DIY cabin drawings. What to put the change house on. Personal experience

If you have become the happy owner of a summer cottage, but the construction of a house is still ahead, you need to take care of a small utility room - a change house. The change house is useful for storing tools, building materials, work clothes and just for relaxing after a hard day. working day. Of course, you can already purchase finished design and put it on the site, but building a cabin with your own hands will cost much less, and besides, a wise owner suburban area never misses an opportunity to gain useful experience and skills. In this article you will find step-by-step instructions for making cabins.

A change house is a utility room in the form of a small house where you can store all kinds of garden tools and construction supplies. But there are no clear rules for using a shed - you can turn it into a shed for storing unnecessary things or turn it into a cozy guest house. Depending on the future purpose of the cabin, the features of its construction also differ. So, if this is a tool shed, then there is no need to insulate it too thoroughly. And, on the contrary, if you plan to accommodate guests or relatives in the cabin, isolation and improvement should be approached in a special way.

In some cases, you can make it out of a change house small garage for garden equipment or motorcycle. With the onset of cold weather, many people move there poultry, bees or rabbits, placing the animals for the winter. However, regardless of how you use the change house, it will come in handy in any case.

Types of cabins

There are several design options for cabins depending on the construction technology. This, in turn, determines the cost of the work and performance characteristics building.

There are the following types of cabins:

To save time, you can purchase a used cabin, but in this case, pay attention to the degree of wear. Carefully inspect the structure outside and inside. Keep in mind that the cost of transportation and crane rental will be added to its cost. Before you decide to buy even an old cabin, add up all the amounts of upcoming costs and compare them with the cost of building materials - perhaps it will be cheaper and easier to build a cabin with your own hands.

Construction technology

Despite the fact that the change house is considered a secondary utility room, its construction should be approached responsibly. And the best place to start is with a drawing. The layout of the change house should include the dimensions of the walls, the area of ​​the roof, floor, insulating layers and points of attachment of elements. With the help of a sketch, you can imagine how the structure will look on the site and how it can fit into the landscape. Only after creating a detailed drawing of the cabin (or even several) can you calculate the required amount of materials (add 15% of the stock to the received amount) and go to the store.

If you plan to store gardening tools in the shed or Building tools, there is no need for windows there. In the event that it will serve as a guest house or summer kitchen, it is better to take care of a full natural light(will help save on electricity).

Speaking of electrification of cabins. Electrical wiring should also be shown on the drawing (preferably on a separate one). You will find more information on this topic in the articles and.

Where to put the change house?

When all the building materials have been purchased, you need to choose a place to install the change house. First of all, you should take into account the duration of use of the building and the possibility of moving it to another location if necessary. For example, if you are going to build a summer house for a couple of seasons, and then move it to another site or sell it. In this case, it is better to locate the change house closer to the entrance to the site or provide vehicle access to it.

It is also necessary to think through all options for using the structure. If gardening equipment and tools will be stored in the shed, it is better to place it closer to the center of the site and create Free access from all sides. If you make a bathhouse out of a change house, you can “hide” it in secluded corner garden behind the trees. The farther the cabin-sauna is from a residential building, the better in terms of fire safety.

If you plan to use the cabin as a greenhouse, it is better to choose the highest and sunniest place on the site. However, regardless of the purpose of the building, a site should be prepared for it.

How to install a change house:

1. The selected area must be cleared of weeds and any vegetation.
2. Next, you should remove the fertile layer of soil. Depending on the characteristics of the soil, the thickness of the turf can range from 15 to 30 cm.
3. Having leveled the site, you need to cover it with construction polyethylene (a film 200 microns thick is quite suitable). It is not recommended to use greenhouse film because it is not strong enough. The film layer should cover the entire area under the future cabin and extend to the edges by 20 cm on each side. Film is the simplest waterproofing for the foundation. You shouldn’t feel sorry for it, much less neglect this step, otherwise in 2-3 years you will notice signs of destruction of the foundation.
4. A mixture of river sand and crushed stone should be poured on top of the film in a layer of 20 cm. This will fix the waterproofing and at the same time level the surface.
5. To ensure that sedimentary water moves farther away from the cabin without hindrance and does not linger near it, you can make a slight slope around the building of 2 cm per meter.

Cabin foundation

A change house is not a very heavy structure, no matter what materials are used, so there is no point in pouring a powerful, expensive foundation under it. The best option is a columnar base. It's inexpensive, fast and quite simple. Plus, the columnar foundation leaves ventilation gap underground, which extends the life of the building.

Helpful advice: If you think that a cabin on such a foundation will not be warm enough, there is perfect solution– create formwork around the perimeter, pour the solution over the entire area to create a border 7-10 cm high. It is quite enough to properly insulate the floor. Use expanded clay as floor insulation.

In our case, concrete blocks are used as pillars, but they can be made of brick, reinforced concrete and other materials. You will find more information on this topic in the article.

Progress:

1. Install concrete pillar blocks in accordance with the shed plan.
2. Cover the top ends of the posts roll waterproofing(regular roofing material will do).
3. Using timber for the base and building level adjust the horizontal position of the pillars so that they are strictly in the same plane.

Cabin frame

As you already understand, we are building a frame shed, the base material for which was a timber with a cross-section of 100x150 mm. You can take a little thinner - 100x100 mm or 100x120 mm.

How to make a change house:

Roof of the cabin

How to make a roof for a shed:

The roofing material can be anything you like. In our case, this is ondulin - practical and inexpensive. If the change house is residential, the roof should be carefully insulated, since it is through it that most of the heat usually escapes. To do this, first attach a vapor barrier to the sheathing, then insulation, waterproofing film, and only after that - the finishing coating (corrugated sheeting, ondulin, metal tiles, etc.).

House windows and doors

As for windows and doors, they should be installed in the same way, focusing on the functionality of the structure. Even if you are going to store shovels and rakes in the shed, you should make at least one ventilation window for ventilation, otherwise mold will very quickly grow inside.

The location of windows and doors should be established at the time of design, so that during the construction of the frame, additional reinforcing racks can be installed in the openings. If you forgot to include them in the project, then you can organize the openings after the construction of the frame. During work, be sure to use a laser level or water level to avoid distortions.

Cabin floor

With an uninsulated floor in a change house, everything is clear - make a plank flooring and you're done. Another thing is to make the floor so that you can walk on it without shoes in winter and not be afraid of getting sick. To do this, you must first lay the subfloor, then the insulation and the finishing coating.

Expanded clay, vermiculite, polystyrene foam boards or mineral wool. To eliminate drafts from under the door, it is better to make a threshold at the entrance. It can be cut into the base beam itself or attached separately by nailing a strip.

How to build a floor in a shed:

Insulation and finishing

To make the change house warm and cozy, the walls need to be properly insulated. To do this, first cover the entire surface with thick plastic film– it will protect the interior from wind and moisture.

Then you can lay the insulation and cover it again with film for additional protection. In principle, this process is no different from insulating a roof or floor. For exterior wall cladding, you can choose siding or other weather-resistant material. The widest range allows you to choose an option exterior finishing, which will fit into any landscape.

The inside of the change house can be lined with clapboard or the interior can be made more comfortable by upholstering the walls. wood panels. All those finishing options that are used in ordinary residential premises are acceptable here: wallpaper, paint, plaster, tiles, etc.

As for household amenities (lighting, water supply, sewerage), they must be taken into account when creating a drawing. The articles “” and “” will help you understand these questions.

The construction of cabins in practice is not so difficult. And if you are planning to build a residential building with your own hands, then a change house will be an excellent training before a large-scale undertaking.

Change houses: photo

If you are the owner of a country house land plot, then you probably thought about arranging it in accordance with your own preferences. In order for a family or a team of workers to live in comfort during construction, a change house can be erected. It is a special type of temporary housing, which has the form small house with comfortable conditions.

Design

Construction of a cabin can take a certain amount of time, which is limited to a few days, and sometimes lasts up to several months. Everything will depend on the material used and the complexity of the project, as well as the availability of skills. If this house will be used for short term, that is, the opportunity to save on interior design. At the same time, you can refuse to have partitions by installing a minimum number of sockets.

It is possible to use cheap materials for cladding. If the change house is built for long-term use, then the project may include the presence of a bathroom.

