Rhododendron - planting and care in open ground. Rhododendron: “flower explosion”: cultivation and care in open ground

The homeland of rhododendron is China and Japan; this shrub was also found in North America. The name rhododendron combines a lot of species of creeping and erect shrubs with bright flowers and leaves various shapes and sizes. Today, breeders have developed a wide variety of varieties of shrubs - plants with small flowers and shrubs whose flower sizes reach 20 cm. This shrub is popular all over the world; it is of particular value beautiful flowers, which are collected in brushes or tassels, reminiscent of an ordinary bouquet of flowers, only small. The most common types include:

Daurian rhododendron is an evergreen shrub with large flowers light purple hue. It is characterized by very abundant flowering, and in late autumn it can produce new buds.
Japanese rhododendron is a deciduous shrub about 2 meters high. Characterized by beautiful red flowers that emit an incredible aroma.
Caucasian rhododendron is a low-growing hybrid shrub with creeping shoots. It blooms with small yellow flowers, which are collected in tassels.
Yakushiman rhododendron is a spherical shrub about a meter high. To plant it, you should choose well-lit places. main feature Yakushiman species is that at first its flowers have a bright red tint, and over time they begin to turn white.
Schlippenbach's rhododendron is a leafy shrub with a wide crown. The flowers of this plant are very beautiful, have a light pink tint and are decorated with bright dots.

Leaf shrub "Rhododendron Schlippenbach"

True, professional gardeners advise choosing exclusively winter-hardy varieties for planting - for example, Yakushiman, Daurian or Caucasian rhododendron.

Planting of this plant can be done in spring at the end of April or in autumn in mid-September. In fact, you can do this whenever you want, as long as the work coincides with the growing season. But you can’t plant plants during flowering and for the next 3 weeks after that. Rhododendron prefers acidic, well-drained soil rich in humus.

It is also worth choosing a slightly dark place without stagnant water, otherwise you may cause rotting of the plant roots. The shrub can be planted near pines, oaks, larches - with those trees that have a deep-growing root system. A best neighbors for rhododendron you can call peach, apple or any other fruit trees.

Planting rhododendron bushes

The planting hole should be about 65 cm in diameter and at least 45 cm deep. Before planting a tree seedling, pour a nutrient mixture into the hole, preparing it from 30 liters of clay and 70 liters of high-moor peat. Compact the filled mixture and make a hole in it the size of the rhododendron rhizome. Before planting the shrub, place the plant's roots in water and wait until bubbles begin to appear from the water. After this, you can plant: carefully lower the seedling into the hole, sprinkle it with soil, compact it, removing voids that in the future can lead to rotting of the root system.

When planting a seedling, make sure that the root collar is located slightly above ground level. After planting, water the bushes well to a depth of about 30 cm. Place mulch of peat, pine needles or foliage on top under each path. If flower buds appear on young seedlings after planting, then it is better to cut them off, directing all the forces of the rhododendron to rooting. When planting one shrub, remember the need to protect it from drafts and strong winds, which can break a young seedling. To do this, it should be tied up - the support is removed after a couple of weeks, when the rhododendron takes root.

Caring for the plant is quite simple. Thus, rhodonedron loves frequent watering and spraying, and the water should be either rain or settled for 24 hours. To increase the acidity of the water, you can add about 100 g of peat to it at least a day before watering. And remember that the appearance largely depends on watering flower buds. But as a result of a lack of moisture, the development of the plant may stop. To understand that the plant does not have enough watering, just pay attention to the rhododendron - the leaves of the bush become dull. And on very hot days, the plant should be additionally sprayed.

Also, do not forget about regular weeding in the spring, which will help fight weeds. This is especially important to do in the first few months after planting the plant, since the development of weeds can inhibit the growth of a seedling that has not yet matured.

At the same time, loosening and, especially, digging should not be carried out under any circumstances - the rhododendron’s root system is located very close to the ground and there is a chance of damaging it.

Rhododendron root system

An important point is feeding the bush. It is necessary to add soil additives in the year the seedling is planted. Fertilizers are applied for the first time in early spring, the last time - at the end of July, when the rhodonedron fades and begins to form new shoots.

As a top dressing, you can use liquid and rotted manure, as well as horn flour: dilute a kilogram of manure in 15 liters of water, let it sit for about 4 days, and then feed the bush, watering the soil in advance. You can also use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which will not only give the shrubs all the necessary nutrients, but also will not disturb the acidic structure of the soil. True, it is advisable to add any mineral supplements in low concentrations.

The optimal regimen for using supplements includes:

Application of organic matter and mineral fertilizers that contain nitrogen. Add 50 g of products such as ammonium sulfate and magnesium sulfate per square meter of flower bed.
After the flowering period ends, the bush needs to be fed with the following mixture: 40 g of ammonium sulfate and 20 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. This amount is enough to feed 1 square. m.
The last time the bushes are fed with superphosphate and potassium sulfate - take 20 g of each composition.

The plant needs special care before the onset of cold weather. So, if autumn is too dry, the bush is watered abundantly - about a bucket of water for each plant. In November, the tree trunk circles around the bush need to be insulated using peat. In the northern regions, using spruce branches.

Pruning is done both for preventive purposes and to form a bush. If the bush is young, then you don’t need much pruning, but more mature shrubs need thorough pruning to rejuvenate them. Be sure to remove all dried and damaged shoots. In this case, work is carried out before the beginning of the growing season. Cut shoots about 4 cm thick.

Rhododendron pruning

At the same time, you need to work not only with a sharp, but also with a disinfected instrument in order to prevent infection and bacteria from getting into the wounds. After completing the work, the cut area must be lubricated with garden varnish. After about a month, the renewal process begins and the kidneys awaken.

Also remember that you need to trim off all dried inflorescences after the bush has faded. Then pruning will help the rhododendron direct all its power to the development of flower buds next year, and not to supporting already unnecessary inflorescences.

Diseases and pests of shrubs - how to deal with them?

There are many that can cause serious harm to your shrubs in the garden. These include bedbugs, spider mites, and weevils. And each of them has its own means and ways of fighting. For example, you can only get rid of gastropods by hand, collecting them from bushes in early spring. But after collecting insects, you need to spray the plants with a fungicidal solution (use, for example, Fundazol or Topaz). Against spider mites, it is best to use a remedy such as Diazinon, but to get rid of scale insects or other harmful insects, it is better to use Karbofos.

Rhododendrons can often be attacked by fungal diseases. main reason– poor care and lack of oxygen access to the root system (this is why it is so important to loosen the soil around the bush). It is best to treat such diseases with Bordeaux mixture. A disease such as chlorosis appears as a result of a lack of iron - the leaves of the bush begin to rapidly turn yellow. To compensate for iron deficiency, simply add iron chelate to the water when watering.

