When building a garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and we are talking not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the doors above the ground level. The article will discuss the reasons why it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases you have to raise Garage Doors higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways in which this can be done.

Why raise the gate?

When it comes to the need to raise the gate, it concerns swing structures. There is no such problem for folding structures, since they are able to automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to lifting the gate:

• hinge wear;
• frame deformation;
• incorrect design;
• violation of the integrity of the foundation;
• replacement of vehicle.

Old gate designs are made of sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 millimeters or more. This gate design itself is quite heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to sag. The reason for this may be poor quality metal hinges. The rods lose their strength and the doors partially tilt forward. This complicates or makes the normal process of closing the gate difficult or impossible.

Another reason why gates need to be raised is wear and tear. metal corner. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but to save money, small corners are used, which begin to deform under constant loads. In this case, the geometry of the frame is disrupted, which leads to problems with the gate. When designed correctly, swing gates are never placed flush with the ground. Even with correct installation this approach can become a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperatures and the doors will not open because they will cling to the asphalt.

Another problem that manifests itself when the gate level is low is precipitation. If there is a significant amount of snow in the winter, you have to work hard to clear the area near the gate before entering or leaving the garage. If there is heavy rain, water will simply seep into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if the garage has an inspection hole or basement. In some cases, due to ground movements, a problem with deformation of the lower part of the frame may arise. This also results in the need to raise the gate. Walls can also become deformed, which leads to sagging of the gate and the impossibility of opening it.

Gate lifting methods

In most cases, it is better not to lift the gate alone. By virtue of heavy weight You can get serious injuries to your hands and musculoskeletal system. There are several ways to carry out the ascent, the following will be discussed below:

• repair washers;
• reducing the jumper;
• decreasing the threshold level;
• gate trimming.

Each of these methods requires its own arsenal of tools.

Repair washers

This option for increasing the height of the valves above ground level can be considered one of the simplest. Repair washers will help in cases where the doors do not open well due to wear on the hinges. With proper skill, you can do the work of installing washers yourself. In this way, you can usually raise the sashes by 1 cm. To implement the idea, washers of the required thickness are selected or a selection of several elements is made. The hole in the washer must be such that the hinge rod can fit freely into it. The washer must be lubricated on one side only. The second should be fixedly fixed on the loop.

To carry out the operation, it is necessary to lift the flaps, but not remove them completely. It is enough to create a gap into which the washer can fit. It is necessary to select a jack that can be easily rolled under the sash. If there is no such option, then you can build metal loop, part of which will be under the sash, and the second is clearly fixed on the jack. Another way is to install a rolling jack under the sash by lifting it. To do this, it opens perpendicular to the wall and several wooden wedges. While performing these actions, it is necessary to hold the gate so that it does not skew to one side.

Using a jack, you can repair deformed parts of the gate, which is causing the sagging. In this case, the jack is installed as far as possible from the hinges, and the sash is raised. As you rise, it is necessary to perform blows with a sledgehammer, which will help level out the deformed area. It is better to perform leveling in several small passes, then the result will be most effective. It is worth understanding that with severe deformation perfect result, it may not be possible to achieve. If the frame was aligned, then the bend must be additionally reinforced with a corner that is welded on top.

Note! If you are aligning a gate that has a wicket, you should not remove it. If this is done, then after the procedure it may not return to its place. Instead, it is necessary to firmly fix the door with ties or welding tacks.

Jumper reduction

This option for lifting the sashes can be called one of the most difficult and costly in terms of time and effort. But the result obtained can be considered the most effective. This option is also called raising the frame. To implement this, you will need to completely remove the garage door leaves. In some cases, the frame does not need to be dismantled, but it is necessary to free it from the clamps that hold it in the wall. These can be metal pieces of reinforcement that are driven into the holes. It will be easier to lift if the upper part of the frame is used as a jumper brickwork. In this case, it will be enough to remove one or more rows. Everything will depend on the required lifting height of the garage door frame.

If there is a concrete lintel above the frame crossbar, then more effort will have to be applied. When using a standard element, it will be possible to raise the gate by about 10 cm. This is due to the fact that concrete is located at this level, and then reinforcement comes. You will need a hammer drill with a long drill bit. The diameter of the drill is selected to be 10 or 12 mm. The grinder marks the line along which the drilling will be carried out. It must be horizontal and located directly under the reinforcement. Holes are drilled in a row without a large gap. The next step is to install the chisel and begin beating the upper part of the jumper. Once the task is completed, it is necessary to remove the remaining concrete and level the surface of the lintel.

