At what distance to plant peppers when planting in the ground. How to plant pepper seedlings in open ground How to plant sweet peppers in open ground

You will need

  • - Seedlings of peppers 30-35 cm tall
  • - Air temperature +13-15 degrees
  • - Raised bed (or greenhouse)
  • - Shovel
  • - Watering can and clean water
  • - Compost
  • - Pegs
  • - Twine (bast)
  • - Wire arches
  • - Film
  • - Fertilizer solution (mullein and superphosphate, water)

Instruction

Do not forget to carry out "solar hardening" from time to time - then it will not burn out from direct sunlight after landing on household plot. Best time planted - evening, at a temperature of + 13-15 degrees. Be sure to make a “warm” bed - raise it at least 30 cm from general level soil.

Dig holes and water them. It is advisable to first add compost to the soil, but in no case fresh manure! It should be deepened to the level of the first leaves. You can plant peppers, leaving about half a meter between rows and about 45 cm between each plant. Some gardeners use "nests": one hole is dug for a couple of plants, a square of about 50 by 50 cm (or a little more) is allocated under it. Pepper is a cross-pollinated crop, so (despite the help of insects), planting seedlings in pairs can greatly increase the yield. Keep in mind that sweet and bitter varieties can also pollinate, which will spoil the taste of the fruit. You need to plant peppers of different varieties separately.

Place a peg next to each plant (more than half a meter high) and carefully tie the stem with a washcloth or twine. Proceed with caution, as the leaves and shoots of this crop are extremely fragile. Make arcs of wire a meter high and stretch a film over them to save for seedlings of peppers required humidity and warm. When the weather settles, open the film completely or only from the south side; at night, it is recommended to always close the bed with peppers.

Useful advice

It is good to plant pepper on the soil where cultures of the cruciferous family (turnip, cabbage, mustard and others) used to grow. The soil should always be loose and moist. When the pepper seedlings take root, wait two weeks and feed the plants with an aqueous solution of organic and mineral fertilizers. Dilute ten times the mullein and take a tablespoon of superphosphate in a bucket of water. Total for square meter beds need no more than half a bucket of this mixture.

Related article

Sources:

  • Secrets of growing sweet peppers

Pepper is truly a miracle vegetable. The amount of vitamin C is unmatched. It contains a lot of carotene, nicotinic and folic acid. And it is no wonder that you want to grow such a valuable vegetable on your site. And anyone can get a good harvest of pepper. But at the same time, it is necessary to pay sufficient attention to plants.

Instruction

For sowing, it is necessary to prepare a nutrient mixture from garden humus with the addition of sand and wood ash. Pour this mixture with water and carefully steam over a fire. Seeds are sown in hot, at 40-45 degrees, nutritious soil. Seeds are placed in grooves to a depth of 1.5 cm. The distance between them should be 2 cm.

During the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to limit watering to once. Abundant watering at this stage usually causes blackleg disease. The water temperature should be 25-28 degrees. It is advisable to use distilled water.

As soon as the seedlings have two leaves, which will take about 30-35 days, you can start diving them. Water the seedlings a few hours before picking, as when dry, the soil will crumble from the roots. Plants can be transplanted into pots or 10x10 cm in size.

During the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to limit watering to once. Abundant watering at this stage usually causes the black leg disease of the plant. Water temperature for irrigation should be 25-28 degrees. It is advisable to use distilled water.

Within a week after planting, gently loosen the soil - this will improve air access to the root system. You can only feed with a special preparation for growth.

Until the flowering period, it is enough to water the pepper once a week. But in hot weather, you can increase the amount of watering. Remember that plants should never be watered. cold water otherwise they will stop growing and bearing fruit.

Loosen the soil occasionally. In total, during the summer it is necessary to carry out 3-4 loosening with hilling.

It is also important to feed the plant with various fertilizers. During flowering, you can use slurry at a rate of 1:10 or urea. Next top dressing must be carried out during the fruiting period. Use bird droppings or a solution of nitrophoska.

In order for the pepper bushes not to grow too much, you need to remove the upper flowers and stepchildren. Also, when the stem of the pepper reaches about 25 cm in height, remove the top of the stem. This procedure will allow the side shoots to develop well.

Pepper is a crop that is best grown from seedlings, as it has a long ripening period. In the southern regions, it is grown by planting seedlings in the ground open type, and in all the rest - in greenhouses.

You will need

  • - pepper seeds;
  • - seedlings of pepper;
  • - greenhouse or open ground.

Instruction

Most the best vegetables grow from seeds, which are designated "F1". This means first-generation hybrids that have taken all varietal characteristics from their high-grade "parents".

Pepper "Viking". An early ripe variety that is grown in open ground and indoors. The plant is medium. It has fruits of a cylindrical shape, glossy, with a smooth surface. Fruit weight - from 100 to 150 g. Ripe fruits have a bright red color, excellent taste qualities and a faint aroma. Sowing seeds is done with the onset of March. Seedlings are planted in greenhouses or soil after seventy days. The principle of planting is in rows. The distance between rows is 50 cm, between seedlings is 35 cm. Viking pepper needs a trellis for growing, as it forms two stems. It is not necessary to tie plants to it. Pepper is not stored for a long time, it is used fresh and for canning.

