Unusual pelargonium, or familiar geranium. Planting in the garden and care. How to grow geraniums at home from seeds

In the cultivation of pelargonium, there is a clear annual cycle, which depends on temperature and illumination. Usually, the flowering time in our climate begins in the spring and may continue for some varieties until late autumn, while there will be enough light and heat.

Lighting

When growing pelargoniums, one must remember that these are light-loving plants. Planted in open ground or carried out on open air in the summer, they perfectly tolerate direct sun. The exception is royal geraniums, which are more picky about the effects of wind and rain, so they are preferably grown on terraces, balconies and window sills, in protected places. If the pelargonium is in a closed room (in a greenhouse, on a window), where light enters through the glass, the plant may overheat, especially in conditions of poor ventilation. Then you need protection from the scorching summer midday sun. Pelargonium will endure and slight shading, but with a lack of light, the lower leaves will begin to turn yellow and die, the stem will become bare, the plant will not bloom.

It is important to rotate the plant regularly, every few days, at a small angle relative to the light source, this is necessary for uniform crown growth.

Temperature regime

In summer, pelargonium prefers moderate heat, within + 17 + 23 ° C. Landing in open ground should be done only when the danger of return frosts has passed. At a stable temperature of +12 ° C and below, pelargonium ceases to bloom, and too high a temperature also negatively affects flowering, especially indoors. The fact that the plant is cold can be signaled by reddened leaves.

In autumn, the temperature of the content and the abundance of watering are gradually reduced - growth should not be active so that the pelargonium does not stretch and become depleted in low light conditions.

winter care

Optimal wintering conditions can be created on a glazed and non-freezing, well-lit loggia or in a greenhouse. It is necessary to maintain the minimum temperature at night not lower than +6 ° C, in the daytime - about +12 + 15 ° C. In case of overheating on sunny days, open the greenhouse doors for ventilation. Angels, bicolor and tricolor varieties are best kept at higher temperatures by placing them in warmer areas of the greenhouse or loggia.

Good air circulation around the plants is required, they should not be placed too closely, if necessary, thick roots should be thinned out a little. This will help prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases. Watering this time is rather scarce, experienced flower growers spend it from pallets, clearly measuring the amount of water and determining the time of the next watering by the weight of the pots, while the top of the soil is always left dry.

There are also other ways of wintering. One of them is to keep the plants in the form of rooted cuttings, while the mother plant is thrown away. The method is used in the summer cultivation of pelargoniums in the open air.

The second method is also used in outdoor cultivation: on the eve of frost, the plant is dug up, excess soil is shaken off the roots, the plant is heavily cut and wrapped in paper, then hung in a cool basement. The room should be with good ventilation and high humidity so that the plant does not dry out. In the spring, it is planted in a pot, with the onset of heat, it is planted in open ground. You can combine the first and second methods: first take the cuttings, and then send the mother plant to winter in the basement.

Wintering falls on the darkest time of the year and lasts approximately 2.5-3 months (from November to February). Already in late January - early February, with an increase in daylight hours, pelargoniums gradually begin to wake up.

Watering

When watering pelargoniums, it is important to remember that these are rather drought-resistant plants, while at the same time easily susceptible to fungal diseases. Therefore, it is better to under-water the plant a little than water it in excess. In summer, water as the top layer dries out, provided that the plant is in a warm and sunny place. In winter, in cool conditions, watering should be limited, but not brought to complete drying of the soil.

Signs of overwatering will be sluggish, drooping leaves, often with signs of gray rot, in severe cases, stem rot will begin, which almost always leads the plant to death. Another symptom of excess moisture is the appearance of "sores" on the underside of the leaves. When the earthen coma dries out, the plant stops blooming, the leaves turn yellow, their edges dry out.

Air humidity for pelargoniums is not important, these plants do not require spraying. Excessive dampness and stagnant air can cause fungal diseases.

top dressing

Top dressing is desirable to introduce with each watering, respectively, reducing the dosage. So, if watering is done every day, then we divide the weekly rate of fertilizers by 7-10 and give such a dose in each watering. If the clod managed to dry out between waterings, then you must first moisten it clean water. During winter rest, top dressing is canceled if the temperature is kept low and the plants are completely resting. When at least a slight increase is observed, fertilizers can be introduced at ¼ dosage. Shortly after the cuttings have rooted, use a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. For fertilizing young plants that are not yet allowed to bloom, use a complex universal fertilizer. Before the onset of the flowering period, about 2.5-3 months (in April), they begin to use a fertilizer with a higher potassium content. With signs of chlorosis, it should be treated with magnesium sulfate and iron chelate (or simply a solution of microelements in chelate form).

Landing

Priming Pelargonium prefers fertile and well-drained. It consists of turf land, humus, peat and sand in approximately equal proportions.

Lifespan an individual pelargonium bush is usually 2-5 years, after which the plant loses its decorative effect and it is better to take care of renewal in time by rooting cuttings. It will take about a year or a little more to grow an ornamental flowering plant from a cutting. Cuttings rooted in early spring may bloom as early as this summer, but it is advisable to give preference to the formation of a beautiful bush for abundant flowering in next year.

cuttings can be taken at any time, from early spring to autumn. But here it is necessary to take into account the time of flowering of the plant, which for different varieties is from 16 to 20 weeks after the last pinching or pruning (flowering occurs on young shoots that have reached this age). If you have a single copy of this variety, then you will have to wait for the end of flowering to cut the cuttings. If there are several copies, then it is better to take cuttings earlier, starting from February-March, then young plant there will be more time to develop for lush flowering next year, up to this point it is necessary to remove all emerging buds. It is not recommended to take cuttings before the end of January, with a short daylight hours. By this time, the plants are just beginning to wake up from a cool winter. If you take cuttings from dormant plants, then the level of growth hormones in them is low and rooting will take longer. For such pelargoniums as angels, royal and fragrant, it is advisable to take cuttings at the end of winter or early spring (later, with an increase in light levels, flower buds will begin to be laid closer to the tops of the shoots). For most varieties of zonal pelargoniums, this period is not so important, since their flower buds are laid along the entire length of the shoot and cuttings can be taken at any time during the growing season.

Cuttings must be cut only from healthy and powerful plants - the stronger and stockier the cutting, the better it will develop in the future. For cuttings, take the apical parts of the shoots about 5-7 cm long, from miniature and dwarf varieties- about 2.5-3 cm. The lower leaves and stipules should be carefully removed, under the lower node, make an oblique cut with a slight slope. Dry the lower cut of the cutting in the air, depending on the conditions, this may take from several hours to several minutes. You can use drugs that stimulate root formation, but pelargonium gives roots well without their use.

