All about the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. Purpose, design, correct installation and repair of the external unit of a split system. How much does a split system air conditioner weigh?

Today we will look at the main functions and technical characteristics of an air conditioner for domestic use that the user needs to know. This material will be useful for those who are planning to buy an air conditioner, even if you do not install it yourself.

Air conditioner power

Power is the most important parameter device. There are three directions that are indicated by the manufacturer. These are cooling power, heating power and power consumption.

Cooling power (Cooling capacity)

Cooling power is the most important characteristic, which is expressed in kW or BTU. If everything is clear with power in kW, then BTU is a British thermal unit. It was in them that the power of the air conditioner was previously measured.
The power of the device determines the area that it can cool in normal operating mode. Normal mode means operation of the device, without constant high loads on the compressor, which arise as a result of incorrectly calculated power of the device and the size of the room.
Thus, if you install a split system designed to cool a room of 20 square meters, into a room measuring 30 square meters, then due to lack of power the device will always work at increased loads, in order to ensure the set temperature, which leads to rapid wear of spare parts, and as a result, early failure of the device.

When independently calculating the power of an air conditioner for a room, you should expect that 1 kW (3412 BTU/h) of the cooling capacity of the air conditioner can provide 10 sq. m. room area with standard height to the ceiling (2.5-3 m.). Thus6 for a room measuring 25 sq.m. the required power is 2.5 kW (approximately 9000 BTU).

Also, to independently calculate the capacity of the air conditioner, you can use this table:

Heating power (Heating capacity)

Heating power is a similar characteristic of cooling capacity. It is measured and calculated completely the same way, but only for those devices that have this function. Today this is the majority of household split systems, but there are also models that do not support the heating function.

Power consumption

This parameter is often confused with cooling capacity or heating capacity, since it is also measured in kW. But this is a little different.
The power consumption of an air conditioner is a characteristic that expresses the amount of electricity consumed by the device. It can also be different (minimum, maximum, nominal) - and, as a rule, the cooling power is several times lower. Thus, with a cooling power of 2.5 kW, the air conditioner consumes approximately 0.8 kW - less than an iron, electric kettle and many other household electrical appliances.

Energy efficiency

Air conditioner energy efficiency is a parameter that contains two previous parameters. Essentially, this is the coefficient between them. This indicator is a technical characteristic of all modern electrical appliances and reflects energy efficiency (efficiency).

If we talk about energy efficiency within an air conditioner, it is expressed as the ratio of the power produced (cooling or heating) to the electrical power consumed. If we look at an example, we will take a device with a cooling capacity of 2.2 kW and a power consumption of 0.6 kW. The energy efficiency factor will be 3.67.

In modern electrical appliances, it is customary to divide energy efficiency into groups, from A to G, the higher the class, the more economical in energy consumption the device is considered. In our example, it is 3.67 - which belongs to class “A” (the most economical devices). Accordingly, devices of class B have more energy-consuming indicators than A, class C is more energy-consuming than B, etc.

Sound pressure value

It is also one of the most important parameters, which essentially displays the noise level of the device and is expressed in dB. The manufacturer usually indicates the noise level of the outdoor unit, since the indoor unit often has several speeds, depending on which the noise level changes. In addition, the indoor unit is always quieter than the outdoor unit.
It is worth noting that the noise level of the outdoor unit also depends on its type and size. Let’s say the “seven” block, of the “on/off” type, has a noise level of approximately 45-55 dB. But another type of air conditioner, inverter, does not have a constant noise level, but a maximum one. How long this type Since air conditioners are designed in such a way that their performance constantly changes during operation, their noise level is dynamic. Therefore, it is customary to indicate only the maximum value.

Permissible operating temperature

Acceptable working temperature outside air is a recommendation that indicates at what temperature the device can be safely used. Operating the air conditioner at a temperature that is higher or lower than the permissible temperature can lead to rapid failure of the device.

