In addition to pests, garden flowers infect diseases - both fungal and viral. In addition, flowering plants are prone to bacterial infections - bacteria remain on flowers for several years and can spread throughout the garden, transmitted from diseased plants to healthy plants by wind, water drops and insects. Why flowers get sick and how to treat them - read in this material.
Flower diseases powdery mildew and peronosporosis
powdery mildew- the most common disease of garden flowers, caused by several types of pathogenic fungi.
The disease is characterized by the formation of a white or brownish-gray powdery coating on the surface of shoots, leaves, buds, twigs.
Affected leaves curl, sometimes fall off, shoots stop growing and, with a strong development of the disease, die off. This fungal disease of flowers spreads very quickly, affecting primarily young shoots and leaves. The causative agent of the disease overwinters on dead parts of plants.
How to treat this flower disease on garden plot? Along with the creation of optimal conditions for the development of plants in the fight against powdery mildew, it is necessary to use special preparations of curative, eradicating and preventive action. These are Topaz and Skor. It is important not to "start" the disease and spray when the first signs appear. If necessary, the treatment with pesticides is repeated after two weeks. In the summer months, when the air temperature is above +22.. .+23 °С nice results gives the treatment of plants with gray garden, colloidal or "Tpobit".
The intensity of the development of the disease of flowers powdery mildew somewhat restrains the spraying of plants with copper-containing preparations.
Downy mildew (downy mildew) affects various plants, but of flower crops, it poses the greatest danger to tobacco.
The infection develops on the leaves: light yellow angular oily spots appear on their upper side, which subsequently turn brown, on the lower side.
As can be seen in the photo, the disease of flowers, peronosporosis, provokes the formation of grayish-purple plaque in places of spots, consisting of pathogenic conidia:
The spots gradually increase, merge, and the leaf dries out.
The causative agent of downy mildew persists in the remains of diseased leaves in the form of zoospores, which can be viable for up to six years. In moist soil, they germinate, and infection of tobacco seedlings occurs.
To protect against this disease, when planting flyers, it is necessary to return tobacco no earlier than six years later in case of disease of this crop in the previous year. Do not plant seedlings too densely. When sowing seeds in the soil of a flower garden or resuming plants from self-sowing, break through the seedlings in a timely manner.
How to treat flowers for this disease? When the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the plants with Profit Gold twice with an interval of 10-14 days.
Heavily affected plants that have lost their decorative effect must be removed from the flower garden with their subsequent destruction.
Why flowers and remedies for diseases get sick
Fusarium- a disease of plants, which is caused by various species of the Fusarium fungus. This disease is most dangerous for one-year-olds, they get sick at any age. In diseased young plants, the leaves turn pale, droop and dry out. In adults, they turn yellow first lower leaves, then the whole plant.
Look at the photo - with this disease of flowers, the leaves curl and fade:
The stem at the root collar acquires a brown color, which gradually spreads upwards, and the stem often rots in the region of the root collar. In this case, the outside of the stem is covered with a pink bloom of spores of the fungus - the causative agent of the disease.
Infection of plants occurs through the roots. Penetrating into the vascular system and releasing toxic substances, the fungus disrupts the normal supply of nutrients and water to the plant. This is what leads to decay. The disease manifests itself faster on weakened plants. The disease is promoted by increased air humidity and a temperature of more than 25 ... 27 ° C.
The infection is transmitted through soil and seeds.
It is necessary to observe the correct alternation, return to its original place no earlier than after 4-5 years. When the first signs of fusarium appear, diseased plants are pulled out and destroyed. The best means for flowers from this disease - solutions "Fitosporin-M" or "Maxim". In the future, it is necessary to strengthen the phosphorus-potassium top dressing and periodically, until September, with an interval of 10-12 days, spray the plants with Abiga-Peak or Oxyhom.
Flower leaf diseases rust and spotting
One of the most dangerous leaf diseases of flowers are rust and spotting.
Rust- a fungal disease that strongly affects calendula, antirrinum, asters and other annual plants.
Leaves and stems are affected. At first, light brown small pads (pustules) filled with summer spores appear on them. As the pads mature, the epidermis ruptures and a mass of brown spores dissipates from the pustules. Later, by autumn, winter fruiting develops on the same leaves - flat orange pads filled with brown spores. They overwinter and germinate in the spring.
Spores are easily carried by the wind, sometimes over a long distance, and, falling on the leaves, continue their development.