Rooting takes from 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the conditions and variety. The roots are formed on the lower cut of the cutting. As a soil for rooting, a mixture of sterile peat substrate and perlite is used in approximately equal proportions. It is important that water does not stagnate in the soil. Sterilizing the soil before use reduces the chance of cuttings rotting. Small pots (6 cm in diameter) or transparent cups (100-200 ml in volume) are filled with earth mixture and kept on a tray with water until the upper part of the substrate begins to be wetted. After that, the soil is allowed to dry for about a day.

Another method of rooting is also popular. They take two pots, insert a second, narrower pot into a wider one, fill the space between them with soil, and prepared cuttings are planted here. They are immersed in the ground by about 1-3 cm (depending on the variety) and lightly pressed.

The next watering is carried out sparingly and through the pan when the soil dries. It is advisable to introduce a systemic fungicide into the soil after planting the cuttings during the second irrigation. A greenhouse for rooting cuttings of pelargonium is not required. The first 2-3 days, the leaves may wilt (do not put the cuttings in sunlight!), later they restore turgor.

Optimum temperature rooting of cuttings of pelargonium - about + 20 + 22 o C.

After rooting the first pinching the cutting is carried out when it forms 8-10 leaves. With a sharp sterile knife, the apical point of growth is removed. This stimulates the growth of side shoots from the axils of the remaining leaves. If shoots begin to grow only from 1-2 upper buds, then it is advisable to remove them or pinch them as soon as they give 3 leaves. The next pinchings are carried out as the side shoots grow, when they form 8-10 leaves. This will ensure lush branching, and subsequently abundant flowering. It is optimal to form a crown in the form of a 2/3 ball. The last pinching of the plant is carried out no later than 16-20 weeks (depending on the variety) before the expected flowering. Since flowering is influenced by external factors(illuminance), then you can expect it to start in May or June, so the last pinching is carried out no later than February. As they grow, diseased or weak shoots are removed, too rapidly growing ones are shortened, trying to maintain uniformity of the roots. Also cut out all the leaves that do not match the grade in size or color.

As the young plant grows, it is several times a season transplanted(neat transshipment) into a slightly larger pot, not trying to immediately give a large volume. Transshipment is carried out only when the roots tightly braid the lump. For a one-year-old plant, the maximum size of the pot should not exceed: for miniature - 9 cm, dwarf varieties and angels - 11 cm, for other varieties - no more than 15 cm in diameter. The last transplant of the cuttings rooted this season is carried out closer to the winter rest or after it ends at the beginning of the next season.

Pruning an old plant after flowering, taking cuttings

After the end of flowering of the mother plant, apical cuttings are cut from it for rooting. Pelargoniums are very susceptible to fungal diseases, so it is advisable to make a cut on the mother plant above the node and be sure to treat the cut site with a fungicide, sprinkle with coal or sulfur, these measures will reduce the likelihood of rotting of the stems. It is optimal to carry out cuttings in warm weather, this also reduces the risk of disease. It is better not to remove old leaves that remain on the plant at this time, as they will soon begin to grow. side shoots. As young shoots grow, old leaves are removed. As soon as the young shoots grow 8-10 leaves, they are pinched.

To give uniformity to the crown and stimulate good flowering, old specimens are carried out immediately after winter rest. pruning, remove frail and diseased shoots, shorten long ones, leaving 2 to 5 buds on each shoot. It is undesirable to carry out pruning in the fall, because at home, without strict adherence to cool wintering conditions, weak side shoots are formed that will have to be removed.

reproduction

cuttings. Pelargonium reproduces well with the help of cuttings - this is the main method of propagation of varietal plants, only it completely (excluding cases of the appearance of somatic mutations - spots) guarantees the preservation of all varietal characteristics in the plant. Read about cuttings of pelargoniums above.

seed propagation. Many cultivars are hybrid in nature, and even if they can set seeds, plants from such seeds will not necessarily retain the varietal qualities of the original plants. Species pelargoniums and a small number of varieties are successfully grown from seeds.

Mostly on sale you can find seeds of hybrids F1 (first generation) and hybrids F2 (second generation), they are produced by large seed companies by crossing two different varieties. Plants grown from such seeds are not very interesting for collectors, but are more suitable for mass gardening - they do not differ in the richness of colors, but they have increased resistance.

The optimal time for sowing seeds is the end of January - February. With an increase in daylight hours, it will be possible to grow strong seedlings, and seedlings are likely to bloom this summer. You can sow earlier, but in winter you will definitely need additional lighting so that the seedlings do not stretch.

For seed germination, poor sterile soil is used. Seeds are sown on the surface, sprinkled with a thin layer (literally 2-3 mm) of the earth mixture, spilled and not covered with anything. The optimum temperature for germination is + 20 + 24 ° C. You can sow the seeds one at a time in individual small cups, then picking is not required. Shoots appear in 2-3 weeks.

Diseases and pests

Great damage to pelargoniums gray rot. It appears in the form gray plaque on leaves and other plant parts. Its occurrence provokes coolness, dampness, waterlogging, poor ventilation. Especially often the disease occurs during winter rest, which is why it is so important to provide plants with good ventilation, not to put them close to each other, and to remove diseased and unnecessary leaves in time.
Often found on pelargoniums rust. It manifests itself in the form of concentric yellowish spots on the top and brown below on the leaves.
From waterlogging of the soil can be observed stem rot, which manifests itself in the form of dark depressed spots at the base of the stem. This is the certain death of the plant, but you can try to take the apical cutting.
verticillium wilt caused by a fungus that infects the conducting system of the plant. The disease manifests itself in the gradual yellowing and wilting of the plant and is not treatable.
Damage is also possible with other pathogenic fungi that cause on leaves, petioles and other parts of plants. different kinds spotting.

It is important to carry out preventive treatments of plants from fungal diseases in a timely manner, especially on the eve of winter holidays. Plants are abundantly sprayed with drugs or immersed with a crown in a container with a fungicide. It is advisable to use broad-spectrum systemic fungicides, such as Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Topsin, etc. When a fungal disease is detected, diseased parts of the plant are removed, and treated with the same preparations.

Pelargonium is often affected whitefly. When purchasing a plant, carefully inspect the lower part of the leaf for the presence of small white butterflies or white capsular formations, their larvae. If you find at least a few individuals, you should refuse to buy.
Upon detection mealybug It's also better not to buy a plant. In the axils of the leaves, on the stems, clusters can be seen that look like pieces of white cotton wool.
Pelargoniums can also be affected thrips, aphids, ticks.