The need for a foundation

A foundation is needed in any case; most often its role is played by a base of pillars, which are located in the corners and long sides. The distance between these elements should not appear to be more than 2.5 meters. Before laying the pillars, a gravel cushion is laid, which prevents plants and trees from breaking through. The construction site should be located on a hill, which will prevent flooding from rain and melt water. If this condition impossible, then storm drains should be installed.

Materials for making a change house

The construction of a change house can be carried out using different materials. For example, piles or pillars can be used to build a foundation. The farther the supporting elements are from each other, the more reliable the grillage should be.

There is no point in carrying out work on arranging an expensive foundation. The cabin will be based on a frame, which can be made of wood or metal. The use of metal corners and channels will allow you to create a change house that is ready for use. Sheathing can be done using lining, profile sheets, block house or siding.

Thermal insulation must be given special attention. To do this, you can purchase polystyrene foam, glass wool, and seal the seams construction foam. The floors are laid hydro- and thermal insulation materials. The inside walls are lined with clapboard, hardboard or special panels. If temporary operation is envisaged, edged boards can be used for this purpose.

Construction of the foundation

The construction of a cabin begins with the creation of a foundation. If the building is to be demolished in the future, then dismantling the columnar foundation will be quite simple. Quite often, cinder blocks are used, which can be purchased at low cost or made independently. It is necessary to remove construction debris from the surface of the earth and remove the fertile layer. The soil is compacted, covered with geotextiles, covered with sand and compacted again.

You can install blocks on the prepared base, placing them in the corners. Among other things, these elements must be 1.5 meters apart from each other around the perimeter. The blocks must be waterproofed using bitumen mastic or roofing felt. Then the wooden frame is fixed using an anchor method.

If you want to build a stationary type of cabin, then you need to pay more attention to the foundation. To do this, remove the fertile layer over the entire surface, lay geotextiles and sand five centimeters thick, after which everything is thoroughly compacted. To install the pillars, 50-centimeter holes are prepared, which should be located in the corners and along the perimeter every 1.5 meters. The holes are covered with geotextiles and then filled with 40 centimeters of sand.

It is best to carry out the construction of a change house with your own hands step by step; in seven days you can complete such work with outside help. On the first day, it is best to start arranging a brick foundation; the height of the base should be 30 centimeters. In this case, 10 cm will be hidden underground, and the remaining 20 will rise above the soil. Reinforcement is driven into the central part of the foundation, the height of which should be 1 meter. It is necessary to strengthen the lag. This indicates the need for an empty area in the center, which, after placing the rods, is filled with concrete.

Bottom harness

If you have certain skills, you can carry out construction (step by step). It is quite possible to carry out such work in seven days.

An important step is the formation of the lower trim. Can be used for fastening which is made. For fastening, holes are pre-drilled in the supports and metal. If it is intended to lay on piles wooden blocks, then the heads are covered with two layers of roofing material; it can be replaced with bitumen mastic. The above-mentioned wooden beams must have a certain cross-section, which is 100 millimeters.

Creating a wireframe

Home craftsmen quite often build a shed with their own hands. At the next stage, you can form the frame. The base of the building is formed from beams, which are located around the perimeter and are well reinforced. Afterwards, transverse and longitudinal logs are laid. To create the frame, you should prepare beams with a cross-section of 150 x 100 millimeters. The floor and support posts are made from this material. The latter should be located in the corners. A reliable connection is guaranteed by cuts in the joists, in which the beams are installed one into the other and reinforced with self-tapping screws. The logs must be placed on the reinforcement contours. To fix vertically located logs and attached to them, use self-tapping screws and corners.

Forming the roof frame

The construction of a change house with your own hands should be carried out step by step in several stages. At the next stage, the craftsman will have to form the roof frame. If we are talking about a single-pitch structure, then bars with a cross-section of 50 x 100 millimeters should be used. There are cuts in the load-bearing bars where the rafters are installed. Fastening is carried out with the same self-tapping screws. The rafters should extend 30 centimeters beyond the perimeter of the building. You can choose ondulin as a coating, which does not require the specialist to have special construction skills when carrying out installation work.

The roof structure must contain hydro- and vapor barrier layers, as well as insulation. When building a cabin with your own hands, it is recommended to consider the photo in advance. They will allow you to understand which design is best to choose for your site.

At the next stage, you can lay a sheathing of wooden blocks or boards on the rafters, since ondulin is enough lightweight material. Its sheets are laid overlapping, and it is necessary to advance from the bottom up. For this purpose, special fasteners are used, which are included in the kit.

Finishing work

The construction of a change house on the site involves the following stage: First, the craftsman will have to lay the subfloor, treating the boards with an antiseptic. Mineral wool must be laid between the layers of waterproofing. Then you should lay the finished floor. When you plan to use the change house for a long time, it is best to carry out interior decoration apply clapboard. If necessary, you can save money by purchasing OSB. To fix these materials, you should use self-tapping screws rather than nails. We should not forget about the presence of an insulating and vapor barrier layer.

If you are building a 6x3 change house with your own hands, then, as with the construction of a large building, you need to calculate the amount of material for finishing. On external walls you can strengthen, for example, a block house. And in order not to run to the store during the work, and also not to overpay, you should calculate the amount of material. To do this, the area of ​​all walls is determined, the numbers are added up, and the final result should be divided by the area of ​​one finishing board.

When construction is just beginning on your site, the question arises: how to create conditions for temporary living at the construction site? The best option is that you can build a cabin with your own hands for your dacha yourself. This step-by-step instruction will help you solve the problem.

For temporary residence on the site, the best option is a summer cottage, which you can assemble with your own hands.

Since construction often lasts at least one year, it becomes clear that you simply cannot do without the necessary housing that will allow you to rest, eat, sleep and shower, or store tools under lock and key.

How to build a change house with your own hands - photo instructions

In order for the change house to be reliable, its manufacture should be taken seriously. But how to build a change house with your own hands? This step-by-step instruction will help you. If you make it yourself or order from the manufacturer country house, which will be assembled according to the scheme described below, rest assured that it will serve you for a very long time. Even after the need to use it as housing disappears, you can use it as a utility room.

To make a change house you will need the following tools:

• Welding machine
• Hammer
• Bulgarian big and small
• Drill with roofing attachment and drill bits
• Paint brushes
• Screwdrivers
• Carpentry corner large and small
• Welding mask
• 6 meter tape measure
• Stapler
• Wood hacksaw

Before you start making a change house with your own hands, prepare all the necessary tools.

Consumables needed for production frame cabin with your own hands:

• Profile pipe 40x60, 40x40, 40x20, 20x20
• Galvanized or colored corrugated sheeting
• Insulation Isover 50-100 mm.
• Hydrobarrier
• Vapor barrier
• Mounting rail 20x40
• Smooth galvanized sheet (can be illiquid)
• Primer for metal
• Roofing screws 19mm, in the color of corrugated sheeting
• Flea screws
• Hardened wood self-tapping screws 35mm
• Rivets
• Metal bending elements for corrugated sheets
• Staples
• OSB board 10mm and 20mm thick.
• Metal-plastic window
• Polyurethane foam
• Electrical wire 2x2.5
• Sockets, switches and machines.
• Entrance door

Starting to manufacture a country frame cabin , I would like to determine a certain sequence of the process itself:

1. Frame making
2. Interior work
3. Waterproofing and insulation
4. Electrical installation
5. External cladding
6. Installation of doors and windows

Do-it-yourself frame for a change house

In this part of the article, I will tell you step by step how to make a frame for a construction or country metal shed yourself.

Structure base

The base of the frame for a change house should be the strongest and most reliable. Therefore, for its manufacture we choose a 40x60 mm profile pipe.

First, the pipe is marked and cut to the required dimensions, depending on the required dimensions of the future shed.

Then the pipe is welded according to its outer dimensions, and the so-called edging of our base is obtained, or in other words, a rectangle. There should be two such rectangles, and they should be absolutely identical in size. One of them will be used for making the floor, and the other for the upper part of the structure.

The base for the change house will be a 40x60 profile pipe; it will bear the heaviest load.

If we want the floor to be reliable and not “play” under our feet, then we need to thoroughly weld the “mesh” from the same profile pipe to get a strong solid base.

With a standard width of 2.5 meters, it is recommended to weld two or three more longitudinal pipes inside our rectangle along the entire length of the structure, and using the same method along the width every 0.5 meters. The end result should look like the image below.