Pepper "Hercules". It is one of the varieties most suitable for growing in. "Hercules" refers to mid-season and large-fruited. The fruits ripen ninety days after transplanting. The fruits are cube-shaped, ribbed, elongated. The weight of one fruit is from 200 to 300 g. The pulp of the fruit is dense, juicy and very fragrant. This variety contains a lot of vitamin C. Ripe fruits are dark red. Variety "Hercules" is universal. It is not susceptible to viruses, in particular - tobacco mosaic. Likes to grow in well-lit, warm places. The largest crop is obtained in protected ground. Seedlings are planted in greenhouses fifty days after sowing seeds. Planting seedlings - in rows. Distance between rows - 70 cm, between bushes - 25 cm. Pepper "Hercules" has a high keeping quality and can be stored for up to two months.

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Planting seedlings of pepper in open ground - very important point, so you need to approach it as responsibly as possible. It depends on how successful the planting of seedlings in the ground will be. further fate plants: whether they will take root in a new place or not, whether they will get sick, how they will adapt to new living conditions, whether they will give a good harvest. You have been preparing for this moment for several months, spending time and energy preparing pepper seeds for sowing, planting seeds for seedlings, diving and growing seedlings. Halfway already passed. It remains to plant seedlings in open ground, provide her proper care and wait for the ripening of the treasured pepper.

When to plant pepper seedlings in the ground?

By the time of planting in the ground, pepper seedlings should have 8 - 12 leaves. Pepper seedlings can be planted in the ground at the stage of formation of the first buds.

By the time of planting, the average daily temperature should be at the level of 15 - 17 °C. A threat spring frosts by this time should be gone. Soil temperature at planting depth should be at least 10 - 12°C. Too early planting of seedlings in open ground is dangerous because at low soil temperatures the growth and development of plants is inhibited, and the likelihood of diseases increases. In addition, pepper does not tolerate frost well.

Pepper seedlings intended for growing in a greenhouse are planted in the ground on May 1-15. Pepper seedlings are planted in open ground on May 10 - 30, while the seedlings must be covered with a film.

Choosing a site for growing peppers

When choosing a plot for pepper in your garden, please note that pepper cannot be planted in the place where it grew in the previous year, as well as where potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, physalis, and tobacco used to grow. It is better to opt for a site where cucumbers, cabbage, legumes, pumpkin crops, root crops, and greens grew last year.

The area under the pepper should be well lit, protected from the wind, cleared of weeds, the soil on it should be sufficiently fertile, well drained and retain moisture.

Preparing the soil for planting pepper seedlings

If the soil on the site loamy, before planting pepper seedlings, it must be fertilized. For 1 m 2 of soil, add 1 bucket of well-rotted manure and peat, as well as half a bucket of half-rotted sawdust.

If the soil in the garden clayey and dense, in addition to humus and peat per 1 m 2 of soil, an additional 1 bucket of coarse-grained sand and 1 bucket of half-rotted sawdust should be added.

For the preparation of peaty plot for seedlings of pepper per 1 m 2 of soil add 1 bucket of humus and 1 bucket of soddy soil (clay can be).

For fertilizer sandy beds per 1 m 2 of soil, you need to add 2 buckets of peat and clay soil, 2 buckets of humus and 1 bucket of sawdust.

A week before planting pepper seedlings, a garden filled with fertilizers is watered abundantly.

The most favorable time for planting pepper seedlings in the ground is the second half of a cloudy day or a warm evening.

Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to mark the ridges and prepare the holes. The planting scheme for pepper depends largely on the method of irrigation and on the height of the variety.

Undersized varieties peppers are planted at a distance of 30 - 40 cm from each other, tall- at a distance of 60 cm. The distance between the beds should be about 60 cm.

Pepper can be grown in a square-nest way, planting seedlings at the same distance of 60x60 cm and placing 2 plants in each hole at once.

When growing pepper on drip irrigation seedlings are planted in a tape method according to the schemes 90 + 50x35-45 cm or 70 + 70x35-45 cm.

Hole depth should be slightly larger than the height of the seedling cup or pot.

Sweet and hot pepper landed on different beds away from each other, as they can cross-pollinate, causing sweet pepper fruits to become bitter. Spicy pepper plant more densely: the distance between plants in a row is 25 cm, the row spacing is 45 - 50 cm.

Instructions for planting pepper seedlings:

  • Spill the seedlings with water before planting. To protect against pests, especially aphids, spray the seedlings with the Strela solution (50 g of powder per 10 liters of water). Extracting seedlings from pots or cups must be done very carefully, trying not to disturb the earthen clod.
  • Add a handful of rotted compost, half a handful of ash and a teaspoon of superphosphate to each hole, then fill it to the brim with warm water. When the water is absorbed, immerse the pepper seedling pulled out of the seedling pot into the hole. Pepper does not like strong penetration, so the seedlings are planted in the ground at the level of the upper root. You can not fall asleep the root neck, otherwise the development of a black leg and other diseases is possible.
  • Holding the pepper with your hand, fill the hole with water again. Water must be poured onto the walls of the hole so that the washed soil envelops the earth seedling.
  • Fill the hole with earth, compact the soil a little and mulch with peat.
  • For further garter, place a peg about 60 cm high near each plant.
  • After planting pepper seedlings in the ground, the bed should be covered with a film. To do this, at a height of 120 cm, make wire arcs and throw covering material on them. When the seedlings take root and warm weather sets in, the shelter will need to be removed.