With a rust disease, the leaves gradually fade and dry out. Plants lose their decorative effect.
Control measures:
High agricultural technology contributes to the development healthy plants, increases their resistance various diseases including rust. If rust still appears on the plants, to treat this flower disease, you need to spray the plants with copper-containing preparations (Abiga-Peak, Ordan or Oxyhom).
leaf spot occurs on many flowering plants and is caused by various types of pathogenic fungi. There are gray, white, brown, brown, black spots. As a rule, the spots are initially round, then oblong or angular with concentric zones, sometimes with a rim of a brighter color.
Gradually, the spots increase in size, the leaves turn yellow and die prematurely. This weakens the plant, the buds develop poorly, with a strong development of spotting, flowering stops. Plant death is also possible. The development of the disease is facilitated by a thickened planting, high humidity air, unilateral nitrogen fertilization and other factors causing a general weakening of the plant.
Control measures:
Avoid weakening plants. Remove fallen and severely affected leaves. At the first signs of the disease, spray the plants with any copper-containing preparation (Abiga-Peak, Oksikhom, Copper oxychloride, Hom, Ordan, Bordeaux liquid, etc.). If necessary, repeat the treatment after 8-10 days, alternating preparations.
Viral and bacterial infections of flowers
Viral diseases of flowers have characteristics that distinguish them from others. Most often it is mosaic, curling and twisting of leaves, variegation and growth of flowers. Viruses enter healthy plants during cuttings, cut flowers and infect them. The main carriers of viral diseases are sucking insects (aphids, thrips, cicadas).
Measures to combat viral diseases of flowers - the destruction of diseased plants at the beginning of the disease, the fight against sucking insects.
Bacterial diseases of flowers. Bacteria are the smallest single-celled organisms that, under favorable conditions, multiply extremely quickly, affecting grown plants. Bacteria develop especially rapidly at a temperature of +20…+30°C and high humidity.
Bacterial diseases are transmitted from diseased plants to healthy insects, wind, water drops and humans. Bacteria remain on roots, seeds and affected plant debris without losing viability for several years.
One of the most common bacterial diseases of letnovye is leaf spot, which differs from fungus by the presence of an oily halo around the spot.
Knowing the enemy by sight means getting closer to defeating him. In the case of garden enemies, this is especially true. Understanding which garden and garden pests are the most dangerous, how to recognize them, and most importantly, how to deal with them will help save the crop, save time and insure against their invasion in the future. Below are the top 10 harmful insects and animals that every gardener and gardener simply must know about.
Enemy number 1 - aphid: what is dangerous and how to win
Aphids are an insect that is equally dangerous for both the garden and the garden. The pest sucks the juice from the leaves and weak shoots, simultaneously poisoning the plants with poisons that cause their inevitable death. Aphids are a carrier of infections and viruses, in the absence of timely extermination measures, they can destroy most of the crop, especially fruits in the garden.
You can and should fight aphids in the following ways:
- Mechanical - washing away the insect with a jet of water under pressure (not 100% effect).
- Treatment with an ash-soap solution for both control and prevention of the appearance of an insect.
- Removal of aphid carriers - ants from the site.
- Tinctures based on plants with insecticidal properties (garlic, dandelion, sorrel, marigolds, etc.).
- Decoctions of tobacco, celandine, yarrow, tansy, bitter pepper, wormwood, etc.
- By planting aphid-repellent crops near the affected plants that can release phytoncides (mint, lemon balm, mustard, lavender, etc.).
If none of the methods solves the problem, insect pests can be destroyed using chemicals.
Enemy number 2 - moles: how to drive away from the site?
At first glance, harmless and cute moles in the garden or in the garden can become a real misfortune if you do not take action. Animals break through numerous passages at shallow depths, affecting the root systems of plants, spoiling flower beds and violating landscape design.
You can fight moles different ways. There are humane options with scaring away animals with special repellers or removing them from the site using traps. More cruel methods involve the extermination of moles by chemical and mechanical methods.
Enemy number 3 - whitefly: what harm does it do and can it be destroyed?
Every summer resident knows that whiteflies are frequent pests of the garden, not indifferent to a number of vegetable crops. The insect's favorite delicacy is pumpkin, cucumbers, tomatoes and squash. Finding a whitefly in a garden or greenhouse is easy. Visually, these are small insects with a yellow body, two pairs of wings with a characteristic white waxy coating.