Ready-made metal frame for the cabin floor, after primer treatment

Making the lower part of the cabin

To do this, we need a galvanized sheet, which must be screwed with small self-tapping screws, which are also popularly called “fleas”, to the base of the cabin. We straighten the sheet along the entire length of the rectangle we welded, level it and screw it on. After this, the base can be turned over and placed with the smooth sheet screwed down. Now everything is ready for the next stage.

We sheathe the bottom of the cabin frame with galvanization, and from the inside we turn it with a mounting rail for further finishing work.

Installation of vertical and horizontal racks

For vertical racks we will take a 40x40 profile pipe. We cut the pipe to the dimensions that must correspond to the required height of the structure. Typically this size is 2.5 meters.

We install the first racks at the corners of our finished base, and set them strictly at an angle of 90 0. To do this, use a carpenter's corner.

All vertical posts of the frame must be strictly at an angle of 90 degrees.

After the stand is installed level, it is welded until it can independently maintain its position. And so on in all four corners.

In order to install the following additional racks and save correct geometry design, take the second rectangle, which we made from a 40x60 pipe. It must be placed on top of the racks, which are welded in the corners. Using a level, make sure that all racks are strictly vertical, top and bottom are strictly horizontal, and at the pipe joints all angles match.

We connect all the components of the frame, set the corners evenly and grab them at all points of contact

Now our “cube” can be scalded with additional racks and spacers.

We take pre-prepared 40x40 pipes, cut 2.5 meters long, and weld them in a vertical position like corner posts. We recommend making the distance between the posts every meter. In this case, it is necessary to provide in advance a place for the entrance door.

It is very important to strengthen our frame with additional stiffeners.

After the vertical racks are in place, we begin installing the horizontal ones. There are much fewer horizontal posts. They are at a height of 1.25m. from the bottom point, and with them it is enough to scald the entire frame in a circle once.

We weld the frame with all the necessary horizontal jumpers

Now we need to strengthen the resulting frame of the cabin, which we make with our own hands. To do this, you need to cut 30 cm long pieces from a 20x40 pipe in advance, each edge should be cut at 45 0. With these spacers we scald each corner, and if there is a strong desire and availability of material, we additionally strengthen the floor. The photo below shows how each corner needs to be strengthened.

Correct reinforcement of all corners of the frame for a change house with gussets looks like this.

Transport loops for metal sheds

In order for the metal shed to be transported multiple times, it is necessary to make hinges. To do this we need a piece of profile pipe and a piece of steel rod. We weld them in the same way as in the photo below and weld them to the finished frame.

This is what a reinforced loop for transporting metal household items looks like.

Roof frame in the form of trusses

And so, the lower part and walls are ready. We begin to form the frame for the future roof of our country house.

If you do not plan to install a second floor on the future change house, then it would be logical to make a roof with a slope.

To make trusses you will need a 20x40 profile pipe. The task is to obtain an isosceles triangle. It is recommended to place such trusses every 1 m.p. each other along the entire length of the structure. An example of roofing trusses for a country house is shown in the photo below.

Preparation of components for the roof of a future cabin

Let's start with interior decoration

Interior finishing begins with the fact that the entire frame must be sheathed with a mounting rail measuring 20x40 from the inside. This is done so that it becomes possible to attach protective membrane films and the inner lining itself. In our case, let's take it as interior decoration.

Interior finishing - first of all, screw a wooden beam along the entire inside of the cabin

After the entire frame is covered with timber, the stage of waterproofing and vapor barrier of the structure begins.

To the screwed beam, we mount a vapor barrier with inside cabins

On the walls this happens by the usual method of stretching the film, which is cut into the required sizes and stapled to the lath.

When it comes to gender, things are a little different. It is necessary to repeat the mesh (squares) of the frame with film so that niches are created for laying insulation in them.

After the entire cabin is lined with film on the inside with your own hands, we begin installing the OSB.

First of all, we place a slab with a thickness of at least 20 mm on the floor and fasten it with hardened wood screws 35 mm long.

Before screwing the slab, lay it down and mark with a pencil the lines that will indicate to you where to be under the slab mounting rail. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the screw will not hit the rail. Don't skimp on screws, and tighten them as often as possible.

The next stage of making a change house with your own hands is the installation of interior decoration. In our case, OSB board. Pre-prepared windows can be inserted at the same time.

The ceiling and walls are sheathed in the same way. The only difference is the need to cut out window and door openings.

The next stage is electricity

If you plan to conduct electricity, then this must be done before insulating the walls, while there is access to all internal areas of the walls and ceiling.

Identify places like:

• Number of sockets
• Location of sockets
• Number of switches
• Switch locations
• Number of lamps and their location
• Possible location of heaters if needed
• Junction box location

When planning sockets, switches and lighting, mark their location on the walls with a pencil, and use these marks to make holes in the OSB board. Route the wire throughout the structure according to your diagram. Pull out the ends of the wire so that it would be convenient to work with them later.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a cabin

We lean the insulation against the OSB and fasten it to the slab with staples. The more often the better.

For insulation, as stated above, we will use ISOVER mineral wool 50 mm thick. If necessary, 100mm can be used.

We simply take the material, cut it to the required dimensions and insert it into each cell of the frame. At the same time, we immediately shoot it with a mounting stapler to the OSB board we previously installed. I recommend not saving on staples; perform this step efficiently.

External cladding with corrugated sheets

And so, after the electricity has been installed and the structure has been insulated, you can begin sheathing the walls on the outside with corrugated sheeting.

Corrugated sheeting is the most suitable material For external cladding cabins

When placing the first sheet of sheathing, attach it to the frame and align it as accurately as possible along the bottom and top. When you are sure that the sheet is positioned correctly, attach it to 2-3 self-tapping screws. After this, take a level and mark a line with a pencil along the entire width of the sheet (along the lower waves), where the contact between the corrugated sheet and the horizontal profile pipe will occur. This way, you will mark the sheet into which you will screw the screws strictly horizontally and will not miss the pipe.

Having bought a plot of land, you think about the fact that you need to live somewhere while building a house. Such a temporary abode at the dacha or garden plot is a change house. A small insulated structure, usually 3*6 or so in size. There are a lot of offers on the market: both wood and metal. But their quality is more than doubtful; the cheapest materials are used in construction. It’s easy to verify this by calculating the costs that you will incur if you decide to make a change house yourself. With the same dimensions, you most likely won’t be able to do it cheaper, and if there is a saving, it will be small. You will consider normal materials, and not the cheapest ones. But in terms of quality and durability, homemade cabins are many times superior to purchased ones.

The change house on the site is the first (or second after) structure that appears on the site

What and how are they built from?

Almost all cabins are built according to frame technology. As building materials for the frame, a wooden beam of at least 100 * 150 mm or profiled metal pipe 60*60*2 mm.

For cladding, the choice of materials is much wider. Use:

• edged board;
• sheet material - , ;
• profiled sheet;
• siding.

In any case, the cladding is done on both sides - outside and inside. The outside can be metal, but the inside is often made of either lining or stuffed with plywood or OSB.

Thermal insulation is laid between the two skins. Although the structure is temporary, spring and autumn, and sometimes summer nights, can be very cold. Therefore, without insulation there is no way. Any insulation can be used. Better - mineral wool, cheaper - polystyrene foam. The most best characteristics- extruded polystyrene foam, but also the highest price. Just when choosing insulation, keep in mind that foam plastic almost does not muffle sounds, so those who are particularly nervous will not be able to sleep. That's why optimal choice- mineral wool. What layer? If in mind, then in Middle lane Russia, preferably 100 mm, but at least 50 mm.

Please note that the floor also needs to be insulated. Especially the floor. There is a lot of pressure from below. Therefore, it must be double: first, rough, on top, across the board, logs are laid, insulation between them, and then the finished floor.

Layout and drawings

Despite the fact that the building is considered temporary, it often turns into a bathhouse or guest house. That’s why even in a change house there is such a thing as a layout. Even temporary housing should be relatively comfortable.

Cabin trailer

There are two main types of cabins: trailer and vest. In a “trailer” type building, the entrance is on the side, there is no separation inside; in extreme cases, a partition is installed - 1.5-2 meters from the entrance. This room is used as a vestibule-dressing room and a warehouse for storing instruments. This is the simplest possible option.

The drawings will contain graphic and digital symbols, their explanation is in the photo below.