The next step is to raise the frame to the required height. If the metal fasteners have already been cut off, you need to use a hammer drill and a chisel in those places where the frame is concreted into the wall. It must be completely released and move freely. There are two ways to raise the frame:

• wedges from below;
• jack from above.

In the first case, you need to act starting from the middle. At this point, a strong crowbar is placed and a slow rise begins. You shouldn't start from the edges, because the gate frame will simply jam in the opening. After a slight lift, you need to place wooden spacers under the frame. Then you can move alternately to the left and right edges. As soon as one of them is raised, a wedge is also placed under it. It is worth understanding that extreme points, may be more difficult to give in than the central one. When it is possible to achieve a large gap, one or more rolling jacks are installed in it.

Further lifting is carried out using jacks. In this case, it is important to act synchronously with an assistant or lift to a small level on each jack in turn. You should not try to do everything quickly, because the frame may become warped. If this happens, then you need to lower one of the jacks and tap the garage door frame with a sledgehammer. The operation can be performed in another way. If it is impossible to place spacers and a jack under the frame threshold, you must do this under its top crossbar. Jacks in this version are mounted as shown in the diagram above. Made for them high stands from beams. A board gasket is placed on top of the head to prevent slippage. The garage door frame must also be raised evenly.

Note! In some cases, the threshold may be connected to the foundation, so it cannot be raised. Then the frame posts are cut, and top part rises separately. After this, small sections of the gate frame will need to be welded from the corner.

After such an operation, in most cases there is no need to digest the gate hinges, since they are mounted in their usual place. The question arises in relation to the lower part of the gate, because a gap is formed there equal to the height of the frame. It can be closed by welding onto the gate sheet metal A. It is also suitable for forming a threshold that will prevent rainwater from entering the room. The last option is necessary if the gate was initially too low.

Threshold level

This option for increasing the height of the gate with your own hands does not involve dismantling the gate and is one of simple options. It is worth noting that it can only be implemented if the height of the threshold is sufficient and there is a small margin. You should not resort to this method in the case when the lower part of the frame is almost at road level. To implement this plan, you will need to install horizontal struts that will temporarily fix the frame. The gate leaves are opened and the lower part of the frame is dismantled.

You should not throw it away, because this element will be used in its place. For the next step, you need a jackhammer or a powerful hammer drill. It will be necessary to knock down part of the concrete threshold. After reaching the required level, the lower part of the gate frame is welded into place and the horizontal struts are removed. You can start pouring the threshold cement mortar.

Gate trimming

This method is the simplest and most undesirable. It can be implemented only if the total height of the gate is quite large and you do not plan to buy a large car. The method of cutting the gate is used only when it is necessary to understand the level of the threshold so that water does not get inside. For work you will need a grinder. The first step is to separate the sheet metal from the sash frame at the bottom. The bottom crossbar is completely cut out, but will be needed later. After this, it is necessary to determine at what height the gate will be trimmed.

Using a chockline or a thread with paint, the line along which you want to make the cut is marked. The lower part is cut off with a grinder sheet material goal along the marked line. This, in principle, can be done in weight, but the best option would be to completely dismantle the sashes and make the cut in a horizontal position. In this case, there is less chance of biting the canvas and causing injury. After trimming each sash, it is necessary to weld the lower spacer into place. Next, the gate is mounted in its place and the threshold is filled. A video about three options for lifting the gate is below.

Summary

As you can see, in some cases, lifting the gate is necessary due to certain circumstances. It can be done in several ways. Some of them can be combined to achieve optimal results. Another way to raise the gate is to replace the sash version with a roller version. In this case, the gate will rise rather than slide apart. In this case, before installing the gate, you can expand the opening to the required dimensions.

A garage is primarily necessary for secure storage of a car. In addition, many car enthusiasts set up a workshop, cellar, warehouse in it, and keep numerous spare parts, tools, and seasonal tires in the garage. It is important to know how to protect your garage from being opened. Today we will look at the most significant factors effective methods. Let's find out how the protection of the premises differs depending on the type of materials from which the garage is built. Having learned numerous useful tips, everyone will be able to ensure safety in their garage.

It turns out that the protection of a garage largely depends on what material it is made of. Let's look at all the main types of garages, find out how safe it is to store a car in them, and how you can enhance protection.

