Radish belongs to the plants of the Cruciferous (Cabbage) family, so it has the same diseases and pests as everyone else. horticultural crops this group.

By the way, radishes rarely get sick. Most often, the following diseases of fungal or bacterial origin appear on radishes:

• bacteriosis - fungal disease, leading to the formation of putrefactive mucus on root crops, yellowing and death of leaves;
• powdery mildew ( white coating on the stems and upper side of the leaves) - a fungal disease leading to blackening and death of the leaves;
• kila - also a disease of bacterial origin, manifested by growths and swellings on the surface of root crops, leads to yellowing and wilting of leaves;
• black leg - manifested by yellowing, twisting of the leaves and blackening of the stem at the base.

However the greatest harm culture is caused by harmful insects. Let's talk about the most dangerous pests later.

The cruciferous flea is the main enemy of the radish. These are small black bugs that jump in the garden and damage plants. They bite holes in the leaves, and when the damage reaches a critical size, the plant stops its growth and begins to die. Insects are especially active in hot, dry weather, and their main target is exclusively young radishes. Fleas are not as scary for adult plants as they are for young shoots.

The white butterfly is a white butterfly that lays its eggs in the soil. It is not she who is dangerous for radishes, but her caterpillars, which eat leaves, making holes in them.

Medvedka is the most serious enemy of root crops. It is more common in greenhouses because it loves warm soil. The pest eats root crops, forming holes and passages in them.

Cabbage flies - these insects are not averse to eating any cruciferous crops. They lay eggs in the ground, from which larvae appear in a matter of days, eating radishes. If you do not start fighting them in time, then the entire crop will be destroyed.

Firefly is a gray-brown butterfly that is nocturnal and feeds on the leaves of cruciferous crops. Like all butterflies, she lays eggs, from which caterpillars emerge. These caterpillars very actively devour young leaves, which leads to the complete destruction of plants.

The rapeseed bug is a black bug with yellow stripes on its back that appears on radishes as soon as it gets warmer. They eat leaves, forming holes in them, which leads to yellowing and then wilting of plants.

Wireworms are the larvae of click beetles. They eat any root crops, including radishes.

Since the radish loves moist soil, slugs can often be found in its garden. During the day, they hide in the ground between plants, and crawl out at night to feast on the pulp of root crops. Slugs appear in the middle or second half of summer, therefore they are dangerous only for late varieties.

Ways to fight

Insecticides are the surest way to control pests of garden crops, but for radishes their use is not always justified and advisable. The fact is that these drugs lead to the accumulation of such harmful substances as nitrates in vegetables. If the application of insecticides is stopped a month before harvesting, then the nitrates will have time to leave the plant and will not harm the consumer. The radish very quickly accumulates nitrates in itself, and since the growing season of the crop is short (20–40 days), it does not have time to get rid of them. To nitrates in early vegetables did not cause harm to health, radishes are treated with light insecticides, antiseptics or folk remedies.

Diseases of bacterial origin (powdery mildew, rot, bacteriosis) can be fought with Bordeaux liquid. It is a light complex insecticide with high antiseptic properties. From it, the radish does not accumulate nitrates, since the solution is used only for spraying the tops and does not enter the soil. The drug is effective not only against fungal diseases, but also against many pests, therefore it is used for almost all cultivated plants as a preventive and therapeutic agent.

To combat clubroot, an aqueous solution of slaked lime, popularly called milk of lime, is recommended. To do this, 2 cups of the product must be diluted in 10 liters of water and used to water the plants. Lime is safe for humans; nitrates are not formed from it in radishes. In addition, slaked lime is used in gardening as a fertilizer for the soil, so you don’t have to worry about the quality of root crops.

From the black leg on the radish, a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon / 10 l of water) with the addition of laundry soap(40 g). Vitriol is an insecticide, but since it is used only for spraying, it does not interact with root crops, and, therefore, nitrates are not formed from it. You can also fight the disease with folk remedies - a decoction of onion peel (20 g / 1 liter), you need to insist it for a day and process the tops of the plants.

It should be remembered that nitrates are formed in root crops from a large amount of organic matter, so the amount of fertilizer should be minimal.

The cruciferous flea and other insects can only be gotten rid of with natural remedies, from which nitrates are not formed in radishes: ash, tobacco dust, laundry soap, wormwood.

Video "Wood ash against pests"

Experienced gardeners wood ash is used natural fertilizer However, it is no less successfully used against pests and diseases. Details in the video.

Processing technology

Whatever method of treatment is used: spraying, watering or spraying a dry mixture, it will be effective only if the product lingers for some time in the soil or on the radish itself. The first surface watering or rain will immediately wash off the product and will not give the desired result. Therefore, if the radish was sprayed with a medicinal solution or sprinkled with a mixture, then it must be transferred to drip irrigation (directly under the roots).

If radishes grow in the vicinity of cruciferous weeds, then they should be watered abundantly with insecticides - otherwise they will become a breeding ground for insects.

It is better to process radishes in dry and calm weather. Usually such work is carried out in the evening. However, to eliminate the flea on the radish, you should choose the daytime, since in the heat the insects are especially active. You can fight a flea not only with the help of solutions and mixtures, but also by mechanical means: covering the beds, as well as hanging adhesive tapes to which insects stick. These harmless measures help to wait until the radish grows up, and the fleas are not so dangerous for it.

How to prevent pests

The most reliable way to prevent diseases and pests on radishes is to disinfect the seeds and soil when sowing the crop. Crop rotation also effectively solves this problem.

It is important not only to change the location of the beds every year, but also to avoid re-sowing during the season.

Radish is an early ripening vegetable, and many gardeners try to grow several crops per season on the same bed. This is the cause of outbreaks of fungal diseases, which become more active with each subsequent sowing.

Good predecessors for radishes are: potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, legumes, garlic, onion. Since the early radish ripens quite quickly, it can be sown in a plot intended for planting seedlings of peppers, tomatoes, eggplants - this is an example rational use landing area.

In addition, many pests, such as the cruciferous flea, do not like the smell of nightshade crops. She also does not like humidity, and if the radish is watered abundantly, then it is quite possible that the insects will leave the garden.

Not the last role in the cultivation of culture plays proper care. Remove weeds from the beds in a timely manner, since it is from them that the pests move to the beds with cultivated plants. Some gardeners plant plants and flowers next to radishes that emit a special smell that repels pests. Such plants are: tansy, calendula, celandine, marigolds, coriander, dill.

When planning to plant radishes, choose early varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests. Early sowing is the most the right way prevent many diseases and obtain a high-quality, intact crop.

Every gardener who grows crops on the site met with radish pests. In nature, there are enough people who want to feast on the juicy root crops of insects.

Often the gardener does not pay attention to the condition of the plants. The tops are damaged - you think there will be enough for everyone. Some adhere to the rule: plant as much as is enough for themselves, friends and enemies.

Sometimes there are too many of the latter. By the time of ripening, there is nothing to clean: the radish is small, corroded, tough. Who is guilty? Pests!

Common signs of damage to radishes by pests

The gardener should inspect the plantings during the entire period of root ripening. It is recommended to be careful when:

• damage to the growing point on young plants;
• perforated leaves;
• seedling oppression;
• slow development and growth of tops;
• damage to the protruding part of the roots.

Even in isolated cases, it is necessary to identify the pest and carry out work to protect the culture..

The main pests of radish and how to deal with them

The radish belongs to the cruciferous family. She has common pests with cabbage, turnip, swede. When related crops are affected, attention should be paid to the condition of the crop plantings.

cruciferous flea

Highly dangerous pest. Able to destroy seedlings before the growth of true leaves.

This is a jumping beetle. It overwinters as an adult under unharvested plant debris. When warm weather arrives, it activates. Before sowing cultivated plants, it lives on wild representatives of the Cruciferous family. After germination of radishes, turnips, radishes, it feeds on young leaves.

