Royal pelargonium: care and cultivation at home. Geranium royal

Geranium not blooming? There is a solution to the problem

About a flower with beautiful inflorescences - balls, called geraniums, all flower growers and those who just love to decorate their home with flowers know. One cannot remain indifferent to the fact that this rather unpretentious plant pleases others with bright and abundant flowering for more than six months.

But it happens that this riot of colors stops, and the mistresses of their favorite flowers face the question:

Why did the geranium stop blooming? What to do?

Possible causes at home

Pelargonium flowering begins in February - March and can continue until late autumn. Then comes the period when the flower needs rest, at this time it gains strength and prepares to pick up buds again. If this does not happen in due time, then there are problems, both for the flower and for its owner.

Geranium, which has ceased to bloom, disheartens almost all lovers of this plant. And before you do something, you need to understand the possible causes.

And there may be several:

  • the wrong pot
  • heavy soil
  • violation of the rules of watering
  • too high temperature during rest
  • lack of fertilizer
  • lack of lighting
  • untimely pruning
  • no transfers

Having dealt with what prevents pelargonium from blooming, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive revision of the “non-flowering” plant.

Why does geranium not bloom, but gives only foliage


Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?

Royal Pelargonium is more demanding to care than other types of geraniums. It blooms not so long, but these huge beautiful flowers fascinate at first sight. What to do so that the queen of geraniums pleases with flowers.

You need to know the basic rules of care. Common Causes no colors:

  • incorrect temperature, lack of light;
  • a large pot and the wrong fertilizer;
  • untimely transplant;
  • wrong cut.

As mentioned above, like any geranium, the royal one also loves abundant sunlight, in the shade it stretches out, sheds buds.

She is afraid of drafts, you need to provide her with a quiet, bright place.

The pot should not be large, until the roots completely fill it - flowering will not occur.

In winter, you need to give the flower a break:

  • in a bright place
  • cool +12+15°С,
  • Reduce watering to 2 times a week.

Royal geraniums are pruned in autumn or in early spring. For lush flowering, the tips of the shoots are pinched over 4-5 leaves.

Subject to these simple rules geranium will delight you with its flowers, as in the photo.

Pelargonium royal, or as it is also called royal geranium - is very beautiful flower(plant), whose history begins with South America. As you already know, there is a tropical climate. Royal pelargonium was brought to Europe around the eighteenth century, it was from that very moment that breeders began to breed a huge number of varieties of this flower.

This plant is very popular for its the most beautiful flowers, however, for this it is necessary to look after him very closely.

If you correctly and carefully monitor and care for the royal pelargonium, then the diameter of the inflorescences can reach as much as twenty-five centimeters. But basically the average size of inflorescences is fifteen centimeters.

Peduncles have different lengths, from about five to ten centimeters, and the size is inversely proportional to the area (size) of the inflorescences.

The diameter of the flower is from five to seven centimeters. In the bud itself, the leaves overlap those below them in the form of a fan. Color and shape come out randomly.

You can also find a variety with purple, lilac and white flowers. Most likely there is no such color of a red tint in which the flowers of the flower simply were not painted.

The buds themselves come with contrast inclusions centered or identical. In their form, they can be terry and simple with wavy, even or corrugated edges. Flowers just look great in photos.

Flowering will last from three to four months, unless of course the royal pelargonium is very well cared for, and provided with excellent top dressing.

Flowering is much shorter than other types of pelargonium. You can extend this period only with the timely removal of dried buds, as well as the application of fertilizers (mineral) with phosphorus and potassium, some people who work with flowers for this make a special inoculation of royal pelargonium on other types of this flower.

The smell during the flowering period is not observed, in any case, a sharp one, so most consider this more an advantage than a disadvantage, because not everyone likes the rich aroma of pelargonium (due to allergies, for example).

Care for royal pelargonium at home

As we have already said, caring for royal pelargonium at home is a rather complicated process. Even with the smallest violations of the rules for caring for a plant, flowering simply disappears.

Royal pelargonium grows very poorly in the shade, however, it also does not approve of the direct rays of the sun, the leaves can get a so-called burn.

Overfilling or underfilling will approximately equally badly affect the royal pelargonium. The flower can also be affected by various kinds of pests and diseases. Here are some of the most important rules for caring for a royal pelargonium plant at home.

Light - Royal Pelargonium loves sunlight in the right proportions, then it will bloom very plentifully and for a long time. You also have the opportunity to put the plant on the southern windowsill, but you will need to keep an eye on it so that the direct rays of the sun do not fall on the leaves, otherwise they will burn.

V winter period it is necessary to highlight the royal pelargonium additionally, because if the plant does not have enough light, then the stems will be very much stretched in length.

Temperature - V summer period the temperature in the room where the flower is located should not reach the limits of twenty-four degrees. In winter, the flower should be given the necessary rest, such a period of calm is possible only at a temperature of twelve to fifteen degrees.