Physiological disorders not associated with diseases or pests

Leaf reddening. The reason is that the temperature is too low. We need to change the conditions.
The plant does not bloom although its general condition is good. The reason may be hiding in too high a temperature, lack of light or excessive watering.
The leaves turn yellow and fall, the edges of the leaves dry. The reason may be insufficient watering, with a strong exposure of the stem - a lack of light.

Photo: Nina Starostenko, Rita Brilliantova

Geranium is a predominantly perennial (most often herbaceous) plant belonging to the geranium family. There are also shrub species. It is characterized by large (usually 5 petal) flowers of various colors. Each sheet is a separate plate with smooth edges or dissected like individual fingers. The shape of the fruit is a box, resembling the long nose of a crane.

Growing geraniums is so easy that you can say: "Geranium is the most unpretentious culture." Moreover, it does not matter whether it grows in your garden, being a real geranium, recognized by botanical classifications, or is located in an apartment on the windowsill. In the second case, home flower only conditionally it will be possible to call geraniums, since most likely it will belong to another genus of the same family - pelargoniums.

Pelargoniums differ from geraniums in the irregular symmetry of the flower petals, the presence of a special narrow strip of nectar at one of the petals, the number of flowers collected together in one bright inflorescence. And, of course, frost resistance. Since Africa is the birthplace of pelargonium, this indoor plant can endure winter time only in warmth. Real geranium, which came from the alpine meadows of Europe, from North America calmly overwinter in the temperate climate of the northern hemisphere, even in the wild.

Planting a geranium

Landing methods

When planting geraniums in the open, it is best to use seedlings purchased or grown in advance. In this case, it is necessary to plant, choosing not too light soils. Geranium is a plant that loves loose, but rather heavy soils. In the flower garden, it is not recommended to thicken the plantings. Quite 12-15 plants per square meter to make them feel good.

When landing in an apartment, choose sunny places, and do not be afraid of the brightest rays. Pelargonium, in extreme cases, can discolor the leaves a little, but then it will calmly recover. Choose a flower pot not too small, with good drainage. Water generously for the first week. This also applies to outdoor types of geraniums and domestic pelargoniums.

Optimal landing time

In order for geraniums to please you on the site, it is better to plant them in open ground after the threat of night frosts, which for Middle lane Russia means - the beginning of June.

If desired, put new flower on the windowsill, do this at any time except autumn. Spring, summer and even the end of winter are the right time to plant pelargoniums. They will have time to feed on solar energy for further overwintering.

soil for the plant

When choosing soil for pelargoniums, you can use ready mixes their stores, or you can compose them yourself in the following proportion:

sod land - 2 parts;
leaf humus - 2 parts;
sand - 1 part;
peat - 1 part.

Some recipes mention clay as a substrate component. In this case, you need to take a share of clay and sand and add 3 shares of compost land there.

Location and lighting for the plant

Geranium is a very sun-loving plant. It withstands both the bright sun without any shading (in this case it blooms profusely and magnificently), and the usual light of windows facing north. But in this case, additional illumination will be necessary for flowering. When in the spring (already in April) daily air temperatures begin to exceed 10 degrees, geraniums can (and should) be taken out into the street. And with the departure of the likelihood of frost, you can completely move the pots of geraniums to Fresh air.

Air humidity

Humidity does not matter much for geraniums. But what you definitely should not do is spray the plant on the leaves. It's more likely to do harm than good. But what

Temperature regime for a flower

Pelargonium prefers moderate temperatures. In summer, about 20 degrees, in winter - about 15. Do not overcool the flower with temperatures below 10 degrees. This can lead to irreversible consequences and the loss of the plant.

How to water properly

Pelargonium should be watered like any other home flower. In moderation, avoiding constant waterlogging of the soil. Usually watered once or twice a week in summer. Ideally, you should not set a fixed watering schedule. The main thing to watch out for is that the clod of earth on top has time to dry out in the period from watering to the next watering. Since it is always better to under-water than over-water, you can also water on a tray, allowing the soil to absorb the right amount of moisture and draining excess water after a few hours.

But don't dry it out either. In winter, watered on average once every 10 days.
How many types of pelargonium exist, there are so many different options for moistening the soil. After all, royal pelargonium loves watering very much, and zonal - much less.

Flower nutrition and fertilizer

In the case when you want to achieve a good and abundant flowering of pelargonium, feed it once a week. V mineral fertilizers give the predominance of potassium and phosphorus components.

In winter, it is better to either completely stop fertilizing or do it no more than 1 time per month.

pruning

Pruning geraniums (pelargonium) is simply necessary:

compact decorative look;
the process of future flowering is more powerful;
using pruning, cuttings are obtained for breeding new plants

Trimming methods

Trimmed either selectively or completely mother plant. Tools are clean and disinfected. Knife, pruner, razor should be sharp enough.

Geranium transplant

You only need to repot geraniums when you see that the pot is getting too small for the plant. This can happen either when buying a finished flower in a store or when growing. Young plants are transplanted once or twice a year. Then you don't have to do it.

Transplant methods

Since geranium takes root remarkably and does not require special efforts, transplantation can be carried out by transshipment (when a lump of earth is carefully rearranged entirely into a larger pot and filled with earth). If the roots are damaged by the disease, then it is better to clean the roots from the old filler and plant them in a new pot with new soil.

Geranium propagation

Geraniums are propagated in order to obtain new plants that will eventually replace the old ones. It is much easier and faster to do this than with representatives of many other families.

Of course, there are exceptions here too. So rarer varieties bred in Lately breeders require specific conditions and effort. But basically pelargonium breeds without difficulty.

Reproduction methods

If the geranium is ampelous, then it is possible to cut off individual cuttings for propagation. In order for your bush pelargonium (low, compact) to remain as attractive, usually cut off all the stems, leaving 2-3 cm.

Sequencing:

the stalk is cut at an angle;
cut off all buds and leaves, leaving 3-4 buds;
dry the cutting (5-7 cm long) in the air (can be treated with coal dust);
planted in water or small cups with well-drained and disinfected soil;
provide constant maintenance of humidity and temperature of about 20 degrees.

In some cases, seed propagation is practiced for geraniums. In this case, the optimal time for planting seeds is spring. To facilitate the process, you can use peat tablets.

Flowering period, flower shape

It is impossible to give specific dates for the flowering of geraniums. Depending on the variety and even on the conditions of detention, it can bloom all year round. Flowers are also unimaginably diverse in both color and shape.

There are flowers similar to roses in doubleness and size, they are similar to stars or tulips. But the usual flowering time is spring, summer and early autumn.

