How to make hanging gates with your own hands according to the drawings. DIY hanging gates: drawings, design of hanging gates DIY hanging gates

Previously, hanging gates were more used in various industrial buildings and buildings. Gates with two leaves were also extremely popular. As a rule, such gates were created on the basis of wood or metal. Modern technologies allow you to find more convenient and profitable solutions. Now you can easily install hanging gates for your garage or suburban area.

The principle of operation of hanging gates is in many ways similar to the principle of operation, but the guide is attached to the top beam. The entire load is distributed evenly over the top, which is the most reliable and durable.

All suspension mechanism created using plastic and metal. The material used is sheet. The drive of these gates can be either manual or automatic.

industrial hanging gates

A big advantage of hanging sliding gates, undoubtedly, is a saving of space at the entrance to a garage or hangar. Especially if it is located in close proximity to the roadway;
You no longer need to clear the area of snow. Great time savings and no unnecessary inconvenience;
Wind resistance;
The structure can be installed without concrete base, but only if the support pillars are sufficiently strong and reliable;
Durability of the mechanism.

What is needed for installation?

Guide. Its length should be twice the width of the gate;
Square pipe 4x4 cm;
Square pipe 2x2 cm;
Corrugated sheeting from which we will create a canvas;
Square pipe 12x12 cm, from which we will create the top beam;
Equipment for creating an automatic drive (if needed);
Welding machine;
Lock;
Angle grinder;
Metal primer and paint.

Let's get to work

1. Preparing the frame

The gate requires an external and internal frame s. For the external structure, metal pipes with a square cross-section measuring 40x40 mm are used, welding them together in such a way that water does not penetrate into the frame. The internal frame is made of 20x20 mm pipes. It is aligned along one of the edges or in the center and welded to the outside. Then you need to strengthen it with an additional 20x20 pipe (see figure below). After this, you need to clean the frame from rusty coating, prime and paint special paint for metal surfaces.

It is important that the door leaf (leaf) is wider than the opening itself by approximately 200 mm on each side, so that there are no gaps on the sides.

frame reinforcement

2. Installation of the canvas and installation of the lock.

The canvas is secured with rivets or using self-tapping screws (see figure above). If a sheet of corrugated sheeting is selected, then the height of its wave should not exceed 10 mm, otherwise the sheet will protrude beyond the frame. A sheet of C8 or C10 is best. You can see the sizes. You also need to provide a place to secure the lock. If the lock is mortise, then the lock itself can be cut into the stationary part of the gate, and the locking plate can be welded to the frame. If there is a simple padlock, then you can simply weld a loop to the frame and attach the same one to the fence post (see photo).

2 lock options. Mounted and mortise

3. Installation of guide and additional elements

The metal guide is fixed to the upper beam of the fixed gate frame using brackets or welding; its working part should “look” down. Roller supports (carts) are fixed on both sides of the frame. They are inserted into the guide, and after that the gate is suspended and the plugs are installed.

guide mounting options

The automation is installed as desired, and its connection is carried out in accordance with the recommendations in the instructions. The final stage is installing the lock and handle for opening. The gate is ready.

Option with homemade rollers and an opening truss (watch the video):

Search better design Such an obligatory fencing element as a gate has led to the emergence of several types, including one of the most convenient to use options, called hanging gates. This so-called modification sliding gates has become widespread for use in private construction for arranging the entrance to the territory of a house or cottage, and for industrial applications, where hanging gates are used to enter protected areas, protect warehouses and hangars.

The principle of installing suspended sliding gates is quite simple both in design and implementation. The door leaf is secured by hanging it on a supporting beam, the height of which is the height of the gate and limits the maximum height of the transport allowed through. Roller trolleys, which Basic structure The hanging gate leaves rest on the beam, ensure their free rolling along the beam and easy opening and closing.

For the manufacture of hanging gates, any materials used for the manufacture of these protective structures can be used, which can consist of either one leaf or two: metal carcass The frame of the canvas can be sheathed with metal, profiled sheets, or protected by a decorative grille.

Modern hanging sliding gates can be divided according to design features into:

Hanging gates with one or two leaves, which can move in one or different directions;
Design with manual drive when the gate is opened and closed manually. Typically used where the gates are used infrequently and they have a low door leaf weight.
Electrically driven suspended sliding gates with remote electronic or electric control, which allows for comfortable passage.