As a preventive measure against cancer, you should also use Bordeaux mixture, spraying shrubs in early spring and late autumn. If you notice affected leaves, they should be removed and burned so that the infection does not spread to other shrubs in the garden.

Type: heather
Flowering period: April May June
Height: 0.3-1.5m
Color: white, pink, lilac, red, yellow, violet
perennial
Winters
Shade-loving
Moisture-loving

Hard to imagine suburban area without the usual permanent residents - peonies, roses, poppies, dahlias, decorating flower beds and flower beds with their lush caps throughout the summer. However, sometimes in the dachas of the middle zone and southern regions you can find an unusual beautiful shrub that resembles a rose. This is a rhododendron, a rather capricious heat-loving plant. Finding an approach to it is not easy, but growing and caring for rhododendrons over time for some lovers of rare plants develops into a hobby - these magnificent flowers are so beautiful and exquisite.

Like most lush flowering crops, rhododendron is rarely found in the Russian wild, and grows exclusively under the supervision of gardeners.

Many species take root and feel great only in southern latitudes, so they can be safely grown in the Crimea, Krasnodar Territory or Stavropol Territory. However, some varieties, for example, Daursky or Canadian, develop well in temperate climates, so if you live in the Moscow region, the Urals, or even in the Siberian outback, rhododendron can also decorate your summer cottage with its magnificent blooms.

Literally translated from Latin, “rhododendron” means “rose tree” - and indeed, in its appearance the plant is very similar to a rose, although it belongs not to the Rosaceae, but to the heathers

You are certainly familiar with one of the types of rhododendron - this is the well-known indoor azalea, often decorating the window sills of city apartments. It is distinguished by lush flowering and a variety of shades.

It is impossible to imagine how the relatives of this small plant can reach 25-30 meters in height, although in fact in the Himalayas, Japan, and North America some species grow to such gigantic sizes.

There are also low rhododendrons, which are individual bushes or creeping shrubs that feel comfortable at the foot of mountains and in coastal sea areas.

Mountain varieties are different small in size and are ideal for organizing alpine slides. For example, the Kamchatka rhododendron is unpretentious, grows only 35-40 cm in height and has a bright pink hue.

Among annuals and perennials (there are about 3 thousand species in total), you can choose a variety whose characteristics are suitable for growing in a particular region.

If you need a special shade - reddish, purple, white or yellow - this will also not be a problem, since the color palette of crops is almost limitless. The flowering of the crop begins in early spring and continues throughout the warm period.

Thanks to its luxurious color palette, garden azalea can be combined with various types flowering crops and used for growing in columbariums, rock gardens, multi-tiered flower beds

Planting rhododendrons: time, soil, lighting

Following general recommendations, planting can be done both in autumn and spring, that is, in a growing season convenient for you, excluding flowering time and a short period after flowering - about 10 days. However experienced gardeners they still insist on spring planting, which lasts, depending on the region, from April to May 10-15.

Varieties planted earlier than this period are already covered in thick color by the May holidays - against the backdrop of barely emerging foliage and fresh herbal greenery, they look very impressive.

One of the early flowering rhododendrons is the variety P.J. Mezitt lush plant with pink-lilac buds. The beginning of its flowering occurs in the last ten days of April - the first days of May

It is important to choose the right planting location, since in bright sun the plant will feel uncomfortable, and in a completely dark place it will not produce lush flowering.

It is best to place a flower bed with rhododendrons on the north side of the building, in a semi-shaded area, so that at noon, when the sun's rays reach their maximum strength, the plant is completely protected from them.

Not only the walls of a building, but also a fence or tall trees can serve as a shade barrier for a flower garden. Rhododendron gets along well with trees whose roots go deep into the soil and do not interfere with the development of the plant - oaks, larches, spruce trees, as well as fruit trees - pears or apple trees

Flowers absolutely cannot tolerate alkaline or neutral soil - it must be acidic, rich in humus, well aerated, without lime impurities. One of the best materials for cultivation is a mixture of peat and clay.

Rhododendron is planted in the following order:

dig holes that are shallow (35-40 cm) and wide enough (55-60 cm);
the lower part is drained with a sand and pebble layer (10-15 cm);
they are covered with a mixture of loam and peat (high moss or sphagnum, with low acidity), and there should be about 2 times more peat;
lightly compact the soil inside the hole and make a hole in it the size of an earthen ball of a seedling;
lower the roots of the seedling into the hole and fill it with soil mixture up to the root collar, which as a result should be flush with the soil surface;
water the plant abundantly if the soil is dry;
mulching is carried out (to a depth of 5-7 cm), for which peat, moss, rotted pine needles, leaves and crushed oak bark are suitable.

In order for the plant to take root better in a new place, before planting, thoroughly soak the roots with water - lower the seedlings into a container of water until air bubbles stop appearing on the surface.

Approximate rhododendron planting scheme: 1 – garden soil; 2 – drainage; 3 – soil mixture of peat, clay or loam; 4 – layer of pine needles

There is another trick that promotes better development of the root system. Cut off the most luxuriant buds of a flowering plant - this way the seedling will spend more energy on rooting. Landing and further care for rhododendrons - important steps, following which, you will achieve amazing results.

It is better to start decorating the planted bush in a couple of weeks - after it is completely rooted. You can give the plant a certain shape and decorate the base depending on the style of landscape design of your site

Nuances of flower care

Norms proper care Caring for flowering shrubs does not differ from generally accepted standards: it is necessary to follow the watering regime, carry out weeding and pruning in a timely manner, feed the plant with suitable minerals and ensure that pests do not infest.

There are also subtleties, for example, a careful approach when loosening. The roots of the plant are very close to the surface, so you need to loosen the soil very carefully, and you should not dig at all. When removing weeds, never use a hoe or garden knife; you can only do it manually.

Irrigation mode and features

Rhododendron's relationship with moisture is very interesting. On the one hand, it absolutely cannot tolerate waterlogging, on the other hand, it requires constant spraying and watering with specially prepared water.

Even when choosing a place for planting, check whether groundwater is close to the surface. The fact is that with a large amount of moisture in the soil, the roots will simply “choke” and the plant will die. That is why a drainage layer is needed to drain excess water.