Plant care after flowering

In autumn, when the vegetation and flowering period is over, it is recommended to prepare geraniums for winter rest. To do this, the plant is pruned (optional), the flower stalks are necessarily removed in order to avoid decay, watered and cleaned in a cooler place, limiting both watering and feeding for a dormant period.

Problems, diseases and pests in a flower

Geraniums in nature have practically no pests. Flower diseases can be divided into two categories: viral and fungal. Fungal infections tend to spread rather slowly and are much easier to treat. Viral (bacterial) ones are almost not treatable, it is easier to start another copy of the plant, destroying the one that suddenly fell ill with the infection together.

In room conditions, the plant can get sick:

root or stem rot;
leaf spot;
fungus Botrytis;
bacteriosis;
leaf rust.

Root (stem) rot is caused by the fungus Pythium or Rhizoctonia. Characteristic of this disease are the stems and leaves that first become brown and then black. In the future, the entire flower undergoes decay and dies.

Control measures: control of soil and air humidity, the use of antifungal drugs.

Spotting is caused by the fungus Alternaria (leaf damage in the form of brown spots with yellow patches), or the fungus Cercospora (leaf defects in the form of pale spots turning into a grayish coating).

Prevention of the disease is similar to all antifungal. Namely: removing excess moisture, preventing the growth of green mass for accelerated drying.

The fungus Botrytis begins as spots on the leaves with a grayish coating, on the stems - brown. Sometimes the disease occurs from high humidity, sometimes from the fact that the falling flowers are not removed in time and remain on the leaves, creating weeping areas.

Prevention methods- watering without affecting the leaves, timely picking up wilted flowers. Watering is recommended to be done in the morning, so that the water has time to dry before the cool night time. In case of disease, it is necessary to fight by removing infected parts and whole plants.

Bacteriosis can be very difficult to diagnose because its symptoms vary depending on the different varieties. But the progress of the disease is fast. Viruses destroy the plant with brown spots, deformed veins, etc.

Leaf rust shows up as spots yellow color first on the upper surface of the sheet, passing then to its lower side. On the lower surfaces, clumps with spores form, which open and form a rim in the form of rusty stitches. Spreading, spores infect the entire leaf, leading to its death.

Ways to protect the plant - prevent the accumulation of water on the leaves, avoid high humidity at low temperatures, inspect the flower from time to time and remove the infected parts, and then treat with fungicides.

Popular species (varieties)

Among the varieties of street geranium can be identified:

swamp;

blood red;

Himalayan.

Pelargoniums can be divided into:

a huge assortment of zonal pelargoniums (due to a specially colored zone in the middle of the flower);

ivy pelargoniums (ampelous) with whip-like flexible stems;

varieties of varieties royal (large-flowered) »;

several types of pelargoniums at once, united by the common name "type of Angels";

fragrant pelargoniums;
some others.

Very interesting are the varieties bred by breeders with heterogeneous leaf color - the so-called variegated varieties.

A separate type of pelargonium is very different in appearance and growth conditions - succulent pelargonium. These are exotic plants with lignified trunks, and in some cases even with thorns.

Some gardeners practice a noteworthy way to get geraniums to bloom profusely: watering with iodine. This is done as follows: one drop of iodine 5% alcohol tincture dissolves in a liter of water and 50 ml of such a mixture is poured onto each plant (trying to pour not on the roots in the middle, but closer to the walls of the pot).

It is also useful to remember that geranium loves fresh air and until late autumn pots with pelargonium can grow on balconies, loggias and even in the garden.

Answers to questions from readers

plant life span

Perennial bush varieties of geraniums can grow in one place for up to 20 years. But in the case of growing heat-loving pelargonium at home, it makes sense to completely change the flower to a completely renewed one every 5 years. After all, decorative properties deteriorate after 2-3 years of growth. Therefore, the targeted formation of the bush is very important.

Can this plant be kept at home?

Indoor geranium (pelargonium) remains one of the most common and beloved inhabitants of our homes. With ease of care, this flower has a very beautiful appearance and is distinguished by a huge variety of varieties.

Even people who are not fond of feng shui and horoscopes claim that geranium creates a special comfort in the house and, as it were, calms, heals the atmosphere of the apartment, and relieves stress.

Is this flower poisonous?

Some types of pelargonium are so rich essential oils that the word "fragrant" is even added to their name. This smell basically plays a very positive role in our lives. There is air disinfection, bringing healing aromas into our atmosphere of closed spaces. Even the fact that domestic animals are unlikely to eat a strong-smelling plant will benefit both the plant and the animal.

The exception is allergy sufferers. But this is a special article. And even such people may develop an allergy, or vice versa, to facilitate breathing and the condition of the body. The question is very individual. The only thing - in general, geranium (pelargonium) is not toxic.

Why won't geraniums bloom?

When a plant decorates itself with flowers, it means that it is completely comfortable and has enough of everything: moisture, light, useful substances. Usually geraniums (pelargoniums) bloom profusely and for a long time. But if even such an undemanding flower upsets the lack of flowering, then it needs to be added. Feed (in moderation). You can try to put additional lighting.
Remember that in winter a flower may simply request a rest and not bloom for some time (usually until spring) for physiological reasons. But after a dormant period, it will bloom brightly and magnificently. But if you did not provide him with this rest and the winter was not cool and calm for him, then in the summer you can quite naturally lose this flowering.

There is another interesting point: when the container for the flower is taken too spacious, the plant will most likely increase the foliage mass. And only when the roots fill the pot in the normal way, the growth of greenery will stop or slow down and the time will come for flowering.

Why does geranium turn yellow and dry

There is no single answer to this question. First of all, it is necessary to distinguish between the natural process of dying off of old (mandatory lower) leaves and more disturbing yellowing with loss of turgor of the upper leaves.
If the leaves began to turn yellow en masse, then reconsider the watering regimen. The plant is likely to dry out. But it also happens that yellowing will be added brown spots. This is already a sign of waterlogging, and maybe even a disease and the plant needs treatment, or even more correctly, its transplantation and re-growing an already healthy flower.

Plants stretched upwards with thin bare stems make it clear that they do not have enough light. Add artificial lighting or move to more sunny windows.

Geranium care in winter.

Again, we will divide the topic for indoor pelargoniums and for those geranium bushes that grew in the garden in the summer, and now it's time to protect them from the coming cold weather.