Among the disadvantages of this design is the limitation maximum height vehicle with a supporting beam and requirements for the availability of free space for rolling back the gate along the fence or wall. However, this space is significantly smaller in area than that which should be kept unoccupied when in use swing gates.

Accordingly, when installing such a gate system, you will save yourself from the need to clear large area from the snow just to be able to open the gate. To ensure free opening of hanging gates, it is enough to clear the narrow space along the fence under the supporting beam.

To ensure that gates of this type are reliable and easy to use, their design and installation should be entrusted to specialists with extensive experience in implementing such projects. When you need to install hanging gates, contact the MosKomplekt company, and we will help you install them quickly, efficiently and at the best price.

How to order the production and installation of hanging sliding gates

To install hanging gates at your site to protect the entrance to the territory, warehouse, garage or hangar, contact us for help, and the specialists of the MosKomplekt company:

They will come to your site to take measurements, select automation, and help you decide on the type of cladding;
Will develop project documentation and estimates;
Agree on the final project with the customer;
They will manufacture all the necessary components and purchase the required materials;
They will deliver gate components and materials for their installation to your site;
They will assemble the structure, check and configure the gate automation;
The work will be handed over to the customer with the provision of warranty documents.

Prices for our hanging gates are determined individually after developing the project and calculating the estimate. However, you can check approximate price for the manufacture of structures focusing on average cost of our products, presented in the table.

Height, mm	Opening width, mm/price, rub
Height, mm	3000	4000	5000	6000
2000	98343	117621	136962	156177
3000	114471	136836	159264	181692
4000	130662	156114	181629	207081
5000	146790	175392	203931	232407
6000	162981	194544	226233	257922

When you need high-quality, reliable and functional hanging gates, contact the MosKomplekt company. The experience of our specialists, our own production base, as well as high-quality components will allow you to quickly obtain a protective structure that is optimal in all respects.

Operating principle suspension systems similar to retractable ones. The only difference is that the hanging gate guide is attached not to the side beam, but to the top floor beam. This design, like the sliding one, is created on the basis of simple cantilever fittings, so making it without the help of specialists will not be difficult. After studying this article, you will learn how to make hanging gates with your own hands in your home or country house.

Operating principle of hanging gates

In essence, such gates are a kind of “curtain” that moves along the upper cornice using a system of rollers on which it is suspended. The role of a “curtain” can be one, two or even three doors, which can roll back in one or two directions or even move like elevator doors. Such mechanisms can be operated manually or using electric drives.

Gate leaves can be made of any material: metal, corrugated board, wood, plastic, etc. The only limitation is that they should not be too heavy. Otherwise, you will need to install a very powerful top rail on which they will be suspended.

Hanging gates

The basic principles of trouble-free operation of such devices are:
perfect balancing of the gates: at the slightest misalignment, the gate will open and close with great difficulty;

Correct selection of accessories.

Hanging gates. Installation procedure

1. Before installing the gate, the soil towards which the rollback will be directed is leveled.

2. On both sides of the gate there are vertical supports– metal pipes with a square cross-section, with a diameter of 20-40 mm. Since the upper beam will rest on such supports, the distance from the ground to the top of the support must be such that a car can freely pass through the gate.

3. To install the supports, a hole 120-150 cm deep is dug, into which a metal pipe is lowered, reinforcement is laid, and then the hole is concreted. The space between such a foundation and the soil is filled with crushed stone, while each layer is spilled with water and further compacted.

Concreting support pillars

Advice. To protect against moisture in the upper part metal support metal plugs should be welded or wooden plugs inserted. This will significantly increase the service life of the supports and protect them from rust.

4. Gate supports should be located strictly vertical. In the event of the slightest distortion, the movement of the gate will be difficult or, on the contrary, it will open and close spontaneously. Therefore, when installing supports, their location is carefully verified by the building level.

5. For top hanging beam a bent profile of a special shape is used (see photo). Its cross-section size depends on the weight of the suspended sashes. So, for sashes weighing up to 300 kg, it is enough to purchase a profile of 40x35x2.5 mm. Heavy gates weighing up to 1000 kg will require a more powerful profile measuring 90x75x4.5 mm. At the same time, its deflections are unacceptable.

Profile for the top beam

6. For complete rollback of the sash, the length of such a beam must be 2 times greater than the width of the opening itself. For standard garage doors its length should be 6 m. If necessary, this size can be reduced.