It is especially important to follow the watering and atmospheric irrigation regime during the development of buds and flowering - the better the watering, the brighter and more magnificent the inflorescences will be

Watering is carried out regularly, after acidifying the water - for this, 2-3 handfuls of sphagnum peat are placed in a container with water 12-20 hours before watering. It is better not to use tap water; in extreme cases, it must be allowed to stand. The ideal option is rain collections. The regularity of watering depends on the condition of the plant: as soon as the leaves have lost their glossy shine and changed turgor, it’s time to water.

When is the best time to prune a plant?

The concept of pruning is very conditional. Usually the plant develops evenly and forms a profusely flowering bush of regular shape, so lovers of lush flower beds do not need to prune. But sometimes it is necessary to thin out the bush, make it a little lower, or simply rejuvenate it.

Pruning is carried out in early spring, before sap flow begins. Select strong, thick branches with a diameter of 3-4 cm, carefully cut off the ends with garden shears and treat the cuts with a specially prepared garden varnish or resin. In about a month, the renewal process will begin, continuing throughout the year - new shoots will hatch and dormant buds will begin to develop.

Particular skill is required when pruning frozen or old bushes: thick branches should be cut at a distance of 35-40 cm from the ground alternately for 2 years: part this year, the second next year

Rhododendrons are characterized by uneven flowering. If this year they pleased you with a particularly wild color, expect more modest results next year. To prevent this from happening, remove faded buds immediately after flowering, and then the plant will have enough strength to gain as many buds as possible in the second year.

Protection from pests and diseases

Branched bushes with dense foliage and many buds are an excellent habitat for insects, half of which can destroy the beauty you have grown within a couple of weeks, so a number of measures must be taken to protect the bush.

Thick trunks and branches are a favorite place for mollusks. Slugs and snails are collected by hand. Beware of scale insects, bedbugs, spider mites, rhododendron flies, and mealyworms. Treat stems and branches with 8% fungicide "Tiram", "Karbofos" helps well.

It is more difficult to remove bedbugs, ticks, and especially weevils, to get rid of which diazonin is used. Remember, in order to say goodbye to a harmful guest forever, it is necessary to treat not only the plant itself, but also upper layer soil around it

Along with insect pests, rhododendrons are threatened by fungal diseases - rust, chlorosis, spotting. The reason lies in insufficient aeration and non-compliance with the watering regime. Yellowness resulting from chlorosis is treated with an iron chelate solution. If rot appears, the affected shoots should be cut off completely. For prevention, seasonal treatment with Bordeaux mixture is carried out in late autumn or early April.

Feeding and choice of fertilizers

It is necessary to start feeding rhododendrons from planting and throughout the entire flowering period. To preserve the acidic environment important for the culture, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, magnesium or calcium sulfate, and ammonium are used, but in minimal concentrations.

Early spring feeding consists of fertilizers containing nitrogen (40-50 g of magnesium or ammonium sulfate per 1 cubic meter of liquid); it is also relevant in the period after flowering. In July, the dose of fertilizer should be reduced to 20 g.

The ideal fertilizer for rhododendrons is a liquid solution. natural fertilizers, such as horn meal or cow dung. Rotted manure is diluted with water (1 part fertilizer to 15 parts water), left for 3-4 days and used during irrigation.

1-2 years after planting, it is necessary to update the top layer of soil. To do this, mix peat in equal parts with humus or compost and sprinkle the area around the roots. Along with natural ingredients, superphosphate, potassium sulfate or ammonium are added to the bedding (dry substances - 1 tablespoon each). Agricola can be used as a dry powder for flowering garden plants. Remember that only thoroughly watered bushes need to be fertilized.

Reproduction methods - which one to choose

Let's look at three of the most successful ways propagation of rhododendron in garden conditions:

seeds;
cuttings;
layering.

Growing plants from seeds is a long and labor-intensive task. Dry, healthy seeds are sown in pots or boxes with moist peat, a little sand is added, covered with glass caps and placed in a well-lit place. Within a month, it is necessary to moisten the soil and remove condensation from the glass.

The seedlings that appear after 4 weeks are planted in a greenhouse with a cool climate according to a 2 x 3 cm pattern. The seedlings will grow for a very long time, and only after 6-7 years you will see the first flowering

Not all gardeners can tolerate propagation by cuttings either. It is necessary to take shoots that are half woody and cut several cuttings about 7-8 cm long from them.

The leaves are removed from the bottom, and the treated end is placed in a container with heteroauxin, a growth stimulator, where it is kept for 12-15 hours.

Then they are placed in peat soil and covered, as is the case with seeds. Depending on the variety, the cuttings will take root in 2-4 months, after which they are transplanted into boxes with peat-coniferous soil and taken out to a cool greenhouse. The optimal temperature is 10ºС. They are planted in the spring along with other flowers, right in boxes, and only after a couple of years can they be transplanted to the main place of growth.

Most convenient option reproduction - pinning layering. They take a flexible lower shoot, dig a groove 12-15 cm deep near it, and place the shoot in this groove.

To prevent it from rising, the middle part of the stem is pinned and peat is sprinkled on top. The upper part must be brought out and tied to a support - a wooden peg stuck into the ground

The cuttings are cared for in the same way as the entire bush - watered and sprayed. When it takes root (late autumn or spring), it is carefully separated, dug up and transplanted to a place of permanent growth. This method is especially good for propagating deciduous rhododendrons.

The most popular garden varieties

A 2-3-meter Daurian rhododendron will get along well in a coniferous garden. It is distinguished by abundant flowering buds reaching a diameter of 4 cm.

If the warm season drags on, then the Daursky variety will definitely please you again. autumn bloom, and next spring the winter-hardy plant will bloom as usual

Adams' rhododendron is an eastern guest, accustomed to rocky mountain soils.

A beautiful plant with soft pink flowers grows up to one and a half meters in height. It is rare in our country, but in Buryatia it is listed in the Red Book

The low creeping Caucasian rhododendron is a real find for rock gardens.

The petals of the Caucasian rhododendron inflorescences are distinguished by an unusual soft yellow or cream shade, which will wonderfully dilute the more saturated, rich colors other varieties

Japanese rhododendron is a magnificent deciduous variety with flamingo-colored buds.

Japanese rhododendrons with delightful flowers and picturesque, blushing autumn period foliage is unpretentious, winter-hardy and reproduces well in any way - an excellent option for growing in central Russia

And finally, a short video about how to achieve lush flowering of rhododendrons.

We tell you how to properly transplant and plant rhododendron in open ground. We describe favorable planting conditions: location, soil, acidity, and give step-by-step instructions.

Proper planting of rhododendron: place, soil

The further growth and development of the plant depends on the correct choice of planting site, soil and preparation of the soil substrate. It is advisable to decide on a place before purchasing a seedling so that it immediately gets into comfortable conditions and took root faster.

