Marking the ceiling tiles diagonally. Diagonal ceiling tiles. Marking ceilings before the sticker

Ceiling tiles are a great solution for those who don't want to deal with complex and time-consuming repairs as they are easy to use, functional and have a good maintenance factor. It is very valuable to know some practical advice, which you will inevitably encounter when decorating the ceiling with tiles with your own hands.

Ceiling tiles serve as a good finishing material and are appropriate in almost any room - living rooms, kitchens, corridors and even bathrooms. You have chosen the right color and size of the product, and the question is how to glue it correctly ceiling tiles diagonally?

What tools and glue to choose? Below you will read detailed guide for finishing work with tiles.

Choosing glue

We start, as usual, with the purchase the right materials so that later at the last moment you don’t realize that something was missing, something was missed and we will create conditions in which it will be easy and fast to work.

Mounting adhesive is represented on the market by many companies that specialize in the manufacture of adhesive masses for specific purposes. We need ceiling tile adhesive, so it's better to buy the most popular type - "TITAN Wild".

Choosing a tile

The adhesive has good performance and does not pose a threat to humans, made from natural high-tech raw materials. Affordable cost, fast sticking and quality of work are significant qualities when choosing an adhesive.

Ceiling tiles - a high-quality and inexpensive solution

Before we start gluing the tiles on the ceiling diagonally, first of all we will choose the right one, depending on the type of our room and its design solution. Most cheap option- polystyrene tiles.

By purchasing a tile from this material, you get:

Safety;
Versatility;
Ease of installation and weight;
The minimum thickness is no more than 10 mm.

Such tiles are durable and easy to use, but the coating is difficult to wash and accumulates dust..

Polystyrene tiles are available in three types:

Pressed;
Injection;
extruded.

Pressed tile is the most affordable material today, but the least durable. Injection tiles easily creates the impression of a seamless ceiling, and also copes with noise and heat insulation.

Extruded tiles are the most durable and are coated special film that can be washed, vacuumed or made wet cleaning. The range of colors among polystyrene boards is very rich - how to choose the right color?

Depending on the premises construction stores offer a wide range of textures and patterns.

Tiles are produced white color, but:

You can draw a picture on it;
Paint with special paint;
Pick up an imitation of wood, fabric or wood.

The decorative properties of the tiles are rich and suitable for any kind of premises.

Before you glue the tiles diagonally, you can watch a short video clip about the installation process.

Finishing work

Agree, not everyone is satisfied with pasting with plates exactly, parallel to the walls, and I want something new.

To do this, people resort to various design solutions, for example:

Tiles laid diagonally;
Non-standard masonry;
Combination of types;
Combination different colors plates, etc.

We will look at how to stick tiles on the ceiling diagonally and thereby kill two birds with one stone - the room will noticeably change, and you will practice on your own.

Keep in mind that ceiling tiles are rarely glued to whitewash!

Ceiling markings

In both cases of masonry, the ceiling tiles are glued in the same way, but the markings are of particular importance - even luggage will depend on this condition. In order for the tile to lay flat, we start marking from the middle of the ceiling. Usually there is a chandelier hanging there, but you may not have it:

We draw four lines from the midpoint to the corners of the room
Divide the four corners in half and get 450.

Thus, these lines will become the main reference point in pasting the ceiling with tiles, and the installation will shift by 450 relative to the walls.

Advice! It should be taken into account that when choosing a tile, it is better to be guided by the size of the room where the repair is supposed to be. It is not always wise to use non-standard masonry, but in any case, you need to know how to glue tiles diagonally in a large room.

Work process

The ceiling is marked, the glue is bought, the time is right for the installation of tiles. The most important thing is to start, and then things will go pretty quickly. We always start work from the center, since we will have to cut the tiles along the edges of the room and dock them relative to the walls.

For this :

We apply glue in a thin layer along the edges and a drop in the center, you don’t need to smear anything!
Glue four ceiling tiles exactly in the center of the ceiling;
After 3 minutes, gently fix in place and press;
Hold for 15 seconds until the tile is firmly attached to the ceiling;
In the same way we glue the second tile, etc.

Tiles that are on the edge can be carefully cut with a knife or cutter and docked with the wall, choosing the right size. Try to save money by cutting out the right pieces from one tile, and remember to remove the adhesive from the surface of the tile so that it does not dry out and spoil the surface.