If this is not observed, then the royal pelargonium simply will not bloom. Exactly the same can happen when the pelargonium is overheated, or even if you just put the flower in a pot in a draft.

Watering - The flower loves moisture, so pelargonium needs to be watered very often and plentifully. Let the topsoil dry between every two waterings. Some flower growers advise others to water the royal pelargonium in the pan, and not in the pot itself. Water must be sufficiently settled before watering, you can also use boiled water.

Humidity - If the room is very dry, then there is no need to spray pelargonium. The flower is very afraid of water getting on flowers and leaves.

Fertilizers - Top dressing should be carried out in the summer and spring periods (when flowering takes place). the best way there will be the use of fertilizers with a sufficient content of phosphorus and potassium (mineral fertilizer), in which case you can extend the flowering period of royal pelargonium for another ten to fifteen days. Fertilizers need to be applied once every two weeks.

The soil - royal pelargonium strongly loves soil with a weak alkaline reaction or simple (neutral). In order to reduce acidity, you need to pour ash into the pot, since ash is also considered fertilizer.

It is important to provide a good, and that neither is proper drainage for pelargonium, this is necessary so that water does not stagnate in the so-called flowerpot.

If you can provide the royal pelargonium with the maximum proper care, then your flower will be able to go through a flowering period absolutely every year for two to three months (if excellent fertilizer, then you can prolong flowering even longer).

Most people who have royal pelargonium, despite the huge number of difficulties and factors, are simply happy and satisfied with the presence of this flower in their home, because the beauty of pelargonium is worth the effort that people made when growing this species.

Reproduction, as well as pruning and grafting

Royal pelargonium really likes propagation by cuttings - this is the most popular, simple and effective way.

However, it should be remembered that rooting in water is generally unsuccessful, because the cutting simply rots and then never takes root, so it should be planted directly into the ground.

So to speak, cuttings are carried out mainly in the second half of the last month of the summer period (August), or at the beginning of the month of the autumn period (September). A branch is cut from the very top, seven to ten centimeters long.

The cutting must have at least two or three knots. After cutting it, they leave it alone for a couple of hours, so that everything dries a little, after which it is planted in moderately moist soil with enough good drainage. We recommend mixing the soil with sand (coarse). The stalk does not need to be covered with a film.

In order to protect the sprout from all sorts of diseases, the soil is fried in the oven or treated with a special concentrated solution with the addition of potassium permanganate.

After such a special treatment, all cuttings of royal pelargonium are planted in the ground, however, it is necessary to land no earlier than forty-eight hours, because the ground must be prepared in advance.

After fourteen days (or more), when the rooting period ends, the plant is planted in a pot. In order to speed up this process, we recommend very carefully pinching off the leaves on the branch, in which case absolutely all the energy of the pelargonium will go to the formation of new roots.

Reproduction by seeds- probably the most time-consuming process, but if you still succeed, then you can bring out very hardy pelargonium plants with a sufficiently extended flowering period.

Special seed material is purchased in stores. Seeds are oblong, but somewhat small. These seeds are planted in a small shallow container.

The soil must be somewhat structural, most the best option there will be a mixture of sand and peat, plus ash will be a plus. Seeds are deepened into the ground by half a centimeter.

The landing itself is carried out in the middle of the winter period (February, preferably in its middle). The very first shoots appear after about thirty days. At the moment when two real leaves are already observed on the sprouts, they carry out the so-called picking into a smaller pot.

In winter, the royal pelargonium is drawn out, because it does not have enough light. We advise you to cut it before the flowering period begins. Around the end of February. The tops of the branches must be cut very carefully in order to form a very beautiful crown.

They can also be used for plant propagation. The pruning process itself should not be radical, because the flower will stop blooming.

Pelargonium royal is rarely transplanted, once every two to three years. It must be remembered that pelargonium blooms only in a cramped pot; a very spacious flowerpot will not work.

You can force the royal pelargonium to bloom a little longer only with the help of a special vaccination for other species. The best choice there will be a fragrant pelargonium or a unique species. On the zonal pelargonium, the royal simply does not take root.

For vaccination, you need to take a twig with three or two leaves, make a cut (necessarily oblique) in length from one centimeter to one and a half.

You must make exactly the same cut on pelargonium, after which you need to correctly combine the plant with a twig, then you can tie it with a woolen thread or simply wrap it with plastic wrap.

Difficulties

Pelargonium royal loves careful cultivation, but all sorts of difficulties often appear. For example, in some cases, pelargonium leaves turn yellow. We will explain why this happens.

If the yellowing is just at the tips, and the rest of the leaf is elastic, then your royal pelargonium probably does not have enough moisture. However, if the leaves simply rot and wither, then the reason for this yellowing is proportional, that is, overflow.