Whitefly larvae are pale green in color with an oval body, a small pile of hair and filaments at the base of the abdomen. Adult females leave their eggs with reverse side leaves in the form of a ring. The larvae suck the juice from the leaves, pollute them with excrement. The result is a sooty fungus on the surface of the leaf and the death of the plant over time.
Chemical preparations are considered the most effective against whiteflies: Aktofit, Gaaupsin, Vermicide.
Enemy number 4 - fleas: what affects and how to fight?
Not everyone knows that tiny and almost invisible fleas are also considered pests of fields and gardens where they grow white and red cabbage, radish, radish and turnip. Having a body several millimeters in length, insects can significantly harm the crop by gnawing holes in the leaves and heads of crops.
They fight the flea with frequent watering, planting on a cloudy day and earlier than expected, choosing garlic and onions as neighbors for crops. The first traces of the appearance of fleas should be a signal for quick action. Alternatively, you can prepare a simple tincture of garlic, tomato leaves and a spoonful of soap for spraying, or a well-known pest control based on dandelion roots and leaves for spraying crops.
Enemy number 5 - the worst pest Colorado potato beetle
A dangerous beetle pest for potatoes, as well as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants - Colorado. Adults are quite large with a bright orange-yellow body covered with longitudinal black stripes. Beetle larvae completely eat the leaves of crops, therefore, at the first sign of the appearance of a pest, measures must be taken.
You can fight adversity with a proven mechanically, collecting beetles and larvae by hand, destroying the oviposition. Additionally, after the assembly is completed, the plants are treated with wood ash tincture, liquid soap and chopped tops of wormwood, mixed with hot water and infused for several days.
Ready-made means for insect control - "Akotfit" and specialized "Coloradocid".
Enemy number 6 - exclamation scoop: what is dangerous
The exclamation owl in the area can be recognized by the characteristic wedge-shaped spot at the base of the wings, resembling an exclamation mark. In females, the wings are light gray, in males several tones darker.
Females are of particular harm to the plant. They lay their eggs on weeds, and after a week caterpillars up to 5 mm long appear from them. They gnaw the leaves of crops, feast on root crops, leaving behind wide passages and depressions. The exclamation armyworm causes damage to more than 80 species of plants in the garden and in the garden, therefore it is considered one of dangerous enemies for the harvest.
There are many ways to deal with insects. After they pupate, it makes sense to use bait traps. Caterpillars, on the other hand, can be stopped by regular loosening of the soil, destroying their underground possessions. Of the chemicals, Talstar and Cictor have proven themselves well, which can be additionally combined with folk remedies - decoctions of wormwood, tomato tops and henbane. It will be possible to achieve mass extermination of the insect by seasonally digging the soil in late autumn.
Enemy number 7 - common bear: what harm does it bring?
This insect belongs to the category of earth pests, as it damages the underground parts of crops, including potato tubers. Under the influence of an insect, the seedlings of the plant dry out and cannot be restored. Potato tubers acquire an irregular shape with numerous cavities.
It is easy to recognize an insect by its characteristic distinctive features. This is a large (up to 6 cm long) dark-colored pest with a digging-type front paws, leathery front and membranous long hind wings.
The larvae bear many similarities to the adults, differing only in the absence of wings. Pests settle in areas fertilized with humus with moist soil, dotting them with horizontal passages. The larvae feed first on humus, and as they mature, on roots and root crops.
You can defeat the bear in the garden or in the garden by simply loosening the soil with the onset of spring and early summer. The processing depth should be at least 15 cm. Also, as an option, you can try to influence pests by arranging trapping pits up to 30 cm deep and up to 70 cm in diameter with manure at the bottom. Bears crawl into wintering pits, where they can be destroyed using chemical and biological preparations, for example, Metarizin.
Enemy number 8 - leaf beetles: how to find out and how to exterminate?
Small garden pests leaf beetles are small (up to 10 mm in length) beetles, the larvae of which harm most of the plants. Insects are brightly colored and represented by numerous species, among which is the previously described Colorado potato beetle.
You can fight leaf beetles with chemicals:
- "Corado";
- "Fury";
- "Commander";
- Kinmiks, etc.
As an option, it is worth trying alternative folk remedies, for example, a decoction of tomato tops, poured with boiling water and infused for several hours to process plants.