Surprised at how quickly you can get the job done? We did not reinvent the wheel and did not recommend anything extra, simplifying the process.

How to glue tiles diagonally without joints? This usually depends on the choice of tiles, most of them have slightly rounded edges. Large gaps should be sealed with an acrylic based sealant.

You can give the room a finished look and make an edging with a ceiling plinth. After simple manipulations, your ceiling will turn into a neat whole canvas. We successfully hid the irregularities and imperfections of the surface of the main ceiling and significantly saved on finishing works both money and time.

By the way, the tile can be easily dismantled. How? Due to the fact that we applied the glue in a thin layer.

You will need:

Spatula with a hard blade;
Ladder.

Dismantling occurs according to the principle of scraping the tiles from the ceiling and the places where the adhesive mass is applied. If you are preparing the ceiling for pasting or painting, then the whitewash itself should also be removed.

After that, the ceiling is covered with a reinforcing primer using a roller or brush. What if the tile was not glued by you?

Attention! Beware of careless dismantling, not all installers use mastics and quality glue, so the edges can simply break off and even cut you! Cheap glue solidifies and becomes hard.

The question of how to glue the ceiling tiles diagonally can be considered permitted! In conclusion, I would like to note that for perfectly glued tiles, you should wash your hands more often in order to avoid gray prints and excess glue on the surface of the tiles.

You may even decide to paint it some color or install a baseboard - it's up to you!

For work we need the following tools: long (at least 50 cm), preferably a metal ruler, a stationery knife and a simple pencil.

It is better to start the ceiling tile sticker from the center of the room, more precisely from the chandelier. Under the chandelier, we will have a junction of four central tiles. Of course, you can make it so that it is in the center of a separate tile, but this already depends on the pattern on the tile. If the pattern is the same as in the first photo below, then it is better to place the chandelier in the center of the tile. If the drawing is the same as in the photo at the end of the article, or there is no drawing at all, then the chandelier will look better on the crosshairs of the four central tiles.

Why do we start from the center? At the edges of the room, in any case, the tile will not be entirely, it will have to be cut off. And if you start the sticker from the corner, then on two walls the tiles will be entirely, and on two - trimmings. Asymmetrical. Sometimes asymmetry looks even better, but in our case it will look ugly.

To enlarge, click on the photo

Here, the center of the room is chosen as the starting point. Due to this, the tile is slightly offset relative to the chandelier, which, if you look closely, does not look very nice. Although you can not look closely.

Ceiling markings for ceiling tiles

Sticker tiles diagonally - this is by no means "from corner to corner." Tiles should lie at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls. The room is most often oblong, and if you draw a line "from corner to corner", then the angle of this line to the wall will be far from 45 degrees.

I somehow unknowingly drew a line "from corner to corner" and tried glue tiles. Having pasted a few pieces, he was horrified and tore them all off.

Naturally, a protractor for finding right angle we will not use. This is done much easier. First, remove the chandelier and find a point in its very center (point A). From this point we measure the distance to the nearest wall (distance C), trying to maintain a right angle (deviation plus or minus 1 cm is not critical). Then the same distance (distance C) set aside from the corner of the room to the wall farthest from the chandelier (we find the point B, see figure).

Now from the point B draw a line to the center of the chandelier. You can do this this way: pull a twine between two points (an assistant will be required) and put a few points on the ceiling with a pencil so that there is enough ruler length between them. After that, consistently draw a line along the ruler. Everything, our markup is ready.

Ceiling preparation

Before you begin to work on the sticker of the ceiling tiles, you need to prepare. We mean that we have a fairly even whitewashed ceiling.

First, let's get rid of the dust. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner. Then we apply one or two coats of primer to the ceiling. I usually prime twice, but a single primer will be enough. Once the primer is dry, you can start tiling.

Ceiling tile sticker

For ceiling tiles, I usually use TITAN ceiling adhesive. It is inexpensive and of good quality.

The glue is applied along the perimeter of the tile with a strip of 2-3 cm, and a spot is made in the center with a diameter of 10 cm. It is convenient to apply the glue as follows: slightly evenly pressing on the bottle, at the same time smear it with a valve in small circular motions. It is desirable that there are no places not covered by glue along the edges of the tile.

After applying the adhesive to the tile, allow it to dry for a couple of minutes, after which the tile can be glued.