For most household split systems that are not equipped with a heating function, the lower threshold for outside temperature is 5°C. It is unlikely that you will want coolness when the temperature outside is this high, but this is an important parameter. The fact is that at this temperature, physical processes begin to change the structure of freon and compressor oil, which is why, immediately after start-up, your compressor may jam. In addition, the drain hole of the drainage hose freezes over - and all the condensation from the air conditioner will flow back into the room.

Distance between outdoor and indoor units of air conditioner

This is the communication distance between the indoor and outdoor units. This characteristic is often not paid attention to, but in vain. The fact is that if you reduce the length of the route from the recommended 5 meters (in most cases, exactly 5 meters is the recommended distance) to 1-2 meters, then the parameters of the refrigeration cycle will change, which will lead to an early failure of the device. In such cases, the route is often twisted into a ring behind the outdoor unit. Not experienced craftsmen cut the route to the required length.

In addition to the minimum length, there is also maximum length communication routes. For household appliances usually this is 15-20 meters; anything beyond that can only be achieved by industrial air conditioners. The longer the route, the lower the efficiency of the device. The load on the compressor unit increases, heat loss increases.

Popular Features

Possibility of ventilation (fresh air supply)

In fact, only a ducted air conditioner has the ability to ventilate the room, due to its technical features. But the majority household air conditioners work in this mode simply as a “Fan”. The fan of the indoor unit turns on, but the compressor simply does not turn on in this mode. Used for smooth distribution of air around the perimeter of the room, for example in the winter, when warm air accumulates near the radiators and near the ceiling.

Although some modern models are still equipped with such a function that really takes Fresh air from the street and allows it into the room, but these are quite expensive and rare models that cost quite a lot and have complex installation.

Air dehumidification

In dehumidification mode, the air conditioner reduces the amount of moisture in the air. Recommended for regions with high humidity.
It is worth noting that the air dehumidification mode accompanies its cooling. This is due to the principle of its operation. Warm air comes into contact with the cold heat exchanger, as a result of which condensation is released from the air, which goes into the drain hose of the device. Thus, there is less moisture in the air.

Air cleaning

Air purification often goes like this: additional function to the air conditioner, although in fact it is already present in every device, but to a different extent. To clean the air, a filter is placed in front of the heat exchanger in the air supply channel. Thus, all the debris (fluff, hair, wool and other large particles) settles there. In air conditioners with an air purification function, an additional filter is installed fine cleaning, which cleans the air from small particles such as dust, pollen and even some harmful microorganisms.

Night mode

In night mode, the device, to reduce noise, switches to a reduced fan speed mode and slowly increases the air temperature by several degrees. Thus, creating more comfortable conditions for sleep.

Other characteristics

This is where the series of characteristics that are important and may be of interest to ordinary users ends. Of course, there are a number of characteristics that will be useful specifically to installation specialists, such as:

  • overall dimensions and weight of blocks;
  • tube diameters;
  • maximum height difference;
  • refrigerant type;
  • cross-section of power and interconnect cables;
  • and etc.

But this will be enough for us.

Greetings to all visitors to the Air Conditioner website! There are situations when you need to know the dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. This question arises when the block is planned to be placed in a limited space. Sometimes these dimensions play a decisive role in the choice.

It happens that in the allocated space there is not enough space for free arrangement of blocks. Then you have to choose a different installation location or, for example, replace two external units with one (this will already be a multi-split system).

On the Internet, for a specific air conditioner model, you will find characteristics that indicate the overall dimensions of the units. But if you have not yet decided on a specific model, then you will need to know at least the approximate dimensions. Today we will try to determine the average dimensions of the outdoor unit, focusing on the characteristics household wall split systems.

What determine the dimensions of the outdoor unit?

The dimensions of the block body, of course, are determined by the dimensions of the component parts. The largest parts of the external unit are the capacitor (radiator) and. The size of the blocks depends on their performance. The more powerful the air conditioner, the greater the “capabilities” and dimensions of its main components.

It's no secret that air conditioners come in different cooling capacities. In most cases, there is a direct relationship between the cooling capacity and the dimensions of the unit (especially one line). But when comparing different brands or models, it may turn out different numbers!

