Garden currants are an irreplaceable source of vitamins and valuable organic substances. To get a good harvest, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort, but the result is worth it. Features of growing red currants, important nuances care and possible problems- all necessary information is given in our article.

The key to a good harvest is the right place for planting. Red currants love well-lit places, without drafts or shadows. The soil is preferably sandy or loamy, with good aeration and a neutral or slightly acidic reaction.

Planting time also matters. It is advisable to plant most garden crops in early autumn or mid-spring. Currants are no exception, but experienced gardeners they notice that bushes planted in winter are distinguished by more stable immunity to diseases and in their development are much ahead of spring seedlings.

The distance between bushes should be at least two meters. Only under this condition will the plant be able to develop normally. When planting under trellises, it is allowed to reduce the distance between plants, maintaining a distance of one meter.

There should also be enough space between rows for maintenance and harvesting. It must be at least one and a half meters. If the plantings are located along a fence or building, it is necessary to leave at least a meter for normal growth of the bushes. Active watering in the first week after planting guarantees successful rooting of the seedling.

Caring for red currants in spring

Even before the first buds appear, it is important to carry out everything preparatory activities. To do this, the bush is inspected, frozen and damaged branches are removed.

A layer of mulch must be removed around the root zone, in which pests can overwinter. The new one is made from sawdust or straw, upper layer loosen the soil and water thoroughly. It should be noted that the roots of the plant are located quite close to the surface of the earth, so loosening is carried out carefully and shallowly.

After this, you can feed the plant, perform formative pruning and divide the bush. To eliminate the risk of young buds freezing, you can cover the bush with polyethylene or burlap during night frosts, and sprinkle the root area with sawdust.

Autumn care

After the plant goes into hibernation, which happens in late September - early October, you should definitely prepare the currants for wintering.

To do this, it is necessary to remove leaves, trim old and non-fruiting branches, and perform formative pruning of the bush. The last fertilizing is not carried out in the fall, but it is necessary to provide good watering before frost to protect root system from freezing.

Red currants are frost-resistant crops, but during a snowless winter the roots may be damaged. Good cover will be provided by a layer of mulch or sawdust sprinkled at the base. The top can be covered with thick film or tarpaulin.

This must be done before the first frost, but not in warm weather, which can cause the accumulation of excess moisture at the roots.

Bush pruning

To form a beautiful and fertile bush, sanitary and shaping pruning of shoots is mandatory. Currants do not like thickening, because this reduces the yield and size of the berries. Pruning is carried out only at rest (in early spring or mid-autumn) so as not to injure the plant.

The formation of a currant bush occurs as follows:

1. The annual growth is 2 – 3 young shoots. In total, an adult bush should have about 15 - 20 branches of different ages.
2. You should not leave old non-fruiting shoots (for red currants, the “venerable” age is 7–8 years).
3. All shoots growing inside the bush are removed. This prevents the thickening of the bush and a decrease in yield.
4. In summer, it is best to pinch the tops of the bush. This stimulates the active growth of replacement shoots.

The trellis method of growing red currants has proven to be excellent. To do this, the bushes are planted in a row with a stable fence. The tying of shoots is carried out using the grapevine method, and all shoots that do not grow in the direction of the trellis are subject to mandatory pruning.

Few people know, but red currants can be formed into a standard tree. To do this, in the first year of life, all basal shoots are cut off, leaving the central trunk.

For stability, it can be tied to a vertical support. In the future, it is necessary to trim all shoots at a distance of 30 - 50 centimeters from ground level. The tops are pinched to encourage the growth of lateral branches.

Any of the proposed options has pros and cons; each gardener decides for himself which method will be optimal for his site.

Feeding and watering

Regular watering will ensure a stable harvest of currants. To do this you need to use well water room temperature. For one bush - at least a bucket of water, the frequency of watering depends on the weather, but at least once every 10 - 12 days.

In hot weather, you can water the bushes every other day, only at the roots, so as not to knock off the color and ovaries. Mulching the root area will help retain moisture longer and also provide additional feeding.

Application mineral fertilizers carried out in three stages:

1. in spring nitrogen fertilizers are used (ready-made complexes or organic matter). This stimulates the growth of shoots and leaves. Dosage calculation: 50 grams of urea per 10 liters of water. If ammonium nitrate is used, the dosage is reduced to 30 g/10 l of water.
2. Before flowering Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are used to ensure better fruit set. For one adult currant bush, use 50 grams of potassium and 80 grams of superphosphate. You can use wood ash at the rate of one glass diluted in a bucket of water.
3. After the main crop has been harvested, it is necessary to feed the plant with diluted manure or chicken droppings. The infusion must be prepared in advance. To do this, dissolve 2 - 2.5 kg in a bucket of water cow dung or 1 kg of chicken manure. The resulting mixture is left in a warm place for fermentation. After a week, the fertilizer is ready, but in order not to burn the roots, it must be diluted at the rate of 0.5 liters per bucket of water.

During the season, you can use folk remedies for plant nutrition, as well as regularly update the mulch under the currant roots. It is not recommended to apply fertilizers in the fall, so as not to provoke the growth of shoots.

In addition, it is worth noting that the first fertilizing is carried out only in the second year after planting. Until this time, the plant will have enough minerals added during planting.

Main diseases and pests

Many insects are not averse to feasting on juicy leaves and vitamin-rich berries. The main pests of red currants are frequent uninvited guests at any garden plot, That's why experienced summer residents they know how to fight them.

Main diseases of red currant:

Anthracnose

A fungal disease that appears in unfavorable, too damp and cold weather. Outwardly it looks like small brown spots, which increase in size over time and cover most of the leaves.

To combat this disease, fungicides are used; preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate. These drugs are also suitable for treatment; it is only necessary to increase the frequency of treatment (every week instead of ten days).

Powdery mildew

A thin white “cobweb” appears, which gradually entangles the entire bush and fruits. Spraying with a 3% solution will save you from this misfortune. iron sulfate. The soil under the bush can also be treated using the special preparation “Nitrophen”.

Glass rust

Yellow-orange convex spots appear that quickly spread along the leaves and stem, affecting flowers and fruits. Effective methods treatments have not been developed, and for prevention, spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used.

Striped mosaic

Vein mosaic

In the direction of the veins on the leaf of the plant there are duplicated stripes of orange or Brown. When detected on early stages Removing affected leaves and spraying with fungicidal agents will help. Otherwise, it is necessary to uproot the entire bush and disinfect the planting site.

It is believed that red currants are less susceptible to diseases than their black variety. At the same time, with dense plantings, there are frequent cases of bush infection with white spot (septoria), terry disease (reversion) and bacteriosis.

When growing red currants, difficulties may arise not only for beginners in the gardening business. Often, bushes are affected by root rot or aphid attacks, even with high-quality care. To prevent the spread of infection and protect the plant from serious damage, it is necessary to promptly respond to the following alarming “symptoms”.

What problems may you encounter:

1. Damage to aphids. Characteristic signs are developmental delay, wilting and wrinkling of leaves. Red bumps form on the surface of the leaf. Aphid colonies are usually found with reverse side leaves.
2. Ognevka. This pest leaves characteristic traces of its presence - a thin web entangling shoots and fruits. You can also notice small caterpillars that destroy the green parts of the plant.
3. Yellow sawfly. It lays larvae that systematically eat leaves and young shoots of currants.
4. Spider mite. Shrinking and withering leaves, as well as sticky webs on the stems, are a characteristic sign of the presence of this pest.
5. Kidney mite. Transfers dangerous disease- blight, which is considered incurable - the entire bush is removed at once. Signs of damage are considered to be abnormalities in the development of the plant: the shape of the leaf changes, color and ovaries are absent.
6. Moth. A voracious caterpillar that completely eats leaves berry crops.
7. Zlatka. The larvae of this pest prefer to eat the juicy pulp of the shoots.