It is very important to stick the first four tiles evenly. But it is even more important to stick the first tile evenly. To do this, set one corner of the tile as accurately as possible to the point A, while the opposite angle must exactly coincide with the line drawn by us.

After the tile has been applied, it should be held for a minute, pressing it against the ceiling. You can press the tiles with light strokes using a soft cloth.

Now glue the remaining three tiles. It should be noted, however, that some manufacturers ceiling tiles make the corners slightly rounded. This is imperceptible to the eye, however, if this is not taken into account, it will turn out uneven. Therefore, we try on each next tile not in one of the corners, but completely along the edge of the tile.

For the same reason, it is better to glue the remaining three central tiles at the same time, well, or one immediately after the other so that you can correct their position relative to each other on the spot. Otherwise, the last of the four tiles may either not fit into the space allotted for it, or, conversely, there will be too much gap between the tiles.

Everything, the beginning is necessary, further it will be easier. The same way glue the rest of the tiles around the central ones. It is better to glue all the whole tiles first, and then those that need to be cut (along the perimeter of the room). The edge, cut tiles do not have to fit too closely to the wall. Ceiling plinth, whose width is 3.5 cm, will hide small flaws.

At ceiling tile sticker it is often necessary to bypass . To do this, a groove is cut in the tile with a width of a couple of millimeters less than the diameter of the pipe. This is done so that there is no gap between the tile and the pipe. The groove must be rounded at the end (under the pipe).

After gluing the tiles, a small piece of tile is glued into the remaining space between the pipe and the wall. If the distance between the pipe and the wall allows you to glue the plinth there, then this piece is not necessary to glue.

Installation ceiling plinth

Glue ceiling molding quite simple, but here you need to take into account some nuances.

Glue can be used the same - TITANIUM. Glue is applied in the same way as on the tile - in circular motions over the entire contact surface. After applying the glue, we wait a couple of minutes, and put the plinth in the right place, press it until it is fixed.

When sticking a plinth, you should not forget about the drawing on it, if it is, of course. The drawing needs to match. Often a plinth comes across, which by mistake can be glued “upside down” (such is the pattern on it), and here you need to be careful.

The hardest thing about ceiling plinth installation are internal and outside corners. In order not to create unnecessary problems with the corners, I recommend using special corner elements. They can be both simple, shaped like a plinth, and made in the form of decoration.

Application corner elements allows you not to suffer with cutting a complex angle on the plinth. Usually the shape of the corner elements is such that the plinth is glued to them with even factory (or also trimmed) ends.

And the last tip: if you do not want the freshly pasted white to be covered with gray spots, wash your hands often in the process of pasting it. If not after each glued tile, then after three or four for sure. And keep the cloth clean if you use it to press ceiling tiles or baseboards.

Great importance is attached to the decoration of the ceiling, as it is completely open area in the interior. You can offer beautifully, elegantly decorate it with ceiling tiles. Let's get acquainted how to stick a ceiling tile on a diagonal.

Geometrically, the sides of a room are not always perfectly parallel. The diagonal arrangement of elements on the ceiling surface visually hides this.

Today's building materials market is presented in a huge assortment of design ceilings. It can be different kinds installation of ceiling systems or more affordable materials.

Not everyone can install elite stretch ceiling. And an inexpensive tile will help out many. Try sticking ceiling tiles with your own hands. The main thing is to be careful when calculating and careful when pasting. In addition to the aesthetic side, it provides better soundproofing, which is important in apartments of multi-storey buildings.

If there are small cracks, irregularities on the surface, then the tile finish will hide them, visually the room will become larger. You can stick it on suspended structure(from mineral fiber, plasterboard, acoustic version).

The material of ceiling tiles can be made of wood, metal, mirror, which brings an interesting element to the interior. The seamless option gives the surface solidity. We will consider the most common option, the cheapest and most used foam tile products.

Before we learn how to stick a ceiling tile diagonally, we will briefly consider its types depending on the production technology and composition.