Baby vest

The most popular layout is the vest. This is when the entrance is in the middle. Moreover, the middle is fenced off and used as a vestibule, storage room, etc. The purpose of the other two rooms may be different. Some people use both as bedrooms, others use one as a kitchen.

Change house with toilet and shower

Not everyone agrees, even at a construction site or at a dacha, even temporarily, to lead a Spartan lifestyle. At least basic amenities are required. Although it is probably better to build them separately.

The sanitary block is located on the edge - a wiser decision, especially if you make a separate entrance

With toilet

Having chosen a drawing, do not forget, when developing a frame for a change house, that racks must be installed at the junction of the walls. If doors are attached to the racks, they must be reinforced - double.

Foundation for a change house

Since the structure is temporary and light, the foundation is usually columns or blocks. More often - blocks. Preferably concrete, standard. No - you can use any construction materials, but they are high-density and not hollow.

They are placed on a prepared base. If the soils are normal, you can simply remove the turf and level the areas. For greater reliability, dig a small pit for each block about 20-25 cm deep. Medium-fraction crushed stone is poured into it and compacted well. Blocks are placed on such a substrate.

Note! The top edge must be level (be in one horizontal plane). It is also necessary to check the geometry of the foundation: the angles are strictly 90°, the diagonals are equal.

If the width of the cabin is no more than 2.5 m and wooden beams are used for the frame, blocks are placed in each corner, as well as under those places where the partitions extend. If the building is without partitions, the spacing - every 1.5-2 m - depends on the cross-section of the timber and the planned cladding, as well as the weight roofing material. With a width of 3 m or more, an intermediate beam and a base under it are required. In this case, three rows of blocks are obtained.

To prevent dampness from entering the premises, waterproofing is laid on the blocks. You can use two layers of roofing material, you can use another waterproofing material, even films. Another option is to coat it with bitumen mastic. At this point the foundation can be considered ready.

Step-by-step instructions: photo reports with explanations

It is difficult to understand some things from the description. No matter how much you read, you won’t understand until you do it, or at least watch how others do it. This is why photos of the construction of cabins are useful: you can look at how the units were made and find a solution for yourself. This is a kind of manual for those who decide to build on their own.

Construction of a wooden cabin

A cabin was built from wood at the dacha. Dimensions 3*6 m, insulated - for temporary residence during the construction of the house. The following materials were used:

Since prices for materials greatly depend on the region, there is no point in talking about the cost of construction. But from this list, you yourself can determine with fairly high accuracy how much a self-built shed will cost.

Please note that this list does not include roofing material (ondulin was planned) and there is no glass. Also, lining for interior decoration has not been purchased.

Before construction began, all wood, with the exception of the lining, was treated with Senezh Ultra antibacterial impregnation. Covered in two layers. So the quality of processing should be normal.

They marked out the area for the building. We decided to place the blocks on a sand bed. They dug holes 25-30 centimeters deep, poured sand, and compacted it. Blocks were placed. First we set up the two outermost ones, put a flat board on them, and a level on it. This is how the outer blocks were set up. Then the intermediate ones were adjusted to the height of the boards. So on all sides.

The next step was to lay the floor joists. They were placed every 50 cm, and we will also install the racks every other one. They were made from a 50*100 mm board placed on a narrow part.

We decided to immediately assemble the racks with rafters on the ground, strengthen the connections with corners, and then install them in finished form. They were assembled from the same 50*100 mm board.

We knock down the front pillar - it is longer, the rear one and the rafters

The posts were nailed down with long nails. Then, for reliability, all attachment points were reinforced with corners and plates. They were already mounted on self-tapping screws.

50*50 mm bars were nailed to the sides of the joists. The result was “nests” for laying polystyrene foam. He was placed on polyurethane foam: both hermetically and securely. A floor board was nailed on top.

Now comes the plating itself. On the short side there was a lining made of packs of 3 meters, on the long side they nailed six-meter ones.

Having completed the sheathing halfway, we laid the sheathing under the roofing. A 25*150 mm board was nailed in increments of 30 cm, with increments of 20 cm at the edges (so that the overhang could withstand). Then we continued with the paneling.

In the places where the windows will be located, they installed mortgages - a board that lies across the counter. The window frame will rest on it. They were fastened with nails all the way through, but the joints were additionally reinforced with corners.

When the back and blank side walls were sewn up almost to the top, roofing felt was rolled out onto the roof. It will lie there until we buy ondulin.

The outer skin is almost ready. The doors were bought without finishing - only the frame covered with fiberboard

While we were finishing nailing the clapboard outside, work was also in full swing inside - installing foam plastic. The width of the sheet is 100 cm, the distance between the posts is 95 cm. We have to cut thin strips.

To prevent it from “falling”, we grab it on top with thin corners, which we attach, of course, only to the beam of the rack.

We started lining the inside, but the lining ran out. For now we have switched to painting the outside. It turned out well, it seems.

We bought additional lining and finished the interior decoration.

We started making the partition. It was assembled from the same boards - 50*150 mm. The joints are traditionally reinforced with corners. They covered it with clapboard.

We started insulating the roof. They used the same foam and the same technology - they propped it up with corners.

The joints with wall insulation were foamed with polyurethane foam.

Then we started covering it with clapboard.

The ceiling trim is finished

Started installation roofing. We bought ondulin and laid it with overlap on one wave. They were attached to each wave with special hardware purchased along with ondulin.

Mounting ondulin on the roof of a garden shed

Then we started finishing it up interior spaces. The partition was also insulated with polystyrene foam and lined with clapboard on the other side.

This is how the wall looks in the final version

The lining inside is varnished on water based. It gives only a light tint of a little more dark color. There seems to be no film on the wood. If you look directly, it generally seems that the tree is not covered with anything. Only when viewed from the side at a certain angle is the shine visible.

On the floor, the varnish is already with a film: so that the wood does not wear out. Covered in two layers.

Then we started finishing the overhangs. They were sewn up with the same clapboard. In general, working with the clapboard took the most time.

And this is a side view

Metal frame for a change house

Metal was chosen as the basis as it is more reliable and durable. The thought that the change house might have to be moved also played a role. If the frame is made of metal, she will not be in any danger.

The dimensions were determined based on the length of the corner rods: 11.7 m. following sizes: 2.8 * 5.8 m, height - 2.5 m. The frame is welded from a corner with a 75 mm shelf, 6 mm thick.

The foundation is made on pillars cast independently: construction began in the fall, and there’s still nothing more to be done. So it was decided to fill in reinforced columns: six pieces. First, the area was marked, after which the locations for the foundation columns were determined.

Holes were dug 50*50 cm, total depth about 30 cm. Crushed stone was poured onto the bottom in a layer of about 10-15 cm and compacted tightly. There is the same amount of sand on top, also with a tamper. As a result, the bedding came to the same level as the ground.

Roofing felt is laid at the bottom so that moisture does not escape from the concrete, and it “ripes” normally and does not dry out. Next, the formwork was assembled and the reinforcement was laid in it.

The area is dry, the water drains normally, so there should be no problems. , so it’s not clear whether the reinforcement is welded or twisted.

Everything is filled with concrete, covered with film: the end of October, and in order for the concrete to be of normal strength, it needs to be wrapped.

The frame frame took a long time to cook - all winter: frosts and workload did not allow it to operate with the required frequency. The base was made from a 75 mm corner, 6 mm thick, and 40*2 mm was used for reinforcement.

The beginning of the cabin frame from metal corner- lower harness

The side parts were cooked entirely, then with the help of 4 people they were placed in a vertical position and fixed in this way. Profiled pipes 40*40*2 mm were used on the racks to which the window and door frames would be attached.

The most inconvenient moment is measuring diagonals alone. You have to constantly monitor them, but doing it alone is inconvenient. But it is necessary to set everything, otherwise there will be a distortion.

To give greater rigidity, I welded strips of metal in the corners. I got them by loosening the corner (40 mm). It was possible to buy an additional strip, but I used cuttings of a corner.

Strips for rigidity in the corners of the frame

View from inside the corner

It was difficult when we were installing the frames: in the cold we only wore thick gloves, and it was difficult to hold them firmly. That’s why they propped it up with boards and whatever they could. But the angle was strictly maintained.

To ensure a rigid attachment to the frame, metal plates are welded at an angle.

The entire frame was gradually assembled.

