Gardeners value radishes for their tasty and healthy roots, which are eagerly awaited. However, in some cases, the yield can be significant and for a short time spoil the pests called cruciferous flea beetles. These little bugs bring a lot of trouble. How to save seedlings and get rid of insects, we will talk in this article.
What is this pest?
The cruciferous flea is mainly harmful to plants of the cruciferous family, which is why it got its name. The flea has hind legs on which it jumps like a flea, but it is not a blood-sucking insect. The beetle prefers to settle on weeds such as wild radish, shepherd's purse, from garden crops especially loves turnips and cabbage. However, radish remains a favorite delicacy in the early stages of the pest.
The insect is very small in size, the length of its oblong oval body is up to 3 millimeters. At the same time, the flea can fly. There are several varieties of pest, among them black, blue, light-legged and others. The differences are mainly determined by the color of the elytra.
Beetles live in the European part of Russia, excluding the regions of the Far North. The harm from the insect is expressed in the fact that it damages the leaves, in which it gnaws peculiar pits. The flea is especially dangerous for young greenery, since it can gnaw through delicate leaves. Thin roots of crops serve as a delicacy for the larvae. The most active pests are during the day, excluding the interval from 13 to 16 hours, when the sun is especially scorching.
V winter period an adult flea hides in the remains of plants, the crevices of greenhouses, and the soil. When spring comes and the ground thaws, insects come out and start actively looking for food for themselves, after which eggs are laid. The cruciferous flea larvae live in the soil for about 3 weeks, after this time they pupate, and new young individuals emerge on the surface. An insect can give birth to a whole summer period up to 3 generations.
Prevention measures
Any problem is easier to prevent than to deal with its consequences later. Therefore, experts and seasoned gardeners recommend several methods of prevention that will help preserve radishes. Let's consider. what needs to be done to protect the plantings from the pest at the initial stage.
The proximity of coriander, dill and garlic repels the pest, since the insect does not like the smell of these plants. In the case when radishes are planted towards the end of the season, it is recommended to place the beds next to calendula or marigolds, which the flea also does not tolerate.
Control methods
In order to get rid of a cruciferous flea, you need to make sure that this particular insect is harming the crop. This is not so difficult to do, because despite the small size of the pest, it can be easily detected visually. Bugs jump over leaves with gnawed holes.
The main danger of the flea is that in the absence of a fight against it, the gardener can completely lose seedlings. Since radish often appears earlier than other sprouts, it is on it that the blow of bugs that become active after hibernation falls on. In addition, a large number of these insects can harm adult plants, as well as even hardened radish testes, so protection measures should be started as early as possible.
One should start with prevention and deterrence, chemicals are used as a last resort.
Folk remedies
Not all gardeners accept the use of chemicals. In some cases, folk methods manifest themselves quite effectively, however, when using them, it must be borne in mind that in this case it is not enough to process the crops once or twice, systematic care will be required, which, accordingly, implies a large investment of time. There are several of the most common folk methods, the excellent action of which is confirmed by a huge number of examples:
- humid environment;
- dry pollination;
- shelter non-woven fabric;
- setting traps;
- spraying with infusions.
Let's consider the listed methods in more detail.
Wet environment
The red-colored flea feels great in hot and dry weather, but it does not like moisture. Therefore, when planting, it is recommended to choose the most humid part of the garden. Watering abundantly will also scare away the pest. At the same time, do not forget that he is afraid of strong odors, so it will be useful to add pungent-smelling agents to the water.
Dry pollination
Plantings can be pollinated by various means, since the beetle chooses the cleanest leaves for food. This method is very popular among gardeners, as it does not require large financial costs and is very effective. Mixtures can be different, most often ash is used in combination with tobacco or road dust, as well as fluff lime.
The components should be taken in equal proportions and mixed thoroughly. The procedure itself is recommended to be carried out early in the morning so that the composition lay on the dew, and you also need to water the radish first. In humid conditions, the particles of the mixture adhere well to wet leaves. For the most effective and uniform result, the composition is placed in a gauze bag, and then gently shaken over the sprouts. This method is also called dusting.
Minus this method is that it does not work for a single use. Good protection can only be ensured when dusting is carried out systematically.
The ideal option would be when the gardener can spend it after each watering or rain. And also to achieve the maximum effect, crops should be processed not only from above, but also from below.
Nonwoven Shelter
If the crops are covered with a canvas, they will be protected not only from insects, but also from weeds and cold weather. The material must be chosen correctly, it must transmit light, water and air, but at the same time it must be an insurmountable obstacle for pests. For example, lutrasil or spunbond works well.
In addition, many recommend dusting the radish before sheltering, which will serve as additional protection. When found under such a canvas, the radish will grow, get stronger, the leaves will coarsen a little, therefore, when the shelter is removed, it will no longer be an easily accessible and especially attractive delicacy for a flea.
Traps
The use of a sticky flag is often used to help get rid of the pest. The procedure is quite simple and does not require any special skills.
To make a flag, a piece of fabric is attached to a stick and treated with some kind of adhesive. Solid oil is excellent for this purpose. After that, you need to walk along the radish beds, slightly touching the flag of its leaves. This will disturb the insects, which will try to hide from danger, and, flying away or jumping, will touch the material and stick to it.
Gardeners advise to carry out this procedure in the middle of a dry and hot day, while repeating it several times, maintaining short time intervals. Such flea fishing will help to significantly reduce the number of insects in the beds.
Another trap is made using waste engine oil in which a piece of cloth is moistened. Along the beds with radishes, boards are laid out, on which the impregnated fabric is laid. So that as possible more insects trapped, the material must be turned over a couple of times a day.
Spraying with infusions
Infusions can be made on the basis of various components. For example, ash and tobacco dust, which are used for dusting, are suitable. There are many popular recipes, each selects the simplest and most effective in a particular case. Here are the most common ones.
A glass of ash is poured into one liter of boiling water, mixed and left for 48 hours. After that, you should grate the laundry soap and add it to the infusion. You can also use liquid soap. Radish is sprayed with this composition.
A glass of tobacco dust should be poured with a bucket of boiling water and left for 24 hours. After that, 100 grams of soap is added, and the infusion is filtered through cheesecloth.
Chop the garlic. Tomato stepchildren are added to it. The ratio should be 1: 1. The mixture is poured with warm water and infused for 5-6 hours, after which it is filtered, and a little liquid soap is added to the resulting infusion.
Although radish does not have so many pests, and its ripening period is so short that they do not have time to really harm, sometimes the crop is spoiled. To prevent this from happening again, you need to know how to protect and how to spray radishes from pests. Let's talk about this.
How to deal with radish pests?
The main pest of radish is cruciferous flea... This tiny dark colored bug leaps dexterously and, despite its diminutive size, can have a significant negative effect on radishes. Fleas eat the leaves of the plant, leaving holes in them. And when they reach a certain size, the radish stops growing.
