As practice shows, despite the use of modern materials for the manufacture of heating radiators, cast iron products do not lose their consumer. And all because cast iron is distinguished by excellent heat transfer and at the same time has the inertia of energy release, being a good heat accumulator. Therefore, for many consumers, when choosing between batteries and heating boilers, or rather, heat exchangers built into them, their manufacture from cast iron is decisive. For the same reason, many are in no hurry to replace old heating systems that have served for more than a dozen years.
However, sometimes cast iron radiators, having a considerable service life behind, require repair. Usually it consists in replacing a leaky and leaking gasket between the sections, which is possible only with a partial disassembly of the battery. It is possible that a modern cast-iron radiator will not have to be disassembled. Such a need may arise in the event of a miscalculation in the number of sections for heating a certain separate room, when it is necessary to increase the radiator by adding its structural elements.
In other words, from the potential to be disconnected, not a single cast-iron radiator during its operation, which is calculated in tens of years, is not insured, and therefore knowledge of the rules for disassembling and assembling these products can be useful.
How to disassemble a new cast iron radiator
A new radiator, which does not last long, rarely leaks, more often the need to disassemble it arises if you want to add (or add, sometimes this) number of sections.
For whatever reason there is a need for disassembly, the battery, first of all, must be disconnected from the supplied communications and removed from the hooks holding it. Before doing this, do not forget to drain the coolant from the system or turn off the taps on the pipes, if any.
It is also necessary to drain the water from the battery itself, lifting one of its sides. Due to the massiveness of the cast-iron radiator, it is better to do the work with an assistant. The product, freed from the contents, is laid flat on pre-laid boards or, say, chipboard sheet or OSB face up.
Now you need to unscrew the fittings (hollow nuts with internal and external threads for connecting pipes to the battery) and plugs using an appropriately sized or adjustable wrench.
It's time to disconnect the section and for this you need a special plumbing radiator wrench. You will not find this tool in stores, you can rent it in special services or ask a plumber you know to use it. The point is that it is homemade device so no two keys are the same. What they have in common is a working rectangular tip with dimensions of 40x24 mm, which is either welded to a long (up to 70 cm) piece of metal reinforcement or pipe. On the other side of the iron bar, there is usually an eyelet for inserting some kind of lever into it.
Before proceeding with untwisting, you need to decide on the direction of the thread. There may be nuances, but in most cases, if you approach the radiator from the front, there will be a right-hand thread on the right, and on the left, respectively, left. Usually this rule applies to plugs and butts on each side, so the direction of the thread can be recognized from them. On modern models near the inlet holes there may be markings L - left-hand, R - right-hand thread.
Having decided on the thread, you can start disassembling the cast iron radiators. If you need to disconnect the outermost segments, it is usually easy to find the desired nut with a wrench. When you are interested in a connection located closer to the middle of the battery, it is advisable to make a mark on the key corresponding to the distance from the inlet to the desired articulation of the segments. You can mark with chalk, a piece of scotch tape or electrical tape, winding in the right place. Now you need to enter the key, turning it slightly while passing through the holes encountered.
Having found the desired nipple-nut and introducing the working tip into its hole, you can insert a knob into the eyelet on the other side of the key and try to rip off the nut according to the direction of the thread. The applied force can be perceptible, so it is better to take the knob stronger and more authentic. If the nut gives in, you can turn it no more than half a turn, so that there is no distortion and tension, which brittle cast iron does not like. Now the same procedure must be done with another nut tightening the sections of interest.
The nipples are unscrewed one by one, - one turn - lower, one turn - upper, and so on until the sections of the heating battery are completely disconnected.
Dismantling the old cast iron radiator
In order to disassemble a well-worn cast-iron radiator, you usually have to make great efforts due to the fact that over time the connecting nuts "stick", being covered with a decent layer of all sorts of deposits and deposits. In addition, corrosion can partially destroy the hole in the nipple, making the radiator wrench ineffective. Therefore, by providing possible difficulties, need to cook additional tool that you may need:
- blowtorch or hair dryer;
- Angle grinder (grinder) with a circle for metal;
- hacksaw for metal;
- small sledgehammer.
Disassemble the old heating battery better on the street, laying it on something wooden. Before proceeding with the disassembly of a long-serving radiator, it is advisable to thoroughly running water... Then you can try to do everything as with the new one. If the attempt to rip off the lag nut is unsuccessful, as is likely, additional measures can be taken.