Types of ceiling tiles

Injection tiles - during their production, the initial components are exposed to high temperatures during the technological process. In this case, the output is a thicker product, which allows you to give it a more voluminous, deep relief.
This is a seamless model that creates a single picture, without seams, as when pasting individual elements. It has correct geometry, improved sound insulation characteristics, it can be painted with water-dispersed paints, unpretentious in care.
Extruded tiles are among the most durable products of this type. Manufactured by pressing polystyrene strips. It is smooth or laminated, which makes it possible to care for it using water with cleaning solutions. Thanks to slightly concave edges, it successfully hides the flaws of the plane.
Stamped tiles are the cheapest products and strength characteristics they have the lowest. They are produced by pressing, fragile, which requires delicate handling. However, if you glue, paint the ceiling tiles with high quality, they look quite good, they can be wiped with a sponge.

Which ceiling tile is better to choose - it's up to each of you. Pasting is carried out according to one technology, but depends on the chosen method. Hence the different surface markings.

Ceiling preparation

First of all, clean it from the previous coating. Remove old wallpaper, a layer of whitewash, paint, other coatings. If the overlap has irregularities, then level it with putty.

The surface must be even so that the tiles stick well, there are no gaps between the elements. If the surface is even, but there are cracks, small chips, other damage on it, seal them with putty, prime them.

You can lay the tiles parallel to the walls. Today we will analyze how to stick the ceiling tiles diagonally. This is dictated mainly when there is a curvature of the walls.

When laying along the walls, this nuance will be immediately noticeable, while the diagonal arrangement will smooth out all the bumps. The same can be said if the room is of the wrong configuration. And for aesthetic reasons, the diagonal method looks very advantageous in the interior.

Correctly calculate required amount material. The best option it will be if you sketch and lay the tiles to size on paper to scale. Or take the ceiling (floor) area plus 15-20% as the initial amount (with diagonal way sticker material goes a little more).

All tiles should be checked upon purchase for even edges, loose structure, pattern matching. Items must be from the same batch. Let the tile after the acquisition get used to the future conditions of its residence a little. It will take indicators of humidity, room temperature, so that after installation its geometry does not change, there is no deformation.

Ceiling markings

You need to find the center of the room - the sticker will be drawn from it. If the lamp (chandelier) located in the room is not located in the middle, then we will markup from the location of the chandelier.

In any scenario, the center is determined by dividing the ceiling with two perpendicular lines coming from the middle opposite walls. It turns out four rectangles or squares.

For safety net, beginners can additionally beat off the lines dividing the right angle of each rectangle in half. A plane is puffed up, divided into eight parts with equal angles of 45 degrees.

Diagonal ceiling tile sticker

Consider the process itself, how to stick a ceiling tile diagonally. It differs from the sticker parallel to the walls with markings, the direction of the corners of the tiles, and a slightly higher consumption of material.

For work, select the appropriate adhesive composition, there are enough of them in stock. It should not contain a solvent (for foam tiles). Often used are "Liquid nails", "Eco - carries", "Moment - installation", "Titan", "Dragon", other compositions. Many use a special mastic or prepare the adhesive mass themselves by mixing putty with PVA.

Apply glue dotted along the edges of the tiles plus, connecting opposite corners diagonally or dotted along the entire reverse side - it all depends on the composition chosen, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

First glue along the axes

The first tile should be placed at the intersection of the axes so that its corners coincide with the marking lines. Squeeze it and hold it for a while. Next, you need to stick the next tile along the marking line, joining the corner of the first with the next.

From the axes you conduct further pasting

According to this principle, the label is carried out diagonally along all guide lines. It remains to fill the gaps between the tiles laid along the guides. And so the entire surface. From time to time, check the correct position of the elements relative to the markup.

When you come to the walls, then in place, cut out the extensions and glue them. Remove the adhesive composition that has come out with a sponge. If small cracks have formed somewhere, then you can putty them with putty, seal them with sealant.

Having eliminated drafts, let the tile dry well, frame it with a baguette, then you can proceed to painting it. We have considered the main steps on how to stick a ceiling tile diagonally. It remains to choose the tiles you like and decorate your interior with it.

Today, when repairing the ceiling, all kinds of Construction Materials, which differ in design, installation method, price. Ceiling tiles can be considered one of the most versatile as they are easy to install with your own hands and fit perfectly into interiors of different styles.

Several technologies are used to produce the material. The resulting plates differ in characteristics and have certain advantages and disadvantages.