Also, if you moisten the soil too much, then the so-called water cushions may appear on the leaves. At very low air temperatures in winter, the leaves may take on a red color.

In such cases, pelargonium should be placed a little further from the window. And with a lack of lighting, the leaves of the royal pelargonium may generally fall off.

Royal pelargonium is susceptible to various kinds of diseases. For example, it is very dangerous when your royal plant the leg has turned black, in such cases it is simply impossible to save the pelargonium.

You just have to throw out the pelargonium along with the soil, and the pot itself should be treated with bleach. If there is an excess of moisture, then mold will appear on the leaves. gray color is caused by a fungus.

Such leaves must be removed as quickly as possible and after that, neat and proper watering should be established.

Of the pests, royal pelargonium is often affected by whitefly and weevil. You can destroy such pests with special insecticides, and if there are just a lot of such pests, we advise you to simply collect them.

Most flower growers are wondering why the royal pelargonium does not bloom. The reasons may be different, for example, imperceptible rot or fungal infections. It is necessary to carefully examine the leaves and stems, as well as the basal region.

Sick areas of pelargonium are removed and treated with so-called fungicides, while watering the plant must be significantly reduced.

The rapid fall of flowers will be associated with an excess of nitrogen in the soil or very dry air in the room. Pelargonium will not want to bloom in a very spacious pot.

The problem can also manifest itself due to the fact that there will be little lighting, in such cases the pagons become very long, and the flower stalks simply will not develop.

The temperature in winter and spring can also interfere with the flowering period, overheating in the summer is also included. Pelargonium is also harmed by a very frequent transplant.

Types of royal pelargonium

The list of species of such a flower as pelargonium is very large, we will highlight only the most popular. These include the following:

  • Sallymunro. Incredibly beautiful plant with pretty large flowers. The upper leaves are red, one might say burgundy in color with a dark tint, almost black with a white edging around the edges. The undersides are pink like apple blossom. Such a plant will bloom several times in one season.
  • German series candy flowers and its variety Candy Flowers Pink with Eye. The so-called large-flowered plant with a pink tint. The leaves will have black spots.
  • Candy Flowers Bright Red all the same german line candy flowers. The flowers are cherry in color with black blurred spots on the leaves. Plants branch quite well, and thus are able to form a beautiful crown, and also its advantage is long flowering.
  • Pelargonium royal Mona Lisa. Variety with incredible big flowers beautiful white color. In the very center, next to the red stamens, in some cases you can find thin strokes Pink colour. The edges of these leaves are wavy.
  • BlackPrince. An insignificant plant in size, up to forty centimeters in height. The flowers are plum-colored and the petals are silver-edged.
  • GeorginaBlythe. The plant is very small, a maximum of thirty-five centimeters in height. Flowers at this height are strangely large enough, with a bright red color and an orange tint. The throat itself is white. The edge of the sheet is wavy, in the form of ruffles.
  • Morwenna. The variety is quite compact. The flowers are large with a rich red color with a dark tint. The edge of the leaves resembles lace. This variety of pelargonium looks amazing in photographs.
  • WhiteGlory. This variety bears huge flowers from seven centimeters in diameter, white color. Plant height up to forty-five centimeters.
  • LavenderGrandSlam. The plant is of medium height with purple flowers. The uppermost petals will have dark feathers with a purple-dark tint.
  • Carisbrooke. This variety has light pink flowers. On the upper leaves you can see a thin marble pattern, it is made in the form of strokes and spots.
  • Regaliachocolate. The variety has large flowers with a dark red color and a chocolate tint. The leaves are very wide open, and their edge is even.
  • Mandarin variety. Incredible medium sized plant with delicate orange color. In the center are white buds. The edge of the leaves is smooth with white edges.

It is better for you to choose a plant to your taste, while taking into account the characteristics of absolutely each variety. The most correct and accurate care, then it will delight you with flowering every year. The most important thing is to love pelargonium.

Among the geraniums there are quite unpretentious plants, which are not demanding on growing conditions and do not create problems even for a novice grower in the process of growing them. Royal geranium is clearly not from this "opera". This indoor flower requires constant attention and specific care. In the absence of these conditions, it stubbornly does not bloom and does not please your eye with lush and unique in its beauty buds.

The thing is that the royal pelargonium is a native of the hot and humid climate of South America. She feels great in the conditions high humidity air and in the absence of direct sunlight. Of particular importance is the regular and quantitative characteristics of irrigation. It should be moderate but constant. In summer, the plant should be watered early in the morning (before 10 o'clock) and late in the evening (after sunset). In winter, watering is limited to 1 time per day. At the same time, no more than 50 ml of water per 1 mature plant. The earth ball should be soaked, but not wet. Otherwise, root rot, and bacterial infections join, which prevent abundant flowering and development of the stem part.