These pests can be combated with special preparations (Karbofos, Fury, Fufanon, Actellik, Aktara, Bankol, Confidor Tanrek, Confidant, Commander, Biotlin, etc.) and folk remedies(spraying with soap or garlic solution, sprinkling with ash). Affected leaves must be removed from the bush and burned. In case of severe damage, it is more advisable to uproot the entire plant rather than allow the remaining bushes to become infected.

A popular garden crop, red currant, is not distinguished by its capricious character, but requires careful attention. To have a good harvest, it is necessary to ensure active watering, regular pruning and feeding of the bushes. The basic details of caring for red currants are discussed in our information.

Planting red currants - choosing seedlings

​Similar articles​

• For better rooting, before planting, place the roots of colored currant seedlings for 2-3 hours in a solution with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Epin and other similar preparations).
• ​Versailles white.​

Ripens in the first ten days of July. Dutch variety. Productivity up to 5 kg per bush. The berries are dark red, weighing up to 0.7 g, taste good. The bush is tall and compact. Resistant to anthracnose.​

​Formation of red currant on a short trunk: a - red currant seedlings are planted in the fall, the branches are shortened by half to a bud facing outward. As they form, all growths on the trunk and root shoots are removed; b - at the end of autumn or spring of next year, the growths on the branches chosen as the main ones are shortened by half to the bud facing outwards. All other side branches are shortened to 5 cm. All basal shoots and growths on the trunk are also removed; c - in the summer of the second year (July), all unnecessary shoots are shortened to 10 cm, the guides are not touched; d - in the spring of the next (third) year, the conductors are shortened by half (to the outer bud), and those cut in the summer side shoots they are further shortened to 2-3 cm. At the same time, all dried, diseased, damaged branches are removed. In summer, at the beginning of ripening, unnecessary side branches are cut back to 10 cm.

​The bush method is the main method of forming red currants in domestic gardening, which does not require special supporting devices.​

Red currant - planting and comprehensive care

In the future, there is no need to hill up, un-hill, or shorten the red currants. Replacement shoots growing from the ground are shortened in the spring by a third of their length. After about five years, the bush should have about ten strong main branches of different ages. Excess replacement shoots are cut down to soil level, leaving no stumps.

​Beloved​

​Jonker Van Tete​

​Red currant berries contain from 5 to 12% sugars, up to 3.7% organic acids, pectin and tannins, vitamins C and P, carotene, mineral salts.​

High-quality bush care

A sunny place on the site is ideal for planting red currants. This plant loves moisture - it needs frequent watering for the development of the root system. It is best to plant bushes on black soil rich in humus. Clay soil is also suitable for growing this berry crop.​ ​Colored currants, characterized by an abundance of leaves and fruit-bearing wood, place increased demands on soil fertility. The high consumption of nutrients by the bush has to be compensated by the application of organic and mineral fertilizers, otherwise you should not count on a rich harvest. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied annually in the spring (80-100 g of urea per bush). It is advisable to do this in 2 steps - at the beginning of shoot growth and after flowering.​​Foreign variety. Ripens in mid-July. Productivity up to 3 kg per bush. The berries are creamy-white, weighing up to 0.6 g, with a dessert taste. The bush is medium-sized.

​Rachnovskaya.​

Fertilizing currants - care according to the calendar

​Further shaping of the crown at a given height involves removing branches that are too thick and shortening the side shoots to 1/3 of the length (20-30 cm). Weaker shoots are not shortened. For intensively growing shoots, shorter pruning and pinching (pinching) of newly growing branches are provided.

​Rejuvenating pruning of red currants: a - bush before pruning; b - after trimming

​Red currant plants are more vigorous and, growing, occupy quite a lot with age large area. Therefore, when planting, bushes should be placed at a distance of at least 1.5 m from each other.​

- frost-resistant, resistant to fungal diseases, productive. Bushes average size, semi-spreading. The berries are large, red, sweet and sour taste.​

- a variety of foreign selection. The bush is compact, vigorous, very productive. Long clusters of bright red berries are hidden by leaves, so birds hardly touch them. The variety is resistant to anthracnose.​

nasotke.ru

Proper planting of currants: some secrets

​Red currant juice quenches thirst well; berries and juice serve as an excellent way to improve appetite. Red currant juice activates intestinal activity. The juice has a diaphoretic effect and is prescribed for colds. The juice has a cleansing effect; it helps remove uric acid salts from the body.​

​In spring and autumn, do not forget about mulching the soil under the bush. Mulch will keep you warm in winter and prevent moisture from evaporating quickly in spring. Mulching will also simplify maintenance - there will be significantly fewer weeds around the bushes. Red currants need to be protected from drought. Water it thoroughly. The best way to check whether currants need watering or not is to dig with a shovel near the bush. If the bottom of the hole is dry, be sure to water the soil at the rate of two buckets of water per bush.

​Landscape design in the village​

​A couple of years after planting in the fall, organic fertilizers (10-15 kg), phosphorus (100-150 g) and potassium (50-60 g) are applied to the bush. In this composition they can be given once every 2-3 years. Fertilize the entire area under the crown, loosen it and water it.

​Yuterbogskaya.​

Ripens in the first ten days of July. Productivity up to 6 kg per bush. The berries are red, weighing up to 0.7 g, taste sweet and sour. Bush of medium vigor, medium spreading. Resistant to powdery mildew.​ ​An excellent rootstock for the standard form of red currant are golden currant seedlings. Own-rooted seedlings golden currants (grown from cuttings) are rarely used for this purpose.​

When planting, the shoots are cut short, leaving 3-4 well-developed buds on the surface. This pruning promotes the formation of strong lateral branches from the remaining buds and stimulates the formation of basal shoots from the buds on the buried part of the plant.​

​Red currants are traditionally placed along the borders of the plot or along the paths. But, given the attractiveness of red currants during the flowering and ripening period, they can be successfully planted in groups or together with ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers.​

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Red currant - planting and care - Fruit shrubs - growing features and care

​Variety​ ​Of the medium-ripening varieties, it’s good to have one of the varieties on your plot -​​In my own way chemical composition White currant berries are similar in biological effect to red currants. However, these berries contain significantly less vitamins, in particular ascorbic acid.​

If the crop has slowed down, then feed the roots before the beginning of June. To do this, take bird droppings or manure, dilute it with water in a ratio of one to ten, dig a hole around the bush and pour at least two buckets of this solution into it. Instead of organic liquid fertilizer, you can use dry mineral fertilizers.​

Planting currants in spring

​In addition to applying basic fertilizers, summer liquid fertilizers with mullein, bird droppings and other organic matter are useful for colored currants. The first time the bushes are fed immediately after flowering, the second time - 2-3 weeks before the berries begin to ripen (application doses and concentration are the same as for black currants, see page 11).​

Ripens in mid-July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. The berries are white, weighing up to 0.8 g, with a dessert taste. The bush is powerful, with strong branches.​

​Konstantinovskaya.​

Features of cultivation

For grafting, a strong vertical shoot is selected, the rest is cut out. Winter or spring grafting of red currant onto annual seedlings of golden currant is carried out using improved copulation methods, in the butt or “in a side cut”. The grafting is stratified and early in the spring, before buds bloom on the scion, the grafted plants are planted in open ground, and cover with loose soil. In the spring of next year, 3-4 well-placed strong basal shoots are left. Weak and excess ones are cut out at soil level. In varieties with weak shoot-forming ability, zero shoots are shortened by 1/3-1/4 of the length.​