Naturally, the root crop does not ripen and sometimes even dies. It is necessary to pay attention to this pest already at the germination stage, since young plants are not able to resist the invasion of the pest for a long time. Cruciferous fleas are especially active in dry and hot weather.
So, how to treat radishes from these small pests:
- You can spray the leaves of the radish with a solution of wood ash (2 cups of fresh ash per bucket of water with the addition of 50 g laundry soap).
- Ash can not be diluted in water, but simply scattered on the garden bed so that it falls on the leaves. You can do the same with tobacco dust.
- For greater efficiency, young seedlings can be treated with the Inta-Vir insecticide. Spraying of neighboring cultivated plants will not hurt either. However, this should be done only as a last resort, since there is a risk of destruction of crops.
Tip: after processing the radish, you need to water it very carefully, best of all - by a drip method, so as not to wash off the applied control agents from the leaves.
Another enemy of the radish is the white woman, or rather its larvae. It's best to fight her without chemicals... For example, treat the beds with a solution of mustard powder, table salt and ground pepper.
To prepare the solution, you need to take 2 tablespoons of mustard powder and salt and 1 teaspoon of red or black ground pepper. Dissolve this mixture in 10 liters of water and water the radish garden.
In addition to fighting radish pests, preventive work should also be carried out - to remove weeds on time, observe the correct crop rotation, do not be late with sowing seeds, use light covering material in the early stages, water it in a timely manner, loosen the plants in order to accelerate their growth.
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womanadvice.ru
Pests and diseases of radish and their control
Although radishes do not have as many pests and diseases as, for example, tomatoes, but they are, and can destroy most of the crop. This article is an addition to a lot of material on growing radishes.
Keeping crop rotation in the backyard helps well in the fight against diseases. Since radish is an early ripening crop (the harvest can be obtained in about 1 month), that is, the temptation to return to the same garden with repeated sowing after a while already in the same season. Doing so is highly undesirable. Since this can lead to outbreaks of various diseases. It is also highly undesirable to plant radishes after cabbage or other cruciferous plants. Good predecessors are onions, garlic, peas, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, taverns.
Pests
The main scourge of radish is cruciferous fleas - small bugs, usually dark in color, jump well from place to place. They damage the leaves of the radish (make holes in them). And if damage to the leaf apparatus of a plant reaches a critical size, then the plant suddenly stops growing and may die. At the same time, the root crop does not ripen and does not grow to the specified size. Radish shoots should be especially protected from flea beetles. Otherwise, crops can be completely destroyed (eaten). An adult plant can still tolerate flea beetles to some extent. Fleas are especially rampant in dry hot weather. Early plantings of radish can generally yield crops before the mass appearance of cruciferous flea beetles.
Flea control should be carried out using biological methods. The first method is to spray the leaves with a solution of wood ash. The solution is prepared as follows: about 2 glasses of preferably fresh ash and 50 grams of laundry soap are added to a 10-liter bucket of water. Everything gets mixed up. Some make it easier. They collect ashes on a shovel and crush them over the garden. For a while, the flea limits its harmful activities.
The second way is the same. Only instead of ash they take tobacco dust. It should be said right away that you still need to look for tobacco dust in stores, and although it is not expensive, it is still worth it. And the ash is usually its own, free.
All these methods are still not effective enough. The most effective is treatment with an insecticide, for example Inta-Vir. But this should be done only as a last resort, only for medium-sized radishes (ripening period 25 days) and only for young seedlings, if the threat of destruction of crops is high enough. Another exotic (mechanical) way to control the cruciferous flea is to cover the radish with white agrospan right along the shoots. If the weather is not too hot, then the seedlings under it do not stretch out and there are no fleas en masse there. After the seedlings have grown stronger, we remove the non-woven covering material and fight further with ash.
Important note. It is advisable to transfer radishes to drip irrigation. Otherwise, all efforts to combat the flea with the help of infusion on ash will be in vain after the first watering from above on the leaves. The infusion is washed off the leaves, and the flea is back to work. If next to radishes grow cultivated plants and weeds of the cruciferous family, then all the surroundings can be treated with chemistry.
Whitewash is another radish pest. Belianka is a white butterfly with dark edging of its wings. But the leaves of the radish are eaten by its caterpillars.When fighting the whitewash, it is also advisable to do without the use of chemicals. The beds must be treated with a solution of mustard, table salt and ground pepper. It is prepared like this: for a 10-liter bucket of water - 2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of red or black pepper.
Radish diseases
Bacteriosis Root crops become slimy, begin to emit a rotten smell. At the same time, the leaves of the radish turn yellow. To combat this disease, the plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
Keela. Bulges and growths appear on the surface of root crops, the leaves of radish begin to turn yellow and wither. To combat this fungal disease, the soil around the damaged plants is watered with milk of lime. Prepare it like this: dissolve 2 cups of fluffy lime in a 10-liter bucket of water. One plant must be watered with 1 liter of solution.
Blackleg. Young radish plants can be affected by the black leg. The leaves curl and turn yellow, blackening appears at the base of the stem of the plant. To combat the black leg, prepare the following solution: dissolve 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate and 40-50 grams of laundry soap in a 10-liter bucket of water. Then the diseased plants are sprayed.
It is also very good to spray the seedlings with onion husk tincture 2-3 times with an interval of 6 days (about 20 g per liter, leave for 1 day).
When choosing varieties of radish for planting, preference should be given to varieties resistant to various diseases, but it can be reiterated that it is better to take preventive measures. And then the likelihood of disease will decrease dramatically.
sadimvmeste.ru
Radish pests: the main types and methods of control
In our latitudes, a variety of pests are common, causing a lot of trouble for summer residents. Let's look at those of them that are most often found in Russian gardens.
Cabbage whites and their caterpillars. An adult insect is a large white butterfly with a characteristic black border around the edges of its wings. Caterpillars are greenish-yellow in color with black spots. At first, the pests live on the underside of the leaves, gradually spreading to neighboring plants.
Cruciferous flea. This insect represents serious danger for seedlings of radish, feeding on their leaves, making many holes in them.
Cabbage moth is a gray-brown pest with a characteristic dark fringe on its wings. Insect larvae are especially dangerous for radish.
Cabbage fly (spring). Ash gray fly that poses a threat to radishes in the larval stage. Each larva looks like a small whitish worm, reaching a length of 8 mm. Actively developing larvae damage the root of the plant, which quickly dies as a result of their vital activity.
The summer cabbage fly differs from the spring one in its exceptionally more impressive size. Otherwise, these pests are almost identical in the degree of their harmfulness.