Photo of royal geranium and description

In the proposed photos, the royal geranium is presented in various variations varieties and selections. This plant is a favorite among flower growers from all over the world. Therefore, new varieties with the original color of the petals are constantly appearing. Terry royal pelargoniums are more common. They have a rich color of the petals and a wide spherical shaped cluster of peduncles.

In the photo of the royal pelargonium, you can see the Pink Mikado variety. It is distinguished by a compact bush size, rich dark green leaves and a slight pubescence of the stem. The color of the petals ranges from pastel pink to deep salmon. In the center of each petal there is a dark oval speck that gives out the royal pelargonium.

The following photo shows Aristo Schoko - a variety of royal geraniums, which has a rich red color of the petals. In the center of the cervical part of each petal is a bright spot of an oval shape and dark red color.

If you want an exotic look, then look at the photo of the royal Barkarole geranium. This is a bright motley color with a real riot of colors. The edging of each petal, which has a silvery sheen, gives refinement and exoticism to the variety. The edging of the buds, combined with bright yellow, orange, white and pink petals, gives the royal geranium flower an attractive appearance. Widely used to form harmonious interior designs in apartments, country houses and offices.

For lovers of classic interior design options, there is the Imperial variety. In the photo you can see compact plants with delicate beige petals that adorn rich pink spots in the center.

For the first time, royal pelargonium was brought to Europe at the end of the eighteenth century. Since then, selection work has been going on endlessly, as a result of which more and more new hybrid forms of this plant appear. Therefore, the varieties of royal geranium listed above are far from full list. These are simply the most popular and sought-after varieties.

A general description of the royal geranium pelargonium includes information about the average height of an adult plant. In most cases, at home, royal pelargonium reaches a height of 60 - 80 cm. More tall plant it is not advisable to grow, since the buds are located only at the apical points of growth. At a height of 1 meter, decorative properties indoor flower are completely lost. However, in a garden, you can also grow a one and a half meter bush as an experiment. But it is better to use it as a background for undersized flowering plants.

The special chic of royal pelargonium, judging by the description and cultivation practice, is the inflorescence of buds. They can reach a width of up to 25 cm. But this is with proper care at home. On average, these are standard inflorescences with a diameter of up to 15 cm. The length of the peduncle can reach up to 10 cm. The more mineral fertilizers of the potassium and phosphorus groups are applied during the preparation for flowering, the larger the diameter of the inflorescence and the shorter the peduncle.

A distinctive characteristic is the presence of dark, rich color oval spot in the center of each petal. According to their structure, royal pelargonium flowers can be either simple or double. The shape of the petals can be with a slight wavy structure or flat concave. There are forms of corrugated flowers of royal geranium. Leaves are serrated, oval or rounded. The leaf has a rough surface with slight pubescence. The color of the foliage depends on the condition of the plant. A healthy indoor flower has rich emerald foliage that tightly covers the central trunk and all shoots.

The shades of the buds can include dazzling whites, reds, pinks, purples, yellows, oranges. The flowering period is not long and is a maximum of 6 months. The indoor flower of the royal geranium begins to bloom in early March.

Royal Geranium Care

Timely and proper care of royal geraniums allows you to form a regular and strong bush during the first year of life, which in the second year of its life will give you lush bright buds.

Caring for royal pelargonium begins from the moment you decide to house this plant. You need to choose the right place to land. Royal geranium does not bring drafts, dry air and direct sunlight. Also, the plant does not like the high air temperature and insufficient watering. However, waterlogging of an earthen coma will not do anything good.

As you understand, the optimal place for growing is the north or east window, under which the battery is not located. central heating and which is not used to ventilate the premises during the cold season. In the spring, summer and autumn periods, the royal geranium feels great in a glazed loggia. However, when the threat of the first frost appears, the plant should be removed to the room.

In the spring and summer, ambient temperatures up to 25 degrees Celsius are suitable for the growth of geraniums. In autumn and winter, you should not allow the temperature to rise above 20 degrees Celsius.

To organize the proper care of royal geraniums at home, planting is important. For growing, choose ceramic pots. They maintain the optimum temperature of the earthen coma and ensure uniform air distribution. There must be a drainage hole to eliminate excess moisture. Pour expanded clay or any other drains at the bottom of the pot. Next, fill the container with soddy soil with a high organic content. You can immediately apply 1 tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizers to ensure sufficient plant nutrition during the period of green mass gain. After planting, keep the royal pelargonium for 2 weeks in a shady place and water 2 times a day.

Royal geranium should be transplanted no more than 1 time in 3 years. And it is best to refrain from this event. This indoor flower tolerates a transplant extremely painfully and may even die.

Also, caring for royal geraniums includes the timely application of top dressing. In spring and summer it is necessary to make mineral fertilizers 1 time per week. Potassium and phosphorus should predominate. In autumn and winter, apply nitrogen and organic fertilizers once a month.