​Planting is best done in early autumn, in late September - early October.​​Red Andreichenko​

Variety selection

​Versailles white​​This berry grows well and bears fruit everywhere, and for the North-West it is one of the main berry crops. An unpretentious shrub in general, with good winter hardiness and very high yields, so you don’t need to plant a lot of bushes, especially on small area. A little is how much? ​Prepare red currants very carefully for winter. Care involves tying the branches of the bush so that they do not break due to snow. To prevent currants from freezing in winter, we recommend wrapping them in several layers of film or agrofibre. To protect the roots for the winter, you should cover the bush with soil in the fall and sprinkle it with peat and compost.​

​We recommend that you read​​Colored currants are very sensitive to chlorine, so chlorine-containing fertilizers cannot be applied to them. And as a potash fertilizer It is good to use wood ash (100-150 g per bush). In addition, in addition to potassium, it contains phosphorus and calcium, and trace elements.​

​Smolyaninovskaya.​ Ripens in the first half of July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. The berries are red, weighing up to 0.7 g, with a sweet and sour taste. The bush is medium-sized, medium-spreading. The variety has increased resistance to unfavorable climatic conditions and is rarely affected by pests and diseases.​

​In the first years, about 5 of the strongest, healthiest, evenly spaced branches of red currant are left; shorten by 1/3 -1/2 of the length, to the bud facing outward. Subsequently, every spring the crown is thinned out, leaving 4-5-year-old branches; older ones are deleted. The diameter of the crown of a standard bush reaches an average of 1.8 m. In subsequent years, the bush continues to be formed in the same way until 3-4 branches of each age are formed. Red currants have the most productive 3-5 year old branches. At 6-8 years of age, they begin to rejuvenate pruning of the bush. In varieties with weak shoot-regenerating ability, old branches are cut out to a strong lateral branch (most often this is a top shoot). In varieties with good shoot regeneration ability, the old branches are cut out completely. Every year it is necessary to remove 2-3 old branches.​

​When preparing the soil, local soil cultivation is carried out in planting pits. The size of the latter is 60 x 60 cm or more, depending on soil fertility. The top fertile layer of soil is mixed with fertilizers (10-12 kg of humus or compost, 200 g of superphosphate and 200-300 g wood ash). The seedlings are planted deep; after planting, the soil around the young plants is compacted, watered and mulched. The above-ground part of the seedling is shortened by 3-4 buds. It has semi-spreading bushes of medium height, high yield, frost resistance and resistance to fungal diseases. Large berries with a sweet and sour taste, red color.​ ​or​​For a family of 3-4 people, one bush is enough, since with good care, an adult red currant bush can produce up to 10-12 kg of berries annually. You just need to choose the right variety and place for planting. Gardeners prefer black currants. They usually refer to the fact that red currants have too sour berries. This is only true for ancient varieties, such as Dutch Red. But in the last decade, many new sweet-fruited varieties have been created, the berries of which contain no less sugar than black currants. It should be remembered that red currants are healthier than black currants, especially for, say, “aged” people. It is preferable to plant all berry bushes in late summer - early autumn, and currants are no exception. Planting it is also optimal during this period. If for some reason planting material currants were purchased at a later period, then planting will depend on weather conditions. If, according to weather forecasts, early frosts are expected, then it would be more correct to bury the planting material in a horizontal position until spring and plant it in the spring. If the autumn is warm, then you can plant currants in the first ten days of October.​

​Red currants are planted as seedlings. When purchasing, we recommend paying attention to their roots. It is desirable that they be in a stiff state. Pay attention to the length of the roots, it should be within twenty centimeters. The above-ground part of the cut branch of a seedling is, as a rule, ten to fifteen centimeters long. It is advisable to have a couple of such branches, each of them should have at least two buds. To prevent the bush from thickening and the berries to grow large, formative pruning is carried out within 5-6 years after planting. Of the basal shoots, 3-4 of the strongest are left annually, the rest are cut out. In this case, there should be a distance of 10-12 cm between the remaining shoots, otherwise the bush will thicken.

Ripens at the end of July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. The berries are white, weighing up to 1 g, sweetish-sour. The bush is powerful, medium spreading. Resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose.​ ​Gazelle.​

​During the growing season, it is necessary to cut out all growths on the trunk and renewal shoots of golden currants. This operation, unfortunately, has to be performed annually and more than once, since golden currants produce shoots, and renewal shoots are formed in quite a large number. Yoshta, a hybrid of currants and gooseberries, as a standard-former, is devoid of this drawback. Techniques for pruning red currants (according to R.P. Kudryavets): 1 - cutting out whole branches into a ring - (a) incorrectly, (b) correctly; 2 - pruning branches “for translation” (for a strong lateral branch) - (a) incorrect, (b) correct​

Although red currants do not place high demands on soil fertility, they are very responsive to fertilization. After all, its yields are 1.5-2 times higher than those of black currants.​ ​From late varieties can only be called

​Versailles pink​ ​What do redcurrants like?​ The currant root system continues to grow until late autumn. In this case, after planting, the soil under the currants must be mulched. Mulch can be tops from tomatoes, zucchini, weeded weeds, etc. If planting currants is postponed until spring, the planting hole needs to be prepared in the fall.​

​If you see green or black bark, it is better to move on past the offer. Planting red currants with such branches is fraught with problems - green bark indicates unripe shoots, and black spots indicate diseases that will manifest themselves in the spring. Sanitary pruning is done annually, removing diseased, weak and damaged branches. A colored currant bush formed in this way by the age of 6 has 15-20 branches of different ages. The same standards apply for red and white currant seedlings as for black currants. Only the root system of colored currants is usually weaker, and the roots themselves are less fibrous, and therefore drying out is very dangerous for them. This must be kept in mind when purchasing and storing seedlings before planting.​

​Ripes in the 2nd-3rd decade of July. Productivity up to 6 kg per bush. The berries are red, weighing up to 1 g, with a sweet and sour, almost dessert taste. The bush is slightly spreading. It is almost not affected by pests and diseases. To give a tall bole more rigidity, it is necessary to tie it to a support peg. Not only the trunk is tied to the support, but also one of the powerful branches, preferably in the center of the crown. An even more reliable method is to install three support posts connected at the top by strips in the form of a triangle. It is enough to tie the standard to one of these posts, then it will not break under the weight of snow and strong winds. Planting scheme standard plants 2.4 x 0.75 m; 1.5 x 1 m. In order to restore the productivity of the old bush, cut off all aboveground part to the soil level, leaving no stumps. Of the resulting shoots, the strongest are left and the bush is formed as described above. Red currants feel best on loose, fertile, light soils with a neutral reaction of the soil solution (pH 6-6.5). But it is less demanding than black currant when it comes to applying organic fertilizers, but is very sensitive to chlorine. Therefore, potassium fertilizer in the form of potassium chloride should not be applied to red currants. Preference should be given to potassium sulfate or stove ash. Liming the soil must also be approached with caution - on over-limed soils, plants suffer from chlorosis. Dutch red - with berries of excellent taste, which they, unfortunately, lose when overripe. Both varieties are quite productive, but not too frost-resistant. The bushes are spreading, the branches are brittle. Sunny location, slightly acidic loams with a pH of 5-5.5, increased doses of potassium. Since it has a fairly deep root system (sucking roots penetrate to a depth of 40 cm), then planting pits should be made at least 60 cm deep. Before planting, the hole should be well filled with organic matter and mineral water, since the bush can grow in one place for up to 25 years. Of course, pre-planting refueling will not be enough for this long period; the bushes will have to be fed annually. Agronorm (N+P+K) y red currant 31 g per square meter per season, and the balance (N: P: K) is 39: 13: 48. It follows that it belongs to potassium lovers (plants belong to this group if they have a K balance of at least 45).​