Garden scoop. This moth, being an adult, is not dangerous for radish seedlings. The main threat is not adult insects, but their larvae. Pests feed on young radish foliage, gradually eating them from the underside and leaving only a thin skeleton. And we all know that with a critical decrease in the deciduous apparatus, the plant stops developing.
Stem nematode. Both adult pests and their larvae feed on the sap of the plant, gradually leading to its drying out and death.
Wireworm. This enemy is able to eat almost the entire radish sprout. He likes all parts of the plant without exception: from the root or root crop to young greenery.
The coleworm is another butterfly that is also dangerous in the larval stage. Gray-brown adult butterflies, as well as garden scoops, do not pose a danger to the beds, unlike their larvae, which live by eating the leaves of vegetable crops.
Pest control methods
Of course, the list of pests waiting for the first shoots in your beds inspires a number of fears, if not - inspires despair. But do not get upset ahead of time: modern Agriculture and agricultural technology have a number of tools that can, if not completely eradicate the problem of insects in the garden, then greatly facilitate the process of combating them.
Despite the daunting list possible pests, as well as possible negative results of the vital activity of such insects, the fight against them, as a rule, occurs using the same means.
Most threats retreat if you apply a magical, proven remedy on the garden bed, consisting of two glasses of wood ash, 50 grams of laundry soap and 10 liters of water. Such a drug is considered especially effective if there is a struggle with a cruciferous flea.
Good results allows you to achieve regular dusting of seedlings with wood ash or tobacco dust (the method is especially effective if you resort to it immediately after watering or rain).
Mustard-pepper infusion has also proven itself well: in 10 liters of water you need to add 1 teaspoon of ground pepper (red or black) and 2 tablespoons of table salt and mustard powder. Such a tool is used mainly to lime the whitewash caterpillar.
There is one more, several non-standard way control of insects, in particular flea beetles: this is the so-called sticky trap. As the main tool, a thick sheet of cardboard or paper is used, abundantly greased with starch paste. Armed with such a device, you need to go around the entire bed, holding a sheet of paper (greased side down) close to the soil surface. Insects jump and stay on the paper, getting stuck in the sticky paste. For several walks along the beds in this way, you can organize the treatment of plantings and get rid of almost all fleas.
Of course, besides insects, there are other dangers that lie in wait for your beds, for example, radish diseases. But this is a completely different story, which we will tell in detail about in the next article.
Video "How to deal with a cruciferous flea"
plodovie.ru
How to deal with radish pests
Hello dear readers!
With pests cruciferous crops(of which the radish belongs to the family) and measures to combat them, we have already met in the article "Pests of cabbage and measures to combat them." The "portraits" of these pests are described in detail in this article, but the protection of precisely radish and its other close relatives (turnip, radish, daikon, rutabaga, turnip) should be told separately from them, since this culture is very early ripening and methods of pest control specific should be applied. Early maturity dictates to use only means that are safe for human health to control radish pests. The use of plant protection chemicals should be excluded when growing.
First, I will list the main pests of radish that most of all annoy this early ripening culture and us - gardeners: cruciferous fleas, cabbage aphids, cabbage flies and slugs.
Radish is cold-resistant and podzimnye or the earliest spring terms of its planting will help us grow the crop before the massive appearance of the main pests of radish. Preparing the soil in advance for growing radishes, digging it in autumn with a turnover of the seam will ensure the partial death of pests from the cold. Keeping radish beds moist and free from weeds is an effective preventative measure. Growing radishes on fertile, humus-rich soil, timely feeding that does not exceed the recommended norms organic fertilizers, strict adherence to the cultivation technology, will ensure the rapid growth of plants and thereby avoid damage by pests in the early stages.
First, carefully inspect the surroundings of the radish garden, whether wild radish, colza and other weeds of the cruciferous family grow nearby, on which cruciferous fleas first of all settle, and when radish shoots appear, they move to them. Removing these weeds from your garden will greatly reduce the cruciferous flea population.
You can use the recommendations common on the network and block access to the pest by covering the bed with a covering non-woven material. But cruciferous fleas hibernate in the soil and this method can only reduce the number of the pest. It is better to use for these purposes the thinnest covering material, grade 17. Denser grades of covering material can cause overheating of plants in warm weather and contribute to the growth of the vegetative mass of leaves to the detriment of the formation of root crops.
For dusting plants after rains or watering with sifted ash, a gauze bag is suitable, filling which, shake it over the plants. You can do this dusting early in the morning, before the dew has dried.
The use of self-made sticky traps has been proven to be good for exterminating cruciferous flea beetles. Take a thick piece of cardboard, spread with starch or flour paste. At noon, when the flea beetles are very active, walk along the bed, holding the coated sheets with the glue down. Cruciferous fleas, constantly bouncing, will definitely stick to such a trap. So in a few passes, you can clean the entire bed, and in order to consolidate the achieved result, walking with such glue traps must be repeated 5-6 days later.
Cabbage fly control measures
Since most gardeners grow radishes in the spring, the danger is posed by the spring cabbage fly, which flies out during the cherry blossom season. In the fight against this pest of radish, it is important to strictly observe the requirements of crop rotation and grow radishes in the most early dates.
If there are signs of the appearance of a cabbage fly on the plants, you should add tobacco dust close to the stems, mixing it with ash or slaked lime.
Almost all gardeners grow radishes on their backyards. It belongs to early ripening crops, so it rarely suffers from diseases and pests, especially with proper care. But he still does not have absolute protection. If the gardener does not pay at least minimal attention to planting, it is likely that fungal diseases or pest attacks will develop. Therefore, you need to know the characteristic symptoms, be able to identify the problem and know how to cope with it. At an early stage, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient, in other cases it will be necessary to use "heavy artillery" in the form of chemicals.
General measures to prevent the development of diseases and attacks of radish pests
The short ripening period is one of the advantages of the radish. Many pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, eggs and insect larvae simply do not have time to go through the incubation period to cause significant damage to the plantings. But this does not mean that the culture, in principle, cannot suffer from diseases and pests.
To avoid negative consequences in the form of crop loss, it is advisable to regularly pay attention to preventive measures. There is nothing complicated in them, they will take quite a bit of time. But such events, coupled with competent agricultural technology, make it possible to practically guarantee planting protection from unwanted "guests".
There is nothing difficult in growing radishes, but this crop is not immune from disease and pest attacks.
A close inspection of the beds at least once every 4–5 days helps to detect the problem in time. In the early stages of infection, as a rule, in order to cope with it, there are enough folk remedies that are harmless to human health and environment... Chemicals, especially those that do not belong to preparations of biological origin, are very undesirable to use for the treatment of radishes. The culture is early ripening, harmful substances accumulate in root crops.