Pressed products

Styrofoam blocks serve as raw material for the production of white plates with a thickness of 5-8 mm. This finishing material is the cheapest and most popular. The main advantage of the product is its price.
Among the shortcomings, one can single out: fragility, complexity of processing (it is difficult to get a smooth edge when cutting). Due to the porous structure, dirt is easily absorbed and the surface is practically impossible to wash.

injection technology

Thanks to high-temperature processing, tiles with a thickness of 9-14 mm are obtained, having the correct geometric shape and deep clear drawing. Advantages: excellent strength, environmental friendliness, does not burn, good thermal insulation properties.
If, during installation, a tight joint of elements is ensured, then a visual effect decorative surface"seamless". The tile is produced only in white color, but it can be painted.
A significant disadvantage is the high price.

Extruded tiles

In the manufacture of products, the pressing method is used, followed by coloring of the elements or coating with a special film. Distinctive feature material - a dense structure, due to which the effect of a smooth surface appears.
Advantages of products: wet cleaning can be used, excellent dust and water repellency, recoverability after deformation, in case of cutting, a smooth edge is obtained.
Since the tile is slightly bent around the perimeter, small surface defects can be masked when gluing. Products are patterned and multi-colored. It is not recommended to repaint them yourself. The high price can be considered the only negative. According to the type of surface, several types of plates are distinguished:
laminated products are presented in a wide range of colors.
Thanks to lamination, the material has moisture resistance, strength, resistance to fading;
mirror tile is rather design option. It is made of plastic coated with a mirror layer and can be square or rectangular. Looks great in small rooms, as it visually expands the space;

seamless products due to smooth edges without edging allow you to create inconspicuous joints during installation. Differs in an acceptable price, heat and moisture resistance, good insulating qualities, practicality (coloring is possible).

The shape of the plate is square, rectangular, polygonal and wavy. Standard sizes products: 50x50 cm, 30x30 cm, 100x16.5 cm.

Materials and tools

To buy the right amount of tiles, you need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling, the size of the product and their number in the package. It should be borne in mind that ordinary pressed tiles are hygroscopic, so it is not recommended to use them to decorate the ceiling in the bathroom.

Extruded plates are quite suitable for finishing the kitchen and bathroom, as their surface has the desired characteristics and is easy to clean with water with a little detergent. To fix the tiles, you can use different types adhesive: "Titanium" refers to universal type, has a viscous consistency, does not immediately seize and therefore for some time the plates will have to be pressed tightly against the ceiling. Advantage - low price;
"Moment" - quickly grabs, but for comfortable use you need a construction pistol. It costs a little more than analogues, but it is well deserved.
For installation work no special construction equipment required. To make a quality repair, the following set of tools is enough: sharp knife, step ladder, paint cord, corner, nails (self-tapping screws) for fixing the cord, tiles, glue.

Ceiling preparation

In order for the finish to look flawless, it is necessary maximum attention pay attention to surface quality. Naturally, some defects can be masked, but serious flaws or an old coating can greatly spoil the finished result.
First of all, the old finish is removed: they clean off the paint, wash off the whitewash or tear off the wallpaper. Serious imperfections in the form of depressions or cracks are sealed with plaster or reinforcing tape.
The entire surface must be primed with a deep penetration compound. This will prevent the occurrence of dampness and the development of microorganisms. If the ceiling has a non-uniform shade (there are dark spots), then it is desirable to cover it with a layer of white water-based paint before gluing the ceiling tiles.

Pasting stages

Tiling is a simple process if the surface is well leveled and properly marked. Such repairs do not require significant moral and physical costs.

Stream Markup

This stage determines the quality of the entire repair, so you need to take it very carefully. For work you will need: fasteners (nails, screws), paint cord.
Before gluing the ceiling tiles diagonally, the surface is marked.
Cords are fixed in the corners of the room and beat off. The intersection point of the diagonals defines the center of the ceiling. From the center are perpendicular to the sides. It is these perpendicular lines that will serve as guidelines when sticking the material.

tile sticker

It is necessary to start the process of laying the plates from the center, since individual elements will have to be cut along the edges of the ceiling.
Glue is applied along the perimeter of the tile in the form of separate drops and one glue point is put in the center. Smearing the composition is not required. The square is placed on the ceiling so that its corners lie on perpendicular lines. The element is pressed tightly against the surface and kept under slight pressure for about 15 seconds. This time is enough for the tile to stick firmly to the ceiling.
The next four elements are located on the axes so that one corner touches the corner of the central tile, and the diametrically opposite lies on the intended line. Thus, the squares are first attached along the perpendicular lines.
The chandelier is removed for the duration of the work and the wires are de-energized. On the plate, which is glued at the location of the chandelier, a place is planned for the ceiling. A hole of a slightly smaller diameter is carefully cut out. The wires are pulled into the hole and then the tiles are tightly glued.