• Monolithic reinforced concrete structure. This the best option for the garage, so that it is truly durable, reliable, and ensures safety. This design can be ordered at a Russian reinforced concrete products plant. Of course, you will need craftsmen and appropriate specialized equipment for its transportation and installation. But in this garage it is quite difficult to break through the wall. At good hinges and castles, gates, the building will become impregnable.
• Brick garages. These structures can also be very durable. But everything depends on the material and the quality of the masonry. In addition, there is vulnerable spot: floor slabs on the gate. Criminals lift them with jacks, providing clearance for themselves. Experienced garage workers simply attach such a plate directly to the garage door frame, ensuring the integrity and reliability of the structure.

• Metal buildings. Unfortunately, widespread garages made of corrugated sheets are becoming the least protected. Even teenagers can handle them without much difficulty. The metal panels themselves are vulnerable. In addition, there is a danger that the entire structure will simply be lifted above the ground. The problem is also in the thickness of the metal: if it is thin, the garage is opened with a simple device that resembles a familiar can opener. Therefore, it is important to use thick, durable metal. Good decision – sectional garage, which is assembled on site. Of course, the floor must be connected to the walls. It is also worth taking care of pouring the foundation so that it cannot be undermined.

When you have the opportunity to choose, it is better to choose a ready-made monolithic reinforced concrete garage. If it is not there, you will need to strengthen the existing structure.

Important points

The following factors are also significant. If you are looking for a new garage, pay attention to the following points.

• It is advisable to have neighbors with safe, well-equipped and secure garages. This is especially true in cooperatives. If the premises adjacent to you are very poorly protected, it is through them that intruders can get into your garage. This risk factor is very serious.
• The specifics of the area, as well as the level of crime in it, play a big role. When a place is poorly lit, rarely visited, it is difficult to see from different sides, the likelihood of criminals appearing increases sharply. It is better to buy a more expensive garage, but in a safe place, in a quiet area.
• Finally, having an expensive car next to you can be a negative factor. It happens that an elite car is stored in a garage, but it is well protected, closed, and has an alarm system. And then criminals can try to break into it through the next room. That is, the neighboring garage is under threat.

Be careful. To make your garage more secure, try to eliminate all risk factors and take additional safety measures.

We strengthen the garage

Now we will find out how to protect garages from opening, we will consider various options. We have already found out that metal structure must be welded from thick material. It is necessary to strengthen not only your garage, but also the neighboring ones. It is necessary to prevent undermining and lifting of the box. Now let's move on to the gate.

Gate protection

The weak link is the garage door. Unfortunately, quite often criminals resort to forceful opening of gates: they make jerks using cars, attaching a cable to the doors or gate handle. This method is quite effective, especially if the place is poorly visible and illuminated, and the area is deserted. To increase the level of safety, it is necessary to make the doors solid, without cracks or gaps.

Make additional stiffeners on metal gates. This is a good way to strengthen them. The best option– made of iron with a thickness of at least 3 mm. The frame must also be strong. It is advisable to weld it from channel number 6, just like the box. Additional measure– fasten the box with a reliable weld to the walls and beams of the garage.

Remember that attackers often press the gate using a crowbar. Here you need to eliminate the gap between the two sashes swing gates. Weld a strip of metal so that it is impossible to push the crowbar into the gap.

Loops

The vulnerability is often associated with loops. They are further strengthened by welding bolts. But this does not always help, since the bolt heads are cut off with a grinder or knocked off with a chisel.

Optimal modern solution– install internal hinges. In their design and structure they resemble car hinges. Of course, they will be more difficult to install, but it is also extremely difficult for criminals to get to such loops.

Locks

Locks must be extremely secure. It is advisable to use combinations of several locks of different types. The external lock protects the metal casing quite well. True, experienced criminals also get rid of casings by threading a crowbar into the shackle. The locking design with hidden rods is more reliable. They have a streamlined shape, which makes it difficult to throw on a chain.

Most effective solution- install one that will be securely closed from the outside. Experts also advise installing several locks, keeping a distance of 30 cm between them. Then, even if you try to break in, the load will be distributed. Be sure to ensure that the locks are well recessed and in no case protrude beyond the gate.

Electronic protection

It is most prudent to install an alarm system with remote control in the garage. Then, when a penetration or attempted break-in is detected, a squad will immediately go to the place. You won't have to run telephone wires because the radio link is now used. If you just want to scare away intruders, install a sound alarm: when someone breaks in, the siren will sound. Carefully mask the alarm switch.

