How to strengthen the banks of a drainage ditch. Construction of a drainage ditch. What is a gabion and how to make it yourself

Ditch construction

Basic methods of strengthening

Use of slate and tires

Installation of geomats and geogrids

Advantages of gabion

kanalizaciyavdome.ru

How to strengthen a ditch at the dacha? Options

A drainage ditch in a dacha is something that exists near almost every site. And it’s not uncommon for problems to arise with it, namely, its walls crumble, as a result of which it becomes, at least, not beautiful, not to mention how it copes with its function. A function drainage ditch is to divert excess water generated during a flood or rainfall from the site and buildings on it.

Before strengthening a ditch at your dacha, you need to make sure that its design corresponds to the task assigned to it; below we will consider what options there may be for constructing a ditch.

Construction of a ditch at the dacha, options

Depending on the slope of your site and the volume of water that your ditch periodically has to accept, you need to choose the type of ditch that suits your needs. In addition, you can pay attention to how your neighbor’s ditch is arranged, whether he is satisfied with this solution, perhaps it would be better to make them the same and thereby ensure common system storm drainage near your sites. The picture below schematically shows the main types of ditch construction in a dacha and options for strengthening it.

An effective drainage system is not limited to just a ditch, it must consist of at least two independent networks

One of them - linear system sewerage, described in detail in this article. Typically, such a sewer system is built when the site is constantly flooded. The top point of such a sewer system is marked, depending on the slope of the site, and a network of channels is drawn from it; the channels themselves have a slope of at least 5 mm relative to the top point for each meter of the channel. Thus, all water from the site is collected in an open drainage system
The second is drainage around the house, described in detail here. For him, the top point will be the far corner of the building. The drainage network, arranged around the perimeter, is also made with a slope of the same 5-10 mm per meter, it is covered with turf or paving slabs

Let's consider additional requirements for trench systems. The trenches should be at least 50 centimeters wide and deep; it is advisable to make larger trenches near the foundation. In order to strengthen the bottom of the trenches of the systems, crushed stone, gravel or at least sand can be used; it is advisable to compact it. For trenches of the above drainage systems, strengthening the walls is not required, since they are still covered with earth or concrete trays are inserted into them, but for a ditch near the site this is necessary. We will look at ways to strengthen the walls of a ditch in a dacha below.

What methods exist for strengthening a ditch in a dacha?

The chosen method of strengthening the ditch depends on the slope of its walls. Depending on this angle, the following methods of strengthening are divided:

Strengthening the ditch with improvised materials

The simplest and available material strengthening the walls of the ditch is slate. What it looks like finished

To build such a structure, we will need the slate sheets themselves, metal pipes or reinforcement, a sledgehammer to drive them in, of course, a shovel, possibly a crowbar. And also a grinder for cutting slate sheets into the required identical pieces; it won’t hurt to wear a respirator; there will be a lot of dust when cutting. Cut slate sheets are placed directly into the ground to a depth of about 30 centimeters, and the sheets should fit tightly to each other. Pipes or fittings are needed to secure the positions of the slate sheets; they are driven in in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the sheets.

Another material that is abundantly used by summer residents due to its availability is car tires. Old tires are laid in rows and fastened together with bolts or ties, the voids inside the tires are filled with soil or sand and gravel, and to give even greater strength to this structure, metal rods are hammered into the middle.

Another option with tires involves laying them not in rows, but in the form of a ladder. Each new row is laid on the previous one with a shift of half the diameter of the tire. When such a staircase is laid, it is also covered with soil or sand and gravel.

Geomats and geogrids

First, let's figure out what geomats, biomats and geogrids are. So, geomats and biomats are polymers with a waterproof structure; they are made from polypropylene lattices superimposed on each other at high temperature. This structure allows plants to penetrate through them, but at the same time it remains waterproof. let's consider approximate diagram laying geomats on a slope:

Geogrid is a polymer mesh with a square cell, usually on a polyester base. An approximate layout of its installation:

Rigid geogrid for ditch reinforcement

Geogrid is a stronger and more durable solution than all those described above, geogrid is made from polyethylene and polypropylene, this material is not susceptible to corrosion and can last a very long time. for a long time. Geogrid is used in very deep ditches, almost ravines.

Let's consider an approximate scheme for strengthening a ditch slope with a geogrid:

1. Slope preparation, similar to geomats and geogrids

2. It is necessary to stretch the geogrid along the entire slope of the ditch and, if necessary, cut off the excess

3. The geogrid is attached to the ground with anchor rods, the thickness of which is 1.5 cm. and a length of 50 cm or more, it is necessary to install fasteners over the entire surface of the geogrid in a checkerboard pattern in increments of about 30 cm.

4. The geogrid cells are filled with either crushed stone, if the ditch is often filled with water, or sand, if it is dry most of the time. Just like the previous options, it is possible to sprinkle with soil and plant ground cover plants.

Strengthening the ditch with gabion

This is the most durable and strong, but expensive material for strengthening the walls of ditches and more; factory products can be of almost any shape. Essentially, this is a metal lattice filled with stones made of galvanized wire with PVC coating m for additional protection against corrosion. By the way, gabion is translated from French as a basket with stones.

The use of gabion as a material for strengthening ditch is very expensive pleasure, so in this case we will not provide a diagram of its installation. With a factory gabion, it is advisable to order its installation on site from specialists; as a rule, such companies work this way. But the result is pleasing to the eye; if aesthetics and high-quality performance are important in this matter, despite the relatively high price, then this will be the best choice. In addition, manufacturers guarantee 70 years of service for such structures.

kanalizatsiyadoma.ru

how to strengthen walls in different ways

On every garden plot there is a drainage ditch. Although it drains unnecessary water, over time the slopes of the ditch itself may slide down or crumble. Therefore, land owners are faced with the task of strengthening the slopes (walls) of the ditch. There are several ways to solve this problem, ranging from the most budgetary to the more expensive, but quality options strengthening the walls. How to stop the slopes from sliding?

If you have swampy or waterlogged soil on your site, you need to install a drainage system to remove excess moisture from the ground.

How to strengthen slopes with slate

The simplest and cheapest way to fix ditch walls is to place sheets of corrugated or flat slate.

It is better to fasten slate sheets using metal posts.

To work, you will need reinforcement rods or metal tubes 1 m long, slate sheets, a shovel, a crowbar, an angle grinder, and a respirator (to protect against slate dust when cutting sheets).