- Heat the compound of interest. For this, it is better to use a blowtorch or, at least, a building hair dryer. The heating battery at the junction of the segments must be thoroughly warmed up in a circle, after which, without allowing it to cool, try to rip off the nut. You can try to do several heating-cooling cycles if the first time fails. When working with hot metal, do not forget about safety precautions, using thick protective gloves. If after this the process did not go, you will have to apply more radical ways impact.
- Saw the junction of the sections. This can be done faster with a grinder. But, at the same time, you cannot overdo it, because with such a sufficiently long exposure, cast iron can crack. Therefore, you need to cut it with short breaks, and not in one go. If you have the time and desire, it is better to do this using a hacksaw for metal.
- Split section. In the case when sawing does not seem like a good idea, but you still need to disassemble the battery, you can slowly, carefully (a fragment may bounce off) break one of the sections with a sledgehammer, starting from its middle and gradually moving towards the joints.
Assembling cast iron radiators
The battery can be reassembled in the reverse order. Before assembling, sort out the nipples, checking the quality of the thread and the internal hole for the radiator wrench. Replace nuts if necessary. Fresh pads are also needed, preferably made of paronite, but silicone is also possible. It is advisable to clean the surfaces of the sections at the joints with sandpaper, even if they are new.
Now the connecting sections are laid out against each other on a flat surface so that the holes coincide as much as possible. A gasket is put on the connecting nuts, after which the nipple is slightly screwed into two opposite sections at the same time, first at the top, then at the bottom (or vice versa). Tightening the nuts must also be done alternately, avoiding distortions. At first, the key is turned by hand without a wrench - the nipples, if they go along the thread, should be easily screwed in. Only the last turns of the nuts when assembling sections of cast-iron radiators should provide strong resistance when you need to use a knob.
Aluminum, bimetallic, cast iron radiators are assembled according to the same principle: sections in the upper and lower parts are connected with nipple-nuts. Nipple nuts are hollow ring nuts with external threads. Both ends are threaded. Special grooves are made inside each. During assembly-disassembly, a key is inserted into them, rotating which is tightening or disconnecting (depending on the direction of rotation) of both sections. Sealing is provided by a gasket made of paronite or silicone, put on top of the nut.
As a rule, it is necessary to disassemble and assemble heating batteries in the following cases:
Dismantling the aluminum and bimetallic radiator
Before disassembling the radiator, prepare the necessary tools.
A nipple wrench is used as the main tool (can be rented in a specialized store for little money). It is a bar with a length of about 700 mm. On the one hand, a key head with a size of 24x40 mm is welded to it, and on the other it is made through hole... You can insert a metal bar into it. With its help, it will be easier to scroll the nut.
This is the main tool used when assembling / disassembling heating radiators.
There are several notches on the surface of the key. The distance between them corresponds to the width of the radiator section. By inserting the key inside the battery, and counting the number of notches, you can easily find the nipple for the desired section.
Before disassembling the heating battery, you need to orient yourself with the direction of rotation of the key. Place the radiator face up on a flat horizontal surface. There will be a right-hand thread on the right, and a left-hand thread on the left. In order not to get confused, you can do it easier: take the nut and bait it alternately on the right and left, and then we conclude in which direction to turn the key. This is important because the threads are easy to rip off and two new sections must be purchased. Imported manufacturers make the following designations for the thread on the plugs and butts on the front side of the section: D-right, S-left.
Let's say you need to unscrew one section on the right. To do this, insert the key with a "spatula" into the upper hole to the desired location, fix it in the groove of the nipple-nut and with an effort turn the key counterclockwise, "tear" it out of place. This is where a rod inserted into the ring on the key may be needed: a decent amount of effort is required.
We make two full turns and move the key to the bottom of the radiator. We repeat the operation by rotating the key in the same direction. We unscrew the nipple by 2 turns here too. Take out the key again and repeat the procedure for the upper part. So, one by one, unscrew the section completely. This is done so that there are no distortions.
How to assemble an aluminum radiator
Putting it up in reverse order. We place the sections on a flat surface ( suitable sizes table or just put it on the floor). If the radiator is not new, we unscrew the end cap and the Mayevsky tap.