Diagram of a hanging gate

7. To install such a structure, you will need the following fittings:

Two trolleys (cantilever rollers) with a threaded axle;

Four brackets with a screw for fastening the guide;

Stoppers (limiters).

Trolleys with threaded axle

Components and fittings for the manufacture of hanging gates (brackets, hanging beam and cantilever rollers (trolleys))

8. Guide beam it is fixed to the supporting support or the upper part of the building wall using hanging brackets so that its lower working part, along which the rollers will move, faces down.

Advice. If there is a weld in the beam, it may interfere with the free movement of the carriage. In order for the rollers to pass freely along the beam, it can also be positioned so that the seam is on the side.

9. No more than two roller carts will be required for one canvas of any size. The spacing of the carriages depends only on the width of the web. First, their heels (the bases on which the carts are mounted) are cut off, and only then rollers are welded to the sash frame. The gate leaf should slightly overlap the opening (by 20 cm), and the distance between the soil and the door should be at least 5 cm.

10. The door leaf is then inserted using rollers into the upper hanging beam. To limit the movement of the sashes, beams are mounted on both sides along the edges stubs.

Suspended sliding system

11. To avoid swinging the doors during gusts of wind (this is possible when the high altitude gate), at the top and bottom of the gate special limiters. You can purchase them ready-made or simply weld pieces of reinforcement onto the guide slot.

Stopper-limiter

12. If there is automation, it is connected in accordance with the technical documentation and the diagram attached to it.

Advantages and disadvantages of hanging gates

The main features of such structures include:

Sufficient resistance to wind loads;

Less static impact on supports even with significant weight: the load in them is distributed more evenly;

Possibility of covering large openings up to 3 m wide;

Simplicity of design;

Long period of operation;

The movement of standard sliding gates is carried out along the bottom rail, which requires periodic cleaning from dust, dirt and snow accumulations; suspended structures are completely devoid of this drawback;

Significant space savings: unlike swing gates, no free space is required to open and close them; small space along the fence is required only for their rollback;

The gate leaf does not have to be opened to its full width: to pass through, just move the leaf a little.

Perhaps the only one disadvantage Such devices are limited by space at the top, preventing the passage of large vehicles.

Video: DIY hanging gates

Sliding or sliding gates are a complex mechanism, but nevertheless, due to their convenience, they have become quite widely used both at industrial facilities and in private households. There are a lot of manufacturers who make ready-made gates and components for them, qualified work force will carry out the installation quickly and competently, but those who want to save money and apply creative energy in business will be interested in installing sliding gates with their own hands. Moreover, this is quite possible.

Types of sliding gates

There are sliding gates different designs, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's mark them.

Hanging sliding gates

These gates were most often used at the entrances of enterprises and other protected areas. At a considerable height to allow entry freight transport, a metal beam was mounted, but no longer Not The gate leaf was suspended using roller trolleys.

Hanging gates - reliable, but material-intensive

This design is quite reliable, and such gates, created more than 50 years ago, still work, but are now rarely used for two reasons:

The upper beam still limits the dimensions of the gate opening.
This design is very material-intensive and what was allowed during the USSR at the then metal prices is simply unacceptable now.

Sliding gates on rails

This is the most simple design sliding gates and theoretically the most reliable. The door leaf, standing on rollers, rides on a special rail located on the surface. The gate is still supported at one upper point in the place where the gate goes when opened. Such gates are best used where the area is periodically and constantly cleaned, which in Russian conditions often unattainable. Normal snowfall will easily block the operation of such gates, and it can be very difficult to get them to work again.

A significant advantage of such gates is that in order to open they need to go behind the fence exactly the width of the opening, and this, in conditions of limited space, can be a determining factor for making a decision in favor of such a design.

Cantilever sliding gates

In order for the gates to have no size restrictions at the top and to avoid contact with the ground rail, cantilever sliding (sliding) gates were invented. This one complex design gate, but these “sacrifices” are absolutely justified. The leaf of such gates does not have contact with the surface, but is suspended on cantilever roller blocks using a guide beam. Most often, such a beam and roller blocks are located at the bottom of the gate.

There are cases when the guide beam and roller blocks can be located in the middle or even on top of the door leaf. This may be justified when the cantilever units can be hung on the main wall of the building or there are any building structures or structures that can withstand the loads from the door leaf. Otherwise, you will have to specially construct a power structure for the gate, which is not always profitable.