Landing

​Before planting, the material must be soaked in water (placed in water) for about three hours so that the root system is saturated with moisture. Currants are planted obliquely. This applies to both a bush with several stems and a thin twig. When planting currants, be sure to deepen them to the lower three buds. The above-ground part should also be three buds, the rest should be cut off using a well-sharpened pruner.​

​The most best time to start planting red currants - early September. We advise you to carry out all shrub planting activities before the twentieth of this month. First you need to dig a hole with a diameter of fifty centimeters and a depth of forty-five centimeters. Don't forget, red currant is a bush and it grows well. Therefore, keep a distance of two meters between currants and other plants.​

When pruning an adult fruit-bearing bush, the old 6-8-year-old branches that bear fruit are cut out at the very base. To replace them, leave 2-3 strong root shoots. It should be borne in mind that colored currants annually grow a whole brush of weak, low basal shoots, which must be carefully cut out, clearing the base of the bush. In order not to be left without berries, you should not shorten the ends of annual shoots on skeletal branches. The fact is that in colored currants their growth ends early, and well-ripened buds of the upper part can produce a lot of berries next year.

It is often difficult for a gardener to distinguish black currants from colored ones. Let's suggest some of it characteristic features. In young plants, the bark on the shoots is grayish, rough, with tightly pressed buds, while in black currants it is yellowish, the buds are more behind the branches. There are no aromatic glands on the leaves and shoots of colored currants, so if you lightly rub them, there will be no specific currant smell. But it is almost impossible to distinguish red currants from white ones; here you will have to rely on the integrity of the seller.​

​Natalie.​

​When growing red currants on a trunk, you must keep in mind that the life expectancy of such plants is shorter than that of bush forms. In addition, we must also take into account that the grafted varieties in our conditions must be quite winter-hardy.​

​Throughout the entire life of the plant, diseased, damaged, thickening and creeping shoots along the ground are removed every year.​

​If the planting holes were well filled with fertilizers before planting, the plants will have sufficient nutrition for the first two to three years. Autumn application of mulching materials such as manure, peat, humus, compost replenishes nutrients and improves soil structure. Red currants are responsive to mulching. The soil is covered with mulch after spring loosening with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Care, fertilizer

​Red Cross​

​What doesn't redcurrant like? ​

​Pruning the above-ground part is necessary so that the currant bush does not age prematurely. In the spring, the leaves will begin to open, and the root system, damaged during transplantation, may not be able to cope with the nutrition of the above-ground part if pruning was not done in the fall. When the aerial part is unpruned, all the nutritious juices rush to the apical bud, and fruitlets (overgrowing branches) do not form on the branch, therefore, the branch is bare, the leaves on it will only be at the top. Without pruning the aboveground part when planting, the bush will begin to age in the first year.​

​Add fertilizer to the dug hole: twenty-five grams of compost, 500 grams of superphosphate, also add potassium salt, approximately one hundred grams. Sprinkle the top two-thirds of the depth with fertile soil. Before planting seedlings, craftsmen recommend placing the roots in water for two to three hours so that they are well saturated with moisture.​

In this regard, special care should be taken when pruning frostbitten branches. In early spring it is difficult to determine how much the bush suffered from frost. Therefore, it is better to postpone pruning to the beginning of summer. At this time, the regrowth zone is already clearly visible, which will make it easier to cut off the frozen parts of the branches to places where the wood is not damaged.​

​As we have already noted, colored currants require good lighting. With a lack of light, it gets sick, develops poorly, yields much less than possible, and the quality of the berries is low. Therefore, bushes are planted in sunny places, protected from cold northern and eastern winds.​

​Ripes in the 2nd-3rd decade of July. Productivity up to 4 kg per bush. The berries are red, weighing up to 0.7 g, with a good sweet and sour taste. The bush is wide, medium spreading, dense. Anthracnose and powdery mildew is rarely affected.

​Due to the straight growth and strength of the branches and the durability of the fruit formations, the varieties Jonker-van-tets, Pervenets, and Dutch Red are well suited for growing on a trunk.​

​Red currants can be grown not only as a bush. Its crown is easily displayed in the shape of a pyramid, spindle, or vase. Very decorative forms are in the form of cordons, the simplest palmettes of fan or trellis types.​

​If the soil is regularly mulched, you can limit yourself to mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They are usually brought in for autumn digging; If the application of these fertilizers is postponed until spring, then, due to poor mobility in the soil, they will reach the roots and begin to be absorbed only in the second half of summer. On the contrary, nitrogen fertilizers are easily washed away by melt and rainwater, and are usually applied in the spring and first half of summer in the form of fertilizing.

​Varshevich​

Trimming and shaping

- a variety of foreign selection, frost-resistant, productive, but quite strongly affected by anthracnose. Its flowers are dark red, its berries are light red, and have a good dessert taste. Medium-sized bushes, spreading, brittle branches.

​Grow in shade or partial shade, on too acidic and dense soils, close standing groundwater, therefore, if their depth is 50-60 cm, red currants are planted on small hills. The distance between bushes, if you are planting more than one bush, should be at least 1.5-2 m, since they are quite large. Red currants go well with gooseberries, despite the fact that they have common pests, and does not like the proximity of black currants. She is quite tolerant of all other plants in the garden, primarily because her root system occupies an intermediate position in terms of the depth of the sucking roots - between trees whose root depth is lower and those plants whose root system is superficial. Therefore, in front of the red currant bushes on the south side, you can place strawberries, vegetables and herbs with a shallow root system, bulbous annual and perennial flowers.​

​Slanted planting of currants is necessary in order for new shoots to quickly form from those buds that were buried. If you plant a currant bush vertically, then new shoots can be expected for a long time, and the harvest on the planted bush will be small.​

​When all these steps have been completed, you can begin placing the seedling in the hole. Currants will be very grateful if you place them at an angle of forty-five degrees. This improves the shape of the bush in the future and promotes the growth of the root system.​

​Old but still fruit-bearing branches can be rejuvenated. To do this, they are pruned with strong lateral branching. At the same time, sanitary pruning is carried out.

​Colored currants can be planted along the boundaries of the site along a low fence, retreating from it by 1-1.5 m, or along paths. This will be especially convenient if you later form the bushes in the form of a flat trellis. The distance between bushes depends on their size in adulthood. Plants with compact, upright crowns can be planted every 1.25 m, and large, spreading bushes - after 1.5. Otherwise the placement is similar to blackcurrant.​

​Valentinovka.​

​Red and white currant very flexible plants, they can be formed not only on a trunk, but also in the form of a cordon and a fan. The cordon is formed on a wire trellis; for a fan shape you need a wall or fence.​

Other Formation Methods

​However, red currants in standard culture are the most decorative. The standard crown is not only different unusual appearance and attractiveness, but also affects early fruiting, yield and quality of berries. Usually the bush is formed on a short or high trunk.