Enemy number 9 - meadow moth: what it eats and how to fight
Studying the photos and names of the main pests of the garden and garden, you should pay attention to the meadow moth, which harms not only flowers, but also trees, garden crops and shrubs. The insect destroys leaves, ovary, bark, damages fruits and even seeds. In one day, two dozen caterpillars are able to completely destroy the plant and move on to the next.
The meadow moth searches for food at night, during the day it camouflages itself in the grass. Females lay eggs, from which pest larvae appear after a few days. The warmer the weather and the higher the humidity level, the more favorable conditions for insect development.
First of all, you need to fight the moth by removing weeds from the site. From the first days of spring, it is recommended to treat plants with insecticidal preparations, repeating the treatment every 2 weeks. Means “Lepidocide” and “Bitoxibacillin” that are safe for cultures and humans have proven themselves worthy. Caterpillars at the last stage of development will be able to exterminate more radically acting means "Fufanon" and "Fury".
Enemy number 10 - slugs: what are the dangers and what methods of struggle to choose?
Just like moles, slugs may seem completely harmless at first glance. In fact, shellfish pose a serious threat to the garden. Deprived of a shell, they choose for themselves the wettest areas of the site, try to settle in a shelter made of cardboard, boards, stones.
Slugs can harm almost all plants without exception, damaging the stems of seedlings, crawling into fruits and root crops.
You can fight slugs in the first place by reducing the level of humidity in the area. This is easy to do with a quality drainage device. In addition, regular weeding of the soil will help reduce the number of mollusks with the removal of possible places for shelters - boards, stones and other objects.
The settlement of natural enemies will also play a role. Rooks, starlings, frogs, hedgehogs - they all feed on slugs, so they will help to cope with the problem in a natural way.
You can complicate the movement of insects with the help of sprinkled with sand or crushed eggshell tracks.
In conclusion, we note that the pests listed above are far from the entire list. In the garden and in the garden, there are other types of insects, molluscs and animals that can significantly reduce the number of crops, causing tangible inconvenience to the owners of the site. When practicing methods of dealing with the most frequent uninvited guests in the garden or in the garden, you should not forget to study the list of crop pests, arming yourself with knowledge for effective control.
I think you know about plants that help us fight pests and garden diseases. I must say, among these defenders there are quite nice specimens.
MARIGOLD
For many years we have been sowing these flowers along the perimeter of the garden and in the aisles of various crops. Thanks to their unique properties they scare away nematodes from potatoes, tomatoes; strawberry weevil from strawberries; as well as onion fly, white cabbage and scoop. Marigolds protect wheat, clover, flax and some other crops from Fusarium.
When aphids appear on peas, cabbage, apple trees, cherries, plums, currants, gooseberries and other crops, I definitely treat them with infusion of marigolds. For this ground part plants I grind with secateurs and fill half a bucket. I fill it to the top with warm water (40-60 degrees) and insist for two days. Then I filter it, pour it into the sprayer, adding 40 g of liquid soap so that the solution sticks to the plants.
Processing rate: 2 liters per 10 sq.m of plot with vegetable crops, per bush or tree up to 6 years; 6-8 l - for an older fruit-bearing tree.
To improve the soil before plowing, I scatter crushed marigold stalks. It also scares away the bear.
NATURTIAN
This flower is not only beautiful, but, in addition, is an excellent green fertilizer. It is enough to plant two or three plants under an apple, peach or cherry tree to admire the flowering all summer, and in the fall, chop the plants and dig them in the trunk circle.
If several nasturtium bushes are placed in a greenhouse or in a bed between tomatoes, it will scare away the whitefly. And from cabbage - white.
CALENDULA
I plant this plant between asters. This protects them from fusarium, a fairly common fungal disease. I also plant rose bushes with marigolds and thus prevent infection with a nematode.
CHAMOMILE_PYRETHRUM
And one more plant from my arsenal. It is rightly called a natural insecticide. She saves cabbage from aphids and caterpillars of cabbage scoops and whites. And if in the spring you plant pyrethrum along the perimeter of the near-stem circles of apple trees, then the trees will be reliably protected from aphids, apple codling moth and other harmful insects. Where this chamomile grows, there are no aphids and nematodes on phlox and other flowers. Do not like feverfew and mouse-like rodents.
PETUNIA protects legumes from many pests and diseases, and asters - from Fusarium.
LAVENDER not only very beautiful. V mixed landings she saves neighbors from ants, aphids and real moths.
TANSY, planted around the perimeter of the beds or flower beds, protects against ants.