First, use a grinder to cut the slate sheets into pieces of the same size. Then, using a shovel, install them straight or at an angle, taking into account the angle of inclination of the ditch walls, into the ground to a depth of about 25-30 cm. Flat sheets are installed close to each other, and wavy sheets are installed overlapping. Next you need to drive it into the soil to a depth of about half a meter. metal posts or reinforcing bars for fastening slate on both sides. You can place the pillars at a distance equal to the length slate sheet on the front side, and at the same distance on the back side, so that the posts or rods are staggered. It is advisable to coat the fastening with an anti-corrosion compound or paint.

Slate reinforcement of slopes has a short service life, and it looks too simple and not very attractive, however, despite the shortcomings, it allows you to strengthen the walls of the ditch for several years, and in the future it can be replaced with better material.

Strengthening ditch slopes with biomats or geogrid

There are more expensive ones, but more qualitative methods strengthening ditch slopes. These are biomats or geomats, geogrids, gabions and geogrids. To choose the most suitable method for a drainage ditch, you need to pay attention to the angle of inclination of its wall. If the slope has an angle of inclination from 8 to 15 degrees, you can strengthen it with geogrids. And if the slope is more than 15 degrees, it is reinforced with geogrids and gabions. Now about each of these materials.

Geomats or biomats consist of polymer material waterproof structure. When creating this product, polypropylene gratings are superimposed on each other under the influence of high temperatures. As a result, the structure of the finished material is very similar to the structure of a washcloth. Plants can grow through the holes of the material, the roots of which intertwine with the polypropylene gratings and further strengthen their structure. Thus, geomats prevent the soil from sliding down.

To lay biomats on slopes, you will need rolls of material, long anchor bolts with a hook at the end for fastening, a hammer, seeds of ground cover plants, and a rake.

You should proceed as follows. First you need to clear the surface of the ditch slope from debris and level it. Next, take a roll of biomat and secure its upper edge at the top of the ditch using anchor bolts. The roll should be gradually rolled out to the bottom edge of the ditch, a piece of the required length should be cut, the folds carefully straightened along the entire length of the material and the lower part of the biomat should be secured with anchors. The next roll of the same length must be laid with a 15-centimeter overlap on the first and secured in the same way. The surface of the biomats should be covered with a 4-centimeter layer of soil, leveled with a rake and sown with plant seeds. Seed consumption is 40 g/sq.m.

To fasten the mesh on a slope, metal anchor rods 15-20 cm long are used at a distance of 0.7-1 m from each other.

Geogrid is a product made of polyester or glass threads in the form of a mesh with square cells. Available in rolls. To work, you will need the geogrid itself, a ruler or tape measure, a marker, scissors, anchor rods or metal brackets, a hammer, a hand roller, ground cover seeds, a rake, soil or crushed stone.

To reinforce the surface of the ditch slope, it is leveled and compacted with a hand roller. Then measure the length of one row of geogrid on a roll and cut it into the required pieces. Rolls must be laid on slopes close to each other. The mesh is secured to the slope with metal anchor rods 15-20 cm long at a distance of 0.7-1 m from each other. In addition to anchors, metal brackets can be used to fasten the mesh U-shaped made of wire. They will hold the mesh especially well on ditch walls exposed to strong winds. The geogrid fixed to the walls can be covered with a layer of soil and ground cover plants (mint, bryozoan, saxifrage or periwinkle) can be planted on it. Instead of soil, the mesh is filled with small pebbles or crushed stone.

How to Strengthen Geogrid on Ditch Walls

Geogrid is a high-strength mesh made of polypropylene and polyethylene. It perfectly strengthens the walls of ditches, thanks to the adhesion of the honeycomb cells to plant soil or crushed stone, with which this mesh is filled after installation on the slopes. Geogrid cells can be stretched in length or width. To install the geogrid, you will need the following materials and tools: rolled geogrid, anchor fasteners (L-shaped anchors 50-80 cm long), scissors, hammer, sand or fine gravel, crushed stone, pump for pumping out water.

The geogrid must be strengthened on the slopes of a dry ditch. If the ditch is filled with water, you will need to pump the water out with a pump or scoop out the liquid manually if there is only a small amount. The drained or dry ditch is cleared of branches, large stones and plants, and the surface of the walls is leveled. The grate should be spread along the length of the ditch wall, carefully unwinding the roll and cutting off pieces of material of the required length with scissors. The geogrid is attached to the slope using reinforcement 1.5 cm thick and 50-110 cm long, bent with a hook. The fasteners should be placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern.

Then the geogrid cells must be filled with material that will strengthen it even more on the slopes of the ditch. If the ditch is dry, it is better to fill the cells with sand or gravel. If the moat fills with water, for the cells would be better suited crushed stone To decorate the ditch, its slopes can be planted with ground cover plants.

What is a gabion and how to make it yourself

The most reliable, but expensive strengthening of the ditch banks is the gabion. This is a factory-made product in the form of a parallelepiped made of double-torsion metal mesh, which during installation is filled with crushed stone or large stones. The metal wire for the mesh is galvanized and has a PVC coating, thanks to which it protects the material from corrosion and mechanical stress. Gabion cages are installed along the banks of the ditch. These products are very durable and can last more than 70 years, but they are expensive. Therefore, many owners make gabions with their own hands.

To make gabions, you will need reinforcement rods with a diameter of 6 mm, electric welding and electrodes, a ruler or tape measure, a marker, an angle grinder, a chain-link mesh and cobblestones, as well as shovels and a wheelbarrow for transporting earth. First you will need to figure out the dimensions of the future gabion. For small areas, structures with dimensions of 80x40x40 cm are suitable. To weld the cells, you will need to install the internal rods at a certain distance from each other. Therefore, it is better to purchase stones in advance to see their sizes. Next, weld the reinforcing bars so that the stones do not fly out through them.

You will then need to widen the banks of the ditch with a shovel to place the cages along them. Gabions are installed along the slopes of the ditch in several rows high. Each cell is filled with cobblestones. The top of the gabions is covered with a chain-link mesh for greater reliability. A regular mesh can be replaced every few years, as it is susceptible to corrosion. But it is better to buy a galvanized chain-link with PVC coating, which will serve for a long time. The upper edges of the chain-link can be additionally reinforced with cobblestones.

Thanks to slate, nets, gratings and gabions, you can make the banks of the drainage ditch quite stable and motionless in different ways. Let the owners decide which method to choose, but in any case, each method is effective and allows the walls of the ditch not to move apart. It’s just that in some cases the slopes will be fixed in a certain position for several years (with slate fasteners) and up to 100 years when gabions are used as wall fortifications.

1pokanalizacii.ru

How to strengthen a ditch in a country house - strengthening the walls of the ditch

How to strengthen a ditch at the dacha

Many summer residents face this problem when arranging their territory. The presence of groundwater and swampy soil lead to the creation drainage system. Moreover, flooding of the site occurs for other reasons. Stormy rains or heavy melting of snow in the spring lead to flooding of the house, basement or other utility rooms.

But before you strengthen the ditch in your dacha, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with its structure and choose the most suitable one. suitable option wall fastenings.

Ditch construction

Creating an effective drainage system requires the presence of at least two independent networks.

Linear is designed to drain the area itself. Usually it is erected when constant flooding occurs. Branches should be spread from the top topographic point closed ditches, while ensuring a slope of 5–10 mm per meter. All water goes into the open drainage system.
A second independent network must protect the foundation and basements Houses. Here the reference point is the far corner of the building. The drainage ditch along the perimeter should also have a slight drop in level of 0.5 percent. To cover it, use turf or concrete paving slabs.
Any trench in this system must be at least 50 cm deep and wide. Near the foundation this figure may be higher. To construct drains, a simple method is used: fascines (these are bundles of twigs and branches) or wooden boxes.
To strengthen the bottom, gravel, crushed stone or simply sand of different fractions are often used. But at the same time, the walls of the ditch periodically settle and crumble. Today there are several effective ways that will allow you to avoid this.

Basic methods of strengthening

Before you choose reliable way, it is worth carefully measuring the angle of inclination of the ditch walls.

If the slope angle does not exceed 8%, then it will be quite enough to strengthen it with the help of various plants.
Biomats or geogrids are used at a steepness of 8 to 15%.
If the angle exceeds 15%, then you cannot do without geogrids and gabions. True, at shallow depths, you can simply use stones and drive them into the slope.

Use of slate and tires

One of the most simple ways The ditch wall can be strengthened using ordinary slate.

In addition to sheets, you will need metal pipes or fittings, a shovel and a crowbar, as well as an angle grinder and a respirator.
Using a grinder, the sheets are cut into equal pieces. They are placed directly into the ground to a depth of 25–30 cm straight or with a slight slope. The sheets should fit snugly against each other.
Reinforcing bars are driven in on both sides in a checkerboard pattern. It is best if they are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or paint beforehand.
Western builders have come up with another one inexpensive way strengthening with car tires. Old tires can be laid in rows and secured together. The stakes hammered into the middle will give additional strength. The space inside can be filled with soil, but it is better to use sand or fine gravel. It is also useful for voids between tires.
There is another way. Tires can be stacked in several rows. In this case, each overlying one shifts by half the diameter. Then the tires are also covered. Using tires is very cheap, especially if you can get them for free or for next to nothing.

Of course, you can’t count on a too long service life, so it’s worth taking a closer look at more expensive but reliable materials.

Installation of geomats and geogrids

Geo- and biomats are nothing more than polymers with a waterproof structure. Polypropylene gratings are superimposed on each other under the influence of high temperature. This structure is more reminiscent of a washcloth, but this is done so that they can grow through the holes. various plants.

The first step is to prepare the slope itself. It is necessary not only to level it, but also to clear it of any debris.
Geomats are sold in rolls, so the top edge is aligned with top part ditch and secured there with anchor bolts.
The roll is rolled out to the bottom, and then cut and secured with anchors.
The next roll should overlap with a tolerance of about 15 cm.
Then you will need to cover everything with a small layer of soil and use the seeds for sowing. Usually 40 grams per m² is enough.
Geogrid is also available in rolls. It has a polyester base and square cells. For installation you will need a tape measure, a marker, scissors, a hammer, as well as a rake and a hand roller.
It is with the help of a roller that the slope surfaces are well compacted and leveled.

Each roll must be cut into a certain number of pieces, and then laid tightly on the slope directly next to each other. For fastening, metal anchor rods or staples are used. They are especially needed in places where there is a high probability of strong winds.
The geogrid is also covered with a layer of soil and plants such as periwinkle, mint or bryozoan are planted. True, you can simply use small crushed stones or pebbles.

But for stronger strengthening, the use of geogrid will be required.

Its basis is polypropylene and polyethylene. This alone suggests that this is a very highly durable and durable product. In addition, the geogrid is not afraid of corrosion and can last long years.

Since geogrid cells can be stretched both in length and width, they adhere tightly to the soil or crushed stone. In addition to the rolls, you will need anchors, scissors, a hammer, as well as fine gravel and sand. A pump may be needed.
Installation work can only be carried out when the drainage ditch is not filled with water and all slopes are completely dry. Therefore, you will have to not only pump out the water, but also prepare the surface. It is necessary to remove all debris, large stones and branches. In this case, small grass can be left untouched.
The geogrid is spread along the entire length of the ditch. In this case, the unnecessary piece must be cut off immediately.

The most important stage is considered correct fastening. After all, then the service life will be at least twenty years. You can buy fasteners or make them yourself. To do this, use hooks made from ordinary reinforcement. The thickness should be 1.5 cm, and the length should be 50–110 cm. Such hooks are placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern.
All that remains is to secure all the cells well. Sand is suitable for a dry ditch. If it is often filled with water, then it is better to use crushed stone or river pebbles. It is even better if the slopes are sown with ground cover plants. Over time, this will create even greater adhesion to the geogrid.

The most expensive, but the most good decision can be strengthening the slopes of the ditch with the help of gabion.

Advantages of gabion

This factory product is a product made in the form of a parallelepiped from a double-torsion metal mesh and filled with large stone or crushed stone.

To make the gabion, the factory uses special galvanized wire, which also has a PVC coating. It is this that reliably protects this structure from corrosion, aggressive chemical environments and mechanical damage. Even heavy loads are not scary. Average term operation can be more than 70 years. But this affects the cost.
Therefore, it is possible to make a gabion on our own. To do this, you will need reinforcement rods with a diameter of 6 mm, as well as electric welding. In addition, you need to stock up on a tape measure, a marker, an angle grinder, a chain-link mesh, a shovel and a wheelbarrow. Cobblestones will also be required.
The design with dimensions 80×40×80 cm is suitable for small area. Reinforcing bars are welded together to form a structure rectangular shape. The width of the cells will depend on the diameter of the selected stones.

Using a shovel, it is necessary to prepare and widen the slopes of the ditch. Only then can cages be placed along the entire shore.
Each cell is filled with large cobblestones and, if necessary, several rows are installed at once.
A chain-link mesh is attached on top for better fastening. To avoid the need to change it frequently, it is better to choose a mesh that also has a PVC coating. It can be easily reinforced from above with cobblestones. In addition, this gives the entire structure a good decorative look.

Gabions can last the longest, while they fit well into the ecosystem. Manufacturers guarantee at least one hundred years of service.

Arrangement of the drainage system

Before you start strengthening the walls of the ditch, you need to properly equip the drainage system itself.

In addition to creating the desired slope, you need to correctly make the bottom of the trench. For this, sand and fine gravel are used. With their help, the necessary pillow for drainage pipe.

It is protected by a volumetric crushed stone filter, as well as geotextiles, which protect against the ingress of excess debris and soil.

Most often, ceramic or perforated asbestos-cement pipes are used for drainage. But recently, plastic gutters have also begun to be used.

Note! Don't forget about drainage well where it will drain excess water. After all, a ditch that constantly contains water begins to collapse the fastest.

Modern materials will allow all the walls of the ditch to be well strengthened, and then the threat of flooding will be reduced to almost zero.

Last revision: 05/22/2015

http://kanalizaciyavdome.ru

legkoe-delo.ru

The best ways to strengthen the slopes at your dacha

Dacha plots can be of the most intricate shape, not only in terms of their borders, but also in terms of topography. Often, these are not just flat areas on which you can build houses and plant plants, but also not particularly convenient ones, with hills, slopes and even serious cliffs.

If we talk about the standard six hundred square meters within the boundaries of the cooperative, then practically no such problems arise, but if the dacha is located outside the city, then it is often built near a forest or river. But here the terrain can change very much. That is why DachaDecor.ru today talks about the topic of slopes and slopes that need to be strengthened.

Why strengthen slopes and slopes?

Many people have avoided this task for years, and nothing... that’s what those who are used to living in the classic dacha mode will say - coming here in the summer to plant potatoes, and leaving in the fall with the harvest, until spring. Well, we are a little different, and our dacha should not only be productive, but also very attractive. And also convenient, safe and extremely practical. This means that everything that we build, create and even plant should be useful for many years. And sometimes this requires additional care.

Strengthening slopes, slopes and banks is one of these concerns, especially for summer residents who own areas with difficult terrain. Here, there may be slides of soil, slides from the top point and directly into the yard or garden, erosion of the bank and washing out of the same lawn, melting of snow into a mud pile during the spring melt, and breakdown of plants. These are just a couple of reasons that already draw attention to the complexity of the problem. But it also happens that not only does a snow cap fall from a steep hill at a dacha, bringing with it a little dirt and roots, but also multi-ton, extremely dangerous landslides that we would like to prevent.

It is clear that such precedents take place in mountainous areas, or in areas of forested areas and even former construction sites, where there are hills, ravines, pits and other non-standards that lead away from a simple and flat topography. But at our dachas there are also places that should be treated with caution. Therefore, let's study methods that will help qualitatively strengthen the slopes with our own hands.

How to strengthen a small slope with plants

If the slope does not exceed 8-10%, it is most advisable to strengthen it with plants with a strong root system. Thanks to the planting of grasses, cereals, shrubs and small trees, a living soil reinforcement is created inside the soil, which prevents landslides and unauthorized distortion of the relief.

In this regard, you should not remove plants on slopes, if there are any in your dacha. At first, after uprooting, changes may be observed, as you will disrupt the soil bond. But problems may arise in the future, when a lack of plants gives problem areas the opportunity to quickly deteriorate.

Strengthening with biomats

Plants can also be used to secure slopes up to 45%, but there are much more risks here. They exist because plants take a long time to form a root system, which must reinforce the soil. Atmospheric factors also work here - the presence of precipitation, wind, humidity associated with bodies of water located nearby or on the slope itself, as well as the groundwater level and even tremors.

Biomats are laid on the surface of the cleaned slope and evenly fixed. Next, seeds of various plants are sown over the entire area of the material, which in the near future should create a single layer with the biomats. These can be not only special flowers and herbs, but also plants for landscape design dacha area that you yourself have chosen.

Fixation with geotextiles

Geotextile is a dense material based on polyester or polypropylene fibers. It is artificial, but great for the most various works, as it is quite durable and water permeable.

Thanks to geotextiles, it is possible to strengthen slopes of 173% or 60°. Geotextiles are laid out along the slope and subsequently reinforced with special anchors. After final installation and fixation, you can always plant plants on top of the material, or decorate the slope with stone, gravel, or tiles.

Strengthening with geomats

Another way to make a high-quality and reliable slope is the use of geomats. This material, which consists of several layers of polypropylene gratings, even somewhat resembles a washcloth.

But positive side The fact is that, along with high strength, geomats are also permeable to air, water and plant roots. That is, laying geomats on a slope will not only make it possible to qualitatively strengthen it, but also, as in previous cases, plant all the necessary plants on top of the material, which will soon create a uniform and fairly dense layer.

An additional advantage of the material is the ability to use it on slopes up to 70°.

Application of geogrid

The geogrid allows you to work with exactly the same angle. It is a material made of polyester or glass, which is quite easy to work with.

Geogrid will help to quickly compact upper layer soil, which is most susceptible to landslides and various types of destruction, as well as decorating it after the main work.

The geogrid is laid in the following way: initially, the material itself is laid on a more or less prepared surface. Next, soil, sand or even crushed stone is poured into the geogrid cells. But it is most correct to put them in cells fertile soil, where you can immediately plant the plants. This will make it possible to get highest degree the strength of the slope strengthening in just a few months.

Application of geogrid

Experts say that geogrid is more reliable in use than geogrid. This material is a cellular frame that stretches over the surface. After laying on a slope, the geogrid can be fixed in different ways, but the most popular is fixation with fillers. What’s interesting is that almost anything can be used – soil, sand, pebbles, crushed stone.

Further landscaping is also possible, but, as you understand, this is possible with the use of almost any material to strengthen slopes and slopes.

Gabions on a summer cottage (video)

We strengthen the slopes with gabions

We have already talked about this topic, and also studied gabions in detail in other articles. We never tire of being amazed at the possibilities of simple metal structures filled with various materials inside. They are assembled quite simply, and can even be made independently in a summer cottage.

Regardless of the slope, gabion structures become reliable reinforcements. Only the initial condition of the problem area, as well as its height, plays a role. The larger it is, the more difficult the task ahead, but if we are not talking about mountains, but a simple dacha terrain, then any problem is reduced to nothing by gabion structures.

You can install gabions vertically or lay them at the desired angle. But it is worth remembering that they have sufficient weight not only to restrain collapsing plumbs, but also to independently slide along the surface at an angle. Therefore, it is worth reliably strengthening each structure, creating a support in the form of a foundation under the lowest one.

Slopes and retaining walls

We will not dwell on this section for long, since an interesting thematic article has already been written on the topic. Let us only point out the fact that retaining walls- an excellent choice for that summer resident who decided to combine “repair” of the soil with decorating the site. It is also worth adding that they should only be used for slopes of low height, with low soil pressure.

Other options for strengthening slopes, slopes and banks

Often the situation itself dictates to us the choice of materials for work and the solution to the problem. The reasons may be money, time, available materials, the condition of the site, its height, distance from buildings, bodies of water, or the need to combine complex work and decoration. Therefore, it is necessary to have many options at hand, by assessing the features of which it will be possible to determine the most suitable one:

If there is a difficult terrain area at the dacha, its boundaries can be strictly defined by trees. For several years they root system will “bind” a solid foundation, thanks to which the slope will remain in the state we need for a long time. But remember that fixing with biomats while planting trees will provide a good safety net;
Strengthening the required slopes can also be done with the help of logs that are dug to the required depth. Each individual case requires accurate calculations, and therefore we are not ready to state the values for the installation depth and diameter of the log now... it’s just one of the good ways;
It is also convenient to make a sloping slope in the form of steps by installing the same gabions or retaining walls sequentially, for example, along the slope every few meters. This way you will secure the area and install an original shaped design at your dacha;
Partial fastening with geomaterials is also possible, which are selected depending on the angle of the slope. Small trenches are dug under them, and geomaterial is placed at the bottom. Next, the trench is filled up, and the edge of the material leaves the ground and goes upward, as if hugging all the soil laid in the trench. At a distance of several meters from the trench, that is, above it, the edge is pinned. After just a year, you get a dense layer that is reliable due to the reinforcement with the same mesh and plant roots.

There are many more methods, but today we have described the most popular and used ones. So take them into account.

Such work with relief is considered complex and therefore requires a serious approach. We recommend drawing up a work plan in advance and making accurate calculations, making sure to select only high-quality and appropriate materials for the soil strengthening process.

To drain excess water from a country house or personal plot it is necessary to create a drainage system. With its help, you can protect the territory from waterlogging and buildings from destruction. One of the components of such a system are ditches. They may have various sizes(depth, width and length), but in any case their walls must be strengthened. Otherwise, the water will turn the ditches into real ravines, which will reduce the usable area of the site. How to strengthen a ditch at the dacha? This is exactly what the article will discuss.

Methods of strengthening

Drainage systems have existed for a long time and people have learned to strengthen their walls. There are several ways to do this. They can be divided into two types:

using scrap materials and plants;
using structures and devices made in the factory.

The walls of the ditch are strengthened using improvised means with slate, car tires, stones, and also by planting plants. This method is suitable for small ditches or low slope angles.

Various biomats, gabions, geogrids and geogrids are used when the slope angle is more than 8-15 degrees. Also, such devices are used when arranging large-width ditches.

Each strengthening method has its pros and cons. This will be discussed later.

Available means

One of the simplest and most accessible ways to strengthen the walls of a drainage ditch is to use slate. In this case, you can also use used material. The main thing is that it does not contain big holes and cracks.

The technology using slate is quite simple. Sheets (whole or cut, depending on the size of the ditch) are laid on the slopes of the ditch close to each other. This can be done either strictly vertically or at a slight slope. Then pieces of reinforcement or thin pipes are driven in on both sides of the sheets, in a checkerboard pattern.

This method has both its advantages and disadvantages. The first include the following:

low financial costs, and if used materials are used, then you can do without investments at all;
ease of installation. All work can be done by one person.

The disadvantages of this design are its fragility. It may also be damaged appearance the site itself.

Strengthening slopes using old car tires looks more aesthetically pleasing. In addition, this method allows you to make a structure that will last much longer than the slate version (up to several decades).

Here you can resort to two methods, depending on the available space. One involves stacking tires along the edges of a ditch. Soil is poured inside, but sand is better or gravel. For greater reliability, you can drive in metal pipes.

If space allows, it is better to lay the tires offset. Each top row is laid halfway down the bottom row. The result is a kind of ladder. Soil is poured inside and plants can be planted. This creates a beautiful slope.

If the ditch is small and the slope angle is less than 8 degrees, then its walls can be strengthened with the help of plants. Small bushes or perennial herbs are planted along the edges. Their roots will reliably strengthen the walls and prevent water from washing them away and turning the ditch into a large ravine.

Special devices

For more reliable and durable strengthening of the walls of the drainage ditch, special structures and devices can be used. These include:

geo- and biomats;
geogrids;
geogrids;
gabions.

Geomats and biomats are made in the form of a polymer sponge. Using high temperature, several polymer meshes are soldered together. This structure is impermeable to water, but at the same time allows plant germination.

To install such structures, it is necessary to perform the following work:

The slope is being prepared. All debris is removed from its surface and leveled. Then it is advisable to compact the surface. This is especially important if the site has sandy soil.
The material is supplied in rolls, so installation begins from the top. The geomat (or biomat) is laid at the top of the slope, the edge is secured;
Then the roll is rolled out to the base of the ditch and the excess is cut off.
The next row is laid in the same way and overlaps with the one already laid. The tolerance can be up to 15 cm.
Now the entire surface is covered with a small layer of soil and seeds of perennial grasses are added (if necessary or desired).

Another type of material for strengthening the slopes of ditches is geogrid. It is a mesh made of polymer material with a polyester base. The geogrid is cut into the required pieces and laid on a pre-prepared slope (the surface must be cleaned, level and compacted using a hand roller). The grids are laid close to each other and fastened with anchor brackets.

The mesh can be covered with a layer of soil on top and plants can be planted. Herbs such as mint, periwinkle and bryozoan work well for these purposes. These herbs will use their roots to firmly hold the covering in place.

Geogrids and gabions

More powerful structures for strengthening not only the slopes, but also the bottom of the ditch are geogrids. They are made from polypropylene and polyethylene. Such products are not afraid of corrosion, they are quite durable and can last for many decades.

Before installing them, it is necessary that the drainage ditch is dry. You also need to prepare anchor fasteners, a hammer, and fine gravel.

After draining the ditch, all debris (large branches, stones, etc.) and large vegetation are removed from the surface. In this case, small grass can be left in place. Then the geogrid is laid out. This must be done over the entire area of the channel; it is advisable to cut off the excess pieces immediately.

For long service life of the geogrid, it must be properly and securely fastened. This is done using anchor brackets or hooks. They can be purchased together with the grille or made with your own hands from reinforcing bars with a diameter of 15 mm and a length of 50 to 110 cm. The fasteners are placed in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other.

The next step will be backfilling the geogrid. You can place sand at the bottom of the ditch (if it will rarely fill with water) or crushed stone (if drains will constantly flow in the ditch). On slopes it is better to use soil sown with grass. This way the grille will stay in place more securely.

A more expensive, but also more reliable, way to strengthen the slopes of a drainage ditch is to install gabions. In addition, such designs will look more aesthetically pleasing and respectable.

A gabion is a factory product made in the form of a parallelepiped (box). The material used is double twisted metal wire. Large stones or pebbles are placed in such “boxes”.

In the production of gabions they do not use simple wire. It has a polymer coating. This protection extends the service life of the product to 70 years. At the same time, the product is not afraid of aggressive environmental influences and can withstand heavy overloads.

Before installing the gabion, it is necessary to prepare the slope. Since the product is of considerable size, excess soil is removed. The gabion is placed in place and filled with large stones or crushed stones. For greater reliability, you can attach a chain-link mesh to the top; it is advisable to choose it also with a polymer coating. For improvement decorative look You can place stones or pebbles on top of the mesh.

If you have the skills welding work And necessary equipment, then you can try to make a gabion with your own hands. Pieces of reinforcement are suitable for this. They are welded together to make a lattice. For long service life, all parts can be coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

When strengthening the slopes of drainage ditches, do not forget about the base. Here you can use sand or crushed stone, depending on the frequency of filling with water. If the ditch is small and located in a visible place, then the bottom lined with natural stones will look beautiful. A particularly beautiful effect will be achieved in combination with gabions.

Video

Another interesting way to strengthen:

A drainage ditch in a dacha is something that exists near almost every site. And it’s not uncommon for problems to arise with it, namely, its walls crumble, as a result of which it becomes, at least, not beautiful, not to mention how it copes with its function. And the function of a drainage ditch is to remove excess water generated during a flood or rainfall from the site and the buildings on it.

Before strengthening a ditch at your dacha, you need to make sure that its design corresponds to the task assigned to it; below we will consider what options there may be for constructing a ditch.

Construction of a ditch at the dacha, options

Depending on the slope of your site and the volume of water that your ditch periodically has to accept, you need to choose the type of ditch that suits your needs. In addition, you can pay attention to how your neighbor’s ditch is designed, whether he is satisfied with this solution; perhaps it would be better to make them the same and thereby provide a common storm drainage system near your plots. The picture below schematically shows the main types of ditch construction in a dacha and options for strengthening it.

An effective drainage system is not limited to just a ditch, it must consist of at least two independent networks

One of them is a linear sewer system, described in detail in this article. Typically, such a sewer system is built when the site is constantly flooded. The top point of such a sewer system is marked, depending on the slope of the site, and a network of channels is drawn from it; the channels themselves have a slope of at least 5 mm relative to the top point for each meter of the channel. Thus, all water from the site is collected in an open drainage system
The second is drainage around the house, described in detail here. For him, the top point will be the far corner of the building. The drainage network, arranged around the perimeter, is also made with a slope of the same 5-10 mm per meter, it is covered with turf or paving slabs

What methods exist for strengthening a ditch in a dacha?

The chosen method of strengthening the ditch depends on the slope of its walls. Depending on this angle, the following methods of strengthening are divided:

Strengthening the ditch with improvised materials

The simplest and most affordable material for strengthening the walls of a ditch is slate. What it looks like finished

To build such a structure, we will need the slate sheets themselves, metal pipes or fittings, a sledgehammer to drive them in, of course, a shovel, and possibly a crowbar. And also a grinder for cutting slate sheets into the required identical pieces; it won’t hurt to wear a respirator; there will be a lot of dust when cutting. Cut slate sheets are placed directly into the ground to a depth of about 30 centimeters, and the sheets should fit tightly to each other. Pipes or fittings are needed to secure the positions of the slate sheets; they are driven in in a checkerboard pattern on both sides of the sheets.

Another material that is widely used by summer residents due to its availability is car tires. Old tires are laid in rows and fastened together with bolts or ties, the voids inside the tires are filled with soil or sand and gravel, and to give even greater strength to this structure, metal rods are hammered into the middle.

Geomats and geogrids

First, let's figure out what geomats, biomats and geogrids are. So, geomats and biomats are polymers with a waterproof structure; they are made from polypropylene lattices superimposed on each other at high temperature. This structure allows plants to penetrate through them, but at the same time it remains waterproof. Let's look at an approximate scheme for laying geomats on a slope:

Geogrid is a polymer mesh with a square cell, usually on a polyester base. An approximate layout of its installation:

Rigid geogrid for ditch reinforcement

Geogrid is a stronger and more durable solution than all those described above, geogrid is made from polyethylene and polypropylene, this material is not susceptible to corrosion and can last a very long time. Geogrid is used in very deep ditches, almost ravines.

Let's consider an approximate scheme for strengthening a ditch slope with a geogrid:

1. Slope preparation, similar to geomats and geogrids

2. It is necessary to stretch the geogrid along the entire slope of the ditch and, if necessary, cut off the excess

Strengthening the ditch with gabion

This is the most durable and strong, but expensive material for strengthening the walls of ditches and more; factory products can be of almost any shape. Essentially, this is a metal grid filled with stones made of galvanized wire with PVC coating for additional protection against corrosion. By the way, gabion is translated from French as a basket with stones.

Using gabion as a material for strengthening a ditch is a very expensive proposition, so in this case we will not provide a diagram of its installation. With a factory gabion, it is advisable to order its installation on site from specialists; as a rule, such companies work this way. But the result is pleasing to the eye; if aesthetics and high-quality performance are important in this matter, despite the relatively high price, then this will be the best choice. In addition, manufacturers guarantee 70 years of service for such structures.

It is quite easy to arrange drainage around your site to remove excess moisture. It is important to choose the optimal format according to which the drainage ditch along the fence will be prepared, and to determine the required set of materials and tools.

Problems to be solved:

In areas with high rainfall, soil erosion is a problem;
With high groundwater flow in the area, the soil is waterlogged;
With the natural slope of the site, all the water accumulates in the lower part and “pulls” the entire fertile layer of soil with it;
In hilly and mountainous areas, depending on the season, a huge volume of water falls on the site from the area higher up the slope;
Atmospheric precipitation from road surface accumulate under the fence along the perimeter of the site and are capable of washing away the base and supports of the fence.

In all of the above situations optimal solution– arrangement of drainage ditches or a productive hidden drainage system around the perimeter of the site.

The main purpose of a drainage ditch is to collect surface atmospheric precipitation and their removal from the site.

However, it is not used to transport excess water, it is rather a localized drainage field where excess water accumulates and is gradually absorbed into the soil without bringing negative consequences for buildings and the fertile soil layer of the site.

Kinds

There are three types of drainage:

open;
closed, laying perforated pipes with backfill;
backfill, the ditch is filled with coarse gravel and filter fills for rapid drainage of water.

To arrange drainage under the fence around the site from the outside, the easiest way is to use open drainage ditches with reinforced slopes and a stable slope, so that all excess water from the site and adjacent areas, including the road surface, quickly goes to the depth of groundwater or is transported to the drainage field, drainage well.

Among the main advantages:

small amount of land work;
minimum materials;
a wide range of slope strengthening options;
a simple way to maintain, clean and prevent drainage.

Requirements. Distance from fence

For any drainage systems aimed at reclamation of a private plot, the standards are SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85. The optimal slopes for organizing a drainage ditch, the distance to the fence and other structures, as well as design options depending on the required throughput and characteristics of the drained area, such as the general slope, soil type, etc., are discussed.

For a flat area or with a slight slope of up to five degrees to the horizon, the additional slope along the bottom of the ditch should be 3-5 ‰ (ppm), which corresponds to a difference in height of 3-5 cm for every 10 m.

In fact, the quality of the slope and its uniformity are determined on site during the preparation of the trench. It is difficult to ensure the shape of the trench with high accuracy, so you will have to adjust its geometry during the operation of the drainage.

It is important that the drainage ditch is located at a distance from fence posts and supporting structures so as not to erode their base. It is enough to move the upper border from the plane of the fence by 30-50 cm, and when arranging reinforcement of the walls, compact the soil so that water does not wash under the fence.

Methods for strengthening walls

The drainage ditch only partially acts as a transport system; the water entering it must be effectively absorbed into the soil along the entire length of the ditch bottom. It is not advisable to use concrete sections or otherwise reinforce the bottom.

It is permissible to use a rigid waterproof base only if there are underground communications running underneath it, which should be protected from the effects of precipitation and groundwater.

Effective ways to strengthen slopes:

During excavation work and preparation of the base of the ditch, an extended pit is dug approximately twice as wide as necessary. A cushion of coarse sand or gravel is poured along the bottom.

Slopes are compacted manually or mechanically, covered with the material selected for reinforcement. Next, a layer of soil is poured in the same way with tamping and compaction, only at a lesser intensity.

Calculation

In order for the drainage ditch to cope with the task, several important rules must be followed:

The depth of the ditch along its entire length must be greater than the depth of the foundation nearby buildings by 300-500 mm;
The slope along its entire length, taking into account turns or a detour along the perimeter of the site, is directed to one point or along the lower border of the site;
The slope is determined by the composition of the soil and the calculated throughput and ranges from 1 to 5 cm for every 10 meters of length.

If there is a drainage well located at a distance from the contour of the drainage ditch, you should take the extreme point of the drainage system distant from the well and calculate the depth, and then calculate the control points located along the route that will be used for drainage correct geometry ditches.

With your own hands

It’s quite easy to build a ditch with your own hands, even if you do most of the digging work by hand. However, the difficulty will be caused by the presence of a large volume of selected soil along the length of the ditch.

It can be used to arrange a front garden around the perimeter of the site so that it is raised above general level soil.

The easiest way is to use the option of reinforcing the slopes with biomats, geomats, mesh or geotexile. In this case, there is no need to excessively compact the soil under the base; you can limit yourself to a small volume of loose drainage, sand or gravel, which will significantly reduce the load on the contractor.

Price

A drainage ditch can be organized efficiently, quickly and aesthetically using heavy rafter equipment.

IN minimum volume you will need an excavator that will dig the base for a ditch in a matter of hours and at the same time it will be easier to adjust the shape and geometry of the slopes, and the depth of the base.

The executing company will prepare a work project and estimate in advance so as not to guess about the actual cost of the work and count on a guaranteed result.

The main burden on the budget of this event may come from the preparation of a drainage well, if it is necessary, the rest of the work is much cheaper.

How to strengthen a ditch at the dacha

Many summer residents face this problem when arranging their territory. The presence of groundwater and swampy soil lead to the creation of a drainage system. Moreover, flooding of the site occurs for other reasons. Stormy rains or heavy melting of snow in the spring lead to flooding of the house, basement or other utility rooms.

But before you strengthen a ditch in your dacha, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with its structure and choose the most suitable option for fastening the walls.

Ditch construction

Creating an effective drainage system requires the presence of at least two independent networks.

Linear is designed to drain the area itself. Usually it is erected when constant flooding occurs. The branches of closed ditches should be spread from the top topographic point, while ensuring a slope of 5–10 mm per meter. All water goes into the open drainage system.
A second independent network should protect the foundation and basement of the house. Here the reference point is the far corner of the building. The drainage ditch along the perimeter should also have a slight drop in level of 0.5 percent. To cover it, use turf or concrete paving slabs.
Any trench in this system must be at least 50 cm deep and wide. Near the foundation this figure may be higher. To construct drains, a simple method is used: fascines (these are bundles of twigs and branches) or wooden boxes.
To strengthen the bottom, gravel, crushed stone or simply sand of different fractions are often used. But at the same time, the walls of the ditch periodically settle and crumble. Today there are several effective ways to avoid this.

Basic methods of strengthening

Before choosing a reliable method, you should carefully measure the angle of inclination of the ditch walls.

If the slope angle does not exceed 8%, then it will be quite enough to strengthen it with the help of various plants.
Biomats or geogrids are used at a steepness of 8 to 15%.
If the angle exceeds 15%, then you cannot do without geogrids and gabions. True, at shallow depths, you can simply use stones and drive them into the slope.

Use of slate and tires

One of the easiest ways to strengthen the wall of a ditch can be ordinary slate.

In addition to sheets, you will need metal pipes or fittings, a shovel and a crowbar, as well as an angle grinder and a respirator.
Using a grinder, the sheets are cut into equal pieces. They are placed directly into the ground to a depth of 25–30 cm straight or with a slight slope. The sheets should fit snugly against each other.
Reinforcing bars are driven in on both sides in a checkerboard pattern. It is best if they are treated with an anti-corrosion compound or paint beforehand.
Western builders have come up with another inexpensive way to strengthen it using car tires. Old tires can be laid in rows and secured together. The stakes hammered into the middle will give additional strength. The space inside can be filled with soil, but it is better to use sand or fine gravel. It is also useful for voids between tires.
There is another way. Tires can be stacked in several rows. In this case, each overlying one shifts by half the diameter. Then the tires are also covered. Using tires is very cheap, especially if you can get them for free or for next to nothing.

Of course, you can’t count on a too long service life, so it’s worth taking a closer look at more expensive but reliable materials.

Installation of geomats and geogrids

Geo- and biomats are nothing more than polymers with a waterproof structure. Polypropylene gratings are superimposed on each other under the influence of high temperature. This structure is more reminiscent of a sponge, but this is done so that various plants can grow through the holes.

The first step is to prepare the slope itself. It is necessary not only to level it, but also to clear it of any debris.
Geomats are sold in rolls, so the top edge is aligned with the top of the ditch and secured there with anchor bolts.
The roll is rolled out to the bottom, and then cut and secured with anchors.
The next roll should overlap with a tolerance of about 15 cm.
Then you will need to cover everything with a small layer of soil and use the seeds for sowing. Usually 40 grams per m² is enough.
Geogrid is also available in rolls. It has a polyester base and square cells. For installation you will need a tape measure, a marker, scissors, a hammer, as well as a rake and a hand roller.
It is with the help of a roller that the slope surfaces are well compacted and leveled.

Each roll must be cut into a certain number of pieces, and then laid tightly on the slope directly next to each other. For fastening, metal anchor rods or staples are used. They are especially needed in places where there is a high probability of strong winds.
The geogrid is also covered with a layer of soil and plants such as periwinkle, mint or bryozoan are planted. True, you can simply use small crushed stones or pebbles.

But for stronger strengthening, the use of geogrid will be required.

Geogrid installation

Its basis is polypropylene and polyethylene. This alone suggests that this is a very highly durable and durable product. In addition, the geogrid is not afraid of corrosion and can last for many years.

Since geogrid cells can be stretched both in length and width, they adhere tightly to the soil or crushed stone. In addition to the rolls, you will need anchors, scissors, a hammer, as well as fine gravel and sand. A pump may be needed.
Installation work can only be carried out when the drainage ditch is not filled with water and all slopes are completely dry. Therefore, you will have to not only pump out the water, but also prepare the surface. It is necessary to remove all debris, large stones and branches. In this case, small grass can be left untouched.
The geogrid is spread along the entire length of the ditch. In this case, the unnecessary piece must be cut off immediately.

The most important step is correct fastening. After all, then the service life will be at least twenty years. You can buy fasteners or make them yourself. To do this, use hooks made from ordinary reinforcement. The thickness should be 1.5 cm, and the length should be 50–110 cm. Such hooks are placed at a distance of 30 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern.
All that remains is to secure all the cells well. Sand is suitable for a dry ditch. If it is often filled with water, then it is better to use crushed stone or river pebbles. It is even better if the slopes are sown with ground cover plants. Over time, this will create even greater adhesion to the geogrid.

The most expensive, but most successful solution may be to strengthen the slopes of the ditch with the help of gabion.

Advantages of gabion

This factory product is a product made in the form of a parallelepiped from a double-torsion metal mesh and filled with large stone or crushed stone.

To make the gabion, the factory uses special galvanized wire, which also has a PVC coating. It is this that reliably protects this structure from corrosion, aggressive chemical environments and mechanical damage. Even heavy loads are not scary. The average service life can be more than 70 years. But this affects the cost.
Therefore, you can make a gabion on your own. To do this, you will need reinforcement rods with a diameter of 6 mm, as well as electric welding. In addition, you need to stock up on a tape measure, a marker, an angle grinder, a chain-link mesh, a shovel and a wheelbarrow. Cobblestones will also be required.
A design with dimensions of 80x40x80 cm is suitable for a small area. The reinforcing bars are welded together to form a rectangular structure. The width of the cells will depend on the diameter of the selected stones.

Using a shovel, it is necessary to prepare and widen the slopes of the ditch. Only then can cages be placed along the entire shore.
Each cell is filled with large cobblestones and, if necessary, several rows are installed at once.
A chain-link mesh is attached on top for better fastening. To avoid the need to change it frequently, it is better to choose a mesh that also has a PVC coating. It can be easily reinforced from above with cobblestones. In addition, this gives the entire structure a good decorative look.

Gabions can last the longest, while they fit well into the ecosystem. Manufacturers guarantee at least one hundred years of service.

Arrangement of the drainage system

Before you start strengthening the walls of the ditch, you need to properly equip the drainage system itself.

In addition to creating the desired slope, you need to correctly make the bottom of the trench. For this, sand and fine gravel are used. With their help, the necessary cushion for the drainage pipe is made.

It is protected by a volumetric crushed stone filter, as well as geotextiles, which protect against the ingress of excess debris and soil.

Most often, ceramic or perforated asbestos-cement pipes are used for drainage. But recently, plastic gutters have also begun to be used.

Note! Do not forget about the drainage well, where excess water will drain. After all, a ditch that constantly contains water begins to collapse the fastest.

Modern materials will make it possible to strengthen all the walls of the ditch well, and then the threat of flooding will be reduced to almost zero.