In the first 8 - 10 days after planting the seedlings in the ground, the pepper looks sluggish, painful and practically does not grow. This is due to the fact that in the process of transplantation, no matter how hard you try, root system pepper is still a little damaged. Getting into new environment habitat, the plant is under stress. Peppers need some time to adapt to new conditions.

After planting pepper seedlings in the ground, it is very important not to overdo it with watering, as fragile roots can rot. If possible, for the first time after planting, it is advisable to monitor the condition of the seedlings daily and slightly moisten the soil in the area of ​​​​the stem (100 - 150 ml of water per plant every day). First real watering carried out no earlier than a week after planting seedlings in the ground.

To help the pepper seedlings take root faster, you can loosen the soil a little in the root zone. Such surface loosening provides an additional influx of oxygen and helps plants adapt faster.

To have a better understanding of the pepper planting process, we recommend watching a video on this topic.

Sweet pepper, or as it is called "Bulgarian" in our country, is rich in useful elements, has a bright juicy taste and breeds quite well in the difficult climatic conditions of Russia. Therefore, this vegetable is so fond of our compatriots.

It is rare in which garden you will not find this culture. Peppers are planted mainly in open ground, as the seedlings take root perfectly, peppers grow together, and it is quite simple to care for it.

The cultivation of this culture begins with a timely and competent landing seedlings. The whole crop depends on this stage, therefore, the process of sowing seeds, as well as growing pepper seedlings, must be taken very responsibly.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Sweet pepper, as well as other main crops in our country, is grown through seedlings. Usually, pepper seeds are sown for seedlings in mid-March, so that by the end of May the bushes can be planted in open ground. Of course, the timing of sowing seeds varies slightly depending on the variety of pepper. If it's about early maturing varieties, then sowing is carried out in mid-March, if grown late varieties then at the end of February.

Properly selected and planted seeds are the key to a plentiful future harvest. For this, the seed is carefully selected, leaving only strong, large and beautiful seeds. Next, the seeds are poured hot water and waiting to swell. After the seeds increase in size, they are wrapped in a damp cloth and left for a couple of days until the seeds hatch. Only after all these manipulations are the seeds planted in a prepared fertile soil. By this time, the seeds are already ready for rapid growth, so seedlings will appear after 3-5 days.

Not only seeds are prepared for planting, but also the soil itself. The soil mixture should consist of humus, peat and earth. You can also add some sand to improve the penetration of moisture into the soil. In order to disinfect the earth, the mixture is abundantly flavored with ash, and then everything is thoroughly mixed and sterilized at a temperature of 45-55 degrees (possible in the oven or microwave).

Sowing seeds

Usually seeds are planted in seedling boxes or special cassettes in rows. However, it is best to use separate peat cups, as peppers do not tolerate picking very well.

Crops are carefully watered (it is better to choose the sprinkling method), and then covered with a film and put in a warm sunny place. If there is not enough light, then it is better to put a fluorescent lamp over the seedlings.

Advice: optimum temperature for seed germination - 22-24 degrees.

As soon as the first shoots appear, the film is removed from the boxes, and the temperature is increased to 28 degrees. at night better temperature lower to + 15-17 degrees.

Humidity should be moderate, as in waterlogged conditions, seedlings will quickly be struck by a black leg.

Water for irrigation should be warm and settled.

Planting seedlings in the ground

After picking, peppers begin their intensive development. From the moment of sowing seeds for seedlings to planting the grown bushes on the garden, an average of 90-100 days pass (depending on the variety).

7-10 days before the solemn moment of planting plants in the garden, you need to start preparing young peppers for a new life on the street. To do this, seedlings are hardened by taking out boxes with seedlings on the veranda or on warm days outside. The temperature in the room is also gradually lowered, gradually accustoming the peppers to coolness. Every day the duration of walks increases. And in last days you can leave the seedlings already on the veranda to spend the night.

Fact: at a temperature not lower than + 14-15 degrees, peppers are perfectly hardened and tolerate transplantation better.

Location selection

It is important to choose right place for the pepper bed. Bulgarian pepper is a thermophilic culture, and therefore the sun is vital for it. The place should be protected from the north winds, and also be away from tall shrubs and fruit trees. It is best to plant on the south side of the site.

Shade for pepper is fatal. If a plant does not get a lot of light, then it will stretch into growth, the flow of nutrients to it will decrease and very few ovaries will form.

The best predecessors for peppers are zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers, melons, cabbage, legumes and perennial herbs. But in places where nightshade crops previously grew, it is not recommended to plant peppers, since after them harmful microbes can remain in the soil, which immediately attack pepper bushes.

Advice: If Bell pepper plant next to varieties of hot peppers, then cross-pollination can occur and sweet peppers will become bitter in taste.

Pepper beds are arranged on fertile, light soil with a neutral pH. If ground water pass close to the surface, then the peppers will grow poorly, so you need to play it safe and make a bed at a height.

Soil preparation

The harvest of garden crops largely depends on the cultivation and preparation of the soil for sowing. If the land begins to be prepared in the fall, then initially everything is cleared of weeds. Autumn digging should be deep so that all pest larvae are outside and in winter period died.