If the chandelier cannot be removed, then the plate must be cut. To do this, a shallow incision is made on its back side, and the tile is carefully broken. A hole is cut out for the ceiling and pieces of material are glued to the ceiling. It is noteworthy that the fault line will be invisible.

The rest of the ceiling surface is sequentially glued with tiles, and you must always move from the center of the surface to the walls. Along the borders of the ceiling, you will have to glue individual elements, specially cut. If you use a ruler and a knife, you can make several parts from one plate.

Glue ceiling is one of the most inexpensive and common types of ceiling finishes. He earned popularity due to the excellent price-quality ratio and the ease of installation, which almost anyone can handle with their own hands. The adhesive ceiling allows you to mask many of the flaws in the surface of the base ceiling. However, when sticking ceiling tiles, you need to observe some nuances. In this article, we will analyze how to properly glue the ceiling tiles.

How to choose a tile

There are several types of tiles for adhesive ceilings. It is most often produced from polyvinyl chloride (or PVC), expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), etc. The most common and economical - expanded polystyrene tiles.

According to the type of manufacture, it is divided into pressed, injection and extruded.

Pressed is the cheapest and the lowest quality - with pronounced polystyrene grains, quite fragile and, as a rule, white, which causes its strong soiling (at the same time, it is practically impossible to clean). Such a tile after the sticker needs to be painted in order to avoid rapid contamination.
Injection and extruded tiles are made using a more sophisticated technology. Its cost, as well as quality, is much higher than pressed. She happens different colors and textures.
The most expensive is laminated tiles that do not need to be painted and imitate wood, marble, gypsum, etc. Our construction market currently has enough big choice adhesive ceilings of any kind with a huge variety of textures and decorative ornaments.

What type of tiles to choose? depends entirely on your taste and wallet. The required number of tiles can be easily calculated by measuring the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling. It should be borne in mind that in any case they will not lie exactly against the walls, and they will have to be cut off.

You also need to take into account the fact that polystyrene foam is very brittle material and some tiles may be accidentally damaged during installation. Therefore, their number must be taken with a margin of 10 - 20% of the ceiling area.

You can glue the ceiling tiles, depending on your design decision, either parallel to the wall or diagonally.

How to choose glue

Ceiling tiles - pretty light material, therefore, it does not require particularly strong adhesives - almost any universal adhesive will do. However, there are special formulations designed for adhesive ceilings. It should also be taken into account that not every adhesive is suitable for ceilings - for example, many formulations contain a solvent that gives the adhesive a liquid consistency. As it evaporates, the adhesive hardens.

So, this solvent, hitting the polystyrene foam, can cause its deformation or “burn” a hole in it - it simply dissolves the polystyrene foam. Also, not every glue is suitable for sticking a ceiling on a wooden or concrete surface. Ceiling tiles, like wallpaper, do not like excessive drafts and temperature changes when applied.

The surface of the base ceiling will first need to be cleaned of peeling plaster, whitewash or paint with a spatula or a metal brush. It is better to moisten the whitewashed ceiling before pasting with a spray gun to remove excess dust, let it dry, and only after that start gluing the tiles. An even better effect can be achieved by treating the ceiling with a primer.

Another nuance - if the base ceiling has too noticeable drops or irregularities, then in this case the adhesive ceiling will only emphasize them with its broken seams. In this case, it is recommended to pre-level the ceiling with plaster, putty, or, in general, abandon the adhesive ceiling in favor of suspended ceilings - plasterboard, stretch, rack, etc.

Polymer based adhesives

The most preferred of the common adhesive compositions, according to experts, is the glue "Titan". It is odorless, fairly thick and hardens quickly. The tile pasted on the "Titan" does not need a long fixation - just press the tile to the ceiling. In addition, "Titan" has good adhesion (penetration deep into the glued objects), which determines its good holding qualities.