Plants with good immunity get sick much less often than those in which it is weakened. It is positively affected by soaking the seeds before planting in a solution of any biostimulant. A similar effect is given both by drugs purchased in the store (Epin, potassium humate, Emistim-M), and folk remedies(aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). But the excess nitrogen in the soil provides the opposite result, weakening the plants. This macronutrient has in large doses and one more negative consequence- radish begins to actively form leaves to the detriment of root crops. Potassium and phosphorus strengthen the immune system. Their natural source is wood ash.
To prevent fungal diseases, seeds are etched in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin for 15–20 minutes before planting. The most common drugs are Strobi, Tiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Bayleton.
Soaking seeds in a fungicide solution is an effective prevention of fungal diseases
A necessary condition for obtaining a bountiful harvest on a personal plot is crop rotation. Radish cannot be planted for 3-4 years where other crops from the Cruciferous family grew before (all types of cabbage, turnip, radish, rutabaga, turnip, daikon). In general, if possible, they are placed as far away from each other as possible. They draw the same nutrients from the soil and suffer from similar diseases. Many of the weeds used by pathogens as a "transshipment base" belong to the same family. Therefore, do not forget about regular weeding.
Cabbage, like other Crucifers, is a poor precursor and neighbor for radishes.
Radish seeds are planted as rarely as possible. With thickened plantings, diseases spread much faster. Plants are not ventilated, which is also harmful for them. Proper watering is also important. Drops should be avoided on leaves and stems.
Since autumn, the garden bed is dug up or at least deeply loosened. This helps to destroy fungal spores, eggs and pest larvae overwintering in the soil. All plant debris is collected and burned. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure as top dressing. It is an excellent breeding ground for them, moreover, it helps to keep the warmth necessary in cold weather.
Digging the beds in the fall helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of many pests that were going to winter in the soil
Culture-typical diseases
Radish does not have any specific diseases. Most often, it is affected by the most common fungal, bacterial or viral diseases, which do not bypass any garden crops in general or plants from the Cruciferous family.
Belle of cabbage crops (white rust)
All Cruciferous plants suffer from the disease to one degree or another, but radishes, horseradish and turnips are affected much more often than cabbage. It is most dangerous for young plants. The optimum temperature for the development of the fungus is about 15 ° C. Another risk factor is cool rainy weather or sudden temperature changes that provoke fog and / or heavy dew.
Radishes suffer from white rust more often than other Cruciferous plants.
Light green spots appear on the face of the leaf. The tissues in these places thicken, gradually turn brown and die off. On the seamy side, abscess-like pustules form. The leaf swells around them. When they "break through", a whitish, oily-shiny coating becomes visible, as if flakes of peeling paint. On root crops, if they have matured, outgrowths appear, resembling those that are characteristic of keels. Radish can turn into color, the stem begins to branch intensively, turning into something that looks like deer antlers. If you do nothing, it dries up and dies.
In case of severe damage, fungicides of biological origin are used - Ridomil-Gold, Ditan-M, Folikur. Folk remedies are effective in the early stages of the development of the disease and for prevention. These are, for example, a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda ash or baking soda, colloidal sulfur (10-15 g per 10 liters). To make the solution better "stick" to the treated plants, add a little liquid soap or soap shavings (3-5 ml or 10-15 g) to it. Preventive treatments are carried out every 7-10 days (or more often if it rains constantly). To combat the disease, radishes are sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.
Potassium permanganate is one of the most common disinfectants
Keela
A specific disease that is very dangerous for all Cruciferous plants. The gardener can lose at least half of the entire crop. Quite often it disappears altogether. The causative agent of the fungus is distinguished by rare vitality. On those beds where the keel has shown itself, potentially infected crops are not planted for 8-10 years. You can shorten this period to 4–5 years by placing tomatoes, potatoes, beets or any legumes there.
Keela is a disease that exclusively affects plants from the Cruciferous family.
On the aerial part of the plant, the keel does not appear in any way. During incubation period(20-30 days) growths are formed on the roots and root crops different sizes ball-shaped or fusiform. Gradually they turn brown and rot. The stem turns yellow, the leaves dry and lie down, as the plant does not receive enough water and nutrients.
Factors favoring the development of keels are too frequent and / or abundant watering, unsuitable heavy soil in which moisture stagnates for a long time, acidity of the substrate, high temperature (from 25 ° C). But it is also impossible to completely forget about watering - the keel causes the greatest damage during a prolonged drought. The disease spreads through infected seeds, soil, manure, it is carried by worms that live in the soil. It affects not only "cultured" Cruciferous plants, but also wild ones (shepherd's purse, rape).
Watering the radish correctly helps to slightly reduce the damage done to the keel crop.
Practice shows that radishes suffer much less from keels at early planting. Etching in Cumulus solution also helps to avoid contamination.
No remedies have been developed for the treatment of kila at the moment. The main emphasis should be on preventive measures. 2-3 days before planting the seeds, the soil is loosened, embedding sifted wood ash, or poured with so-called milk of lime (two glasses of slaked lime per 10 liters of water). You can also treat the garden bed with a solution of Carbation (40 g per 10 L) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 L).
Very dangerous viral disease capable of infecting most horticultural crops. Infected specimens are far behind in growth and development, the leaves are deformed and smaller. The front side of the leaf plate is covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots located in the intervals between the veins. Depending on which particular virus has infected the plant, they can be in the form of circles, strokes, angular spots. Gradually, these tissues turn black and die off. The veins also darken.
Radish mosaic is a viral disease, there are currently no remedies for its treatment
By using modern means it is impossible to get rid of the mosaic virus. The only way to stop its spread is to remove all affected plants from the garden and burn them as quickly as possible.
The best prevention is proper crop care and keeping the beds clean. It is especially important to strengthen the plant's immunity, timely and in the right doses by applying the necessary fertilizers. Before planting, it is recommended to pickle radish seeds in a solution of Rovral, Horus, Topaz. The carriers of the virus are many insects, for example, weevils, aphids, and ticks. We must not forget about the fight against them.
Etching in Rovral's solution is a good prophylaxis, but not absolutely guaranteed protection against the mosaic virus
Powdery mildew
A very common disease, not a single garden culture is immune from it. Leaves and petioles are covered with a layer of powdery whitish or pale gray coating, reminiscent of scattered flour. If you do nothing, it becomes denser and changes color, turning into large brown spots with black blotches on the surface. The tissues affected by the fungus die off, holes are formed. The sheet plates are deformed. As a rule, the leaves closest to the soil are infected first.
Powdery mildew on the leaves seems to be a harmless bloom that can be easily erased, but in fact it is a dangerous disease.
Most often, radish is affected by powdery mildew in hot, humid weather. Another risk factor is sudden temperature changes. The fungus is spread by the wind, with water droplets, and through direct contact with infected and healthy plants. The yield falls by 50% or more, and the quality of root crops also decreases.