If the soil is clayey, then organic matter (manure, compost or peat) is added to it, as well as sand and ash per liter per square. During deep plowing, you can not break up large clods of soil, so the earth will better retain moisture after the snow melts.

Advice: immediately after the introduction of organic substances, peppers are not planted, otherwise the hearths will “burn out”.

In the spring, they also dig the site, only this time they break the lumps and level the ground. This time they add to the ground mineral fertilizers such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

By the time the seedlings are planted, the soil should “ripen”, that is, dry thoroughly after the winter. You can learn about the maturity of the earth by taking a handful of earth from a depth of 10 centimeters and throwing it from a height of one meter. If a lump has fallen apart, then the earth has dried out and is ready for work. In waterlogged soil, seedlings will grow unevenly.

If the soil was not cultivated in autumn, then harmful microorganisms probably remained in its pores. Therefore, before planting seedlings, it is necessary to disinfect the beds with a solution blue vitriol.

Landing dates

Each crop has its own planting dates. Pepper, of course, is no exception. Pepper seedlings in open ground begin to be planted at the end of May, when the weather outside is warm and dry, and the air temperature is at least 17 degrees.

The maturity and complete readiness of pepper for a new life on the street can be judged by strong stems, 7-8 fully opened leaves, as well as the beginning of the formation of the first flower ovaries. It is necessary to try to prevent overgrowth of seedlings, that is, at the time of planting, the bushes should not bloom, otherwise the plants will not survive the transplant well.

By this time, the earth usually warms up to 8-10 degrees, useful microorganisms come to life in it, thanks to which the seedlings will quickly get stronger and grow. The first month, the bushes protect from the night cold with film shelters and remove the mobile greenhouse only by the end of June.

Important: pepper seedlings are planted in the greenhouse in April.

Advice: planting peppers too early can cause stunting of plants, and frosts will completely destroy plantings.

landing plan

As already mentioned, peppers are very fond of heat, so it is so important to provide the bushes with uniform lighting. The denser the plants are planted, the less each of them will receive light (and other nutrients), and accordingly the fruits will appear later and there will be relatively fewer of them.

Pepper seedlings are planted in separate holes at a considerable distance from each other. Early ripe varieties placed at a distance of 25-30 centimeters, leaving at least 45-50 centimeters in the aisle. Ridges of mid-ripening peppers are removed from each other by 60-70 centimeters. Late varieties of sweet pepper need more space, so they are placed about 35 centimeters apart, and the aisles are widened up to 70 centimeters.

Planting seedlings

Seedlings are planted in the garden immediately in peat cups, or carefully pulled out of the usual container by transshipment (that is, leaving a clod of earth on the roots) and deepened into the prepared hole. Before this, up to two liters of water are poured into the wells and a handful of wood ash and minerals are added.

Advice: The root system of sweet pepper is very fragile, so when transplanting, you need to moisten the soil well so that the bush is easier to remove from the cup.

Plants should be planted at the same depth as the peppers grew in the seedling container. Depth of laying - the junction of the stem and root system. The root neck should not remain deep underground, but it also does not need to be on the surface. After the bush is laid in the hole, it is sprinkled with earth, slightly crushed (but not tamped) and watered with warm, settled water. When filling the hole with earth, do not allow the formation of an earthen slide, otherwise the moisture will spread in different directions.

Note: some gardeners practice deepening the plant down to the first cotyledon leaves. At the same time, additional shoots are formed on the roots, which additionally collect moisture and nutrition from the soil.

Care after landing

Timely care for planting pepper will bring results in the form of big harvest delicious quality fruit. Sweet pepper needs warmth, light and water.

Initially, as soon as the peppers are planted in the beds, the bushes are still weak enough to overcome the night cold snap. Therefore, the first month (and in cold summers and the entire growing period) the bed must be kept under a film cover. It is better to use a woven material that will keep the heat inside and prevent the greenhouse effect.

Pepper bushes need a constant supply sunlight. Any shadow can provoke a slowdown in the growth process. To prevent this from happening, you need to carry out regular stepsoning and removal of the lower leaves.

Tall varieties of peppers require a garter. Since there are varieties that can grow up to a meter or more in height, such plants cannot cope with their weight and weight of fruits. Therefore, a strong stake is placed for each bush, to which the plant is tied according to the degree of its growth.

You should also regularly weed the pepper bed from the weed, if necessary, spud the bushes.

Peppers are self-pollinating plants. But in order to help them cope with the work, it is useful to involve pollinating insects in this process. To do this, you can spray the plants with a sugar solution.

Watering pepper

Pepper seedlings take root rather slowly in new conditions. Most often you can see that the bushes withered and look sick. However, at this time, the main thing is not to overdo it with watering, as many summer residents are in a hurry to help the plants bounce back in this way and thereby fill in young peppers.

However, it should be borne in mind that wilting of leaves after planting is a natural process. Therefore, the first weeks the bushes should be watered 3 times a week with warm, settled water. It is necessary to water under the root, so as not to hurt the leaves. During the period of fruit formation, the frequency of watering is increased - now the bushes need up to 4-5 liters per day. Based on this, it is better to water a little more often.

If there is sultry clear weather outside, then the flowers may fall off, and the formation of the ovaries will stop. The pollen becomes sterile. Therefore, it is so important to maintain the water balance and during such periods switch to daily watering by sprinkling.