We finish cooking the plates in the corners: top and bottom

We weld several beams at the top. Now the frame for the change house is “iron”

Now all that remains is the casing. It can be anything: even the same lining, block house, or an economical option - plywood and OSB. To attach the bleach to the corner, it is more convenient to screw the beam, and then attach the sheathing and everything else to it. The same situation applies to the rafter system: a block is screwed around the perimeter with self-tapping screws and pre-aligned, and the rafters are attached to it.

Video on the topic

Having acquired summer cottage plot, the first thing you should tackle is a do-it-yourself change house. Why a change house and why your own? Because the complete arrangement of a dacha will take more than one day or even more than one season, and no one can stand spending the night and hiding from the rain in a car for that long. A tent is also not an option: where to wash and cook food in bad weather? And with their own - because the prices for ready-made country cabins are by no means low and their durability often does not exceed 5-6 months. At the same time, in a small room for temporary short-term stay and household needs (which is a change house) there is nothing that a person with absolutely no construction experience could not do on his own. During the construction process, it is acquired, which will be useful when building a house, and other things that are necessary for a good rest in the country. AND A properly built shed will then serve for a long time, being very useful on the farm.

Change houses are sometimes called temporary buildings, meaning that they are removed when no longer needed. This idea was formed under the influence of people engaged in field work, especially builders. There, indeed, upon completion of the project, all temporary trailers are dismantled or taken away. The same builders were the first to think of building a change house in the country. During the Khrushchev dacha boom, they were also given land, and they took on a quick fix build something like your own locker rooms, warming rooms, foreman's rooms, etc. At that time, building materials for ordinary citizens in wide sale there was no, and the construction was good country house could drag on for years with the full skill and ardent desire of the happy new owner of the site.

Since it was supposed to use the change house for a long time, people soon developed inexpensive designs that required a small amount of materials, but were comfortable and durable. It was a pity to break them later, and in the cabins they initially began to place a utility block in a dacha type 3 in 1: a bedroom-shelter, a storage room/warehouse, a toilet with a shower. In this form, the country house has survived to this day, only externally it has been improved, see Fig: building materials have become more accessible, and demands for aesthetics and quality of life are higher.

The meaning of the change house

The household pioneers of the past often still had to dismantle their creations due to the same shortage of materials, if there were not enough of them for the house. But the modern summer resident immediately builds his change house for a long time. The current country house is designed to perform the following functions:

• Residential, while the site is being developed. In the future, the shelter room will be converted into a bathhouse, warehouse finished products, sparrowhawk-rabbit, utility room at the greenhouse, etc.
• The utility room is like a shed for household property and gardening equipment.
• Sanitary and hygienic facilities such as a locker room, a bathroom, a storage room for work clothes and shoes, summer cuisine.
• Aesthetic - with the goal of removing all the unsightly aspects of country life out of sight.

The point of this approach, firstly, is that the very concepts of the purpose of the dacha have changed. The current summer resident definitely wants to have a recreation area with a pergola on the site, decorative pond or, a flower garden, rock garden, barbecue, etc., even if the dacha is commercial and the family lives on the income from it. Therefore, a change house with a utility block and a greenhouse/greenhouse are placed in the backyard, and a recreation area is arranged in front of a beautiful country house, see fig. on right. The robe and shoe covers are left where they worked; to relax or receive guests, they walk along the paved path already clean, without carrying clods of earth from the beds.

Secondly, country house essentially a bedroom and living room. In the heat, you want to be cool in it, but to prevent the air conditioner (which can simply be stolen during the winter) from ruining the budget, an expensive and complex permanent structure with low heat loss and tightly closed windows/doors are required. But who wants to sit locked up in a dacha and make sure that the whole company doesn’t leave the door wide open behind them? What kind of vacation will this be? It’s easier to put blinds on the windows or hang awnings - and let the room be ventilated.

In this case, a kitchen, shower and toilet in the house will not add coziness and comfort. It will also be more pleasant for the housewife to cook on fresh air, and not stuffy; suddenly there is bad weather, you need to do your cooking under the roof, without bothering anyone and so that you don’t crowd around and make noise. In addition, the installation of a toilet is a very complex problem. The point here is: the sanitation requirements for the distance from water sources and residential buildings also apply to neighbors, plus it is necessary to ensure the possibility of access to a sanitary facility. And if you cooperate with the same neighbors, then the septic tank common to 4 adjacent plots becomes “like a native” at the junction of their borders; pumping is required less often, and may not be needed at all for years. And there is no need to destroy the earth by laying pipes from the house to the septic tank, which is expensive.

Next, you need hot water for the shower and kitchen. Installing a boiler or stove with a water heater in a house is again inconvenient; building a house with a chimney according to the requirements of the fire safety regulations is again difficult and expensive, but a stove fits into a change house much easier, because This premises is not residential. Finally, we live in the 21st century - in the summer electricity for a refrigerator with an electric stove can provide solar battery, A hot water – a solar panel. Current prices for them are quite affordable, and some designs can be made with your own hands. But they will not add aesthetics to the house, but flat roof they will stand up the cabins “as they were there” and will not be an eyesore to anyone.

In general, everything suggests that you can and should build a summer cottage with your own hands for long-term use, but without the prohibitive costs and without construction experience. Is it possible? Yes, this article is intended to help in such a case.

Build or install?

The first thing that comes to mind is: wouldn’t it be easier to put a storage unit from a shipping container on a simple gravel bed? There seems to be minimal work. No, not the minimum - you’ll be so busy over the openings alone that you could even build a house. Ready-made cabins from containers different classes It is on sale, see picture, but the prices are very high.

The reason is a lot of unnecessary metal for household use. No one will sell containerized cabins for less than what they cost as scrap metal, and there is a lot of iron in the container. However, we will still remember about metal cabins; in certain circumstances this may turn out to be a good option. But in most cases, especially for beginners, a wooden change house turns out to be simpler and more profitable, so we will mainly deal with them.

What to build?

First, let's decide on the sizes. The smallest shelter cabin, combined with a storage room, has internal dimensions of approximately 2.5 x 3.5 m. A “2 in 1” cabin, with a warehouse separated from the living room by a partition, and a nook for the kitchen, will already be 3x4.5 m; We will talk about this in more detail below.

In both cases, you also need a small bathroom nearby in the yard; one of its long-known designs is shown in Fig. on right. It uses peat toilet, or powder-closet. These days, a dry toilet would be more hygienic. Of the purchased ones for a dacha, a bio-toilet-bucket with replaceable absorbent cartridges is better suited, but you can make a bio-toilet yourself, see, for example. video below. However, .

Video: dry toilet in a change house

It is possible to put together a “3 in 1” or even a “4 in 1”, including a bathhouse, in a cabin measuring from 3x6 m, and at the same time it can easily be placed on a plot of 6 acres. Problems are caused by the layout, how best to plan a 3x6 m change house, we’ll talk further.

What about the kitchen?

For a summer weekend cottage, there is no particular point in building a shed with a kitchen block: a summer kitchen fits perfectly under a canopy, see fig. on right. If they go to the dacha, or live there, from spring to autumn, then they need a 3-in-1 change house with space for a kitchen and a stove for heating. An alternative is an electrified cabin; then they cook on an electric stove, but at the start dacha arrangement This is a rare case.

Veranda: immediately or later?

Change house with a veranda on summer cottage beneficial in many respects, if only because it can be used to equip a wind-protected kitchen and/or store household equipment, freeing up living space in the shelter. But a beginner does not need to immediately plan the construction of a cabin with a veranda: it will not be possible to get a sufficiently reliable and durable building without construction experience. It is better for a novice builder to build a simple “box”, and then add a veranda, which has no power connections with the main structure. The problem of connecting the foundations of the cabin and the veranda in this case disappears, because both are columnar, not buried, on a common anti-heave cushion. We’ll talk about what this all means later, but for now, just in case, see Fig. drawing of a minimum-sized shelter cabin with an attached veranda. It is being built using frame technology, and it’s time to get serious about it and the others.

How to build?

Shields

The simplest way to build a shed is a prefabricated one. The frames of the boards are assembled on the ground, then knocked into a box, on the left in Fig. A simple floor is laid in it, the walls are sheathed with anything: OSB, chipboard, plywood, etc. Then they install doors and windows (on the right in the figure), lay the roof - and you're done! For 1 season or less: a box made of panels is not a frame, there are no separate load-bearing elements in it, and under load the structure warps or even collapses even before the cold weather. A panel change house can only be built as a changing room-shelter and only if it is known for sure that the construction of the house will be completed before the fall.