Of course, the more powerful the air conditioner, the larger its parts, the larger the dimensions of the units. But now “splits” with inflated characteristics are appearing. To reduce the price, they are assembled from budget components, which hardly provide the declared cooling capacity. This is also why different brands may have significantly different dimensions for the same power.

Dimensions of the external unit of the air conditioner

If we consider the productivity of a “split” up to 2.7 kW, then the height of the external unit will be approximately 42-60 cm. On average, this figure will be about 50 cm. You may need the height of the bracket “foot” - usually 7 cm.

The width (without taps “protruding” beyond the body) is usually 66-80 cm. Taking into account my experience, I suggest taking the distance of 70 cm. The depth of small air conditioners is usually 23-30 cm.

Thus, we received the approximate dimensions of the external unit:

  • height 50 cm;
  • width 70 cm (note that the service taps “protrude” beyond the body by an additional 6 cm);
  • depth 27 cm.

I will supplement these figures with the distance between the external block and the wall of the building - on average 15 cm. Taking into account this indentation, the external block will be located at a distance of 42 cm from the wall (cladding) of the house.

For clarity, we present the average dimensions of external units for household air conditioners in the form of a table.

Focusing on these numbers, do not forget about diversity climate control technology. If the place is under outdoor unit If you have a limited number, before purchasing the device, still check the dimensions for a specific air conditioner model.

You can ask additional questions in the comments!

Domestic and semi-industrial split systems consist of two blocks: internal and external, which is located outside the room. This separation is completely justified and even beneficial for users, since the noisiest components of the device - the compressor and fan - are placed “overboard”, and there is absolutely no need to think about where to discharge the warm air.

Internal structure of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Regardless of what type of construction the split system belongs to, it outdoor module always has the same working nodes:

  • The compressor is responsible for compressing freon under pressure until it enters the liquid phase;
  • The fan provides airflow to the heat exchanger and exhaust warm air from the block during cooling or its intake during heating;
  • The condenser is responsible for cooling the freon and its condensation;
  • The freon system filter protects the system circuit from dust, dirt and other small debris;
  • A capillary tube or TRV (thermostatic expansion valve) is needed to regulate the pressure and transfer freon into a mixture of gas and liquid.

If the air conditioner can operate in heat pump mode, then the outdoor unit is equipped with a four-way valve, which is controlled indoor unit. The four-way valve is responsible for swapping the blocks - the outer one takes heat from the street, and the inner one releases it into the room.

Monoblock split systems

There are air conditioners without an outdoor unit, but not mobile or window installations, namely monoblock splits, in which all components are located in one module. They consist of:

  • compressor;
  • electric drive;
  • heat exchanger;
  • fan;
  • mechanical and carbon filters;
  • recuperator.

These models of split systems have a double air duct through which warm exhaust air is released and fresh outdoor air is taken in. The condensate exits through the tube responsible for removing heat, along with the hot stream. From the outside, the air duct openings are covered with decorative ventilation grilles.

Among air conditioners without an outdoor unit, there are models that work not only for cold, but also for cold/heat. Manufacturers produce monoblock split systems with both linear (on/off) and inverter drives. There are even multi-split systems with two connected units that can function together or separately. They have small difference heights The blocks are placed either on top or bottom of the wall.

Most air conditioners that do not have an outdoor unit operate in standard modes: cooling, heating, ventilation, dehumidification. Average level noise is 28-37 dB with energy efficiency from class A to A++. Many have convenient settings like:

  • additional heater;
  • on/off timer;
  • air distributor;
  • defrosting functions;
  • economical night energy consumption mode.

The majority of monoblock split systems have an extended operating temperature range, which allows them to function in severe frosts.

The main advantages of such devices include:

  • lightweight wall mounting;
  • fresh air flow;
  • no need to lay drainage for a non-reversible device.

But they also have significant disadvantages, which are noted not only by installers, but also by buyers themselves:

  • fixed installation, which involves placement only on the outer wall of the room;
  • very sensitive heat exchanger;
  • fungus on the wall outside from constantly flowing condensation;
  • increased noise (when compared with conventional two-block systems);
  • uneven distribution of flows when installing the unit closer to the floor;
  • high price that does not meet user expectations.