It gnaws through holes in tender plants. On more rigid makes indentations. Activity period: from morning to 13 hours and from 16 hours to 18 hours. Hot weather promotes reproduction.

The flea lays its eggs in the ground. The larvae live on young roots. They also feed on them. Landings are lost.

• remove plant residues;
• dig deep into the ground in autumn;
• apply mineral fertilizers to the soil;
• observe crop rotation;
• fight weeds;
• apply sealing plantings of protective plants.

Gardeners dust the ridges with ash and tobacco dust. AT difficult cases the use of insecticides is recommended.

White butterfly caterpillars

This insect is familiar to every adult. They are touched by children and townspeople. The butterfly itself is not harmful to the radish: it feeds on the nectar of flowers (alfalfa, dandelion, clover).

But she lays her eggs on tops. Voracious caterpillars that feed on leaves develop from them. In advanced cases, they completely destroy the tops of the radish. The root crop stops developing.

The gardener should regularly inspect the plantings. Pay attention to the back side of the leaves. Immediately destroy the discovered clutches of eggs and caterpillars.

Exist folk methods protection of plants from whites. Sticks with halves are stuck along the perimeter of the ridge egg shells. The butterfly does not like competition and flies to lay eggs elsewhere.

Some gardeners thickly sprinkle plantings with sifted oven ash. Belyaka - clean. It will not grow on dirty leaves. After rain and wind protection is updated.

spring cabbage fly

Belongs to the type of flower flies. Mass summer begins with the flowering of bird cherry and cherry, ends after the flowering of lilac.

The fly itself feeds on nectar. She pollinates plants. But its larvae are harmful to gardeners. The fly lays its eggs in the soil under radish plantings. The hatched larvae gnaw through tender root crops, build passages. Outwardly, the radish looks oppressed, the tops begin to wither.

At the first sign of damage to plantings by a flower fly, it is necessary to start a fight. Damaged roots should be dug up and burned. Treat the soil with an insecticide.

Prevention gives excellent results. Weeds must be removed from the site. Protective measures:

1. It is recommended to plant plants with a pungent aroma along the perimeter: marigolds, celery. They will scare away the fly.
2. Ridges should be mulched with coarse wood chips or covered with dark nonwoven fabric: The fly has nowhere to lay its eggs.
3. Stretch a net with small cells completely over the landings: the fly will not overcome the obstacle.

Some gardeners thickly sprinkle the ridges with oven ash: this prevents the pest from laying eggs.

cruciferous bug

The cabbage bug hibernates under plant debris. When warm, it flies out and lives on the weeds of cruciferous plants. After the appearance of cultural, it switches to them.

The female lays her eggs on the reverse side of the leaf. The larvae feed on the juice of the leaves. Small dots are visible through the light, they turn into spots. The leaf dies, the plant weakens.

Insecticides are used to control pests. Prevention gives excellent results: the destruction of weeds, digging the soil before winter.

Some gardeners attract cabbage bug enemies to the site: the motley fly phasia and the egg-eater trissolkus. They naturally reduce the pest population.

cabbage moth

This is a butterfly of the inconspicuous beige colour. She feeds on nectar. But its caterpillars are capable of destroying the radish crop.

As soon as the pest begins to flutter over the ridges, the fight should begin. It is recommended to inspect the back of the leaves and the middle of the rosette. Caterpillars must be collected and destroyed, eggs must be washed off with a solution of green soap. In case of severe lesions, radish plantings should be treated with insecticides.

Some gardeners reduce the pest population with traps. A long-drying substance (pine resin, glue, grease) is applied to a piece of yellow cardboard or plastic. Butterflies stick to the composition. Traps with insects are destroyed and replaced with new ones. This method helps to identify other winged radish pests..

cabbage moth

This is a nocturnal pest. The butterfly is painted in a dirty gray color. She lays eggs on the underside of the egg. Young caterpillars make holes in the leaves of the radish, grown stronger - gnaw through the bot. Then the caterpillars go to hibernate underground.

Help get rid of the pest preventive actions. It is necessary to dig the soil deeply, remove weeds, observe crop rotation and neighborhood rules.

Some gardeners lay out pieces of synthetic material soaked in kerosene or tar among plantings to scare away butterflies. Caution should be exercised in the use of insecticides for early radish varieties.

Rape sawfly

The insect ovipositor is like a saw with notches. With it, the female pierces the leaves on the underside and lays eggs. The caterpillars hatch. They eat the leaves. After them, veins remain from the leaves.

They are most active in warm, dry weather. Precipitation and cold weather are detrimental to them. Short rains of caterpillars wait on the underside of the leaves.

The wasp rider is a natural enemy of the sawfly. She lays eggs in the body of caterpillars. Beneficial insects should be attracted to the site.

In rainy weather, caterpillars must be collected and destroyed. With large pest populations, it is recommended to use insecticides.

Rape flower beetle

Brilliant blue-green bug. Winters in the ground. When the soil warms up to 10 degrees Celsius, it comes to the surface.

Active from May to the end of June. Eats the buds from the inside. Prefers canola, but damages any cruciferous plants (and radishes too). Able to destroy 70% of the crop. At the first sign of planting, it is recommended to treat with an insecticide.

Slugs

They damage the tops and parts of root crops protruding above the soil surface. They feed at night. During the day they hide under boards, plant debris.

Aphids should be washed off the leaves with a green soap solution. To attract ladybugs, marigolds, calendula, and chamomile are planted next to radish ridges. Spraying with infusions of tobacco or orange peels will help scare away aphids.

Babanukha

Shiny green beetle. Spends the winter in upper layers soil, under manure, plant heaps. With the onset of warm weather, it climbs up.

It gnaws out the leaves. The plant weakens and stops in development. Additional harm: transfers fungal and bacterial diseases to healthy plants.

Gardeners fight babanukha in different ways:

• collected by hand;
• try not to miss the deadline for planting radishes;
• spray the ridges with insecticides.

To reduce the risk of pest invasion, crop rotation should be observed. vegetable crops and remove plant debris.

Preventive methods of protection

Pest control takes a lot of time. The gardener spends energy spraying and manually collecting insects. Prevention is much more effective. Required:

• free the site from weeds;
• attract beneficial insects;
• observe crop rotation of vegetable crops;
• plant friendly plants nearby;
• comply with sowing dates;
• apply mineral fertilizers.

​Related Articles​

The main pests of radish: find and neutralize

Radishes, as well as cabbage seedlings, love to gnaw on cruciferous fleas, which the rest of the time sit on weeds such as colza and wait for goodies.

Radish Pest Control Methods

cruciferous flea

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Agricultural technology for growing radishes

General information. Varieties of radish.

For the same reason, tansy or celandine can be planted along the perimeter of the garden;

should be applied at least once a week

A young radish will be a real find for them. Watering when planting in April is not necessary - the ground is still quite wet. You can pre-cultivate the land hot water. When re-planting radishes, watering is essential.

Almost everywhere.

Against these pests, it is recommended to use pollination with wood ash or tobacco dust. Radishes sown early can prevent damage to plants. Hot, dry weather contributes to the emergence of diseases and pests.

1. Before planting, the seeds can be held in a damp cloth so that they hatch. To protect against dry rot planting material heated for 15 ... 20 minutes in heated water (about 45 ° C). This procedure also contributes to earlier emergence of seedlings.
2. Early ripe varieties (vegetation period 25 ... 30 days). Here you can select such varieties as "Dawn", "Ruby", "Rose-red with a white tip", "Camelot", "Cherry Belle", "Early Red" and others.
3. Radish is an early vegetable crop that begins to produce one of the first crops. Juicy, spicy-tasting fruits are incredibly healthy and tasty. They can be used for salads, okroshka and other dishes. Radishes are often attacked various pests, which can destroy the crop in a matter of days or seriously spoil it, making it unfit for human consumption.
4. Dealing with them is quite simple (and of course, without using pesticides that will not decompose before cleaning and with which you will “treat” your family).

Soil preparation before planting

She jumps from leaf to leaf and makes holes in the leaves.