That is why in most cases, cantilever sliding gates with a bottom position are used load-bearing beam.

Prices for sliding gates

Sliding gates

Description of the design and operation of cantilever gates

A schematic diagram of a sliding gate with a lower console position can be seen in the figure.

The door leaf is mounted on a frame (1) made of profile metal pipe. A supporting beam (2) is welded to the frame, which has a special profile, into which the roller carriages (3) fit tightly. In this case, the beam can move together with the gate left and right along the carriages, ensuring the opening and closing of the gate. Obviously, the beam and roller carriages bear the greatest load, especially when they close or fully open the gate. In order to unload the gate when completely closed, an end unloading roller (4) is used, which enters and rests against the lower catcher (5). In another part of the gate, to fix the door leaf when fully open, they can also use an end roller with a catch stop, but it is not visible in this diagram.

To ensure that the gate does not have lateral swings, there is a guide with rollers (7) and an upper catcher (6), which fixes the door in the closed state. To prevent dirt and foreign objects from getting into the inside of the beam, plugs (8) are used. The entire gate structure is mounted on three main power elements: a support post (9), a counter post (10) and a foundation for roller carriages (11). If the site already has sufficiently strong gate supports (brick, concrete or metal), then they can be used as support and response posts, and if not, then they will have to be built separately from a profile metal pipe. In any case, the foundation for the console will have to be built separately.

In sliding gates, an electric drive is quite easily implemented, which is fixed between the roller carriages. To set the blade in motion, a toothed rack is attached to its side surface. The drive is equipped with a control unit, as well as various devices, ensuring safety.

Advantages of cantilever sliding gates

Cantilever-type sliding gates have a number of advantages:

Such gates do not have detachable leaves and therefore do not reduce the usable area of the territory, and if the gate is accidentally opened, there is no danger of damaging the vehicle standing in front of it.
The gate opening has no lower or upper restrictions on dimensions.
Abundant ones do not interfere with the operation of the cantilever gates, since the leaf is hung at a distance of about 10 cm above the ground surface.
All rolling elements that ensure the operation of the gate are located inside the beam, and therefore are not affected by weather factors. Even a child can set the gate in motion, thanks to its thoughtful design and low friction.
The powerful foundation of the console and a well-thought-out system for holding the door leaf in a vertical position allow such doors to withstand heavy wind loads.
Sliding gates are easiest to equip with an electric drive and safety elements.

Sliding gates still have disadvantages, but they are few:

Cantilever sliding gates are one of the most complex in design, which is why their installation is not easy.
To install them, it is necessary to have a free section of the fence one and a half times larger than the size of the opening, which is not always achievable.

Determining the feasibility of installing sliding gates

Even with the great desire and remarkable financial capabilities of the site owner to install sliding gates, situations may arise when installation is either impossible or very difficult. What are these situations?

The space where the gate will roll back along the fence should be free by at least one and a half width of the gate opening. This is explained by the fact that on the door leaf, in addition to the part covering the opening, there is also a technological part, which in length occupies at least half of the width of the opening - this way the loads from the gate will be better distributed on the cantilever block.

Sliding gates move in a straight line, which means that the required area of free fence space must also be straight.
In the place where the gate will move there should be no uneven terrain that would interfere with the free movement of the gate.

There should be no gates in the path of the gate; it is better to make them on the opposite side. Sometimes sliding gates with built-in wickets are ordered, but they will inevitably have high thresholds, which is extremely inconvenient for children and elderly people.
It happens that the owners intend to use the gate as a wicket - when the canvas moves away to a distance sufficient for people to pass through. This is not necessary, since any gate mechanism is designed for a certain number of cycles and frequent use of them will greatly reduce the service life.
If you enter the site from a narrow lane, then to make maneuvering easier, you need to increase the gate opening, which will affect the dimensions of the doorway.

If such difficult situations is not on the site, then you can start installing sliding gates with your own hands.

In order for sliding gates to be installed correctly and have a long service life in the future, it is necessary to break technological process at several stages.

Preparatory work

The first and one of the main parts of the preparatory operations is assessing the location of the gate installation. What should you pay attention to?