Many are alarmed by the fact that the world's leading leaders in climate control technology do not produce monoblock split structures. Most of them belong to Chinese companies. In Russia you can find the following brands on store shelves:

  • UNICO STAR;
  • UNICO SKY;

In some cases, when the rules prohibit installing an outdoor air conditioner unit on the facade, a monosplit system is the only way to solve the problem of air conditioning an apartment or office.

Dimensions and power of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

The selection of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner and the location for its installation depends on the size of the unit. The concept of dimensions includes closely related specific quantities that indicate the physical parameters of the module, that is, height (H), width (W), depth (D), and cold power, which can be either nominal or variable.

Some capacitors require very powerful airflow, which can only be provided by two fans; accordingly, the dimensions of such a module will differ significantly from the dimensions of the cooling unit. small room in the apartment. When the power exceeds the established normal limits for the housing dimensions, the question arises of selecting a module with large dimensions.

The technical characteristics of the device usually indicate such data as H*W*D and cooling capacity. The former are measured in millimeters (mm), the latter in kilowatts (kW).

The size of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is affected by its power, and this is influenced by the area of ​​the heat exchanger, compressor and fan.

Place for placing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

As already mentioned, the size of the outdoor unit sometimes determines the most optimal location for its installation.

Standard installation involves mounting the device under the window just below the level of the window sill or on the side of the window, without entering the territory of the neighboring apartment. But there are also not quite standard options location of the external module. If the permissible route length and height difference allow, then installation can be carried out on the roof or attic of the house. Many people install the block on the facade of a balcony/loggia or inside them in the absence of full glazing. Those living in a private house or on the ground floor sometimes install it under the loggia, protecting it from adverse influences atmospheric phenomena and without thereby violating appearance buildings.

Of particular interest is the installation of an outdoor unit in the basement of a house. Such a project can be implemented if there is an increased route and height difference. If basement At the same time, it is heated, then the air conditioner can not only cool you down, but also warm you up in cold weather.

To do this, there is no need to install a winter kit on the device or buy a system with an extended operating temperature range, since the outdoor air conditioner unit installed in the basement will not be exposed to extremely low temperatures. The main thing is to ensure normal air circulation so that the heat exchanger does not overheat.

In summer, such rooms are usually cool, so there is a plus here - with this location, the external module will produce greater efficiency, since the air there is colder than outside.

What is the outdoor unit attached to?

During installation, the external module must be secured. For standard fastening of the block to the wall of a building, brackets consisting of two welded strips are used. They are usually made from durable profiles of different sections. They have two holes for mounting to the wall and two for installing the air conditioner itself. Such fasteners can withstand loads several times greater than the weight of an average block.

To install the device on the roof, floor, or ground, use universal stands for the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, which are made of metal and covered powder paint. They are attached to the surface through welded holes using frame-facade fasteners and have sliding strips that can be adjusted to any size of the device. As a rule, the stand for the outdoor unit of an air conditioner can support more than 250 kg, which corresponds to the weight of a very powerful industrial unit.

Rules for installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

Before you begin fixing, you should take into account the rules for installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner, failure to comply with which will result in incorrect operation of the device:

  • The device should not disturb the silence at night - the maximum permissible noise is about 32 dB. It is necessary to organize normal condensate drainage so that it does not fall on the walls of the house, the canopy of the entrance and people passing by;
  • Be sure to take into account the strength of the walls. It must withstand a load of several tens of kilograms. The air conditioner cannot be attached to aerated concrete structures. external cladding houses and a layer of insulation;
  • Brackets with a block are provided with the most reliable base and fastening;
  • To prevent the compressor from overheating, the minimum distance from the wall to the outdoor unit should not be less than 10 cm. There should be no obstacles to normal airflow;
  • The air conditioner is placed taking into account the need for free air circulation. The radiator requires normal cooling;
  • Provide good access to service valves so that preventive inspection can be carried out;
  • Multiple bending of the copper pipeline should not be allowed, since the kinks prevent the normal pumping of freon by the compressor;
  • The maximum length of the pipeline between the split system modules should not exceed the length specified by the manufacturer, otherwise the operating efficiency will noticeably drop;
  • Do not allow direct sunlight to hit the back of the device, so there is too much distance from outer wall should not be before the external block;
  • It is advisable to provide protection from moisture.