Before installation, the threads and grooves should be well examined, they must be of high quality, without chips and drops. On the section to be mounted for the test, we "drive" the thread by screwing in and unscrewing the nipple. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that a gasket may be located in front of the thread under a layer of factory paint. Rub lightly the end with fine sandpaper, if it is found there, then it must be carefully cut off with a knife with a sharp blade.
Before adding sections of the heating radiator, be sure to clean the ends to a smooth surface. We even remove the factory paint. On the ends of the radiators, it is not needed, but only will help early manifestation leaks. Sooner or later, coolant will begin to seep under the paint. In the case of non-freezing liquids, this will happen very soon, if water is used in the system, then not very much, but it will certainly happen. And then the coolant will begin to leak between the sections, although the gaskets are still in perfect condition... And the whole point is that the paint at the ends has exfoliated or corroded, microcracks have appeared. So be sure to clean the ends before pure metal, but we use fine sandpaper to make the metal surface smooth and scratch-free. This ensures that the system operates without leaks in the radiators.
For better tightness, the ends then need to be degreased (you can use gasoline). The gaskets are also degreased, but they must be washed with ordinary soapy water. For a system that will be filled with water, degreasing is an optional procedure, and for systems that will operate on antifreezes, it must be carried out. Antifreeze is very fluid and seeps into the smallest pores. After everything is dry, we begin to collect aluminum radiators.
Then we bait both nipple-nuts by half a turn. On top of the nipple, heat-resistant paronite (silicone) gaskets are put on to seal the joints. Now we take the section that needs to be screwed and put it tightly on the nuts, checking the tightness of their fit. Next, insert the key into the upper hole and twist it 1-2 turns. In this case, we do not use the lever yet. We twist our hands. Then we do the same operation in the lower hole. We repeat several times, alternately tightening both nuts for several turns.
We twist as much as we have enough strength. Only after hand tightening can the lever be used. This must be done in two steps on each nipple. It is better not to apply excessive efforts during the final tightening of the nipples, since you can easily break the thread: aluminum is a soft metal, do not forget.
If the section is completely assembled, we screw the plug onto the unused holes on one side, and on the other - the Mayevsky valve (to release air from the system). Now you know how to assemble sections of a heating radiator and, if necessary, you can expand several sections.
Dismantling cast iron radiators
The most common cast iron radiators MC140. During their operation, and this is in some cases 30 and more years, they showed themselves only from the best side:
- accumulates heat;
- resistant to poor quality coolant;
- ease of maintenance;
- reliable and have long term service (from 10 years and above)
How to make out this grandfather? And it is very simple, because structurally all radiators are assembled according to one principle: using nipple nuts and gaskets for tightness. True, in those ancient times, tow with paint was screwed onto the nut and there was a rubber gasket.
There are no problems with disassembling a new radiator. But with the old one you have to tinker with:
- over time, the joint between the sections "sticks";
- the inner lugs for the key are corroded by the coolant.
That is why it is rather problematic to disassemble the old "cast iron".
Another difficulty in working with cast iron is its heavy weight... The mass of one "clean" section is 7.5 kg. The battery of 10 sections weighs 75 kg, so it is better to carry it with two people. Before disassembling the radiator, it is best to remove and rinse it. A lightweight battery can be washed in a bathtub by placing a cloth beforehand. To do this, it is best to take a piece of hose, connect it to a tap with cold water and rinse well. If you feel sorry for the bath, you can go out into the yard. Only the availability of water is important, you also need a drain: any horror in the water will be more than enough.
The place for disassembling the radiator is chosen even and spacious enough. If you live in a multi-storey building, then this work can be done on the staircase. Of the tools you will need:
- radiator key;
- chisel, hammer, small sledgehammer;
- brush with metal bristles, blowtorch;
- several boards or chocks for lining under the battery;
- plumbing wrench No. 2,3 for unscrewing side plugs (futorok) and plugs.
A few words about the key: you are unlikely to find something like this in a store, it is easier to search in the market or borrow from a plumber you know.
The key is a round bar with a diameter of 18 mm. On the one hand, it is flattened in the form of a paddle for the inner size: its width is 28x40mm and its thickness is 6mm. On the other hand, a ring is welded to it, into which a lever is inserted for rotation. The key length is defined as ½ the length of the largest radiator plus approximately 300 mm. You can also make such a "miracle" from a suitable piece of half-inch pipe by flattening one end. But this option is only suitable for disassembling a new radiator.