You can also make a distracting maneuver by planting a weed loved by a flea next to a radish;

. And as an option - ground black pepper or slaked lime. ​.​ The quality of radishes is proportional to the regularity of watering. Without water, radishes are not as juicy and large, more bitter. On hot days, radishes are watered every evening, on cool days - once every two days.

Benefits of radishes Radishes have a lot of useful properties. It improves appetite and metabolism, strengthens the immune system, lowers blood cholesterol, removes toxins from the body, and even, according to some reports, stops growth. cancer cells. Guys - this is fiber - Dr. Aibolit for our body.

Preparing radish seeds for sowing

To prepare a working solution, add about 2 cups of fresh ash and about 50 g of laundry soap to a 10-liter bucket of water. Mix everything thoroughly. You can pick up ash on a shovel and crush it over a bed with crops. For some time, insects will limit their harmful activities.

You can sow radishes in the country from mid-March, as soon as the soil thaws to a depth of about 10 cm (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, sowing can be done much earlier). The agricultural technique of growing radishes involves sowing seeds in rows, deepening them by 1 ... 2 cm. It is not recommended to sow deeper, as there is a risk that the root crop will not tie. The optimal distance between rows is 8 ... 10 cm. For planting beds of 10 square meters. m will need about 15 g of radish seeds. There are about 1000 seeds in 10 g.

Optimal sowing time

Mid-season varieties (vegetation period 30 ... 40 days). Varieties "Mokhovsky", "Heat", "Icicle", "Red Giant", "Virovsky White", etc.

plant care

Most often, cruciferous fleas attack radishes, which in a short period of time make many holes in the tops. All this negatively affects the yield. Fleas have absolutely small size bodies with a pronounced metallic sheen. As a rule, insects are one-colored. The spring cabbage fly, despite its name, also spoils radishes. Females lay eggs in the soil, from which 6-8 mm long gray or white larvae emerge. The larvae move closer to the roots and begin to actively eat them. Over time, they spread to the stems. If no action is taken, the crop will be spoiled. The rapeseed bug feeds on absolutely any cruciferous plants, including radishes. Since the bugs hibernate under the foliage, they are activated immediately after warming. Females make clutches directly on the foliage. Damaged plants turn yellow and wither. The main thing is to carefully clean the garden in the fall. The fewer last year's leaves, the lower the likelihood that pests will appear in large quantities. But this, unfortunately, is not always enough. Cabbage moth, leading a nocturnal lifestyle, feeds on cabbage, radish, turnip, and also gladly absorbs plantings of turnip, watercress, horseradish and radish. The moth has the appearance of a small butterfly, the wings are brown with stripes. Cabbage moth caterpillars eat leaves in large quantities. Slugs live on cruciferous plants, especially on young ones. Pests spoil mainly the foliage of radishes. Slugs live for a long time, and they reproduce quite well, which is why it is important to process planted crops on time. Manual collection of slugs will not give the desired effect, because they can migrate from garden to garden, thereby spreading to large areas. Clickers or wireworms eat all root crops, including radishes. Since their presence is often ignored by summer residents, significant damage is noted upon harvest. In some areas, there is a huge number of pests that look like orange thin worms, somewhat reminiscent of copper wire.

Ordinary ash, which can be collected after cooking kebabs or specially burned a small bonfire of stick branches, is sprinkled in the early morning (on the dew to stick to the leaves), radish crops and the flea are retreated in a hurry.

It also gnaws on young shoots of radishes and root crops.

Postpone the planting date of the crop to an earlier time (immediately after the snow melts);

Radish pests and their control

Spraying gives good results

Transforming then into an imago, the insect eats the tops. The flea eats the tender leaves of the radish to holes, as a result of which they dry out. There, on the leaves, beetles lay yellowish eggs.

A few days after germination, the radish is thinned out. The thickening of crops is one of the reasons for the shooting of radishes. Don't be sorry - hold on!​

Radishes can be sown at several times with an interval of 10-15 days.

When growing radishes, it is best to use drip irrigation systems, as abundant watering after treatment against pests will wash off the protective composition.

To get friendly and strong seedlings, the soil must first be watered. When the first true leaves appear, it is necessary to thin out the plants. The distance between the sprouts should be 2 ... 3 cm. Experienced gardeners suggest that it is better to plant one seed at a time, since when thinning, the root of the plant left behind can be damaged, after which it develops worse and can go into the arrow, which will significantly affect the harvest.

Late-ripening varieties (vegetation period of more than 40 days). This group includes varieties "Dungansky", "Zenith", Rampoush.

Harvest and storage

C cabbage flea can be fought with ash. Sprinkle some ash on the leaves and the ground. Carry out the processing several times a week until the pests completely disappear. In gardening stores, complex preparations are presented in a wide range. Usually they are available in the form of tablets or ampoules, which should be diluted in water. The method of application is indicated in detail on the package - it is impossible to make the solution more concentrated, otherwise the radish may die. Do not forget to periodically paint greenhouses, the elements of which are made of wood. Otherwise, not only pests may appear, but also the development of many diseases in radishes.

Small cruciferous fleas gnaw on the leaves of radishes and all cruciferous plants, they are especially rampant in dry weather. by the most effective method the fight against them is the shelter of plants, especially young ones, with a covering material, I use lutrasil. Less effective is the use of a soap solution with ash, pepper. You can plant cilantro, garlic next to radish crops, but the most effective is the use of covering material.

Slugs

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Growing radishes | The village is my home...

Choose moistened places for sowing radishes.​​. But they are already used when a flea is found on a culture. You can dilute a bottle of vinegar (or 2 tablespoons of essence) in a bucket of water, or prepare a decoction from tomato tops, collected as a result of pinching the bushes. Laundry soap (0.5 pieces) is also rubbed here. Usually they fight with a cruciferous flea with the help of purchased chemicals (Aktellik, Bankol, Karate, etc.). But since they fertilize and feed radishes in the spring, it is extremely rare. They do not bring fresh manure, ash under it, potash fertilizers. They prepare a garden bed in the fall or choose especially fertile plots of land after the crops under which manure was applied. If you want to fertilize, read the fertilizer instructions. open ground held from 15 April. It is possible a week earlier, but under a film on the frame, so that the radish does not go into the arrow from prolonged low temperatures.

Radishes are harvested as they ripen in the required quantities. As a rule, freshly harvested radishes are immediately eaten. If you water the radishes in the evening and collect them in the morning, do not remove the roots, and cut the tops at a distance of 2–4 cm from the fruit, then it can be successfully stored for up to 7–8 days. Radishes must be placed in a cool room, it is best to store in the refrigerator.

When to plant radishes?

If the site, during the cultivation of radishes, is hot and sunny weather, the crop should be watered in the morning and evening.

In order for the seeds to hatch faster, they must be held in a damp cloth.

The radish is one of the earliest and most beloved vegetables. In spring, it opens the season for providing the human body with fresh vitamins. Early maturing, tasty, very juicy, it is used for salads and appetizers. In a radish great content vitamin C, trace elements magnesium, calcium, sulfur, useful to people, and the presence of aromatic mustard oils will enrich the taste of any dish.​

How to plant radishes

Radishes are one of the healthiest vegetables. Always, when I plant it, after it grows on the leaves there are some punctures, I even thought it was such a peculiar type of tops. But I read that no, these are cruciferous insects, the so-called sawfly beetles love to eat radishes so much. We used to dig deep in the spring and it helped, and the ash helps get rid of pests. Radish must be constantly weeded from weeds. For those who do not want to "bother" with finding out relationships with pests, you can use the method of growing crops in greenhouses. But the ubiquitous insect is able to get there.

Folk craftsmen came up with

Radish belongs to an early crop, chemicals should not be used

With early sowing, the radish has time to get stronger before the mass appearance of the cruciferous flea, so it will be possible to get by with deterrent measures (pepper, mustard, ash).

radish care

The second planting is carried out after the appearance of the first true leaf in the plants of the first planting - from April 25. Inveterate lovers can plant radishes a couple more times in May and in the first half of August. Usually they don’t do this, since cucumbers, turnips, radishes, various varieties of cabbage come to replace radishes.