Which landing site should I choose?

When choosing a site, it is important to take into account the biological characteristics of the species. Ideally, lighting, air and soil humidity should correspond as closely as possible to the place where it grows in nature. Overall than bigger size leaves, the less wind required and the higher the air humidity.

A favorable place is light partial shade from tall trees. At the same time, the “rose tree” needs to be provided with shade at peak solar activity- from 11.00 to 16.00, and in the morning and evening it should receive a sufficient amount of light.

Scattered shadow is Better conditions for the development of all plant species, especially where there is a sharply continental climate with cold winter, hot summers and low air humidity.

It is better to plant on the north or east side, since rhododendron is shade-tolerant and tolerates shade more easily than bright sunlight.

At the same time, some deciduous species (Daurian, yellow, Kamchatka, Canadian or Japanese) can be planted in an open sunny place. However, they will grow better and bloom more beautifully in a shady area with diffused light.

A bad place is an area exposed to strong winds and midday sun. In this case, there are often problems with flowering, development and wintering.

It is not recommended to plant in areas with high level groundwater, as well as those flooded in the spring with melt water. As a last resort, you can plant it on a high ridge (10-15 cm), make good drainage and drainage ditches.

If for some reason you planted a rhododendron in an unfavorable place, then it can be replanted. The shrub tolerates replanting well; it often has a positive effect on it. Therefore, you always have a second attempt in stock.

Choice of neighbors and landing distance

When choosing a planting site, take into account the plants surrounding the “pink tree”. Since the flower has a superficial root system, its “neighbors” have a tap root system so that it has enough nutrients.

The best neighbors: spruce, larch and pine - just like in nature.

Good neighbors: pear, oak, pine, apple, cherry.

Bad neighbors: elm, birch, willow, chestnut, maple, linden.

Minimum distance to large shrubs and trees: 2-3 meters, from a building up to 7 years (then almost no lime is released from the solution) - 1.5 meters. When planted in a row - 130-180 cm.

Soil and acidity

The optimal soil acidity for rhododendron is pH: 3.0-4.5, it loves acidic soils. Therefore, peat soil is excellent. The soil should be rich in humus, with high air and moisture permeability (loose).

Large-flowered species are more sensitive to soil acidity; even a neutral environment inhibits their development.

Soil mixture for planting

Main components: heather soil, acidic high peat, deciduous soil (humus) and pine needles. They don’t all have to be present, the main thing is to roughly maintain the proportion: 50/50 organic part and garden soil from digging the hole.

In light and medium loam and ordinary garden soil, it is better to increase the proportion of peat and add pine needles. IN sandy soil increase the proportion of loam, peat and humus.

High peat, garden soil (loam or turf soil) and sand 3:2:1. A simple mixture that has been tested over the years and by thousands of gardeners.
High-moor peat, leaf soil and coniferous litter, sand – 3:2:1:1.

Any soil mixture must be supplemented with complex mineral fertilizer - 30-40 g.

Rules and tips

Loam or garden soil should make up 35-50% of the volume of any soil mixture. So that the substrate is sufficiently loose and permeable to moisture, and also better retains moisture near the roots.
When planting in a soil mixture with a large amount of peat without loam, the water quickly evaporates and after the root ball dries, it is difficult to moisten it due to the air cushion.
Typically, 4-6 standard buckets of high-moor peat and 3-4 buckets of loam are required to prepare the soil mixture. But if you are missing any component, then it is better to do landing hole smaller size (30*40 cm), then reduce the amount of peat or loam.
And after 2-3 years, dig a ditch 10-15 cm wide/30-35 cm deep around the perimeter of the planting hole and fill it with soil mixture.
Do not add leaves, manure (in any form), bottom peat, sawdust and black soil to the soil mixture.

Instructions for planting rhododendron

Rules and tips

It is better to dig the planting hole and fill it with soil mixture in advance. If you plant in the spring, then in the fall, and if in the fall, then 2-3 months before planting.
It is better to plant rhododendron in cloudy and damp weather.
When planting a seedling in a container, you need to carefully trim the outer roots (“felt”), which have died due to prolonged contact with the walls of the container. Otherwise, it will be difficult for young roots to break through their layer to the soil.
You can make 3-4 cuts across the root ball, and then straighten the roots down and to the sides. There is no need to completely destroy the lump! At the same time, many gardeners note that there is no difference, and you can plant a whole clump from a container without manipulation.
It is better to plant 2-3 year old seedlings in a quiet and shady place so that they do not suffer from moisture deficiency. The width of the hole is 30 cm, and the depth is 20-25 cm. In the 4-6th year, transplant the bush to a permanent place according to the basic instructions. This method It is especially important to use if the permanent place is located in a windy and sunny area of the garden.
If a bush being planted in a permanent place has buds, then it is better to remove them (except for 2-3 pieces to evaluate the beauty) so that it takes root better.

Caring for rhododendron after planting

In the first year after planting or transplanting, the seedling needs regular watering. It is especially important to water and spray frequently in hot weather from April to August, because the seedling has a small root ball and dries out quickly.

Every 2-3 days, water with 4-6 liters of water, and it is advisable to spray every day.

There is no urgent need for fertilizing; timely watering is much more important, but it is advisable to apply complex mineral fertilizer after rooting (15-20 days after planting). Apply 30% of the recommended dose for an adult plant.

The compositions of fertilizers are given in the article on plant care - see the bottom of the page.

In the fall, be sure to mulch and cover for the winter with spruce branches or covering material (lutrasil, agrofibre). Drive stakes around the perimeter of the bush and wrap around them.

When is the best time to plant rhododendron? Spring or autumn?

Experts believe that it is optimal to plant the “pink tree” in spring (April - mid-May) and autumn (September - mid-November). At the same time, there is a categorical ban on planting and replanting only for the flowering period and two weeks after it.

In the Moscow region, Siberia, the Middle Belt, Leningrad region and the Urals (cold winters), it is better to plant rhododendron in the spring so that the plant adapts by autumn and overwinters more successfully.

Deciduous species are also best planted in the spring before flowering and leaves bloom, since “autumn” seedlings more often die in the first winter.

Transplanting rhododendron in spring and autumn

The plant tolerates transplantation well. The main reason for it is the annual unsatisfactory condition of the bush: absence or weak flowering, poor wintering (severe freezing).

Often the reason lies in an unsuccessful planting location and with the help of a transplant it is easy to breathe a “second life” into the rhododendron. Since transplanting to a new, more suitable place gives it strength to grow and bloom.