Video: we provide reliable protection for the garage

Worth a look and useful materials on video. Here, car enthusiasts tell how to protect garages from being opened, show everything specific examples. For example, you can make reliable garage doors by equipping them with a special locking hatch. This will significantly improve the level of security.

You also need to pay attention to the correct installation of modern reliable locks on garage doors. The following video explains in detail how to do this.

If you follow the advice, act comprehensively, you will not leave the structure protected weak points, you will be able to ensure safety in the garage.

Swing gates can be considered perfect design, if not for one significant drawback - the tendency to spontaneously close at the slightest gust of wind. The result is scratches and dents on your favorite car, and sometimes even injuries. varying degrees heaviness on the body of their owner.

Allows you to avoid troubles simple devices– clamps for sashes, which are popularly called stops. Those who have not realized the need to use them can prop up swing gates with any object that comes to hand, or go to the store for a ready-made stopper. Or you can strain your own mind and make supports with your own hands.

Stoppers-constipations

The simplest and favorite option for home craftsmen. The stop works much the same as an old-fashioned window latch, but is much larger in size. Such a device is not yet commercially produced, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. For this you will need:

• two steel tubes(one for each swing gate leaf) about 15 cm long and 1.6 cm in diameter;
• steel plates 10 cm wide and 15 cm long;
• pins that fit freely into the pipe, at least 20 cm long.

The entire process of making a retainer with your own hands consists of several stages:

1. Steel tubes are welded to the plates and then attached to the bottom of the gate. For doors sheathed in wood, this is done using self-tapping screws; the plate is simply welded to metal doors.
2. A lever is welded to the upper end of the pin at a right angle, playing the role of a handle, or simply a pin, preheated at gas burner, which bends and is inserted into the pipe.
3. Now we open the sash and find a place where it will be necessary to drive the reciprocal part of our “latch” to a depth of about 30 cm. We take into account that the pin must fit into it at least 10 cm. Do not forget that the gate leaf may be located slightly higher than the entrance level.
4. To prevent the pin from interfering with opening the swing gate, we weld a hook above the lock on which the handle of the pin will rest.

But keep in mind the disadvantages of this device. The counter pipe into which the pin should be lowered may be covered with snow in winter and will have to be dug out, which is not always time. You can do without a mating part, but in this case the ends of the pins must be pointed. Such a latch will, of course, be less reliable than the original version, but in extreme cases it will do. If not steel pipes required diameter, you can slightly modify the device. Replace it with two or three loops. The result is a simple but quite effective design.

Stops on carabiners

An original and cheap solution to the DIY problem. For implementation you will need (for each swing gate):

• cargo sling with a metal hook at the end;
• small carabiner;
• eye bolt with M8 thread.

The tools you need are a drill with an F7 drill, an M8 tap and a wrench for it, and any adhesive-sealant. If you have experience using the above tools, then installing the clamp will take no more than half an hour. The process will consist of the following steps:

1. On frame with inside two holes are drilled at the same height and threads are cut into them.
2. The eye bolts are coated with sealant and screwed into the prepared holes.
3. Carabiners are put on eye bolts, and cargo slings are threaded through them.

The hooks may get caught on the adjacent garage door. But nothing prevents you from using a bracket attached to a fence post or wall for these purposes. You can attach it to any nearby durable structure and get a cheap and reliable stop, devoid of the disadvantages of a locking lock. Unfortunately, the appearance of this device is not very attractive, which many may consider a significant disadvantage.

Hook retainer for aesthetes

A very simple device, but it does its job perfectly. It has a respectable appearance and even allows you to fix swing gate leaves in two or more positions. For manufacturing you need (for both doors):

• metal corners 50 mm long, 80 cm and 15 cm;
• steel rod with a cross-sectional diameter of 12 mm, approximately 1.2 meters long;
• welding machine, self-tapping screws, drill, vice.