For the prevention of powdery mildew, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient. Radish is sprayed at least once a week with a solution of colloidal sulfur, infusion of wood ash, sour milk or sour milk, diluted water, decoction of horsetail rhizomes. If time has already been lost and the fungus has spread en masse, copper-containing preparations are used - fungicides. The experience of gardeners shows that the best effect in the fight against powdery mildew is given by Skor, Quadris, Raek, Fundazim. From drugs of biological origin - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz. But some also rely on the old time-tested remedies - copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.
Wood ash is not only a source of potassium and phosphorus, it helps to destroy the spores of pathogenic fungi
Video: how to protect plants from powdery mildew
Peronosporosis (downy mildew)
Typical symptoms appear primarily on the leaves. They are covered with small angular spots with a seemingly oily surface. Gradually, their color changes from salad to straw yellow and dark brown. If the weather is wet, the inside of the leaf is covered with a continuous layer of greyish-purple bloom, reminiscent of felt. The whole process takes 10-13 days.
Peronosporosis develops quickly enough, so you should not hesitate with taking measures
To prevent the development of the disease, radishes are sprayed twice with diluted in water during the growing season boric acid(10-15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin, Rizoplan. From folk remedies, an infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood is used. The seeds are soaked in a solution of Bud, Energen, potassium humate, Fitosporin-M. To combat the disease, the same drugs are used that are recommended for the destruction of the fungus that causes powdery mildew.
Garlic is a plant that produces phytoncides that kill disease-causing fungi
Brown spots spread on root crops, quickly tightening with a layer of "fluffy" gray-gray bloom with small black "specks". The tissues under them soften and rot, the stem and petioles become watery, the leaves lose their tone. High humidity combined with low air temperature contributes to the development of the disease.
It is impossible to eat any fruits affected by gray rot
To prevent the development of gray rot, wood ash is periodically introduced into the soil, the plants are powdered with colloidal sulfur or crushed activated carbon... They can also be sprayed with diluted water. mustard powder or iodine (respectively 50 g or 10 drops per 10 liters). Several crystals of potassium permanganate are added to the water for irrigation every 7-10 days. It is useful to surround the garden with plants that produce natural phytoncides - marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums.
Marigolds are not only a beautiful, but also a very useful plant.
If gray rot is noticed on time, the plants and soil are treated with the following solution - for 10 liters of water, take a glass of sifted wood ash and crushed chalk, add 10-12 ml of copper sulfate. In case of mass infection, Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair are used. But this no longer guarantees success.
Vascular bacteriosis
Most often, the disease affects adult plants, seedlings are practically not susceptible to it. The veins on the leaves turn black, then spots of the same color spread around them. The leaf plate turns yellow, as if "crumbling". The growth of radish slows down, the petioles are deformed.
Adult radish most often suffers from vascular bacteriosis already at the stage of root crop formation.
Risk factors - high humidity, heat, mechanical damage. The disease is transmitted by insects, raindrops. The bacterium lives in plant debris, unripe manure, remains in seeds from infected plants, retaining viability for 2-3 seasons. For disinfection planting material immediately before disembarking, immerse in hot (45-50 ° C) water for 15–20 minutes.
To prevent infection, 10-12 days after the emergence of seedlings, radish seedlings are sprayed with Planriz or Trichodermin. In the early stages of infestation, radishes can be saved by treating them with Binoram or Phytolavin. If the disease has gone far in its development, the plants can no longer be helped.
Fitolavin is a popular drug that increases plant immunity
"Blackleg"
Fungal disease affecting mainly young seedlings. Mature, mature plants have sufficient resistance. The base of the stem turns black and becomes thinner, the seedlings fall on the ground under their own weight. The leaves turn yellow, the plant dries up. The disease develops quite quickly, as a rule, the affected plants can no longer be helped. But it is quite realistic to prevent the appearance of the "black leg".
"Black leg" can deprive the gardener of the radish harvest already at the stage of germination
The most important preventive measure is proper watering. The fungus also loves stale air (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, it must be regularly ventilated), heat and acidified substrate. Seeds are sown on time, not earlier. Low temperature and light deficiency negatively affects plant immunity.
Seeds must undergo pre-planting preparation. They are soaked in an infusion of garlic gruel, a dark raspberry solution of potassium permanganate. The soil in the garden bed 3-4 days before planting the radish is spilled with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and immediately after the procedure is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. Pour crushed charcoal or chalk, the plants themselves are powdered with sifted wood ash. Water for irrigation is periodically replaced with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Baktofit, reducing its concentration by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Folk remedies - infusion of onion peels or marigold greens.
Infusion of onion peels - effective remedy prevention of "black leg"
Finding that several plants have become infected, sharply reduce watering to the required minimum, allowing the soil to dry well. The soil is loosened, introducing granules of Trichodermin, Glyokladin, Barrier in the process.
Video: methods of dealing with the "black leg"
Common pests affecting radishes
There are a lot of pests that can cause significant damage to radishes. These are insects that infect exclusively Cruciferous plants, and "omnivores" that attack most other garden crops.
Small (up to 0.3 cm in diameter) black bugs, shimmering golden in the sun, turn radish leaves into a sieve in a very short time. They have very good jumping ability, due to which they cover considerable distances relatively quickly. The pest waits out the winter in upper layers soil, under fallen leaves. Females of the cruciferous flea lay eggs on the leaves, the larvae hatching from them eat the roots of the plants. Insects don't like heat and high humidity air, in such weather their activity is sharply reduced.
In hot weather, especially if it rains frequently, the activity of the cruciferous flea beetle sharply decreases.
In order to scare off the cruciferous flea from the beds, the soil where radish shoots have appeared is sprinkled with a mixture of sifted ash with crushed dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper, mustard powder. You can simply prevent the pest from entering the garden bed if you tighten it with any air-permeable white covering material. During the growing season, radishes are treated with infusion of dandelion leaves, tomato tops or potatoes, diluted in water with vinegar (25-30 ml of essence per 10 l) every 5-7 days. Along the perimeter, the beds are surrounded by a naphthalene barrier.
The cruciferous flea does not tolerate the smell of vinegar
In the event of a mass invasion, chemicals are used. The best way Decis, Sherpa, Aktara, Lightning manifest themselves. An alternative is a flea shampoo for pets (40–50 ml per 10 l). You can also catch bugs manually by building something like a flag. A piece of cloth is attached in a stick, smeared with something sticky and passed over the tops of the radish.
Caterpillars of the belyanka butterfly
Females lay eggs on leaves, the first generation of larvae hatch at the end of June, the second in September. Striped greenish-yellow caterpillars are able to eat the plant in a few days, leaving only petioles from the leaves of the radish.
There is hardly a gardener who has never seen the whitewash butterfly, also known as the cabbage.