SIP

However, the method of panel assembly of prefabricated, fairly reliable and durable buildings, incl. residential buildings, available for DIY construction, exists. This is an assembly of SIP panels (structural insulated panel, SIP, Structural Insulated Panel). A SIP change house will cost more than the frame one described below, but its construction will give you the experience that may be needed if you decide to build a year-round cottage or Vacation home from SIP, the technology in both cases is the same. Enough has been written about construction from SIP in RuNet, but for more details about the panels themselves, see the video:

Video: review of SIP panels

Watch out for shields!

Many of the ready-made cabins available for sale are panel houses, with all that it implies. If you decide to purchase a ready-made change house, you can weed out suspicious ones based on the following criteria:

• Good-quality cabins of any design, as a rule, do not have linings on the outer wall cladding, pos. 1 in Fig. on the right, in contrast to the flimsy panel boards, pos. 2 and 3. These boards are stuffed onto the joints of the boards so that the product can withstand transportation.

• For the same purpose, the corners and openings of shoddy cabins are reinforced with temporary rough overlays, pos. 3. Good quality cabins can withstand transportation without strengthening the corners, and windows with glass are supplied in separate packaging. This trick doesn’t work with hackwork: when transported with empty openings, the booth is already warped so much that the windows won’t fit into place.

Frame as a basis

A strong rigid frame takes on operational loads. For such simple structure, as a change house, it also turns out to be inexpensive and little labor intensive. Frame cabins are built either “from the cage”, on the left in Fig. – the floor is laid in already assembled frame– or a “cage” of force connections is assembled on a solid foundation, on the right there. The latter requires somewhat more labor and materials, but less skill, so further we will dwell on this method in more detail.

Beam and log

Log and timber cabins look luxurious, see fig. on the right, but in terms of cost and labor intensity they are not inferior to a house bigger size, and are built using the same technology. They are rarely built, mainly if in the future it is planned to convert the change house into a bathhouse; frame buildings are not suitable for this. In this case, the change house is immediately built on the site of the bathhouse and equipped with a drain according to all the rules, and the stove, shower, and bathhouse equipment are purchased and installed when the house is ready.

Metal+

If you know how to do plumbing and handle a welding machine, then perhaps it will be easier for you to assemble a change house in a metal frame. In this case, firstly, there is no need for a foundation - the structure will simply stand reliably on concrete blocks, placed at the corners. Secondly, suddenly the change house is not needed, it can be sold without any problems at a profit.

The basis for a change house in a metal frame is the power circuit of the container, on the left in Fig. below, only for frames and corner posts for the sake of economy, 80x80x(3-4) mm corrugated pipes will be used. The upper and lower battens are made from a paired corner 60x60 mm or a brand of the appropriate size. The floor is laid as described below for a frame cabin, and placed in the walls. wooden frames with openings for windows and doors and, possibly, with insulation, in the center in Fig; For frame designs, also see below. Typically, cabins of this type are sheathed on the outside with corrugated sheets, as shown on the right in the figure, but this design allows you to make any type of sheathing, gable roof and give the building a complete wooden look while maintaining metallic strength.

We are building a frame shed

So, we came to the conclusion that our change house will be wooden frame. Step-by-step instruction construction of a frame change house 3x4.5 m has been wandering around the RuNet for a long time. Initially, it seems to have been compiled quite sensibly, but with repeated rewriting, errors and arbitrary abbreviations crept into the text. Following such instructions, a novice builder will find himself at a dead end during the work process or, acting according to his own understanding, will end up with a crooked and fragile structure. Unfortunately, the original text seems to be completely lost, so we will have to turn to the available sources, but with explanations and notes.

The first of them: it’s impossible to build a change house “in 2-3 days.” Working from dawn to dusk without smoking breaks and carefully, avoiding mistakes, construction will take half a vacation in a row or 1-1.5 months, if you work on weekends. The last option is preferable, because It’s better to spend your vacation on a house and landscaping. In general, the first country summer will be anything but boring.

About impregnation

During the work process, all wooden parts must be impregnated with biocides (antiseptics) and water repellents (water-repellent compounds) before being installed in place. For household use, used motor oil is suitable as both. It is also highly advisable to treat the crown, bottom trim, floor joists and subfloor boards, see below, with bitumen mastic (40% bitumen and 60% white spirit or solvent). They impregnate not blanks, but parts already cut to size, with all the recesses, grooves, etc.

Foundation and base

In fact, any foundation is laid according to the so-called. worn out, but in this case, because the building is small, the work can be simplified if the site for the cabin is not too “humpbacked”. The basis of the change house is built in the sequence according to Fig:

• Lay columnar shallow foundation, pos. 1.
• A common support frame is assembled on it from timber 150x100 mm, the so-called. lower crown or, for frame structure, just a crown, pos. 2-4.
• The lower supporting frame of the frame, or lower frame, with floor joists, pos. 5.

The choice of foundation type is clear: for such a small and light structure any other will be unnecessarily complex and expensive. About the design and laying of columnar foundations, here we will dwell on the features specifically for this type of construction, which a beginner needs to know.

The pit for the foundation is dug with a grip (removal) of 0.5 m along the perimeter beyond the contour of the building. Remove humus; if the thickness of the fertile layer exceeds 30 cm, dig with a shovel. Otherwise, pits are dug under the pillars with a bayonet, i.e. up to 30 cm deep. Next, the pit is covered with geotextiles (so that the backfill does not spread) and first a sand cushion of 10 cm is poured, on thick humus, or in the holes under the pillars. Having placed the pillars, the pillow is filled to the ground level; its purpose is, together with anchors (see below), to counteract the forces of frost heaving. The sand bedding is compacted twice, before and after installing the pillars.

The installation step of the pillars is within 1.2-1.7 m, so that a whole number of spans between them are laid on the sides of the building; for cabins 3x4.5 and 3x6, the step is 1.5 m. When digging holes for pillars, you need to take into account that the contour of the foundation should protrude beyond the contour of the building by 10-20 cm. All operational loads “flow” into the lower corners of the frame; if it lies flush on the pillars from the outside, then it will be difficult for them to “spread” in the pillar, and the building may slide to the side.

Putting brick pillars, as recommended in the sources, should not be done in any case: the best working brick in the ground will begin to crumble in a maximum of 3-5 years, dry-molded facing brick - in the very first winter, and durable high-burnt clinker will cost more than special concrete foundation blocks 200x200x400 mm. There will be 4 blocks per pillar, laid on cement-sand mortar crosswise in pairs; for more details see about columnar foundations. Thus, the pillar will turn out to be a cube of 400x400x400 mm, of which 200 will be in the ground (30 cm bayonet minus 10 cm cushion), and 10 cm from the outside will be taken out. For a change house 3x4.5 m, the dimensions of the foundation along the contour will thus be 3.2x4.7 m, and the dimensions of the pit in plan will be from 4.2x5.7 m.

Now let's look again at pos. 1. See? The pillars of the middle row are narrow, each made of a couple of blocks. This is actually wrong even for places with mild winters; all pillars should be the same. Not that expensive foundation blocks in order to save on them in the most important part of the structure.

The posts are first laid dry and leveled horizontally with a hose gyro level; adjust the height by adding sand under the low pillars. The rectangle is drawn by measuring the diagonals and sides. You cannot rely only on the equality of the diagonals; instead of a rectangle, you may end up with an isosceles trapezoid! Having aligned the pillars, the upper pairs of blocks are removed and placed back on the mortar.

Next, prepare the base (short) beam of the crown, try it on in place and lay it perpendicular to the long axis of the building, pos. 2. Trying on it, cut the remaining bars 150x100 to size; the crown is assembled flat, i.e. The 150 mm side is oriented horizontally, pos. 3. All connections are half-tree. Don't forget about impregnation! After fitting, the beams are removed, the pillars are covered with 2 layers of roofing material (this is waterproofing against the so-called capillary soaking of wood), the beams are put back and, after checking the crown with diagonals and side measurements, the joints of the beams are sewn together with 80 mm nails, a pair diagonally in each joint, pos. 4. At this stage, the foundation is strengthened with anchors.

Anchors

Foundation anchors are the same “steel bars from 1 m” from the descriptions that seem to need to be walled up in pillars. In fact, it is easier and more reliable to fix a change house, the pressure from which the ground is like pellets to an elephant, with L-shaped crutch anchors driven into the ground, pos. And in Fig. to this paragraph. Crutches are made from corrugated 16-mm reinforcement. Their lower ends are sharpened so that they go into the ground easier and, most importantly, more evenly.