Now let’s do a few simple steps:

1. In the larger corner, which will act as a hinge, three holes are drilled on one side for fastening to the gate frame. On the other side, there are two holes at the edges, of such a diameter that the end of a steel rod can fit freely into them.
2. Now the hardest part is making the hook. One side of the heated steel rod is bent into a ring (don't forget to leave a gap so that the hook can be put on the canopy!). The other side is given U-shape. It's difficult, but quite possible.
3. Now a canopy is made from a smaller corner, for which two holes are drilled in it on one side for fastening to the sash, and in the middle of the other side - one hole for fixing the hook.
4. We fix the corners so that the larger one is on the gate frame and the smaller one is on the leaf. You can use self-tapping screws for these purposes (for wooden gates) or welding (for metal). We put the hook on the canopy and finally bend the ring.

That's all, the length of the hook and the location of the holes will have to be calculated empirically, experimenting with gate leaves. The result is a simple but reliable DIY stop. It will allow you to open the gate completely or leave the swing gate ajar.

Stopper

A simple device that can be used by anyone whose gate is lined with wood. To make it yourself you will need wooden block and a window hinge. One end of the loop is rigidly fixed to the end of the bar, the other is movably attached to the gate leaf.

You can also make a metal analogue of this device, consisting of a pipe movably attached to the sash. In the non-working position, the pipe rises up and is held here by a rope loop. To fix the gate, just lower the pipe. To increase the support area, the top of the pipe should be cut at an angle.

Latch-trap with pawl and spring

A more complex device, which has the advantage that it allows the gate to be locked automatically. It consists:

The pipe with the dog is attached at the required distance from the wall. The bracket is attached to the gate leaf. The principle of operation is quite simple. When the sash moves, the bracket attached to it lifts the pawl, which then lowers and securely fixes the sash.

A similar device can be placed at the bottom of the gate, but you will have to equip it with a spring. It will return the dog to a horizontal position. To close the gate later, simply lower the pawl with your foot.

Latch-trap without spring

To make it, you will need a thick steel plate, which needs to be bent on one side and a handle welded to the curved end. A steel rod is welded to the bottom of the plate, which is subsequently inserted into brackets fixedly fixed to the ground.

Important condition! For proper operation the stop requires that the flat part of the plate be much longer, and therefore heavier, than the curved section. Then the gate leaf, when moving with its mass, will lower the curved end of the plate. Afterwards, the remaining flat part will lower under its own weight, lift the curved end with the handle and fix the gate. To close the swing gate, simply pull the handle down.

The described clamps are not all options for do-it-yourself wind stoppers for swing gates. Perhaps the devices described will serve as an impetus for your imagination, and you will come up with your own original way problem solving. And we can only wish good luck to the master!

You will need

• - pipe Ø100 mm;
• - corner 100x100 mm;
• - angle grinder (“grinder”);
• - welding machine;
• - cement;
• - sand;
• - edged boards and timber for formwork;
• - carpentry tools;
• - shovels and bayonet shovels.

Instructions

Cut blanks for gates. For racks, use a Ø100 mm pipe or a 100x100 mm corner. Their length is determined by the sum of the height of the gate and the length of the ends embedded in the ground (0.8-1 m). With a planned gate height of 2 m, the length of the blanks should be 2.8-3 m.
Make a jumper connecting the racks from a 100x100 mm corner. Its length should be equal to the width of the gate. For a standard gate, it is taken to be 3 m. If a pipe is used as posts, cut one flange of the corner on both sides at an angle of 30° and give its edge a concave shape. This is done so that the edges of the corner fit well to the posts when welding them.

Assemble the gate frame from blanks on the ground, choosing a more level place for this. It should look like the letter “H” - two posts and a jumper placed between them at a distance of 2 m from their top (or 0.8-1 m from the bottom). In this case, two conditions must be ensured: parallelism of the racks with each other and perpendicularity of the jumper with respect to the racks.

Weld the jumper to the posts. Both corner flanges must be securely welded with a continuous seam. Weld any pieces of metal to the jumper in two or three places, pointing them down. They will act as reinforcement, firmly connecting the lintel to the foundation.

Dig a trench for pouring the foundation. Its width should be 350-400 mm, length - 3.5 meters (for a 3-meter gate). Required depth trenches are determined taking into account the depth of soil freezing, its type, level groundwater. For simplicity, you can take it equal to the depth of soil freezing in your area, which can be found on construction sites.

Make wooden shields from edged boards and assemble formwork from them. Its dimensions in plan should be 0.3x3.3 m. It is advisable to make the formwork walls slightly wider towards the bottom to avoid the buoyant effect of the soil on the foundation.

