Almost every gardener sooner or later asks himself the question of how and when to spray trees in the garden at the dacha.
Naturally, working in my orchard and caring for trees, I would like to receive gratitude for my work, in the form of a good harvest.
But if you do not fight diseases of fruit trees and their pests, the fruits will be affected, and your efforts will be in vain.
Caring for the safety of the future harvest and itself orchard starts from early spring throughout summer to late autumn.
One of the types of tree and shrub maintenance is spraying them. This procedure helps gardeners get rid of many pests: caterpillars, annelids, aphids, flower beetles, scab, hawthorn, powdery mildew, etc.
When to spray trees
Trees in the garden at the dacha and shrubs are sprayed at least three times per season: in early spring processing is carried out from pests, many of which survived the winter safely, the second during the appearance of leaves, to destroy awakening pests, and the third after flowering, again from pests.
Although, ideally, the trees should be sprayed 2 times a month, because the solution acts so long on average, unless of course there were heavy rains.
But we should not forget that spraying of fruit trees and shrubs should be stopped 3 weeks before harvesting, and in general it is better not to apply chemistry to the formed fruits.
It is advisable to spray shrubs less often, for example, raspberries, on which an ovary has appeared, are not sprayed at all. It is necessary to spray trees and shrubs in dry and preferably calm weather, in the evening.
How to properly spray trees
To prepare for spraying, the trunk is cleaned with a brush from moss and lichens. This operation assists in the formation of young shoots and is beneficial for the general revitalization of the tree's growth.
You can spray as by hand and an automated sprayer. Spray correctly the entire tree to the very top.
For proper spraying of trees in the country, so that the product falls with fine dew, the sprayer tip must be kept at a distance of 75 cm from the leaves and other parts of the tree.
The jet from the apparatus is directed to the center of each large branch in order to achieve the maximum processing effect.
It would also not be bad if the neighbors at the dacha also processed their trees and shrubs. In this case, the efficiency of your work will increase several times.
Most of the work in the garden is devoted to maintaining the optimal state of decorative green spaces and cultivated plants... Pest control, disease prevention, increasing fertility and other measures to take care of the dacha flora are mandatory in household work on the site. Trees and shrubs are perhaps the least demanding to maintain, nevertheless, regular spraying is necessary condition for their development and beautiful bloom... And fruit and berry varieties will provide the summer resident with natural delicacies, but again, subject to competently prepared spring spraying.
Time and conditions
Many gardeners and summer residents take care of trees along with other work on the site. In other words, when time permits. But to get the highest effect, you should not rely only on your personal schedule. Experienced farmers recommend spring spraying of fruit trees and shrubs after the snow has completely melted and warm weather has restored. At the time of processing, the temperature must be at least +5 ° C. By time, two periods can be noted - the beginning of March and the middle of April. Spraying at the very beginning of spring is aimed at destroying microorganisms when the buds are just beginning to grow. In April, the preparations will provide protection for apples, apricots, pears and other trees from insects, bugs and fungal diseases. May spraying is also possible, after flowering.
Technical means
Traditions of domestic dacha farming involve the use homemade devices and spraying devices. Converted watering cans, cans and buckets eliminate the cost of special equipment. But this path is questionable in terms of efficiency and safety. Since spraying fruit trees, shrubs, and also cultivated plants requires accuracy and sometimes spot treatment, it is more expedient to use specialized units. Firstly, they are more convenient, and secondly, they do not pose a danger to the user. The main thing is to correlate the requirements for chemical processing specific garden and vegetation with the parameters of the apparatus.
Cordless, gasoline, manual and automatic models allow effective spring spraying of fruit trees and shrubs with a poisonous substance, eliminating the risk of burns or poisoning. Some devices also come with extension cords and other accessories that allow access to hard-to-reach areas.
How to spray?
Despite the development of the chemical industry, the set of preparations for treating garden vegetation has not fundamentally changed for decades. However, some modifications based on traditional preparations make modern spraying of trees and shrubs in spring more efficient and safer.
The most common remedies include the following:
- copper sulfate;
- lime milk;
- insectoacaricide (the so-called 30B drug);
- soap-ash mixture (urea).
The choice of a specific spray agent is made on the basis of the effect that is required to be obtained: the destruction of pests, the prevention of diseases, an increase in fertility, etc. a certain kind and a type of tree or shrub.
Spraying with copper sulfate
This is one of the most famous formulations, which professionals also call. Despite the popularity of the remedy, few know how to spray trees with copper sulfate in order to maximize the effect.
Vitriol should be applied before the buds have blossomed, that is, in early spring. The three percent solution has the following recipe: for 10 liters of water, 300 g of vitriol directly and 400 g lime base... With regard to the use of pears and apple trees in processing, the effectiveness of the fight against scab is noted. In the case of plums and cherries, it shows itself well against clasterosporia and coccomycosis. Shrubs also protect with this remedy, for example, blackberries and raspberries can be eliminated from spotting.
Spraying with milk of lime
This solution will help maintain health, fertility and in late frost conditions. A properly prepared spraying of trees and shrubs in spring with milk of lime will delay flowering for a week, but will save the buds from death. During processing, a thin calcareous layer forms on the branches, which prevents the growth and development of eggs, pupae and larvae of pests remaining after wintering. The solution is prepared from water and fresh lime. Optimal combination: for 10 liters, 1.5 kg of active mixture.
Spraying with urea
Quite common in farms experienced summer residents and urea, which is a soap-ash mixture. It is prepared in this way: for 10 liters of water, 1 kg of sifted wood ash. The mixture is boiled, after which it must be cooled, filtered and allowed to settle. But before you spray fruit trees in the spring with a soap-ash mixture, you must add to it green soap(20 g) and directly urea (30 g).
Insectoacaricide in spraying
This is a relatively new agent in Russia, which was approved for use in private households in 2013. Summer residents and gardeners know it as the drug 30B. Among its advantages are environmental friendliness and versatility in the fight against various garden pests... In addition, the strong effect of the insectoacaricide allows you to cope with biological problems in old gardens, where the plantings have been exposed to insect nesting for years.
With this tool, not only spring spraying is possible fruit trees but also processing ornamental shrubs... The procedure is performed once a season, usually before bud break. It is important to consider temperature regime: as indicated in the instructions, the thermometer should not show less than +4 ° С.
Spraying with diesel fuel and iron vitriol
Also, in some cases, diesel fuel is used and due to the specificity of the action, they are less common, but in the same neglected gardens they can protect the flora from unwanted animals. The advantages of diesel fuel include a powerful effect - covering branches and crowns with a film, it excludes any damage by insects and kills the larvae left under the bark. But it is important to know how to spray fruit trees and shrubs in the spring with this tool.
The fact is that diesel fuel is a petroleum product, so the concentration should be as gentle as possible. In addition, with regard to some particularly capricious decorative varieties its use is not recommended, as the film closes the pores of the plant.
Iron vitriol, in turn, in addition to the protective function, supplies plants with useful trace elements. When the spring spraying of fruit trees and shrubs is carried out, it is worth treating the soil with vitriol as well - the iron entering the ground acts as a recharge and promotes the production of chlorophyll.
How is spraying performed?
Since the event involves working with chemically hazardous solutions and preparations, you should prepare a respirator or multi-layer glasses and gloves (preferably rubber). Despite special protective equipment, during work, direct contact with the compound used must be avoided.
Before starting the spring spraying of fruit trees and shrubs, you need to inspect the branches and trunks. Lichens and moss should not remain on them - removal is done with a metal brush. Next, you need to assess the condition and readiness of the sprayer. The progress of work should be planned in advance, comparing the availability of high-growing branches with the capabilities of the apparatus. If everything is ready for processing, you can fill in chemical composition into the appropriate compartment.
It should be sprayed evenly on the surface of the pillar, branches and foliage. As noted, tillage may also be required, but this is the last thing. In order for the coverage of the irrigation to be uniform and the solution is not spread too thickly, it is necessary to maintain an optimal distance, as a rule, 80 cm. When the work is completed, all elements of the sprayer are thoroughly washed. You should also wash your face and hands with antibacterial soap and rinse your mouth.
In spring, you can start treating trees at temperatures from + 4C °. The procedures are carried out in calm and dry weather. The rain that has passed after spraying can wash off the active ingredients of many drugs. Before spraying, the trees are prepared: old branches are removed, pruned, the moss is carefully cleaned from the old bark with a metal brush. Fallen leaves all around trunk circle removed. For spraying, choose the morning or evening of a cloudy day. Most drugs have toxicity classes and are dangerous if inhaled and in contact with human skin, therefore, processing is carried out in special protective clothing.
After pruning the branches and before spraying, all cracks and cuts should be treated with garden pitch, allowing the cuts to dry.
Spraying should be carried out immediately after the preparation of the working liquid, if you spend time and do not use the ready-made solution, it can produce the opposite effect, become safe for pests and dangerous for the plant. It is not worth storing drugs for future use, most of them are poorly stored or caked.
Spraying trees
Important! Trees are sprayed not only on the branches, but also on the soil around, which can also contain spores of pests and diseases.
Spraying calendar
- The first treatment is carried out in early spring on dormant buds. With the beginning of the growing season, insects and their larvae wintering on trees and in the soil awaken. At this time, high concentrations of processing drugs are used. For example, a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid is used.
- The second treatment is carried out according to the so-called "green cone", the period of budding. At this time, trees can be affected by leaf-eating, leaf-sucking insects, scab. At this time, drugs such as Spark, copper sulfate are used.
- The treatments are repeated in May, after flowering and at the beginning of the formation of the ovary. The period after flowering is one of the most important for spraying, because during this time, harmful insects are actively spreading. During previous treatments, not all pests may die. Spraying is carried out after inspecting the tree. Solutions copper sulfate and 1% Bordeaux mixture, then what can be sprayed on the fruit tree after flowering.
The spraying calendar can be used general or separate for each fruit tree. When determining the time for processing, one should also focus on climatic conditions, taking into account different terms the beginning of the growing season in Krasnodar Territory and Siberia.
Spraying can be repeated several times during the season, depending on the state of the garden, with severe lesions, their number can reach 5 times, and only folk remedies can be used for prevention.
Means for spraying fruit trees
When choosing when and how to spray fruit trees and shrubs in spring, one should distinguish between their action. So, insecticides are aimed at destroying harmful insects, and fungicides are designed to fight tree diseases. When using, it is important to consider the compatibility of drugs.
The means for processing have a systemic and contact effect. The contact effect is when the pathogen comes into contact with the drug. The drug has an effect where it is directly applied. Spray these chemicals on both the top and bottom of the sheet.
Means for spraying fruit trees
With systemic action, the agent can spread over the entire size of the plant, including the growing parts, and also penetrate inside. There are mixed preparations in which both actions are combined.
Consumption of solution for spraying: per tree usually requires from 2 to 5 liters of liquid, depending on the size of the crown.
Popular sprays:
- Boric acid - used to control garden pests, and also increases the number of ovaries on fruit trees. Sprayed with solution boric acid trees during blooming, should be re-treated one week after the first spraying. Boron dissolves only in hot water, at the rate of 10 g per 10 liters of water.
- Bi 58 is a new generation insecticidal preparation with systemic contact action. It is produced in the form of an emulsion concentrate for dilution in water. The working solution is prepared at the rate of: 10 ml of emulsion per 10-20 liters of water. The solution must be mixed thoroughly. Consumption rate per tree ready solution- from 2 to 5 liters. The drug is moderately toxic, dangerous for bees, therefore, treatments are not carried out during flowering. Has a specific smell. Spraying times for different trees: before and after flowering. Combines well with various fungicides for complex treatment.
- Urea or urea is used to combat scab, fungal and viral diseases... Sprinkle trees on bare branches. Urea in the amount of 500-600 g is diluted in 10 liters of water, you can additionally add 50 g of copper sulfate to the solution, which increases the effectiveness of the mixture. Filter the solution so as not to clog the nebulizer device.
- Copper and iron vitriol is used for diseases of pome and stone fruit trees, such as diseases of the trunk and branches, moniliosis, scab, various spots. The concentration of the copper sulfate solution is prepared, depending on the type of tree. For the treatment of apple trees, pears and quince, the solution is prepared at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water. For spraying plums, cherries, cherries, peaches and apricots, the concentration will be lower, at the rate of 50 g per 10 liters of water. The consumption rate of ferrous sulfate is 500 g per 10 liters of water.
- Bordeaux mixture is used to prepare Bordeaux liquid, a popular fungicide for fighting scab, powdery mildew, gray rot, purple spot, coccomycosis, clotterosporiosis, moniliosis. The mixture contains three components: slaked lime, copper sulfate and water. Ready-made compositions for dilution with water are on sale. You can prepare the mixture yourself. Use 1% and 3% solution dosage. For spring spraying, a 3% solution is recommended, for this use three sachets ready mix 10 liters of water. For self-preparation of a 3% solution, take: 300 g of lime, 300 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water. The peculiarity of the preparation consists in the preliminary mixing of the components with water, first separately and their further combination. Bordeaux liquid is used separately from other protective equipment.
Bordeaux liquid
Important! When mixing the compositions that make up the Bordeaux liquid, the copper sulfate solution is carefully poured into the lime solution, but not vice versa.
- Fitosporin is a biofungicide based on live bacteria. The activity of microorganisms of the drug destroys rot, black leg and late blight. Important features preparation and use of the drug is that chlorinated water is not used to prepare the solution, in which bacteria die. After preparing the solution, it is left for several hours to activate the bacteria. The drug is not used in conjunction with alkaline-based products. Fitosporin is not used in sunny weather - bright sunlight is harmful to the microorganisms contained in the drug. The solution is prepared at the rate of 5 g of phytosporin powder per 10 liters of water. The drug is harmless to humans and after processing, the fruits can be eaten immediately.
Increased dosages of many products can cause tree burns; when choosing a new product, it is recommended to make a test solution in a small amount and treat part of the tree with it. In case of a bad reaction, reduce the proportion of the product.
Which fungicides are best for treating trees
In order to combine treatments against pests and diseases, insecticides are used in conjunction with fungicides. Fitosporin M, which contains gumi, and Zircon are growth promoters, each of which can be combined with pest control agents.
In addition to phytosporin, fungicides such as:
- Abiga-Peak is a drug that is used to spray almost all fruit trees... This remedy is effective in treating fungal infections. The solution is prepared in plastic, enamel or glass containers.
- HOM is a contact fungicide produced in powder form. Effective remedy from many diseases of the garden. Dissolves at the rate of 40 g of powder per 10 liters of water. Mix first in a small amount of water, then bring to full volume. Consumption per tree - 5 liters.
- Topaz is a systemic fungicide, the action of which begins 3 hours after treatment. The active ingredient is penconazole. Topaz is used against powdery mildew and rust, as well as gray and fruit rot. The drug is diluted at the rate of 2 ml of the agent for 10 liters of water for use against powdery mildew and 4 ml of the agent for 10 liters of water against rust. top scores the drug shows with prophylactic use at the beginning of the growing season, as well as at the first signs of the disease. The interval between treatments is observed in 7-14 days.
During the flowering period, the harsh odors of spray protectors scare off beneficial pollinating insects. Some products have warnings about the danger to bees. Therefore, in spraying calendars, the periods are divided into before flowering of fruit trees and after, including autumn treatments.
Some fungicides, such as Skor and Fitosporin, are approved for use at various stages of plant development, including flowering.
Fruit trees are sprayed to control pests and insects, and to increase budding. Timely garden protection measures increase yields and help preserve trees. Varieties resistant to certain diseases and a garden not damaged by pests are also recommended to be treated for preventive purposes. After all, the appearance of adverse factors is unpredictable and often associated with weather conditions.
Spring is the time when all living things awaken. Including garden pests - in the spring they are still not too active, but if you do not take care of the seedlings and mature trees in time, future harvest will be under threat. Attention should be paid not only to spraying plants in the spring from bugs, midges and infections. A considerable threat to crops is carried by mole rats - the gardener cannot do without fighting them, because these animals are extremely gluttonous.
Treatment of plants in spring: what and when to spray trees
Pest control in the spring comes to the fore for gardeners. At the end of April, according to long-term average data, in the conditions of our zone, black cherry aphids hatch on and red viburnum. Do not be late with the processing of plants in the spring. Any insecticide approved for gardeners will kill the aphids while they have not rolled the leaves of the young shoots.
Take a closer look at the young leaves, it will appear soon gall aphid which causes them to swell and redden. Try to keep the chemical solution on the underside of the leaf while spraying.
How to spray shrubs in the spring from pests and diseases to flowering bush?
- Spray gooseberries with Topaz or Fast, from powdery mildew to flowering bush. In April, all fruit and berry crops are necessarily sprayed from rose leaf rollers and weevils.
- To prevent pests from getting used to pesticides, alternate the treatment from pests in the spring with preparations of different active substances.
The flower beetle is especially dangerous for. Sometimes up to 80% of the buds are damaged by this pest, interior which are eaten away by larvae. Such buds do not bloom, and the petals look like brown caps.
Apple blossom beetle- one of the many weevils - wintered in cracks in the bark or top layer soil and now leaves the wintering grounds and climbs trees. He gnaws deep wounds in the kidneys, from which droplets of juice are released ("crying kidneys"). Without treating the trees in spring, the harvest may be at risk.
During the budding period, the females lay one egg in the buds. If fruit trees are not processed in spring, one female can damage up to 100 buds. That is why, having found weevils on trees, they are sprayed with chemicals in order to destroy them.
Leaf rollers - dangerous pests plants, especially in spring... If spraying is not carried out in the spring from this pest, the plants may die.
When to spray trees against pests in the spring so as not to miss the moment?
It is better to process the plants from the leaf roll until the end of April, but if you did not have time, do it in the first days of May.
Treat trees and shrubs in the spring in the evening: caterpillars, which have already managed to hide in young leaves, will come out closer to night to damage the ovaries and other leaves and meet with pesticides.
In the morning, check your work: after dying, the caterpillars hang from the branches in garlands on cobwebs.
On the buds (before flowering), it's time to process pome trees (apples and pears) against the scab, which causes great harm harvest. For the simultaneous destruction of the hatched leafworm and numerous weevil beetles, spraying can be combined with any insecticide.
Spraying the garden in spring from pests: how to treat fruit trees in April
Below is a table of how to treat fruit trees in the spring from pests and in what days of April it is better to do this:
|
April days |
Culture |
Pest or disease |
Spraying preparations |
Notes (edit) |
|
All trees and shrubs |
Prevention of fungal diseases, mosses and lichens |
Copper sulfate 100-150 g per 10 l of water |
Spraying before bud break, if not carried out at the end of March |
|
|
Grape |
Bacterial cancer, spotted necrosis, anthracnose |
Iron vitriol 200 g per 10 l of water |
Spraying the vine and the soil under it before bud break |
|
|
Apples, pears and other crops |
Californian scale insect, copperhead, mites, weevils, flower beetles |
Iskra-M, Fufanon, Iskra Double Effect, Karbofos, Aliot or Biotlin |
Before flowering is required. With a strong infestation of pests, carry out the treatment twice: at the beginning and at the end of the specified period |
|
|
Currant |
Red-headed aphid |
Commander, Bison, Tanrek, Iskra Zolotaya, Inta-Vir or other insecticides |
On the blossoming buds and the first leaves, repeat if necessary |
|
|
Gooseberry |
Powdery mildew |
Topaz, Speed or Raek |
Twice: at the beginning and end of the specified period, but before flowering |
|
|
Curly leaves |
Before and after flowering |
|||
|
Apricot, cherries |
Manilia, klyasternosporia |
Horus, Cuprolux, Abiga-Pikili Ordan |
After flowering, if the trees were sick last year |
|
|
All fruit crops |
Leaf roll |
Every year, during this period, hatching and the beginning of feeding of the pest take place. |
||
|
Sweet cherry, viburnum, cherry |
Cherry aphid (black) |
Any of the above insecticides |
When a pest appears |
|
|
Apple tree, pear |
Skor, Horus, Raek, Abiga-Peak, Ordan or Cuprolux |
Unstable varieties before flowering according to the "rose bud" |
||
|
Vegetable crops |
Soil pests |
Terradox, Pochin, Provotox, Grizzly, Barguzin or Thunder |
Attention! During the flowering period in spring, the treatment of trees from pests with chemicals cannot be carried out!
Protecting trees in the spring from pests and caring for the garden in May
In May, cabbage and onion flies begin to fly. They lay white oblong eggs 1 mm long on plant stems at the root collar, on onions - sometimes between leaves, and most importantly - near plants under lumps of earth. Depending on the air temperature and soil moisture, larvae (small white worms) develop from the eggs in 5-10 days. They are introduced into the lower part of the stem and roots of cabbage, and through the bottom or base of the leaves into the bulb. In both cases, the normal development of plants is disrupted, and with severe damage, young plants die.
Deterrent agents - tobacco dust, wood ash... If the larvae do appear, use "Bazudin" or other preparations in which the active ingredient is diazinon to treat the garden from pests in the spring.
Apple moth. The main pest of apple fruits, which must be dealt with in May. Distributed everywhere. It is a small butterfly with a wingspan of 15 to 20 mm. The forewings are elongated, dark gray, with numerous transverse wavy lines. The harmful stage is a pinkish or whitish caterpillar with a pale brown head, up to 12-18 mm long.
Caterpillars overwinter in dense silky cocoons under old peeled bark, in its cracks on the trunk and main branches, in hollows and cracks of backwaters, in sheds and fruit storage rooms, in the surface layer of the soil and under leaves. Without tree protection in spring, crops can be compromised.
During the period of staining of apple buds, caterpillars pupate in the same places where they hibernated. Butterflies emerge 2-3 weeks after pupation. After ten days, butterflies lay eggs on leaves and fruits. One female lays up to 100 or more eggs. After 8-10 days, caterpillars hatch, which penetrate the fruits, make passages in the pulp, get to the seed chamber of the fruit and gnaw out the seeds. The fruits become wormy and fall off prematurely. In conditions North Caucasus the codling moth develops in two generations. Caterpillars of the first generation hatch at the end of May, and the second - at the end of June - in the first decade of July.
For the treatment of fruit trees in the spring from pests, it is recommended to spray during the hatching period of caterpillars with one of the insecticides: (Aliot, Iskra Double Effect, Iskra-M, Senpai, Fufanon-Nova, Karate, Kinmiks " and etc.).
V autumn period before whitewashing boles, the old dead bark should be thoroughly cleaned and immediately burned. Together with the cleanings, the moth caterpillars that have crawled under the bark are also destroyed.
The same species of moth damages pears.
Every gardener can determine the exact days for spraying trees in spring from moth pests by the white acacia blooming nearby. Acacia blooms when the sum of effective temperatures (above + 10 ° C) is 230 ° C, it is at this sum of temperatures that the caterpillars emerge from the eggs.
Krawchik beetle, popularly called "strigun"... This beetle is 2 cm long, with big head and highly developed powerful jaws.
Beetles hibernate in the soil, in burrows. In April, they come to the surface and begin to feed on various herbaceous plants, including strawberry flower stalks, and vegetable and flower seedlings.
At this time, beetles make burrows up to 60 cm deep, mainly on hard areas, slopes, near roads and in other soddy places. On the sides of deep minks, females arrange chambers where they lay eggs in May and then fill these chambers with young leaves, pieces of shoots of fruit trees, strawberries and other cultivated and wild plants... The female walled up the chamber densely filled with greenery with earth, where the green mass sour without access to air. A kind of silage is formed, which the hatched larvae feed on.
The larva grows in about a month, reaching a length of 25-30 mm. White, thick, with three pairs of legs, the kravchik larva resembles the larvae of beetles.
An adult larva makes an ovoid cocoon in the ground, inside which it pupates. At the end of July, beetles appear that remain to winter in the soil.
Crovchik causes great harm to plants, cutting off green shoots with powerful jaws. There are especially many of these beetles in gardens and orchards surrounded by abandoned areas.
When caring for the garden in spring from pests to flowering, plants should be sprayed with one of the insecticides (Iskra-M, Kinmiks, Fufanon, etc.). On vegetable beds for plant protection in spring, the burrows of the kravchik can be poured with a solution of one of the indicated preparations, prepared according to the instructions, as for spraying.
The enemy of garlic is the onion winepress. V last years this pest almost completely destroys the planting of garlic in garden plots. Harms both winter and spring garlic, turning its heads into dust. In and around damaged garlic, you can count up to 30 red caterpillars up to 2.5 cm long. Caterpillars overwinter in a cocoon in the soil, feeding from autumn on garlic carrion or newly planted chives. The onion winepress develops in one generation. Its butterflies fly in June, emerging from pupae located at the soil surface.
Plant protection in spring: spraying calendar in May
Here is a table of how trees are treated in spring from pests and on what days in May it is better to do this:
|
Days of may |
Culture |
Pest, disease |
Drugs |
Notes (edit) |
|
All pome and stone fruit crops |
Any insecticide (pest drug) |
If bark beetles start in the garden, the affected trees are destroyed, healthy ones are sprayed 3-4 times during May |
||
|
Apple tree, pear |
Scab and other diseases |
Skor, Horus, Topaz, Raek, Abiga-Peak, Ordan or Kuprolux |
If the weather is wet, repeat after 10-12 days, alternating preparations |
|
|
Plum, cherry plum |
Aphid, moth |
Any insecticide * |
Against aphids, treatment has to be repeated |
|
|
Cherry |
Cherry fly |
Any insecticide * |
Only late varieties... Spray the crown of trees and the soil under them. Repeat next decade |
|
|
Currant, Gooseberry |
Glass, aphid |
Any insecticide * |
The first treatment is 5-7 days after flowering, the next two - with an interval of 8-10 days |
|
|
Pine, fir and other conifers |
Columnar rust |
Cuprolux, Topaz, Abiga-Peak or Horus |
Process twice at the beginning and at the end of the specified period. |
|
|
Strawberry |
Complex of pests and diseases |
Any insecticide in conjunction with Abiga Peak |
Before flowering |
|
|
Tomatoes, potatoes |
Late blight and other fungal diseases |
Profit Gold, Abiga-Peak, Ordan or Kuprolux |
Preventive treatment is mandatory. Repeat after 10-12 days if it rains |
|
|
Apple tree, pear, quince |
1st generation moth |
Any insecticide * |
With re-spraying at the end of the month |
|
|
Ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers |
Pest complex |
Any insecticide * |
When a pest appears |
|
|
Stem gall midge |
Any insecticide * |
Twice with an interval of 7-10 days |
||
|
Any tree |
American white butterfly |
One of the insecticides * |
In the event of pest nests |
|
|
Potato |
Colorado beetle |
Bison, Tanrek, Sonnet, Commander or Gold Spark |
First instar larvae |
Fighting mole rats in the garden and in the garden
Fighting mole rats is also a big concern for gardeners. In recent years, these animals have become a big disaster for gardeners. They begin to harm in spring. They ruthlessly destroy tulips, hyacinths, muscari, even colchicum. On the garden bed, except for greenery, it is already impossible to plant anything.
Deaf- an animal leading an underground lifestyle and, unlike a mole, it is herbivorous. The blind rats, whose size reaches 35 cm, build huge systems of passages, separate sites several meters in length are reserved for storerooms. Usually the system consists of feed passages, which are located close to the soil surface, and deep ones. These "floors" are connected by inclined drifts. For the winter, the animal clogs part of the passages with earth and lives in the central part of its labyrinth due to large reserves (up to 50-60 kg) made in summer period, which are neatly laid in the "pantries" at a depth of 1-1.5 m in clay.
In the fight against mole rats in the garden, a lot has been tried different methods, namely:
- catching for fishing tee hooks No. 12-14, for rat traps;
- tried to catch the animals by burying empty buckets along the burrows;
- frightened away by the sound of empty metal cans suspended from posts;
- used firecrackers 5-6 cm long in order to concussion or at least drive the animals out of the area with an explosion in the burrow. Many, not knowing how to deal with mole rats, used a lot of other methods - poisoned baits, carbide, ammonia, kerosene, but did not get the desired result.
Catching several animals did not lead to the release of the site from uninvited guests for a long time.
Battery operated electronic scarers have proven ineffective. The animals quickly get used to the sounds that they periodically emit and bypass them in close proximity.
How else can you deal with mole rats in the garden
There are two effective ways, how else can you deal with mole rats in the garden or in the garden:
1. Pass the hose from the propane gas cylinder into the mole rat's hole and open the tap for 15-20 minutes, having previously tightly closed the hose inlet so that the gas does not escape outside. One time is enough to rid the area of mole rats for two to three years.
2. When the mounds of the earth appeared again - the mole rats returned for our harvest, there was no propane in the cylinder. They put a rubber hose on the exhaust pipe and shoved the other end into the tunnel. The engine also worked at idle speed for 15-20 minutes. And now several years have passed, and there are no underground inhabitants.
After the years of increased number of mole rats, a period of decline will surely come, which is associated with a complex of natural and climatic factors.
It is difficult to ignore the losses caused by diseases and pests of the apple tree, because not only the quality of the fruit and the quantity of the crop deteriorates, but the likelihood of its complete destruction also increases, and often even the harvest next year... That is why it is so important in the fall for one eradication spraying, using one of the drug options (only one, you do not need to spray everything at once!), To process apple trees and other fruit trees. We will tell in our article about when it is optimal to carry out the treatment in the autumn period, what means can be used, in what combinations and doses it is necessary to spray.
When to process apple trees in autumn
Autumn eradicating treatment of apple trees from diseases and pests is carried out strictly after leaf fall, when the tree has completely passed into a state of dormancy, its buds "closed" and become inaccessible to powerful and strong solutions (they will not burn), with which we will spray the tree. In this case, it is important to be in time before the onset of frost, that is, the temperature should be above 0 degrees (including at night).
Thus, the approximate timing of spraying apple trees in the fall in middle lane(Moscow region) - this is the second half of October - the first half of November.
Note! Autumn spraying of fruit trees is most often carried out at a temperature of +5 degrees, therefore, when choosing means for processing, you should pay attention to them working temperature, since very often many products work in conditions above +10 degrees.
Video: autumn eradication spraying of fruit trees (apple trees)
How to spray an apple tree and other fruit trees in the fall: rules and recommendations
Before starting the autumn garden processing, you should familiarize yourself with the basic rules and recommendations:
By the way! Similarly to the apple tree, you can process other fruit trees, as well as berry bushes... But in this article, only diseases of pome crops (apple, pear, quince), which drugs are fighting, are indicated. However, the essence of the need for spraying does not change from this.
- Shortly before the procedure remove all plant residues (leaves, twigs) from under the trees. If the tree did not hurt, then they can be thrown on compost heap, but if it hurt, then you need to burn it or bury it very deeply.
Don't forget about safety measures. Before spraying, wear a mask, safety goggles and rubber gloves... It's even better if you are wearing a special robe.
- Processing should be carried out on a fine day (in dry and calm weather), and it should be sprayed in the morning so that the bark is already dry by evening. If the rain washes everything quickly, then spraying will be useless. It is very good if the solution stays on the tree for at least 2-3 days.
Advice! If it rains, and after them the temperature is promised to drop to minus values, then you will have to leave the trees without autumn processing until spring. Unless, if suddenly there is a "window" with a plus and without rain.
- For example, and very poorly dissolve in cold water, therefore, vitriol should first be diluted in warm water(40 degrees), and then dilute to the desired concentration with cold water.
Important! Dilute or dissolve iron and copper sulfate should only be in glass or plastic containers, but not metal.
- Do not forget to filter the solution when pouring into the sprayer (especially if the product is difficult to dissolve). As a rule, you should have a special mesh. If there is no such mesh, then you can strain, say, through tights.
- Autumn spraying of fruit trees should be as thorough as possible, and not only the crown and all branches of the tree should be processed (especially for old trees with cracked bark), but also the soil in the near-trunk circle. However, it is not worth handling lawn grass that grows next to the tree (alternatively, you can put the film on the ground under the tree before processing).
Important! This applies to the use of all means for treating apple trees from diseases and pests in the autumn, which will be listed below.
- Ideally, when spraying, you create a whole cloud of solution, like a fog.
- If you have near fruit trees conifers grow, then the processing must be done very carefully, trying not to fall on them, even more so if the garden is sick and you are using a strong solution that can burn evergreens.
Note! If you processed the apple tree in the fall, this does not mean that it is not necessary - it is still necessary. Autumn eradication spraying is actually similar to early spring gardening (the very first).
How to spray an apple tree and other fruit trees in the fall from diseases and pests
To prevent diseases and insect infestations, in the autumn processing of trees it is very important for the mind, that is, in the right combination and dose, as well as depending on the condition of the trees, use the remedy of your choice for apple trees and other fruit and berry crops.
By the way! All the means that will be presented below are of contact action, which means they are washed off by the rain and do not accumulate, that is, they cannot harm anyone, neither people nor plants, especially in the fall, when the trees are already "dormant".
Urea (Urea)
Urea is a very powerful fall treatment for apple and other fruit trees in your garden.
At high concentration, this fertilizer (under these conditions this is not nitrogen feeding) actually burns out all fungal and viral infections , and effectively fights many pests who decided to spend the winter in the trees. Thus, urea plays a role at the same time and fungicide, and insecticide. In other words, spraying an apple tree with urea in autumn is an excellent prevention of spotting, powdery mildew and even.
What is the necessary concentration of urea solution for the treatment of apple trees and other fruit trees in the garden?
Dose first of all depends on whether your trees were sick this year and how bad the infection was:
Important! The concentration does not depend on the age of the tree.
- if the trees were not sick (the garden was "clean") - 200-300 grams per 10 liters of water;
- if the trees were sick - 500-700 grams per 10 liters of water.
Note! Indeed, urea (urea) is a nitrogen fertilizer, which in the autumn period can provoke the growth of shoots, but due to the fact that the treatment is carried out shortly before the first frost, urea will not cause any effect other than "eradicating" (fungicidal and insecticidal).
inkstone
Another excellent broad-spectrum preparation for autumn processing of fruit trees. For example, for an apple tree will greatly help in the prevention and protection against such fungal diseases and infections like powdery mildew, various rot, including black crayfish. It will help get rid of mosses and lichens (in theory, after processing, they will die and fall off the bark themselves).
Iron vitriol, presumably, also works against harmful insects that hibernate in the bark.
But! Many experienced gardeners believe that it is useless to fight pests in the fall during eradication spraying, because they themselves died, and they laid all their eggs long ago, and their larvae pupated and hid.
Naturally, the expense of the funds again depends on what condition your trees were in this season - whether they were sick and how strong the infection was. Thus, the dosage is as follows:
- if the trees did not hurt or practically did not hurt - again 200-300 grams per 10 liters of water;
- if the trees were sick - 400-500 grams per 10 liters of water.
Important! You can apply urea and vitriol at the same time, preparing a kind of tank mix. That is, for example, dissolve 200 grams of urea and 200 grams of ferrous sulfate in 10 liters of water. Urea will certainly work against the larvae of harmful insects.
Video: autumn processing apple trees and other fruit trees and shrubs
By the way! More about the use of ferrous sulfate in horticulture read
Copper sulfate
In general, the spectrum of action (specifically for processing an apple tree) is similar to iron vitriol, unless you can definitely defeat mosses and lichens with the help of such spraying.
By the way! Iron and copper sulfate is often used as a disinfectant (antiseptic) for wounds that remain after.
Copper sulfate consumption for preparation of working solution for autumn spraying:
- if the trees did not hurt or practically did not hurt - 100 grams per 10 liters of water;
- if the trees were sick - 300 grams per 10 liters of water.
Advice! Do not mix iron and copper sulfate (or). Better in the fall process with iron sulfate (optionally with urea), and in the spring - copper sulfate (Bordeaux mixture).
Bordeaux mixture
Thus, spraying the apple tree with Bordeaux liquid (similar to copper sulfate) helps in the prevention and control of other spots, as well as powdery mildew, various rot, including.
You can buy ready-made Bordeaux mixture either. For example, for a 3% solution, you will need to take 300 grams of copper sulfate and 400-450 grams of lime. Copper sulfate is dissolved in 5 liters of warm water, then lime is dissolved in a separate bucket (5 liters). Then, in a thin stream, stirring constantly, vitriol is poured into the lime solution.
The required concentration of Bordeaux liquid solution when processing apple trees in autumn:
- if the trees did not hurt - 1% (100 grams of copper sulfate and 100-150 grams of lime per 10 liters);
- there was an infection - 3% (300 grams of copper sulfate and 400-450 grams of lime per 10 liters).
Important! Do not be alarmed if, after treatment with Bordeaux liquid, your garden becomes blue... It's simple: the solution has a bluish color due to the presence of copper, and it adheres to the branches thanks to lime. This spraying is sometimes referred to as "blue".
Video: spraying fruit trees in autumn - scheme and means
What else can you spray trees in autumn
It is worth understanding! There is no point in treating with drugs that you used in spring and summer, because they are intended for foliage treatment, and autumn eradication spraying is carried out exactly after all the foliage has fallen off.
Some summer residents process their apple trees and other fruit trees in more sophisticated ways, for example, by making a tank mixture based on "Soon"(from diseases) and "Karbofos"(from pests), they are perfectly compatible).
If it seems to you that "Karbofos" is too "powerful" means, then it can be replaced with "Zubr"(from pests), while it is better to carry out 2 separate treatments with each preparation (without mixing into one mixture).
Video: autumn treatment of the garden (apple and other fruit trees) from diseases and pests for the winter with the help of "Skor" and "Karbofos" (or "Bison")
In order to properly and safely for you and your garden, in one eradication spraying, to process apple trees and other fruit trees from diseases and pests in the fall, it is necessary optimal terms, in the appropriate combination and the correct dose, apply one of your chosen effective drugs.
Note! In the fall, only one eradication spraying is carried out. There is no need to treat the tree with all the preparations at once and several times. That is, for example, it is enough to process only with urea and either (as a rule, experienced gardeners choose one of them). But in subsequent years, try to change the drug.
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