Dig up the geranium completely, gently shake off the roots from the ground and hang, tying in bunches with other dug specimens, providing high humidity(at least 80%) and coolness (from 2 to 8 degrees). Once every two weeks, it is recommended to additionally moisten the roots by dipping them in water. Such landless (dry) storage will allow the flower to hibernate and rest, gather strength for new seasons of growth and flowering, before which you should not forget to cut the roots and twigs by a third.
Plants are dug up, the roots are significantly shortened and planted in prepared pots in a cool place. At the same time, they carefully monitor the moisture entering the plant. It is equally harmful to both pour and dry the flower. Lighting is greatly reduced. You can characterize the conditions of winter overexposure of geraniums as twilight.

For a houseplant, it is also necessary to change the care in winter period:

move from heaters that dry the air to a cooler place;
reduce watering;
reduce or even stop feeding.

In winter, flower growers are faced with such a phenomenon as the acquisition of reddish-reddish color by pelargonium leaves.

Why do geranium leaves turn red?

The reason is that the plant freezes. Check if it is close to the cold glass of the window or if there is a draft directed directly at the plant. "Warming" the flower, you will get rid of this phenomenon. It will be useful to put a pot of geraniums in advance on a base that does not conduct heat well (wood, foam plastic) and move the leaves away from the icy touch of window panes.

Pelargonium zonal is a beautiful houseplant. But no matter how we are used to seeing it on the windowsill, it turns out that it can also be grown on the street: in garden beds, in flower beds, in parks. It can serve as a good decoration even for city squares. The main task before planting in an open area is to determine the correct plant variety, since not all types of pelargonium are suitable for the street. Of course, caring for her also plays a big role. Despite the fact that the flower is completely unpretentious and hardy, it is necessary to follow the basic rules for cultivating this plant so that it pleases the eye with flowering for many years. Therefore, it is necessary to study how to properly care for a flower in winter, and the requirements for care. Then the zonal pelargonium at home on the windowsill or in the garden will turn into a beautiful flower bed.

Briefly about what is pelargonium

This plant is from the Geraniev family in the form of a shrub.
Her natural area - South America. However, at present it can be found in completely different countries.
Based on its habitat, pelargonium is very fond of light and warmth. In addition, it is resistant to dry periods.
The leaves of the flower are characteristic of the Geraniev family - a palmately dissected form.
Perennial, depending on the variety, will have both a straight and creeping stem.
Zonal pelargonium flowers are always very colorful, consisting of textured lines. They appear for quite a long time in the summer.
The average duration of preservation of the appearance of the plant is 2-2.5 years. After this time, the zonal pelargonium must be updated, since appearance spoils.
Despite the fact that pelargonium and geranium are from the same family, they require different care.

What are the varieties of pelargonium?

Pelargonium has a huge number of different varieties - there are more than 200. But the most popular species stand out, which can often be found on the windowsill or in the garden.

Royal. This variety is a wide bushes of small size, on which large flowers appear. Peduncles are located with the plant bush on the same level. Most often, the variety is used for home breeding. The appearance of a flowering culture can be compared to a fluffy bright ball.
Tulip-shaped. By name, we can conclude that the type of plant is very similar to a tulip. And there is. Flowers closely resemble unopened buds. There is a variety of shades - from light pink to burgundy. The leaves of this species are very shiny and have a hard texture.
Rozebudnaya. Here you can also navigate by name. The flowering of the culture will take the gardener to a park of roses. The flower has a lot of petals, and all of them are close enough to each other, which is why they form a shape close to a small rose. Lush buds will serve as a wonderful decoration.
Terry. Pelargonium inflorescences of this variety are distinguished by terry petals. Color can be found for every taste: crimson, pale salmon, lilac.
Angular. The plant will be very tall - up to 100 cm. The shape of the leaves of the species is quite unusual - the leaves are short-leaved, can be compared with oak leaves. Inflorescence in the form of a bright red umbrella.
capitate. Compared with the previous variety, this crop will be half as much - about 50 cm. The shrub constantly pleases the eye with green color. The flowers are also in the form of an umbrella pink-purple hue. At the same time, pelargonium emits a simply magical aroma.
Curly. This species is highly branched. The bush will not grow more than 50 cm, but will be evergreen. The leaves are shaped like a heart and grow in two rows. Their edges are torn and serrated.
Fluffy. The variety of fluffy pelargonium is characterized by thick stems and lobar leaves. The flowers have a snow-white color, while the inner core is bright red. 5-6 similar inflorescences are connected together and create an umbrella.
Fleshy. The perennial of this species has a very small size - only 30 cm. Its leaves are in a lowered state and have a distinct venation. The flowers generally appear either white or pale beige with small red flecks.
Thick-stemmed. Here the name speaks for itself - the stem of the culture is very thick, and the plant itself reaches a size of about 20 cm. Compared to other types of pelargonium, this is quite small. The wide leaf has a silvery pubescence. The flowers appear in the form of standard umbels, but the colors vary from yellow to purple.
Fragrant. This shrub is distinguished by its branches and, of course, by its strong aroma, which does not come from the flowers, but from the leaves of the plant. Inflorescences according to the standard take the form of an umbrella.
Large-flowered. For outdoor cultivation, the large-flowered variety is not entirely suitable. He is very moody and requires special care. The plant will not be able without constant heat. Its height is from 30 to 60 cm, which is an average. Inflorescences have a corrugated structure and a large size.
Klobuchkova. This type notable for dense terry bright green foliage, which is lowered down. Flowers are purple-red.
Dirty. Another variety that grows almost the tallest. Its size can reach about one and a half meters. The leaves are rounded dark green, planted on a rather fleshy stem. And the bush is decorated with bright scarlet flowers, which can be compared with lights.
Ivy. As for this variety of pelargonium, it is not at all suitable for planting in open areas. Cold spells are detrimental to him. The foliage of this culture can be compared to ivy. The inflorescences are very variegated.
Pink. Based on the name, you can understand that the inflorescences have a pink tint. They are located on a branching shrub.
Pelargonium zonal (varieties, we will consider the photo below). This is the most common and unpretentious type. It is perfect for breeding both on the windowsill and in parks and gardens. The zonal pelargonium leaf has a clear pattern. The shrub is very resistant to drought and other critical conditions. Even frost up to 5-6 0 C is not terrible for him. Therefore, it is so popular among flower growers.

Having studied all varieties of pelargonium, we can conclude that it is best to give preference to the zonal species.

What varieties does zonal pelargonium have?

In order to easily navigate when buying, you need to know the main varieties of this plant.

By height:

From 42 cm in height are called tall.
With a height of not more than 40 cm - medium height.
Less than 12.5 cm - undersized.

For petals:

Up to five petals on a flower are simple.
From 5 to 8 petals - semi-double.
More than 8 petals - terry.