The anchors are hammered in from the inside, a 20x20 mm groove is made in the crown beam under each crutch bar: they are filed along the edges and removed with a chisel. Don’t overdo the cuts; there’s no point in loosening the crown too much! The anchors are driven in according to the diagram, pos. B and C for cabins 3x4.5 and 3x6, respectively, in 2 steps: first they do not finish off 10-15 mm, and then, after measuring again and trimming the crown, if necessary, they finish it tightly according to the same schemes; preferably with 1 hit with a sledgehammer. Additive in Fig. we will need more information about corner nails below.

The next stage is the application of the lower trim to the crown and installation of the floor joists, item 5 in Fig. with a base device. The harness is made in the same way as the crown, but from 100x100 mm timber. Assemble flush with the outer edge of the crown; Thus, a 50 mm step is formed inside, on which the logs will lie. After application, the frame of the harness is fastened along the insets with 80 mm nails, also like a crown, and sewn to the crown with 150 mm nails, as shown in Fig. with anchor layout diagrams.

The logs are made from 100x50 timber or 100x40 boards; they are cut into the framing timber by a quarter or a third, i.e. The mustache of the logs will be 25 or 30 mm high. The installation pitch of the logs is 400-700 mm. It is chosen so that the spans between the lags are the same width. If the finished floor is made of a simple edged board, it is better to stick closer to a smaller value, and if it is to be tongue-and-groove, then the lag pitch can be increased. In any case, it is advisable to take it in multiples of 150 mm, this will greatly simplify and save the flooring, see below. Each lag is nailed to the frame with 2 80 mm nails, one nail at a time, and in the center to the crown with a 150 mm nail, for a total of 3 nails per lag.

Underground

At the same stage, it is desirable, and for a change house “from spring to autumn” that is heated at least for a short time, it is necessary to insulate the subfloor, otherwise the floor will become damp. To do this, the openings between the foundation pillars are filled with something ( rubble stone, brick break, paving slabs), insert into pos. 5 in Fig. with a base, on a cement-sand mortar, and the subfloor is covered with expanded clay. Careless builders often simply lean scraps of corrugated sheets or broken slate on the outside, pressing them into the sand, and sprinkle the outside with soil. You can also foam it if you don’t mind the foam.

There are some subtleties here. Firstly, the purpose of filling the openings is only to keep the expanded clay from spreading, but to cover them sheet material You can’t do it from the inside: the subfloor must be ventilated, otherwise it will turn into a condensate collector. Therefore, in each span you need to leave either vents, a pair of about 4x6 cm per span (convenient if filled with rubble or broken bricks), or a gap at the top of 4-6 cm. If the spans foam, you need to insert pipe scraps under the vents in advance.

Secondly, the openings need to be filled from the inside so that the filling does not stick out. Then later, when you get the hang of it and the structure settles, you can make a real beautiful base.

Frame

The first to install the corner posts of the frame are made of 100x100 timber, reinforced with temporary struts (item 1 in the figure), on steel corners and self-tapping screws (5-8) x (60-70) mm, pos. 2. The screws are tightened tightly after the stand is plumb and supported with jibs. The height of the rear pillars is approximately 2.2-2.4 m; can be taken from the mini cabin drawing, see above. The front ones, with a building width of 3 m, are taken 0.5 m longer. If you calculate the dimensions of the racks yourself, keep in mind that the maximum slope of a slate or ondulin roof is 14 degrees, and the optimal one is 7-9 degrees.

Next, the longitudinal upper side beams of the box are placed (in this case there is no need to talk about a solid upper frame in the form of a supporting frame), attaching them from the bottom with corners, as at the bottom, and the transverse beams are cut into half the tree. The crossbars are fastened with 80 mm nails, a pair diagonally in each insert. After this, install the intermediate posts and the corresponding upper cross members, pos. 3.

At this stage, construction can be somewhat simplified and cheaper. At pos. 3 you can see that the intermediate racks are also made of 100x100 timber, but for a small change house this is unnecessary; 100x50 beams or 100x40 boards, the same as for logs, will be used for the intermediate racks. They are placed across the strapping bars. To ensure that the structure does not lose strength, it is necessary to perform following conditions, see fig. on right:

1. The spans adjacent to the corners should all be the same width.
2. Corner spans and those adjacent to window/door openings must be reinforced with jibs made from the same board.
3. If the corner/adjacent span is 300mm or less, this situation should be avoided by placing doors/windows at a sufficient distance from the corners.

Now you need to replace the temporary jibs with permanent ones, from the same 100x40 board, and install the rafters, pos. 4. There, by the way, it is clear that the builders made a mistake: one of the corner spans is empty, although nothing prevents us from reinforcing it. Strut boards are also placed across the beams; fasten with 80 mm nails, a pair at each end. Installation follows door jambs(you can immediately with the door leaf) and window frames, pos. 5. The installation of the box is completed by fastening the bottom chord to the crown using 150 mm nails with a pitch of 200-250 mm.

Rafters

How the rafters are cut in and installed is shown in Fig. The installation pitch of the rafters is approximately 0.5 m. Additional hangers are made from scraps of boards. In this design they are highly desirable, because It is not possible to firmly attach each rafter to the beams of the upper chord. The overhang of the rafters is approximately 30 cm; The side overhang of the sheathing under the roof will be the same. If the cabin is constantly in the wind (say, in the forest), then you can do without rafter hangers.

Perhaps sad pitched roof will not suit you. In such a case, in Fig. Below are diagrams of roof trusses suitable for a country house and, of course, a change house. The designs outlined in green are good because they are simple, economical and allow you to reduce the height of the corner posts to 1.9 m while maintaining a sufficient height of the cabin ceiling.

Roof

After assembling the frame, the roof is covered so that rain does not wet the unfinished floor. Its sheathing under a slate roof is assembled at intervals (on the left in the figure), and under an ondulin roof it is continuous, because ondulin is a soft material. Working with it, of course, is easier than carrying heavy, fragile slate sheets, but slate roofing it turns out much cheaper and more reliable.

How slate roofing sheets are laid and secured is clear from Fig. below, but when purchasing it you need to take into account some circumstances. First, most often there are 6, 7 and 8 wave slates on sale. 6-wave sheets are lighter, but the price per square of roofing from them will be significantly higher than from 8-wave sheets. So, if you have little money and are not afraid of work, take the 8-wave.

Secondly, slate sheets are produced in different pitches, wave heights and thicknesses. If you take a used one or anything random, it may turn out that the sheets do not fit together. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to pay attention to the markings; there is always a set of 1, 2, 3 and 4-digit numbers, for example. SHEET 40/150 – 1750 – 8 or 6-GOST 40/194/1750. 8 or 6 then will be the number of waves, 40 is the height of the wave, 194 or 150 is its step, and 1750 is the height of the sheet, this is its standard value. If there is a smaller 4-digit number, then this is the width of the sheet.

Floor

The floor of the change house consists of 2 floorings, the lower rough and the upper finishing, with heat, hydro and vapor barriers between them. Nothing can be simplified here, otherwise the room will turn out damp, uncomfortable and will soon rot. In addition, the crown with the strapping and plank flooring form a rigid box, without which the entire base will be fragile. So you need to approach the flooring with the utmost care and attention.

How the subfloor is constructed can be seen from Fig. The skull block is placed along the entire contour of the openings between the lags; “nail” with 70 mm nails in increments of 100-120 mm. It is needed to include the flooring boards in the power circuit. For the subfloor only use a 150x(30-40) mm tongue and groove board! You can still save on finishing flooring by making it from a simple edged board, but the “sub-floor” floor is laid only with tongue and groove! The sequence of flooring operations is as follows:

• Boards are placed along the openings between the joists.
• From the first board, in order of installation, the tongue groove is cut off.
• The next boards, up to and including the penultimate one, are placed by pushing the groove tightly onto the ridge of the previous one.
• The last board is cut to size along the width from the ridge side, i.e. cut off the comb with part of the face.
• They place it obliquely so that the groove fits the ridge of the previous one, and forcefully press it into place; You may have to tap it with a mallet.
• The boards of the finished flooring cell are nailed to the skull beam with 70 mm nails in increments of about 100 mm, and with a pair of nails in the middle of each to the middle beam of the crown. The distance of the nails from the edges of the longitudinal boards is no less than its thickness, i.e. 40 mm. It is also advisable to maintain it for the cranial beam, driving the nails in obliquely.