The joint is dripping - the gasket has leaked. Need to disassemble cast iron battery and change it
To facilitate the work, the joint must be warmed up before disassembling construction hairdryer or blowtorch... This is where the boards are needed: you put the battery on them and heat.
There are a lot of problems with "boiled" sections. They became so close that significant physical effort does not help. Then the first "medicine" is heating. Heat the metal to a weak glow, then try to unwind (only take thicker gloves). Another option may come up: unwind after cooling, but only immediately after the temperature has dropped. In this case, microcracks are formed in the gaskets, and such a connection is destroyed more easily.
Now about the procedure. Having previously unscrewed the plugs, we apply the key on top of the radiator, aligning the key head with the place where the nipple will be unscrewed, and make a circular chalk mark on the key body along the end of the section. Instead of chalk, you can use a piece of duct tape or tape. Next, insert the key into the lower inner hole and turn it slightly along the axis to the right and left to bring it to the mark made.
Now about the direction in which you need to unscrew the section. If there is a nipple, then "bait" it alternately with the left or right side... We determine in which direction it is twisted. Then unscrew the nut with a wrench in the opposite direction. If the thread is right-handed (twisted clockwise), then to unscrew it, turn the key counterclockwise. For left-hand threads, unscrew clockwise.
If a miracle happened, and you managed to break the thread, do not rush to untwist it completely. Unscrew the nut one turn, then do the same for the top nipple. And so, little by little, unscrew it from above, then from below. Cast iron does not like distortions and can split corny. We untwist all sections in the same way.
It happens that a leaked section cannot be unwound. Then try to cut it in the center of the nipple with a "grinder" or a hacksaw for metal. Only cut the section very carefully. After all, cast iron by nature is a fragile material. There is another way: the middle part of the unusable section is simply broken with a small sledgehammer on both sides, and the nipples are unscrewed with a plumbing wrench or knocked out with a hammer and chisel.
Assembling a cast iron radiator
It is carried out in the reverse order, the only difference is in changing the direction of rotation of the key. Do not forget about replacing the gaskets, it is best to buy paronite in the store, they are stronger, more durable and withstand aggressive heat carriers (antifreezes).
Suddenly you will not find such gaskets, you can use sanitary linen. It is wound on the right thread in a clockwise direction, and on the left thread, on the contrary, counterclockwise. Also, for reliability, a sealant (for example, Unilock) can be applied to the nipple-nut thread. If you plan to use antifreeze in the system, then paint cannot be applied to the reel - it will corrode very quickly and you will have to repack everything. And this is draining the system, flushing it, disassembling it, then assembling all the sections ... a lot of work. So under the antifreeze system, use a chemical resistant sealant and paronite gaskets.
Outcomes
Assembly and disassembly of radiators from any material occurs in one scenario. Only weight can be different, and even some specific characteristics of metals (brittleness of cast iron, for example).
The reason why the disassembly and assembly of aluminum sections becomes the first necessity, does not always arise spontaneously.
The most unpleasant reason forces the owner to attract a qualified specialist to urgent repair your heating equipment.
The emergence cracks, obvious leaks, or fogging weakened ribs, directly, on the section itself, lead to the idea of its inevitable replacement. Another reason - increasing or decreasing the number of sections radiator to change the heat transfer coefficient.
Tool to help
A basic set of tools you can't do without:
- radiator, nipple wrench;
- open-end wrenches;
- mount;
- Bulgarian for edging operations;
- kit paronite gaskets, and plugs;
- adjustable, plumbing, wrench;
- construction hair dryer;
- gas wrench No. 2.
The role of the main tool in the forthcoming work is assigned to the nipple wrench.
The key is thick-walled tube with notches along the length and with a flat tip spatula... Instead of a radiator wrench, some plumbers use a metal tapered at one end kernel round shape, with a diameter of 18-20 mm... The tool is calibrated with a series of cuts, the pitch between which corresponds to the width of one section.
Adjustable or open-end wrench essential for gently loosening galvanized couplings and enamelled end caps. A pry bar, a grinder and a construction hair dryer may be needed if problems arise with dismantling stuck joints.
Dismantling and assembling an aluminum radiator with your own hands
The site where the radiator will be restored, covered thick cloth ... If this is a table surface, then the main work will not take place on weight. The prepared place will protect soft aluminum from getting unnecessary deformations and scratches.