Install the gate into the formwork so that the lintel is flush with the ground and the posts are vertical. To do this, place supports made of stones or metal under the posts or lintel and secure the posts on both sides with stops. Place reinforcement in the formwork from any type of metal - wire, scraps metal profile and so on.

Prepare sand-cement mortar with a ratio of 1:4 (cement:sand) and pour it into the formwork. To use less mortar, fill the formwork with stones and broken bricks. While pouring, tamp down the solution with a shovel. The surface of the poured foundation should be level with the ground and the lintel. Before hanging the gate itself, give the solution time to harden - at least a week.

anti-burglary garages (burglar protection)

We offer several types of protection against burglary (opening) of garages:

1. Installation of protective rings from a Ø219mm pipe on external locks - with such protection it becomes impossible to cut down the padlock and it is very difficult or impossible (depending on the lock) to slip a crowbar or pry bar under the lock and break it.

2. Installation of “Crabs” - corners or pins are welded onto the gate from the inside, which extend beyond the gate frame when closed. Thus, when cutting the hinges from the outside, the gate will not open, because "Crabs" won't give it.

3. Installation of a good garage internal lock, with a large cross-section and bolt stroke, having a simple and reliable design.

4. Additional welding of loops through a corner or fittings.

5. Reinforcement, if necessary, of the gate with thicker-walled metal.

6. Strengthening the walls and ceiling with a grid of reinforcement.

7. Welding additional ears for external padlocks.

8. Installation or replacement with a rod large diameter internal bolts up, down or between each other.

9. Concreting the floor with reinforcement.

10. Welding to neighboring garages (if the owners don’t mind)

other methods of anti-burglary of garages and metal doors, after individual measurement.

Departure for measurement (inspection) in Samara is free of charge.

If you don't have electricity, this is not a problem, we have a generator-electric power station.

For those interested in garage safety, we recommend reading:

Some car owners consider the garage to be a safe haven for storing their vehicle. But statistics show that this is where many cars were looted. Criminals quite professionally rob and steal cars from garages that are well closed. How to prevent such troubles?

Let's take into account that there are different types garages. A reinforced concrete garage is the most reliable. Of course, they can break it, but only with the help of a bulldozer or jackhammers. The second safest would be a brick garage. Much depends on the material from which it is made. Silicate blocks can be made with a simple crowbar; robbers do this quickly and quietly. And the most vulnerable are metal garages. Experienced thieves can hack them in 5 minutes. Those are especially accessible metal structures, which are not secured to the floor, can be opened even by a group of novice teenage burglars.

Let's consider a number of recommendations regarding garage locks:
- It is necessary to install metal casings (pipe rings) so that the padlock becomes inaccessible to raiders. Of course, if they have a crowbar, this most likely will not help. But then you can use locks with hidden rods. They have quite streamlined shapes. Also use internal locks in your garage. It is important that they cannot be opened from the inside.
- If there is no gate, install several locks on the garage door. Make the distance between them 40 cm. This is important to distribute the load when trying to break in with chains or a crowbar.
- Follow this rule when installing locks: there must be elements of its mechanism hidden inside the lock. Then the thief will not be able to unscrew them.

The design of the gate itself is of great importance. It happens that they are hacked using force. They pull it right out by the roots. Of course, this is done in deserted places. Make the gate monolithic, without external handles. Do not forget that the inside of the gate must have strong corners or a profile along the entire perimeter. The hinges must be well welded to the frame of the garage itself, or better yet, reinforced. Do not screw them in, as this will make the job easier for burglars. It is better to screw, weld, nail in a timely manner, in other words, firmly connect the canopy and frame at the garage. You will have to spend a lot of time on this, but your car will not be stolen. The most unprotected boxes are those with a tin or slate roof, especially if it is nailed down. It’s also good to weld the garage to neighboring garages, if the owners don’t mind.

Some more recommendations:
- Choose a garage in busy areas.
- The area should be well lit.
- Most reliable way protection in this case - alarm. It is triggered when garages are broken into and sends special signals to security services. While the robber is busy in the garage, a patrol arrives and detains him. The owner is informed via SMS that the thief has been detained.
If you need advice from professionals in Samara, call and we will come to take measurements and help you choose the optimal list of burglary protection.

The first and most important thing for the safety of your garage is the awareness that you are at risk. Excessive self-confidence in such matters is the first assistant of a criminal. A few more tips on how to protect your garage.

Often, criminals entering the garage are not even interested in your car. The garage can even be opened because of food supplies for the winter in the cellar or an expensive radio. Once the garage of your humble servant (before work to strengthen it) was opened only in order to break through the “entrance” in the wall to the neighboring, more secure garage and take a foreign car out of it. Here you go..

Rule #1:

When choosing a garage, you need to look not only at the strength of your future doors and walls, but also the neighboring ones.

Rule #2:

The concept of “safety” refers not only to the garage itself, but also to the surrounding area. If your garage is located in a not-so-prosperous area of ​​the city, is poorly lit, and is also poorly visible from the outside, you can be sure that sooner or later uninvited guests will visit it if it is not properly fortified.

Rule #3:

What if you already have a garage? Then take a look around. If there are bushes growing nearby or standing old fence blocking the visibility of your garage, it is advisable to remove these obstacles. It is worth thinking about garage lighting. It is especially easy to solve this issue by installing powerful lights on the roofs of outer garages in garage cooperatives. In this case, energy costs can be divided among all garage owners.

WITH external protection Looks like we've sorted it out. Now let's move on to the garage itself. What can you do to strengthen your garage?

Gates:

The gate, due to its specificity, is the weakest link in the external wall complex. In order to make the gate impregnable, its doors must be made of metal with a thickness of at least 2-3 mm and welded onto a frame made of a profile of at least 50 mm. It is advisable to make the gate frame from any profile of at least 60mm (preferably larger). The box itself must be securely connected to the walls or beams, because very often seemingly impenetrable gates fly out as soon as you pull them with a cable tied to the car.

You can also weld rods onto the hinges - this will significantly increase their resistance to sawing. The same applies to eyelets for locks.

I don’t think it’s worth mentioning about the strip of metal that prevents you from pushing crowbars between the gate leaves - everyone should have it.

Now let's remember about sliding locks of the "latch" type that fix the gate leaves. Usually you close them with simple metal bars, and the door still hangs, but it is worth welding metal on them so that the fit is tight.

Locks:

I won't talk about castles. Better yet, I’ll give you a quote from the 8th issue of the Autoreview magazine for 2002:

“...There are many relatively inexpensive and at the same time very worthy domestic products. Pay attention to the products under trademarks ZGC, Class, METTEM, Geryon, Kerberos. When starting a conversation with the seller, ask to see locks specifically designed for installation in a garage (the marking of such a product should include the letter “G”). Immediately return those that can be opened from the inside without a key (having climbed into the garage through a tunnel or a hole in the wall, a thief should not be able to open the gate). After this, select products certified for at least the third class of burglary resistance (this parameter must be indicated in the passport). If the lock is marked with the letter “L”, this means that it is intended for installation on the left (as viewed from the hinge side) gate leaf. And vice versa.

What type of security mechanism is optimal for a garage lock? Level key, the key of which is made in the form of a double-sided “butterfly”. Disc locks also work well.

If your garage door does not have a gate, then it is better to buy two or three mortise or rim locks. They must be installed so that the vertical distance between the key holes is 300-350 mm - this will provide more uniform distribution loads during brute force attempts. Regardless of the type of locking device you choose, it design features and models, three should be religiously observed basic rules. Firstly, the security mechanism of a lock installed on a garage should under no circumstances protrude beyond the leaf of the gate or gate. Secondly, fastening must be done with bolts with a diameter of at least 8 mm, or it is better to weld the lock. And thirdly, you need to make sure that the fastening elements of the locking device cannot be unscrewed from the outside.

Walls:

For walls, we can recommend creating a powerful frame from corners and scalding this frame with a metal mesh; we can also recommend it for the ceiling. Note! Often concrete floors They just lie on the walls. They are very easy to lift with a hydraulic jack and get inside. Ceiling tiles must be connected to the walls with strong metal pins.

Finally:

1) Installing a howler (must be placed in a hard-to-reach place) that is triggered when the gate is opened can scare away any uninvited guest. The howler can be switched off both externally and internally.

2) It is advisable to make a secret button for lighting or unscrew the plug from the shield when leaving. The absence of light will make life difficult for any burglar.

3) A small bolt, inconspicuous among the others, firmly pressing the doors to the frame (in this case you will have to carry it with you and wrench) is another obstacle for a burglar.

We can also make a metal safe from 3-4mm steel with internal locks for storing valuables, weapons, etc. and weld it to the garage wall.

Call us and we will help you reliably protect your garage and car in Samara! We also carry out any garage repairs in Samara.