Be sure to shape the plant by pinching. The first pruning is carried out at the moment when the plant reaches a stem height of 15 cm. All tops are cut off by 2 cm. The second pinching is needed at the moment when side shoots reach a length of 5 cm. Trim all their tops by 1 cm. After that, you will get a spherical shape of a bush, which, with proper care for royal geraniums, will give abundant flowering in the second year.

Propagation by cuttings of royal geranium

At home, it is advisable to propagate royal geraniums by cuttings. Although propagation by seeds is not ruled out. In this case, sowing is carried out in the first half of February in structured loose soil to a depth of 0.5 cm. Floors as needed. Picking in the phase when the seedlings have 2 true leaves.

Reproduction by cuttings of royal pelargonium is available to every grower if there is an adult plant. In spring or autumn, cuttings up to 10 cm long are cut. For this, it is better to use a sharp knife. Cut at a 45 degree angle. Immediately after cutting, 2 leaves are removed from the bottom, and the cuttings are placed in water at room temperature for 7-10 days until the roots appear.

After that, the cuttings are rooted in light structured soil in containers of small diameter. Transfer to permanent place performed after 2 months. To improve the rooting process, it is important to prepare the soil mixture. Add the same amount of building or river sand to any soil. After mixing, pour all the soil with boiling water. A strong solution of manganese is also suitable for disinfection. But after watering them, plants can be planted after 48 hours.

When rooting has passed, the growth of the top begins. Be sure to cut it back by 1 cm. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots.

Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?

Many beginner flower growers are wondering why the royal geranium does not bloom. This may be due to improper care, frequent transplants and the presence of bacterial and fungal infections. First of all, carefully inspect the plant for dark spots on the leaves, fluff on the stems and rot in the basal part. If signs of disease are found, then the entire root system from the ground, rinse under running water and put for 2 - 3 days in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Clean up or remove all affected parts of the plant.

Prepare fresh soil. The pot, if the same one will be used, is disinfected with a solution of bleach. The soil before transplanting is also disinfected with boiling water. Replant the plant and carefully observe the appearance of new signs of disease.

Also, royal geraniums do not bloom if improper care and growth conditions are provided. For example, excessive dryness of the air leads to the systematic fall of buds and peduncles. Their laying occurs only if the soil contains sufficient amounts of phosphorus, potassium and manganese. With excessive nitrogen application, a rapid set of green mass occurs and there is no flowering.


Another option why royal geranium pelargonium does not bloom is too large a container in which the plant grows. Tall, but not wide pots are more suitable for this indoor flower. This ensures long-term abundant flowering. A large pot leads to the growth of green mass and the absence of budding.


Among the relatives, the royal geranium stands out for the size and brightness of the flowers, as well as the exactingness of care and a somewhat capricious disposition. But the latter circumstance does not stop flower growers, and more and more lovers of ornamental crops are trying to tame the obstinate beauty.

Royal geranium: features and possible difficulties

The name of the species Pelargonium grandiflorum or Pelargonium regal is fully consistent not only with the character, but also appearance indoor flower. Indeed, the flowering of this variety of pelargonium is strikingly different from the usual prudes on balconies and window sills. But looking at a photo of a royal geranium with the names of varieties and a description of the characteristics of plants, flower growers should know that the slightest violation of the conditions of detention or lack of care threatens that the “royal lady” will refuse to bloom or shed buds very quickly.

And these are not all the "pitfalls" that a florist who wishes to decorate the collection with royal representatives of the pelargonium genus will have to bypass:


  1. Even the full observance of agricultural technology and care for the pet cannot prolong flowering, which is shorter than that of common zonal geraniums.
  2. Plants are more difficult to acclimatize if they are taken out to the veranda or garden in the summer.
  3. Propagation of royal geraniums by cuttings, and even more so by seeds, requires more attention and time.

If an amateur indoor plants cope with the character of a bright beauty, he will be rewarded with large simple or double flowers all shades from white to deep burgundy. At the same time, the wavy, even or jagged petals of the corollas of the royal pelargonium are sometimes decorated with stripes, spots, speckles or veins of contrasting tones. Often the richer, brighter color of the upper petals is combined with the delicate tones of the lower part of the flower, and the corollas themselves are collected in small umbrella inflorescences.

The foliage of royal geraniums has an even green color, but there are also variegated varieties. On average, the flowering of plants lasts about 3-4 months. But for this, the culture requires regular watering, pruning and creation. favorable conditions for growth.

Conditions for growing royal geraniums

Usually garden and indoor geraniums- these are clear contenders for the title of the most unpretentious and undemanding houseplant. But their royal relatives love attention and care. If the grower is tormented by the question: “Why does the royal geranium not bloom, being next to the lush caps of bright zonal varieties?”, you need to blame not the plant, but yourself. Obviously, the culture is not entirely satisfied:

  • selected watering mode;
  • room temperature;
  • the presence of a draft;
  • How is pruning done?
  • soil quality or pot size.

To care for royal geraniums at home, it is important to create conditions in which the plant would be comfortable throughout the year. This variety of pelargonium:


  • does not tolerate overdrying of an earthy coma;
  • feels bad in an excessively wet dense substrate;
  • it quickly stretches out and loses its decorative effect without the proper amount of light, but even under staring direct rays it is uncomfortable for her.

Without additional shading on the south window, geranium leaves and flowers are threatened with burns and rapid withering. The optimal location of the royal geranium is east or west. But even here in winter it is better to illuminate the plants with phytolamps, extending their daylight hours to 12–14 hours. This measure will allow you to keep the compact shape of the bush without deep pruning.

Well-being and lush flowering of geraniums contributes to the correctly selected temperature regime:

  1. In the summer months and in spring, when the vegetation is active, the flowers of the royal geranium are kept at a temperature of 22 to 25 ° C.
  2. In winter, development slows down somewhat, so plants need cooler air. In order for the royal geranium to lay buds and prepare for the next season, it needs a temperature of 12-16 ° C.

Plants do not respond well to heat. In too warm room a green pet will slow down growth, and some varieties stop developing altogether and refuse to form flower buds.

Care for royal geraniums at home

In the warm season, all plants, including royal geranium, require more frequent and plentiful watering than in winter and autumn. Water must not be allowed to accumulate in the pan under the pot, if this happens, the moisture is immediately drained. Irrigation water used at home when caring for royal geraniums should be soft and warm enough.

The soil mixture for geraniums is universal. It makes no difference whether a regular zonal specimen or a “royal person” is planted. For the substrate, sand, humus, peat and garden soil are taken in equal proportions. Be sure to make drainage at the bottom of the pot, otherwise moisture stagnation and damage to the peripheral roots cannot be avoided.

Since all geraniums do not tolerate transplanting too easily, as part of caring for royal geraniums, as in the photo, at home, plants are transferred to a new pot only if the old one is cramped and the measles system has filled its entire volume.

While the roots are braiding the soil ball, and the plant feels good, the transplant can be replaced by adding a fresh substrate directly under the bush. The procedure is carried out in the spring, combined with top dressing and watering.

Flowering in royal geraniums begins earlier than in related species, everything related to transplanting or pruning is important to do in the first half of February, otherwise flower buds will not have time to form on the bush.

The answer to the question: "Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?" maybe an illiterate selection of containers for a flower. When choosing a pot for geraniums, they prefer small volumes. Transshipment into a spacious container threatens that the plant will refuse to bloom in favor of building up green mass.

For rapid growth and friendly flowering, plants should receive complex top dressing. It is easier to do this with liquid ready-made products in which the amount of nitrogen is minimal.

Royal geraniums are fed twice a month throughout the entire spring-summer growing season. Young seedlings are fed for the first time at the age of 6–9 months after rooting.

The tops of shoots obtained after pruning with several leaves can be used to propagate royal geraniums by cuttings. That's just to root this planting material you need not in water, but in a light substrate or in a peat tablet. Before this, the cut of the cutting is treated with crushed charcoal and dried for a couple of hours, and then 2–3 cm deep into the mixture with sand or perlite.

It is better if each cutting gets its own container of soil. This way of growing or using peat tablets will avoid the mass death of sprouts due to the spread of fungal infection or rot.

After 1-2 months of keeping at a temperature of 19-23 ° C and diffused lighting, the planting material takes root, and young royal geraniums can be planted in small separate pots.

In order for the plant to form a small bush, it must be pinched when 3-4 leaves are fully opened on it. Subsequently, the growth of new shoots is limited in the same way. Active branching will not only help form a rounded, even crown, but will also give impetus to the formation of many buds and lush flowering of royal begonia.

Pruning royal geraniums for lush blooms

The benefits of pruning royal geraniums are both in the lush flowering of plants and in the formation of an attractive compact bush shape. To achieve this result, work must be started after the completion of mass flowering. For most varieties, this occurs in late summer or the first week of September. Then, in order to less injure the plant, after 1–1.5 months, a second wave of pruning is carried out.

The autumn procedure is the most favorable and desirable, since after it the royal geranium is willingly covered with new shoots. They, in turn, are also pinched as soon as 3-5 large leaves open on the stems.

If pruning is carried out correctly and on time, then the geranium will bloom on time, but postponing the procedure or doing it irregularly, you can be completely left without inflorescences.

Although even in winter conditions in the presence of additional illumination and compliance with other requirements for the care royal geraniums at home, you can hold up to four pinches and get a lushly flowering specimen by spring. If pruning is carried out in conditions of lack of light, then the stems may stretch, so instead of the last January pinching, pruning of unsightly shoots will be required.