Fact: lack of moisture leads to a weakening of the whole organism of the plant, which is fraught with a decrease in yield.

Trying to protect peppers from drought, many gardeners go to the other extreme - waterlogging the earth. This can provoke the formation of fungus in the pores of the soil and infection of the underground part of the bushes with rot or mold.

To maintain the golden mean, experienced vegetable growers mulch the ground under the bushes. Mulch in the form of sawdust or dried grass can keep the soil moist for a long time and save the roots from overheating.

loosening

Loosening is another important agricultural technique in caring for a crop such as pepper. This procedure creates a favorable background for the penetration of moisture into the soil and the flow of air to the roots.

Loosening allows you to beat the ground so that a dry crust does not form on it, blocking the pores through which the life-giving forces of water and oxygen enter the plant.

For the first time, loosening is carried out 5-6 days after planting the seedlings in the garden. It is better to loosen the earth with a small hoe, slightly lifting upper layer soil. The first times loosen only superficially, since the roots of the pepper are unusually fragile and any movement can damage them.

The benefits of loosening:

  • improves air exchange;
  • the plant grows faster, and the root becomes stronger;
  • the functioning of beneficial microorganisms is stimulated;
  • weeds are destroyed.

If the soil on the site is heavy, lumpy, then you need to loosen the earth more often so that water does not stagnate in it and the fungus does not develop. The loosened earth will be better ventilated.

Advice: you need to loosen the ground after each watering, when the soil dries slightly, but the crust does not have time to form on it.

Top dressing

First step

The most important factor in fertility bell pepper is the timely application of fertilizers. Peppers growing in the open ground definitely need recharge, moreover, regular and varied in composition. The first top dressing is introduced during the seedling period, when 2-3 leaves appear on the bushes. As fertilizers, a composition of water and ammonium nitrate is used. You also need to feed the plant potash fertilizer and superphosphate.

The second top dressing is carried out two weeks after the first fertilization. Fertilize also with minerals. Effective top dressing of pepper bushes special mixture from water and nettles.

The last top dressing of seedlings is carried out a few days before planting seedlings in the garden, increasing the potassium element in the composition of fertilizers.

Second phase

As soon as the peppers are planted in open ground, the second stage of feeding begins. During this period, not only mineral fertilizers are used, but also organic ones. Best suited for this chicken manure or humus.

At first, plants need to increase their vegetative mass, for which they arrange root fertilizing with nitrogen. Peppers also need potassium and phosphorus from minerals.

The first top dressing is carried out 10-14 days after planting seedlings in open ground. The composition of the main nutrients includes nitrophoska, bird droppings and water. This mixture is poured under the root of the plants.

When the peppers bloom, it's time for the second top dressing. In order for plants to have the strength and powerful resources to form fruits, they need potassium. There is a lot of it in wood ash, so you can sprinkle pepper bushes with ash. You can also fertilize the bushes with a mixture of urea, humus, litter and water.

Attention! Carry out top dressing of peppers chemicals strictly prohibited, as the poison penetrates the fruit.

The last top dressing is carried out to stimulate the growth of fruits. Potassium salt and superphosphate contribute best to fruit pouring. This composition should be sprayed with bushes.

Tip: nitrogen in large quantities you need to use only in the first month, otherwise the plants will "fatten", that is, the tops will grow to the detriment of the formation of ovaries of buds and subsequently fruits.

Advice: Root top dressing should be done in moist soil.

Formation of peppers

All peppers need bush formation. This procedure perfectly helps better ventilation and illumination of plants.

The method of formation is chosen depending on the variety: if the plant is tall, then you need to cut and remove excess shoots, and pinch the top to stop growth; in low-growing species of pepper, the lower shoots are cut off, as well as non-fruiting branches.

Important: dwarf varieties do not cut the peppers

.

Rules for the formation of a pepper bush:


Leaf pruning:

  1. When the fruits are ripe enough on the lower brush, the leaves are trimmed on the main stem. It is important not to cut them all, but to do it gradually, or rather, remove two sheets a week.
  2. As soon as peppers also ripen on the second brush, a second pruning is performed.
  3. Then a similar procedure is carried out when the fruits ripen on all other brushes.
  4. Trimming the leaves is completed one and a half months before harvest.

Protection against diseases and pests

Plants growing in open ground are more likely to be exposed to diseases than those that are reliably hidden from ailments in greenhouses. Peppers, unfortunately, get sick often. They are especially sensitive to improper care. If you do not follow the rules of agricultural technology, then most likely the bushes will get sick.

Fact: hybrid varieties get sick much less often.

Common Pepper Diseases:


Pests also annoy pepper plantings, sometimes causing significant damage to the crop.

Each of these pests affects pepper bushes in its own way. So the wireworm gnaws at the roots of plants. You can get rid of it by digging up the ground in a timely manner and placing baits in the form of sweet fruits, to which these insects will crawl. Thus, they can be collected and destroyed.

To forget about slugs will help nutshells scattered over the area, ground pepper. Pests will also start hunting for food, and you just have to collect heaps of slugs and clean them from the garden.

When fighting with a bear, immediately before planting, a little onion infusion is poured into the holes, which will scare away the pest from pepper roots that are sweet for it.