If you remove the tops and root from a freshly harvested radish, then it can be stored for only 5-6 hours, as it will quickly wither.

Care during the growth of radishes is traditional: weeding, watering, periodic loosening. In dry weather, it is better to water twice a day, in the evening and in the morning, this contributes to the production of juicy and dense root crops. With a lack of moisture, the fruits are rough, bitter, with voids inside. Radishes especially need watering after the appearance of a true leaf, when the root crop is being formed. But you should not get too carried away with watering either, because excess moisture leads to cracking of the fruit.

Radish pests

Radishes grow well in loose, light soils with plenty of moisture. When grown in clayey and dense soils, the roots are hard and small, often have a clumsy shape.

Radish varieties: 1 - "French", 2 - "Vera" (round radish), 3 - "white radish".

There are pests called cruciferous fleas. They love to eat radish leaves. They gnaw little holes. You can fight these pests with chemistry. Suitable for this - fufanon, kemifos.

We harvest

Then you need to take 500 grams of wood ash, dilute it in 10 liters of water, add 50 grams of grated laundry soap, mix well and spray the plant, preferably during the day, once a week.

They are prickly, and all on holes. Who gnaws and how to kill him?

derevnyavolska.ru

How to rid a radish of a flea pest

original traps (So ​​that the vegetable is not saturated with them). But great solution problems can become folk remedies.​ But the middle and late plantings will have to be saved from the cruciferous flea. Of all the cruciferous plants in the garden, this amazing flea first eats watercress, then turnips, and then radishes, cabbages and radishes. It is not worth treating radishes with poisons - too soon it will need to be eaten. You can use folk methods - pollinate with tobacco dust mixed with lime or ash. Do you know more ways to environmentally friendly fight against the cruciferous flea - write.

Seeds are best bought in reliable stores that have existed for more than one year. Bad small seeds do not give a good harvest. No matter how hard you try

By adhering to the above rules, you can get an excellent harvest. which will delight you and your loved ones. Growing radishes in a greenhouse consists in observing optimal temperature conditions and maintaining air and soil humidity. Until the first shoots appear, the temperature is maintained at + 16 ... 18 ° С. After receiving mass seedlings, it is lowered for 3-4 days to 6-8 ° C, using ventilation so that the sprouts do not stretch. In the future, in cool weather, they withstand a temperature of + 12 ... 15 ° C, at night 8 ... 10 ° C, in sunny weather + 18 ... 20 ° C. To get good harvest radish in the country, it is best if the predecessors are potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers.

Folk tricks

​Thanks to short term vegetation (growing), which is from 20 to 40 days, depending on the variety, it can be grown in the beds even before planting the main vegetable crops (late cabbage, etc.). It can also be sown as a compacting crop in the country. Radish is a very photophilous and moisture-loving plant. It tolerates low temperatures well, the seeds begin to sprout already at temperatures of + 2 ... 3 ° C, they can tolerate short frosts of -2 ... 3 ° C. Mature plants are able to withstand cold snaps up to - 4 ... 6 degrees. Optimal temperature regime in order to grow radishes, + 16 ... 18 ° C.

• In autumn, you need to remove the foliage and dig up the garden. It is under the foliage and in the upper layers of the soil that this infection lays its larvae. There are a lot of insects who want such a delicacy as a radish. It is only for humans that radish leaves seem prickly, in fact they are very juicy and tasty, especially young ones. it is young leaves that the cruciferous flea loves to eat, one of the most important pests that can destroy the entire future harvest. Also, caterpillars do not disdain leaves of radish. These can be cabbage caterpillars, whites, cabbage scoops or cabbage moths, which usually eat the leaf from its inside. Beetles can also be pests for radishes. They love foliage such as weevil, leaf beetles and cruciferous bugs. The best remedy The fight against these pests is the treatment of radishes with wood ash or tobacco dust.
• The two most vicious radish pests that feed mainly on leaves are the cruciferous bug and the rapeseed sawfly.​​of various configurations. The simplest of them is a canopy over the garden. The underside of the tent is smeared with any sticky compound (for example, tar). In a few days, it will already be possible to harvest the “harvest” of insects. How to get rid of the cruciferous flea on a radish without using chemistry? Here are our tips for you:
• Kivsyak radish plantings are very cool. Many years of experience in dealing with this centipede has not yet given positive results without the use of pesticides. So, it’s better to choose a piece of land for planting radishes that is not inhabited by nodule. Grow radishes
• Hello friends! What do you think, besides potatoes, Peter I brought to Russia? Of course, radishes. The emperor liked this early ripe vegetable for a reason... Today, the most common radish diseases are slimy bacteriosis, phomosis, downy mildew, white and gray rot, dry (heart rot), powdery mildew, black leg, common mosaic, fusarium, which can practically completely destroy the entire crop. When growing radishes in a greenhouse, care must be taken to ensure that the beds where it is planned to be sown have enough nutrients for vegetation

Preventive remedies

• The best period for growing radishes is considered to be a time with a day length of 10 ... 12 hours.
• You can do without spraying. To do this, you need to plant radishes in the garden where onions, garlic, or peas were planted last year. You should not plant a radish on a bed on which cabbage grew or also a radish. You can form ash or tobacco dust. There are pests that gnaw on radish leaves, despite the fact that radish leaves seem prickly to us. Nevertheless, the foliage is juicy and nutritious, and this is all that is needed for the larvae of the rapeseed sawfly. The first one sucks the juice from the leaves, at the puncture site, the leaf tissues die off and holes of various, often irregular shapes appear.
• To make it easier to deal with the cruciferous fly, you can secure the beds in advance from its invasion:
• The fight against a flea should begin almost immediately, as the radish was sown in the garden
• For more long-term storage It is better to cut off the tops of the radish immediately, and put the root crops in a bag and put them in the refrigerator. The tops literally suck all the juices out of the radish and it instantly becomes lethargic.
• - they go to the arrow.

radish

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Who nibbles on radish leaves?

The radish belongs to cruciferous plants, so pests can damage it.

Captain obvious

. For this, it is recommended autumn period(during digging the soil before winter) apply 400 ... 500 kg of humus per hundred square meters and complex mineral fertilizers: potassium and phosphorus - 0.6 ... 0.9 d / w (active ingredient) per hundred square meters, 3 ... 4.5 kg of superphosphate, 1.2 ... 1.8 kg of potassium sulfate or 2.4 ... 3.6 kg of potassium magnesia . AT spring period carry out loosening and harrowing of beds to reduce moisture loss. After a few days, it is recommended to cultivate to a depth of 3 ... 5 cm. When cultivating, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 0.8 ... 1.1 kg per hundred square meters (approximately 2.3 ... 2.9 kg of ammonia village).

In order for this root crop to be regularly on your table, it is necessary to produce correct selection varieties. In addition, you should sow seeds in several stages, if your summer cottage allows it. Such agricultural technology will allow you to grow more than one good crop during the entire warm season in your country house.

In fact, radishes do not have special thorns on the leaves.

The rapeseed sawfly has been living in Russia for many years and feeds on redmi leaves and cabbage. The larvae are very voracious in sawflies. First of all, dig the soil to the depth of the entire shovel as soon as the soil thaws.​

Aleso

The second, or rather its larva, gnaws stupidly, and indiscriminately - it can start from the edge of the sheet, or maybe from the middle. Radishes should be planted next to tomatoes -. The soil is sprinkled with a "pillow" of wood ash and tobacco dust. This will not only protect the radish, but also fertilize the soil.

Good luck with your first harvest! Choose for radishes fertile soils, on which cabbage, radish, radish and other cruciferous plants (in a new way - cabbage plants) were not planted in the previous year. In April, May - sunny places, in the rest of the months - places with shading.​

All gardeners want to get as many healthy fruits as possible from radish ridges with juicy tasty pulp, full of vitamins and minerals.