Transplanting rhododendrons: timing

It is better to replant the “rose tree” in early spring (late March - early April) or late summer and early autumn (mid-August - October). When the weather is cool and high humidity air.

In general, the main thing is that the soil can be dug, it is not very wet (liquid mud) and the bush does not bloom.

Some gardeners prefer to transplant two weeks after flowering (June).

Instructions for transplanting rhododendron

If the soil is dry, then water the small bush generously so that the lump of earth does not crumble. old bush It’s better not to water it, as it will be difficult to take out and carry.
Mark the branches of the plant according to the cardinal directions: north - south or west - east, so that later you can position the bush correctly in a new place. A similar orientation to the sun will help the plant quickly settle down and take root.
Start digging the soil with a pitchfork. Since the root system grows wider than deep and is located close to the surface (20-30 cm), dig carefully.
Depending on the age (height) of the specimen, make the necessary indentation from the base of the bush: 4-5 year old bush - 50-60 cm, old bushes - 80-100 cm.
We give approximate figures with a small margin, since to prevent damage to the root system, it is better to retreat more than less.
Carefully remove the bush with a lump of earth. Assess the root system; if there are old or rotten roots, cut them off, sprinkle the sections with charcoal powder and preferably treat them with a fungicide.
Then transfer (transport in a wheelbarrow) the bush to a previously prepared planting hole. Next, replant the rhododendron with a clod of soil according to the planting instructions.

Adviсe

There is an opinion that to obtain a more symmetrical shape of the bush, you need to plant the less developed side facing the sun - to the south. We do not recommend changing the orientation of the flower - this will create unnecessary stress and complicate adaptation.

Gardeners often successfully transplant even mature plants (10-12 years old), 70-80 cm high and with a crown diameter of more than 100 cm. For example, the Japanese species.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish you successful planting and transplantation, let the “pink tree” grow beautiful and healthy!

Highly decorative shrubs, abundantly planted with lush inflorescences, are widely used in the design of landscape areas and landscaping of garden and park areas in many countries around the world. But you can grow shrubs yourself, in your garden. It is enough to know the features of planting, care and propagation of this unusual crop for our latitudes. And in order for the shrub to easily withstand harsh snowy winters, it is important to choose the appropriate winter-hardy variety of rhododendron. All the nuances of agricultural technology for growing this exotic crop and practical recommendations gardeners - read this article. A selection of photos and video lessons will complement general idea about the process of growing rhododendron in open ground.

Rhododendron, botanical description

Rhododendron is a typical representative of the Heather family, which unites various types of shrubs, trees and even indoor plants.
Garden rhododendron is represented by both low-growing varieties, the bushes of which literally creep along the ground, and giant lush shrubs, reaching a height of 3-7 m.

Both evergreen and deciduous varieties of tree rhododendrons are grown in cultivation.
This shrub genus is distributed in temperate latitudes of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The growing area in Russia varies depending on the type of plant: from the warm Crimea to harsh Siberia and the Far East.
Under natural conditions, rhododendrons can grow as single crops or as entire bush thickets. They are found near forests, swamps, on mountain slopes, in the tundra and forest-steppes.
The plant received its interesting name due to its spectacular appearance during the flowering period. Rhododendron, translated from Greek language, means “rose - tree”. The flowering shrub is densely covered with large flowers reminiscent of roses.

Flowers Rhododendron flowers are collected in lush inflorescences of a raceme or corymb, with corollas of yellow, pink, purple and red shades. The size of an individual flower can be from 5 to 25 cm in diameter, the shape resembles a disproportionate bell with long and graceful stamens. Due to the combination of flowers into dense inflorescences, the branch looks like a real bouquet. Flowering begins in early spring and continues, in some species, until the cold weather. The fruit is presented in a multi-seeded capsule.
Escapes can be smooth or pubescent. But the leaves of rhododendrons are very diverse. Depending on the species or variety, they can be perennial or annual, with or without a petiole, ovoid or elongated.
Root system in culture - fibrous, compact, located close to the surface of the earth. This property is important to consider when caring for rhododendrons.

Rhododendron, varieties and species diversity

The species diversity of rhododendrons can be divided into 3 groups:

Evergreens

Such shrubs do not shed their leaves, even in winter. The leaves are usually dark green in color, and the flowers are large, different shades. They prefer light partial shade and well-drained, peat-rich soil.

Semi-deciduous

An intermediate group of plants, represented by low shrubs that winter well under snow cover. Most of the leaves fall off during this period, leaving whorls only at the tips of the branches.

Deciduous

Shrubs, common to the central part of the country, shed their leaves during the onset of cold weather. The plant is perfectly adapted to winter climate.

The huge variety of rhododendron species allows you to choose a specific variety that is most adapted to certain climate conditions and growing environment. Let's look at the most famous of them.

Rhododendron Daurian

An evergreen woody shrub, with upward-pointing branches, reaches a height of 2-4 m. The leaves are small, with a glossy surface. Flowers - large sizes(4 cm in diameter) and purple-violet shades. This species blooms profusely for 3-4 weeks. It is also possible to bloom again in the fall. The species is easily propagated by cuttings and has high winter hardiness.

Adams rhododendron

Winter-hardy, evergreen and low-growing shrub characterized by widely spreading branches. The matte green leaves have an elongated oval shape. The flowers are small, but due to the lush inflorescences, collected in 10-15 pieces, they look very beautiful and impressive.

Japanese rhododendron

The birthplace of the species is Japan. Deciduous branched shrub, reaching no more than 2 meters in height. The leaves of rhododendron are green, slightly pubescent; in autumn they take on colorful orange hues. Large (up to 8 cm in diameter) bell-shaped flowers have a pleasant aroma. The color scheme of the inflorescences is carmine-red. Japanese rhododendron is one of the most attractive and magnificent representatives of this genus.

Caucasian rhododendron

Originally from the Caucasus, the species is an evergreen, low shrub, with branches creeping along the ground. The leaves are dark green, oblong in shape. The flowers are bell-shaped and fragrant, of different colors, depending on the variety. These can be pink, yellow or purple-white corollas. And various colored inclusions (green, red) allow the flowers to look very original and unusual.

Rhododendron pink

Deciduous ornamental shrub, reaching a height of 1.5 to 3 m. At home (in North America) it can grow up to 5 m. The shape of the bush is compact, with erect branches. Blooms profusely in May with bright pink fragrant inflorescences.