Similar to "Titan" glue "Master", also used for stickers on ceilings, the worst quality. Firstly, it has a sharp chemical smell - therefore, when working with it, it is necessary to intensively ventilate the room. Secondly, it dries much more slowly. In addition to these two, the most common types, there are many other types of polymer adhesives, both domestic and foreign. When choosing a good polymer adhesive, it is best to focus on its consistency (it should be thick enough) and price. Although a high price is not yet a 100% indicator of quality.

All kinds of liquid nails also well suited for mounting glued ceilings. For example, "Installation moment". If you need to use ceiling tiles to hide some serious defect in the ceiling, then liquid nails will help best. With their help, you can create a layer of glue of the desired thickness to create a flat surface of the mounted adhesive ceiling.

But at the same time, one should not forget that the composition of liquid nails often includes a solvent that is incompatible with polystyrene foam. Liquid nails should be chosen better than white - a dark (gray) color when sticking a thin or porous tile will shine through it with dark stripes and spots. Liquid nails are best applied in dots along the perimeter of the tile and along its diagonals.

PVA

PVA glue and compounds similar to it (for example, bustilat) may also be suitable for installation. However, due to the fact that they have a more liquid consistency, they will have to be applied not pointwise, but in wide stripes, or even completely over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe tile. As a result, the consumption of PVA will be much greater. Another minus of PVA is that it dries for a rather long time. Plus - it has no odors and is absolutely harmless in contact with it.

Finishing putty

Acrylic finishing putty can also be used as an adhesive. It sticks pretty well to any surface, including concrete ceilings and expanded polystyrene, and, therefore, it will be able to hold the ceiling tiles quite reliably. As can be seen from the above, polystyrene foam tiles are very unpretentious to the type of glue (if it does not contain a solvent).

Marking ceilings before the sticker

Before proceeding with the installation of the adhesive ceiling, it is necessary to mark the ceiling. If the room is exactly rectangular in shape, then it is recommended to stick the ceiling tiles parallel to the walls. If the room is irregular in shape, then in this case it is recommended to glue the tiles diagonally - so the "irregularity" of the room's shapes will be less noticeable, plus the diagonal sticker will visually increase the size of the room.

Starting to mark the ceiling, you will need to initially find the center of the room. In the event that the room is rectangular, then it will be enough to draw two diagonals along the ceiling - where they intersect, and there will be a center.
In the case when a chandelier is suspended in the middle of the room, you don’t have to look for the center of the ceiling - in any case, the chandelier will visually be the center of the room. Even if it is offset relative to the geometric center of the ceiling. Both when sticking parallel and when sticking diagonally, in the place where it is attached electrical wire chandeliers, the first four tiles of the ceilings to be mounted will converge at the corners. Their corners will need to be cut slightly to avoid contact with the wire. Then these corners will be closed by a chandelier and will not be visible.
Before gluing them, you need to divide the ceiling into four parts by drawing two perpendicular stripes passing through the geometric center of the room or through the place where the chandelier is attached.
Then we glue the first four tiles around the center, and already from them we begin to fill in each of the four squares of the ceiling, based on the drawn lines. As lines, you can use a stretched thread or fishing line). When sticking the tiles, it is necessary to ensure that they are tightly pressed against each other, and the corners of adjacent tiles meet butt-to-butt. This is necessary in order to prevent a “run-up” and, as a result, uneven seams and a shift in the overall pattern of the ceilings.

Diagonal sticker

If you decide to glue the tiles diagonally, then marking will be somewhat more difficult. Consider how to glue the ceiling tiles in this case.

If the room has the correct rectangular shape, then it will be enough just to draw the diagonals from corner to corner, and start the sticker also from the center of their intersection.
If the room has irregular shape or you decide to choose a chandelier offset to one of the walls as the center, then you will first have to divide the ceiling into four squares with lines parallel to the walls (or one, even wall).
Then we break the right angles of each such square at the place of their joining in half with the help of a protractor or a joiner's square. We get diagonal angles of 45 degrees and draw new lines along them, along which we begin to stick tiles. When gluing diagonally at the junction with the walls, more scraps will be obtained, so the tiles will need to be purchased with a larger margin than with the gluing method parallel to the walls.

We dismantled in in general terms how to glue ceiling tiles, and, as you can see, there is nothing complicated about it. It is enough to have basic skills in geometry and make a little effort so that your glued ceiling becomes a real decoration of the apartment.