency of thick sour cream and begins to slide off the spatula evenly, without falling in pieces.

The induced solution is taken on a spatula and thrown onto the surface, while smoothing upwards. If you want the surface to imitate brick, do not try to level the applied mortar too smoothly. The brick does not have a smooth surface, it is usually uneven and rough.

When decorating a brick, it is necessary to take into account the width of the seam, if not given condition the appearance of the finished surface will be unnatural. In this case, the dimensions of the most common brick are not very important, since this material is made both elongated and square.

Currently, textured and embossed non-standard bricks are produced. And this type of plaster can imitate. Starting to perform such work, it is preferable to have some experience gained when finishing by imitation of ordinary standard bricks.

When applying seams between falsified bricks, use a ruler, or better, a rule. Then the line will be perfectly flat. If you want a curved line, you can draw it by hand. The seam must be done before the solution hardens on the surface. When carrying out the strips, excess will appear, which are well cleaned with a dry cloth.

Thus, each applied pattern is “drawn” in turn. A prerequisite is that the coating must be wet, the decor must be applied even before the mortar sets or hardens. After this process, the surfaces are allowed to harden and should not be touched during drying. To obtain the original texture of the bricks, you can draw on the decor with a dry and hard brush.

After the wallcovering has dried and gained strength, use sandpaper and sand the decor, but this depends on your preference. The last point is the removal of all unnecessary plaster elements that spoil the pattern. Post-processing of the received decorative surface will depend on the type of solution used and the presence of coloring elements in it, which are not always added.

Color

It does not make sense to leave a plaster imitating brick in a natural light gray tone. That's why they paint it. In this process, there are many design options and complete freedom of choice, it all depends on your taste. natural brick It has different shades, so you can mix several color pigments, achieving the best visual similarity.

You can first apply a layer of paint of one color, and after a few minutes create a different color or give individual bricks more bright view. In natural brickwork there is a variety of shades, therefore, a decorative coating that imitates brick can have many tones.

You can experiment with colors without fear of spoiling it., bricks are currently produced in a variety of colors - from bright to dark. And few people will be able to guess that the “masonry” is fake. Spoil the look of the interior can only be a mismatch of masonry imitation according to color scheme furnished or flooring. Therefore, when covering, select matching tones.

Also, a decorative coating that imitates brick is made by hand using adhesive tape. For this process, construction tape is required in width equal to the seam during masonry. Then, on the wall covering, which is finished with plaster imitating brick, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn along the ruler corresponding to the connecting seam. In this case, it should be taken into account that the vertical lines through one horizontal row are shifted by half a brick. The drawn strips are painted over the entire length with a paint similar to the color of the applied mixture, and after drying, adhesive tape is glued to the painted lines.

Be sure to glue the horizontal ones first, and only then - vertical stripes, in a different order, it will be difficult to remove them later.

Then a layer is applied to the glued tape decorative plaster, while smoothing it and leveling it. Smoothness will depend on your preference for embossed or perfectly flat decor.

As soon as the applied solution begins to harden, remove the adhesive tape. A little effort is enough to pull the horizontally pasted strip, and the whole structure will peel off easily. After complete drying, any finishing method can be applied. decorative wall under the brick