Important! Before removing the slip-on couplings a rag is spread under the radiator to protect the floor from dirty liquid that may leak out during dismantling. You need to have a rag on hand to absorb any remaining moisture inside the sections.
Disconnection from the heating network
Before starting disassembly, the radiator is disconnected from the heating network shut-off valves... If the radiator has no shut-off valves, then invite a housing and communal services worker so that it turns off the heating riser to conduct renovation works.
During the heating season, after closing the radiator, pause. Since the water is still hot wait a while until the liquid cools down, and then disconnect the radiator from the heating pipes.
Heat carrier remaining in the battery poured into a prepared bucket and proceed to the separation of the sections. Immediately after dismantling inner surface the batteries are washed with running water.
How to disassemble and reassemble the battery
Aluminum sections, connected nipple nuts. Inner part such a connector has protrusions for which the nut grips the nipple wrench and unscrews it. The nut is like a clutch, only her thread is external... One nipple nut has both right-hand and left-hand threads. They are made in pairs for the top and bottom connection. When the nipple is unscrewed, the sections diverge, when tightened, they are pulled together.
Preliminary all plugs and adapters are twisted from the ends... The connector must be accessible from all sides for the nipple wrench.
Photo 1. Fastening the sections of the aluminum radiator to each other: the nipple-nuts are unscrewed when disconnected.
To disassemble the battery, the tool blade is placed through the open end of the radiator into the slots of the unscrewed top nipple-nuts and with some pressure make a trial scroll counterclockwise to move the connection. If the key turns the nut normally, then it is inserted into the grooves bottom nipple nut and, as in the first case, try to turn it a couple of turns.
Important! When unscrewing the connectors, follow the sequence of actions to avoid skewing.
After disconnection, exposed thread carefully examined for cracks and chips, on thread integrity... If necessary, the joints are cleaned with fine emery cloth.
Starting the assembly of the radiator sections, onto the upper and lower nipple-nuts put on o-rings made of paronite, placed between the sections. I lightly press the sections against each other and screw them up alternately. Turning the nuts, so as not to get skewed, is limited two turns of the key.
If something went wrong
During operation joints between sections and steel nuts stick to each other... This comes from the quality of the coolant supplied to the heating system. Sometimes even considerable physical effort is useless.
Despite the fact that sticking must be dealt with, aluminum is easily deformed as it is a soft metal.
By heating the joints with a building hair dryer, you can overcome stuck rust... If this did not help, too, having corroded too much, then the edging machine gets down to business.
Advice. If the nipple nut does not loosen under heavy pressure, then no need to increase the applied force with excessive leverage... In the worst case, not only the nut itself will break, but both sections, which sit tightly on this nut, will crack.
The grinder is trimmed leaky section with back side and stepping back from the edge of the joint at least half the length of the sleeve. This protects the working section from destruction and does not cut the connecting nut. The rust bounces off during trimming, making it easier to unwind the intact section.
From the author: Hello friends! Modern market offers a huge number of different heating radiators. They compare favorably with those clumsy products that were previously installed in all apartment buildings... Moreover, the difference lies not only in appearance but also in functionality and ease of use.
Of course, for ease of use, you need to know at least basic information about batteries - for example, how to disassemble a bimetallic heating radiator, and then reassemble it. This procedure is necessary in two cases.
The first is to increase the number of sections. If you do not have enough heat given off by the battery, you can simply disassemble it, insert a couple of additional segments and enjoy. comfortable temperature in an apartment or house.
The second case is the need for repair work. Even the highest quality radiator is not immune to damage. Moreover, the most frequent cases are not the consequences of design flaws, but an external mechanical effect. For example, radiators often suffer from active children's play.
In any case, the problem is solved quite simply. To do this, you need a minimal set of tools, your hands and a small amount of time.
Radiator design
Before disassembling a bimetallic radiator with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the design of the equipment. In principle, here you can immediately talk about another variety, namely, about aluminum batteries. They are made according to the same principle as bimetallic ones, so the disassembly process is almost the same.
There are some moments in life when you start thinking about renovating living quarters... One of the works that must be performed is the dismantling of old equipment heating system... At such moments, the question arises of how to disassemble aluminum radiator heating. Despite all the complexity and importance of this undertaking, it is quite easy to dismantle the product if you approach the problem responsibly.