If the gate is installed to replace the old one, which has a different design, then the presence and condition of the support pillars will be assessed. If they are made of brick, reinforced concrete section at least 20 per 20 cm, profile metal pipe cross-section at least 60 per 40 cm, their strict verticality is maintained, and they are securely fixed in the ground, then they can well serve as a support and response post for sliding gates. If not, you will have to rebuild your pillars.
Near the support pillar it should be possible to dig a hole for the foundation, which should be located close to the pillar, run parallel to the fence and have dimensions of 500 mm by 2000 mm.
If there is a new fence on the site, then all work on its construction and preparation for the installation of sliding gates can be combined, which is most preferable.
Very often, at the entrance to the territory, they erect brick pillars, which is both practical and beautiful. When constructing them, you need to make embedded elements in the form of steel plates 100*100 mm and 5 mm thick, three on each pillar. The top plate must be placed on inside the pillar close to the edge, which is closer to the opening. The distance from the top of the column to the plate is 200 mm. The lower embedded plate is located similarly to the upper one, but at a distance of 200 mm from the zero mark. “Zero” is considered to be the level of entry through the gate. The middle plate is placed midway between the top and bottom. Gate elements will subsequently be attached to them.

When building a new fence, you can take into account that most often the width of the passage for sliding gates is 4 meters. This standard has long been adopted in European countries. All manufacturers of components and accessories have necessary kits elements specifically for this gate size. To make your work much easier, it is better to use a ready-made solution.
It is necessary to decide what the door leaf will be and what it will be lined with. There are a lot of options, and in each of them the gate will have different mass. This may influence the selection of the required strength elements. Most often in Lately corrugated sheeting is used, but there are cladding options wooden clapboard, forged decorative elements or simply leave the lattice structure made of steel pipes.

Before purchasing the necessary components, you need to draw up your own detailed drawing with specifications or use ready-made solutions, which are in the albums of gate manufacturers and on owner forums country houses in the Internet. In any case, you need to be very clear about the design of how many materials you will need and which ones.

Marking work

When the gate posts are installed, regardless of whether the fence is erected or not, you can begin marking. To do this you need:

Determine the level of the zero mark, which is taken to be the surface level at the entrance to the garage opening. Moreover, it is not at all necessary that the entrance surface will already be ready when work begins. This can be done later. This level must be marked on one pillar and then transferred to another using a water or laser level.
At the level of the zero marks, the cord is pulled close to the inner surface of the pillars, and the cord should go further support table(where the gate will move when opened) at a distance of at least two meters. The horizontality of the tensioned cord is checked.

Sliding gate foundation installation

In order to absorb the loads from the weight of the gate at rest and when moving, you need to build a foundation. To do this, a channel No. 20 with a length of 2000 mm is needed as the upper part on which the roller units and electric drive will be mounted. For the foundation it is necessary to dig a hole, which is adjacent to the support pillar, has a length of 2100 mm, a width of 500 mm. The depth is determined by the level of soil freezing in winter time. In most regions, a depth of 1500 mm will be sufficient.

To reinforce the foundation and create a connection between the channel and the foundation, three square-section frames with a side of 150 mm from reinforcement No. 16 and a length of 1400 mm are welded. For cross braces, you can use reinforcement No. 10-12 with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

The finished frames are welded to the lower surface of the channel in the middle of its flange. The center lines of the outer frames are located 400 mm from the edges of the channel, and the third – exactly in the middle. After this, you need to add 10 cm of sand or sand-gravel mixture to the bottom of the hole, compact it and begin installing the finished channel with reinforcement cages. In this case, you should take into account:

The channel is laid close to the supporting post, strictly parallel to the line of movement of the gate, flush with the zero mark. A previously stretched cord will help to do this.
To prevent laitance from leaking into the ground from the concrete mixture, which reduces the strength of concrete, it is better to line the bottom and walls of the pit with plastic film.
The surface of the channel should be at the zero level, therefore, when installing frames with a channel, it is good to use pieces of reinforcement that can be used to fix the structure in the pit. When supplying concrete, a significant load will be applied to the frames, so the fixation must be reliable.
To make it easier to level top part concrete with a channel, very convenient to install from above edged boards with the surface at zero level.

If you plan to use an electric drive with an automation unit and a security system, then you should immediately take care of the gasket required cables. The laying diagram can be seen in the figure. Cables should be laid either in a corrugated pipe, or better yet, in polyethylene pipe with a diameter of 20 mm.