Roses are not only a beautiful flowering plant, but also quite troublesome to grow. The rose bush is constantly under attack various pests. To protect the rose from them, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying, starting from the moment the buds swell.
There are holes on the leaves of a rose, what should I do?
The holes in the leaves of the rose bush are the work of several pests ( Maybug, caterpillars of various butterflies, leafworms and cocoonworms). Consider measures to combat them:
- Chafer. This insect eats holes on rose leaves from May to June irregular shape. However, the adult beetle is much less of a problem than its larvae living in the soil. They make the rose bush weak with their vital activity, and young plants may even die. Control measures: adult beetles are collected, destroyed. The rose bush needs to be treated with bifenthrin.
- Butterfly caterpillars. It can be larvae of different butterflies. First, holes appear on the leaves small sizes, but for short term only veins may remain from the leaf. Control measures: manual collection, treatment with any insecticides.
- Leaflet. The caterpillars of this insect feed on the buds and pulp of rose leaves. Small holes remain on them, and the leaves themselves are deformed. If there are many such damaged leaves, the bush weakens due to a lack of nutrients. In rose flowers, the caterpillar eats away the stamens, pistils, and petals. At the end of May, a silver web appears on the leaves - a sign that the caterpillar will soon become a butterfly. Such leaves must be removed along with the cocoon. Control measures: for prevention in the spring, you need to spray rose bushes with a solution of nitrofen (before bud break). In 10 liters of water, 0.3 kg of the substance is diluted. In May, preventive spraying is continued using bifenthrin (it is in Talstar, Semaphore). If a leaflet has already appeared on the rose bush, you need to act differently. With a small number of caterpillars, they must be collected manually and destroyed. It is much more difficult to deal with a large accumulation of this insect. In this case, insecticides Aktar, Decis are used. It is also necessary to carry out activities to catch leafworm butterflies before they lay eggs, from which caterpillars will appear next year. Can be done by yourself effective traps: houses are glued from paper, inside which sheets with a sticky substance containing pheromones are laid out. Such traps attract leafworm butterflies. Traps are hung not only near rose bushes, but also in the garden. Such a tool will get rid of a large number of insects.
- Cocoonworms. These butterflies have caterpillars in gray, orange and white color. Caterpillars gnaw irregularly shaped holes in the leaves of a rose bush and, with a large accumulation, completely bare the branches. It is easy to recognize cocoonworms by their “tents” made of cobwebs. Control measures: you need to manually destroy insect nests, process with Talstar or Semaphore. Treatment with Actellik, Decis or Phosbecid gives a good effect.
Care for roses properly and eliminate their pests in time!
We will tell you about pests of roses and how to deal with them.
spider mite
This insect is found in almost every garden and affects any plants: fruit trees, grapes, flowers, berries, vegetables; roses are no exception. Thus, of all insect pests, the spider mite is the most common. It causes the plant to weaken. Because of what, it begins to lose leaves and as a result becomes more vulnerable to diseases.
Sparrows and other birds, for which these insects are food, help to fight many pests in the garden.
The spider mite is a very small insect, so it is very difficult to detect it on a plant. The length of individuals reaches only 2 mm, the largest of them are females. On the leaves, they look like moving black dots. The spider mite has an oval body and 8 legs, which are dotted with numerous bristles. The insect lays eggs that look like a transparent blob that turns creamy when it's time to hatch.
The spider mite lives in a colony, the number of which can be more than 100 individuals. Most often, the pest can be found on the underside of the leaves of the plant, where a thick cobweb is formed, under which small insects run.
To get rid of the spider mite for a long time, it is necessary to fight it at all stages of its development. life cycle. The spider mite feeds on green leaves of plants, so it will live in the garden and breed almost all summer. For this reason, it is very difficult to get rid of it.
When cold weather sets in, the spider mite moves into the fallen leaves and hibernates in it, which is why it is so important to carry out the autumn cleaning of the leaves in the garden, and then burn it. So you can get rid of hidden pests, as well as destroy the spores of many fungal diseases. If the foliage is not removed, then in the spring, with the onset of heat, the spider mite will crawl out of its winter home and again settle on green leaves, causing harm to plants.
When the number of spider mites is small, you don't have to worry. However, this insect multiplies rapidly, which leads to detrimental consequences. The spider mite makes its home on the leaves of roses and feeds on their juice. When the plant is in the stage of active growth, it needs to strengthen the roots, but if it loses the nutrient juices from the leaves, it quickly weakens, so it has to make up for their loss to the detriment of the roots. Dots appear on the leaves affected by the spider mite, which turn yellow and fall off.