The tool you need to get the job done
First of all, to work, you should find out the exact dimensions aluminum batteries heating. To measure them, you will need a construction tape or a special folding rule. Also, if both types of devices are missing, you can use the standard student ruler. It should be noted that most of the rulers are only 30 centimeters long, so you will have to make notes on the radiator (it is better to use a pencil that can be easily washed off the surface).
Each new mark will be the end of the previous measurement and the beginning of a new one. The resulting sizes are added to the true size. Dismantling aluminum radiators requires other tools that are desirable to use for dismantling work, namely:
- Full set wrenches(end and cap).
- Radiator key.
- Pliers.
- Screwdriver.
Procedure for dismantling old heating equipment
It is worth noting that some equipment manufacturers have their own characteristics that are used in the design. They are not very different, but they can dramatically change the order of work and actions. Disassembling aluminum radiators can be difficult without documentation for the device. Also, it would not hurt to determine the type of radiator.
The second point is to disconnect the radiator from common system heating. A prerequisite is getting rid of water. There are several differences in this process, since aluminum bimetallic radiators differ in design. Each of them has a special coupling that attaches the water supply hose to the radiator itself.
Perhaps a cutaway aluminum radiator will help to dismantle it. It can be found in blueprints and sketches. Well, after the coupling moves freely along the pipe, it should be removed from the thread. The removed radiator is placed on a flat surface. This could be the floor of a building or a editing table. Liquid and some dirt may remain inside the radiator.
In order to avoid getting the residue from the radiator onto a clean surface, a cardboard paper or film. The heating device is placed facing the installer. In this position, the right-hand thread will be considered on the one hand, and the left-hand thread on the left. This condition is used for illustrative example actions, therefore in a real situation, after some work performed, the position may be changed.
These features are not very important for an experienced installer, but will become a serious problem for beginners to achieve results. Special attention requires an aluminum radiator Radolit. Its design and details are insignificant, but slightly different from the above model.
After placing the device in the position defined above, a special filter is removed from it. The main task of the installer is to instantly clean it from residues. If this cleaning process is not carried out, there is a possibility that the dirt will harden and the filter that can be used to install new equipment will need to be thrown out and replaced, which is a waste of money and time. At the end of the cleaning, a socket wrench (ring) is taken and the elements connecting the sections of the heating system are unscrewed with smooth unhurried actions.
Perhaps, to complete the unscrewing process, there will be the best option use a wrench with a special ratchet. Upon completion of this stage, the key is replaced by a radiator key. Its design is so simple that, in its absence, it is created with your own hands, using a welding machine metal products... With its help, we dismantle the nipples. The key for disassembling aluminum batteries is placed at the maximum nipple depth.
The turns must be done in an appropriate manner that will leave the threads intact and intact. There are two types of gaskets under the nipples. The silicone ones must be thrown away, and the second gasket must be cleaned of debris, dust or dirt. The moment the device is assembled, the silicone gaskets are replaced with new ones.
Particular attention should be paid to the fact that a small number of modern aluminum radiators are not intended for disassembly. The likelihood of parsing them is high. The efforts that are being made at the moment are maximum. The main thing is that after disassembly, such products cannot be returned to former appearance... Here you should be careful, and, perhaps, consult with a specialist in this matter.
On this stage, the disassembly of the heating system ends. All parts of it are washed, sealant and grease are applied to the joints, new gaskets are installed, and the mechanism is assembled by analogy with the dismantling process. Only, the operations are performed from the last point and gradually move up to the top of the list. For high-quality performance of work, you need to have a certificate of conformity for aluminum radiators.
Some features of cleaning radiators
The main condition for correct and effective use product is its purity. This procedure should be performed every year when the heating season... To clean the radiator you may need:
- Steel rope.
- Bronze powder.
- Epoxy resin.
The cable is necessary to perform work on cleaning the damaged area, if any. Epoxy resin and bronze powder are necessary for the preparation of a solution, which is used to putty on damaged surfaces. The user chooses the consistency of the solution on his own. The main condition is that the resin does not harden before it is applied to the damaged area of the heating system.
Cleaning from the remnants of rust, dirt that enters the system with water, is carried out after disassembly, which is described above.
After reading this manual, there should be no questions left, but if they did appear. You should consult with a professional or entrust him with the performance of this work.