It's time concrete works. To fill the foundation of sliding cantilever gates, you must use concrete of at least M250-M300 grade. To prepare it you will need components in the following proportions by volume:

One bucket of M400 cement.
Two buckets of washed sand.
Four buckets of crushed stone or gravel.
The amount of water depends on the moisture content of sand and cement and ranges from 0.7 to 1 bucket. The use of plasticizers reduces the amount of water required and increases the mobility of the mixture, which is useful during installation.

The amount needed for the foundation will, of course, be greater, the main thing is to maintain the specified proportions. To prepare the concrete mixture, it is best to use a concrete mixer or a powerful construction mixer. When mixing manually, the quality of concrete deteriorates.

Concrete mixer - indispensable assistant for gate foundation installation

First, sand and cement are poured into the concrete mixer. After mixing them, add some water to mix the solution until smooth. Next, crushed stone or gravel is added and water is gradually added until the concrete becomes homogeneous and mobile. When laying concrete in a hole you must:

Feed the concrete mixture gradually so as not to move the leveled structure.
After laying the next portion of concrete, you need to pierce it in several places with a reinforcement bar to remove possible air bubbles.
After laying and leveling the top layer, wipe the surface of the channel with a wet rag so that it remains clean for subsequent operations.

Complete maturation of the concrete occurs within 28 days, but after a week it will already gain the strength that will allow installation of the gate. And at this time you can do other technological operations.

Manufacturing of sliding gates

When making gate leaves, if you do not have sufficient skills in welding metals, it is better to go where specialists in a workshop will make them to the required dimensions. Sliding gates are a fairly large structure and at home it will be difficult to ensure that all parts are located in the same plane, which is extremely necessary. Another advantage of making gates in workshops is that priming and painting can be done with a compressor, and this gives more high-quality coating. But if you still want to do everything yourself, then this is quite possible.

One of possible options The door leaf is shown in the figure. The main frame is made from a 60*40 mm profile pipe, and the stiffeners and internal filling are made from a 20*40 mm pipe. The supporting beam, which is located at the bottom of the drawing, has a length of 6 meters and it must be welded to the gate, so it is time to purchase a set of components for sliding cantilever gates and profile pipes for making the door leaf.

A wide range of accessories for sliding gates is presented in various stores and construction markets. She is like Russian manufacturer, and imported. When purchasing fittings, you need to take into account the weight of the future door leaf and the size of the opening. In our case, the size of the opening is 4000 mm, and the weight of the canvas, if covered with corrugated sheeting, will be up to 400 kg, which must be reported to the seller.

IN standard set for gates includes:

The guide beam is 71*60*3.5 mm, 6 meters long.
Two roller supports.
End roller.
Lower end roller catcher.
Upper catcher.
Guide device with two rollers.
Two plugs for the beam.

To weld the gate, you will need to make an assembly table consisting of three stands of the same height. The supports can be stakes driven into the ground at the same level and boards laid on top. The main thing is that all three stands lie in the same horizontal plane.

Another option for an improvised assembly table can be timber or building stones laid on the ground and placed at one level.

A profile pipe purchased at a metal warehouse rarely does not have pockets of corrosion, so before making the gate, all pipes should be thoroughly cleaned of rust stains and contaminants. This is most conveniently done with a grinder with a special grinding disc.

According to the drawing, 60*40 mm profile pipes are cut for the main gate frame. In this case, you must try to make sure that during welding there are no holes left for access to the internal cavity of the pipe. Marking should be done with a tape measure and a square, and cutting should be done with a grinder with a cutting disc, or better yet, with a cutting machine that allows you to accurately observe all the angles.

Pipes are laid out on the mounting surface, guided by the drawing, compliance with dimensions and perpendicularity is checked, and then all seams are tacked sequentially. After checking the dimensions and plane, all pipe connections are welded with a continuous seam. All remaining open ends of the pipes are welded with plugs. After this, all welding seams are carefully cleaned with a grinder and a grinding disc.

Profile pipes 40*20 mm for stiffening ribs are cut to size, which are then applied to the inner surface of the main frame, tightened with clamps and pinched pointwise. This is how the entire internal frame is assembled. After checking compliance with the dimensions in the drawing, checking the diagonals of the rectangular part of the gate, the plane of the structure, all seams are welded.