When the first butterflies appear in the garden, in order not to allow them to lay eggs, the soil and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a pungent characteristic odor (wormwood, tomato tops, rosemary, basil, sage). Of the chemicals, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide are used for the same purpose. You can also tighten the garden bed with a fine mesh, add a few drops of lavender or any citrus essential oil to the water for irrigation. Traps are hung next to it - cut-off plastic bottles filled with sugar syrup, honey or jam diluted with water. A similar effect is obtained with fly sticky tape.
Whitefish caterpillars are able to eat a plant in a matter of days.
Experienced gardeners advise to "deceive" butterflies by scattering pieces around the garden eggshell... Their insects are mistaken for "congeners" and fly further, being sure that "the place has already been taken."
Caterpillars are destroyed with the help of Kinmix, Sumi-Alpha, Aktellik. You can make them leave the garden by dusting the soil with wood ash mixed with any spice or spice - mustard, cinnamon, saffron, ginger.
Spring cabbage fly
It is capable of causing very serious harm to radish plantings. The peak of its activity occurs in the second half of May and early June (you can focus on the beginning of flowering of lilac and bird cherry). Just at this time, gardeners are actively planting culture. Females lay eggs in the upper layers of the soil, the larvae penetrate the roots and eat them out from the inside, severely damaging the emerging roots, then turn into petioles. The plant withers, the leaves acquire an unnatural bluish tint.
Adults of the cabbage fly do not harm plants, but this does not mean that they do not need to be dealt with.
To scare off the cabbage fly, sprinkle the garden bed with a mixture of tobacco dust with camphor and powdered dry bay leaf 3–5 days after the emergence of shoots. It is recommended to plant marigolds, parsley, celery, coriander along the perimeter and in the aisles. Materials with a rather coarse texture are used as mulch - wood chips, sawdust. Also, all measures are applicable to scare off white butterflies.
Cabbage fly larvae penetrate the plant tissue through the roots
In the event of a mass invasion of caterpillars, chemicals are used. Karate, Antio, Iskra-Bio, Rovikurt have recommended themselves in the best way. They also can't stand ammonia and vinegar. For 10 liters of water, 5 ml is enough.
It is very difficult not to notice the pest on the radish. Its red-black striped and mottled color contrasts very effectively with the bright green leaves. Females lay eggs on leaves, hatched from them individuals overwinter in fallen leaves and other plant debris. They come out of hibernation in the second half of April or at the beginning of May, the period of their activity lasts until August. Radish gets maximum damage in hot dry weather. Bed bugs feed on plant sap. Where they inflicted mechanical damage, "wounds" remain, gradually turning into areas of dead tissue with a yellowish border.
It is very difficult not to notice a cruciferous bug on a plant.
The experience of gardeners proves that the pest does not tolerate the smell of tansy. It is useful to plant this plant around the perimeter of a garden bed with radishes or periodically spray it with infusion of greenery. A good effect of dates is tampons moistened with kerosene or turpentine and spread out in the aisles.
Tansy planted nearby will effectively protect the radish garden from cruciferous ticks
Having found the first pests on the plant, you can simply collect them by hand. To make them go away, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusions of chamomile, onion husks. The most effective chemicals are Phosbecid, Belofos, Aktara.
An inconspicuous grayish-brown butterfly does no harm to plants. What can not be said about its larvae. Yellowish caterpillars, gradually changing their color to light green, eat out longitudinal tunnels in leaf tissues. Then they come to the surface and continue to feed on them. Affected leaf plates turn pale and dry. Insects wake up from hibernation as soon as the air warms up to 10 ° C, their activity does not stop until October-November. The maximum harm to radishes is caused in the heat with a prolonged absence of precipitation.
Cabbage moth is a very nondescript butterfly
Folk remedies in the fight against a pest do not give a special effect. The maximum that they can - slightly slow down the activity of the caterpillars. Recommend, for example, an infusion of dried lavender or the peel of any citrus. Therefore, in order to destroy them, you will have to resort to chemicals - Ambush, Nurell-D, Talkord. Adult butterflies are scared away using the methods recommended for whitewash control.
Folk remedies in the fight against cabbage moth larvae are ineffective
For some reason, they also have a special love for yellow... This can be used by making traps from pieces of cardboard or plywood of the appropriate shade, smeared with something sticky and taking a long time to dry.
The butterfly is dirty yellow in color with vague brown spots and strokes on the wings. It is nocturnal, so it is quite difficult to notice its appearance in time. Its caterpillars, as it were, scrape off the top layer of tissue from the leaves, leaving "grooves" - the gate for all kinds of infections and other pests. Characteristic lesions are especially noticeable on the wrong side of the sheet.
It is problematic to notice the appearance of the cabbage firefly - it is active mainly at night.
Adults are destroyed using traps. Into the cut plastic bottle place a light source, smearing its walls with something sticky. You can also use Bitoxibacillin, Dendrobacillin. Against caterpillars, the best effect is given by drugs Anometrin, Ripkord, Sumicidin, Gomelin. If you managed to notice their appearance on time, folk remedies help a lot, but they do not have any negative impact on fireball eggs. It is recommended to treat radish and soil in the garden with infusion of sifted wood ash, tomato tops.
The caterpillars of the cabbage fire can be driven out of the garden with the help of folk remedies, but the eggs will not suffer from this.
The caterpillar of the rape sawfly is greenish-gray or olive green with brown longitudinal stripes and a slightly lighter belly. The adult is extremely small - the body length does not exceed 6–8 mm, the body and limbs are of a bright saffron shade, the head is black, as if varnished. The pest eats up the leaves almost completely, leaving only the petioles. The radish dries up and dies, the roots are not formed. A gardener who does nothing can lose 80–95% of the total crop.
The rapeseed sawfly, as the name suggests, has a particular predilection for rapeseed, but also does not disdain radish.
For prophylaxis, before planting, radish seeds are soaked in a solution of Karate or Actellik for 10-15 minutes. Adults are scared away from planting with Bitoxibacillin. From folk remedies for the treatment of plants and soil, you can use infusions of chamomile, pine needles, tansy, aconite (the latter is very poisonous). Caterpillars effectively destroy Mospilan, Kinmix, Arrivo, Fury. If there are still few of them, you can spray the plantings diluted in calcined water or baking soda, mustard powder (40-50 g per 10 l).
Many common general-purpose insecticides are used to control rape sawfly larvae.
The bug looks pretty nice - lacquered black, in the sun it casts blue-green (this is what it owes its nickname "sparkle" or "sparkle"). It waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, as soon as the air warms up to 10–12 ° C, it wakes up and goes outside. As a rule, it causes the greatest damage to rapeseed (hence the name), eating away flower buds from the inside, but does not disdain other Cruciferous plants (even wild ones), in particular, radishes. Crop losses range from 20 to 70%. It depends on how purposefully the gardener is fighting the pest. The peak of its activity lasts from the second half of May to the end of June.