Our ancestors believed that geranium drives away evil spirits and protects the house. This flower can be used as medicinal plant. But most often, geraniums are bred for their lush flowers. Experts willingly share the simple secrets of caring for this plant, answering the question: why does the geranium not bloom?

geranium bloom

Homeland of geranium (pelargonium) - South Africa. In Europe, the flower appeared in the 16th century; it was brought to Russia in the 18th century. Usually geraniums bloom from May to October. Such a long flowering period attracts flower growers. When creating favorable conditions, you can make pelargonium bloom in winter.

Each indoor variety has its own characteristics:

  1. Zonal geranium. It got its name for the coloring of the leaves, on which dark circles are located, dividing the surface into separate zones with different colors. Zonal geranium blooms with small white, red, pink flowers. They quickly fall off, but others bloom to replace them, so the impression of continuous flowering is created.

    Zonal geranium gets its name from the sectional coloration of its leaves.

  2. Fragrant geranium. This variety has a special persistent aroma. It is not the flowers that exude the smell, but the leaves. Aromas are different: mint, orange, rose, lemon, apple, nutmeg. The bush is low, compact, with a lush crown. The leaves are small, the flowers are bright.
  3. Royal geranium. An unsurpassed beauty among all types of this plant. The bush is tall, leaves with serrated edges. The flowers are large (up to 15 cm in diameter), collected in inflorescences. hallmark: dark spot on each petal. The queen blooms beautifully and very amicably. But, unfortunately, its flowering period is two times shorter than that of ordinary geraniums - only three months.

Why does pelargonium not bloom

Geranium is unpretentious, but if certain growing conditions are violated, it refuses to bloom. The most common reasons for this are:

  1. Rare feed. The plant is demanding on potash fertilizers, but practically does not need organic ones.
  2. Frequent or heavy watering. Geranium does not tolerate excess moisture. It is easier for her to endure drought than to swim in water.
  3. The pot does not match the plant. A large volume of soil causes the plant to build up the root system, and postpone flowering. If the sprout is small, then several shoots can be planted in one container. Neighbors will help you quickly cope with the task of filling the pot with roots and move on to flowering.
  4. The bush has not been cut for a long time. Without timely pruning (spring or autumn), flowering can not wait.
  5. Bad light. Geranium does not like northern or northwestern window sills. She begins to reach up, trying to catch an extra ray of sunlight. Therefore, it is necessary to change the location of the plant. It is necessary to ensure that the geranium is not next to large and bushy neighbors.
  6. Wrong winter conditions. Ideal Conditions winter flower content: cool room (up to 15 ° C), no drafts, moderate watering and lighting for at least 5 hours a day.

How to make geraniums bloom

It also happens like this: everything is done correctly, but there were no flowers, and no. You can try shock therapy. Nature is so arranged that any living being seeks to continue the race when there is a threat to life. Therefore, it is worth trying to create unfavorable conditions for pelargonium so that it hurries to bloom and preserve its genus. You can use several methods for this:

  1. Radical spring pruning when leaving a minimum of eyes (2 or 3).
  2. Organization of a cool and hungry wintering.
  3. Summer transplanting from a room to a garden bed or balcony.
  4. Increasing the level of iodine.

Geranium does not like moving around the rooms from one window sill to another. When the first buds appear, it is better not to touch the pelargonium and leave it in its original place. You can’t even turn the other side to the sun, the plant can drop the inflorescences.

In order for the geranium to bloom, you can try to create unfavorable conditions for it.

Conditions for lush flowering at home

A few simple tricks for the lush flowering of geraniums:

  1. Watering the plant. Pelargonium should be moistened as the topsoil dries. In sunny weather or high room temperature can be watered every day. On cloudy and cool days, it is better to irrigate 1-2 times a week. Geranium tolerates a lack of moisture more easily than its excess. To understand that the plant is watered excessively is simple: the leaves of the geranium wither, gray coating and then rot. Then the base of the stem turns black, the roots are affected. If at the first signs of trouble it is still possible to save the bush by stopping the constant access of water, then at the last stage the geranium dies.
  2. Compliance temperature regime. If the geranium is in a room with an air temperature below 15 ° C, then the plant "falls asleep". The dormant state will continue until conditions are more suitable for flowering. In winter, if geraniums are given rest until spring days, this state allows you to gather strength for the next long flowering.
  3. Good lighting. sunlight stimulates the formation of buds. In the house for geraniums, a window sill on the south side is suitable. In the summer, in the garden under the bush, you need to allocate a sunny place with shading from the midday rays. If the pelargonium stalk is bare, then it signals a lack of light.
  4. Pot and soil selection. The capacity does not have to be large. The smaller it is, the faster the flowering of geraniums will begin. The soil must be composed of a mixture of turf and leaf soil, add humus and sand.
  5. No spraying. Geranium does not like water treatments. For a gardener, such a requirement of a plant is only at hand: you do not have to spend a lot of time on care.