The spider mite affects not only the leaves, but also the stems, as well as the buds of roses. If the summer is dry and the plant lacks moisture, then the damage from pests becomes even greater. Young seedlings are especially affected by exhaustion. It is very important to control the number of poutine mites, otherwise entire rose bushes can die.
Prevention. When the time of active growth begins in newly planted seedlings and bushes, regular watering is recommended, as this increases the protection of the plant from spider mite damage. It is also required to treat the bushes with soapy water - this will protect the leaves not only from spider mites, but also from other insect pests. The use of broad-spectrum preparations, on the contrary, should be avoided, because in this way it is possible to destroy insects that are natural enemies spider mites, as a result of which the invasion of this pest can only intensify. To control the number of spider mites, it is better to abandon the frequent use of drugs that kill the enemies of this insect.
Control measures. Although the spider mite is very small, the harm from it is very great. Due to the size of the pest, it is difficult to notice it on the bush until the web appears and the leaves begin to turn yellow. It is recommended here only to frequently check the underside of the leaves for spider webs. True, it is important to make sure that this is a spider mite, and not its enemy - a spider that catches this pest. In addition to spiders, some bugs and fly larvae help in the fight against spider mites, which do no harm to roses and provide an opportunity to use chemicals less often.
As a rule, the number of spider mites begins to increase after the use of insecticides against other insect pests. In addition, some preparations containing pyrethrins and phosphates increase the level of nitrogen on the leaves, which only benefits spider mites.
If its number is small, then you can get rid of it by washing the leaves with water or acaricides. Chemical preparations against spider mites are recommended only in cases where there is an outbreak of its numbers.
Soap or insecticidal solutions help well, which are recommended to practice in cool weather. When processing, it is necessary to ensure that the drug gets on all the leaves, and especially on their underside. You can also use fitoverm. Re-treatment against spider mites is recommended after 2 weeks.
rose leaf
This is a small nondescript butterfly that has a brown color, a wingspan of about 2 cm and a lifespan of about 2 weeks.
In early autumn, the leafworm lays yellowish eggs on the smooth side of the tree bark, where they survive the winter. In clutch there can be up to 200 eggs with a diameter of about 5 mm. By the end of spring, greenish-brown caterpillars appear from them, reaching a length of 25 mm, it is they who mainly harm roses. Caterpillars eat the pulp of leaves on almost all shrubs and trees in the garden.
Since the beginning of May, the leafworm caterpillar can be found on the leaves of plants. Its life expectancy is 1-1.5 months, so by mid-summer the number of this pest is reduced.
The leaf roller got its name due to the fact that in the process of weaving the web on the underside of the sheet, it folds it into a tube.
Leafworm caterpillars feed on the pulp of leaves and rose buds, after which holes remain on the leaves and they are deformed. Holes in the leaves create obstacles that do not allow nutrients to flow in the right amount, so the leaves are not just spoiled in appearance - their deformation leads to a weakening of the plant.
When the rose enters the time of flowering, the caterpillar eats the pistils, stamens and petals, the buds are wrapped in cobwebs. On the underside of the leaf, the caterpillar weaves a web, while the leaf folds into a tube. In July, this tube contains a pupated caterpillar, and in August a butterfly is born from it. It takes 2-2.5 weeks for a caterpillar to turn into a butterfly.
Prevention. Dealing with a leaf roller is quite simple. For prevention, you can use a solution of nitrofen in early spring, which will protect the buds of roses from damage. It is necessary to dilute 200-300 g of this product in 10 liters of water and spray the leaves of the plant.
Control measures. The fight against this pest is recommended to be carried out at all periods of its life cycle. First you need to monitor the appearance of holes on the leaves of the rose, and then make sure that they are left by the leafworm caterpillar. Next, you should set the number of caterpillars. If it is small, you just need to collect and destroy individual individuals, but if there are a lot of caterpillars, you need to spray the plants with insecticides. For example, use Aktara for this purpose.
In addition to collecting and destroying caterpillars, it is also important to catch leafworm butterflies so that they do not have time to lay eggs, from which new insects will appear next year. Why use special traps, for example, glue a triangular house out of a sheet of paper, inside which is placed a sticky substance containing pheromones. It is enough to make several of these traps and hang them in the bushes to get rid of a large number of butterflies.
thrips
These small and nimble black insects, which reach an adult size of only 2-3 mm, are very difficult to detect. They mainly live in rosebuds, so you can see them on flower petals. 