Bloom form:

Bouquet - standard inflorescences in the form of an umbrella.
Star-shaped have pointed teeth on the petals.
Cactus-flowered with narrow petals, which are similar to dahlias.
Phlox-flowered are distinguished by two shades in one inflorescence - white and crimson at the edges.
Tulip-flowers correspond to the name and resemble a bud in shape.
Rosebuds. Their flowers are very reminiscent of rosebuds.
Carnations can be compared in inflorescence with carnations due to dissected wavy edges.

Leaf color and shape:

Greens. The leaves are special in that they have circles either a shade darker or a shade lighter than their own in the form of a horseshoe.
Variegated. This variety destroys stereotypes about flowers, as it is grown not because of the beautiful inflorescences, but because of the beauty of the leaves. They have a very bizarre color and shape. The color of the leaf excites the imagination - it can be pink, and bronze and yellow, etc.

The best varieties of zonal pelargonium: photos, reviews

Rafaella. The plant is distinguished by beautiful, compact, well-branched, strong, dense and dense bushes. Lush and beautiful balls have a very rich color palette. The hybrid quickly and easily grows from seeds. The first shoots begin to appear after 1-1.5 weeks. Pelargonium zonal Raphaella grows both as an indoor potted flower, and on well-lit balconies, and as an annual in garden flower beds. The plant has good resistance to heat, tolerates a short-term drop in temperature well. Planting zonal pelargonium for seedlings is carried out in January-March.
Chandelier Mix. A magnificent perennial compact plant with large flowers collected in spherical inflorescences. The leaves are rounded. Flowers in a variety of colors. Pelargonium zonal Chandelier Mix prefers sunny places and loose, fertile soils. Grows well both indoors and outdoors. open field.
White. Very gentle and beautiful plant, able to give any garden lightness and charm. White zonal pelargonium is a low plant, the stem of which is only up to 30 cm. It grows well at home in pots and in flower beds.

Pelargonium zonal reviews received the most positive. This is a real decoration of apartments and front gardens.

How to plant?

Flower growers actively practice two types of pelargonium propagation: cuttings and seeds.

Cutting propagation. This is the most popular way that even a beginner can handle. At the same time, the characteristics of the variety remain the same. First you need to cut 5-15 cm upper part escape. All lower leaves and peduncles are removed from the finished cutting. The place that was used for the cut needs to be air-dried for several hours. Provided that the leaves on the process are too large, it is allowed to cut them only half. For rooting, it is quite possible to use an ordinary glass of water, but a mixture of peat, perlite and sand will be a priority. The prepared soil must be periodically moistened, but always monitor the stagnation of moisture and prevent this from happening. The roots must be exposed to light, and the temperature must be warm. Complex fertilizers will help strengthen the sprouts. In the future, it remains only to transplant the grown culture into a pot.
Growing pelargonium zonal from seeds. While one can be completely sure that all maternal characteristics will be preserved when using cuttings for propagation, this does not always work in the case of seeds. Mostly crossed shrubs grow from two varieties. In order for the seed container to sprout, it is necessary to keep it warm at a temperature of about 20-25 0 C with diffused light. It is not required to cover, but it is necessary to moisten periodically. In a couple of weeks, the first sprouts should already appear. As soon as two pairs of small leaves erupt on them, the seedlings can be safely transferred to full-fledged pots.

How to care for a flower?

Zonal pelargonium is not in vain advised to all beginners - there are practically no problems with its departure. It is enough to follow a few basic rules. The main thing is to water it correctly and make sure that bright light hits the pot. Consider what kind of zonal care is needed for pelargonium.

Subtleties of lighting and temperature

In no case should you allow a lack of light for this beauty. Otherwise, she will leave you without flowers and will delight you with a half-empty stem with small leaves. To be able to observe a chic hat and fragrant flowers, you need to pick up a pot in the brightest place, for example, the south side of the house. But, if after some time in the sun faded yellow spots began to appear on the leaves, then you definitely need to add shadows. In winter for good lighting small lamps are suitable.

The heat for the little beauty is harmful. She will not endure 30-degree heat in any way. The standard for zonal F1 pelargonium is stable +20 degrees, maximum +25. Drafts and cold glass are also enemies for the plant.

Air and watering

In the care of flower culture, rational watering must be present without fail. If there is too little water for pelargonium, this can be understood by yellow and dry leaves, and if you overdo it, you can say goodbye to a healthy root system. Once upper layer soil becomes dry, you need to add moisture. In winter, one or two times in two weeks is enough.

Transplant and fertilizer

Because of accelerated growth zonal pelargonium, you must immediately take care of the possibilities of transplantation. From spring to autumn is the best period for this. If the crop is grown outdoors, then for the cold season, starting in autumn, you will have to transplant it into pots and keep it until the summer, until the soil and air warm up sufficiently.

In fertilizers, pelargonium is not particularly picky, so a universal fertilizer complex for tomatoes or flowering plants is quite suitable for it. The only thing to check in the composition is a small content of substances such as phosphorus and potassium, and a minimum of nitrogen. After transplantation, it is not recommended to fertilize the crop for another 1.5 months. In the cold season, it is enough to fertilize the soil about once a month.

pruning

In order for the shape of the bush to remain decorative and delight with its beauty, its formation should be monitored. Otherwise, nothing but rare flowers and an elongated stem can be expected. A species such as zonal pelargonium stands out among other varieties with very fast growth, so we must not forget about pruning and pinching.

Diseases and pests

Even if the pelargonium has grown to its full potential and began to bloom, sooner or later pests can start their attacks: ticks, worms, aphids and other insects. Then you need to immediately save the flower with the help of special preparations. The main thing is to notice the damage in time. The most common pest that attacks pelargonium is white butterflies, which are called whiteflies. They lay their larvae on the underside of the leaf, so it is difficult to notice them with a cursory glance. Soapy water is a great weapon. To do this, it is necessary to properly rinse the flower and wrap it in polyethylene for several days. If the damage is too strong, and improvised means can no longer cope with them, you can use "Aktara", but only strictly according to the instructions.

The black leg is the trouble of most young plants. It arises due to the fact that the conditions of care were not met. For example, too frequent watering or low air temperature may well contribute to the development of this disease. The same unpleasant disease is mold fungus. The most important thing is to take rescue measures in time: remove all damaged leaves and flowers in order to prevent the spread of infection. A solution of fungicides will help to destroy the infection.