At the connections of the pipes of the internal frame, continuous seams are applied to each other, and to connect the side surfaces of the main frame with the inner one, seams of 10-15 mm are made with an interval of 400-500 mm. Welding must be done in a checkerboard pattern so that excessive overheating in one place does not cause the entire structure to “deteriorate.”

For priming and painting, the gate must be installed in a position close to vertical. It is best to use an automotive anti-corrosion primer, which must be applied in two layers. It is preferable to do this with a compressor and sprayer, but you can also use a brush, but it will take longer and the quality of the coating will be worse. Special attention Care must be taken to fill the gap between the beam and the gate with a primer. It would also be appropriate to cover this gap with “sausages” acrylic sealant. After this, the entire gate can be painted in two layers. Inner surface Under no circumstances should the load-bearing beam be painted!

After the paint has completely dried, you can install cladding on the gate, the most preferred of which is corrugated sheeting, as it combines light weight, strength, and beautiful appearance and reasonable price.

Installation of sliding gates

The installation of a cantilever structure on a previously installed channel can begin no earlier than 7 days after concreting. To mount roller carts, it is recommended to purchase a mounting plate with studs, which will allow you to:

Adjust the gate position in height and horizontality.
It is easy to remove the gate for repairs or replacement of roller blocks.

To install the gate you need:

Place the roller carriages onto the mounting plate, making the height the same and average on all studs. Do not tighten the upper nuts too much.
The position of the mounting plates must be marked on the foundation. To do this, measure 150 mm from the edge of the channel that is closer to the opening and draw a line perpendicular to its length. This will be tangent to the edge of the first mounting plate.
To find the position of the second support, you need to measure the total length of the gate and subtract 100 mm from it. The resulting distance must be set aside from the beginning of the return post parallel to the goal line to the channel. At this point a perpendicular is drawn, which will be tangent to the second mounting plate.
If the load-bearing capacity of the pillars is good and the anchor bolts will be fastened in them well, then the use of additional metal pillars is not necessary. If not, then it is welded vertically using previously prepared embedded parts. profile pipe height equal to the height of the gate plus 200 mm, cross-section 40*40*2 mm. On the support post it can be welded close to the edge, and on the return post it can be welded at a distance of 20-50 mm from the edge of the post.

At a height of 150-200 mm at a distance of 20-30 mm from the branch and supporting pillars, a cord is stretched horizontally, parallel to the line of movement of the gate. It will indicate the position of the tangent to the edge of the supporting beam. The cord must be stretched throughout the entire movement of the gate: from the edge of the table to the position of the edge of the gate when it is fully open.
Roller carriages are placed in the supporting beam and moved approximately to the middle of the gate. Then, with the participation of assistants, the door leaf is placed vertically above the channel. The roller carriages are moved along previously marked lines, and the stretched cord should touch the guide beam along its entire length. This position can be fixed using stands made of planks. After checking the verticality, the roller platforms can be “grabbed” by electric welding in several places.
The movement of the gate is checked, its verticality and horizontality, which is checked in the closed position. If necessary, correction is made using adjusting nuts on the studs of the platforms. The gate should move easily along the guide, parallel (lightly touching) the tensioned cord. The gaps between the support and response posts should be the same, and from the zero mark to the bottom edge 80-100 mm. If everything is normal, then the carriage fastening nuts can be tightened and the platforms themselves can be welded in a circle.

A plug is mounted on the rear console part of the load-bearing beam. An end roller is mounted in the front part of the beam. Each manufacturer has its own installation method, so you must use the instructions.
A guide device with two rollers is mounted on the support column in its upper part. To do this, a bracket for attaching the guide is attached to the pole, and holes are marked. In brick or concrete it is necessary to fasten with anchors with studs with a diameter of 10 mm, and in metal - with appropriate self-tapping screws. If welding will be used for fastening, it is better to temporarily remove the plastic rollers. After mounting on the post, the rollers are positioned so that they tightly cover the door leaf, maintain its verticality and do not interfere with the smooth movement.

The gate is rolled out to the fully closed position, and the location for attaching the lower catcher is marked on the return post. The end roller should fit tightly onto the catcher shelf, partially relieving the load on the roller blocks. The catcher is mounted using appropriate fasteners and the movement of the gate and the ease of its fixation in the closed position are checked.