But not everyone manages to grow a good crop due to diseases and other reasons: sometimes radish pests get in the way, and methods of dealing with them do not always help. Due to insects not detected in time, vegetable growers may be left without radish fruits, but more often they still manage to be defeated with the help of insecticides.

In any climate zone, insects abound that can harm radishes and other cruciferous vegetables. Before you learn how to treat radishes from pests, consider the main winged and crawling insects - the enemies of the vegetable.

• cabbage moth. This is a small insect of a brown-gray color, whose wings are decorated with a dark fringe. It is not the moth that causes harm to the radish, but its larvae, which feed on the juice and tissues of plants.
• cabbage white. This white butterfly with a black border around the edge of the wings is known even to children. She lays her eggs in radish plantings. Caterpillars hatched from eggs actively eat the lower part of the leaves, moving from rosette to rosette.
• Garden and cabbage scoop. Sero - brown butterflies, making masonry on radishes. The larvae destroy the leaves, turning them into transparent skeletons. Plants attacked by a pest stop developing.
• cabbage fly. It happens in spring and summer (the last fly has larger dimensions). An ash-colored fly that produces egg clutches on vegetable plantings, from which white worms hatch that infect the roots. The radish becomes unusable in 2-3 days.

• cruciferous flea. The most dangerous enemy of this culture, eating the leaves of young plants: after its invasion, the tops resemble a sieve.
• wireworm. The beetle larva is a nutcracker capable of destroying the entire plant, including the roots.

As you can see, the radish has a lot of enemies who want to feast on tender foliage and roots, reducing all the efforts of gardeners to nothing.

How to process radishes in the garden from pests

Such an extensive list of harmful insects that can destroy the crop is alarming. However, many insecticides have been developed against pests that can easily cope with misfortune: their list is no less.

Biological and chemical preparations against radish pests

Entobacterin

It is used in liquid and dry form: dissolve the product in water according to the instructions and spray the plantings, or spray the drug in powder.

Entobacterin is a universal biological remedy for different insects, especially well destroys the cabbage moth and its offspring.

Bitoxibacillin

Dilute 50-100 g of powder in 10 l of water, add 40 ml liquid soap and water the radishes over the leaves in dry weather.

biological preparation, safe for bees and pets, does an excellent job with a variety of harmful insects.

Actellik

We dissolve 20 ml in a ten-liter bucket of water and spray the plantings (this solution is enough for 10 m²).

Good remedy for cabbage fly and other winged enemies of the radish.

Zemlin and Provotoks

They are used according to the instructions against the wireworm and other pests that live in the soil: cabbage fly larvae, ants and others.

Bazudin

We fill three-quarters of a liter container with sand, mix with 30 g of the drug and add it to the soil when planting (the composition is enough for 20 m²).

How to treat radishes from wireworm pests? Just Bazudin: he also cracks down on bears, cabbage fly larvae, weevils, etc.

Initiative

30 g of the drug is enough to treat 15 m² Prepare a mixture of ¾ l of sand and 30 g of the product and scatter it on the ground around the seedlings.

The initiative destroys not only wireworms, but also those pests of radishes, methods of combating which are beyond the power of some drugs: caterpillars of scoops and whites, cruciferous flea, larvae of any flies.

Aktara

Universal insect repellent, used at the rate of 5 liters per hundred square meters. Kills aphids and caterpillars hatched from eggs of butterflies and moths. Dangerous for bees.

Aktofit also copes well with pests. Biological product, dissolved in water according to the instructions on the package, destroys aphids, cutworms, cabbage whites and many other insects that feed on cruciferous plants.

Folk remedies for radish enemies

What else can be used to treat radishes from pests? Folk remedies, especially if early varieties are planted, from which nitrates from chemicals do not have time to leave.

Ash and soap

We dissolve 50 g of laundry soap and 2 cups of wood ash in 10 liters of water, and water the radish on a fine, but not hot day.

The tool helps with the invasion of many harmful insects, especially the cruciferous flea.

Ash and tobacco

Regularly pollinating plantings after watering or rain with tobacco dust or ash, it is easy to get rid of caterpillars and other pests of vegetables.

Pepper and mustard

Mix in 10 liters of water 1 tsp. any powder hot pepper, 2 tbsp. salt and 2 tbsp. dry mustard. We water the plantings to destroy the caterpillars of the cabbage whitefish, moths and scoops.

If, after treating the beds with folk insecticides, it rained, we repeat watering or pollination, otherwise the insects will destroy the plantings.

Now it’s clear what radish pests are and how to deal with them - folk and industrial. Remember that for early varieties radish, only folk remedies or biological products that do not harm human and animal health can be used.

Almost all gardeners grow radishes on personal plots. It belongs to precocious crops, so it rarely suffers from diseases and pests, especially with proper care. But he still does not have absolute protection. If the gardener does not pay at least minimal attention to plantings, it is likely that fungal diseases or pest attacks will develop. So you need to know characteristic symptoms be able to identify the problem and know how to deal with it. At an early stage, as a rule, folk remedies are enough; in other cases, you will have to use "heavy artillery" in the form of chemicals.

General measures to prevent the development of diseases and attacks of radish pests

A short ripening period is one of the advantages of radishes. Many pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, eggs and insect larvae simply do not have time to go through the incubation period to cause significant damage to plantings. But this does not mean that the culture, in principle, cannot suffer from diseases and pests.

To avoid negative consequences in the form of crop loss, it is advisable to regularly pay attention to preventive measures. There is nothing difficult in them, they will take quite a bit of time. But such events, coupled with competent agricultural technology, make it almost guaranteed to protect plantings from unwanted "guests".

There is nothing complicated in growing radishes, but this crop is not immune from disease and pest attacks.

A careful inspection of the beds at least once every 4-5 days helps to detect the problem in time. On the early stages infection, as a rule, in order to cope with it, there are enough folk remedies that are harmless to human health and the environment. Chemicals, especially those that are not related to preparations of biological origin, are very undesirable for processing radishes. The culture is early harmful substances accumulate in roots.

Plants with good immunity get sick much less often than those in which it is weakened. Soaking the seeds before planting in a solution of any biostimulant has a positive effect on it. A similar effect is given by both store-bought drugs (Epin, potassium humate, Emistim-M) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). But an excess of nitrogen in the soil provides the opposite result, weakening the plants. This macronutrient has one more thing in large doses. negative consequence- radish begins to actively form leaves to the detriment of root crops. Strengthen the immune system potassium and phosphorus. Their natural source is wood ash.

To prevent fungal diseases, seeds are treated for 15–20 minutes before planting in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin. The most common drugs are Strobi, Thiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Bayleton.

Soaking seeds in a fungicide solution is an effective prevention of fungal diseases

A necessary condition for obtaining a bountiful harvest on a personal plot is crop rotation. Radishes cannot be planted for 3–4 years where other crops from the Cruciferous family (all types of cabbage, turnip, radish, rutabaga, turnip, daikon) have grown before. In general, they are placed as far apart as possible. They pull the same nutrients from the soil, suffer from similar diseases. Many weeds used by pathogens as a "transshipment base" also belong to this family. Therefore, do not forget about regular weeding.

Cabbage, like other Cruciferous, is a bad predecessor and neighbor for radishes

Radish seeds are planted as rarely as possible. With dense plantings, diseases spread much faster. Plants are not ventilated, which is also harmful to them. important and proper watering. Avoid droplets on leaves and stems.

Since autumn, the bed has been dug up or at least deeply loosened. This helps to destroy fungal spores, eggs and larvae of pests wintering in the soil. All plant debris is collected and burned. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure as top dressing. It is an excellent nutrient medium for them, besides, it helps to keep the heat necessary in frosts.

Digging up the beds in the fall helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of many pests that were going to winter in the soil.