From aphids, a solution of whey and water helps.

Spider mites settle on inside leaves and suck their juice. You can get rid of it using chemistry or resorting to folk methods: mix liquid soap with chopped onion or garlic and dandelion leaves. This solution is sprayed with pepper bushes.

Pepper is one of vegetable crops, which contain a lot of useful vitamins.

The culture belongs to the genus Solanaceae. In our growing conditions, pepper is an annual plant.

Agrotechnical measures for pepper are a little easier than for tomatoes, since it does not need to be stepsoned.

The plant is grown for various culinary purposes and not only.

The process of growing this crop is a very creative process. And you need to do this business only at a time when you have good mood. And with this attitude, you will receive not only good seedlings but also a high yield.

This article will tell you about all the aspects of cultivating a crop.

What features of the culture should be considered when growing pepper?

There are biological and morphological characteristics of pepper that need to be known. We will talk about them below.

What applies to morphological characteristics:

  • The power and thickness of the plant bush. Depending on the variety, the height and thickness of the plant is different.
  • Leaf shape and length.
  • The dimension of the fruits and their location on the bush. As well as their color in different periods of maturation.
  • The thickness of the walls of the pepper.
  • The root system of culture.

What are biological features:

  • It is necessary to take into account the temperature in which the culture will grow.
  • The second thing you need to know is the optimal humidity that the pepper needs.
  • Usually pepper is grown without the use of the following measures: pinching and pinching. But there are exceptions, also pinching can increase crop yields.
  • It is necessary to pay attention to the illumination of the place with sunlight for planting crops.
  • An important factor are the soils on which the pepper will be planted. The culture does not tolerate acidic soils.

What should be the soil for pepper?

The soil for planting pepper should be both fertile and moist.

All the nuances of different soils:

  • To improve the fertility of loamy soil, rotted sawdust (in the amount of one bucket per one square meter), manure (in the amount of one bucket) or peat (in the amount of two buckets) is added to it.
  • To improve the fertility of clay soil, two ingredients are added to it - coarse sand and rotted sawdust (one bucket of each).
  • With the predominance of peat soils, soddy soil and humus are added (in the amount of one bucket per square meter).
  • With sandy soils, peat or clay soil, two buckets of humus and one bucket of sawdust.

To prepare the soil for planting pepper, fertilizers are applied to it. For one square meter you need to add: one glass of wood ash; superphosphate; one tablespoon of potassium sulfate and one teaspoon of urea.

After adding all components soil needs to be dug up, while making beds thirty centimeters high. Next, the leveled surface of the earth is watered with a solution of water and mullein (in the amount of half a liter per one bucket of water) or a solution of sodium humate (at the rate of one tablespoon per one bucket of water).

About four liters of solution are consumed per square meter of land. After the measures taken, the soil is ready for planting pepper.

There are the following pepper varieties: sweet and spicy. Sweet varieties include: "Gladiator", "Lyceum", "Victoria", "Ermak", "Zaznayka" and many others. Spicy varieties include: "Chili", "Ukrainian bitter", "Vietnamese bouquet" and others.

Preparation of pepper seedlings and the necessary care for it

Pepper seedlings are very fond of organic fertilizers. You can fertilize with such fertilizers every ten days.

Picked seedlings love foliar feeding. Kemira Combi fertilizer is suitable for this, it contains a lot of trace elements. A diluted solution of fertilizer should be sprayed on the leaves of the plant both above and below. This event should be carried out in the early morning, before the sun shines.

Foliar feeding of the plant should be alternated with watering the crop.

When a yellowish color appears on the leaves, this indicates a lack of nitrogen.

Must not forget water the crop and make sure that there is no waterlogging or drainage of the soil. Rare watering leads to leaf fall and wilting of the plant. And excessive watering leads to bad job plant root system.

How to plant pepper, the main nuances

Before planting, you must first harden the culture, this is done fourteen days before planting the pepper in the ground. Hardening begins with a positive temperature of 15 degrees, and very slowly lower it, but not less than + 11 ° C.

Planting pepper is best done in evening time days. It is necessary to observe the distance between rows of about 65 cm and between seedlings 40 cm. You can also use the square-nesting method (60x60 cm or 70x70 cm) and plant two or three plants in one hole.

To maintain the plant from breakage, it is necessary when planting set the pegs(during the period of growth, it is better not to install pegs, since you can harm the root system of the plant) for which the bush will be tied up in the future.

Pepper after planting takes root very slowly, in order to contribute to better air circulation in the soil, you need to lightly loosen the soil around the pepper.

Peppers have an average growing season of just over three months, so pepper seeds begin to be prepared from January. The timing of planting a crop mainly depends on how the plant will take root in the open field. In warm areas, pepper seeds are planted until mid-March, and for the middle zone, planting is carried out in February. And planted in the ground at the end of May.

The scheme of planting pepper in the ground

In the third decade of May or early July, pepper seedlings are planted in prepared beds.

The distance between rows should be about 60 cm, and the distance between seedlings 40 cm.

And you can also use the square-nesting method (60x60 cm or 70x70 cm) and plant two or three plants in one hole.

If you are planting several varieties of pepper, then they need to be planted at the maximum distance between them, as the crops are pollinated.

What is cultural concern?

In the fight against various diseases and pests (for example: white rot, black leg, Colorado beetle, various slugs) folk remedies can help.

