Installing a boiler with your own hands in a house or apartment. Installation of electric storage water heater Boiler installation and installation

IN Lately water heaters are an integral part of a person’s home; without them it is impossible to imagine a warm and comfortable home. Installing a boiler yourself is not a difficult task. Especially when the homeowner has the necessary skills for this. If they are missing, it is recommended to seek help from specialists.

If you do not have experience installing a boiler, it is better to give this task to a specialist

Main types of boilers

At the moment, water heating boilers are presented in more than just one type. There are many varieties. How to mount and install a boiler in an apartment or house directly depends on its design and type.

Indirect heating unit

These are devices that completely lack heating elements. The water is in the tank, heated from external sources. It can be:

  • heating system;
  • solar panel system.

Some tanks are underfloor water heaters. They, as a rule, are of considerable volume - up to 1 thousand liters - and are located directly on the floor, while others can be hung on the wall.

Boilers happen different types

Gas storage boiler

When installing this boiler, the exhaust must be in working order so that the burnt gas can be released.

Storage type electrical device

The electric boiler is the most popular. It has a water heating tank installed at the bottom, and the water is heated using a heating element. Temperature regulation occurs using a thermostat, which is already built-in.

The most popular boiler is Thermex, it has electronic control of water heating. These boilers are easy to operate, fairly easy to install and are small in size.

In this video you will find out. how to install a water heater:

General rules for installation

There are certain rules for the installation and use of units. For example, the issue with choosing a boiler has already been resolved, and a wall-mounted electric unit has been purchased. Before installing it, you need to follow some recommendations.

First you need to select the location where this device will be mounted. The device must be installed so that all work related to the unit can be easily accessible.

Before installing the hot water tank, it is necessary to evaluate the water supply pipe system. It is necessary to replace old ones with new ones, especially in the insertion area of ​​the device. It can be located either on the floor or on the wall, so it must be strong.

Tanks, as a rule, are 100, 200 or more liters, and the wall should not be made of plasterboard. If in the house wooden partitions, it is necessary to ensure their strength. Before installing the unit, it is necessary to check the wiring, since the device is equipped with powerful heating elements. Because of this, it must withstand the specified load.

To install a boiler in an apartment, you need to make a separate line from the meter, and you need to place a switch in front of the unit. The permissible wire cross-section in this case is 2.5 mm.

Installation instructions

After the main work on preparing the unit has been completed, you need to begin installing the boiler on the wall yourself.

It is necessary to leave a gap of 18-19 cm below the ceiling between the ceiling and the tank. It is recommended to measure the distance from the top of the device to the mounting plate. Mark this gap on the wall from the mark drawn earlier, draw a horizontal line using a level. The unit is installed exactly at this mark.

Sometimes it is necessary to install a water heater in a niche. To do this, you need to place a point between the walls pointing to the center. It is definitely recommended to measure the distance between the central mounting holes. On both sides of the center on the wall, you should mark the interval between the holes for installation.

Then holes are drilled in the wall using a hammer drill. It is recommended to fasten the water heating tank to the wall using a plastic dowel. You need to tighten the hooks in it. After all, you can hang the heating tank on the wall. This completes the main installation.

A very significant factor is the installation of a boiler and its connection to the water supply pipes. To do this, you need to refer to the annotation. According to the instructions, movement cold water indicated by green arrows, and hot by red arrows.

When installing the boiler, you must strictly follow the instructions

From the risers (2,3) it is required to install shut-off valves (5), and then a valve (4), which is designed to shut off the flow of liquid into the boiler. The tap is capable of shutting off the main water supply. Tees (6,7) are cut into pipes that go to the apartment. Valves (8,9) are used for connecting pipes (10,11). For this purpose you can use:

  • flexible hoses;
  • metal-plastic;
  • polypropylene pipes.

The safety valve (12) is installed on the inlet with cold water. Drain pipe(13) is necessary to relieve excess pressure. The valve (14) is installed to the tee.

In order to connect the device to electricity, you need to install a special distribution board. It should be automatic. A three-core cable is pulled to the device. It is connected to the boiler contacts.

In order to protect a person from electric shock, it is recommended to use a residual current device. After a certain period of use, it is recommended to descale the boiler.

There are certain recommendations when installing a boiler yourself in a private house and apartment:

  • safety precautions must be observed;
  • Do not turn on the device without liquid;
  • It is forbidden to drain the water without turning off the power supply;
  • Do not use items that are not included in the kit.

Installing a boiler with your own hands is not a difficult task. It is necessary to choose the device correctly, while taking into account the main interior of the house or apartment. Further correct installation depends on the choice.

Unfortunately, our public utilities system is not able to meet the needs of the population for hot water supply. Therefore, you have to take the initiative into your own hands; the solution is to purchase an electric storage water heater. The rules for choosing are written in another article, but now let’s talk about how to properly install a storage water heater.

Mounting the water heater to the wall.

Due to the fact that storage tanks are often installed in cramped spaces, fastening to the walls must be done in such a way that there is a guarantee of reliability. A tank with a volume of up to 30 liters can be secured using ordinary plastic dowels of the appropriate diameter. More capacious models of water heaters require a special approach. In this case, it is necessary to choose a more reliable and durable fastener for the water heater. Depending on the material from which the supporting wall is constructed, there are different methods for mounting instantaneous water heaters.

Connecting the boiler to the electrical network.