Diseases typical of the culture

There are no specific diseases in radishes. Most often, it is affected by the most common fungal, bacterial or viral diseases that do not bypass any horticultural crops in general or plants from the Cruciferous family.

Belle cabbage crops (white rust)

All Brassicas suffer from the disease to one degree or another, but radishes, horseradish and turnips are affected much more often than cabbages. It is most dangerous for young plants. Optimum temperature for the development of the fungus - about 15 ° C. Another risk factor is cool, rainy weather or extreme temperature changes that cause fog and/or heavy dew.

Radishes suffer from white rust more often than other Brassicas.

Light green spots appear on the front side of the leaf. The tissues in these places thicken, gradually turn brown and die. On the wrong side, pustules similar to abscesses form. The leaf around them swells. When they “break through”, a whitish, oily, shiny coating becomes visible, as if flakes of peeling paint. On root crops, if they have time to ripen, outgrowths appear, resembling those that are characteristic of keel. Radish can go into color, the stem begins to branch intensively, turning into something similar to deer antlers. If nothing is done, it dries up and dies.

In case of severe damage, fungicides of biological origin are used - Ridomil-Gold, Ditan-M, Folicur. Folk remedies are effective in the early stages of the development of the disease and for prevention. This, for example, is a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda ash or baking soda, colloidal sulfur (10–15 g per 10 l). In order for the solution to “stick” better to the treated plants, a little liquid soap or soap chips (3–5 ml or 10–15 g) are added to it. Preventive treatments are carried out every 7-10 days (or more often if it rains constantly). To combat the disease, radishes are sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.

Potassium permanganate is one of the most common disinfectants.

quila

A specific disease, very dangerous for all Cruciferous. The gardener may lose at least half of the entire crop. Often it disappears completely. The causative agent of the fungus is distinguished by its rare viability. In those beds where the club has proved itself, potentially susceptible crops are not planted for 8-10 years. You can reduce this period to 4–5 years by placing tomatoes, potatoes, beets or any legumes there.

Kila is a disease that affects only plants from the cruciferous family.

On the aerial part of the plant, the keel does not appear in any way. During the incubation period (20-30 days), growths form on the roots and root crops different size spherical or fusiform. Gradually they turn brown and rot. The stem turns yellow, the leaves dry and fall down, as the plant does not receive enough water and nutrients.

Factors favoring the development of clubroot are too frequent and / or abundant watering, unsuitable heavy soil in which moisture stagnates for a long time, acidification of the substrate, high temperature (from 25 ° C). But it is also impossible to completely forget about watering - the keel causes the greatest damage during a long drought. The disease spreads through infected seeds, soil, manure, it is spread by worms that live in the soil. It affects not only the "cultural" Cruciferous, but also wild (shepherd's purse, colza).

Proper watering of radishes helps to somewhat reduce the damage caused to the culture of clubroot.

Practice shows that radishes suffer much less from clubroot when planted early. Etching in Cumulus solution also helps to avoid infection.

There is currently no cure for clubroot. The main focus should be on preventive measures. 2–3 days before planting the seeds, the soil is loosened by embedding sifted wood ash in it, or watered with the so-called milk of lime (two glasses of slaked lime per 10 liters of water). You can also treat the bed with a solution of Carbation (40 g per 10 l) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 l).

A very dangerous viral disease that can affect most horticultural crops. Infected specimens are far behind in growth and development, the leaves are deformed and smaller. The front side of the leaf plate is covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots located between the veins. Depending on which particular virus has infected the plant, they can be in the form of circles, strokes, angular spots. Gradually, these tissues turn black and die. The veins also darken.

Mosaic radish - a viral disease, there are currently no means for its treatment

With the help of modern means, it is impossible to get rid of the mosaic virus. The only way to stop its spread is to remove all affected plants from the garden and burn them as soon as possible.

The best prevention is competent care of the crop and keeping the beds clean. It is especially important to strengthen the plant's immunity by applying the fertilizers it needs in a timely manner and in the right doses. It is recommended to pickle radish seeds before planting in a solution of Rovral, Horus, Topaz. The carriers of the virus are many insects, for example, weevils, aphids, mites. Don't forget to fight them.

Etching in Rovral's solution is a good prevention, but not absolutely guaranteed protection against mosaic virus

powdery mildew

A very common disease, not a single horticultural crop is immune from it. Leaves and petioles are covered with a layer of powdery whitish or pale gray coating, resembling scattered flour. If nothing is done, it becomes denser and changes color, turning into large brown spots with black patches on the surface. The tissues affected by the fungus die off, holes form. Leaf plates are deformed. As a rule, the leaves closest to the soil are infected first.

Powdery mildew on the leaves seems like a harmless plaque that is easy to wipe off, but in fact it is a dangerous disease.

Most often, radishes are affected by powdery mildew in hot, humid weather. Another risk factor is sudden temperature changes. The fungus spreads by wind, with drops of water, by direct contact of the infected and healthy plants.The yield drops by 50% or more, and the quality of root crops also decreases.

For the prevention of powdery mildew, as a rule, folk remedies are enough. Radishes are sprayed at least once a week with a solution of colloidal sulfur, an infusion of wood ash, sour milk or curdled milk, diluted with water, a decoction of horsetail rhizomes. If time has already been lost and the fungus has spread massively, copper-containing preparations are used - fungicides. The experience of gardeners shows that Skor, Quadris, Raek, Fundazim give the best effect in the fight against powdery mildew. Of the drugs of biological origin - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz. But some also rely on old time-tested remedies - blue vitriol, Bordeaux liquid.

Wood ash is not only a source of potassium and phosphorus, it helps to destroy spores of pathogenic fungi.

Video: how to protect plants from powdery mildew

Downy mildew (downy mildew)

The characteristic symptoms first appear on the leaves. They are covered with small angular spots with a seemingly oily surface. Gradually, their color changes from salad to straw yellow and dark brown. If the weather is wet, the underside of the sheet is covered with a continuous layer of grayish-purple bloom resembling felt. The whole process takes 10-13 days.

Peronosporosis develops quite quickly, so you should not hesitate to take action

To prevent the development of the disease, radishes during the growing season are sprayed twice diluted in water. boric acid(10–15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin, Rizoplan. From folk remedies, an infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood is used. Seeds are soaked in a solution of Buton, Energen, potassium humate, Fitosporin-M. To combat the disease, the same drugs are used that are recommended for the destruction of the fungus that causes powdery mildew.

Garlic is a plant that produces phytoncides that kill pathogenic fungi

Brown spots spread on the root crops, quickly covered with a layer of “fluffy” bluish-gray coating with small black “specks”. The tissues under them soften and rot, the stem and petioles become watery, the leaves lose their tone. Contributes to the development of the disease high humidity in combination with low air temperature.

Do not eat any fruits affected by gray rot

To prevent the development of gray rot, wood ash is periodically added to the soil, plants are dusted with colloidal sulfur or crushed activated carbon. They can also be sprayed with mustard powder or iodine diluted with water (50 g or 10 drops per 10 liters, respectively). A few crystals of potassium permanganate are added to the water for irrigation every 7-10 days. It is useful to surround the bed with plants that produce natural phytoncides - marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums.

Marigolds are not only beautiful, but also a very useful plant.

If gray rot is noticed on time, the plants and soil are treated with the following solution - for 10 liters of water they take a glass of sifted wood ash and crushed chalk, add 10-12 ml of copper sulfate. In case of mass infection, Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair preparations are used. But this no longer guarantees success.

Vascular bacteriosis

Most often, the disease affects adult plants, seedlings are practically not affected by it. The veins on the leaves turn black, then spots of the same color blur around them. The leaf plate turns yellow, as if "crumbles". The growth of radish slows down, the petioles are deformed.

Adult radishes most often suffer from vascular bacteriosis already at the stage of root formation.