Rules for pruning room beauty

A prerequisite for abundant and long flowering of geraniums is pruning. It should be carried out in compliance with certain rules.

  1. The formation of an ornamental bush should begin immediately after the rooting of the sprout. To do this, by pinching the main shoot, its growth is stopped. The plant produces side shoots and flower stalks along the entire length of the trunk.
  2. Pruning is carried out sharp knife at the level of the leaf bed. The tool should be disinfected: boil, treat with alcohol, ignite. The grower's hands should also be clean.
  3. It is worth paying attention to the location of the stems when pruning. All branches facing the middle of the plant are mercilessly removed to form a lush bush. beautiful shape without thickening in the center.
  4. Cut points are treated with cinnamon or charcoal powder to prevent fungal pathogens from entering fresh wounds.

Video: how to prune pelargonium

pruning in autumn

After flowering is completed, autumn pruning geraniums. It is carried out in the following order:

  1. Remove faded inflorescences, wilted leaves and stems.
  2. Determine what shape it is better to give the bush in order to choose shoots for cutting.
  3. Remove too long, as well as bare stems. Trimming is done at the bottom node. If desired, you can leave a small stump above the node, so that later fresh growth will appear from it and close this place.
  4. When preparing geraniums for wintering, it is recommended to remove a third of the length of the main stem.
  5. Pruning is prohibited during the winter months when the plant is dormant. At this time, it is permissible to pinch the shoots when the fifth bud appears.

Prepared in the fall and favorably overwintered, pelargonium will delight the owner with abundant flowering all spring, summer and autumn.

How to prune in spring

Pruning in the spring is considered mandatory, as it helps the bush to change greens and form many flower stalks. A small nuance: spring pinching and pruning inhibit the onset of flowering for several weeks. But the flowers are bigger.

Spring pruning occurs at the end of February-beginning of March. A large plant is pruned a little. Deep pruning will result in long foliage recovery and may prevent geraniums from flowering this season. It is enough to remove diseased and bare stems. You can experiment with small bushes: prune any shape. It is important to leave at least two kidneys.

Spring pruning helps the bush to change greens and form a lot of flower stalks.

Video: pelargonium after pruning

Formation of standard geranium

Geranium does not have to be a compact shrub. From pelargonium, you can create a magnificent standard tree. It looks unusual: a bare trunk over 1 m high, crowned with a blooming bouquet.

For a standard view, all lateral shoots are removed from geraniums. The central trunk is tied to a vertical support, after reaching the desired height, it is pinched. All side branches are again removed from the plant, leaving the top five shoots. Each of them is pinched after the appearance of the fourth kidney. Inflorescences form a large flowering ball. But with this method of circumcision, geraniums will bloom only after a year.

Standard geranium can compete on equal terms with a rose

How to feed geranium for its abundant flowering

Already in March, plants should be stopped feeding with nitrogen fertilizers, which stimulate the growth of green mass. For good flowering Phosphate fertilizers are required. In addition, they increase the vitality of the plant. A good top dressing is an extract from superphosphate. You can use special compositions for indoor plants, for example, "Ideal". During the flowering period, it should be fed once every two weeks, during the winter rest period - once for the whole winter. If the plant continues to bloom in winter without falling into a dormant state, it is necessary to fertilize in the "summer" mode.

In the first year after transplanting into fresh soil, top dressing is not required, the plant will have enough nutrients.

Phosphorus fertilizers are required for good flowering of geraniums.

Florists advise giving pelargoniums in small doses potash fertilizers. At home, an ash extract will be an ideal supplier of potassium. For this, 1 tbsp. l. wood ash pour 1 liter of water, insist for a day and drain. 1 st. l. dilute extracts in water and water the plant.

Another important element for abundant flowering pelargonium - iodine. It has a positive effect on the number of buds and the formation of inflorescences. The solution is prepared from the calculation: 1 drop of iodine per 1 liter of water. 50 mg of solution is enough for a geranium bush. It is necessary to water along the walls of the pot so that the solution does not get on the plant.

How to care for flowering pelargonium

Flowering geraniums require special care. Timely watering and top dressing keep flowering for long time. At the same time, it is worth observing the plant and changing its care depending on the signs that it gives:

  • when the leaves turn yellow, and then begin to fall off, this is a signal of a lack of moisture. The room may be too hot, therefore, it is necessary to water more often;
  • sluggish and rotting leaves indicate excessive watering. Suspend it for a while and put the pot in the sun;
  • the edges of the leaves turn red due to the cold. Perhaps the geranium stands close to the window, behind which the temperature is below zero. Move the plant pot;
  • there are few leaves, they fall, exposing the stem. The reason is the lack of light. Move the geranium to a sunny windowsill.

Per good care geranium pays with exquisite beauty

As you can see, caring for geraniums is not difficult, but it is necessary. For proper watering, feeding, pruning, a grateful plant will respond with lush flowering, which you can admire all year round.