When installing a water heating tank in new buildings, there are no special complaints about the electrical wiring. If you plan to install a storage water heater in premises that were built a long time ago, you need to remember the following. The electrical wiring of such apartments is not designed for modern loads, so connecting devices such as a water heater and washing machine must be done using a dedicated power supply line. The wire cross-section is selected depending on the power consumed by the tank. One of mandatory conditions Electrical safety is grounding of the device. But since installation of a storage water heater is often is carried out in buildings that are not equipped with a grounding line or loop, safe operation can be ensured by the use of an RCD (residual current device). The RCD disconnects the device from the supply network in the event of a phase wire break or a violation of its insulation.

Connecting the water heater to the water supply network.

Conventionally, connection diagrams can be divided into two types:

Installing a storage water heater will help you solve the problem of hot water supply, and will save you from having to run from the kitchen to the bathroom with buckets and pots, comfortable living conditions still play a decisive role in the quality of life.

Advantage electric boiler compared to other water heating devices - versatility. The storage tank is suitable for any apartment and private house, since it consumes only 1.5...3 kW of electricity. Installation permission is not required; to save money, installation is carried out independently. We will tell you how to install a water heater and connect it to the water supply with your own hands in this manual.

Choosing a boiler - how many liters will be needed

We decided to touch on this topic, since the normal supply of hot water to the house (abbreviated as DHW) depends on the volume of the water heater. Buying a tank with a large supply of water is also pointless:

  • the heating time to a comfortable temperature increases;
  • the price of equipment increases;
  • The installation of a storage water heater becomes more complicated due to the large weight of the device + a decent volume of water.

Advice. If you only need a heater for washing dishes, it is better to buy an electric one. flow model low power, which is placed under the kitchen sink or instead of a mixer. Read how to choose the right one in a separate publication.

Capacity storage tank selected according to the consumption of mixed (warm) water per 1 resident per day - 20 liters for hygienic needs, another 12 liters for household needs. How many liters of boiler is needed in total:

  • for economical consumption, a family of 2 people needs 50 liters, for comfortable consumption – 80 liters;
  • 3 people – 80...100 l;
  • 4 family members – 100…120 liters;
  • 5 or more residents actively using hot water– 120...150 l.

Briefly about the principle of operation of the drive

For correct installation and connecting the water heater to engineering networks you need to know the structure and operating principle of the device. The design and operation scheme looks like this:


Reference. The power of the heating element is 1.5...3 kW depending on the volume of the tank. Some flat models of storage boilers are equipped with two electric heaters.

Installation of vertical and horizontal type identical - the intake tube is at the top, the supply tube is at the bottom. Hence arises the main problem maintenance of any storage water heater - it is impossible to drain the water through the tap. The issue is being resolved different ways depending on the strapping scheme, which we will consider later.

Water heater installation instructions

Before installation, or better yet, at the purchase stage, we determine the location of the boiler. There are no restrictions - the device can be installed even in the attic or basement country house. These options are not excluded, but we recommend adhering to the following rules:


Food for thought. In the passport of the Termex water heater (Termex), the manufacturer indicates: if the user decides to install the device in hard to reach place, then you will have to pay for warranty service. In case of replacement, the heater is dismantled independently or at its own expense.

The horizontal version of the boiler cannot be installed vertically and vice versa. Exist universal models, operating in both positions, but in practice the water heater rarely has to be rearranged. Unless when replacing or moving to another place.


When installing the tank, observe the distances indicated in the drawing

Wall mounting methods

One of the disadvantages of storage units is their large mass. For example, the Ariston tank wall mounting(50 liters) weighs 18 kg without water, gross - almost 70 kg. The net weight of a 100-liter water heater is 30 kg, the total weight easily reaches 130 kg.

Heavy boiler tanks have to be attached to different walls:

  • from dense materials - concrete, brick, wooden beam, logs;
  • from porous building materials - aerated concrete, foam blocks;
  • to the partitions frame type, covered with plasterboard, OSB plywood.

Do-it-yourself installation of a water heater on a concrete wall is done using expansion anchors equipped with nuts. The technology is simple: we mark the attachment points along the standard tank bracket, drill holes, insert anchor bolts and screw the boiler with nuts. The depth of the hole and the length of the fastener is at least 7 cm.


An anchor bolt is held in concrete by expanding the end of a metal tube with a flare nut.

Note. Small devices of 30...50 l with one hanging bracket can be mounted on plastic dowels and hooks (or bolts). Water heaters with two brackets cannot be hung on hooks - you will not guess the exact position of the holes so that the load is distributed evenly over 4 points.

In log and timber houses the problem is solved even simpler - a bolt or hook Ø8-10 mm is screwed into a prepared hole of identical diameter. To hang a boiler on aerated concrete or porous brick, the following methods are used:

  1. Lightweight water heaters with a volume of 30-50 liters are attached using plastic dowels designed for foam concrete (shown in the photo below).
  2. Heavy tanks over 80 liters are suspended on special metal dowels into which bolts with regular metric threads are screwed.

    On the left is a dowel made of metal, on the right – from plastic

  3. In materials with large pores and air spaces (for example, ceramic blocks), the boiler will be held in place by chemical anchors.
  4. If the unit is placed in a boiler room or other utility room, where appearance does not play a role, a round support from a strip and 2 steel pipes is welded. The tank is fixed to the wall with simple dowels.