In hot and dry weather, roses suffer more from thrips, which penetrate the tissues of the plant and feed on their juice. If the edges of the petals have darkened or discolored spots have appeared on the leaves and petals, then the rose is most likely affected by thrips. Also, this insect harms the buds of roses, which develop poorly, and because of it the flowers become not so lush and beautiful. Thrips weaken the plant, making it more susceptible to infection by fungal diseases.
The life cycle of thrips consists of several periods, in some of which these pests are actually not susceptible to the effects of chemicals, and therefore it is very difficult to destroy.
It is almost impossible to fight against thrips with chemicals in the very first phase of their life - the egg stage. Spraying roses with preparations, it is possible to destroy only adult insects that at that time fed on the plant, but they had already managed to lay eggs under the skin of the leaves.
Before becoming an adult, the thrips larva hides in the soil at the roots of the plant. During this period, she stops eating, and the earth hides her, so neither systemic nor contact insecticides will work. In addition, thrips quickly get used to chemicals, as a result, it is even more difficult to deal with them. To get the effect of fighting these pests, it is recommended to alternate drugs with different active substances, as well as increase the degree of concentration of insecticides.
Prevention. To effectively cope with thrips, you need to track their appearance and alternate methods of struggle. Pests develop especially quickly in hot and dry weather - only 2 weeks pass, during which adults develop from eggs. V cold weather this cycle takes about a month. Therefore, it is useful to increase the humidity of the air, water the roses and spray their leaves with cold water.
❧ One of the most ancient diseases of roses is powdery mildew, the first mention of which occurs in 300 BC. e.
Control measures. You can spray roses with chemicals, but re-treatment should be carried out after a while so that the plant gets stronger and does not die. During this period, a new generation of thrips has time to appear, which also lay eggs. To prevent this, it is recommended to use a solution of laundry soap between chemical sprays. They are washed or sprayed with leaves, and after a while it is washed off clean water to let the roses breathe again.
From thrips, bushes are sprayed with systemic insecticides, to which flea shampoo is sometimes added.
During processing, it is necessary to destroy the affected parts of the plant, since, as a rule, insect eggs are laid in them, and also remove flower stalks so that the thrips have nothing to eat.
From the larvae and eggs of thrips deposited in the soil, loosening the earth at the roots helps, which allows you to raise pests from the depths. Then the soil must be sprayed with insecticides.
Scales on roses
The shield is of this type. insect pests that affect both garden and home roses. It is very difficult to get rid of it, since the adult is covered with a strong shell that protects it from the effects of chemicals. Shchitovka starts up on roses that have been improperly or insufficiently cared for, on diseased and weak plants, with excessive or insufficient watering.
The insect feeds on the sap of the plant and secretes nectar, which remains on the leaves and stems of roses; it is in these tracks that you can notice the presence of the pest in the first place. Nectar is a sticky coating that must be removed as it causes soot fungus.
Another sign of damage to the plant by the scale insect is the presence of scales on the shoots and leaves of roses. In fact, this adult scutellum at this stage of development, the insect is attached to the plant and covered with a kind of shield, from under which it is very difficult to get it, and chemical preparations are ineffective. The adult scale insect leads a motionless lifestyle.
Prevention. In late winter - early spring Care must be taken that the rose bushes are well ventilated and the air circulates freely between the stems. For this, it is important to spring pruning. Also, as a preventive measure, it is necessary to regularly inspect the plants, especially from below, in order to detect signs of damage in time. In addition, rose bushes need to be sprayed often with water, but do it in the morning so that it has time to evaporate during the day.
Control measures. It is easier to get rid of this pest on early stages its appearance, so it is important to inspect the stems and leaves of roses to identify signs of damage to the scale insect. If sticky plaque or hard scales are found, pest control must be started immediately.
There are no special chemicals against scale insects, so you can get rid of it by cleaning it from the plant. Why use cloths, sticks or brushes soaked in soapy water. And it is better to use all the same a cloth or a soft sponge that does not damage the plants. Such a measure will not only help get rid of the scale insects, but also make the roses unattractive to other harmful insects.
If the number of scale insects is large, you can spray the bushes with a soapy solution by adding engine oil or kerosene, calculating 5-6 drops per 1 liter of water. In this case, the insect will have nothing to breathe.