For almost a century, breeders around the world have been breeding new and new varieties of pelargonium. Thanks to their labors, an incredibly large number of various varieties and varieties of this ornamental plant were obtained. The culture is not overly demanding on growing conditions and, with proper care, will surely answer you with lush, luxurious flowering. For your attention, detailed information about zonal pelargonium, as well as its best varieties (photos with names and descriptions are attached).

About zonal pelargonium

This is one of the most common plant groups, represented by large quantity types and varieties. Zonal varieties, belonging to the group of the same name, are considered for the reason that they have a certain zone on the leaves, painted in a different color (most often in the form of a small annular or rounded spot). Pelargonium zonal is perfect for growing not only indoors, but also in open areas.

The variety is represented by an erect, fairly branched and powerful bush, densely covered with foliage. The bush is covered with small lush flowers-umbrellas. The leaves are strongly pubescent, have a specific smell. Zonal pelargoniums are also divided into several varieties depending on the number of petals on the flowers. So, they are 5-8-petal (sometimes more).

Pelargonium - unpretentious plant

Zonal pelargonium is a plant that is quite unpretentious to growing conditions, but quite demanding for care. It is necessary to provide it with the right amount of solar heat and light, nutritious and regular top dressing, saturate it with moisture, etc.

Advice. In winter, it is necessary to provide the plant with sufficient access to cool air. If this is not possible, remove as many bare shoots from the plant as possible in the spring.

The main classification of zonal pelargonium

Zonal pelargoniums, in turn, can be divided into several subgroups:

Rosaceae. All varieties presented in this category have luxurious double flowers, outwardly very reminiscent of classic roses.

rosacea pelargonium

Tulip-shaped. Flowers of varieties from this group are small flowers collected in inflorescences. Outwardly, they resemble small unopened tulip-shaped buds. The petals of tulip-shaped pelargoniums are distinguished by a rather unusual appearance: they are slightly inclined inward and lowered, as if they had already begun to wither. This in no way means that the plants really wither. In fact, the sluggish appearance of the petals - specific feature varieties.

Tulip Pelargonium

Star-shaped. Star-shaped pelargoniums are completely different from their "compatriots": the flowers of these dwarf plants have an unusual shape of a pointed star. Moreover, quite often the two largest petals have an elongated shape with a sharp end, which distinguishes them from the rest.

star pelargonium

Carnations. The varieties presented in this category are outwardly very similar to garden cloves: they are just as large, with carved petals of a fairly bright shade.

Carnation Pelargonium

Cactus. A fairly rare variety of zonal pelargonium, which is represented by a fairly large, strongly leafy bush. Leaves are broad and bright green. Flowers of cactus-like varieties look rather unusual: their petals seem to be folded into narrow tubes. Quite often they have a slightly "tousled" look.

cactus pelargonium

Deacons. Quite young hybrids appeared on the world flower market less than 50 years ago. Presented very compact abundantly flowering bush with a small flower rosette of soft peach, pink or red.

Pelargonium deacon

Let us consider in more detail several of the best representatives in each category of the zonal variety of pelargonium. Among the most popular rose varieties several can be distinguished:

April Snow is a dwarf neat plant with small double flowers pink in the form of roses.
Denise is a powerful plant that every year is covered with a large terry cap of pink or peach color.
Monseruds Rosen - not easy to grow - quite difficult to form the desired shape, has a luxurious burgundy flowering.

Among the most popular star varieties pelargonium can be distinguished as follows:

Aunty Pam - Stellar. The variety is represented by a fairly compact well-branched bush, densely covered with luxurious bright pink flower rosettes. Outwardly, the flower petals resemble a small terry carnation.
Borthwood - Stellar. Another excellent star-shaped variety, represented by a strongly flowering dwarf bush, the leaves of which are slightly shaped like frog legs.
fandango. A rather unusual variety, the flowers of which look slightly "shabby": the shape of the petals is slightly torn, with fuzzy edges. Flowering in plants is abundant, lush, the flowers are distinguished by a pleasant pale coral hue.

Pelargonium Fandango

Among cactus varieties pelargonium can be noted such.

Pelargonium is an amazing plant that has long been known to all lovers of floriculture. It has a lot of advantages - from a decorative look with beautiful long flowering to a number of useful properties. Pelargonium is suitable for growing not only at home, but also on the street, in front gardens, in flower beds and alpine slides.

The original homeland of pelargonium - South Africa, from where at the beginning of the 17th century, it was brought to Holland. She was placed in the Leiden Botanical Garden. From there, pelargonium spread to France and England. Soon the flower interested many flower growers, botanists and artists and became widely known.

Types and photos of pelargonium

In total, there are over 250 species of pelargonium. For ease of classification, they are divided into the following groups:

Zonal pelargoniums. The most popular group, most often grown by flower growers. There are many varieties of this species, there are several thousand of them. Differs in unpretentiousness and plentiful blossoming. Bushes erect, densely leafy. The leaf blades are covered with a short fluff of densely growing hairs, wavy along the edge.

The zonal group can be with simple, semi-double and double flowers. According to the shape of the inflorescence are divided into:

tulip - flowers look like a tulip bud;
cactus - resemble chrysanthemum petals - narrowed and twisted;
Formosa hybrids - star-shaped inflorescences, leaf blades strongly divided into 5 parts;
stellate - flowers look like five-pointed stars;
rosebuds - inflorescences resemble an incompletely opened rose bud;
deacons - a hybrid of ivy and zonal geraniums, the most distinctive quality is a very abundant flowering. The color of flowers can be red, pink or red. The inflorescences themselves are small, the bush is compact.

Zonal pelargoniums, there are many varieties of the most popular is the Alice variety.

Zonal pelargoniums are two-color, tri-color, speckled and with a bird's egg color - on the petals there are spots of a darker tone in the shape of an egg. According to the size of the bushes, they are divided into microminiature plants (less than 10 cm in height), miniature (10-13 cm), dwarf (13-20 cm), normal (25-60 cm) and airins (up to 80 cm). Among the zonal pelargoniums, there are many varieties, the most spectacular and beloved include Alice, Angelica, Bev Foster, Bolero, Flamenco, Tuscany, Connie, Diana Louise, Fantasia, Fifi.