When the rough flooring is ready, pos. 1 on next Fig., its cells are covered with glassine or its analogues, this is a vapor barrier. You cannot save money by insulating the bottom with polyethylene, because... it allows both vapor and moisture to pass through. Glassine is sewn to the joists construction stapler or nailed with small nails, placing pieces of plywood under their heads. In any case, you can’t sew/nail it to the flooring - what kind of insulation will it be, with holes at the bottom?

Now it’s time to insulate the floor. Let us remind you once again that it is also necessary in the summer shed so that it does not get damp. You won’t store it in a heated room in winter, will you? Insulate mineral wool pos. 3, but you need to take mats from long-fiber mats suitable for residential buildings. Short-fiber mineral wool will constantly accumulate dust with microneedles, which are very harmful to health!

Next, the floor is covered with a continuous sheet, or with overlapping sheets of 15 cm, with plastic film, pos. 4. Now the semi-permeability of polyethylene will be just right: the condensate that did get into the floor will evaporate through it, without having time to cause rotting, and the liquid spilled on the floor will also evaporate or drain before seeping into the insulation.

The last “floor” operation is finishing flooring. It is also advisable to make it from tongue and groove, but, as already said, a simple clean-edged board 150x40 mm will also work. “Clean” boards are laid across the joists, i.e. perpendicular to the “black” ones, pos. 5. The finishing flooring is carried out “solidly”, from edge to edge of the frame of the lower trim. Do the so-called. a floating floor, as in a residential building, is not allowed in a change house for reasons of structural strength.

In places where the flooring boards fit on the frame posts, grooves of 50x100 are chosen in the boards, and corners of 100x100 are chosen for the corner posts, so you cannot take a 100-mm board onto a clean floor; the corners of the flooring will come out hanging. “Clean” boards are nailed in the corners with pairs of 70 mm nails diagonally (into the edge of the board and in its corner), and at other intersections with beams and joists - in pairs of the same nails across the board.

Sheathing

The outer sheathing gives the final strength to the structure, so it is also made from boards, and siding, etc., whatever you want later, is sheathed on top of it. They are sheathed either with tongue and groove or a quarter board, so that the water flowing down the walls does not seep inside, i.e. up with the ridge of the tongue or the inner quarter, see fig. on right. If no further external finishing is expected, then it can be sheathed with an edged board in a herringbone pattern. They are sheathed from top to bottom, including the lower belts of the base. Before covering, glassine is stapled to the frame, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. Now you can install windows; before installing the slot platbands in them and doorways foam, pos. 3.

As for internal lining, then here - as God wishes: plywood 4-8 mm, OSB, chipboard, laminate, etc., with or without insulation, pos. 4 and 5. At the same stage, corrugations are laid in the walls with cables pulled into them, if the change house will be electrified.

Insulation, if necessary, is the same as for the floor. It is advisable to cover the corners with baseboards. In Khrushchev's times, they often did without any interior decoration at all, there simply were no materials. Now it’s easier with them, no matter who is nostalgic for those times.

Partitions

The frames of the partitions, if any, are assembled according to a pattern similar to the sidewalls of the frame, see Fig. on the right, only from slats 40x40 mm. The jibs are placed only in the outer cells. Internal doors Often it is necessary to place it close to the wall, then an additional rail is placed in the cell with the doorway (shown by the arrow), without it the door in the platband will not fit into place. The partition frames are put in place, nailed with 70 mm nails in increments of 200-250 mm directly to the walls, and sheathed with the same material as interior walls. The corners are reinforced with plinths along the entire contour.

For reference

Blade width entrance doors– 800-1100 mm, interior 750-850 for residential and 600-750 mm for utility rooms, utility rooms and bathrooms. The maximum sash width of a single-leaf window is 900 mm; preferably 600-650 mm. A sash width of 400 mm is considered the minimum, but it can be made narrower. Door height – 1900-2100 mm; windows – 600-1300 mm. The height of the window sill above the floor is 750-850 mm.

More angles

Remember how we installed the corner posts of the frame: on steel corners. Perhaps you already noticed that the outer, most loaded corners of the frame from the point of view of construction mechanics are hanging, i.e. weakened. Therefore, it seems that the change house in Fig. is quite ready. in fact, it is not yet ready to take on everything that fate and the weather have in store for it, its outer corners need to be reinforced with overhead boards.

How this is done can be seen in Fig. on the left: the corners are sheathed in pairs of boards from top to bottom. Scheme for driving nails (150 mm): 1 at a time into the crown and bottom trim, then in a row with a step of 200-300 mm to the racks, then 1 at a time into the upper horizontal beams. First, boards are nailed along the short sides of the building flush with the edge of the corner, and then on the long sides to cover the ends of the adjacent ones.

About shutters

The fact that it is highly desirable to equip the windows of the cabin with shutters is obvious: the winter elements are capable of breaking the glass even without the participation of hooligans. But it is quite difficult to make swing shutters in a change house, and blinds are needed for them, because... In the hot summer, a room without a ventilation system will be stuffy. That's why best option shutter for the change house - folding, see fig. They shade windows, like awnings, protect glass from damage better than swing windows, and are easier to make.

Carriages

Construction trailers come in lengths of 6-12 m and a width of 2.4 m. A cabin trailer 6 m long turned out to be very convenient for a dacha: a lot of things can fit in it, and it can be placed without problems even on 6 acres. It was only necessary to increase its width to 3 m, because... The walls of a frame cabin are thicker than in a standard trailer. Change houses similar type, see fig. They are always on sale and sell well.

However, with the development of the needs of summer residents, with often insufficient opportunities to build a comfortable house on the site, problems arose with the layout. Typical construction and traveling change house-vest, pos. 1 in Fig. below, this is only the bedroom and/or dressing room. For kitchens, dining rooms, bathrooms, offices, even bars and billiard rooms, other types of trailers of the same size have been and are being produced, but the summer resident has nowhere and no money to assemble an entire town on the site.

Attempts to use sanitary and ergonomic techniques and standards for residential premises lead to the fact that, in addition to the bedroom, there is only room left for a tiny vestibule, in which you can’t turn around in warm clothes, and a warehouse, in which nothing but a shovel and a rake fits, or a toilet without a shower, where, while sitting, it is impossible to open the door close - rests on the knees, for example, in the center in Fig.

Since the change house is essentially a mobile home, it would be quite justified to apply the techniques and standards of passenger transport to its layout. The only problem will be with the doors, or more precisely, with the direction of their opening, because... They are hinged, not sliding. But doors, in general, are the second biggest headache for planners.

An example of a rational layout of a 6x3 m shed is shown on the right in Fig. higher:

• The bedroom is 1.7 x 2.7 m larger than a railway compartment. It will fit a bunk bed, a small dinner table and a chest of drawers. At night, you can also place a cot on the floor, for which, among other things, there is enough space in the warehouse.
• The bathroom has a corner shower 1.1 x 1.1 m, a bio-toilet and a corner half-tulip washbasin, similar to the ones on the railway. It’s not a luxury, but you can wash yourself and relieve yourself.
• The largest area is allocated for the kitchen block, combined with a vestibule, these are the 2 highlights of this principle. Fits a compact refrigerator, a country stove with hob 3-5 kW of thermal power (enough for heating in the off-season), and there is still room to change clothes; and in the warmth.
• The exit from the bathroom is also into a warm room, which is important after a shower in cold weather.

With smaller cabins the situation is more complicated; here you have to combine a storage shelter with a kitchen. An example of the layout of this kind of “studio cabin” 3x4.5 m is shown in Fig. on right.

And then?

Guess what, the next person at the dacha, as they say, will scream: “Build me!” Perhaps when the house is not yet ready, and the bathhouse is only in dreams? That's right, a barn. Either a poultry house or a pigsty, which is almost the same in design.

The situation is peak. How to build it? Where can I get time if I already need more of it than there are hours in the day? And most importantly - from what? There is no extra money and is not expected.

Pallets made from pallets of building materials. There are probably some left over from the construction site, and it’s not expensive to buy used ones: dismantling pallets into irregular lumber with holes from nails is absolutely unprofitable, so used pallets are often sold off cheaply just to get rid of them.