Installing a boiler in a private house: diagram and recommendations. Scheme for connecting a storage water heater to a water supply system

Centralized hot water supply is more a myth than a reality. In the majority settlements this benefit of civilization ceased to be available many years ago. But there is great alternative– water heaters, also known as boilers. There are many models of such units available for sale: flow-through, storage, electric, gas, etc.

Step-by-step diagram for connecting an indirect heating boiler

And if the connection of gas water heaters must be carried out by specially trained people, then an electric boiler can be connected to the water supply on our own. The presented guide will help you thoroughly understand all the intricacies and nuances of this event.

We choose a place to place the unit. It's better that you have Free access to all connecting elements of the system - this will make it more convenient to maintain the equipment and carry out its repair when the need arises.

If you choose a storage heater model, make sure that the wall can support its weight with water. Thin interior walls And plasterboard partitions They will definitely not cope with this task.

Install the water heater in close proximity to the water supply pipes - this way you will save yourself from the need to lay additional infrastructure. Therefore, the ideal place to install a boiler is the bathroom.

Important! The heating elements of electric boilers have quite high power. On average it is about 2 kW. To avoid problems with wiring in the future, experts recommend connecting this kind of equipment directly to the distribution panel, using, if possible, copper wire with a large cross section. The closer the boiler is installed to the panel, the less wire you will have to use. Take this point into account too.

Having chosen a place to install the heater, begin preparing tools and related accessories.

Set for work

Level.
Roulette or ruler.
Hammer. Can be replaced with an impact drill.
Pliers.
Adjustable wrench.
Tees-fittings. They will allow you to insert into water pipes.
Stopcocks.
Sealing tape. Necessary for sealing connecting elements. You can replace it with tow or a special paste.
Flexible connecting hoses. Water will be taken in and discharged through them.
Additional pipes. Buy as needed. Be sure to check with the seller whether the pipes you choose can withstand operation in the upcoming conditions.

Let's start installing the boiler. Place the water heater at its future location on the wall. The distance between the tank and the ceiling must be at least 100 mm, otherwise you will not be able to hang the unit on the fasteners.

Water heater capacity, l	Wall material	Recommended bolt diameter, mm	Recommended bolt length, cm
30-50 l	15-25	Concrete	6-8	6-8
30-50 l	15-25	Brick/cinder block	8-10	8-10
80-100 l	25-35	Concrete	8-10	8-10
80-100 l	25-35	Brick/cinder block	10-12	10-12
150-200 l	45-60	Concrete	10-12	8-12
150-200 l	45-60	Brick/cinder block	12-14	12-15

Use a marker or pencil to mark the attachment points. Do this carefully. If the tank is large and heavy, invite a helper.

Drill holes and screw in fasteners. They usually come with a tank. If there are no fasteners, buy them separately. Steel hooks will do.

Before installing the water heater, make sure that the threaded connections at the water inlet and outlet are intact. Experts note that hoses and relief valves are often unscrewed by 1-2 turns. If you also find a similar defect, carefully drive the thread half an inch with a die. There is no need to force the valve or hose on.

Install 2 separate shut-off valves on the boiler. Explore appearance output threads: cold water must be connected to the blue one, heated liquid will come out through the red one. Wrap the sealing tape, screw the relief valve onto the inlet cold water and connect to the water supply system in a convenient way(using tubes or hoses). Experts strongly do not recommend using flexible hoses, especially in apartments.

We prepare fittings for installation. 1. Transitions from ¾ thread to ½ thread.
2. Thread extensions.
3.Cranes.

Screw in the fittings and thread extension

Safety valve. A – Direction of water flow.
B – Connection to the drainage system.
C – Water drain handle

Supply cold water to the boiler. At the same time, open the tap to hot water- this way you bleed air from the system.

Finally, all that remains is to connect the boiler to electricity.

It is strongly not recommended to simply plug the heater into a nearby outlet using a cheap extension cord. Although in practice this is most often done, similar option connection is not secure or correct. By choosing it, all responsibility for possible troubles will lie with you.

We connect the wires to the boiler. Yellow-green wire to the boiler body. Blue and brown to the thermostat terminals. The terminals on the thermostat are marked: zero on the left, line or phase on the right

It is recommended to connect the tank with a separate branch from electrical panel. The branch must be equipped with an automatic shutdown device. The recommended power of the machine is 16A. To connect to the electrical network, you need to remove the factory wire from the heater and replace it with a new cable from the panel. For wiring, use a three-core copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2.

The water heater must be grounded. Absence protective grounding threatens with many troubles. While light “pinching” sensations from electric current while taking a shower can still be survived, a complete failure of the wiring and a fire are much more tragic situations.

Ground the tank directly in the electrical distribution panel. If you do not have the necessary skills to do this, hire a qualified electrician. It is also recommended to use copper wire for grounding.