Risk factors - high humidity, heat, the presence of mechanical damage. The disease is transmitted by insects, raindrops. The bacterium lives in plant residues, unripened manure, persists in seeds from infected plants, remaining viable for 2–3 seasons. For disinfection, planting material is immersed in hot (45–50 ° C) water for 15–20 minutes immediately before planting.

To prevent infection, 10–12 days after emergence, radish seedlings are sprayed with Planriz or Trichodermin. In the early stages of infection, radish can be saved by treating it with Binoram or Fitolavin. If the disease has gone far in its development, the plants can no longer be helped.

Phytolavin is a popular drug that increases plant immunity

"Blackleg"

A fungal disease that mainly affects young shoots. Mature, mature plants have sufficient resistance. The base of the stem turns black and becomes thinner, the seedlings lie on the ground under their own weight. The leaves turn yellow, the plant dries up. The disease develops quite quickly, as a rule, the affected plants can no longer be helped. But it is quite realistic to prevent the appearance of a “black leg”.

The “black leg” can deprive the gardener of the radish crop already at the seedling stage

The most important preventive measure is proper watering. The fungus also loves stale air (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, it must be regularly ventilated), heat and an acidified substrate. Seeds are sown on time, not earlier. Low temperature and lack of light adversely affect plant immunity.

Seeds must undergo preplant preparation. They are soaked in an infusion of garlic gruel, a dark raspberry solution of potassium permanganate. The soil in the garden 3-4 days before planting the radish is shed with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and immediately after the procedure, it is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. To the bases of the stems of the seedlings that have appeared, crushed charcoal or chalk, the plants themselves are dusted with sifted wood ash. Water for irrigation is periodically replaced with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Baktofit, reducing its concentration by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Folk remedies - an infusion of onion peel or marigold greens.

Infusion of onion peel - effective remedy black leg prevention

Having discovered that several plants have become infected, they sharply reduce watering to the required minimum, allowing the soil to dry well. The soil is loosened, introducing granules of Trichodermin, Gliocladin, Barrier in the process.

Video: methods of dealing with the "black leg"

Common pests affecting radishes

There are a lot of pests that can cause significant damage to radishes. These are insects that affect only Cruciferous plants, and "omnivores" that attack most other garden crops.

Small (up to 0.3 cm in diameter) black bugs, shimmering golden in the sun, turn radish leaves into a sieve in a very short time. They have very good jumping ability, due to which they cover significant distances relatively quickly. The pest waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, under the fallen leaves. The females of the cruciferous flea lay their eggs on the leaves, the larvae hatching from them eat the roots of plants. Insects don't like heat high humidity air, in such weather their activity is sharply reduced.

In the heat, especially if it often rains, the activity of the cruciferous flea is sharply reduced.

In order to scare away the cruciferous flea from the beds, the soil where the radish shoots appeared is sprinkled with a mixture of sifted ash with chopped dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper, and mustard powder. You can simply prevent the pest from entering the garden if you tighten it with any air-permeable covering material. white color. During the growing season, radishes are treated every 5–7 days with an infusion of dandelion leaves, tomato or potato tops, diluted in water with vinegar (25–30 ml of essence per 10 l). Around the perimeter, the beds are surrounded by a naphthalene barrier.

The cruciferous flea can't stand the smell of vinegar

In the event of a mass invasion, chemicals are used. The best way Decis, Sherpa, Aktara, Lightning manifest themselves. An alternative is flea shampoo for pets (40–50 ml per 10 liters). You can also catch bugs manually by building something like a flag. A piece of cloth is attached to a stick, smeared with something sticky and passed over the tops of the radish.

Butterfly caterpillars

Females lay eggs on leaves, the first generation of larvae hatches at the end of June, the second - in September. Striped greenish-yellow caterpillars are able to devour the plant in a few days, leaving only petioles from the radish leaves.

There is hardly a gardener who has never seen a white butterfly, also known as cabbage.

When the first butterflies appear in the garden, in order to prevent them from laying eggs, the soil and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a sharp characteristic odor (wormwood, tomato tops, rosemary, basil, sage). Of the chemicals, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide are used for the same purpose. You can also tighten the bed with a fine mesh, add a few drops to the water for irrigation essential oil lavender or any citrus. Traps are hung next to it - cut plastic bottles filled with sugar syrup, honey or jam diluted with water. A similar effect is given by sticky tape for catching flies.

White caterpillars are able to devour a plant in a matter of days.

Experienced gardeners are advised to “deceive” butterflies by scattering pieces around the garden. eggshell. Their insects are mistaken for "relatives" and fly on, being sure that "the place is already taken."

Caterpillars are destroyed with the help of Kinmiks, Sumi-Alpha, Aktellik. You can make them leave the garden by powdering the soil with wood ash mixed with any spice or spice - mustard, cinnamon, saffron, ginger.

spring cabbage fly

It is capable of causing very serious harm to radish plantings. The peak of its activity falls on the second half of May and the beginning of June (you can focus on the beginning of flowering of lilac and bird cherry). Just at this time, gardeners are actively planting crops. Females lay their eggs in the upper layers of the soil, the larvae penetrate the roots and eat them from the inside, severely damaging the emerging root crops, then pass into the petioles. The plant fades, the leaves acquire an unnatural bluish tint.

Adults of the cabbage fly do not cause harm to plants, but this does not mean that they do not need to be fought.

To scare away the cabbage fly, the garden bed is sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust with camphor and powdered dry bay leaf 3–5 days after the emergence of shoots. It is recommended to plant marigolds, parsley, celery, coriander along the perimeter and between rows. Materials with a rather rough texture are used as mulch - wood shavings, sawdust. Also applicable are all measures to scare away whitefly butterflies.

Cabbage fly larvae penetrate the plant tissues through the roots.

In the event of a massive invasion of caterpillars, chemicals are used. Karate, Antio, Iskra-Bio, Rovikurt proved themselves in the best way. They still can't bear ammonia and vinegar. 5 ml is enough for 10 liters of water.

It is very difficult not to notice a pest on a radish. Its red-black striped and mottled color contrasts very effectively with the bright green leaves. The females lay their eggs on the leaves; the hatched individuals overwinter in fallen leaves and other plant debris. They come out of hibernation in the second half of April or early May, the period of their activity lasts until August. Radishes receive maximum damage in hot, dry weather. The bugs feed on plant sap. Where they caused mechanical damage, “wounds” remain, gradually turning into areas of dead tissue with a yellowish border.

It is very difficult not to notice the cruciferous bug on the plant

The experience of gardeners proves that the pest does not tolerate the smell of tansy. It is useful to plant this plant along the perimeter of the beds with radishes or periodically spray it with an infusion of greens. A good effect of dates is tampons moistened with kerosene or turpentine and laid out in the aisles.

A tansy planted nearby will effectively protect a radish bed from cruciferous mites

Having found the first pests on the plant, you can simply collect them manually. To make them leave, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusions of chamomile, pharmacy, onion peel. The most effective chemicals are Fosbecid, Belofos, Aktara.

An inconspicuous grayish-brown butterfly does no harm to plants. What can not be said about her larvae. Yellowish caterpillars, gradually changing color to light green, eat out longitudinal tunnels in leaf tissues. Then they come to the surface and continue to feed on them. Affected leaf blades turn pale and dry. From hibernation, insects wake up as soon as the air warms up to 10ºС, their activity does not stop until October-November. The maximum damage to radishes is caused in the heat with a long absence of precipitation.

Cabbage moth - a very nondescript butterfly

Folk remedies in the fight against pests do not give a special effect. The maximum that they can do is to slightly slow down the activity of the caterpillars. Recommend, for example, an infusion of dried lavender or the peel of any citrus. Therefore, in order to destroy them, you will have to resort to chemicals - Ambush, Nurell-D, Talcord. Adult butterflies are repelled using the methods recommended for controlling the whitefish.

Folk remedies in the fight against cabbage moth larvae are ineffective

For some reason, they also have a special love for yellow. This can be exploited by making traps out of pieces of cardboard or plywood of the appropriate shade smeared with something sticky and takes a long time to dry.