The most difficult thing to install a water heater on is plasterboard structures, especially after renovating the apartment, when the bathroom walls are already tiled. Although 12.5 mm thick gypsum plasterboard sheets can withstand quite heavy objects, you cannot mount the boiler directly to drywall; the fasteners can break out at any time.

What techniques do craftsmen use when installing a water heater on a plasterboard base:


Connecting the boiler to the water supply - 2 proven schemes

Manufacturers of water heaters recommend connecting the device to the pipes of the water supply system in a straight line. That is, there are no fittings or fittings between the safety valve and the cold water fitting. How to make the recommended boiler piping:

  1. Hang the unit on the wall in the desired position. Screw the safety group directly to the cold water pipe and, of course, seal the threads with flax or thread (FUM tape is not the best option).
  2. Install a shut-off ball valve with a diameter of ½“ (DN15) in front of the valve.
  3. To the tap thread and fitting hot water attach the pipes. The joints are made detachable - you need to use fittings with a union nut (American). Acceptable use flexible hoses– ready-made braided hoses.
  4. Place a flexible tube on the outlet of the relief valve, lower the end into the sewer, or better yet, into a transparent one plastic bottle. Then you will be able to notice in time a faulty element or problems with pressure in the system.
  5. To check the tightness of the joints, fill the container - open the hot tap on the mixer and water supply. Wait until water flows from the faucet.

Boiler tank piping diagram recommended by manufacturers. A vertically mounted tank is connected in the same way, only without turning the pipe

Clarification. When piping a horizontally mounted water heater (with side pipes), first install a 90° elbow on the inlet fitting, then a valve. The element's drain spout should point downwards.

The disadvantage of the scheme is the difficulty of emptying the tank to drain. If the boiler is installed in a country house or in country house with periodic heating, it is worth using the piping with a drain valve shown in the picture.

A tee with a side valve appears between the check valve and the fitting, which serves to quickly empty the tank. Shut-off valve on hotline installed in one case - when the water heater is connected to the pipes centralized system DHW.


It is not necessary to install a second shut-off valve on the hot water line

Advice. To connect the device to the water supply, try not to use flexible hoses; it is better to approach the fittings with pipes - PEX-AL-PEX metal-plastic, PPR polypropylene. The lines do not last long and begin to leak in the middle of the night, when the pressure in the network rises to its maximum.

How to apply power

The storage boiler belongs to household electrical appliances increased power. The device must be powered from a separate cable line coming from the common distribution panel. How to properly connect a water heater to the electrical network of an apartment or private house:

  1. To supply voltage from the panel to the boiler, use a three-core copper cable type VVG. Select the wire cross-section according to the power of the unit using the table.

    The table shows the maximum power, so the cable must be taken with a reserve. For most heaters, 2.5 mm sq. wire is suitable.

  2. To protect the supply line, install a differential two-pole circuit breaker with an operating current of 30 mA, as shown in the diagram.
  3. Connecting a grounding conductor is a mandatory requirement of safety regulations.
  4. To connect the wires to the contacts of the heating element, remove the protective plastic cover (usually held on by 2-3 screws).
  5. It is not necessary to install an outlet for the water heater. But if the device is equipped with a factory plug, then the socket can be carefully placed on the side of the tank.

Important point. Do not mount the outlet directly under the water heater, where it could become flooded in the event of an accident. The entire process of strapping and connecting the drive is shown in the video:

Conclusion

There is no point in hiring craftsmen and paying money if you are able to install and connect the water heater yourself. The procedure is quite simple, except for one operation - hanging a heavy tank on the wall, here it is better to call an assistant. In addition, professional installation is not always the case; installers often do everything correctly, but inaccurately.

Boilers with a capacity of up to 30 liters can be hung on almost any wall using plastic dowels. When selecting mounting for tanks with a volume of 50-200 liters, if they must be hung on the wall, the following factors must be taken into account:

If the wall on which the water heater will be mounted is concrete, stone, brick or cinder block, then there are no contraindications to installing the boiler on such a wall. To secure the boiler, metal expansion anchor bolts are usually used:

Photo 1. Appearance sleeve anchor bolts.

Anchors with a hook at the end (1) are convenient because you can first screw them into the wall and then simply hang the water heater. However, the water heater mounting design does not always allow this, and then you will need anchor bolts (2) for a hex key or a Phillips screwdriver (not shown in the photo). The greater the weight of the boiler, the larger diameter and longer anchor bolts may be needed. Structurally, anchor bolts may differ slightly; there are wedge, sleeve, expansion, and drive-in anchor bolts, but their operating principle is approximately the same: when you screw in a screw, the wedge-shaped nut expands the spacer sleeve, thus increasing the diameter of the anchor. Instead of a nut, there may be a wedge-shaped screw head and then the nut is screwed on at the end; the disadvantage of such anchors is that after tightening the screw may come out of the hole further than planned.

The maximum load on an anchor bolt directly depends on the strength of the concrete (in this case we mean heavy concrete), stone, brick or cinder block into which the bolt is driven, while driving anchors into the masonry mortar between stones, bricks or cinder blocks is extremely undesirable unless this is done bearing wall. Yes and load-bearing walls the strength of the masonry mortar is still less than the strength of brick and even cinder block. Of course, any building structure, and in this case, the dimensions of the anchor bolt can be calculated, but to do this you need to know the class of concrete or brand of brick, cinder block, wall thickness, distance from the edge and top of the wall to the hole, and much more. To avoid spending several weeks studying technical documentation building structures, existing species and the intricacies of calculating anchor bolts, are usually guided by the following considerations:

1. After hanging the storage water heater, the load can be distributed so that the main weight will be supported by only one anchor, while the pull-out load will in any case be distributed between 2 anchors (or 2 upper anchors if there are 4 anchors in total).