Compliance by installers with all rules for installing the outdoor unit of an air conditioner guarantees long-term and uninterrupted operation of the refrigeration machine.

Stages of installation of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

If installation is carried out at the stage repair work, then first they ditch the wall and lay the route. When installing a split system after repair, the communications are placed in boxes.

The external module itself is mounted, following the main stages of installation work:

  1. Make markings for the brackets. Their location relative to each other, relative to the window sill and relative to the existing hole for the route is taken into account.
  2. Use a hammer drill to drill holes in the wall.
  3. The brackets are secured with dowels with capcaillies or anchor bolts. An external block is installed on them and secured with bolts and nuts.
  4. Connect freon tubes. They must first be trimmed, chamfered and flared. Only after this you can connect.
  5. Connect the wires. Measure the required length, strip it and connect it to the terminal block. The connection is made according to the principle electrical diagram indicated on the unit itself or in the user manual.
  6. When the internal module is already installed, a vacuum pump is connected to the external one, air is pumped out from the route and the internal unit. Then let on the gas by opening the taps on the external unit and tighten all the protective caps.
  7. Place the protective cover on the device.

If installation is carried out by unqualified people, then repair of the external or internal unit may be required, which is not always cheap.

Repair and preventative maintenance

In what other cases may it be necessary to call a technician and carry out repair work to eliminate problems in the outdoor unit of the air conditioner?

As a rule, breakdowns of an outdoor unit can be associated with failure of the mechanical part of the device or the electrical and electronic system. The first group includes malfunctions of the refrigeration circuit elements, and the second includes failures in the control board or problems in the electrical circuit.

Mechanical breakdowns

If there is a breakdown in the mechanical part, then this can be expressed in the form:

  • freezing of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner;
  • the appearance of uncharacteristic noises and vibrations;
  • reducing the efficiency of blowing the heat exchanger;
  • the appearance of oil smudges on the ports.

Most of the problems listed are related to freon leakage or its initial shortage. The presence of these can be easily determined by a master using a pressure gauge.

There are other reasons why the outdoor unit of an air conditioner freezes, not only in winter in heating mode, but also in summer almost immediately after installation.

There may be excess refrigerant, excess air, or excess moisture in the system. It is possible that the capillary tubes are clogged or the device simply needs preventative cleaning, which includes washing the panels of both units, cleaning or replacing filters, and removing excess dirt from the fan and heat exchanger. A common problem is the incorrect length of the copper pipeline, which results in either a shortage or an excess of freon.

If none of these reasons are identified, refueling or complete recharging has been carried out, and the outdoor unit of the air conditioner continues to freeze, then you should look for the cause in a compressor malfunction.

Electrical and electronics failures

An equally serious problem can be the failure of the control board. As a rule, this is indicated by error codes and LED bulbs on the body indoor module, giving appropriate stop signals. If the board is burned out, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner may smoke, although smoke sometimes indicates a burnt-out compressor motor or blower fan.

At the slightest suspicion of electrical failures, you must immediately turn off the machine in the electrical panel that controls the air conditioner.

If the outdoor unit of the air conditioner smokes in heating mode in winter, this may not indicate a fire, but a defrosting of the heat exchanger (condenser). In this case, the smoke is just steam.

Regardless of the complexity of the breakdown, you must immediately turn off the power to the device and call a technician from the service department, who will inspect the system and repair the outdoor unit, if necessary.

Today hardly anyone can live without air conditioning. a private house, apartment, and shopping centers and offices. Split systems are in greatest demand today. This is a type of air conditioner that includes outdoor (remote) and indoor units. Their coordinated work is the key to the proper functioning of the split system.

What does the external unit consist of?

Because the street block exposed to the influence of high and low temperatures, it is subject to increased demands on the quality of workmanship. Its shape, which resembles a rectangular parallelepiped, allows you to place a set of the following parts and assemblies inside the case.

  • Fan - blows on the condenser, cooling the freon.
  • Condenser - in it the freon cools and passes from a gaseous state to a liquid.
  • A compressor is an engine that pumps up high pressure of the refrigerant, forcing it to move along the circuit (coil) of the refrigerator.
  • Four-way valve - it is equipped with air conditioners designed for heating and cooling modes. This part, upon command from the control panel of the indoor unit, changes the movement of freon and, accordingly, cooling in the summer to heating in the cold season.
  • ECU – this module is installed on the outdoor units of inverter air conditioners. They are less sensitive to temperature fluctuations than devices with non-inverter control.
  • Bends for connecting tracer pipes connecting the indoor unit with the outdoor unit. Freon flows through these pipes. Like electrical wiring with corrugation, they are protected by a box.
  • Retaining grille – protects parts and components of the outdoor unit from large objects, debris and insects.
  • A cover that protects the electrical terminals from precipitation.

This is a minimum set of elements, without which the circuit is broken and the operation of the device is impossible. The outdoor unit may also contain the following parts.

  • A voltage stabilizer is a protective circuit for electronic and electromechanical elements and components that are particularly sensitive to voltage surges.
  • Canopy – protects the outdoor unit from precipitation and reduces icing of the housing.
  • A hose through which water condensate flows. Connect it to the sewer or use it for drip irrigation plantings growing nearby. In winter, when heating and cooling change places, additional heating is used to prevent freezing - the condensate does not freeze into icicles on the body, but drains all away.

To prevent other troubles, install the following on the outdoor unit:

  • thorns - to prevent birds from landing;
  • reinforcement cage (this is an anti-vandal grille) - to protect against theft, it is not necessary to install it on the balcony and above the 1st floor;
  • mosquito net - to prevent poplar fluff and leaves from getting inside the block.

What is it needed for?

Window air conditioners are practically a thing of the past in microclimate technology. They occupied one of the upper window openings, and noise from the external unit in the room was commonplace. Efficiency window air conditioners was much lower, and energy costs were much higher. So, the external unit of a split air conditioner (literally, a divided air conditioning system) is designed to eliminate these shortcomings, namely:

  • remove the main source of noise and heat in summer (or cold in winter) outside the building, structure, home;
  • significantly reduce energy consumption and increase efficiency;
  • simplify maintenance - do not disassemble the entire air conditioner for cleaning, washing and repair at once, but divide the work into 2 fronts.

The disadvantage of a split system is that during installation and maintenance on high altitude the customer (and the performing company) cannot do without the help of a truck crane or climbers.

Dimensions

Private individuals - owners of apartments and dachas, for example, are not chasing multi-kilowatt power. If you do not create “autumn cold” in the room from 17 degrees, then a temperature of 21-24 degrees in summer is considered relatively normal for most people. The calculation takes into account the power of the air conditioner up to 2.7 kW. Then the average height of the external block will be only half a meter. The width of the unit is up to 0.7 m, the depth is up to 0.4, taking into account the removal of the device on suspensions at a distance from the wall of up to 10 cm. The dimensions of the external unit of the air conditioner with a consumption of 3.5 kW can reach 55 × 76.5 × 28, 5 cm, however, each manufacturer changes these figures downward. The weight of the assembled outdoor unit is 12-25 kg.

The smallest air conditioner is Ballu BSWI-09HN1. The model does not lack the main blocks and components necessary for high-quality cooling of the air inside the house. It is suitable for a room up to 16 m2 in size, consumes only 900 W when the compressor is running, and maintains a temperature of 21-23 degrees in the summer heat, even if it is 35 degrees outside. The dimensions of the external unit are 70*28.5*18.8 cm. The unit is compact and weighs a little more than a vacuum cleaner. You are unlikely to find a smaller and lighter split system. There is no point in producing external split system units smaller than a postal parcel. Micro-air conditioning is already the lot of do-it-yourself experimenters, although the technologies have been developed.