​In early spring, red currant bushes are fed with urea (20-25 g per bush), during flowering - with mullein solution (1:8-10) or bird droppings(1:15-20). Also effective during this period foliar feeding solutions of microelements. Spraying red currants with a solution boric acid, potassium permanganate, zinc sulfate, ammonium molybdic acid (1.5-2 g per bucket of water) increases the set and size of berries, which allows you to increase the yield by 20-30%.​

​Variety Fairy​

​Old variety​

​If black currants are planted correctly, obliquely, on each stem on next year two new branches are formed. To achieve greater branching of young branches, they need to be removed

It is better to straighten the roots of the seedling when planting it. Sprinkle the roots carefully so as not to damage them with too heavy lumps. Once all the soil is back in the hole, tamp it down and water well. The surface of the ground should be covered with a layer of peat - this mulch perfectly protects the soil from drying out. In dry weather, we recommend watering and additional mulching a few days after planting.​

​As for the pruning technique, it is the same as for black currants. They do it at the same time, that is, in the spring before the buds open and in the fall before frost.

The place for planting colored currants is prepared in the same way as for black currants: they are leveled and the same amount of fertilizer is applied. They just dig deeper (30-40 cm), taking into account the more powerful development of the root system. When digging, the lower, uncultivated layer of soil is not turned up.

Ripens in late July - early August. Productivity up to 7 kg per bush. The berries are red, weighing up to 1 g, with a sweet and sour refreshing taste. The bush is slightly spreading. Resistant to pests and diseases.​

Immediately after planting the red currant plant, it is necessary to shorten the central conductor by half, tie it to a vertical support, and cut the side branches to 2-3 cm to stimulate the formation of fruit branches.

​In Europe, red currants are most often grown as a bush on a short stem (20-25 cm) with eight skeletal branches and an open center. The standard is formed during the first pruning. For annuals planted in September-October biennial plants The branches are shortened by half, cutting them to a bud facing outward. This pruning strengthens the branches, ensures that shoots continue to grow in the desired direction and stimulates branching. Remove all growths on the trunk, as well as root shoots as they form.

​After harvesting, the plants can be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (40 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate or 100 g of ash per 10 liters of water). These macroelements are necessary for the formation of fruit buds. During this period, mineral fertilizers can be replaced with liquid organic fertilizers (2 buckets per bush).​

​Rondom​

​fertile foreign selection has spreading bushes of medium size. In some years the variety is affected by anthracnose. The branches are brittle. The yield is good, the berries are large and have a rather sour taste.​

​Dutch red​

​Apical buds. In this case, the two buds closest to the pinching site will sprout. That is, in the fall you need to shorten the side branches that have grown over the summer, leaving three buds on each. In this way, a currant bush is formed with many branches on each shoot.​

While the currant bush is young (no older than three years), it needs constant fertilization. It is during this period that the root system and strong fertile shoots are formed. Fertilizers with a good potassium content are most suitable. But it is better to reduce the amount of phosphate-based fertilizers, since red currant bushes need it less than other plants in your garden.

Cordon (planting pattern 2.3 x 0.5 m)

​Colored currants are most often propagated by horizontal layering. To do this, early in the spring the soil under the bush is well loosened. To make it more breathable, you can add humus, compost, non-acidic peat.​

​Colored currants do not tolerate well increased acidity soil. To reduce it, before digging, ground limestone (300-400 g/m2) or slaked lime (250-300 g/m2) are evenly scattered.

​Dutch red.​

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Red and white currants. Planting, care.