2. The anchor bolts themselves can withstand a fairly large shear and pull-out load, measured in tons, for example, even the thinnest M6 anchor bolt can withstand a pull-out load of up to 2.4 tons, and a shear load of up to 1.2 tons, but here destruction of the material into which the anchor is driven can occur much earlier. Since the material into which the anchor is hammered works only in compression, but also in tension, and is neither artificial nor a natural stone do not differ in particular tensile strength, this must be taken into account. For example, it is normative permissible load for class B15 concrete in tension is about 7.5 kg/cm 2 , the standard permissible load for class B15 concrete in compression is about 75 kg/cm 2 . The greater the depth of the anchor, the larger area concrete working in tension and, accordingly, the greater the load such an anchor will withstand. For example, with an anchor depth of 10 cm, class B15 concrete will withstand a pullout load of up to 1.2 tons, and with an anchor depth of 6 cm, the maximum load can be 300 kg. And if we use the recommended safety factor = 4, then the maximum load for an anchor bolt 10 cm long will be 300 kg, and for an anchor bolt 6 cm long - 75 kg. Pulling out an anchor from a hole without destroying the material into which the anchor is driven can occur if the anchor was not tightened with insufficient force, or the hole for the anchor is too large diameter. The friction force helps reduce the likelihood of such tearing out, and the larger the diameter of the anchor bolt, the greater the value of the friction force.

3. You can approximately select the length and diameter of the anchor bolts, taking into account the above considerations, using the following table.

Note: You can more accurately determine the pull-out load taking into account the actual dimensions of the boiler. In some models, the pullout force for a tank with a capacity of 80 liters may be greater than for a 150 liter tank from another manufacturer. More details in the article "Determination of pull-out force..."

If you plan to hang an electric storage water heater on a brick partition with a thickness of a quarter or half a brick, on a partition made of reinforced gypsum, gypsum or foam concrete blocks, then it is better to use anchor bolts with a support washer. For such anchors it is drilled through hole, on the side opposite to the mounting location, a washer is installed. The heavier the tank and the thinner the partition, the larger the diameter of the washer should be. However, the name: “anchor bolts” in this case is quite loud; for this purpose, you can use ordinary bolts of the appropriate length and diameter, and instead of washers, you can use pieces sheet metal 1.5-3 mm thick with a hole in the middle. And for water heaters with a volume of 100-200 liters, this may not be enough. To be on the safe side, it is better to use rolling angles rather than washers in order to redistribute the load from the water heater. True, the aesthetic appearance of the adjacent room will clearly not improve from such corners.

Hanging a water heater with a volume of more than 50 liters on adobe walls is quite dangerous. In such cases it is better to make metal carcass from rolled profiles and attach the tank to the frame.

On frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, MDF panels or plastic panels, you can hang the heater only after appropriate reinforcement of the partition frame.

More details on determining the pullout force acting on the top anchors can be found. An example of how, with this knowledge, you can hang a water heater even on freshly laid tiles is also given in a separate article.

2. How to connect electricity.

There seems to be nothing to think about here, you just put the plug into the socket, and there you have it connected. However, not all so simple. It is extremely undesirable to connect a tank without grounding, besides the fact that it can be dangerous to health and even life in the event of a breakdown of the insulation of the phase wire on the housing, and also the internal tank, in which heating directly occurs, will fail faster without grounding, vortex and stray currents will do their job. However, not all apartments and houses have the opportunity to do grounding correctly. In this case electric water heater must be connected through a residual current device - RCD. This will not solve the problem of stray currents, but it will at least make the use of the tank safer.

3. How to connect the water.

To connect water to the heater you need appropriate wiring water pipes. The pipes can be plastic, steel, metal-plastic, copper - this is not the main thing, the main thing is that the wiring is done correctly. The water heater connection diagram will look something like this:

Picture 1. Correct connection of the storage water heater to the water supply network.

1 - storage electric water heater.

2 - main shut-off valve installed on the outlet from the riser.

3 - shut-off valves used for installation and dismantling of the water heater (if there is no grounding, then the water heater will have to be changed quite often). Installing such valves allows you to carry out repair work without shutting off the water supply throughout the entire apartment or house.

4 - drain valve, necessary only for draining water in case of repair or replacement of the water heater.

5 - safety (non-return) valve, installed so that if there is no water in the water supply network, water does not leave the tank. This valve can be considered as a means of additional protection - if, for example, there is no water in the water supply network, and the mixer (7) is left on, then water can gradually flow out of the heating tank, and if the heating element turns on, the risk of its burnout will increase significantly.

6 - flexible water hoses. In fact, it is not at all necessary to use flexible hoses to connect a storage water heater, but whatever one may say, it is much simpler, faster and more convenient than a rigid connection.

7 - mixer (no comments).

However, many people find this connection overly complicated and use the following connection diagram:

Figure 2. Incorrect connection of the storage water heater to the water supply.

Theoretically, such a connection scheme is acceptable if you are 100% sure that there will always be water in the water supply and no one will forget to close the mixer tap or frequent replacement of the heater bothers you less than the aesthetic appearance of the room in which the water heater is installed. Well, if you have to change or repair the water heater, you will have to turn off the water to the entire apartment or house.