Where to install?

If you live (or work) on the ground floor, then the installation height from the ground is at least 2 m. This will help avoid damage or theft of the unit. Be sure to install the external unit in a welded reinforcement cage with thick (from 1.5 cm) rods. The cage itself must be locked with a massive lock with an anti-burglary mechanism. Its door must have reinforced hinges. On the second and subsequent floors it is not necessary to lock the block behind bars.

On top floor To avoid calling in climbers or truck cranes (both of which charge an hourly rate for work), some companies place external blocks on the edge of the roof. The maximum length of the “route” (each of the pipes) for the refrigerant is 20 m. A larger height difference between the outdoor and indoor units significantly wears out the compressor. He spends additional energy to overcome the force of gravity acting on the height of the column of liquefied freon.

As a result, the cold received in summer (or heat in winter) will be insufficient and does not correspond to the value declared by the manufacturer. Or the air conditioner will immediately give an emergency signal after starting. The best solution is to place the external and internal units at the same height. In a private house, the external block is often placed on the facade of the building. This applies to air conditioners of all types, including wall-mounted indoor units.

Installation rules

Without observing the following rules, work installed air conditioner may be significantly complicated or even impossible.

  • Brackets and brackets are installed with a margin of strength up to several times greater than the strength required for hanging the external unit. Ideally, both fastenings in total should support the weight of a person.
  • The load-bearing wall must be strong and fairly smooth. Uneven walls with old plaster and loose blocks and bricks used for masonry are excluded. Otherwise, the hanging device may fall and injure someone passing by.
  • On facades with a porous finish, for example, composite soffits on foam plastic, the fasteners are not mounted on the finish itself, but are drilled and cut into the wall (plaster, bricks). This will give suspended structure necessary strength and inviolability. You can use a basket - a ready-made lattice structure into which the external unit is lowered before connecting to the internal one and the mains voltage source.
  • You cannot place the external unit of the air conditioner close to the wall - this will prevent it from natural ventilation from the wind. Distance between back wall external block and wall finishing - at least 0.1 m.
  • The technicians or owner of the air conditioner performing maintenance must have unhindered access to the external unit. Mount the device so that it can be quick cleaning, prompt replacement of worn parts and assemblies.
  • Do not hang the outdoor unit vertically or slanted to either side. Its horizontal position is set strictly according to the level - this is necessary for uninterrupted circulation of freon in both directions.
  • The installation location can be a balcony or loggia that is not covered with double-glazed windows. The glazed space will create a locked chamber, where the temperature will soon reach 55 degrees, and the air conditioning will be interrupted - the heat must go somewhere.

The placement of communications also does not contradict the following rules.

  1. The maximum distance between the external and internal units can reach 30 m. However, there is a risk of completely losing the entire beneficial effect: while the cooled freon travels these 30 m, it will heat up almost to the original temperature. The compressor will run continuously, which can cause it to wear out quickly. Modern split systems, which have protection based on a self-diagnosis module, after useless operation for several minutes, having discovered that the room temperature has not decreased by a degree, simply turn off the power to the compressor and fans of the indoor and outdoor units. The optimal distance is 5 m for each of both pipes, then losses are small.
  2. Copper pipes must be sealed and thermally insulated.
  3. With absence finishing It is advisable to hide the route in the wall. Otherwise, place it in a box. But access to pipe and electrical connections must be present.
  4. It is not allowed to sharply bend the pipes - this will impede the passage of freon.
  5. It is advisable to install a separate line for the air conditioner with a circuit breaker.
  6. Route the hose to drain the condensed water into the drain. It is recommended to install the drain pipeline separately in the walls.
  7. It is recommended not to just start engineering Communication into the wall, and pass them through a special cup holder from the outside.
  8. Freon pipelines, electrical cables and drain hose hide in foam tubes. Then protect them with vinyl film.
  9. Before pumping freon using vacuum pump vacuum is carried out. It will remove remaining air and prevent freon from turning into exhaust gases, which are less useful. In addition, the tubes are protected from corrosion by vacuum.

