Today, the use of recycled waste to make secondary materials is very popular. These products include chipboard, which is used today as a basis for the construction of various types of products.
This substance has good technical characteristics, which made it possible to replace it, to some extent, even with wood. Chipboard is processed with special tools that allow you to get parts of certain sizes and shapes. More details can be found where you can also purchase these mechanisms.
We use solutions
Chipboard is cut very often, since in production it is made with sheets of a certain length. Of these, many types are subsequently made different products ranging from ordinary partitions to sophisticated furniture. This material is often coated (laminated) special paint.
You can process the end with several substances:
- 1. Waterproof glue... This is done primarily in order to protect it from moisture.
- 2. Special sealants. These substances have the same purpose as the previous type.
- 3. Paint. If you need to inject beautiful view product, then the end can be coated with any paint, matching it to the color of the object.
We use a special tape
All manufactured chipboard products always have an attractive appearance, but even they have ends. To hide them, use a special edge tape. It is attached to the edge with a special tool.
Such products can also be mounted at home. This material adheres to the end of the chipboard when heated. This property is used in technological processes.
At home, this can be done with the help of an iron, with which this product is heated and attached to the edge of the workpiece.
To give the product an aesthetic shape, the butt end can be sanded with a special tool and covered with special paint and varnish. In such cases, you can apply and different types putties that are designed to work with this type of materials.
Edge processing is a very demanding process, since in most cases not only depends on it appearance, but also the operating time of the entire product. To receive quality products from chipboard should only be used special tools, which will greatly facilitate the work and allow you to create modern beautiful products.
Video instruction for gluing the edge on chipboard end to help you:
The adhesive tape prevents the surface layer of the board from splitting when sawing. Hand saw must be attached with a maximum slope.
The scalloped edge is a sad sight. It is especially striking on the white painted slabs.
Chips and synthetic resin create a strong bond when pressed, but with certain processing of the board, the chips can split. For example, along the edge of the cut, in the place of drilling, when planing and rasping. The fibers natural wood longer and tighter connected to each other. This is why chipboard needs to be handled more carefully.
How to saw particle boards
Almost any saw will work for these purposes. It is only necessary to guide it at a very acute angle to the surface of the plate, that is, placing the saw almost flat against the surface. Guide the circular and bow saws at a low feed rate with only light pressure. This will also reduce the risk of a brittle cut line. It is advisable, of course, to use the saw with the finest teeth. Additional protection there may also be duct tape that is pulled along the cut line. This is generally recommended for coated particle boards.
Another tip: saw slowly. Excessive haste can lead to such a result that the uneven, chipped edge of one part forms an ugly joint with another. By the way, the coating can be protected from splitting if you cut it sharp knife- the deeper the better.
Drilling, rasping and planing
Dumb or working with limited speed drills tend to split the edges of the hole being drilled. Only by choosing a good drill and guiding the tool correctly can damage be avoided.
With an even, clean cut, additional processing is not required. And here Circular Saw may leave bumps that need to be removed with a rasp or plane.
The rasp (or plane) is guided along the edge carefully, as when working with wood, and from the outside to the inside, so that the shavings do not break out, and the edge after stripping does not seem even more sloppy.
For slabs covered with foil, a plane is more suitable. Anyone who finds it too difficult to work with a plane can use a file.
Surface treatment
There are two ways to decorate the surface of wood and chipboard products - varnishing or cladding. Varnish is usually coated wooden surfaces, chipboards for aesthetic reasons are extremely rare, only when it is necessary to "refine" the not very impressive appearance of the board or the finished product.
The surface should be putty before varnishing.
Even a factory sanded chipboard surface needs to be putty and sanded before being varnished. Tiny, barely noticeable damage can clearly show up under the varnish film, and this will only worsen the appearance of the product.
The putty is applied evenly with a spatula, and after drying, the surface is treated with sandpaper. The result of this preparatory work an absolutely flat surface should become, and then one layer of varnish is enough to form a flawless film.
If, after applying the varnish, any errors are found, then before recoating the surface should be lightly sanded with sandpaper.
Glue the cover.
The choice of coatings for particle boards is very large. If you have special requests regarding color, it is better to use film.
Films are available in a wide colors and with a variety of decor, moreover, they are usually treated with an adhesive composition, which simplifies the work on finishing the slabs. Since the film coating is very thin, the supporting surface must be carefully sanded before stretching the film.
Laminate sheet, thicker and more abrasion resistant. It is glued with a special glue, which is applied to the supporting surface of the plate and to the coating.
The laminated coating makes the chipboard attractive and at the same time protects it from various influences.
Surface protection
If you bought or made furniture from chipboards, the composition of which you do not know, then it is better to take additional measures to protect your health.
Protection with varnish.
Formaldehyde fumes can be stopped by re-coating the furniture. This layer should be thick enough. So, the lacquer coating, at least in two layers, prevents further evaporation of formaldehyde.
Films and laminates also protect the surface. Here you need to pay attention to the joints: they should be as tight as possible.
Plywood can also become a protective material, but not any. Some types of plywood are made using adhesive composition, in which all the same formaldehyde is present. Therefore, it is advisable to process the plywood and varnish it.
Matter and wallpaper.
Cloth and wallpaper are absolutely unsuitable materials for protecting against formaldehyde emissions. They are porous and therefore cannot serve as reliable protection.
Carpets, as well as the glue used to install them, can also emit formaldehyde. If the relevant services during the inspection found an increased concentration of vapors hazardous to health, it is necessary to find out what kind of material is the source, before blaming the chipboard for everything and starting a new treatment of their surface.
Edges
A narrow strip of plastic is applied to the edge. The iron promotes adhesion.
The cut from chipboard does not look very nice, and more importantly, it exposes the loose, most vulnerable inner layer. Also, impact and strong pressure can damage the cut edges. Therefore, the edge must be protected.
The simplest, but in most cases enough reliable protection- glue a plastic tape with an adhesive coating or a veneer plate using a not very hot iron.
Wooden planks.
The most stressed edges of the slab need to be better protection... Thin wood strips will help to provide it. In color, they should be in harmony with the coating of the slab. After gluing the strips, separately or together with the board, they must be varnished or some other protective compound.
Even the 5mm strip is an effective edge protection. A wider plank will also prevent the slab from bending.
Popular and demanded building material. It is actively used in the furniture industry, as well as in construction for wall and floor cladding. Such love of builders to this material is due to its low cost and excellent properties. Chipboard is a board that is made from pressed wood chips, the big disadvantage of which is high moisture absorption. Moisture leads to deformation and further destruction of the chipboard. The solution to this problem will be chipboard processing... Let's consider in more detail how to process chipboard from moisture.
Chipboard processing is carried out in three directions:
- chip handling
- processing of the front surface of chipboard
- chipboard processing - end protection
Swarf handling
Such chipboard processing produced at the time of production. For this, shavings for chipboard manufacturing impregnated with formaldehyde resins. Such resins tightly glue the chips, while preventing the penetration of moisture into the inside of the board. For the same purposes, urea melamine resins are used; they adhere the fibers more tightly and, accordingly, have higher water-repellent properties.
Liquid paraffin can also be produced from moisture at the production stage. By impregnating the chips with it, you can protect the board from moisture penetration.
How to treat chipboard from moisture? One of the main and priority issues in the production of this material.
How to protect chipboard from moisture:
- lamination. In the process of lamination, a melamine film is applied to the prepared and sanded surface of the chipboard under the influence of high temperature (200 degrees) and high pressure(25 MPA). The surface is polymerized. with the help of lamination, it helps to protect the material from moisture, sunlight, temperature extremes and various damages.
- Lamination. The lamination process is similar to kelp, but more gentle. in this case, it occurs at a lower temperature (up to 150 degrees) and lower pressure (up to 7 MPa). The film is applied under pressure to the chipboard surface treated with glue. Lamination is less resistant to moisture than lamination, and also suffers from various mechanical influences. The film can flake off, swell and crack.
- Surface painting. using paint is one of the most affordable methods of protecting it from moisture. With this method, you can process the chipboard yourself at home. It is enough to follow a number of simple rules:
- Before painting, it is necessary to clean the chipboard from dirt and dust, grind it
2. Then cover with a layer of heated drying oil
4. Now you can proceed to coloring. The paint is applied in several layers, after waiting for each of them to dry completely.
- Pasting of chipboard with polymer film or polymer plastic. This type of chipboard processing involves the application of a protective layer on the surface of the material in the form of a film or polymer. For such purposes, polyvinyl chloride films are most often used. Before gluing It to the surface, it is necessary to thoroughly clean It, because even the smallest particle of dust can spoil the appearance of the material with unevenness and roughness. Pasting a chipboard with a film is not a durable method of protection. The film has low protective characteristics and suffers from temperature drops.
- Chipboard veneering. This method consists in facing the chipboard surface with natural veneer. This method not very popular, as the veneer is not resistant to mechanical damage. It will be difficult to keep track of veneered chipboard.
Chipboard processing - end protection
Another vulnerability for the penetration of moisture into the chipboard, the ends are. Therefore, special attention should be paid to their processing. How to cover the chipboard?
Chipboard processing on the sides is carried out using:
- PVA glue. The ends are thoroughly coated with glue, allowed to dry and then another layer is applied.
Silicone.
- Building sealant
- Furniture varnish
- Liquid paraffin
Used for flooring can be done with heated wood glue mixed with sawdust. This is a simple and inexpensive old-fashioned method.
We hope the information on how to treat chipboard from deformation and moisture will be useful to you.
Irina Zheleznyak, Special correspondent of the Internet edition "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"
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Chipboard is an excellent structural material, but not very attractive in comparison with wood, and is also particularly susceptible to the influence of factors external environment... Particleboard products receive some protection even during the manufacturing process. For this, all kinds of impregnations and additives are used. However, under intensive operating conditions, such factory measures are not enough, therefore it is recommended to additionally protect the material. How to protect chipboard, as well as process it finishing materials, will be discussed below.
Surface treatment of slabs
Facial and interior slabs have the most large areas therefore, if they are not protected, they carry the most moisture. Along with the protection, you can decorate the material. Below are a few of these techniques.
Lamination
The lamination process is the finishing of the chipboard with paper-resin films. The cladding is carried out at high temperatures (150-200 degrees) and high pressure (25-30 MPa). The protective and decorative layer is due to the spreading of hot resin over the surface. The resin then polymerizes to form a solid, uniform coating.
If the technological process is followed, a reliable adhesion occurs between the chipboard and the resin. During lamination, a certain surface texture is created - usually it is gloss or. Laminated surfaces are resistant to mechanical stress, moisture, ultraviolet radiation and high temperatures.
Lamination
During lamination, the chipboard is covered with an adhesive layer, on which hard paper-resin unvarnished films are then laid. The difference between laminating and laminating is that when laminating decorative coating glued to the board ready-made. For example, wood grain embossing is done in advance. These films are called "finishing" films.
As in the case of lamination, the laminating method also uses increased pressure and high temperature. However, the parameters in this case are more gentle: temperature - from 20 to 150 degrees, pressure - from 5 to 7 MPa.
The disadvantage of laminating is the instability of the coating to mechanical stress and moisture. Such a surface is easily scratched and swollen. Lamination is used mainly in the manufacture of inexpensive furniture, as well as for the production of parts that are not subject to aggressive effects environment(for example, rear walls cabinet).
Paint coating
Unlaminated chipboard can be coated in several layers paint material... The sequence of work is presented below:
- remove dust and dirt from the sheet;
- coat a sheet of chipboard with heated linseed oil;
- again we coat the sheet, but this time with cold linseed oil (a thin crust should appear);
- apply the first layer of paint;
- after the first layer has dried, apply the second.
Laminate finishing
Laminate is a polymer that contains filler niches. Fabric, paper, veneer and other materials are used as a filler. At the heart of the manufacture of paper-layered filler is paper. It acts as a reinforcing layer, and also gives the laminated polymer plasticity, strength and visual appeal.
Finishing begins with cutting off chipboard sheets of the required dimension. Dirt and dust are removed from the sheets using compressed air and brushes. If the dirt is not removed before painting, good adhesion will not work.
Gluing facing material It is carried out by the method of direct pressing of a paper-laminated polymer, on which glue and chipboard are preliminarily applied. Pressing can be done hot (urea or PVA based adhesives are used) or cold (PVA dispersion contact adhesives are used). In practice, cold pressing is not used very often, since the process requires large areas, and the productivity is relatively low.
Finishing is completed with postforming. The task is to give the plastic bends and other irregular shapes... The process is carried out on special equipment at an elevated temperature.
Pasting with polymer films
The process of applying polymer films is similar to decorative cladding plastics. The difference lies in the materials used. In this case, we are talking about a thermoplastic film applied by pressing onto a chipboard treated with an adhesive composition.
For chipboard finishes PVC films are used. Occasionally, polystyrene and acrylic films are used.
Finishing with polymer films is carried out on the same technological equipment, on which finishing materials such as veneer or paper-laminated polymers are applied. The veneering process can be either hot or cold.
The advantage of polymer cladding is the ability to process shaped parts. Nevertheless, the use of polymer films has limited potential, since the coating does not have high physical and mechanical properties, and is also unstable to temperature effects.
Vacuum pressing
Vacuum (or as it is called otherwise - membrane) pressing is a technological process during which furniture is covered decorative film... The main advantage of the method is the ability to cover complex-shaped parts.
For example, membrane pressing can be used to veneer furniture self made with all kinds of grooves, cutouts, miniature details, etc. The part is placed in vacuum press, where it is tightly, repeating the surface relief, is enclosed by a heated polyvinyl chloride film.
Veneering
The correct name for the process is veneering. However, the term "veneering" is often used in everyday life. Natural veneer you can finish both chipboard and furniture board... Veneered furniture is more high quality, in comparison with laminated. However, it is quite difficult to maintain the safety of veneered furniture, since veneer is not as strong as laminate.
Chipboard or MDF worktop
For finishing chipboard sheet or MDF will need plastic (laminated paper, polycarbonate, polystyrene).
Work progress:
- We cut out the necessary parts from chipboard, connect them with a stapler.
- The joints between the parts of the chipboard base must be the same. If this is not the case, level them with sandpaper.
- We make facing for the ends.
- We cut the facing part using the grinder.
- We glue the finishing material and fix it with light blows of a rubber hammer.
- Install the end plate flush with the bottom edge of the table top.
- At the same time, we glue the base and the apron with glue.
- We use spacers when installing laminate flooring. After installing the sheet, remove the dividers.
- Smooth the surface with a roller.
- Using a router, cut a hole under the sink.
- When the structure is assembled, we grind all the edges.
Protection of joints and edges
Any liquid always searches and finds the lowest place on the surface. The joints are deepened and are therefore vulnerable to water ingress. A considerable number of joints are found in cabinet furniture, where the main structural material is chipboard.
Because of high humidity and frequent contact with liquids is especially vulnerable kitchen furniture... Sink, countertop, furniture next to kitchen stove Are the most frequently damped pieces of furniture in the home. An example is the part of the countertop that comes into contact with the mixer. Sooner or later, the tap leaks, which means that unprotected chipboard will inevitably get wet and collapse.
To protect the joints, these places are first cleaned and dried with a hairdryer. Then we apply PVA glue to the joints, and when it dries up, we treat the protected surface with silicone or, as an option, with construction sealant.
If there is no pallet in the cupboard, then sooner or later the liquid flowing from the damp dishes will destroy the chipboard. Therefore, the material must be degreased and then treated with a sealant.
The seams are sealed with sanitary silicone of the corresponding color for the furniture. This will help prevent mold from growing on the furniture.
In those places of the edge of the table top, where there is no lamination, we install end or connecting strips. These items can be made of metal or plastic. The planks are not ideal protection, so the edges still need to be pre-sealed with a sealant. Another common method of protecting chipboard is to apply PVA glue or furniture varnish to the edges.
Floor joint protection
The main difficulty in protecting joints on the floor is that such slabs are subject to increased mechanical stress and are constantly slightly displaced under load. Because of this, the putty does not adhere well to the chipboard.
To ensure the protection of the joints on the floor, the seams are processed epoxy resin mixed with sawdust... Moreover, the sawdust must be very small - they must be sieved in advance.
Note! The epoxy-sawdust composition sets extremely quickly. Therefore, do not knead too much putty at once.
A mixture of epoxy and sawdust will reliably protect the joints, but the cost of such a solution is quite high. You can replace the epoxy with wood glue. V hot glue you need to add sawdust, and then process the seams with the resulting composition. If done correctly, the effect will be even better than with epoxy, as the glue penetrates deeper.
After processing the seams, the chipboard joints will become more resistant to moisture and, just as important, they will stop “playing” with each other. If you finish the chipboard with linoleum, you can no longer worry about the safety of the plates.
After processing the seams, it will take several days for the putty to dry. At this time, it is impossible to walk on the slabs so as not to break the joints.
Coating chipboard with protective and finishing materials in many cases requires certain experience and qualifications, and sometimes the presence of special equipment. If there is no confidence in own forces, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.
Particleboard is one of the most affordable building materials, so many are interested in the question of how to impregnate this material from moisture? And, if in the summertime moisture gets on the floor is unlikely, then in winter it is formed in any case. In this article, we will give good advice about how and what to soak chipboard from moisture?
Oil varnish or drying oil
V Soviet times the best way was, and now - special impregnating substances. Naturally, this does not mean that it is impossible to still use drying oil as a protective agent against moisture. It is allowed to use it, but to achieve high level protection is almost impossible. Yes, and a large amount of mixture is needed, while the working procedure will have to be done several times.
Polyurethane mixture
One of the most popular means for processing chipboard is a polyurethane mixture, which is similar in composition to a primer. The impregnation is based on organic solvents and polymers, which, during processing, penetrate deep into the pores of the material. At the same time, the level of strength building material increases significantly.
Nitrocellulose varnish
There is another way to protect chipboard from moisture - nitrocellulose varnish. Its protective effect is similar to polyurethane varnish: it forms a kind of protective coating on the surface of the product, preventing the penetration of moisture, while resistance to damage is equivalent to the maximum indicator. A significant advantage of nitrocellulose varnish over its predecessor is the application of the substance without preliminary preparation of the workplace, but to achieve better results we strongly recommend priming the chipboard.
To significantly protect chipboard products, you need to use a combined protection method. It is best if it not only consists of an impregnation step with deep penetration of the substance, but also includes the application of additional paints and varnishes.