A storage electric water heater is also good because it can be connected to an existing water supply network; this is especially true if the electric water heater will be used as an additional source of hot water. In this case, the connection diagram will look something like this:

Figure 3. Using a storage water heater as an additional source of hot water.

In this case, you can’t do without valves (3) that shut off the water supply to the heating tank and from the tank. In addition, the outlet from the hot water riser must be equipped with a check valve to avoid possible leakage of hot water into the common riser. This is possible at different pressures in cold and hot water supply systems, if valve (2) is left open for some reason. As a rule, if water meters are installed in the apartment, then check valves are installed by default. But if there are no meters, then a valve needs to be installed.

DIY water heater installation

  • Recommendations for installing a boiler

After choosing and purchasing a water heater, regardless of its type, the problem arises of installing a water heater with your own hands. Of course, it’s easier to turn to specialists, but there is one catch - the cost of services. Connecting a boiler can cost $100-120. When replacing an old device, the cost of dismantling is added to the amount. The amount, of course, is not prohibitive, but why not try to save money by carrying out the installation yourself.

When installing a boiler, you need to take into account the condition of such things as wiring in the house, the wall on which the device will be mounted, pipes and water supply risers.

Installing a water heater yourself takes about two hours if you have the necessary tools. The skills acquired during the installation process can be useful to you in the future. Step-by-step instruction The installation instructions below will help you in your work.

In addition to choosing the type and model of the water heater, before starting work you need to decide on some nuances. The choice of installation location should take into account access to the boiler throughout its entire service life. The wall on which the device will be mounted must support the weight of the device itself and the water contained in it.

It is necessary to assess the condition of the wiring in the house, its cross-section and ability to withstand the loads of the electric boiler. Check pipes and risers. If they have not been replaced for a long time or do not have points for connecting the water heater. this can make it very difficult installation work. Before you begin installing both a storage and instantaneous water heater, you need to prepare everything necessary materials and tools:

  • tow;
  • Unipack paste;
  • FUM tape;
  • shut-off valves;
  • tees;
  • flexible connecting hoses;
  • metal-plastic pipe;
  • perforator;
  • roulette;
  • adjustable and spanners;
  • screwdrivers;
  • pliers;
  • wire cutters.

If you need to replace the wiring in your house, you will additionally need to purchase a three-wire wire, a circuit breaker, and a socket.

Return to contents

Do-it-yourself instantaneous water heater installation

The main feature of such devices is their low weight and dimensions, which significantly expands the methods and locations for their installation. Since water must heat up quickly, boilers flow type equipped with fairly powerful heating elements. This makes wiring requirements more stringent. Depending on the power of the device, it is necessary to lay a cable from 4 to 6 sq. mm. In addition, you need to find out how much current the meter can withstand. If this value is less than 40 A, you will have to replace it too. To install a instantaneous water heater with your own hands, you will need a 40 A automatic switch and a 3x8 PVA cable if the wiring is not designed to connect electric stoves.

Connection diagram for instantaneous water heater.

Having solved the problem with the wiring and the meter, you can proceed directly to installation. Installation of a water heater of this type is carried out in two ways: temporary and permanent. The temporary one operates using a shower hose; it can be turned off when the hot water supply is running. Installing a boiler in this way requires a cold water supply. To do this, a tee is cut into the cold water supply pipe, a shut-off valve is installed and connected to the water heater inlet using a flexible hose. When you open the cold water tap, open the heated water outlet, plug the device into the network and after 30 seconds you get hot water.

When permanently installing a water heater with your own hands, the supply of cold water and the intake of heated water will be carried out parallel to the general water supply system. This requires two tees, which are cut into the cold and hot water pipe. The taps are installed, the connections are sealed using tow with FUM tape or a special paste. Next, depending on the type of connection, the cold water pipe is connected to the inlet to the boiler.

The outlet of heated water using hoses or a metal-plastic pipe is connected to a hot water tap. Open the taps and mixer, check the tightness of the connections, if there are no leaks, plug the device into the network. After this, hot water will come out of the mixer.

With a permanent connection, when installing a water heater, you need to remember the need to shut off the hot water riser if you live in apartment building.

Return to contents

Do-it-yourself storage water heater installation

The main feature of storage type water heaters is their lower price and the absence of electrical wiring requirements. That's why they are more popular.

Installation of boilers of this type begins with marking the location where the device is mounted on the wall. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the holes in the device’s anchors. Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled for dowels; there can be 2 or 4 of them, depending on the design of the water heater. After this, dowels are inserted and hooks are driven in. Another marking point is to measure the height from the holes on the anchors of the water heater and its highest point. This distance must be maintained from the ceiling to the dowel. If a mistake is made, the device will not fit on the hooks.

After fixing the device to the wall, proceed to connecting the water supply. If connection points are already available, installation will be simple: the device is connected to the pipes using flexible hoses or pipes. When making a connection using flexible hoses, tow will not be required, since the tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber gasket.

A valve must be installed at the cold water inlet to remove excess pressure. Usually it is included in the kit, if it is not, then the valve should be purchased. It is advisable to embed another tee in front of it, connecting a tap to it. You can do without a tap, but then maintenance will be difficult due to difficulties in draining water from the boiler. All connections are sealed with tow with paste or FUM tape.

If there are no leads, you must install them yourself. In the case where the pipeline layout is made of metal-plastic pipes, the work will take no more than 20 minutes. You will have to tinker with metal pipes. To install tees into a metal pipe, you will need a die with a diameter equal to the diameter of the pipe.

Before starting work, turn off the water, cut the pipe with a grinder, cut the thread using a die, wind the tow and connect the tee or adapter to the pipe, after which the faucet is installed.

After connecting the cold water, the hot water tap is connected to the outlet on the boiler, marked in red. No additional elements are required here. After connecting the water supply, open the cold or hot water taps and wait until water comes out of the hot water tap. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there are no leaks at the connections.

If there are no leaks and all the air has been released from the water heater, the device must be connected to a power source. The connection can be made using a socket or a separate circuit breaker. The contacts on the boiler terminals are marked N - zero, or return wire (blue), L - phase (brown) and ground (yellow). After connection, voltage is applied and the operation indicator on the water heater should light up. The temperature is regulated according to the instructions for the water heater. The installation of a instantaneous water heater can be considered complete.

Correct installation of a water heater in an apartment or private house - universal solutions ensure uninterrupted hot water supply. The condition is especially relevant for residents apartment buildings, where the hot water supply is periodically turned off (seasonal pressure testing of pipes, prevention, diagnostics, repair, etc.).

So, the choice has been made, all proposals for installing a water heater by “masters” at exorbitant prices have been rejected, and it has been decided to install the boiler yourself. There is nothing supernatural about the connection, but it will require some tools and attention.

Do-it-yourself storage water heater installation

Before proceeding with installation, it is recommended to determine the load-bearing capacity of the wall where the heating device will be installed. Will it hold up? Still, the weight will be considerable. If there are doubts about the strength of the wall, then you can build a supporting stand or some additional brackets for the device.

Since there will be no need to immediately regulate the temperature, in our case we do not consider the distance from the point of use - we install the boiler where it is convenient for us.

Otherwise, everything is the same as in the case of instantaneous water heater. We drill holes, drive in dowels and attach the water heater.


Installation and connection of a storage water heater to the water supply and electrical network

Connecting a storage water heater to a water supply - diagram

Installing a storage water heater requires a more thorough approach. In addition, it allows you to use hot water from the device throughout the apartment.

Storage water heater design diagram


Scheme of a storage water heater In the diagram we see typical connection water heater (storage) to the water supply.

Designations "hot water" and "cold water"- these are “risers” - two pipes passing through all the apartments of the entrance and supplying them with water (cold and hot).

1-2 – water taps. They shut off or open the circulation of water to and from the tank from the water heater. When the device is working, the taps are opened; when not in use, they are, of course, closed.

3-4 – water taps entering the apartment. They are necessary to shut off the water supply to the apartment.

5 - one of important elementscheck valve. It is necessary to protect the electric water heater heating element from overheating (in the event of a cold water shutdown, the water heater tank is not left without water and its heating elements will not burn out).

To understand, let’s look at the design of a storage water heater; the principle is as follows: water is supplied from below. And if suddenly the water supply is suddenly turned off, all of it will rush into the already empty riser with cold water, the heating elements will begin to heat the air and simply burn out. The check valve is designed to prevent such an accident.

Any good storage water heater includes such a protective device. Be careful when checking the contents!

6 - drain valve- a tap that is designed to empty the water heater storage tank. For obvious reasons, such a tap should be provided when installing a water heating device: before dismantling (if necessary) the water heater, it will allow all the water to be drained from the tank. After all, depending on the capacity of the water heater, the tank may contain 100-150 liters of water….

Attention to the diagram: be sure to place the water drain valve higher check valve. Otherwise, you will not be able to empty the tank - water simply will not flow out of the container.

How to use water heater taps (close and open)

"1" and "2" will be needed to turn off the water when the electric heater is not in use. For example, if we needed to remove the last one.

The taps are indicated by numbers in the diagram "3" and "4" are available in any apartment connected to the central water supply, located after the risers, because we sometimes have to turn off the water for various reasons.

Let's pay attention to the tap "4"— it blocks the circulation of hot water between the apartment and the riser while the device is operating. If the tap is not turned off, then all residents of the entrance will be able to use hot water from our water heater - the water will go into the riser.

The main rule of use- if hot water is supplied by the city boiler house, the water heater is in the off mode - “1” and “2” taps are closed, and “3” and “4” are open, respectively. If the boiler room “stands up” for maintenance and the hot water is turned off, we connect our device to the 220V network, open taps “1” and “2”, and close tap “4”.

Connection diagram of a storage water heater to an open tank

In private houses, cottages or dachas where there is no centralized water supply (or for other reasons), water storage tanks are used, which are usually located on the roof. This is not a limitation for using the water heater. The only thing is that the distance from the device to the container must be at least 2 m, and if the pressure in the water supply is more than 6 bar, then it is necessary to install a reducer (at the inlet, in front of the boiler) to reduce the pressure.

Depending on the distance from the top point of the boiler or pumping station apply different schemes connections.

Connection diagram if the height between the water heater and the water tank is less than 2 meters


Connection diagram for a storage water heater below 2 m

Connection diagram if the height between the boiler and storage tank for water more than 2 meters


Connection diagram for a storage water heater above 2 m


Installation diagram of a water heater with connection to hot and cold water supply risers

How to install an electric storage water heater - video
Connecting the water heater to the electrical network

Since the operation of the water heater requires a connection to a 220V network and mandatory grounding, then the best option will be connected to an existing outlet for washing machine- through a plug (of course, provided that this socket is installed on a separate line in compliance with the rules).

If the apartment does not have such an outlet, then it would be best to contact an electrician for qualified help in electrical wiring. There are several reasons for this.

  • First, working with electrical wiring requires certain skills and knowledge, and if certain points are not observed during installation, there is a risk of electric shock or failure of electrical appliances.
  • Secondly, you will have someone to blame for poor quality work. Of course, if you have entered into an agreement with a contractor.
  • And finally, there will be no problems with which wire to choose, which machines to install.

Perhaps this will prompt you to inspect the electrical wiring throughout the apartment.

Well, in conclusion, I would like to wish you pleasant water treatments.

Similar news
DIY water heater installation

After choosing a water heater, regardless of its type, a question arises related to its installation. There are two ways: install the water heater yourself or entrust it to specialists. The second option is simpler and preferable for most people, but there is one drawback - the cost of services. For example, the cost of connecting a boiler up to 50 liters in Moscow will cost you 100 - 120 USD. And if you need to replace the old one, then to this amount you need to add 300 rubles for dismantling. The amount is not exorbitant, but why not try to keep it in your pocket by installing a water heater.

Installing a water heater with your own hands will take an average of 2 hours, if you have all the necessary tools. And the acquired skills will be useful in the future, and the amount intended to pay for the installation will remain with you.

Popular wisdom insists that we “measure seven times” and cut only once. And I think this rule also applies to choosing the method of installing a water heater. If you don't have even the slightest experience plumbing work, it is best to trust the specialists. This especially applies to those cases when a water heater is installed in an apartment, and there are neighbors on the floor below. If something goes wrong, you risk flooding them.

But, if you are trying to carry out repair work yourself, then following step by step, install the water heater without any problems. To the advantages self-installation the following can be attributed:

  • cost savings;
  • saving time;
  • acquiring skills that will become indispensable when servicing or repairing a water heater;
  • when repair work in the room where the water heater is installed, you do not need to call a specialist for dismantling.

Schematic photo of water heater installation

In addition to choosing the model and type of water heater, even before starting work, you need to decide on the following points. Installation location:

  • access to the water heater must be free throughout the entire period of operation;
  • the wall on which the water heater is mounted must withstand double the weight (i.e., with a capacity of 50 liters, a load of 100 kg must be calculated);
  • if the wiring in the home has not been changed for a very long time, it is necessary to determine its condition, cross-section and ability to withstand the load of an electric water heater (for example, for a storage water heater with a power of 2000 W, the cross-section of the copper wire should be 2.5 mm2);
  • the condition of the pipes and risers, if replacement has not been carried out or the “points” for connecting the water heater have not already been identified (I know from my own experience when, instead of installing a boiler, I was forced to change all the pipes in the apartment, since their condition did not allow them to “break in”).

Before starting work on installing a Thermex or any other water heater, prepare all necessary tool: tape measure, hammer drill with appropriate drill, wrenches and/or adjustable wrench, two types of screwdrivers, wire cutters, pliers.

Materials you will need: tow, paste (for example, Unipak) or fum tape, shut-off valves (3 pcs. for a storage water heater and 2 pcs. for a flow-through water heater), 2 or 3 tees, respectively, two flexible connecting hoses (if not included in the kit ), metal-plastic pipe (meterage depends on your conditions and connection location).

If you need to replace the wiring: a three-wire wire (you determine the length yourself), a machine or a socket. That's all, we bought the water heater, everything mentioned above is in stock - we can start installation.

Installation of an electric instantaneous water heater

A distinctive feature of this type of water heaters is their low weight and size, which significantly expands their installation location. For example, it is possible to install a water heater under the kitchen sink. But since water must be heated very quickly, they have very powerful heating elements installed. And this, in turn, places demands on the wiring, so depending on the performance of the device, cable laying from 4 to 6 mm2 is required. In addition, you should find out what current the meter is designed for; if it is less than 40A, you will need to replace it too. To connect an instantaneous electric water heater you will need circuit breaker for 32 - 40A, PVS cable 3X6 or 3X8, if the wiring in your apartment is not designed for the use of electric stoves.

Having solved the problem with the voltage supply, we proceed directly to the installation. This type The water heater has two connection options: stationary and temporary. Temporary is carried out using a shower hose, and when hot water is supplied it can easily be turned off and not used. For this type of connection, it is necessary to supply cold water. To do this, we cut a tee into a pipe with cold water, install a shut-off valve and use a flexible hose to connect it to the water heater inlet. We open the cold water tap, open the heated water outlet and plug it into the network, for 30 seconds we get hot water.

With the stationary method, the supply and intake of heated water will be carried out in parallel common system water supply To do this, we need two tees, we cut them into the hot and cold water pipe. We install the taps, do not forget to make the connection airtight using tow with sealing paste or fum tape. Next, depending on your choice of connection method, we connect the cold water pipe to the inlet to the heater, the cold water supply is indicated in blue. We connect the heated water outlet using a hose or metal-plastic pipe to the hot water shut-off valve. We open the taps and mixer, check if everything is sealed, if there is no leak, plug in the machine or plug into the socket, hot water should come out of the mixer. With a stationary connection method, do not forget to shut off the hot water riser if you live in an apartment building. Otherwise, the heated water will go into the pipes of the neighbors.