The best varieties of currants ​In summer, the central conductor is constantly tied to the support, but not cut. The side shoots are shortened by 3-5 leaves (10 cm). Such shortening of shoots cannot be carried out earlier than in early July, since in this case the formation of shoots of the second order of branching is enhanced. ​Next autumn, a year after planting, it is necessary to shorten by half those annual growths that will become the main skeletal branches (up to 8 branches). They are also pruned with a bud facing outwards. The remaining side shoots are cut short, leaving 5 cm in length, to stimulate the formation of fruit branches. All dead, diseased and damaged branches are removed.​ ​Red currant is a more durable plant than black currant. To ensure that plantings do not lose productivity for a long time, starting from the fifth year, it is necessary to apply organic fertilizers at least once every 2-3 years, 10-20 kg per bush.​ ​. Of them greatest interest represents the last of the three varieties. A variety of foreign selection, high-yielding, frost-resistant, quite resistant to anthracnose. Rondome has a low, compact bush. The berries are large, red, with a pleasant sweet and sour taste.​ ​Generous​ ​I do not recommend planting it, despite the fact that it is resistant to diseases and pests and produces a bountiful harvest. It has small and very sour berries. From early varieties The Chulkovskaya variety of folk selection is quite common and is not of great value.​ ​If there is a need to propagate currants, then in the spring you can pin the lower branches to the soil. But the top of the branch must be brought to the surface. To speed up root formation, you can make scratches on the bark of the branch and water it with a solution of a root former (for example, heteroauxin or root). Sprinkle moistened soil on top. You can cover the pinning area with film. After a certain time, young shoots will appear from the buds located in the soil. Throughout the season, you need to monitor the soil moisture in the place where the young shoots grow. In the spring of next year, the young shoots will need to be divided and planted on permanent place.​ ​We advise you to support the currant branches. This will not give big harvest bend the branches towards the ground. Some craftsmen stick pins into the sides of the bush to its height and tie it with rope or wire. This makes the bush grow upward and not sag. The main thing when using this method is to ensure that the branches do not overlap each other and do not intertwine.​ ​Then, strong 1-2 year old branches are selected and grooves are dug under them (radially to the base of the bush). Their length is equal to the branches being bent, and their depth is 8-10 cm. Shoots are placed in these grooves, covered with soil, and pinned with wooden or wire hooks to hold them in a horizontal position. When the emerging vertical shoots grow to 12 cm, they are covered with loose and moist soil (it should be in the same condition throughout the summer). ​Colored currants are planted in the same way as black currants. You just need to be more careful about the landing time. Since colored currants take root worse than black ones, best time planting work- early autumn (from about the beginning of September). Then the plants will have a longer period for rooting and good survival. Spring planting is extremely unfavorable and should be resorted to in exceptional cases.​ ​Foreign winter-hardy variety. Ripens at the end of July. Productivity 4-6 kg per bush. The berries are red, weighing up to 0.7 g, with a sweet and sour taste. The bush is compact. Anthracnose and powdery mildew are rarely affected.​ ​Formation of a red currant cordon (according to K. Brickell). 1 - First year: a) Spring. To form a central conductor, shorten the growth of the upper branch to 15 cm and tie it to a vertical support. The remaining branches are cut short (up to 2-3 cm); b) July. The central conductor is tied to the support without cutting. All side shoots are shortened to 10 cm (by 3-5 buds). 2 - Second year: a) Spring. Shorten last year's growth of the central conductor to 15 cm; all lateral growths - up to 2-3 cm; b) July. The central conductor is tied to the support without shortening it. All lateral growths are trimmed to 10 cm. Next, the pruning techniques of the second year are repeated for a number of years until the central conductor of the cordon reaches 1.5-1.8 m. 3 - Formation of an adult cordon: a) Spring. Last year's growth of the central conductor is trimmed to the first bud, and all lateral branches - to 2-3 cm; b) July. The growth of the central conductor and all lateral branches is shortened to 10 cm. In July, when the berries begin to color and the growth is formed current year, unnecessary side shoots are shortened to 10 cm to ensure light access to the berries; in this case, the main conductors are not touched. On light sandy soils, organic fertilizer must be applied more often, preferably annually, and it is better to do this not in the fall, but in the spring. The fact is that in sandy soils, organic fertilizers mineralize faster, and easily soluble mineral fertilizers are washed out into deep layers even before the growing season and become inaccessible to plants. Due to the low moisture capacity of sandy soils, high doses of mineral fertilizers cannot be applied to currants, since during drought the concentration of the soil solution greatly increases, which can cause growth retardation and even plant death. The application of organic fertilizers increases the cohesion of sandy soils and thereby improves their moisture holding capacity and limits the leaching of soluble fertilizers. Like all shrubs, red currants are planted in early autumn, throughout September. The holes are dug 50 x 50 cm in size and, as already mentioned, 60 cm deep. Wood chips, chopped branches, and raspberry stems can be placed at the bottom. Layer everything with earth taken out of the hole, adding chalk or dolomite (half a liter jar) to the planting hole, Zet. spoons of azofoska and additionally add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium fertilizer that does not contain chlorine. Instead of chalk and dolomite, you can use ash ( liter jar to the pit).​ - the variety was bred at the Pavlovsk experimental station near St. Petersburg. The harvest ripens in the mid-early period. The bushes are of medium size, moderately spreading. The berries are light red, medium in size, and have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is high-yielding. In some years it can be severely affected by anthracnose.​ ​Variety Early Sweet​ ​Proper planting of currants is the key to excellent harvests in the future.​​Excessively dense shoots are an excellent environment for the development of fungal diseases.​ In autumn - in the second half of September - bent branches are cut off and divided into bushes. Well-developed cuttings are immediately planted in a permanent place, and weaker ones are grown for another year. In order to create optimal conditions for the functioning of the root system, good growth and fruiting of colored currants, the soil is loosened 3-4 times per season. But not deep, so as not to damage the roots: under the crown of the bush to a depth of 6-8 cm, behind the crown - 10-15. It is best to loosen the soil after rain or watering.​ ​Dutch pink.​ There are not many varieties of red and, especially, white currants in the State Register. But for planting in the garden it is quite enough. We will introduce you to the best varieties that differ large berries good taste, disease resistance, self-fertility, high yield and winter hardiness.​ ​In the spring, you need to shorten the conductors by half again on the bud facing outward. And the side shoots, shortened to 10 cm in summer, are cut short again, leaving only 2-3 cm in length. When growing red currants on light soils, especially in drought, it is better to apply mineral fertilizers in the form of a solution. Liquid fertilizers and slurry are absorbed faster. It is best to apply liquid fertilizer into the ring grooves around the plants. If the soil is dry, then after fertilizing the currants are watered (2-3 buckets per bush), the grooves are covered with earth, the soil is loosened and mulched. The width of the fertilized strip should correspond to the width of the crown. The solution should saturate the entire zone of horizontal roots and penetrate to a depth of at least 40 cm. Less fertilizer is applied near the center. As the currant grows, the area of ​​the stripes increases.​ ​When the hole is filled to three-quarters of the height, the soil in it is compacted, well-rotted compost is added, compacted, watered, a mound is made in the center of the hole and the roots of the seedling are spread on it. Before planting, as always, the seedling must be placed in water for two hours so that it is well saturated with water. It’s a good idea to add “Kornevin” to the water to quickly form new roots. If there are dry or broken roots, then, naturally, they should be removed before planting.​ ​Yuterbogskaya​ Purchase of currant seedlings ​is of interest because great content sugar in berries and their early ripening. The berries in the cluster are equal in size, the bush is spreading, quite tall, the variety is productive. The first mention of red currants in sources dates back to the Middle Ages. In Russia Where to plant red or white currants in the garden ​ Experienced gardeners advise constantly monitoring the health of the bushes and promptly pruning damaged shoots and branches, leaves and picking mercilessly damaged berries.​ ​Colored currants can also be propagated from lignified cuttings. Just keep in mind that they take root much worse than black ones. Cuttings of some foreign varieties take root especially poorly. Annual shoots are cut in early autumn (late August - early September), when they ripen well and the buds develop normally. Cut into pieces 18-20 cm long with 5-6 buds. Unlike black currants, the top of the shoot is also used for cuttings. To enhance survival rate, before planting, it is advisable to dust the lower part of the cuttings with a root formation stimulator (epin, kornevin). Preparing a planting site for currants ​In the fall, dig up the soil without breaking up any lumps. This is done in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. Clods of earth are broken up and leveled with a rake. Spring loosening of the soil helps conserve moisture.​ ​Promising Dutch variety. Ripens in mid-July. Self-fertility and yield are low (2-3 kg per bush). Winter hardiness is weak. The berries are light red or pink, weighing 0.6-0.8 g, superior in taste to all varieties of red and white currants. The bush is medium-sized, compact, sparse. Resistant to pests and diseases.​ Planting colored currants ​Early sweet.​ Soil care for colored currant bushes ​The result should be a compact, well-lit crown with big amount overgrowing branches.​ ​Red currant responds positively to timely watering in the dry season, especially during the period of formation and filling of ovaries and after harvesting.​ Watering cauliflower bushes The bush must be planted obliquely, so that the three lower buds on each stem are buried in the soil, and only three buds are also left above the ground. Above the top of them, a straight cut is made on each stem. Then the plantings are covered with the soil that remains after digging the hole. If this soil is too dense, then it is diluted with sand. After this, the seedling is watered so that the soil adheres well to the roots, but in no case is it trampled down. If the roots are exposed after watering, then add additional soil, but do not water again. - a foreign variety, has low spreading bushes. The berries are very light in color, sweet and sour, tasty, and can hang on the bushes until frost. The variety is high-yielding (up to 13 kg per bush), frost-resistant, resistant to anthracnose.​ ​Firstborn​ What fertilizers and additional nutrition are needed for red and white currants? ​red currant​ ​Form currant bushes from the moment of planting - all branches are cut off, leaving only three to five buds. Get rid of five-year-old branches in a timely manner. They will no longer bear fruit, but they will continue to take away strength. Leave young powerful branches. It is also better to get rid of excess annual shoots. It is better to prune and shape red currant bushes in early spring or late autumn. The bush is formed with a wide base. This will give uniform fruiting. If a five-year-old bush can have from fifteen to twenty powerful branches of different ages, then it is formed correctly.​ ​Plant immediately after processing; planting techniques and care are the same as for blackcurrant cuttings. The only difference is that for good rooting of colored currant cuttings, the soil must be kept moist, especially in the first time after planting in the fall and early spring of next year.​ ​Although colored currants tolerate a lack of moisture much more easily than black currants, they respond well to watering in early summer, during the growth of shoots and filling of berries, as well as in the fall, after harvesting.​ Formation of bushes ​White fairy (Diamond).​ Ripens in late June - early July. Productivity up to 6 kg per bush. The berries are red, weighing up to 0.7 g, with a dessert taste. The bush is medium-sized, slightly spreading. Bush pruning To obtain a tall trunk (80-120 cm), the shrub is formed into one trunk and the side shoots are allowed to develop until the trunk thickens enough, after which all the side shoots along the length of the trunk are cut into a ring. The berries of early varieties are very attractive to birds. To protect the crop, you can use various repellents.​ ​One tablespoon of AVA can be added to planting holes instead of all other mineral fertilizers and not done for three years mineral supplements. In this case, of course, a deoxidizer must be added (it is best to use dolomite or chalk). The root system grows for the first two to three years, and only then does the rapid growth of the above-ground part of the bush begin. The exception is the Jonker Van Tets variety, which grows quickly, like blackcurrants. In the year of planting, in the fall, the bush is no longer pruned and is lightly hilled to a height of 10-12 cm. In the spring, the bush must be unplanted and all branches that have grown over the past summer must be shortened by one quarter of their length. ​Good variety​ How to propagate by horizontal layering ​(Finnish variety Erstling aus Firlanden) has tall compact bushes, the berries are large, sweet and sour, ripen early and can hang on the bush until September without losing their taste. The variety is high-yielding (up to 12 kg per bush), resistant to anthracnose, and frost-resistant.​ Cultivated everywhere. ​Red currants should be fed with nitrogen fertilizers in the spring. In the fall, feeding the bushes is carried out with a mixture of one hundred grams of superphosphate and forty grams of potassium chloride. Loosen the soil under the red currant bush twice a year. Make sure that no weeds grow and always remove them. They draw out the moisture necessary for currants.​ How to propagate from woody cuttings Dividing the bush is the easiest way to propagate colored currants. They resort to it when uprooting old bushes or moving plants to a new place. All old branches of a bush dug up in the fall are cut out, the roots are freed from the soil, and very thick ones are removed. Then the bush is carefully divided into 3-5 parts. It is better to do this with pruning shears, or at least with a sharp ax. Young branches are shortened, leaving short shoots with several buds. The bushes prepared in this way are immediately planted in a permanent place. Cooking redcurrant jelly