An upper catcher is installed, which prevents the gate from swinging in the wind. In a completely closed state, the position of the catcher is outlined and its fastening is made. Very often, the upper catcher in the kit also has a protective bracket that is put on the door leaf, which protects against damage to the coating. The bracket is mounted so that when closing it is the one that enters the catcher.

If necessary, a rear limiter is installed to prevent the gate from rolling back far when fully opened.

After proper installation, the gate should move very easily and be locked in place. extreme positions. The final work will be cleaning all welds, covering them with anti-corrosion primer and painting. Next, handles for opening and closing can be attached to the gate leaf, and also installed. Each drive manufacturer has its own installation features, which are described in detail in the accompanying documentation. But this work will be much easier, since the main thing has already been done - installing sliding gates with your own hands.

Video - Installation instructions for sliding gates

Video - Installation of a ready-made gate kit without welding

Video - How to make sliding gates yourself

Even taking into account all the myths that exist about sliding hanging gates, this design is perfectly created on the basis of conventional cantilever fittings. Of course, in order to build high-quality gates, specially prepared fittings for high-quality hanging gates are required. If you have one, then you can create the design yourself.

Suspended sliding gates can be constructed using fittings that weigh less than 400 kg. In this case, they can boast an opening width of 2-5 meters. Select canvases for them that weigh less than 200 kg (in this case, the fittings should work exclusively to straighten the shelves).

How to make hinged gates? First of all, you need to attach the guides on top of the opening. In the direction that will be the main one for sliding the gate, you should place a guide along the width of the opening. It must be secured well and the guide must not bend. An excellent subtlety to consider is the method of welding the guide to the channel flange.

Main features of these gates

Hanging gates can save space in front of the entrance if your driveway is small.
With such a home-made gate, there is no need to constantly clear the space in front of the yard from snow.
This DIY device is resistant to wind.
To install gates that will be suspended, you should ensure there is free space along the opening line.
The top part of the sliding gate, to which the guide should be attached, is the height limiter.
In winter, you will be forced to regularly clean snow from sliding gates.
Most often, the width of the gate, which is considered standard for cars, is no higher than 3 meters.
If you want to make the gate a little wider with your own hands, to make the structure lighter, you can equip it with two doors that slide apart in different directions.

List of required materials for gate installation

In order to please yourself with a gate made with your own golden hands, you need to take:

Square metal pipe for the frame.
Professional flooring, sheet metal or panels that are required to make the canvas.
Square pipe with special dimensions (120 mm x 120 mm x 4 mm). This part will appear as an upper beam and support.
A guide that is 2 times longer than the sash (about 6 meters).
A set of accessories that is used to create sliding gates with your own hands.
Automation kit. It will be needed in order to fully automate sliding gates (namely, the process of closing and opening).
Mortise lock.
Welding machine.
"Bulgarian".

Accessories for hanging gates

The fittings are welded to the frame of your canvas. In this case, the width of the carriages is determined by the fact of their width. You should pay attention to the fact that the canvas should cover the opening on the sides by about 2 centimeters in each direction. In this case, the overlap on top should be 1 centimeter, and the gap that remains between the floor and the canvas should be a key 50 mm.

Do the gate leaves swing? If this occurs, they should be secured with a limiter. It can also be trimmed and holes made to maximize the adjustment range.

Limiting the consumption of carriages is done by welding a piece of reinforcement onto the guide slot. Need a stopper? Then on one of the sides you should place a knurling roller as a stopper (if you purchase a kit, then this item included in it). In addition, the ends of the guide are covered with special plugs.

A few more nuances associated with sliding gates

Be aware that pipes are laid exclusively on a flat surface. For their correct installation, you need to answer the following questions: what shape will the future gate be? How to join corners? The last of the parts mentioned need to be secured spot welding. During these manipulations, it is important to measure the diagonals. If the corners are uneven, the sliding gate may become warped.

The frame that supports the suspended sliding gates is leveled using a hammer if necessary. The seams on the gates are welded so that moisture does not get inside the frame. To do this, you will need to measure all the internal dimensions, and then cut the internal frame from the pipe.

This frame needs to be assembled in the same way as the external one. It should be welded to the outer frame from the inside of the structure, aligning it along one of the edges. Then remove scale and coat with primer. Then you need to wait until it dries before applying paint to the metal.
Suspended sliding structures are used, as a rule, for technical buildings: warehouses, garages, hangars, docks and other industrial premises.