Royal Pelargoniums. Other names are home, English large-flowered, noble, royal. It differs from other varieties in a more capricious character and demanding care. The royal group of pelargoniums needs to create a winter dormant period at a temperature of 10-14 degrees. The inflorescences are large, the duration of flowering is shorter than in other groups. Most popular varieties: Princess of Wales, Turkish Coffee, 5th Avenue, Christina Beer.
Angels. The second name of the group is violet flowers, since the inflorescences strongly resemble pansies. They are a hybrid of curly and royal pelargonium. It blooms all summer, releasing lush inflorescences hanging down. In size they belong to compact species, reaching a height of about 30 cm. The most common varieties are: PAC Angelys Bicolor, Madame Layal, Black Night.
Ivy Pelargoniums. Ampelous group, forming hanging shoots up to a meter long. Differs in small star-shaped leaves of dark green color, which are similar to ivy leaves. Inflorescences in the form of a brush, flowers can be double, semi-double, simple and similar to roses. The color is varied, ranging from milky white to dark purple, almost black. The most famous varieties are Antique, Bernardo, Crokc-o-day, Ice rose.

Of the most popular types of succulent pelargonium is the angular, fleshy, hunchbacked

Succulent Pelargoniums. This group is notable for thick, highly branched stems, curved in the most bizarre way. They can look like strange fantasy creatures, miniature baobabs and are therefore used for decorative compositions. Among the species, the most popular are pelargonium angular, fleshy, hunchbacked, regular, cortus-leaved, thick-stemmed and fluffy.

Unique. A hybrid of brilliant and royal pelargonium, obtained more than 150 years ago. They have heavily dissected leaves. spicy aroma. The flowers are large, similar to royal ones. A highly decorative species that needs an increased amount of potassium to start flowering. Such varieties as Ashby, Mons Ninon, Mistery gained popularity.
Fragrant pelargoniums. Leaf blades are carved, strongly dissected into 6-7 parts, so they look like terry. This group was named for the strong smell emitted at the slightest touch. Breeders have bred varieties with aromas of strawberries, mint, coconut, lemon, nutmeg, pine needles, roses, lilacs, lemon balm, ginger and camphor. The inflorescences are small, purple or pink. Among the varieties, lovers distinguish Brilliant (with the smell of pineapple), Chocolate mint, Citronella, Ginger (smell of ginger).

Home care

So, you bought a pelargonium and brought it home. Experienced flower growers First of all, carefully examine the plants for diseases and pests. It is recommended to temporarily quarantine the purchase so as not to damage existing flowers in the event that problems are found.

In general, pelargonium at home grows well and pleases us with a long flowering period. However, in order to ensure the most comfortable conditions, we are required to follow some rules for its maintenance.

Do I need to repot the plant after purchase

Light is well suited for peralgonia fertile soil

First of all, we look at the state of the flower. If it is in the flowering stage, you should wait for the end of the process and replant 4-5 days after completion.

If the pelargonium does not bloom, we take a new pot right size, since plants are usually sold in small shipping containers and we transplant a flower into it. We also replace the soil with a new one, because in stores they mainly use a temporary substitute in which the plant will not be able to fully develop.

Light fertile soil is suitable for pelargonium, it is best to mix sand, turf and leaf soil and humus in a ratio of 1: 2: 2: 2. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to lay out a drainage layer of expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles or other coastal pebbles. Pelargonium carefully removed from old container, without washing and not strongly shaking off the roots, and place in new ground. Sprinkle with earth on top, carefully closing root system. At the end of the procedure, water the plant.

Lighting and optimal content temperature

Pelargonium is an unpretentious plant and room temperature in the summer within 18-25® it will suit her perfectly. In winter, pelargonium must be placed in cooler conditions, with an air temperature of 10-12 °.

Watch the video for this plant.

For long, abundant flowering, the plant needs a lot of sunlight. It can be kept on the eastern, western and even southern windows, in the latter case, shading during the daytime. It will withstand shade and partial shade, but will not please with flowers.

Watering and humidity

Watering pelargonium in the summer should be frequent, plentiful and regular. Just pour water out of the pan in a timely manner and prevent it from stagnation. Therefore, a drainage layer is required in the pot. Water for irrigation is used soft non-calcareous cool (18-22®). You can take settled, boiled, rain or thawed.

Maintaining high humidity is not required at all, and spraying and bathing in the shower can harm the plant.

top dressing

Organic fertilizers are strictly prohibited! Especially fresh. Pelargonium can be fed during flowering and active vegetation, using mineral complexes for flowering plants. Fertilization is carried out every 12-14 days. In winter, during the rest period, it is not necessary to feed.

Reproduction at home

Pelargonium propagates in two ways - seeds and cuttings. Both methods are quite easy and do not require much effort. True, pelargonium from seeds can only grow if it belongs to the zonal group. For all other varieties, only propagation by cuttings is suitable.

Reproduction by seeds

Required temperature for seed germination 20-25

To germinate seeds, you need to take a small box and fill it with a substrate. Suitable light soil, peat, sand, perlite, vermiculite, or a mixture thereof. You can use a universal primer sold in stores. Seeds are sown in boxes to a depth of 0.5 cm, trying to arrange them infrequently.

The substrate must be watered and placed in a bright, warm place. The optimum temperature for seed germination is 20-25°. Humidity must be constantly maintained by moistening the soil in a timely manner. Shoots appear depending on the variety after 7-14 days.

After another couple of weeks, the first pair of true leaves appear on the sprouts. At this time, seedlings are seated in small separate pots. Flowering occurs in 3-4 months.

Germination temperature should not exceed 22-23

For this method of reproduction, a healthy mother plant is chosen. It should not be strongly branched, since shoots from such a flower will rot without releasing roots. Ideally, to prepare a donor plant, it is not allowed to bloom, immediately breaking off the resulting flower stalks.

In March, cuttings are prepared by cutting off suitable ones with a sharp tool. Each shoot intended for propagation should have 2-3 internodes, the lower cut is made straight, at an angle of 90°. Petioles are left to lie down for drying for 8-10 hours.

You need to plant the cuttings in a moist substrate (vermiculite, perlite or sand), then cover with a glass jar or half plastic bottle. The germination temperature should not exceed 22-23°, otherwise the cuttings will rot. The humidity of the substrate is maintained constantly. Rooting occurs in 1.5-3 weeks.

Seedlings are planted in individual pots, 12-16 cm in diameter. If everything is done correctly, young plants begin to bloom in the same year.

Cut the stem above the internode, making an oblique cut

This procedure is carried out to obtain more lush flowering, rejuvenate the plant and form beautiful shape bush. The growing shoots should be cut off even before they become too large, that is, it is necessary to monitor the plant during the entire period of active development - from March to October.

The tool is taken sharply sharpened and disinfected. You can use scissors, a straight razor, or a knife. Cut the stem above the internode, making an oblique cut. It is necessary to follow the direction of the shoots. They must grow in different sides and not in the middle, so as not to interfere with each other.

Pinching to form additional side shoots can be done by simply cutting off unnecessary tops with clean fingers.

Possible problems