The rape blossom beetle reaches its peak in late spring or early summer.
Folk remedies in this case do not give any effect at all. Therefore, having found the first individuals on the plants, any insecticides from the pyrethroid group are used. The most popular of them are Karate, Zeon, Kinmiks, Fastak. You can try to "distract" him from the radish by planting some rapeseed or rapeseed nearby.
Literally 2-3 rapeseed bushes planted in the garden can distract the rape flower beetle from more important crops for the gardener
Slugs
Grayish-beige molluscs devoid of their shells, feeding on roots and radish greens. They can destroy young shoots completely. In adult specimens, they eat out large holes in leaf tissues, make through "tunnels" in root crops. A sticky trail remains on the surface, casting silvery in the sun. Slugs do not like heat and dry air, therefore they prefer to hide during the day (for example, under stones, boards, leaves), leading a predominantly nocturnal lifestyle.
Radish, damaged by slugs, sharply loses in keeping quality and presentability
It is quite difficult to remove slugs. It is much easier to prevent them from appearing in the garden. For this, several traps are built - deep containers dug into the soil, about half filled with chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, fermented compote or jam. The bases of root crops are surrounded by a "barrier" of wood ash, crushed chalk, sand, pine needles, ground nuts or eggshells. Any spicy aromatic herbs and other plants with a strong aroma are planted around the beds and in the aisles. You can also expand there fresh leaves nettle or wormwood.
Slugs do not even have minimal protection, so the needles serve as an insurmountable barrier for them.
Slugs have natural enemies - birds, frogs, hedgehogs. Attracting them to your own site is not so difficult. You can, for example, build a birdhouse or a small pond, periodically display plates of milk, and so on.
Having found several individuals, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusion of chili peppers or mustard powder diluted in water. There are, although extremely rare, cases of mass invasion of slugs. Then you can't do without chemicals. From the best side, the drugs Meta, Groza, Slizneed have proven themselves.
Video: ways to deal with slugs
Aphid
An extremely "omnivorous" pest that does not disdain the absolute majority of horticultural crops. Radish is no exception. Aphid is a small insect of greenish-yellow, pale green or black-brown... It feeds on plant sap, attacking it with whole colonies. Many insects cling to the underside of leaves, especially young ones. Affected areas of tissue become discolored, in the light they look like small translucent beige dots. The leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry.
Aphids affect the vast majority of horticultural crops
Aphids live in stable symbiosis with ants. It is impossible to get it out of the garden unless you simultaneously take care of the fight against these insects too.
It is impossible to remove aphids from the garden without first getting rid of the ants.
Aphids really do not like strong strong odors. That's why good neighbors for radishes there will be herbs, onions, garlic, fennel, marigolds, calendula, lavender. Many of them are good honey plants that attract attention. natural enemy aphids - ladybug. From their greens, infusions are prepared, with which plants and soil are sprayed. Other suitable raw materials are orange peels, pine needles, dry tobacco leaves, mustard powder.
There are also plants, on the contrary, that attract aphids. These are, for example, nasturtiums, petunias, viburnum, linden, bird cherry.
Having found the first individuals, the radishes are sprayed with household foam, green potash or tar soap. After about half an hour, it will need to be washed off clean water... Then apply the same infusions that were used for prophylaxis, reducing the intervals between treatments from 8-10 days to 6-8 hours.
In the event of a mass invasion of aphids, any general-purpose insecticides are used. The most popular drugs are Inta-Vir, Konfidor-Maxi, Iskra-Bio, Admiral, Tanrek.
Video: how to deal with aphids in the garden
The beetle infects plantings of Cruciferous plants, including radishes, in most of Russia, with the exception of Of the Far East and Eastern Siberia. Its color is very interesting - a bottle-green body with dark brown paws. The elytra seem to be embossed; eight dents, similar to dots, are clearly visible on the head. Beetles begin to show activity in early June.
Babanukha is also known by the nickname "shitty leaf beetle"
The pest gradually eats up the leaf plate, “scraping off” the layers of tissue. The leaves become thinner, acquire an unnatural rusty hue, and become as if "rotten". Through holes with ragged edges gradually appear. Females lay eggs in cracks in affected tissues, larvae hibernate in soil.
For prevention, sprinkle the soil in the garden with a mixture of ash with mustard powder and ground hot pepper. The radish itself is sprayed with vinegar diluted with water (15–20 ml of essence per 10 liters of water). Other popular folk remedies are infusion of tomato tops, chamomile, yarrow.
Cut stepchildren of tomatoes can be used to prepare an infusion that repels many pests
On plants, beetles are very conspicuous, so you can simply collect them by hand. But it takes a long time. It is much faster to shake them off on an oilcloth or newspaper spread on the garden bed. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning, when they are not very active. Of the insecticides, Sherpa, Angio, Fury, Aktara are the most effective.
Radish is one of the easiest crops to grow. Caring for her, in fact, is reduced to the necessary minimum. The vegetable rarely suffers from diseases and pests, but nevertheless it is not completely immune from this. To avoid losing a significant part or all of the crop, you need to regularly inspect the plantings for suspicious symptoms. And if any are identified, use the recommended folk remedies or chemicals. The best thing is not to forget about preventive measures. As a rule, there are enough of them to avoid infection.
Attacking a plant, pests can destroy the entire crop in just a few days.
Especially dangerous is the defeat of the tops - the growth of the root crop stops, and the plant dies.
How to determine what exactly struck a root crop - a disease or insects?
If a plant overcomes an ailment, it changes its physiological condition. Symptoms of various diseases can be:
- the appearance of a white oily coating on the stems, leaves, pedicels and testes;
- spherical growths on root crops, which eventually acquire a brown tint and begin to rot;
- black, light yellow or brown spots on radish leaves;
- root crops are covered with brown spots and are overgrown with gray fluff;
- the veins on the leaves or the base of the stem turn black, the leaves turn yellow and begin to fall off.
The causative agents of diseases with such manifestations are fungi and viruses.
Cruciferous flea
Black bugs moving in the garden with intense jumps making them easy to spot. The pest infects radish leaves, gnawing fragments and rapidly enlarging the affected area. The attacked radish stops growing and dries up.
The cruciferous flea is especially active in dry hot weather.
How to deal with a pest, how to treat a radish from a flea, are there folk remedies against this insect?
To protect the planting from flea attacks, you can resort to natural remedy. For the manufacture of a protective composition, it will be required in equal proportions:
- Ash.
- Tobacco dust.
- Mix the ingredients and scatter the resulting composition over the garden bed once every five to seven days.
In case of massive defeat and the inevitable need to use chemicals use drugs Tod, Alfatsin, Zolon, Kaiser, Arrivo.