The nuances of connecting a boiler to pipes made of different materials

Depending on the material used to make the water pipes, the order in which the water heater is inserted will vary slightly. Familiarize yourself with the existing nuances to get the job done as efficiently as possible.

If the pipes are not hidden in the wall, there will be no difficulties connecting the boiler. All the work boils down to the fact that you cut the water supply pipes in the right places (depending on the installation height of the tank), solder tees into the prepared holes, and then run pipes from them to the heater. To connect to taps, use regular couplings.

You will spend a little more time and effort on connection if the pipes are embedded in the wall. In such a situation, the procedure will look like this:

pipes are opened;
insertion is carried out according to the scheme discussed above;
pipes are removed;
the pipes close back.

Make the connection using tees and detachable couplings. Wait until the soldered joints have completely hardened, connect the connectors and connect the boiler to the water supply.

Connection to metal-plastic pipes

The technology does not allow the installation of metal-plastic pipes in a hidden way, so there will be no special problems with insertion.

It is enough to cut the pipes, insert tees and connect the water supply elements to the water heater. This completes the insert.

Connection to steel pipes

Most difficult case. In this case, the tank will be supplied through pipes kitchen faucet. You need to put a tee on each pipe - this will allow you to connect the boiler and kitchen faucet to one pipe without cutting a thread.

There are a number important nuances, without knowledge and compliance with which connecting the boiler to the water supply will be incorrect. You should know that the hot water supply system does not need to be equipped with any additional elements, with the exception of the shut-off valve. It is installed on the boiler pipe.

The cold water pipe is installed after preliminary installation of the tee. The tap for draining excess cold water from the water heater cuts into the side outlet of the splitter. A return valve and a shut-off valve are also connected to the tee. The latter is connected to the water supply.

When connecting the tank to the water supply, do not do the following:

open protective window with the heater on;
test an empty boiler. The tank must first be filled with water, otherwise the heating element may burn out;
drain the water without first turning off the heater;
equip the water heater with parts from other boilers. The exception is the same models, as well as tanks with compatible spare parts.

Briefly about the important: safety valve

Such an element of the system under consideration as a safety valve deserves a separate section. It eliminates the possibility of liquid flowing back into the water supply system, and also helps to normalize the pressure in the system by releasing excess water during the heating process.

An important nuance: it is prohibited to install a check valve instead of a safety valve. Because of this, the temperature relay may break, causing the boiler to explode.

The safety valve is installed at the point where cold water enters the heater. The connection technology prohibits placing shut-off elements between the tank inlet and the safety valve.

Important! Monitor the condition of the valve during tank operation. If a brass device remains dry for a long time, this may indicate that it is broken. A failed element must be replaced as soon as possible.

Now you can connect the heater to the water supply in compliance with all the requirements and nuances of the technology. This a great opportunity save on plumbing services and keep the entire process under personal control.

Happy work!

h4 style=”text-align: justify;”> Video - How to connect an indirect heating boiler to a water supply

Increasingly, instead of a gas water heater, they are installing electric water heater. It is easy to use and does not require special permission, design and other red tape, as with gas analogues. Even if the apartment has a hot water supply, the boiler will become a kind of reserve in case it is turned off. But such a seemingly simple electrical appliance must be correctly connected to the home water supply. Mistakes made can lead to boiler failure and even tank rupture due to excess pressure. Let's now look at how to connect a boiler to a water supply, and what types there are.

Considering electric boilers, two main types can be distinguished: flow-through and storage. Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages, but they all perform one function - they provide hot water.

Storage boilers

An electric water heater with a large tank is called storage. It is convenient because you can make a small supply of water. If the pipeline is connected correctly, that is, a drain tap is provided, this reserve can be used when there is no water supply in the apartment or house for some reason.

The storage boiler consists of the following parts:

a tank of a certain water capacity, insulated with polyurethane foam, placed in an outer casing made of stainless steel or enameled steel;
installed inside the tank a heating element- Heater. Its power varies from 1.2 to 3 kW. There are models with “dry” heating elements. In them, the heating element does not come into contact with water, but is separated by a special flask filled with oil;
the operation of the heating element is controlled by a thermostat, and the magnesium anode protects metal surfaces from corrosion.

In operating condition, hot water is constantly under pressure inside the boiler, the temperature of which is set by the user.

An electric water heater with a volume of up to 150 liters is equipped with a heating element with a power of no more than 2 kW. Constantly maintaining hot water in it at a temperature of 60–65 o is considered economically beneficial.

Among the advantages of the device are the following:

The power of the heater is no more than that of a conventional iron; it allows you to connect the storage water heater to a regular outlet, but it must be grounded;
a simple connection to the water supply and electrical networks can be done independently;
smooth temperature control and long-term preservation of hot water emphasizes the efficiency and comfort of using the device;
You can run an autonomous hot water supply system from the boiler or connect it to the existing network as a reserve.

If we talk about the disadvantages, here we can highlight the large dimensions and weight, which complicates installation on the wall. If you need a small amount of hot water, you will have to heat the contents of the entire tank.

Flow type boilers

Such devices cut directly into the water pipe and heat water only when it flows. So that the heating element has time to heat running water, its power varies from 3 kW or more.

Under such a heater, it may be necessary to lay a separate branch of electrical wiring of a larger cross-section. But this does not mean that it will consume more electricity than its storage counterpart. The flow-through unit heats only the amount of water required for use, and not the entire tank. For example, to heat an eighty-liter water tank with a 2 kW heating element to 60°C, it will take about half an hour. During this time, 1 kW of electricity is consumed. A flow-through unit with a 4 kW heating element will immediately supply hot water to the shower within 15 minutes, using the same 1 kW.

The main advantages of flow models are as follows:

Electricity consumption occurs only when using water, and at the outlet it is supplied hot immediately after switching on;
Small dimensions allow you to mount the device in any convenient place.

Unfortunately, there are many more disadvantages:

installation of reinforced electrical wiring is required;
weak pressure of hot water at the outlet and the impossibility of directing it to different points from one unit;
stepwise temperature control is not very comfortable for using, for example, a shower.

Today the price for flow models is reduced, so it is possible to install several pieces at different points.

Installation of a flow unit

The instructions supplied with the product will help you connect the flow heater correctly. The scheme is quite simple. It involves inserting taps into the water supply system to connect the unit and supplying electrical wiring of the appropriate cross-section to it.

An instantaneous water heater can have two types of connection:

When using flow-through heaters, you must ensure that voltage is not applied without water in the pipes. Otherwise it may burn out.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a storage boiler

The installation diagram for a storage boiler is a little more complicated. Here you will need to correctly route the pipeline, securely secure the tank, and make electrical connections.

Choosing a location for the tank and its installation

The storage container takes up a certain space in the room, so it must be placed efficiently so as not to take up unnecessary space. But at the same time, the boiler should be located as close as possible to the water supply points. The remote location of the water tap from the heater increases the wait for hot water to arrive.

Convenient placement of a storage boiler with a separate bathroom

The mounting location is selected according to the layout of the room:

The layout in a private house is different from apartments. Here the bathroom, toilet and kitchen can be located far from each other, and one boiler must supply hot water to all rooms. Here you need to determine the important room where heated water should be supplied first and install a water heater closer to it;
The traditional layout of the apartment provides for the combination of all these rooms, so choosing the location of the tank here will be easier.

Most often, the tank is installed above the toilet. It does not take up useful space and is located close to the sewer, which makes it convenient to drain water from safety valve. The unit is secured to the wall with anchors. The water tank has heavy weight, so if the wall is loose under it from profile pipe weld additional support.

Connecting the water supply

The optimal connection option is considered to be a circuit with the ability to drain water from the container.

The step-by-step execution of the work looks like this:

The house is disconnected from the cold water supply, and the hot water riser in the apartment is additionally shut off. The collection of all components of the circuit begins from the water heater suspended on the wall. To seal the connections, flax or FUM tape is wound around the threads.
At the bottom of the tank there are two threaded pipes. On the right is the cold water inlet, marked in blue, and on the left is the hot water outlet, marked in red. Packing begins with cold water.
A brass tee is screwed onto the inlet pipe. It must be turned with a transverse hole in a convenient direction to drain the water. A ball valve is screwed into the same hole through a brass adapter. A pipe with a hose for draining water is connected to it. A ball valve is also screwed into the downward thread of the tee to shut off the supply of cold water inside the container.
Now it’s time for the most important thing – the safety unit. The boiler is equipped with a safety valve, which is mounted immediately behind the lower valve on the tee. To install it correctly, there is a guide arrow on the body. On the side of the valve there is a fitting for bleeding water. A transparent reinforced hose is attached to it with a clamp and lowered into the sewer.
Original valves are not always reliable, so they often buy a “safety group” separately. It consists of check valve, installed on the tap coming out of the bottom thread of the tee. The safety valve is installed separately on the middle outlet of the tee.
Next, it remains to supply cold water. This can be done with any pipes, for example, metal-plastic or eco-plastic, if desired. In order not to cut the main water supply pipe, the connection can be made through a tee, installing it on the threaded connection of the toilet tank or washbasin tap.
The hot water unit is assembled in the same way as the cold one, only without a valve. In a private house, from the outlet of hot water from the boiler, pipelines are laid to water supply points. In the apartment, the water heater outlet is connected to the hot water supply pipeline. In this case, when the boiler is operating, close the tap on the riser supplying centralized hot water.

At this point, the water heater is connected to the water supply system, all that remains is to connect the electrical wiring and can be used for its intended purpose.

Connecting the boiler to an open container

Sometimes in a private house you can find an open water pipe instead of a water pipe. storage capacity for water installed in the attic. You can also connect a water heater to it in a similar way. The only condition is that the unit must be no closer than 2 m to the tank. And if a pressure of more than 6 bar is created, then a reducer is installed in front of the boiler.

There are 2 schemes for connecting to an open container:

Once all connections have been completed, the system is tested for functionality. If everything was done correctly, the room will be provided with hot water.

In contact with

In order for a home to be a place of relaxation, it is important that the living conditions are sufficiently comfortable. This is almost impossible without the availability of hot water, which allows you to maintain personal hygiene and maintain general cleanliness. Purchasing a geyser is always great solution, but in some areas their installation is simply impossible.

There is one principle, but there are many types of water heaters

A boiler is a device for heating and storing hot water. Heat sources can be various elements. All heaters can be divided into two main types:

With storage tank.
Flow-through.

The design of the first provides for the presence of a container. It can be of different volumes. To ensure that the temperature does not drop over an extended period of time, between the inner tank and external panel there is insulation. It is usually made of polyurethane foam. The greater its thickness, the longer water will remain hot. The second type is designed for instant supply of hot water. It has smaller dimensions, and its design includes heating elements of higher power, which ensures rapid heat exchange. As a rule, in both the first and second cases, the user has the opportunity to adjust the temperature to the desired one. The thermostat control can be either electronic or mechanical. This does not affect performance, only convenience, final cost and subsequent repair costs.

All storage boilers divided into:

direct heating;
indirect heating;
combined.

In the first case, there is a heating element inside the tank, which ensures heating of the liquid. Some models have two or more. They can be switched on alternately or simultaneously to provide ultra-fast heating. Cold water is supplied through a pipe, which is usually located at the bottom. The outlet is carried out through the outlet, which is located nearby, but inside the tank it is longer and reaches almost to the top, where the hot water rises.

A magnesium anode is located next to the heating element. This is a small metal rod that prevents scale from forming on the walls. The advantages of this solution are ease of installation, as well as the absence of the need to coordinate the installation with various services. Tanks can have both horizontal and vertical locations.

Indirect heating boilers are usually built into the heating system or operate in tandem with solar systems (special panels in which the coolant is heated using solar energy). Structurally, it is exactly the same tank as the first type, but the thermal insulation in them is usually thicker. They also lack heating elements. Heating is carried out thanks to a coil through which the heating circuit is passed or from another system. They can be mounted both on the wall and on the floor (for tanks with large capacity).

The design includes a special inspection window, which makes it possible to carry out maintenance. In addition to the supply and discharge pipes, there may be two more. Their purpose is to organize a recycling system. A separate circuit is created through which hot water from the tank constantly moves. This is necessary to ensure constant mixing of the liquid layers inside the storage tank, as well as to compensate for the distance to the dismountable systems. In some cases, while the water arrives, most of it remains inside the system, or it loses its original temperature. Usually the manufacturer provides the possibility of installing a heating element, which turns this subtype into the one that will be described below. The advantage of this solution is maximum use Heating efficiency systems.

The disadvantages include the complexity of installation, as well as the inability to use in summer period without additional heater.

Combined systems combine all the best of the two options above. There is both a coil for indirect heating and a heating element. The latter can be activated when the power of the heating circuit is insufficient, or in the summer when there is no heating at all. The disadvantages of such systems are quite complex setup and some capriciousness in maintenance. You will also have to find a suitable place for it, because... The dimensions are large.

Note! Some types of indirect heaters have multiple coils. They either make it possible to connect several systems for heat transfer, or one of them is designed to use running warm water.

What to choose

If you find it difficult to make a choice, then you need to analyze the following points:

Where is the heater planned to be installed? If the heater is purchased for a private home that has autonomous system heating, that is, it makes sense to think about purchasing an indirect heating boiler. It's easier for him to find separate place installations. The volume will be limited only by the allocated space. In this case, one device will be enough to provide all water points. For small apartments, where space is limited and there is only a shower stall without a bathtub, it makes sense to think about flow heater. It doesn't take up much space and heats up quickly. In others suitable cases electric storage boiler.
How many people live in one house? The power and volume of the device will depend on this. Don’t think that the larger the capacity, the better it is for the end consumer. In fact, this approach can result in irrational waste on electrical energy. After all, in fact, only 50 liters can be used, and 200 can be heated. For one inhabitant, a tank of 30 liters will be enough. This volume is enough to comfortably take a shower, wash dishes and wash your face in the morning. For a family of 2-3 people you will need a device with a capacity of 50-80 liters. At the same time, everyone will be able to take a shower at short intervals. The heated water is sufficient for kitchen needs, etc. If there are 4 or more people, then you need to look towards a container with a volume of 100 liters or more.
For what purposes will the device mainly be used? In some cases, it makes sense to delimit hot water consumption areas. For example, hot water is most often used to wash dishes and wash oneself. For these purposes, you can install a separate small-capacity boiler - 10-20 liters, and turn on a larger volume heater in cases where there is a need to take a shower or bath. Designed for the former special types with top connection, which are mounted directly under the sink and do not take up much space.
Is there an autonomous heating system? If it is not there, then you need to look in the direction with electric heating elements. Except in cases where there is a separate solar system.
What condition is it in? electrical wiring? This important factor, which can affect the selection of heating element power. Most often, the design includes electric heaters with a power of 1.5 kW, for large volumes - 2-2.5 kW. For consumers with 3 kW and more, a separate supply will be required. You will also need to take care of grounding.
Will the walls withstand the planned load? An 80 liter boiler can weigh up to 20 kg, which means that when filled with water it will weigh 100 kg or more. For loose ones building materials this is an unbearable burden. In such cases, it may be necessary to use through fasteners or install a special metal plate that will distribute the load.