Rhododendron hybrid

It is a large group of rhododendron hybrids. The most popular cultivated varieties of this type of hybrids are:

variety "Alfred"

An evergreen and compact shrub 1-2 m tall, with large (up to 6 cm) flowers collected in dense and fluffy inflorescences. Corollas - Pink colour, with light green splashes.

variety "Blue Peter"

A medium-sized shrub (1.5-2 m), with a widely spreading crown, distinguished by the color of its corollas, which is unusual for the species. The delicate blue shade of the ruffled flower, with a bright pink spot on the upper petal, attracts attention with its beauty and expressiveness.

variety "Rose Marie"

The shrub reaches a height of no more than 1.5 m, and the circumference of the crown is approximately the same. The leaves are oblong, with a waxy coating. Flowers of delicate pink shades are collected in inflorescences of 10-15 pieces.

Winter-hardy varieties of rhododendron

It is a mistake to consider rhododendrons to be a heat-loving exotic crop that is unable to grow in cold climates. Currently, a lot of frost-resistant varieties of rhododendrons have been developed that are perfectly adapted to cold and harsh winters. Many of them are able to winter without additional shelter and withstand very low temperatures (down to -30 ° C).

"Grandiflorum" (compact bush with purple inflorescences),
"Nova Zembla" (distinguished by its bright, ruby-colored inflorescences),
"Caractacus" (medium-sized bush with burgundy-pink corrugated inflorescences),
"Album Novum" (spherical bush with soft pink flowers),
“Elite” (spreading bush with inflorescences, contrasting shades, can withstand -35°C),
"Hague" (small shrub, with corollas, pink color),
“Helsinki University” (named after the University of Helsinki, withstands -40°C),
"Daughter of Pohjola" (spreading, low-growing bush with purple flowers).

Where to buy rhododendron

To purchase a specific variety of rhododendron, it is best to contact specialized nurseries (for example, the Botanical Garden) or stores. It is there that you can get high-quality and necessary planting material. Besides, experienced flower growers willingly share the secrets and features of growing this crop.
If you purchase rhododendron seedlings on spontaneous markets, there are risks of purchasing the wrong variety or one not adapted to cold climatic conditions.

Rhododendron propagation

You can grow a crop on your own site, knowing how to reproduce it. Rhododendron, like most shrubs, reproduces using seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting and dividing the bush.

Which method is the most effective and easiest to implement?

Seed method of propagation of rhododendron

Propagating a crop using seeds is a long and not easy task. Usually, this method practiced by breeders to develop new varieties. Amateur flower growers will also be able to grow rhododendron from seeds, following a certain technology.

In early spring, the seeds are sown in containers with a fertile peat-earth mixture (with the addition of sand), covered with glass and placed in a lighted place.
Sowing is carried out superficially, without planting the seeds deep into the soil.
Seeds can be soaked in water in advance and kept for a day, which will ensure a higher percentage of germination.
The soil in the container must be constantly moist. It is better to spray water to avoid stagnation of moisture or waterlogging of the soil.
Overdrying, as well as waterlogging of the soil, can lead to the death of seedlings.
Planted in a container and covered with glass or film, the seeds are regularly (daily) ventilated. During ventilation, you need to wipe the glass to remove any condensation that appears.
The container should be illuminated for at least 12 hours a day. If daylight is not enough, fluorescent lamps are used.
The first shoots appear after 2.5-3 weeks. After just a month, the grown seedlings can be planted (while diving) into separate pots. At the same time, lower the temperature in the room to 10-12°C.
In summer, it is better to take the pots outside, placing them in partial shade.

Seedlings are planted in open ground only next spring.
Rhododendron grown from seeds will bloom in about 4-5 years.

Propagation of rhododendron by cuttings

Prepare cuttings by cutting semi-lignified shoots (preferably apical ones), about 8-10 cm long. The lower cut is made oblique.

Cutting off lower leaves from shoots, it is recommended to keep the cuttings in a root growth stimulator solution for about 12-15 hours.
Place the cuttings in a soil-peat mixture (as when sowing seeds) at an angle of about 30º, compact the soil and cover with glass or plastic cans. Maintain the temperature in the room around 20-25ºС.
After their initial rooting (from 2 to 5 months, depending on the variety), plant the cuttings in separate containers for growing and hardening, reducing the room temperature to 10ºC.
In the spring, plant the cuttings in the soil along with the container and grow them in this way for several more years.
Rooted developing cuttings, after 2-3 years, are planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of rhododendron by layering

This type of propagation is recognized by gardeners as the most convenient and simplest, especially for deciduous representatives of rhododendron.

To “pin” the shoots to the ground, in the spring, select the lowest branch of the bush, dig a small groove under it (up to 15 cm deep) and place the selected shoot there.
For better rooting, the cuttings are pinned in the middle with a metal bracket (rigid wire), and the groove with the cutting is sprinkled with earth on top. The top of the shoot is not sprinkled, but tied to a wooden peg.

Layers are provided with regular watering, constantly maintaining a humid microclimate.
When in the fall or spring, the cuttings have completely taken root, you can separate them from the mother bush and plant them in a new place.
When leaving the cuttings to overwinter, it is better to provide them with shelter using dry leaves or spruce branches.

In addition to the methods described, rhododendron propagation is also practiced by dividing the bush along with part of the root system. The division procedure can be carried out in early spring or autumn.

Reproduction through grafting is a complex process that requires certain skill and experience. Used for slow-growing rhododendron species.

Rhododendron, planting features

Boarding time

The plant can be planted in spring and autumn, with the exception of the flowering period and 10-15 days after it.
Most often, gardeners plant rhododendron in the spring (to avoid freezing of the seedlings).

Landing location

Preference should be given to a semi-shaded, windless place, preferably on the north side of the garden.
The shrub does not really like direct intense sunlight or too shaded places.
You should not plant the crop in places where there is stagnant moisture.
It is also important to pay attention to the “neighbors” of the rhododendron: trees and shrubs with a shallow root system will become competitors on the site, which can affect the lack of moisture and nutrients.

The soil

The soil should be acidic, loose, fertile and drained.
Rhododendrons do not tolerate alkaline or neutral environments.
Heavy clay substrates inhibit plant growth. But the presence of peat in the soil will ensure optimal development of the bush.

Agricultural planting technology

Given the superficial location of the numerous rhododendron roots, it is necessary to dig a shallow (about 40 cm) but wide (up to 60 cm) hole.
The hole should be twice the actual size of the seedling.

At the bottom of the hole, pour a drainage layer (15-20 cm) of pebbles, crushed stone or pieces of slate, then sprinkle with a mixture of loam and peat (1:2).
Having compacted the soil mixture, the seedling is placed vertically in the hole. Fill it with soil up to the root collar and compact the soil.