The plant is processed according to the instructions. For example, Zolon, a drug in the form of an emulsion concentrate, is used as follows:
- Spraying is carried out during the growing season.
- The composition is diluted in a ratio of 1.6 ml per 2 liters of water. The resulting solution is enough for processing about three square meters.
- Carry out processing in the morning or evening in calm, dry weather.
- The duration of action of the drug is 15-20 days, pests die by 90% on the third day after spraying.
Belyanka
White butterfly laying its larvae in soil... The caterpillars that appear move to the leaves and destroy them. To disinfect plants, you need to prepare a composition of the following components:
- Mustard - 2 tablespoons
- Ground black pepper - 1 teaspoon.
- Table salt - 2 tablespoons.
- Water - 10 liters.
- Mix all the ingredients and spray the radish once a week.
Of the chemicals, Iskra M, Kemifos, Fitoferm are effective, they are used according to the instructions.
Cabbage moth
A gray-brown moth, about two centimeters in size. Insect larvae can be found on the underside of leaves... The hatched caterpillars feed on radish foliage.
To counteract the pest, you need to feed the plantings with superphosphate with calcium chloride.
If there is a massive defeat of plants, then to destroy the pests will have to resort to chemical processing Lepidocide and Bitoxibacillin, remembering that it is prohibited to carry out such treatments during fruit ripening.
Application of Lepidocide:
- The drug is prepared on the day of use, according to the instructions.
- To prepare the solution, only clean, warm water is used.
- Spraying is carried out in dry weather up to +35 degrees.
Cabbage fly
This gray-brown fly is not dangerous for radishes, unlike its larvae. They deform the root, gnawing holes in it. Caterpillars are also capable of completely destroying fresh leaves.
The insect does not tolerate naphthalene-based substances, slaked lime and camphor. Plants can be treated with formulations that include one of the listed components.
If the lesion exceeds 15%, use Lepidocide and Bitoxibacillin.
Garden scoop
Butterfly brown color, the larvae of which eat up the seedlings... As a result of such a defeat, the greens can grow, and the fruit does not develop, and remains a root.
To destroy the pest, you can use the following recipe:
- 500 grams of dried tops.
- 50 grams of grated laundry soap.
- 10 liters of water.
- Insist the tops in water in a warm place for four hours.
- Add soap before spraying.
- Process plantings in dry weather in the evening.
If a remedy made from natural ingredients does not work, you need to use chemicals. Zeta-cypermethrin, IntaVir have proven themselves well.
IntaVir solution is prepared at the rate of 1 tablet for 5-10 liters of water. The treatment is carried out through a sprayer.
Cabbage butterfly
A white butterfly, whose caterpillars feed on young leaves and eat away the flesh, leaving only veins.
You can fight pests by collecting them by hand. and processing the landing coniferous concentrate... For this you will need:
- Spruce or pine branches and cones - 200 grams.
- Hot water - 2 liters.
- Fold the raw material into an enamel container, fill it with water, leave at room temperature for a week.
- After the allotted time, strain the product.
- Dilute one part concentrate to ten parts water.
- Spray in the morning every two weeks.
If there is a need for processing chemical compositions, then Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin and Lepidocide are well suited.
Wireworm
Small, brown beetles with oblong bodies. Destroy tender sprouts. Adults feed on foliage, and the larvae feed on roots... Plants attacked by wireworms can develop rot and all kinds of fungal diseases. Radish rotting out from the inside.
A good escape from the wireworm is to bury onion peels in the garden bed when.
At the first symptoms of damage, the application of fertilizers based on ammonium sulfate can help.
If the plant is attacked en masse, use the drug Bazudin... To destroy the wireworm, it is introduced into each well at a dosage of 1 gram per square meter.
Stem nematode
These are filamentous microscopic transparent-whitish worms, up to 2 mm long. Their target - radish juice, can nest in the root collar of the fruit, roots or stem. Damaged radishes wither and die.
Marigolds are effective against nematodes:
- The whole plant is dried in the open air.
- Half a bucket of chopped marigolds are poured with ten liters of water and insisted for three days.
- Add 50 grams of laundry soap to the resulting composition, filter the solution.
- It is necessary to spray the plant weekly.
To combat nematodes, insecticides are used: Dimethoat, Rogor, Vidat... The use of these drugs makes sense only for young seedlings.
Plants are processed by spraying in the morning or evening hours. For best results, choose a warm, windless day.
Rapeseed sawfly
Insect, about 8 mm long, yellow-orange in color with two black spots on the back. The body is shiny with two pairs of transparent wings, yellow at the base and with a black border around the edges. Female rape sawfly lays eggs in the second half of May - early June on the underside of a radish leaf. The hatched caterpillars eat out numerous holes in the tops and lead the plant to death.
In the fight against the pest, an infusion of black henbane will help. You need to take:
- 500 grams of dry leaves.
- 2 liters of water.
- Insist 12 hours.
- Strain the liquid through a sieve.
- Dilute the resulting composition with eight liters of water, add grated soap and process the beds.
Of the chemicals, Dendrobacillin, Entobacterin are effective.
Entobacterin is dissolved in warm water, adhering to a dosage of 10 g per liter of water. Processing is carried out using a spray bottle.
Cruciferous bug
Small black bugs with bright orange stripes feed on radish juice and young shoots dry out. To protect plantings from pests, you can prepare the following solution:
- 500 grams of common dope leaves.
- 10 liters of water.
- 2-3 tablespoons of crushed laundry soap.
- Mix the ingredients and leave for 12 hours.
- Spray the tops every five days.
Phosbecid, Actellik are used for chemical treatment. The drugs are used according to the instructions.
Summer cabbage fly
The wormy fruits of the radish are the result of the vital activity of the summer cabbage fly... It is difficult to detect harmful insect larvae - they are whitish, up to 8 mm in length. Destroy interior stems, make moves and move towards the fruit.
A folk remedy in the fight against this insect includes:
- Salt - 200 grams.
- Ten liters of water.
The salt is diluted with water and the beds are watered. After that, the ground must be sprinkled with ash.
Effective insecticides in the fight against summer cabbage fly- Karbofos, Zemlin, Rovikurt.
Prophylaxis
To prevent the appearance of pests, you can also carry out the following procedures:
- spray wood ash, slaked lime and tobacco dust in equal proportions on the beds with radish;
- spray the radish with a decoction of green wormwood;
- spray only the seedlings that have appeared with a vinegar solution prepared at the rate of 1 glass of 9% vinegar per ten liters of water.
At the end of the season, you need to clean up plant residues., since it is in them that part of the pests winters. Closer to frost, the ground in the garden must be dug up so that the larvae and adult insects die.
Adequate crop control, prevention of pests and, if necessary, timely control measures taken will help the gardener to win the fight for a rich radish harvest.
We offer you to watch a video about radish pests and methods of dealing with them:
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