Many crops that grow nearby can also take care of their neighboring growing crops as well as protect them from various diseases and pests.

You can also water the plant every fourteen days with various solutions for preventive purposes.

Caring for the culture consists in proper soil moisture, tying the plant, weeding and feeding the plant.

Watering peppers in the open field is very important for the crop. The earth must be constantly moist. If the soil is dry, then the plant may develop poorly. If there are small atmospheric plantings, then watering the crop should be reduced, and if precipitation is constant, then watering should be stopped altogether.

The optimal time of day for watering is morning, if the night was cold, and if the night was warm, then you can water both day and evening. Water is used not cold, but warm.

Pepper is one of the most capricious vegetable crops, and its harvest directly depends on compliance with agricultural cultivation practices. The most crucial stage in the cultivation of a vegetable is planting seedlings. It is important to know how, where and with what to plant this popular garden culture. To get the maximum yield, it is important to figure out how to plant peppers in the ground.

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    When to plant seedlings?

    When choosing the time of sowing for seedlings, it is necessary to calculate the timing so that by the time the pepper is planted in open ground, the average daily temperature is at least 15-16 degrees. The soil should warm up to 10-12 degrees. IN middle lane this happens around May 20-30. By this date, as a rule, the threat of frost has passed, from which the planted plants can suffer.

    In more early dates it is not advisable to plant pepper, as low temperature air and soil will cause stress in plants. The growth of the vegetable will slow down, and with it, the harvest will also be delayed. Hypothermia during planting will certainly cause a decrease in crop yield.

    Seedlings by the time of planting should have 9-12 leaves. Early varieties at this stage, the first buds are already forming. Unlike tomatoes, peppers can be planted during flowering. The optimal age of seedlings for placing them in open ground is 80-90 days. Plants that are less than 70 days old are too weak and adapt to external conditions with difficulties. The harvest from such seedlings will be late and too small.

    Not suitable for planting and overgrown seedlings. Often you can find recommendations from vegetable growers that pepper should be sown in early February. But by the time they are ready to plant such plants in open ground, the air temperature is not high enough. As a result, plants age instead of entering the stage of active fruiting.

    Seedlings for growing in open ground are recommended to be sown no earlier than the beginning of March - late varieties, mid-March - early. With such sowing dates, the seedlings will be ideally prepared by the time the favorable temperature for planting occurs.

    Seedling hardening

    In order for the pepper to successfully adapt to new growing conditions, seedlings must be hardened off before being placed in open ground. Two weeks before planting, boxes with seedlings are taken out into the street.

    In the first days, the seedling walk should last 2-3 hours. The place for installing the boxes is selected in such a way that the direct rays of the sun do not fall on the plants, and the stems are not affected by gusts of wind. Plants need to be placed under a canopy and protected from the windy side with some kind of device.

    Gradually, the time spent by the boxes on fresh air increase. In the afternoon, the boxes are exposed to the sun. By the middle of the second week of hardening, boxes of pepper are left outside for the whole day, and brought indoors at night. Alternatively, you can build a mini-greenhouse for seedlings using a film thrown over an arched frame. Then you do not have to carry the boxes outside and into the house. It will be enough to slightly open the film from the end during the day, and close it at night.

    IMPORTANT. If the seedlings are not accustomed to the sun's rays, in the first days after planting, the peppers will burn and shed all the resulting leaves. good harvest cannot be obtained from such material.

    Site selection and preparation

    The choice of a place for planting pepper must be approached wisely. This culture will not thrive in the shade. The area under the pepper should be in the most lit place for the maximum part of the day.

    Second important condition is wind protection. It is recommended to additionally protect the crop from drafts with an embankment next to the bed on the leeward side. You can plant peppers on the south side of the house, so it will receive maximum heat and sunlight, which means it will feel great.

    The soil for growing pepper should be slightly acidic, light and moisture permeable. You can not plant this vegetable in loam, in which air access to the roots will be limited. The best predecessors of pepper are carrots, onions, cucumbers. You can not place pepper in areas where it grew in the previous year. Eggplants and tomatoes are also unacceptable as predecessors, since they are prone to the same diseases.

    The site for planting is prepared in the fall. When digging in the fall, a bucket of compost is added to one square. Half a bucket of sawdust and a glass of wood ash. During spring digging, an additional half a bucket of humus or compost is added. Experienced gardeners it is advised to shed the area prepared for planting pepper with a solution of copper sulfate, in the proportion of 2 tablespoons per 5 liters of water. This quantity disinfectant solution is consumed per 1 square meter of soil.

    It is desirable to form a bed for planting in a day. This is necessary so that the soil slightly settles and compacts, then the planted pepper will not sink to an undesirable height. For pepper it is recommended to do high beds, 25-30 centimeters at least. If you build a wooden or metal formwork, the soil can be raised to a height of 40-50 centimeters. This height will help place the root system of a capricious vegetable in warm soil. Low beds will lead to the fact that the roots will be in the cold.

    IMPORTANT. It is impossible to plant seedlings of bitter and sweet peppers nearby, since this culture is prone to pollination. Landings different kind should be placed as far apart as possible. As a barrier between different varieties pepper, planting corn, sunflower or tomatoes is effective. If you ignore this rule, all planted peppers will become bitter.

    warm bed

    The main condition for obtaining a rich harvest of pepper is heat. This culture is especially demanding on the temperature in which the roots are located. Ideal Conditions for the root system of pepper - a warm bed.