Installation of an electric storage water heater

A distinctive feature of storage-type electric water heaters is their significantly lower price and the absence of special requirements for electrical wiring. That's why they are more common.

Let's look at the step-by-step installation of a storage water heater with your own hands:

  • At the selected location, mark a place for attaching the boiler to the wall. Using a tape measure, measure the distance between the axes of the holes in the anchors of the water heater. Using a hammer drill, we drill holes for the dowels; depending on the design of the water heater, there can be 2 or 4 of them, as a rule, there are two of them. Insert the dowels and hammer/tighten the hooks. One more thing when marking, measure the height from the holes on the boiler anchors and its highest point. The same distance, with a small margin, must be maintained from the dowel to the ceiling or the top of the niche in which the installation is carried out. If you do not do this, you will not be able to put the devices on the hooks.​


  • After our water heater is fixed to the wall, we proceed to connecting the water supply. If the connection points have already been drawn out, there is nothing simpler - we connect the input and output of the heater using flexible hoses or pipes. If the connection is made using flexible hoses, you will not need tow, because The tightness of such a connection is achieved through a sealing rubber gasket. When entering cold water into the boiler (marked in blue), do not forget to install a special valve to relieve excess pressure (shown in the photo). It is usually included in the kit, if not, purchase it, it is a must have. Before the shut-off valve, it is advisable to install another tee and connect a tap to it. You can do without it, but then during maintenance it will be more difficult to drain the water from the water heater. This point is highlighted in the official video below on installing an Ariston water heater. We wrap tow with paste or fum tape around all joints.



  • If there are no leads, you need to install them. In the event that your water supply is installed with metal-plastic pipes, the work will take about 20 minutes, if metal pipes- more complicated. To “cut” tees into metal pipes, in addition to everything, you will need a die with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the pipe at the junction. You may need an appropriate adapter. The operating procedure is as follows: turn off the water, use a grinder to cut the pipe at the location where the tee is installed, use a die to cut the thread, wind the tow and connect the adapter or tee to the pipe, then install the faucet and continue as in point 2. It is best to prepare the leads for the water heater in advance. We will not describe in more detail, since this type of work relates more to the installation of water supply systems; on our website there are articles with detailed description these works.
  • After connecting the cold water, connect the hot water tap to the outlet on the water heater, it is marked in red. This connection does not require any additional elements.
  • After connecting the water supply, open the cold and hot water tap, wait until air stops coming out of the hot water tap and water starts flowing. Along the way, we look to see if there are any leaks in the places where the connections were just made.
  • If there is no leak, the air has been bled from the boiler, connect the power source. The connection method is up to you to choose; it can be a socket or a connection through a separate circuit breaker. On the boiler terminals, the contacts are marked, L - phase (usually corresponds to the brown wire in the plug or wiring), N - zero or return wire (usually blue) and ground (yellow or any other in a three-wire wire). We connect and apply voltage, the operation indicator on the water heater should light up, adjust temperature regime according to the instruction manual and use it.

​Don’t forget to look at the water heater installation manual Ariston, Termex and many other companies cover the connection procedure in sufficient detail. There is nothing fundamentally incomprehensible or complicated.

Step-by-step water heater installation video

​​

Gas water heater installation

This section of the article is intended to replace the geyser, because If it doesn't exist at all, you can't install it yourself. You need a corresponding project, all the approvals required by law. Otherwise, it is a violation of the Law with corresponding consequences.

If the corresponding project is available, the gas industry has carried out all the necessary work to connect the gas pipe to the column, installed gas meter- the rest of the work can be done by yourself, i.e. install a gas instantaneous water heater.


The work order is as follows:

  • At the installation site, according to the project, we mark holes for dowels in the same way as the method described above. We drill holes and hammer in hooks.
  • Hanging geyser on wall mounts.
  • Installing corrugation for drainage carbon monoxide into the chimney. One end of it should fit tightly into the chimney, the other should be placed on the outlet of the column. Make sure that the diameter of the corrugation matches the diameter of the outlet of the gas water heater.
  • Connecting gas pipe with the gas injection point in the column using a special certified rubber hose. Open the tap and let gas flow to the column. We prepare a soap solution and “heartily” lubricate all the connections just made. We carefully look at these junctions to see if there are any “soap bubbles”. If they appear, use a wrench to tighten the hose connection nut and see if it helps or not. If gas leakage cannot be eliminated in this way, call a gas technician. But in my mind, it’s better to entrust such a connection to him, the native gas industry. On the one hand, it is safer and more reliable, on the other hand, there will be no complaints against you.
  • The next operation is water supply. We carry it out either using flexible hoses, or PVC pipes, it's whatever you like. The procedure is similar to connecting an electric water heater, only without additional elements. That is, the sequence is as follows: pipe, tee, faucet, pipe or hose connecting to the column. You can install a salt filter on the cold water pipe - this will extend the life of the column. The cold water inlet, like on the boiler, is marked in blue. The hot water outlet is red.
  • We open the cold and hot water tap, pass it through the system and look for a leak. If we find it, we fix it: either tighten the nuts or rewind the tow. We tighten the nuts with feeling, without unnecessary zeal, and do not break the threads.
  • After making sure there are no leaks, install the power source and open the hot water tap. The column should automatically turn on the water heating and within a few seconds warm water should flow. We adjust the temperature according to the instructions for the gas water heater.
  • All of the above work costs from 60 USD. If you did everything yourself, you can be congratulated on your earnings.

    Articles on the topic