Nowadays, in addition to local varieties, stores also sell exotic berries and fruits of amazing shape and taste. But it's fun. Summer residents know that the results of their own labor are preferable in terms of taste, benefits and beauty. The most common and rewarding crop in the area is currants. That's why gardeners are looking for new varieties, planting bushes, pruning shoots, forming the crown so that it is pleasant to look at and convenient to pick berries. After all, the process of caring for and monitoring the development of plants is no less important and interesting than harvesting fruits.

Do I need to prune red currants?

Overgrown currant bushes can be found in abandoned areas. And if in early spring they delight with clusters of elegant flowers, in summer there are only rare small berries on the branches, and the bushes themselves most often look sick and pitiful. Currant plantings need care, as they love lighting and fertilizing, as well as access to air, so that pests and diseases do not develop in shaded and dense thickets. Pruning regulates growth and shapes the crown, and also heals and rejuvenates the bushes. Indeed, with a decrease in the total number of shoots, the plant gives off strength specifically, while the brush develops into favorable conditions, and the berries are formed exceptional in taste and size.

Well-groomed red currant bushes produce an excellent harvest

Which red currant branches need to be pruned?

Before we start pruning, let's figure out which branches the bush needs and which ones interfere with growth and fruiting. The lightest shoots extending from the roots are zero, otherwise they are called renewal shoots or first-order shoots. In the first year they are straight and do not branch. By the second year of life, lateral branches appear on them - shoots of the second year, etc. The shoots grow especially rapidly in the first three years, then their growth slows down and fruiting decreases. To constantly stimulate the growth of new shoots, shoots of the second and subsequent orders are pruned.

Before you start pruning the red currant bush, determine which shoots need to be removed

However, you should not get too carried away with pruning, otherwise top shoots may form - vertically located branches that appear on the perennial wood of old skeletal branches. They are characterized by intensive growth and weak branching. If there are not enough zero shoots to rejuvenate the bush, you can cut off the old branches not completely, but only to the top shoot, which is then shortened to a suitable outer bud to stimulate branching.

Berries do not grow on top shoots, and the bush takes a lot of effort to develop them

Fruit buds on red currants are formed mainly at the tip of the shoots. Therefore, when pruning, there is no need to shorten all branches: fewer fruit buds are formed on older branches, so shoots older than 4–5 years are cut out.

When pruning red currants, remove the upper parts of the shoots to preserve the fruit buds

Pruning red currants in autumn

The best time for pruning is autumn, when the harvest is harvested, sap flow in the plants is slow, but frost has not yet struck. Sometimes pruning of old branches is carried out during harvesting, cutting off four- and five-year-old shoots along with tassels into rings (thickening at the base of the branch), and cutting should be done as close to the base of the shoot as possible. Then they calmly pick the berries.

Video: autumn pruning of red currants

Pruning red currants in spring

If for some reason it was not possible to prune in the fall, you can do it in the spring before the sap begins to flow. The period of possible spring pruning is very short: from the end of frost until the leaves bloom.

Video: spring processing and pruning of red currant bushes

Types of pruning red currants

Before pruning begins, you need to decide why it is being done. There are anti-aging, shaping and sanitary pruning.

Anti-aging pruning

During rejuvenation, the most callous and unproductive branches are removed. The shoots are cut into rings; it is advisable to hold the pruning shears perpendicular to the shoot, and make the cut at soil level.

When performing anti-aging pruning, the procedure is as follows:

Video: anti-aging pruning of red currants

Formative pruning

When formative pruning, they try to give the currant bush a certain shape and then maintain it. Depending on how often the plants are planted, more or fewer shoots are left on each bush. With more frequent planting, the bushes are pruned more intensively, keeping fewer branches. The main thing is that the bush consists of shoots of different ages. This will ensure constant fruiting and further recovery for the currants.

Formative pruning of red currants not only allows you to give the bush the desired shape, but also improves fruiting

In our gardens, the most common form of growing red currants is bush. The standard form of currants (the standard is part of the shoot from the surface of the soil to the level of the branches) is more common in European gardens, but we are also making attempts to grow currants this way. The bushes look elegant during flowering and are very attractive when hung with ripe scarlet tassels.

With the standard form of pruning red currants, due to the high arrangement of the branches, the berries do not get dirty with soil

Stages of standard pruning of red currants:

1. After planting, only the central shoot is left, shortening it by half to the outer bud (located on the outside of the branch).
2. A year later or in the fall, when planting, if two-year-old seedlings were taken, the buds are removed along the entire height of the trunk, leaving only four multidirectional shoots to indicate the future skeleton of the bush. They are cut by 50% of the length to the outer bud to improve branching.
3. In the third year, all root shoots, that is, zero shoots, and growths on the trunk are cut out. Choose strong shoots of the second order, shorten them by half to the outer bud. The length of the conductors is maintained.
4. Subsequently, weak and broken branches are removed in early spring. In the summer, when the berries begin to set, unproductive side branches are shortened by 10 cm, improving the nutrition of the remaining shoots and making harvesting easier.

It will take at least three years to grow red currants on a trunk.

Formation like a cordon and on a high trellis is also used. Cordon-type formation is used to increase productivity, since the bush does not have to spend a lot of effort on extra branches and leaves, and to save space in the garden.

When forming a cordon of currants, proceed as follows:

1. Immediately after planting, the central conductor is shortened by 50% of the length and tied to a support.
2. The side branches are removed, leaving only 2–3 cm.
3. Every year after this in the spring, the main conductor is cut to a bud opposite to last year's pruning, leaving 15 cm of growth. The following year, the procedure is repeated, with the cut facing the other side. This ensures a relatively straight, albeit zigzag, shape of the bush.
4. Side branches are cut to 2–3 cm every spring, stimulating branching.
5. In the final version, the height of the cordon reaches one and a half meters or higher.

When forming red currants like a cordon from a bush that occupies a smaller area, you can collect more berries

The formation of a bush on a trellis resembles a cordon with outgoing horizontal shoots. With this method, plants are better pollinated, it is convenient to apply fertilizers, and pick berries. Currants are grown on a trellis like this:

1. Select an annual seedling with three distinct shoots.
2. A central conductor is formed from one shoot.
3. The two remaining shoots are placed opposite, forming the first tier approximately at a height of 30 cm from the surface of the earth.
4. As the bush grows, the tiers are built up, placing them horizontally in the same way as the bottom one.