Note! Additionally, when choosing, you should also take into account the design configuration. The boiler does not have to be cylindrical in shape, as we are used to. Modern solutions They also have Slim options, in which the diameter is reduced to the smallest possible size. In addition, there are rectangular devices. More precisely, several smaller cylindrical tanks can still be located inside, but the outer shell has a different shape. For such products it is easier to choose a place for installation, and they also take up less space.

Electric heaters can also be different. The most commonly used heating element is a tubular electric heater. It is in direct contact with water, like a boiler. For this option, grounding is required to eliminate all stray currents. More progressive is the dry heating element. In this case, special containers are sunk into the water column, into which a heater is inserted. It transmits temperature not directly, but through an “intermediary”. This solution is more reasonable from the point of view of repairability, because... You don’t have to remove the tank, empty it, or remove the bottom cover. It will be enough to simply gain access to the heaters.

Particular attention should be paid to the material used to make the inner tank. In cheap models, regular steel with enamel is installed. This solution has few advantages, because it has a limited service life, is susceptible to corrosion and cannot be repaired. A stainless steel container is more durable. With this option you can count on long years uninterrupted service. This metal does not interact with water, but it still requires periodic cleaning to remove deposits on the walls. Good decision in the middle price category is glass porcelain or ceramics. These coatings are applied to the surface of the inner tank. It is neutral to chemical influences and also provides a certain degree of water disinfection.

Preparation for installation work

Before starting work, you will need to prepare the tool:

perforator;
drills of the required diameter
dowels and hooks;
cable of suitable cross-section;
roulette;
drill;
2 adjustable wrenches;
building level.

What fittings are required will depend on the specific types of pipes, this will be discussed below. Decide on the installation location. It is better if it is easy to supply electricity to it, and it is also good if the water distribution is located close, so there will be less losses on the way from the source to the mixer. If the external tank is made of ordinary steel, then the room should not have a permanent high level humidity, because this will lead to corrosion. It is desirable that a constant positive temperature be maintained inside. Otherwise, you will have to make sure that the circuit includes frost protection, which will automatically turn on the heating element, taking into account the surrounding conditions. It is also necessary to analyze the condition of the walls, as described above, and purchase additional planks.

Note! The electrical circuit for connecting the boiler must include a protective shutdown device. It will detect the slightest current leakage and promptly stop the supply, which will prevent damage to the user.

General points

Regardless of which pipes need to be tapped, there are a few basic points that must be observed in any situation.

Before any action begins, the supply is shut off to prevent flooding. Usually the valve is located in front of the water meter.
If the heater is mounted on a wall, then two holes are drilled using a hammer drill. To calculate the correct distance between centers, you must first measure it on a plate that is welded to the boiler. Next, the marks are transferred to the wall and aligned in one plane using building level. Dowels are inserted into the holes and hooks are screwed in, or anchor bolts with a hook are immediately inserted. The tank is suspended, but it must be taken into account that the distance to the wall is not too large, because then the load on the fasteners will be higher. It must be leveled in a vertical plane. This can be achieved using an adjustable stand, which is usually included in the design, or with pads.
First of all, an American type detachable connection is mounted on the boiler pipes. This is important because When servicing the unit, it will be much easier to disconnect it from the system.
Next are installed Ball Valves. You don't have to buy individual elements, because... There are locking mechanisms with the American one.
A check valve is installed on the cold water supply; it will prevent the outflow when the liquid disappears into the common system, the blast valve will ensure the release of excess during heating and expansion.
There is another connection option. First, a tee is screwed onto the cold water supply pipe. A tap is connected to one of its outlets to discharge water. To the second there is a blast valve and another tap that will shut off the general supply.
A hose is connected to drain excess water.
All threaded connections are sealed using tow or Teflon tape.

Note! If it is known that there are pressure surges in the system that are greater than what the boiler can withstand, then in addition to the check valve, you will also need to install a protective reducer. His task will be to normalize the pressure to acceptable values.

In an apartment in an old house, wiring from metal pipes. Connecting to them is somewhat troublesome, but not particularly difficult. If you cannot connect to the outlet, then the main element that will be needed is a saddle. This is a metal clamp with rubber gaskets that will provide connection to the supply and discharge system. It must be selected for specific pipes, and the threaded connection must be ½".

Determined best place for insertion.
The paint is peeled off to the width of the insert.
The upper part of the saddle is applied to the pipe and the location of the hole is marked.
Next, you need to drill a hole along the marked mark.
The same actions are performed for the pipe through which hot water will be drained.
The saddles are mounted on the prepared place. It is important to carefully install the rubber gaskets to avoid leaks in the future. The lower part is inserted and securely fixed with bolts.
The last step is to connect the insert and boiler to the assembled kit additional equipment. For this, it is better to use a flexible stainless steel hose.

Note! Another option is not to use a tie-in, but to use a tee. To do this, use a grinder to cut out a small piece of pipe. A thread is cut on both sides using a tap, a tee is mounted and the connection is made using a flexible hose.

Connection to a metal-plastic pipe

To carry out this work, you will need two tees for. If you plan to connect them to the boiler using a flexible hose, then they need to be taken with an adapter to a ½" thread; if the supply is planned using the same pipe, then there should be a 16 mm outlet from it. Additionally, you will need to purchase an adapter from a metal-plastic pipe to the threaded connection.

The location for the insertion is selected.
It is marked taking into account the size of the tee minus the part of the pipe that will fit into the connections.
Using special scissors, a small area is cut out.
The nuts are unscrewed from the tee and, together with the fixing rings, are put on the two pipes. It is important to do this now, because later it will be impossible.
The pipes are flared on both sides with a special device. You can also use an ordinary screwdriver for this.
A tee is inserted. The pipes are recessed until they stop. The two rings are moved, then everything is clamped with nuts using an adjustable wrench.
If the tee had a threaded connection, then the connection is made using flexible hoses, as in the first option.
If the supply is planned using a pipe, then two sections are cut out, the size of which will be equal to the distance from the tee to the adapter.
Adapters are mounted into ball valves.
Pipe sections are attached to tees and adapters.

Note! For metal plastic pipes Fittings that need to be crimped are also used. In this case, the sequence of actions will be the same, but you will additionally need a crimping tool.

Connection to polypropylene pipes

Additionally, you will need a soldering iron for plastic pipes, special scissors, two tees, two adapters for a threaded connection (MPN or MPV, everything will depend on what thread the taps and safety valves are installed with), as well as angles - their number will depend on the complexity of the configuration water supply

A location for connection is selected.
The pipe is cut to the width of the tee minus 2 cm. Approximately 1 cm will be recessed into the tee on each side.
Using a soldering iron, the pipe and fitting are heated, after which they are connected to each other. Once jointed, they cannot be twisted, as this will lead to poor sealing.
Next, using pipe sections and corners, connections are made to the boiler pipes.
A transition coupling with a metal thread is soldered at the end.
Everything is securely connected and tightened.

Note! It would be good if several flasks with filters were installed in front of the boiler fine cleaning, as well as a salt filter - it softens the water and reduces the content of deposits that can accumulate on the walls and heating element.

Indirect heating water heater

The pipe supply system will be the same as for electric version. But there are certain nuances of how to properly organize the heating system circuit.

The first scheme involves a connection with a 3-stroke locking mechanism. The bottom line is that the temperature on the thermostat is set lower than on the boiler thermostat. Water coming from the heater goes into the heating system. As soon as the water in the boiler heats up to the set temperature, the valve shuts off the heating supply and releases water into the storage tank. Thus, priority is given to the DHW device.

The second includes the presence of two pumps forced circulation. One, as usual, is located on the return pipe heating system, the second is also on the return pipe, but the one that comes from the boiler coil. Their operation is controlled by a thermostat. As soon as the temperature in it drops, the storage pump starts, and the one that provided circulation throughout the entire heating circuit is turned off, and vice versa.

The third method will be useful if the house uses a radiant heating distribution system. It contains a collector from which hot water from the boiler can flow to both the hot floor and the radiators. In such a system it will be necessary to install hydraulic arrow. It will compensate for the difference in pressure that will exist due to the operation of several pumps for individual circuits.

For a comfortable stay in the house, when you want to constantly use hot water, and not depend on the repair schedule of monopolists who can turn off this water for an unknown number of days, many people think about purchasing a boiler.

Most often, the choice falls towards a storage water heater. They come from different companies: Ariston, Drazice, Baxi, etc., shapes and designs - flat, cylindrical or elongated.

The installation of cold and hot water pipes may differ, but they are all connected to the 220V network in the same way.

Many people mistakenly believe that in order to connect the boiler, you just need to plug the plug into the socket and not worry about anything else. However, they forget that it is in the boiler that, in case of insulation failure, direct contact of electricity with a person can occur through water.

What to look for Special attention when connecting the boiler:

selection of the cross-section of the supply cable (depending on the power of the boiler)

selection of a circuit breaker for power supply to the boiler

socket selection

Selecting a cable and machine

When renovating new apartments, the boiler is usually wired separately directly from the panel. If you want to connect the boiler to the old common wiring, which already has several sockets connected, be sure to make sure that it can withstand the power of the boiler.

In most cases, with a power of up to 3.5 kW, wiring must be done with a 3-core copper cable VVGnG-Ls, with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm2.

The three-core cable is required to ensure a permanent connection to ground.

Choose a two-pole boiler connection machine. The rated current of the machine is 16A (sufficient for boiler power up to 3.5 kW).

For loads up to 2 kW, a circuit breaker with a rated current of 10 A is suitable.

Connection from an outlet or directly

If the boiler is connected from an outlet, then the outlet must have a degree of protection IP44. These are sockets for rooms with increased level humidity.

Remember that the socket in the bathroom can only be placed in certain places. And there are areas where doing this is strictly prohibited. You can read more about this in the article "".

Although many are opposed to connecting electric heaters through a socket, this is the only way to ensure a visible break in the conductors (phase and neutral) when disconnected, as required by safety regulations.

And for those water heaters that initially come with plugs, if you cut them off, you can sometimes void the warranty. Therefore, read the instructions.

If it says that this boiler can be connected in two ways

directly

and via the standard power cord

then you will not lose the guarantee here.

In addition, if you need to dismantle the device from the wall, if there is a plug, you will not need to call an electrician to disconnect it from the power supply. Pull out the plug, take it off, rearrange it, do whatever you want.

Powerful boilers over 3.5 kW should only be connected directly through a circuit breaker; a socket connection is not allowed here.

The cable must be routed so that there are no intersections with water pipes and places of future heater mounting.

RCD installation

An RCD must be installed in the boiler supply line. Select its current one order of magnitude higher than the current of the machine.

Leakage current for RCD – 10mA or 30mA.

Why 10mA is better and not more can be understood from this sign of the effect of current on the human body:

A significant disadvantage here is that at 10mA the protection may falsely trigger. Especially if your water heater has been hanging for more than a year and such condensation and moisture often form in the places where the terminals are connected.

How can I check if this is a false positive or if the heating element itself is faulty? To do this, use a multimeter.

Turn off the power supply or pull out the plug from the socket and disconnect the standard grounding from the titanium body.

Then remove the terminal clamps from the heating element itself, and using probes, measure the resistance between the boiler body and the heating element.

If the heating element is working properly, the readings on the multimeter screen should tend to infinity, that is, they should be something like this:

In case of breakdown and damage to the heater, they will either be zero, but most often they can be several hundred or even kiloohms. In the photo below this is exactly the option ~ 500 kOhm.

Very often, in many of the latest boiler models, an RCD with a leakage current of 15 mA is already built into the cable for connecting to the outlet. In this case, it may not be necessary to install an additional leakage current protection device in the panel.

However, do not forget that such a built-in RCD will protect against leakage only if there is damage in the heater itself, but will not protect you in any way if there is a fault directly in the outlet or the supply wiring to it.

How to find these and other similar faults and what this can lead to can be found in the article “”

What to do if you are not an expert in electricity and you yourself cannot or do not want to go into the electrical panel in order to install all the required protection devices there. But you still need to protect yourself.

The simplest option is to purchase an RCD socket.

Plug it into the existing outlet in the bathroom, and through it you plug the plug from the boiler cord.

Will the residual current device on the boiler trip if you do not have a ground connection? Will. These two systems, when working together, are designed to complement each other.

In the event of a current leak on a boiler without grounding, the protection device will only work when you directly touch the tank or the water from it (with the heating elements turned on).

And if there is a grounding conductor, then the RCD will work immediately after voltage is applied to the titanium, without waiting for your touch. That's the whole difference.

Connection diagrams

Boiler connection diagram via socket:

Electrical diagram of the water heater:

Schematic diagram without socket directly from the panel:

Errors during connection and operation

installing an outlet directly under the boiler itself

This is strictly forbidden. Sockets should be placed away from the heating device and placed above the faucets. Don't forget about the safety valve and possible leaks.

The valve will operate as a last stage of protection if the thermostat fails. By the way, the thermostat needs to be checked first when the light on the panel does not light up and the heating elements do not heat up. Look at the position of the button on the element, it can be “knocked out”.

A common mistake when connecting the device directly to an outlet is the desire to turn off the device by pulling out the plug at a time when the water has not yet warmed up and the heater is still working

If its power reaches 3.5 kW, then with such a break in the contacts, sparking may occur, with the formation of an arc. And since the bathroom is a room with high humidity, the consequences may not be predictable.

Therefore, always, before pulling out the plug, turn off the load using standard control devices on the boiler itself.

You cannot plug in an empty boiler without water.

The heating element installed inside requires water cooling. Without it, it will simply burn out and fail. Therefore, before each switching on, check the presence of water in the boiler.

Plus, the magnesium anode, which also protects against rust formation, only works when the tank is full.

connecting the water heater only through an RCD, or only through an automatic device

These two protection devices must duplicate each other. The RCD protects against leakage current, and a simple circuit breaker protects against overload and short circuits.

If your budget allows, then instead of these two protective elements you can install one differential automatic device; it will replace both devices.

Each user can, if desired, independently connect the water heater to the water supply system, the diagram of which is attached in the product data sheet. To understand how to properly connect the device to the home water supply network, it is enough to study the selection of heated water from the container and follow the instructions in accordance with the diagram. The procedure is not particularly complicated, and it can be done even alone, unless installing a water heater on the wall yourself will require outside help.

The principle of drawing water from a tank

There is one correct scheme for connecting a storage water heater, taking into account the features of its design and allowing, if necessary, to quickly empty the tank. This need arises for the following reasons:

scheduled cleaning of the tank and heating element from scale;
occurrence of a malfunction;
moving or replacing the device with a new one;
emptying a water heater in a country house or in a house with periodic heating in winter.

Connecting the water heater to the water supply, the diagram of its installation and placement must take into account that water is drawn from the upper zone of the tank. This is explained by the fact that at the top the water is the hottest, and in the lower zone there is a replenishment of cold flow in the presence of water intake in DHW system. Selection occurs through a vertical tube, the cut of which is located in the upper zone.

Water from the container must not be allowed to return to the cold water supply system, so the boiler is connected to the water supply through a check valve. If the pressure in the network drops as a result of turning off the water, the valve will prevent the contents of the tank from flowing back into the pipe.

As a result of the standard connection of the boiler to the water supply, it will not be possible to quickly empty it by opening the hot water tap. Even unscrewing the hot water pipe from the fitting will not have an effect, since the water intake is located too high, and there is a check valve on the cold side. Solves the drain problem simple circuit connecting the water heater to the water supply, collected during the installation of the device.

What is required for installation?

Before installing an electric or gas boiler, you need to allocate a suitable place for it, taking into account the following points:

placement of a water heater in an apartment or private house should be done taking into account ease of use and maintenance;
it must be taken into account that when emptying or repairing the apparatus, a significant part of the water may spill onto the floor;
It is convenient to connect the water heater yourself when the water supply and electrical network takes place nearby and in the same room;
Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a gas boiler involves connecting a pipeline supplying natural gas to the room.

Based on the listed conditions, the installation and connection of a storage water heater can be performed in the following areas of a private house or apartment:

kitchen - above the sink;
bathroom - above the bath;
boiler room - above the tiled floor.

Before deciding how to connect the boiler to the water supply, you need to hang it from the wall. To complete all the work you will need an electric drill with an impact function (or a hammer drill), drill bits with carbide tips and standard set locksmith tools, including a gas wrench and an adjustable wrench. The boiler connection diagram is assembled from the following elements and materials:

check valve with safety valve in one housing (usually included with the boiler);
bronze tee DN 15 (1/2");
ball valve DN 15 (1/2") - 3 pcs., 2 of them - with American connection;
pipes for connection (usually metal-polymer);
FUM tape, flax or special thread for sealing joints.

There is also electrical diagram connection of the boiler, according to which it is necessary to purchase differential circuit breakers for a current of 16 A (2 pcs.), a socket and plug with a grounding contact, as well as a power cable of the required length. Connecting a device operating on natural gas, carried out using a gas hose.

Self-assembly of the system

The procedure begins with wall mounting the device, and only after that the question of how to connect the storage water heater is resolved. Since the boiler has significant weight, it is better to secure it with an assistant. During installation, standard fasteners and anchor bolts or other devices are usually used if the wall is wooden or is a frame covered with plasterboard.

To connect a water heater with your own hands to the water supply network, turn off the water supply in the house and follow the instructions:

To the cold water supply fitting (it is painted in Blue colour) screw the tee, and to it - a standard check valve (also known as a safety valve).
Connect a ball valve without an American connector to the tee. For ease of emptying, a 90° elbow with a hose connection can be screwed onto it.
Below the check valve, place a ball valve with an American connection. Install the same one on the hot water supply branch (marked in red on the water heater).
Connect the installed fittings to the cold and hot water supply system.

If you installed the boiler yourself in a boiler room or other place where there are no sanitary fixtures under the device, then the safety valve fitting must be connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible tube.

With absence sewer system the tube is lowered into a transparent plastic bottle or a canister. During operation of the unit, the heated water expands, and its excess slowly exits through the safety valve spout.

Thanks to assembled circuit connection, the boiler is easily emptied through a tee with a valve. Before draining, the cold water shut-off valve is closed, and the hot water shut-off valve is opened. You also need to open hot water at the nearest faucet; a maximum of 2 liters will flow out. Then the tap on the tee opens, and from there it drains; the place of water in the tank is taken by air entering through the mixer. Filling the container is simpler: you need to open the cold shut-off valve and wait until water runs out of the previously opened faucet. But first, do not forget to close the valve on the tee.