Butterfly dirty yellow with blurry brown spots and strokes on the wings. It leads a nocturnal lifestyle, so it is quite difficult to notice its appearance in time. Its caterpillars, as it were, scrape off the top layer of tissues from the leaves, leaving "recesses" - the gates for all kinds of infections and other pests. Particularly well characteristic damage is visible on the wrong side of the sheet.

It is problematic to notice the appearance of a cabbage moth - it is active mainly at night

Adults are killed with traps. In the circumcised plastic bottle place a light source, smearing its walls with something sticky. You can also use Bitoxibacillin, Dendrobacillin. Against caterpillars, the best effect is given by drugs Anometrin, Ripcord, Sumicidin, Gomelin. If you managed to notice their appearance on time, folk remedies help well, but they do not have any negative effect on the moth eggs. Radishes and soil in the garden are recommended to be treated with infusion of sifted wood ash, tomato tops.

Cabbage moth caterpillars can be driven out of the garden with the help of folk remedies, but the eggs will not suffer from this in any way

The caterpillar of the rapeseed sawfly is greenish-gray or olive in color with brown longitudinal stripes and a slightly lighter belly. An adult is extremely small - the body length does not exceed 6–8 mm, the body and limbs are of a bright saffron shade, the head is black, as if varnished. The pest eats the leaves almost completely, leaving only the petioles. Radish dries and dies, roots do not form. A gardener doing nothing can lose 80-95% of the entire crop.

The rapeseed sawfly, as the name suggests, has a special affinity for rapeseed, but does not disdain radishes either.

For prevention, radish seeds are soaked for 10-15 minutes before planting in Karate or Aktellik solution. Adults are scared away from landings with the help of Bitoxibacillin. From folk remedies for the treatment of plants and soil, you can use infusions of chamomile, pine needles, tansy, aconite (the latter is very poisonous). Caterpillars are effectively destroyed by Mospilan, Kinmiks, Arrivo, Fury. If there are still few of them, you can spray the plantings with soda ash or baking soda diluted in water, mustard powder (40–50 g per 10 l).

Many common general insecticides are used to control rapeseed sawfly larvae.

The bug looks pretty nice - lacquer-black, in the sun it casts blue-green (this is why it owes its nickname "glitter" or "glitter"). He waits the winter in the upper layers of the soil, as soon as the air warms up to 10–12ºС, he wakes up and goes outside. As a rule, it causes the greatest damage to rapeseed (hence the name), eating away flower buds from the inside, but does not disdain other Cruciferous plants (even wild ones), in particular, radishes. Yield losses range from 20 to 70%. It depends on how purposefully the gardener fights the pest. The peak of its activity lasts from the second half of May to the end of June.

The rapeseed flower beetle reaches its peak of activity in late spring or early summer

Folk remedies in this case do not give any effect at all. Therefore, having found the first individuals on the plants, any insecticides from the group of pyrethroids are used. The most popular of them are Karate, Zeon, Kinmiks, Fastak. You can try to "distract" him from the radish by planting a little rapeseed or colza nearby.

Literally 2–3 rapeseed bushes planted in the garden can distract the rapeseed flower beetle from more important crops for the gardener

Slugs

Shellless greyish-beige molluscs that feed on root vegetables and radish greens. They can completely destroy young shoots. Adult specimens are eaten big holes in leaf tissues, through "tunnels" are made in root crops. A sticky trace remains on the surface, shining silvery in the sun. Slugs do not like heat and dry air, so they prefer to hide during the day (for example, under stones, boards, leaves), leading a predominantly nocturnal lifestyle.

Radishes affected by slugs sharply lose their keeping quality and presentability

Getting rid of slugs is quite difficult. It is much easier to prevent their appearance in the garden. For this, several traps are built - deep containers dug into the soil, about half filled with chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, fermented compote or jam. The bases of root crops are surrounded by a "barrier" of wood ash, crushed chalk, sand, needles, ground nut or egg shells. Around the beds and in the aisles, any spicy aromatic greens and other plants with a sharp aroma are planted. You can also spread fresh leaves of nettle or wormwood there.

Slugs do not have even minimal protection, so the needles serve as an insurmountable barrier for them.

Slugs have natural enemies - birds, frogs, hedgehogs. Bring them on own site it's not that hard. You can, for example, build a birdhouse or a small pond, periodically put out plates of milk, and so on.

Having found several individuals, the radish and the soil in the garden are sprayed with an infusion of chili pepper pods or mustard powder diluted in water. There are, although extremely rare, cases of mass invasion of slugs. Then there is no need for chemicals. FROM the best side the drugs Meta, Thunderstorm, Slug Eater have proven themselves.

Video: ways to deal with slugs

Aphid

An extremely "omnivorous" pest that does not disdain the vast majority of horticultural crops. Radishes are no exception. Aphid - a small insect of greenish-yellow, pale salad or black-brown. She feeds on plant sap, attacking it with whole colonies. Many insects stick to the underside of the leaves, especially young ones. The affected areas of the tissues become discolored, in the light they look like small translucent beige dots. The leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry.

Aphids affect the vast majority of horticultural crops

Aphids live in stable symbiosis with ants. Get her out of garden plot it is impossible if at the same time you do not attend to the fight against these insects too.

It is impossible to remove aphids from the garden plot without first getting rid of ants

Aphids do not like strong strong odors. That's why good neighbors for radishes there will be spicy herbs, onions, garlic, fennel, marigolds, calendula, lavender. Many of them are good honey plants that attract attention. natural enemy aphids - ladybug. From their greenery, infusions are prepared, which are sprayed on plants and soil. Other suitable raw materials - orange peels, needles, dry tobacco leaves, mustard powder.

There are plants, on the contrary, that attract aphids. These are, for example, nasturtiums, petunias, viburnum, linden, bird cherry.

Having found the first individuals, the radish is sprayed with foam of household, green potash or tar soap. After about half an hour, it will need to be washed off with clean water. Then apply the same infusions that were used for prevention, reducing the intervals between treatments from 8–10 days to 6–8 hours.

In the event of a mass invasion of aphids, any insecticides of general action are used. The most popular drugs are Inta-Vir, Confidor-Maxi, Iskra-Bio, Admiral, Tanrek.

Video: how to deal with aphids in the garden

The beetle infects plantings of Cruciferous plants, including radishes, in most of Russia, with the exception of the Far East and Eastern Siberia. His coloration is very interesting - a bottle-green body with dark brown paws. The elytra are as if embossed, eight dents resembling dots are clearly visible on the head. Beetles begin to show activity in early June.

Babanukha is also known by the nickname "horseradish leaf beetle"

The pest gradually eats the leaf plate, "scraping off" the layers of tissue. The leaves become thinner, acquire an unnatural rusty hue, become as if “rotten”. Through holes with torn edges gradually appear. Females lay their eggs in cracks in the affected tissues, the larvae hibernate in the soil.

For prevention, the soil in the garden is sprinkled with a mixture of ash with mustard powder and ground hot pepper. The radish itself is sprayed with vinegar diluted with water (15-20 ml of essence per 10 liters of water). Other popular folk remedies are an infusion of tomato tops, chamomile, yarrow.

Cut off stepsons of tomatoes can be used to make an infusion that repels many pests.

On plants, beetles are very conspicuous, so you can simply collect them by hand. But it takes a long time. It is much faster to shake them off on an oilcloth or newspaper spread on the bed. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning when they are not particularly active. Of the insecticides, Sherpa, Angio, Fury, Aktara are the most effective.

Radishes are one of the easiest crops to grow. Caring for her, in essence, comes down to necessary minimum. The vegetable rarely suffers from diseases and pests, but nevertheless it is not completely immune from this. To avoid losing a significant part or all of the crop, you need to regularly inspect the plantings for suspicious symptoms. And if any are identified, use the recommended folk remedies or chemicals. The best thing is not to forget about preventive measures. As a rule, they are quite enough to avoid infection.