The delivery of the installed air conditioner is preceded by a test run and checking the device for freon leaks. No less important indicators are constant freon pressure and regularity of condensate removal.

These rules are easy to apply - they are dictated by common sense and are easy to remember.

  1. It is prohibited to push foreign objects through the cage bars of the external unit, as well as through the curtains of the internal unit. Keep children away from the operating device.
  2. Check that maintenance is enabled room temperature 21-26 degrees. More low temperature during the heat period it can lead to healthy person before a cold - going outside after spending many hours in the cold represents temperature fluctuations of 10 degrees or more, as during a sudden change in weather in the off-season.
  3. Do not operate the air conditioner with the windows open. Modern technology does not allow the compressor to overheat and the fans to operate uselessly if the temperature in the room after switching on has not dropped even by a few tenths of a degree. But not all models are equipped with such a “smart” function - low-budget air conditioner models simply do not have it. The device will work absolutely ineffectively, like an old Soviet refrigerator in which the compressor does not turn off around the clock. As a result, all air conditioner motors will fail before the warranty period expires.
  4. Curtain the window on a bright sunny day - excess daylight does not allow the indoor unit to adequately perceive the signal from the infrared LED of the remote control. This or that command is triggered every once in a while - you need to bring the remote control too close to the air conditioner for it to work.
  5. Do not use air conditioning, for example, in the bathroom - excess vapor turns into excess condensation in the indoor unit, which contributes to clogging of drainage and filters.
  6. Regularly turn on the air conditioner purely in fan mode - this will blow out excess condensation.
  7. Clean the indoor unit filters every 2 weeks. It is advisable to wash the external unit at least once every 1-2 months.
  8. Do not place heating or heating devices near the indoor unit. Minimum distance – 1 m.
  9. Provide necessary protection air conditioner from interference sources. The indoor unit should not be adjacent to devices that use radio signals for data transmission and cellular communications. So, do not install nearby 3G/4G modems, routers or Wi-Fi repeaters, the system unit of a home PC, etc. As for the external unit, it is prohibited to place it, for example, near a cell tower and radio relay equipment, if they are located nearby on the roof - the power of their signal is tens of times greater than the radiated power of a smartphone or tablet. Interference from them can reach the processor of the indoor unit and interfere with its operation - especially when the clock frequency of the processor coincides with the side frequencies that are present in abundance near any antenna.

Often, during renovations, many people think about installing a split system and plan the design of rooms to fit the size of the air conditioner. Indoor unit of this device it is necessary to place it in such a way that it is not only correctly positioned, but also looks most harmonious in the intended interior.

The purchase and selection of the air conditioner itself is often planned closer to the end of the repair, and the “power” needs to be supplied now. So, this article was written for such cases. In it we will look in detail at what distances need to be taken into account for subsequent installation, and we will identify the most universal sizes of indoor units (wall-mounted household devices).

First, we would like to immediately warn you that there are “non-standard” models of air conditioners that may have unique sizes and characteristics. And therefore this article should not be taken as 100% universal.

Air conditioner size. Split system indoor unit

Most often, living rooms have small area(up to 25 sq. m.) For such rooms, air conditioners up to 2.7 kW are suitable (not to be confused with power consumption) - they are usually called "sevens" or "nines". As a rule, “sevens” and “nines” (of the same model) have the same overall dimensions, as well as the same tube diameter. Therefore, further we will take into account the same dimensions and characteristics of the considered standard sizes.

Overall dimensions of the indoor unit, which interest us primarily

  • block length. The most standard length of internal blocks is 700-800 mm. Slightly less common are up to 900 mm. By personal experience It is best to take into account the average length of 770 mm.
  • block height. Most often these dimensions lie in the range of 250-290 mm. For planning, we will take into account 270 mm.

We are not very interested in depth (170-240 mm). Thus, we have identified the average size of the indoor unit 770 x 270 mm.

Distances from walls and ceiling


  1. Air conditioners “on/off”. We route the cable so that it is subsequently located under the indoor unit ( 300 mm to the left. and below by 100 mm. from the center of the block).
  2. Most