It is important to place the root collar at the level of the soil surface! Otherwise, the plant will wither and may die!

When planting in poor soil, add organic and mineral fertilizers.
Water the planted seedling generously with water.
Additional mulching (5-7 cm) of the tree trunk circle will ensure moisture retention. Foliage, moss, pine needles or peat are used as mulch.
In the case of planting rhododendron with buds or inflorescences, it is better to remove them, directing all the efforts of the plant to the successful rooting of the shrub.
When planting a crop in groups, leave a gap between the shrubs, depending on the future size of the species (from 0.5 to 2 m) and the intended purpose of the crop. For example, if growing rhododendron involves “ hedge", they are planted much more often (30-40 cm).
In the first days after planting, the shrub should be protected from direct sunlight and sprayed with water more often.

The shallow root system of rhododendron makes it easy to replant young shrubs without damaging the roots and quickly taking root in a new place.

Rhododendron, plant care rules

When growing rhododendrons in your garden, you need to know how to properly care for the plant so that it will delight you with its lush flowering and beauty for as long as possible.

Watering

Rhododendron is a moisture-loving plant, but at the same time it does not tolerate excessive waterlogging. Although the lack of moisture has a detrimental effect on the crop.
The need for watering is visually noticeable in the condition of the leaves of the bush: if they have become less shiny, yellowed and wither, the rhododendron needs watering. In addition, lack of moisture significantly shortens the flowering period of rhododendron.

Watering with acidified soft and settled water has a beneficial effect on the bush. To prepare such water, you need to add several handfuls of high-moor peat to the water a day before watering.
In the case of a dry summer and autumn, additional winter watering is carried out in late autumn, before the onset of frost.

Loosening and mulching

Considering the shallow location of the roots of rhododendrons, it is necessary to very carefully weed out weeds and loosen the soil near the bush.
Deep loosening or digging up the area can damage the roots, after which it will be difficult for the plant to recover.
To retain moisture, the soil around the trunk should be mulched. Materials that increase soil acidity are used as mulch.

Feeding and fertilizing

Fertilizers that preserve the acidic soil environment are suitable for rhododendron: superphosphate, potassium nitrate and sulfate, magnesium sulfate, ammonium or calcium.
Fertilizers are applied in low concentrations in liquid form.
For organic fertilizers, use an aqueous solution (1:15) of half-rotted cow dung. The solution is infused for several days. Pig and horse manure reduce the acidity of the soil, so their use is not recommended.
Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, from early spring until the end of the growing season (in August).

Trimming

If the rhododendron bush is uniform and regular in shape, it does not need pruning.
If the bush is too thick and overgrown, there are protruding, dry, damaged branches - they are pruned in early spring. Thick sections (2-4 cm) are treated with garden varnish or paint to avoid infection.
Gardeners recommend pruning faded buds to ensure the same abundant flowering next season.

Shelter for the winter

Most rhododendron varieties grown in cold and harsh winters require winter shelter. Young seedlings must be prepared for wintering.

Cover the bush in late autumn by wrapping it with roofing felt, burlap or film. Covering with spruce branches or foliage (in the case of low-growing rhododendron) is also practiced.
In the spring, remove the shelter when the weather is consistently warm (+10 C).

Pest and disease control

Slugs or snails can settle on the bush, which are simply collected by hand.
If the plant is infested with bugs, scale insects, spider mites, mealyworms or rhododendron flies, you cannot do without treating it with a special fungicide. In such cases, “Tiram”, “Karbofos”, “TMTD”, “Diazin” are used.
If rhododendron is affected by fungal diseases (rust, spotting, chlorosis), you should pay attention to the watering regime and ensuring aeration of the plant roots. Chlorosis is destroyed using iron chelate, rotten branches are completely removed, and for the purpose of prevention and treatment, the entire bush is treated with Bordeaux mixture in spring or autumn.

Applications of rhododendron

The main purpose of the shrub is decorative. Therefore, landscape designers have long been attracted to this unusually beautiful plant and use it to decorate and landscape gardens, parks, and adjacent areas.

Shrubs look impressive both in single plantings (as the central accent of the composition) and in groups (creating a hedge or flower frame). A successful combination for a blooming rhododendron any undersized plants will become conifers, ferns, heather.

Some varieties of rhododendron, due to their medicinal properties, are used in folk medicine. Medicinal substances contained in the plant: arbutin, andromedotoxin, rhododendrin, ascorbic acid have sedative, analgesic, antipyretic and bactericidal effects. Considering that many varieties of rhododendron are poisonous, the plant should never be used without consulting a doctor.

The main advantages of the plant are long-lasting and decorative flowering. The richness of colors of lush inflorescences abundantly located on the bush impresses with its sophistication and beauty. By following the simple requirements for caring for rhododendron, you can grow this wonderful plant on your own site.

Rhododendron, photo

Video: “Garden rhododendron: planting and care” part 1

Video: “Garden rhododendron: planting and care” part 2

Instructions for planting and caring for rhododendrons

If there is no opportunity or desire to plant a rhododendron correctly, then it is better to refuse to purchase it altogether, to adapt to your soil as it is, or to humus manure, it will not, you will waste your money and ruin the plant.

Rhododendron planting site

Almost all rhododendrons thrive in places protected from prevailing winds and from the burning rays of the midday sun. (Approximately from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.) The northern or northeastern side of the house or fence is most suitable. When planting near buildings, you need to take into account that the bushes do not fall into the zone of falling icicles and snow sliding off the roof.

You cannot choose a planting site near trees with a superficial root system, especially near spruce and linden (also bad neighbors: birch, aspen, maple, elm, chestnut) because these trees will take away moisture and nutrients from rhododendrons, dooming them to miserable existence and even death. Ideal for planting with trees that have a deep tap root system (pine, oak). It is quite acceptable to land with fruit trees(apple, pear, cherry, plum) but to provide rhododendrons sufficient quantity light and precipitation, they should be planted along the periphery of the crown (also on the north or northeast side).

What should someone who has open, ventilated areas do? Let's look at everything in detail. All rhododendrons lay flower buds at the ends of the shoots in August and, accordingly, overwinter with them. Already from mid-February, the sun heats up quite intensely and the rather large buds of some rhododendrons, heating up, begin to evaporate moisture. If February-March is sunny, then by the time the roots are activated (April), the buds are irrevocably dehydrated. The same thing happens in years when the ground freezes. As a result, flowering is observed only on branches on the north side of the bush and branches that were under the snow. In evergreen rhododendrons, in addition to the flower buds, the leaves also burn.

In the Middle Zone, rhododendrons resistant to scorching by the early spring sun include: Ledebura, Canadian, Glutinous, Vazeya, Pink, Costerianum, as well as alpine (dwarf) species. Unfortunately, the most popular species (Japanese, Schlippenbach, Yellow, as well as large-leaved evergreen rhododendrons) are “afraid” of excessive early spring sun activity and periodically get sunburned. These damages can be prevented by shading the plants with shields on the south and west sides in February-March.

Instead of making shields, you can simply drive in stakes and securely attach the shading material to them. Evergreen rhododendrons, in addition to the sun, also suffer from the wind in winter, so in open, windy areas it is better to protect them by driving and tying 3-4 stakes in a hut. Attach the shading material to these stakes, leaving a gap for ventilation at the bottom and always at the top, since the bottom gap will be covered with snow. As a shading material, you can use white spunbond (lutrasil) with a density of 60 g/m2, vegetable mesh bags (double layer) and other suitable materials. The shading height is approximately 1.5 times higher than the plant.

Planting rhododendrons

Rhododendrons have a compact superficial fibrous root system, so if you correctly remove the plant from the soil, replanting is painless (at any age). Rhododendrons - moisture-loving plants, but cannot tolerate excess water in the soil. Therefore, in swampy areas that are flooded in spring, as well as when groundwater occurs at a depth of less than 1 meter, good drainage is required.

The easiest way out is to plant in high beds. Their height should be 10-15 cm higher than the maximum level of water rise during spring floods, so that the root collar does not get wet. To prevent the embankment from spreading, it is good to use stones (except limestone), with which, by the way, they are in great harmony due to their “mountain” origin.

Perhaps the most important point- preparing the substrate for planting. It should be acidic (pH = 4.5 - 5.5), loose, water- and breathable. Best cast: sour high-moor peat, garden soil (loam) and pine litter, taken in equal parts. There is another option: 1 part of garden soil plus 2 parts of acidic high-moor sphagnum peat, which can be replaced with sphagnum moss, often found in our forests. In turn, clay is sometimes used instead of garden soil, but it should be 1.5-2 times less.

Rhododendrons should not be planted in pure acidic high-moor peat or a mixture of peat and coniferous litter without adding loam (clay), because if such a substrate dries out very much (for example, due to drought and lack of watering), it is very difficult to moisten it - the water stands on the surface as a “bubble”, spreads around the edges, absorbed into the surrounding soil, and, despite further watering and precipitation, the lump itself remains dry inside and the plant suffers from lack of moisture. But at the same time, in order for the substrate to be loose and sufficiently breathable, it is not necessary to add more than 1/3 of the loam to the volume of the mixture.

Rhododendrons have a compact root system, so there is no need to strain and dig a huge hole. Its optimal diameter is 60 cm, and its depth is 40 cm. Such a pit requires at least 8 full buckets (10 liters) of high-moor peat (or peat + coniferous litter or moss-sphagnum) and about 3-4 buckets of loam (or 1, 5-2 buckets of clay). All components of the substrate are thoroughly mixed, poured into the hole and compacted. Then they dig a hole corresponding to the size of the root ball, which, before planting, is completely immersed in water and kept there until the emission of bubbles stops. The space around the root ball is filled with the removed substrate and lightly compacted so that there are no voids left.

Rhododendrons are planted at the same depth at which they grew in the container. It is very important not to deepen the root collar. After planting, the bushes are watered abundantly and mulched with pine bedding or peat (layer 3-4 cm).

If it is not possible to immediately obtain such a number of substrate components, then you can prepare a smaller pit, for example, for small plants 2-3 years old, you can first prepare a pit with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 30 cm. Such a pit requires approximately 1.5 buckets peat and half a bucket of loam, and after 2-3 years, when the roots have mastered this volume, dig a groove 15 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, following the example of a previously made hole, and add the remaining substrate.

A 2-3 year old rhododendron seedling has a small root ball and when planted on open place will suffer from a lack of moisture due to the rapid drying out of the top layer of soil. It is better to first plant such a plant in some protected shaded place, in a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 20-25 cm, and after 2-3 years, plant it in a permanent place.

Sawdust, manure, manure humus, black soil, leaves and bottom peat should not be used as components of the substrate for planting rhododendrons.

Caring for rhododendrons

If rhododendrons are planted in the right area, in carefully prepared soil and mulched, then their care is minimal.

In the first year after planting, it is especially important that rhododendrons do not lack moisture. This is especially true for evergreen specimens. For irrigation, it is better to use soft (rain, river, pond) water. Loosening the soil directly around the plants is unacceptable because the superficial root system can easily be damaged. If weeds appear, they are pulled out without digging.

Rhododendrons respond positively to feeding. It is best to use mineral fertilizers, especially liquid ones, specifically designed for these plants. They also respond well to the common granular fertilizer “Kemira-universal”. It is used in dry form, evenly scattered on the ground around the plants at the rate of 1 Matchbox per sq. meter. This dosage is necessary for shrubs up to 40 cm high. If the rhododendrons are larger, the amount of fertilizer is doubled.

Fertilizing with any of the listed fertilizers is carried out from early May to mid-June every 2 weeks. At the end of June, rhododendrons are fed for the last time with potassium sulfate at the rate of 5 g (1 teaspoon) per 1 sq. meter, dissolved in 10 liters of water for young rhododendrons and 10 g for adults. Do not fertilize in July and August!

It is better not to use imported long-acting granular fertilizers. They are designed, as a rule, for the fact that there are six warm months in a year. And with our short summer, fertilizing with such fertilizers can lead to secondary growth in August and, accordingly, freezing of immature shoots.

Ash cannot be used as fertilizer, because it reduces the acidity of the soil, and this causes chlorosis - yellowing of the leaf blade between the veins. At the initial stage, the veins are still dark green in color, and then they also turn yellow.

To eliminate chlorosis, you can use special acidifiers, which are now sold in many stores. But, as a rule, they contain a large amount of nitrogen, and they can be used from the end of April to the end of May.

In addition, it is important to mulch the bushes annually with high-moor peat or half-rotted pine litter. When mulching, you should not fill the very base of the bush, because this can lead to warming of the bark in winter time of the year.

If fertilizing with special fertilizers for rhododendrons and mulching is carried out, then there is no need “just in case” to constantly specially acidify the soil. In August, watering should be sharply reduced so as not to stimulate the secondary growth of rhododendron shoots (if it rains at all, do not water at all ). To prevent fungal diseases, it is recommended to water rhododendrons with foundationazole or copper-containing preparations twice a season (in May and June). This is especially true for evergreen rhododendrons, as well as Ledebourg and Canadian rhododendrons.

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