    For its device, a trench is dug 50-60 centimeters deep and 80-90 centimeters wide. To ensure the desired height when laying layers, it is advisable to use a wooden or metal case on the soil surface along the perimeter of the bed. A layer of sand 10-12 centimeters is poured at the bottom. To protect against rodents, the bottom is covered with a metal mesh. Then lay some medium-sized branches as drainage.

    Straw or last year's tops of carrots, cucumbers, beets are laid on the drainage layer. Alternatively, you can pour foliage harvested in the fall. The rotted manure is added to this layer and everything is mixed. Horse manure has the highest temperature, which can keep a temperature of 60-70 degrees inside the soil for 1-1.5 months, suitable for use cow dung. Pig and sheep manure is not recommended as a biofuel.

    ATTENTION. Do not put fresh manure in the garden, as it will burn the roots of plants.

    The warm layer must be shed with a biological product to accelerate the decomposition processes in it. The warming layer must be carefully compacted, fertile soil 30-40 centimeters high should be poured on it. Such a height is necessary so that the pepper roots are only in the soil and do not reach the bed insulation.

    The bed prepared in this way is spilled with hot water and covered black film. The preparation procedure is carried out 7-8 days before the planting of seedlings. If you do everything right. The timing of the transfer of pepper seedlings to open ground is approaching 1-2 weeks. In addition, the roots that are in such a bed on biofuel receive additional nutrients for development. Harvest of pepper warm garden 25-30% more. than with conventional cultivation.

    Landing technique

    How to plant pepper in open ground so that the seedlings quickly take root? The soil in boxes with seedlings is plentifully watered a day before the intended landing in the ground. This is necessary so that when removed from the box, the small pepper roots are not damaged. If the seedlings are grown in pots, there is no need for such watering.

    Move peppers outdoors preferably in the late afternoon, when the sun begins to set, or on an overcast day. This will prevent overexposure to the sun's rays on the plants, and they will better tolerate the transplant. If you plant a pepper in the very heat, it will wither, and then it will take a long time to return to normal. 1-2 hours before extracting the plants, the soil in the boxes is watered again. Then big sharp knife cut aisles to separate the roots that have grown together with each other. To separate the soil with roots from the bottom and edges of the box, they are tapped with the palm of your hand.

    The scheme for planting pepper depends on the variety:

    • Low-growing varieties are placed at a distance of 30-40 cm between rows of 50-60 cm.
    • Tall varieties - 50-60 cm, 70 cm between rows.
    • The distance between the beds of pepper is 60-70 centimeters.

    A square-nested landing is possible, with a side of squares 60X60. With this method, planting two plants in one hole is acceptable. Square-nest planting is recommended for early low-growing varieties and for hot and bitter peppers.

    For each plant, a hole is made deep enough to fit the root system to its full height. The bend of the roots up or to the side is not allowed. Each well is shed with warm, settled water at the rate of 2-3 liters. Then a handful of humus and a little wood ash are added to the soil.

    The bush is carefully removed from the box with part of the soil. It is not necessary to shake off the earth from the roots, on the contrary, it is worth trying to preserve the clod of earth as much as possible. The bush is placed in the center of the hole and the soil is poured, lightly tamping. Pepper seedlings are buried in the ground to the same height at which they were in the seedling box. It is strongly impossible to deepen the stalk of pepper, because, unlike tomatoes, it does not form additional roots and can rot.

    Peppers grown in cups are placed in a hole along with an earthy clod. Holes for such seedlings should be wider and deeper so that the clod of earth fits completely into them.

    After planting, the seedlings are watered, the soil is mulched with peat. For tall varieties, it is recommended to immediately install a garter peg next to the bush. It is placed in the ground at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from the stem, so as not to damage the roots.

    What to plant next?

    The desire to grow on own site the maximum number of different crops leads to the fact that the yield of each is reduced. This is due to the fact that not all plants can get along with joint landings. At the same time, there is a combination of crops, which, on the contrary, favorably affects the plants.

    Plants are selected depending on the growing conditions, the similarity of the requirements for the composition of the soil. Ideal neighbors in this regard for pepper are tomatoes. They have similar care conditions, requirements for soil moisture and lighting. Next to the pepper, you can plant kohlrabi (but not other types of cabbage), carrots, onions. Such a neighborhood will not cause any conflicts.

    You should not plant beets and legumes next to pepper. These crops have different requirements for watering and soil composition, so they can interfere with each other.

    Peppers planted in the ground look sluggish and painful for the first week. This phenomenon is associated with poor tolerance of moving plants to a new environment. The roots master the new soil gradually, and soon the plants acquire the appearance corresponding to the culture. In order for seedlings to quickly adapt to external environment, in the early days it must be shaded.

    The first watering of the planted seedlings is carried out on the third - fourth day. Waterlogging the soil in the early days is not desirable, since the roots are not yet able to absorb water and may begin to rot. Two weeks after planting, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out.

    If the seedlings have reached a height of 20-25 centimeters, the crown is removed from it. This technique causes the growth of new lateral shoots, on which the color is formed, and then the fruits.