Such bushes grow up to one and a half meters in height with side branches up to 90–100 cm long. Usually, currants have four tiers on a trellis. After final formation of all tiers, the central conductor is annually cut to the lower bud, while the side branches are shortened to 2–3 cm. In July, the main shoot and side branches are pruned again by 10 cm.

The formation of red currants on a trellis improves pollination of the bush

Sanitary pruning

Sanitary pruning begins in the spring, when frost-damaged, broken, thickening crowns and shoots growing inward are removed, and does not stop throughout the summer. If buds or shoots affected by pests are found, they are immediately removed and destroyed.

When sanitary pruning, thickening shoots are removed

When pruning currants, several conditions are observed:

• they try to clear the middle of the bush so that all branches are evenly illuminated;
• every autumn, cut the side shoots halfway to the outer bud, stimulating branching;

  Cutting red currant shoots halfway to the outer bud stimulates the formation of new branches.

• after pruning, four shoots of all ages are retained so that the bush bears fruit and can fully grow and branch;
• when shortening shoots, the cut is made at a distance from the bud no more than 5 mm, so as not to damage it. The pruning shears are held at an angle of 45° to the branch;

  Positioning the pruning shears at a 45 degree angle allows you to remove thicker branches

• do not touch the tops of shoots of two or three years, since it is on them that the main fruiting of red currants is ensured;
• if the shoot branches and one of the branches grows downward or horizontally, it is removed from the branching site;

  Shoots growing horizontally are removed so that more berries are on the upper branches of the red currant - they are better illuminated by the sun and ripen faster

• prevent plant thickening. One or two strong zero shoots are left every year, the rest are removed;
• starting from the fourth year, old fruit-bearing branches are pruned at the root or to a strong top shoot;
• in the spring, weak, top and basal shoots (located at the soil surface in the root collar area) are cut into rings; in the fall, second-order shoots are shortened by 10 cm to a bud growing outward;
• unproductive old branches are cut off at the root into a ring, leaving no stumps.

When removing thickening shoots, no stumps are left; cuts are made at soil level

In addition to proper pruning, currant bushes are provided with care, including regular watering and fertilizing, mulching the tree trunk, preventing diseases and identifying pest damage.

Video: mulching red currants in autumn

All this is done in order to enjoy with your own berries at the end of the season. Although the season ends not with harvesting, but with preparing the site for winter. And there is spring and new troubles.

For the pleasure of eating delicious jelly or fresh juicy red currant berries, you have to plant bushes, water them, care for them, and prune them. But this work brings joy to gardeners and brings fruit.

Red Ribes- a useful and high-yielding garden crop. With good care, the bush bears fruit for 20 years.

It also exhibits drought resistance and can withstand low temperature up to -40 C and is relatively unpretentious to the type of soil.

There are both early-ripening and late-ripening varieties of red currants. That's why with the right combination You can harvest from the garden plot from May until late autumn.

Berries can be used for medicinal purposes. They contain useful material, which will be useful for vascular diseases, rheumatism, gout, low stomach acidity and dysentery.

This article talks about how to choose a redcurrant variety, as well as about the peculiarities of its cultivation on a summer cottage.

Variety selection

At the moment, it is actively cultivated in agriculture more than 70 varieties red currant. Each of them has a certain set of characteristics.

Gardeners use varieties with their optimal combination, based on the characteristics of the region and crop requirements. To choose most suitable variety , it makes sense to familiarize yourself with their features:

Zoned varieties

Due to different combinations of characteristics, different varieties can be more adapted to growth in a particular area.

Recommendations for the region of their planting, formed as a result of research by breeders, are called zoning. Listed below are the main currant cultivation regions and varieties: suitable for cultivation in these regions:

• In conditions Moscow region An excellent choice would be: Natalie, Dutch red, Dutch pink, Ziralt, Versailles white, Red Vixne, Sugar, Detvan, Beloved, Osipovskaya;
• Varieties suitable for planting V middle lane : Erstling aus Vierlanden, Natalie, Dutch pink, Ziralt, Generous, Versailles white, Red vixne, Jonker van Tets, Detvan, Red Andreichenko, Dutch red, Vika, Niva;
• Varieties suitable for growing conditions in Siberia: Natalie, Yuterbogskaya, Dutch pink, Tsiralt, Sugar, Detvan, Red Andreichenko, Ural beauty, Ural souvenir, Dutch red, Ob sunset, Vika;
• Good varieties to grow in Ukraine: Natalie, Yuterbogskaya, Generous, Versailles white, Detvan, Vika, Niva.

Selection of red currant seedlings

At choosing seedlings For red currants, you need to pay attention to the root system: the more developed it is, the better.

The bark on the branches may peel off slightly, this is not critical. The main thing is that the branches look healthy and not dry. The height of the above-ground part should be from 40 cm.

Offered on the market as young seedlings (2-3 years), so adult plants (5-6 years). The first ones are relatively inexpensive, their price often does not exceed 500 rubles. A perennial bush can cost 3-6 thousand rubles.

Landing

It is better to plant red currants in autumn. It prefers dry and well-lit hills and does not take root well on heavy soils.

It would be optimal to plant 3-4 bushes red and half as much per garden. Seedlings are planted at a distance of about 1.5 meters from each other and around 3 meters between the rows. If possible, as far as possible from fruit trees.

The holes for planting are made large, each side is long up to 60 cm. The dug-out layer of soil needs to be sorted out, removing weeds from it, and it is also advisable to mix it with a couple of buckets of 2-3-year-old humus, 200 g superphosphate and 0.5 l a jar of wood ash.

Fill the hole about ¾ full with part of this mixture and trample it down. Further, when planting, the root collar (the transition zone from the root to the stem) should be deepened to 6-8 cm.

The roots are placed throughout the hole so that they do not bend upward and covered with the soil prepared according to the recipe above. After this the bush needs water generously and, if possible, mulch (create a top layer) with peat or manure.

Usually the bush begins to bear fruit in the third year after planting.

Care

To prevent the bush from stretching out in length, it must be form. The formation of a bush usually begins immediately upon planting.

If you want it to not thicken too much, the tops of the seedlings are cut off. Several buds are left below from which growth will occur.

To form spreading bush its branches are shortened by a third of their length and pressed to the ground, positioned in opposite directions.

The main harvest of red currants comes from 2-5 year old branches. Therefore, all weak shoots should be cut out annually. As a result, an 8-year-old bush should have about 20 branches of different ages.

After this, from time to time thin out. To do this, all branches older than 6-8 years, starting from the base, or younger, but infected or not bearing fruit.

Red currants are demanding of fertilizers; when applied in a timely manner, they increase the berry yield by 1.5-2 times. In early spring, each bush should be fed 15-20 gr urea. During flowering, an aqueous solution of bird's eye water is ideal ( 1 liter of litter to 15-20 liters of water) or cow ( 1 liter to 8-10 liters of water) litter.
After harvesting, an ash solution is added to the soil ( 100 g per 10 l).

Every autumn it is advisable to repeat the soil strengthening procedure that was carried out during planting. In the ground under each bush should be added 1 bucket of peat or humus and half a can of ash.

If summer and autumn are dry, it is advisable to water the bushes. It will be enough to pour under one bush 3-5 buckets of water on a dry day in the evening, once in July, once in October.

At making the right choice planting sites and soil care, red currants do not need to be replanted throughout the entire fruiting period. However, if a transplant is really necessary, the procedure will depend on the degree of damage to the bush.

If it is intact, then you can transplant it along with the piece root soil. Or, propagate the bush by layering (using branches). The new site should be prepared according to the principle specified in the “planting” paragraph.

Disease and pest control

Red currants are attacked by the following diseases and pests: