Photo of royal pelargonium and plant care at home. Royal Pelargonium - the original plant for a vibrant landscape

Royal Pelargonium- it's the most beautiful plant, which attracts attention with its charming flowers and insanely beautiful flowering. In the people, this geranium is also called royal, English large-flowered, domestic and noble. This type of pelargonium is unpretentious in care, but it requires attention and special growing conditions, which are important to observe if you want to grow truly magnificent beauty on your windowsill.

flower description

Pelargonium grandiflora is bush about 60 cm high, which is distinguished by herbaceous erect stems, rich green leaves and large inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter. Pelargonium royal flowers in diameter can reach 7 cm. They consist of petals, which, depending on the variety, have a variety of colors and shapes. Simple or terry buds have smooth or wavy edges. Their color can be monochromatic or bicolor, when there are contrasting inclusions inside the flower.

At good care for royal geraniums, you can achieve its continuous flowering for three to four months. Blooming flowers of the plant have many shades- from white to dark purple. Depending on the variety, the leaves can be large or small, but they all have the same shape. Each rough leaf has small notches.




















Royal Geranium Care

A flowering plant loves light, so the best place for it would be a stand equipped near the south window. You can put a flower pot directly on the windowsill, but only on the east or west windows. Direct sunlight will not harm geraniums, but on too hot days, burns can form on the leaves.

On the northern windowsills and in the shade of the royal pelargonium will not be missed Sveta. With insufficient lighting, the leaves on the bush become small, and the buds may not appear at all, which, in fact, will be the answer to the question of why the royal geranium does not bloom.

The room where the flower grows must be regularly ventilated, but so that there are no drafts. In the warm season, a pot with a bush can be put on outdoor balcony or to the garden.

royal geranium known to home plant lovers as the "Royal Pelargonium" and is famous for its capriciousness. Country of origin - South America, and therefore pelargonium is accustomed to a hot climate with humid air. The rules for caring for her at home can be found on this page. The classic royal geranium is a flower or small dense shrub with branching stems. The leaf shape is round, with slightly lobed edges and a characteristic smell of geraniums. The flowers look like spherical umbrellas, the stems are thin and long. Their color depends on the variety: from snow-white to dark purple. At home, royal geranium grows up to 50 cm. proper care It will bloom from early spring to late summer. Look at the photo of the royal geranium variety intended for indoor breeding:


How to plant a royal geranium

All varieties of pelargonium or royal geranium are propagated by cuttings. It is recommended to cut them in summer or autumn, you need to cut the stem at an angle of 45 degrees just below the internodes. Lower leaves and buds must also be removed. Before you properly plant royal geraniums, you need to prepare high-quality cuttings and soil with suitable properties. The cuttings need special care. For example, they cannot be placed in water - due to high humidity they can rot quickly. Experts recommend simply sprinkling the cut with a mixture of Kornevin and charcoal, after which the plant should be “dry” for at least an hour. For the first planting, a pot of small diameter is suitable, on the bottom of which you need to put a layer of sherds - this will provide sufficient drainage. For planting royal geraniums, it is suitable as store land for ornamental plants, and the usual mixture of sand and peat in a ratio of 1: 1. For rooting, you can use peat tablets: they are soaked for a few minutes in warm water. A recess is made in the center of the tablet, where the cutting is inserted. After the roots appear from the drainage hole, the cuttings can be transplanted into a pot. After planting, you need to water the earth around the edge so that the substrate is not too wet. Cuttings take root quickly, the first shoots usually form within 4 weeks. After that, you can slightly increase watering, but you still need to avoid excessive soil moisture. Only 8 weeks after planting, the young royal geranium can be looked after as an adult plant. After rooting, geraniums are planted in ordinary soil on a compost basis. Young royal geranium grows quite actively, over time, roots will begin to appear from the drainage hole of the flower pot. This is a sure sign that the plant needs a transplant. Typically, mature geraniums need to be repotted into new soil every two years. During transplantation, it is worth cutting thick shoots and roots in half, and carefully shake off the old earth from the rhizome. land in flower pot- completely update. If the transplant pot is reused, it should be disinfected with a special solution (chlorine is suitable).

Care for royal geraniums at home

Caring for royal geraniums at home is not at all difficult and any grower can handle it. Despite the fact that pelargonium is a moisture-loving plant, excessive watering can lead to diseases and infections, so it is important to adhere to certain watering rules. An adult bush will have enough 50 ml of water for one watering, the soil should not be too wet. In winter, it is enough to water the royal geranium once a day, in the summer - twice: before 10 am and in the evening after the sun is no longer scorching. As a top dressing, you can use a weak solution of iodine: one drop per 1 liter of water. A small amount (about 50 ml) is spilled over the walls of the pot. Be extremely careful: feeding too much can seriously damage the roots. Fertilize the plant once every two weeks from late March to mid-November. The ideal temperature for keeping a royal pelargonium flower ranges from +18 - +25 degrees. High and low temperatures, drafts and dry air from a heater can quickly kill a plant. In the summer, royal geraniums can be taken out to the balcony, but it is important to ensure that they are not exposed to direct sunlight - burns may occur. The plant loves light, but at the same time it needs shade. To provoke an active ovary of buds, in winter, geraniums can be placed in a cool, well-lit place. In general, from October to March there comes a sleepy period for royal geraniums. The ideal temperature at this time is about +15 degrees, care can be limited only by watering. Before the sleepy period, it is better to remove flowers, buds and cut off 1/3 of the shoots. Faded flowers are recommended to be removed - they have already lost their beauty, and only in vain they take away strength from the plant. In addition, it stimulates the active growth of new flowers. You can remove them after brown spots appear on the petals. But it is worth removing the flowers if you do not need pelargonium seeds - the seed setting occurs precisely in the inflorescences.

The variety of varieties of royal pelargonium and their photos

The genus Pelargonium includes more than 280 different plant species, the most common variety is the royal geranium. Popular varieties include large-flowered pelargoniums (the Angels group) or violet flowers. The flowers of these varieties are similar to pansies, the upper petals are somewhat larger than the small ones, there are veins on the petals. The following are the most popular varieties royal pelargonium and their photos - the variety of species is simply not possible to present in one article. Candy Flowers - these varieties belong to large-flowered pelargonium. Breeders bred a group of varieties due to the crossing of two types of pelargonium, which is intended for cultivation on open ground. The peculiarity of this variety is earlier flowering, the flowers are larger than those of the "Angels" group.
Pelargonium radiant (Pelargonium fulgidum) is a tall bushy pelargonium, the size of which is slightly smaller than that of the royal ones. The main difference is more deeply dissected leaves with a sharp spicy smell. Flowers without aroma, the predominant color of the flowers of this variety of pelargonium is red.

Possible problems with royal geraniums

With proper care, royal geranium rarely gets sick, but some possible problems can even affect experienced flower growers. Rotting plant legs most often provoke excessive watering. If the flower has already begun to rot, it is impossible to help it and it is better to remove the affected plant as soon as possible. Not only the geranium itself is quickly affected, but also the soil in which it is located, so the soil will have to be thrown away. Pests can also attack royal geraniums: aphids, mites, whiteflies. If this has affected your plant, the underside of the affected leaves must be washed with an infusion of tobacco with green soap or an infusion of ordinary pharmacy chamomile. In order to get rid of the whitefly, you can use special medicines ("Fufafon", "Aktellik", "Bison"). Often, the first thing to signal problems is the leaves. If they turn yellow, and the edges of the flower are dry, this is a signal of a lack of moisture. Yellowed leaves warn that geraniums have little light or space in a pot. If the leaves wither, then perhaps you have over-moistened the ground. If it is time to bloom and the geranium has not bloomed, the problem needs to be identified urgently, otherwise flowering may be inhibited in the future. Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom? The reason for this may be a lack of light, low temperature (below +10), the soil may be too fertile, or the pot may be too large. In addition, untimely pruning of royal geraniums may be the reason. Sometimes geraniums can be prone to "rust", during which brown or yellow spots appear on the leaves. Shoots and flowers may also be affected. It is important to monitor the condition of the plant and remove diseased parts as soon as possible. Remember: if the plant is sick, it is better to wait with reproduction. Problems can quickly move to the cuttings.
In general, the plant is not whimsical, it reproduces well, grows well and does not create any problems for its owners. In order for royal geranium to please the eye, it is necessary to follow the recommendations of experienced flower growers, which will help protect pelargonium from problems.
  1. Provide the plant with good drainage and adequate lighting.
  2. Don't feed too much: it's better to underfeed than overfeed.
  3. Remove diseased plants promptly and never reuse the soil.
  4. Water your geranium only when the soil really needs it.

From the article you will learn how to properly care for royal pelargonium at home so that your flower does not dry out and wilted, you will learn all the intricacies of geranium content, how to feed, replant and propagate.

This unpretentious plant brought to us from India and South Africa has more than three hundred varieties and has long been widely used as a sophisticated hanging decoration of residential premises and private courtyards.

You will also learn the etymology of the names geranium and pelargonium, as well as what it is connected with.
And many more interesting facts about this charming flower.

Cultivation and care

Growing and caring for royal geraniums is not particularly difficult, but in order to achieve long-term flowering, you need to know some of the features of the plant. In winter, pelargonium is severely lacking in light and it stretches out, therefore, in the spring, formative pruning should be carried out, while replacing the top layer of soil with a fresh substrate, without transplanting.

In summer, this aristocrat should not be taken out into the garden, she does not tolerate strong streams fresh air and rain. Nevertheless, it can be put on closed areas: a balcony, a terrace or a veranda.

Watering

Royal geranium often gets sick from waterlogging, but it is also impossible to allow the earth to dry out. Watering should be done only with settled water at room temperature, and even better - boiled. To avoid compaction of the earth, which this plant does not like so much, it should be watered through the pan, the roots will absorb exactly as much moisture as the plant needs.

winter calm

Growing and caring for royal geraniums should include winter period dormancy with a content temperature not higher than 15 degrees and poor watering. It is at this time that flower buds are laid. There will be no winter dormancy - there will be no flowering.

Transfer

The royal geranium is transplanted in the spring, but not every year, but only when the root system of the plant begins to climb out through the drainage hole of the pot. The new pot should not be much larger than the old one, because the royal geranium, like all geraniums, blooms best in cramped containers. During the growing season, the plant should be fed with a special fertilizer for pelargoniums twice a month.

  • When transplanting your queen to the bottom of the planting container, be sure to put a decent layer of drainage.
  • If you do not use special purchased soils, then prepare the planting mixture yourself: take garden soil, add peat and sand.
  • Geranium does not like dense soils. Before transplanting, it is advisable to scald the prepared substrate.

pruning

In winter, due to the lack of sunlight, the shoots of the royal pelargonium are drawn out. To maintain the shape of the bush and increase bushiness, it should be pinched, and if the shoot has already stretched out, then cut it off. By March, pinching and pruning must be stopped, as in April the plant will begin to pick up buds.

In summer, pinching is carried out to maintain the compactness of the shape of the bush after flowering. And during flowering, faded flowers are carefully removed.

reproduction

The queen of pelargoniums is propagated vegetatively by cuttings. And, if our grandmothers rooted zonal pelargonium in a glass of water, then this aristocrat will not be accepted like that, her stems will soften and then rot.

The most suitable period is the end of August, the beginning of September, when the summer heat subsides. The tops of the shoots are cut off by about three knots and let them weather for a couple of hours. Then they are sprinkled with peat-sand mixture or sand, watered with heteroauxin or root. Cassettes or bowls are placed in partial shade.

  • Watering rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium should be carried out moderately, only when the substrate dries.
  • It is impossible to pour on the stems, it is better to direct a trickle of water around the perimeter of the pot.
  • When the cuttings are accepted, an increase will appear, which should be pinched over 3-4 pairs of leaves.
  • Then they are transplanted into the prepared planting mixture, looked after according to the rules and wait for flowering the next summer.

Increasing flowering time with grafting

The flowering period of the queens is shorter than that of the zonal ones. Their bush is also not so tall. And it is known that inoculations of plants of different strength of growth change the nature of growth. So, by grafting medium-sized varieties of fruit-bearing plants onto a dwarf rootstock, we can achieve earlier fruiting than on our own roots.

In addition, the grafted stalk, as a rule, is less inclined to stretch and more inclined to branch, growing a compact bush. These qualities are needed for grafting royal pelargonium onto a very tall zonal one.

At zonal pelargonium the crown is cut off at a height of about 60 cm. This remaining bole should be ripe. At the scion (royal pelargonium stalk about 10 cm), the lower end is cut off with a wedge with a sharp knife. Both branches should be approximately the same diameter.

  • In the zonal bole, a V-shaped incision of 2 cm is made at the top.
  • A pointed scion is inserted into this split, the branches are aligned flush with each other along the edges of the split.
  • Then the resulting joint is wrapped with a grafting film.
  • It is better to start wrapping from top to bottom with a slight overlap, capturing a little both the scion and the bole.

For the growth of the grafted bush, it is desirable to establish a support, constantly remove the kidneys on the bole. If suddenly the royal pelargonium immediately picked up buds, then it is better to pinch them off, otherwise all the forces will be spent on flowering, and not fusion.

So, having considered the features of caring for royal pelargonium at home, we focused on the differences in cultivation and reproduction from the previously common type of zonal pelargonium.

An interesting way to increase the duration of flowering is proposed - grafting.

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Royal Geranium Care

I bought a royal geranium in the market from one grandmother. I really liked its flowering, which lasted quite a long time and, most importantly, this flower did not cause me any trouble. But despite this, there are still some rules that must be observed. True, there are very few of them.

Brief information about the care of royal geraniums

  • Temperature: normal;
  • Lighting: loves when there is a lot of light. Even prefers direct sunlight.
  • Watering: plentiful. But between watering, the topsoil should dry out.
  • Humidity: not demanding. Even afraid of getting water on the leaves.
  • Transplant: in the spring, if necessary.
  • Reproduction: cuttings. You can use seeds if you have the patience for it.

Possible diseases of royal geranium

  • Lower leaves turning yellow

There may be two options here. First, if the leaves are elastic, but their tips dry, then there is not enough moisture. Well, if the leaves, on the contrary, are sluggish and even begin to rot, then in this case there is an excess of moisture.

  • The leaves of the royal geranium turn red

The reason may be low temperature. If the winter is cold and your windows are wooden, then remove the plants from the window for a while.

  • Stem darkened

  • Unfortunately, the reason is dangerous disease like, black leg. Unfortunately, the plant can no longer be saved. And to avoid infecting other flowers, ruthlessly discard the plant and soil. Be sure to treat the pot with bleach, or another means. You can also boil.
  • The lower leaves fall off and the stem becomes bare

Royal geraniums lack sunlight.

  • Watery pads appeared on the leaves

The reason is waterlogging of the soil. Just reduce watering and soon everything will be fine.

  • Gray mold appeared on the leaves

The cause is infection with a fungus due to an excess of moisture. Unfortunately, the disease is contagious and urgent action needs to be taken. It is not necessary to throw out the plant, but remove the affected leaves as soon as possible and treat the plant with a special preparation.

Of the pests of royal geranium, whitefly and weevil love.

Royal geranium care and reproduction

The royal geranium differs from its sister zonal geranium in that it has a dormant period during which it is important to keep the plant cool.

  • If this is not done, then for a long time you will not see her beautiful, in truth, royal flowers.
  • The thing is that during the dormant period the plant recuperates and if it is hot in the room, then all its forces are spent on somehow existing.
  • As a result, forces are spent in winter and they simply do not remain for flowering.
  • Also, this type of pelargonium is afraid of heat. If the room is very hot, then the flowers may wither, and if there are buds, they will fade without opening.

If possible, plant your beauty outside in the summer. However, it is important that the rain does not fall on her, and the wind does not blow, of which she is very afraid. Place the flower in a windless place protected from rain, such as on a terrace or balcony.

Watering royal pelargonium

As for watering, the plant loves water. Therefore, water it abundantly, but do not let the water stagnate, she is very afraid of him. In addition, waterlogging is more dangerous than drying out the soil. If the soil dries out, then there is a better chance of saving the plant. But frequent waterlogging causes root rot. And if the roots began to rot, then the plant is almost impossible to save.

Make it a rule to water the royal geranium only when the topsoil dries out..

And do not forget to regularly pamper your beauty with nutrients, especially during flowering. Therefore, during the active period, pelargonium is fed every 10 days. But during the dormant period, it is better to refuse top dressing.

Royal geranium propagation by cuttings

Of course, if you are determined and have the patience and strength, you can try growing pelargonium from seeds that you can buy in the store, or harvest from the plant when it begins to fade.

  • But I personally Lately choose the most simple methods to save time and, most importantly, nerves.
  • In general, now I try to propagate any plants by cuttings.
  • In most cases, you can also go two ways: plant the cutting in the ground or put it in water and wait for the roots to appear and only then plant it in the ground (unfortunately, this method is not suitable for royal pelargonium).
  • It is better to cut off the apical cuttings for propagation (you can take them during pruning) at the end of August and until September. Choose cuttings that have 2-3 internodes. Leave the stalk for a couple of hours to let it dry, and then place it in the ground.

To speed up the formation of roots, I cut off the leaves from the cuttings, leaving 2-3 upper leaves each. Thus, the plant does not need to expend energy to provide nutrition to the leaves. It is not necessary to cover the rooting stalk with oilcloth. Also, try not to over-moisten the stalk.

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Features of large-flowered pelargonium

As befits a plant with such a big name, at home, the royal pelargonium, in the photo, is more demanding for care than the common varieties of zonal geranium, and it does not bloom for such a long time. But, having seen only once the huge flowers of the most different forms and colors, it is impossible not to get excited about growing an equally beautiful plant on your windowsill.

Royal pelargonium, reaching a height of 30–60 cm, differs from other varieties:

  • folded leaves with a dense, rough to the touch leaf plate and serrated edges;
  • large, up to 7 cm in diameter, simple and double flowers.

The multi-colored color of the petals adds decorativeness to the inflorescences, but if the flowering period of the zonal geranium ends in autumn, then the last inflorescences on the royal pelargonium wither in the second half of summer.

As a result, admire the caps of air bright colors it can be from 3 to 5 months, and it is doubly insulting if buds do not appear on the bush in the spring.

Why doesn't royal pelargonium bloom?

Having landed young plant into the ground, amateur flower growers look forward to the appearance of spectacular inflorescences above the greenery, but sometimes they have to face disappointment.

Instead of flowers, large-flowered geranium gives only greenery, and fast-growing shoots soon lose their appearance and stretch out.

What mistakes were made when caring for royal pelargonium at home, and why, as in the photo, the plant was left almost without flowers?

Indeed, if pelargonium does not bloom on time, this may say:

  • about incorrectly selected temperature conditions or lack of lighting;
  • that the plant is planted in an overly voluminous pot or receives fertilizers of inharmonious composition;
  • about untimely transplantation;
  • about illiterate pruning or its complete absence.

How to care for royal pelargonium so that the plant blooms regularly, is healthy and does not lose its decorative effect all year round?

Summer care for royal pelargonium at home

Speaking about the unpretentiousness of pelargoniums, connoisseurs of this species are not disingenuous at all.

In order for the royal pelargonium to feel comfortable and delight the owners with abundant flowering, the grower needs to follow only a few rules that will ensure the success of the entire cultivation.

Large-flowered varieties of pelargonium are demanding on lighting and love to be put on the brightest sunny windows. Only on the hottest days do plants need a shading that protects against burns, in other cases, limiting light is a risk:

  • stretching and exposure of shoots;
  • reducing the intensity of flowering;
  • dropping buds that have already appeared.

Unlike related varieties, royal pelargonium does not tolerate drafts and cold winds, if such a plant is planted in a garden, it will probably not please with inflorescences either. Therefore, royal pelargoniums are grown at home, and care in the summer includes protection from drafts. Plants feel great and bloom profusely on glazed sunny terraces and loggias.

With excessive dryness of the air in summer, pelargonium can be sprayed with water at room temperature, making sure that direct sunlight does not fall on wet leaves and inflorescences.

At the same time, do not forget about watering and fertilizing flower plants. Although Pelargonium easily tolerates dry periods and is not too demanding on the composition of the soil, without water and nutrition, it will undoubtedly not produce the proper amount of flowers. In the warm season, large-flowered varieties require especially abundant watering, which is carried out when the top layer of soil dries out a little.

Features of winter care for large-flowered geraniums

After the luxurious flowers wither, the pelargonium should recover, but if you leave it until next spring on a warm windowsill, you can not wait for the next flowering. How to care for pelargonium in autumn and winter? With the onset of autumn, when the temperature drops, the care of royal pelargonium at home changes. The plant for three months is provided with:

  • temperature of the order of 12-15 ° C;
  • rare watering, only supporting the decreased activity of pelargonium;
  • sufficient lighting.

Top dressing for the entire period of wintering is stopped. If all the conditions of care are met, the plant lays a sufficient number of flower buds and, with the exit from the winter stupor, it will surely bloom luxuriously.

Carrying out transplantation and feeding of royal pelargonium

All types of pelargonium are distinguished by the rapid growth of the aerial part of the plant. If a bush that has grown considerably over the summer, along with the soil removed from the pot, has completely covered the roots with an earthen ball, at the end of winter the royal geranium is transplanted.

  • The soil for this crop should be loose, well breathable and retain moisture.
  • When thinking about why the royal pelargonium does not bloom, the grower must take into account and correct selection soil mixture.
  • A good option is a mixture of equal parts of disinfected garden soil, sand and peat.

Since the root system of the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture, a powerful drainage layer is required for pelargonium, and no less attention is paid to the selection of a pot when planting. It is because of the transplant into too large dishes that many flower growers are disappointed in the culture, and the royal pelargonium does not bloom.

Getting into a voluminous pot, the plant rapidly increases its green mass, but completely “forgets” about the set of buds.

A similar process occurs with the wrong mixture of fertilizers. If nitrogen predominates in top dressing during the formation of buds and flowering, the stems and leaves grow, and the buds become less and less. The best mixtures for feeding pelargonium are distinguished by a high content of potassium and phosphorus, which ensures abundant and long flowering.

Pelargonium pruning

The reason why royal pelargonium does not bloom may be incorrect or insufficient pruning. Since the plant grows rapidly and the buds are formed on the tops of the shoots, it is easy to increase pure flower buds by pinching or cutting off the tops of overgrown stems in July and August. This measure will:

  • use the resulting cuttings for propagation;
  • achieve lush flowering next season;
  • stimulate the growth of young shoots;
  • give the bush a compact attractive shape.

It is better to trim the plant gradually, without seriously injuring the pelargonium, and after the operation, the plant must be fed. At the end of winter, with the beginning of a new formation of buds, pruning is completed.

Cuttings of pelargoniums

The resulting cuttings can be rooted all year round, but in the warm season it is much easier to do this.

As planting material take strong shoot tips that have at least two pairs of leaves and are cut 5 mm below the node. It is better to cut off the lower leaves immediately and leave no more than 3 upper leaf plates. After this, the places of cuts on the cuttings are treated with chopped charcoal and left in the air for 18-24 hours.

True, there is another way. Already 10 minutes after separation from the mother plant, cut cuttings:

  • treated with root;
  • planted in a mixture of sand, humus and peat;
  • cover with non-woven material for 2-3 days.

Good results are obtained by planting cuttings in moistened peat tablets.

In any case, plantings are watered with a solution of phytosporin, which will protect the cuts from the development of rot. And how to care for pelargonium after the cuttings have given roots?

Until the moment when the cuttings, which are at a temperature of 19–23 ° C, take root well, it will take from 8 to 12 weeks. After this time:

  • young plants are planted permanent place;
  • pinch the main shoot over the third pair of leaves, which will force the bush to give new side stems.

If at home the care for royal pelargonium, as in the photo, is good, young plants develop well, and next spring small neat bushes give the first inflorescences.

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Royal Geranium Care

Timely and proper care of royal geraniums allows you to form a regular and strong bush during the first year of life, which in the second year of its life will give you lush bright buds.

  • Caring for royal pelargonium begins from the moment you decide to house this plant. You need to choose the right place to land.
  • Royal geranium does not bring drafts, dry air and direct sunlight. Also, the plant does not like the high air temperature and insufficient watering.
  • However, waterlogging of an earthen coma will not do anything good.

As you understand, the optimal place for growing is the north or east window, under which the battery is not located. central heating and which is not used to ventilate the premises during the cold season. In spring, summer and autumn periods royal geranium feels great in a glazed loggia. However, when the threat of the first frost appears, the plant should be removed to the room.

In the spring and summer, ambient temperatures up to 25 degrees Celsius are suitable for the growth of geraniums. In autumn and winter, you should not allow the temperature to rise above 20 degrees Celsius.
Landing

To organize the proper care of royal geraniums at home, planting is important. For growing, choose ceramic pots. They save optimal temperature earthen clod and ensure uniform air distribution. There must be a drainage hole to eliminate excess moisture.

  • Pour expanded clay or any other drains at the bottom of the pot. Next, fill the container with soddy soil with a high organic content.
  • You can immediately apply 1 tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizers to ensure sufficient plant nutrition during the period of green mass gain.
  • After planting, keep the royal pelargonium for 2 weeks in a shady place and water 2 times a day.

Royal geraniums should be transplanted no more than 1 time in 3 years. And it is best to refrain from this event. This indoor flower tolerates a transplant extremely painfully and may even die.

Also, caring for royal geraniums includes the timely application of top dressing. In spring and summer, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers once a week. Potassium and phosphorus should predominate. In autumn and winter, apply nitrogen and organic fertilizers once a month.

Be sure to shape the plant by pinching. The first pruning is carried out at the moment when the plant reaches a stem height of 15 cm. All tops are cut off by 2 cm. The second pinching is needed at the moment when side shoots reach a length of 5 cm. Trim all their tops by 1 cm.

After that, you will get a spherical shape of a bush, which, with proper care for royal geraniums, will give abundant flowering in the second year.

Propagation by cuttings of royal geranium

At home, it is advisable to propagate royal geraniums by cuttings. Although propagation by seeds is not ruled out. In this case, sowing is carried out in the first half of February in structured loose soil to a depth of 0.5 cm. Floors as needed. Picking in the phase when the seedlings have 2 true leaves.

  • Reproduction by cuttings of royal pelargonium is available to every grower, if any mature plant. In spring or autumn, cuttings up to 10 cm long are cut.
  • For this, it is better to use a sharp knife. Cut at a 45 degree angle.
  • Immediately after cutting, 2 leaves are removed from below, and the cuttings are placed in water at room temperature for 7-10 days until the roots appear.

After that, the cuttings are rooted in light structured soil in containers of small diameter. Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out after 2 months. To improve the rooting process, it is important to prepare the soil mixture. Add the same amount of building or river sand to any soil. After mixing, pour all the soil with boiling water. A strong solution of manganese is also suitable for disinfection. But after watering them, plants can be planted after 48 hours.

When rooting has passed, the growth of the top begins. Be sure to cut it back by 1 cm. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots.

Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?

Many beginner flower growers are wondering why the royal geranium does not bloom. This may be due to improper care, frequent transplants and the presence of bacterial and fungal infections.

First of all, carefully inspect the plant for dark spots on the leaves, fluff on the stems and rot in the basal part. If signs of disease are found, then the entire root system off the ground, flush under running water and put for 2 - 3 days in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Clean up or remove all affected parts of the plant.

Prepare fresh soil. The pot, if the same one will be used, is disinfected with a solution of bleach. The soil before transplanting is also disinfected with boiling water. Replant the plant and carefully observe the appearance of new signs of disease.

Signs of illness:

  • Also, royal geraniums do not bloom if improper care and growth conditions are provided.
  • For example, excessive dryness of the air leads to the systematic fall of buds and peduncles.
  • Their laying occurs only if the soil contains sufficient amounts of phosphorus, potassium and manganese.
  • With excessive nitrogen application, a rapid set of green mass occurs and there is no flowering.

Another option why royal geranium pelargonium does not bloom is too large a container in which the plant grows. For this indoor flower tall, but not wide pots are more suitable. This ensures long-term abundant flowering. A large pot leads to the growth of green mass and the absence of budding.

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Royal Pelargonium Care

Among the huge variety of pelargoniums, this is a real "aristocrat" - royal pelargonium (Regal Pelargonium) . For large flowers, it is also called: large-flowered pelargonium (Pelargonium grandiflorum). It differs from other varieties of room geranium (pelargonium) primarily in large flowers. It is also deprived of the aroma characteristic of geraniums, which not everyone likes. And most importantly, unlike their "relatives", royal pelargonium at home is capricious and whimsical.

Breeders over the past decades have bred many varieties of royal pelargonium.

They differ in shape, size and color of flowers.

  • For example, the flower that I bought then in the greenhouse has pale pink petals with small dark spots. This is Pink Mikado Pelargonium.
  • But its other varieties are also beautiful: Aristo Schoko (pale red with light brown spots), Barkarole (variegated with silver edging), Imperial (white and pink).
  • And how gorgeous are the dark royal pelargoniums: Black Berry and Black Butterfly.

In a word, today the royal pelargonium flower is represented by a mass of shades: from white to inky purple. And the shape of the flowers is most often not simple, but terry, and the petals of some varieties are wavy or corrugated.

The leaves of the royal pelargonium are jagged, rough, rather large. Although among the new varieties there are varieties with small leaves and small flowers, the shape of the leaves of the royal pelargonium remains unchanged.

Light and warmth for royal pelargonium

I brought my beauty of royal blood home in bloom and did not dare to transplant it right away. I wanted to fall in love. I put an ugly temporary flowerpot in a spacious elegant planter (for a queen, the design should be appropriate) and put it on a stand near the window, where diffused sunlight fell on it, and it was warm all the time.

  • After the pelargonium faded, I transplanted it. The soil used is the same as for other types of geraniums: well-drained, light, slightly acidic substrate for flowering plants.
  • It is a pity, but the royal pelargonium blooms for a very short time. Approximately from April to August.
  • In addition, in order for it to bloom at all (and for many lovers it does not want to release buds), it needs to be cool for several months.
  • Flowers of royal pelargonium generally require a temperature of 10-15 degrees during the dormant period, so try to find the coolest place in the apartment for it in autumn and winter.

In summer, when the royal pelargonium blooms, it needs warmth. But not hot! From the heat, the leaves can dry, and the buds will not open. When growing royal pelargonium, diseases can appear - pests (aphids or whiteflies) or sunburn spots appear on the leaves.

In the warm season, royal pelargonium can be planted in open ground(night coolness will only encourage flowering). In any case, that's exactly what I do. But the royal pelargonium is afraid of rain and wind - do not forget about its effeminacy. Place it on a veranda or terrace protected from the wind. In the conditions of the apartment, the ideal place for summer period- closed balcony.

And in order for the royal pelargonium to bloom and bush, you need to pinch the top shoots in advance (from February-March to April).

Watering and fertilizing royal pelargonium

Beauty royal pelargonium is not against abundant watering during flowering.

  • You can water directly into the ground.
  • But we must not allow stagnation of moisture or, on the contrary, the drying of an earthen coma.
  • Leaves and buds will immediately wilt and may begin to crumble.
  • If waterlogged, root rot is possible.
  • I water the royal pelargonium as the soil dries.

Like any geranium at home, royal pelargonium will grow and bloom better if it is fed on time. This should be done only in spring and summer, but not during the dormant period. For top dressing, I use liquid fertilizers with a high content of potassium (for flowers) and trace elements.

Reproduction of royal pelargonium

  • Believe my experience: in no case should you put cuttings of royal pelargonium for germination in water - it will rot or simply will not take root. And the young sprout also needs to be watered moderately.
  • I planted the rooted sprout in permanent pots filled from the bottom with a drainage mixture and topped with a light substrate.
  • The first year, royal pelargonium is just settling in its palace- builds up the root system and drives out shoots. But already in the second year, truly royal flowers will bloom in you.

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The main varieties of pelargonium

  • Zonal(non-double, terry, star-shaped and others) - the most undemanding varietal pelargoniums in care.
  • royal geranium- This is a variety of flowers with large showy flowers.
  • Ampel, fragrant and succulent pelargoniums have leaves of an interesting shape.
  • Fragrant pelargoniums exude, when touching the leaves, the smells of lemon, wormwood, mint, pine and other aromas.

Geranium and Pelargonium - why two names?

Why are flowers called differently - Geranium, Pelargonium? The names of the flower, both of which are associated with birds. The name "geranium" from the Greek geranios translates as "crane", and "pelargonium" (pelargos) as "stork". The fruits of the plant are similar to the beaks of these birds, hence the names.

  • That heat-loving perennial that grows at home and does not tolerate cold is pelargonium. And frost-resistant geranium grows calmly and winters in gardens and flower beds.
  • Pelargonium seeds actually resemble the beak of a stork or crane, and are also very similar to the Tari bird.
  • But we often call home pelargonium geranium. It's not that important. The main thing is that the plant brings a lot of joy to its owners.
  • Growing geraniums at home is easy: easy to care for, easy to breed. And as a gift for your care - colorful flowers of zonal, ampelous, royal pelargoniums or juicy greens of fragrant geraniums.

Unlike room geranium, garden geranium is practically not afraid of frost at all and grows calmly on our backyard and summer cottages, delighting gardeners with their modest flowers.

On our windowsills you can often see the beautiful Azalea, which gives the owner flowers with truly royal generosity.

Care is easy and simple

A lot of light and space, optimal watering and compliance with the temperature regime are the components of success in caring for a flower.

Accommodation

Pelargonium feels good on windowsills facing south. With a lack of lighting, it blooms worse and the stem becomes bare.

  • But on hot days it must be shaded from the direct rays of the luminary.
  • Geranium loves space.
  • When placing it, it is necessary to make sure that neighboring flowers do not interfere with it.
  • On the southern windowsills, indoor geranium feels great.

Temperature and watering

The temperature at the location of the geranium must be maintained not lower than +10-15°C. Temperatures below these values ​​provoke the exposure of the stems and the cessation of flowering. If during the frosty period the edges of the leaves of the geranium standing on the windowsill turn red, then you need to move the pot with the plant away from the window.
Like all ampelous plants, this type of geranium is best grown in a hanging basket.

Although geranium and drought resistant flower, the soil in the pot should not dry out too much otherwise flowering will be poor. As soon as the soil in the pot begins to dry out, it's time to water. If the room is sunny or hot from heating, then it is better to water daily or once every 2 days, and when it is cool or cloudy, then after 3-4 days. But it’s also not worth pouring a flower, otherwise the root neck will begin to rot. Then the plant may die.

We plant and transplant - what kind of soil and pots

Pelargonium undemanding to soil. Required good layer drainage at the bottom of the pot. It is needed so that excess water does not accumulate in the soil: this leads to rotting of the roots.
The pot is usually chosen not very large.

Indoor flower grows well on neutral and slightly alkaline soils. As an example, there are three compositions of earthen mixtures for planting homemade geraniums:

  • humus, leaf, sod land, sand (2:2:2:1);
  • peat, garden soil, sand (1:1:1);
  • compost, peat, humus soil, sand (1:1:1:1).

Young plants are transplanted every year or every other year in March-April.
The pot should be small.. The root system in the ground should, if possible, occupy the entire volume. When the roots are in some tightness, pelargoniums bloom more profusely.
Cuttings on an industrial scale.

We propagate the beauty

  • Seeds. They are sown at the beginning of the year, spread out on moist soil and sprinkled with a small layer of soil for seedlings. Put in a warm place, covering the container with pelargonium seeds with glass. Moisten the soil from time to time. The shoots that have appeared are seated and grown for a couple of months in a place that is well lit. Then the seedlings are planted in permanent pots.
  • cuttings. When the roots grow at the cutting, placed in the spring or in the middle of summer in a bowl of water, it is transplanted into a pot with soil. The water is changed periodically during the process. You can plant cut cuttings in a loose earthen mixture, which is periodically slightly moistened during the rooting process. Greenhouses in order to avoid decay do not need to be arranged.
  • The division of the bush. In February-March or July-August, the earth, along with pelargonium, is pulled out of the pot, turning it upside down. Then the stems of the flower are carefully pulled apart and planted in new pots.

Flower growers know that indoor plants can be grown
not only for the sake of aesthetics, but also for the sake of health. A prominent representative of such medical indoor plants is Kalanchoe.

Aloe is another equally important medicinal plant that can be successfully grown on a windowsill.

And fans of Feng Shui prefer the family of fat women. Everything about money tree see here

How to crop

Bold and a lot. Especially when there is nothing to save - with bare stems. Better - in the fall. In the spring, too, you can - when transplanting a plant. To form good branching and a lower crown, adult stems are cut so that only stumps no more than 4-7 cm high from the ground are preserved.

The main thing is that two to five buds remain on the stumps. In any season, to improve the branching of the stems, young branches can also be pinched.

It can be seen how, after such a bold pruning, several new shoots have already appeared.

Typical diseases

Pelargonium gets sick most often due to over watering and lack of fresh air. If a dark spot appears near the rhizome, then the tissues of the stem begin to soften. The plant is not easy to save in this case. For the prevention of gray rot, "black leg" and other fungal diseases, the soil is sterilized before planting pelargonium, the place of cultivation is ventilated more often, and the plants are treated with a fungicide once a year.
Most likely, these flowers cannot be saved, they were watered too generously.

If the leaves turn yellow, then you need to put the plant in a place where there is more light in the room, and adjust the watering mode. The appearance of pads with watery contents on the leaves indicates waterlogging of the soil in the pot.

Control of winged and crawling pests(aphids, mites, weevils, whiteflies) is reduced to the use of fungicides and formulations containing permethrin.
The plant does not have enough light, the leaves began to turn yellow.

Victoria Glendinning, British writer, speaks of Pelargonium as a living being. She writes that geranium blooms better if they talk kindly to her from time to time. And too much attention, loosening and fertilizing oppress and confuse her.
Geranium essential oil with its aroma soothes and harmonizes thoughts and space.

Breathe medicinal smell of pelargonium
useful for high blood pressure. Pelargonium juice has useful antiseptic properties: attach a crushed leaf to the wound and bandage it - it will quickly heal. Mashed geranium leaves are effective for ear inflammation, radiculitis and osteochondrosis. The smell of pelargonium repels flies and plant pests. A leaf placed in the ear of a domestic dog or cat will rid animals of ticks.

You can’t wait for fragrant flowers, but the smell is amazing!

In ordinary life, such a flower is often called a geranium, only this unusual geranium- royal. characteristic feature from a simple geranium, is the presence of a large cap of flowers of various colors.

The flower looks like pansies, since dark blotches are clearly visible in the middle along with light petals, but the leaves themselves do not differ from ordinary geraniums.

Royal pelargonium blooms from the very beginning of spring until late autumn, a houseplant, heat-loving. The flower does not need special care, it is only important to water it once a week.

The plant propagates by cuttings. There are quite a few varieties of this plant, each of them has a unique color, leaf size, flower shape.

Care

Growing pelargonium at home in a bowl, you need to provide her with good conditions so that she will delight with beautiful flowers all summer. Comfortable for the plant, indoors with enough air, the main thing is that there are no drafts.

In the summer, gardeners love to plant Pelargonium on the terrace in beautiful bowls. You can decorate flower beds with such a flower, after planting it also in bowls, which are placed near other plants.

It is also necessary to ensure sufficient watering of Pelargonium. The plant does not like excess moisture, fill the soil large quantity water is unacceptable, watering should be carried out as the soil dries. If you pour a flower with a large amount of water, mold will form, the flower may get sick, and soon die.

Leaving Pelargonium on outdoor terrace, you need to make sure that the sun does not fall on it all day, moderate shading is necessary for the plant. It is necessary to limit pelargonium from rain. It is watered in the summer twice a day, in the winter one watering per day is enough.

The temperature at which Pelargonium feels great, blooms profusely, should vary from 18 to 26 degrees.

From late October to mid-May, Pelargonium is in a state of sleep, it is not necessary to touch the ground, irrigate it.

Before dormancy, it is necessary to remove dried leaves, tired shoots, this will provide a greater supply of nutrients and oxygen.

During the flowering period, the soil must be fertilized with minerals. This should not be done during the rest period. Lush flowers can be found on young shoots, more mature shoots do not give such beauty, they just quickly stretch upwards.

reproduction

The flower is propagated by cuttings. At the beginning of summer, cut off the tops of the stems. Place them in a jar of water. After some time, they will sprout, after which Pelargonium is planted in the ground.

High humidity in the soil should not be allowed, this leads to the death of the flower. Two days before transplanting the cuttings into the soil, you need to remove them from the jar, dry them a little, in order to avoid excessive moisture ingress.

Landing

To plant Pelargonium in a pot, you need to mix ordinary soil with peat, or purchase ready-made soil in a store.

After harvesting the soil in a bowl, it must be moistened, then plant a plant. It is impossible to plant a flower in dry ground; in this case, you need to water the soil along the edges, without falling on the roots.

Planting by cuttings is a fairly convenient method, as the plant takes root quickly. At the beginning of the germination of a flower in the ground, it is not necessary to water much.

A month after landing in the ground, Pelargonium is taken out in the sun, not for the whole day, just for a couple of hours. This method perfectly prepares the plant for flowering outdoors.

Pelargonium is transplanted quite easily, you just need to carefully pull the plant out of the bowl, shake off the old earth, and then place it in new ground. You need to transplant a flower in the spring, like most indoor plants.

Pests

A disease such as "black leg" can harm a flower. In this case, the stems begin to turn black close to the ground. It is necessary to eliminate this in a timely manner, since soon blackness will cover the entire plant.

Pelargonium can also be covered with rust, it appears on the leaves, rust, as a rule, does not touch the flowers.

Pelargonium is an unpretentious plant, with proper care it will delight with lush, beautiful flowers all sunny summer.

Photo of royal pelarnogy

If you turn to specialized literature, you can find out that royal pelargonium is also known under a number of other names - royal geranium, large-flowered pelargonium. For scientists, the name of the plant is more familiar as - Regal Pelargonium, Pelargonium grandiflorum. Pelargonium is a member of the Geraniaceae family and can grow up to 25–50 cm in height. However, this plant is most famous as an indoor flower, which can be explained by its long flowering period and unpretentious care. The reproduction of royal pelargonium is simple and effective, since cuttings are most often used for it.

Types and varieties of royal pelargonium

Zonal pelargoniums.

Tulip-shaped. Very beautiful variety of pelargonium. This subgroup got its name due to half-open flowers, shaped like mini-tulips. They are collected in dense inflorescences, resembling small boutonnieres. They were bred in the USA in the late 60s. Most of all I liked such varieties from this category as: Red Pandora, Lilian Andrea, Marbacka Tulpan, Emmafran Bengtsbo, Patricia Andrea.

Rosebud. The flowers of this variety look like roses, the petals of which are neatly folded into buds. And a large number of double flowers in one inflorescence forms a beautiful, fluffy ball. Such rose pelargoniums appeared at the end of the nineteenth century, and since then a huge number of their varieties have been bred.

Carnations. The flowers of such pelargoniums are framed by petals with jagged edges. One gets the impression that the bush is dotted with tiny carnations.

Cactus. An interesting and extremely rare group of pelargoniums, which was released at the end of the nineteenth century. Their peculiarity is that each petal is wrapped in a kind of bundle, from which the flower caps take on a slightly disheveled look.

Ivy Pelargoniums.

Ivy (ampel) pelargoniums have long occupied their niche among numerous species and varieties. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that their stems are not erect, but long and hanging down (their height can vary from 30 to 100 cm).

Unique.

Unique - "elder" among pelargoniums. In the second half of the 18th century, this specimen was bred with carved leaves, beautiful flowers and a fragrant smell. The species became especially widespread in the Victorian era, when almost no garden of the nobility could do without several representatives of this variety.

Fragrant pelargoniums.

Not everyone will like the smell of pelargonium, which it emits if you accidentally touch its leaves. But there are varieties that are simply fragrant, filling the house with a variety of wonderful aromas. At first glance, these are completely nondescript plants, with rare, modest flowers. But this group is valued not for beauty, but for the ability to refresh and flavor the air. If you want to smell spruce or pine, you can put a pot of Orsett, Clorinda, Fernleaf, Fair Ellen in the room.

Care for royal pelargonium at home

Pelargonium loves good lighting However, it should be kept out of direct sunlight. If there is little light, then its inflorescences will be small. It can be located in any bright place in the apartment with the exception of the north side.

In winter, due to lack of light, pelargonium is kept at a low temperature (about 15 degrees). It must be placed in the light in a cool room so that the pelargonium rests. If she is not allowed to rest in the winter, then her shoots will stretch, and she will stop blooming, which over time can lead to the death of the plant.

Growing royal pelargonium implies careful attention to watering the plant, because if the soil dries out strongly, it will stop blooming. If the soil is too wet, then the pelargonium may begin to hurt. For irrigation use settled water at room temperature. It is necessary to water the flower when the top earthen layer is already dry. Additionally, you need to spray the leaves of pelargonium before it begins to bloom.

Pelargonium is planted in sod land, to which peat and sand are added. As additional fertilizers, products that contain a smaller amount of nitrogen are used.

In spring and summer, the plant is fed once a month.

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Watering royal pelargonium at home

As for watering, the plant loves water. Therefore, water it abundantly, but do not let the water stagnate, she is very afraid of him. In addition, waterlogging is more dangerous than drying out the soil. If the soil dries out, then there is a better chance of saving the plant. But frequent waterlogging causes root rot. And if the roots began to rot, then the plant is almost impossible to save. And do not forget to regularly pamper your beauty with nutrients, especially during flowering. Therefore, during the active period, pelargonium is fed every 10 days. But during the dormant period, it is better to refuse top dressing.

Fertilizer for royal pelargonium at home

At home, geraniums can be fed with milk formula by dissolving 100 ml of milk in a liter of water. Use alternating with regular watering. Ash mixed dry with soil will help replenish potassium reserves; or ash solution added as an auxiliary top dressing. For the abundant flowering of the plant, complex means and feeding systems are not required. It is enough to provide the flower with nutrient soil, and in the spring-summer period to give a full complex mineral fertilizers, paying close attention to watering with iodine. Reasonably dosed top dressing, which includes, in addition to the three main components, also magnesium, calcium, sulfur, zinc, iron, iodine, will provide the owner of the geranium with abundant flowering at home, throughout the year.

Transplantation of royal pelargonium at home

First of all, we look at the state of the flower. If it is in the flowering stage, you should wait for the end of the process and replant 4-5 days after completion.

If the pelargonium does not bloom, we take new pot right size, since plants are usually sold in small shipping containers and we transplant a flower into it. We also replace the soil with a new one, because in stores they mainly use a temporary substitute in which the plant will not be able to fully develop.

Light fertile soil is suitable for pelargonium, it is best to mix sand, turf and leaf soil and humus in a ratio of 1: 2: 2: 2. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to lay out a drainage layer of expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles or other coastal pebbles. Pelargonium carefully removed from old container, without washing and not strongly shaking off the roots, and place in a new soil. Sprinkle with earth on top, carefully closing the root system. At the end of the procedure, water the plant.

Reproduction of royal pelargonium

Like all types of geranium, the royal one is propagated by cuttings. But unlike other geraniums, the royal geranium does not tolerate reproduction and begins to act up. Therefore, certain conditions must be created.

Propagation by cuttings is carried out in spring and summer. It is important that the air temperature in spring be 18–20 degrees, and in summer a maximum of 25. At other temperatures, rooting problems may occur.

Prepare the ground ahead of time. In soddy soil, add sand one to one or peat, sand and perlite, also in equal proportions. Pour the previously prepared soil with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Using a sharp knife, cut the stems and leave a small margin under the bottom leaf. Cut the cuttings so that each has 2-3 buds. trim bottom sheet by making an oblique cut.

Dry the cutting and plant in the soil. After planting, the cuttings are usually not watered. You can just spray with warm water. After about 3 weeks, the cutting takes root. After that, pinch the central stem, and the plant will begin to branch. Top dressing can be carried out two weeks after rooting.

It is not necessary to repot the plant often. It does not like this because of its capriciousness.

So, here are the basic rules for caring for this beautiful geranium:

  • place geranium pots in well-lit areas;
  • do not overheat, observe the temperature regime;
  • do not expose to direct sunlight;
  • do not leave in the rain;
  • ventilate the room;
  • water moderately, avoiding getting water on the leaves and the flowers themselves;
  • feed before each flowering;
  • do not repot often;
  • The plant affected by the whitefly must be isolated from warm, dry air. If the flower is heavily infested, shed the soil with actara three times in 6 to 7 days. In the future, for the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to inspect the leaves from the underside.

    At the initial stage, the whitefly can be easily washed off with water. To prevent its spread, you need to wash the leaves with laundry soap, and then cover the flower with a bag for half an hour. To prevent soapy water from running into the pot, cover the surface of the soil with polyethylene.

    Among the diseases of royal pelargoniums, the black leg is most common. The reasons for its appearance may be: low temperature, dense, waterlogged soil, too large a pot. This disease is most susceptible to cuttings, as well as young plants that have not yet lignified stems. Since it is almost impossible to save the plant, it is necessary to re-root it.