It is not recommended to use insecticides, as they can destroy beneficial insects. However, if the number of scale insects is such that they are able to lead to the death of plants, they can be treated with broad-spectrum or systemic preparations, for example, Aktara.
Under the shell, the scale insect lays eggs that remain to winter on the plant, so during the autumn harvest it is necessary to carry out preventive control with this pest, washing it away.
Protecting roses from diseases and numerous pests is a constant concern for every grower. It is better to prevent the occurrence of diseases than to treat them later. To do this, first of all, when buying seedlings, you need to choose resistant varieties.
It is necessary to carry out the correct and timely pruning. Roses with frost-damaged wood and many thin shoots grow weak and are quickly affected by fungal infections. After pruning, it is necessary to remove from the soil all fallen leaves and shoots on which pathogens remain. Also, all foliage must be removed before sheltering roses for the winter. Otherwise, pest eggs and fungal spores remaining on them will perfectly endure the winter, and with the onset of spring they will hit the plant. It is important to properly water the rose bushes, avoiding water on the shoots and foliage.
In a word, roses weaken under adverse conditions: lack of light, moisture, mineral nutrition, or with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. As a result, the resistance of plants to infections and pests is reduced.
The main measures in the treatment of roses:
When affected by fungus and bacterial diseases, all infected parts of the plant are removed.
- in case of massive mold damage, use sulfur or Funginex
- if a bacterial gall disease is affected, it is necessary to remove the entire plant from the garden, otherwise it will lead to the death of crops growing nearby
DISEASES OF ROSES:
- 1. Powdery mildew
A fungal disease that manifests itself in the fact that a mealy coating of white, ashen or grayish color forms on the surface of leaves, stems, buds and thorns. As a result, plant tissues are destroyed, physiological processes are disturbed, leaves curl, young shoots die prematurely.
This fungus usually infects plants in summer or early autumn. The appearance of powdery mildew is facilitated by a thickened planting, excessive air humidity, and a lack of nutrients.
- Downy mildew, downy mildew
The main symptom is the appearance of yellow-brown or colorless spots on the upper side of the leaves, and grayish mold below. The appearance of the disease is promoted by low night air temperature at high daytime.
Control measures
To combat powdery mildew, a 1% suspension of colloidal sulfur is used, which also stimulates the growth and development of roses well, especially on alkaline soils. Top dressing with potash fertilizers increases the resistance of roses to powdery mildew. With a strong development of the disease, you can spray the plants with soda ash (50 g per 10 liters of water). But the introduction of nitrogen enhances the development of the disease.
It is good to use a copper-soap solution during the growing season (except for the flowering period of roses). To do this, dilute 300 g of green or laundry soap in 9 liters of water. In parallel, prepare a solution of 30 g of copper sulfate and 1 liter of water. In the resulting solution of copper sulphate, while stirring, add a solution of soap. Roses are sprayed with this solution every ten days.
In the fall, it is imperative to remove all affected shoots and leaves, to dig the soil with the turnover of the layer, as a result of which pathogens die from lack of air in the soil. And after trimming, treat with a solution of 3% iron sulphate with 0.3% potassium sulfate or 3% copper sulphate. Roses are treated with the same solution in the spring before bud break.
Good for powdery mildew wood ash, which in autumn and spring is sprinkled with soil around the bushes (100-120 g per 1 m2) or embedded in the surface layer. You can also spray rose bushes with sulfur. To do this, prepare an infusion of ash (200 g per 10 liters of water) and mullein (1 kg per 10 liters of water), which is infused for five days. Spraying is carried out until the disease disappears.
Various herbal solutions are also used:
A decoction of horsetail: 1 kg of fresh or 150 g of dry horsetail is diluted in 10 liters of water and left to infuse overnight. Then bring to a boil and cook for half an hour. The resulting broth is cooled, filtered and diluted with water 1:5.
- a decoction of garlic: 75 g of finely chopped garlic is mixed with 10 liters of water and brought to a boil over a fire. The cooled solution is sprayed on the plants.
- 2. Rust.
Rust is easy to recognize, but not easy to cure. This disease appears on plants affected by aphids or mealybugs. The spores of rust-causing fungi settle on the honeydew that these insects secrete. Rust pathogens are carried by wind or insects.
Rust appears in the spring in the form rusty spots on the branches. In summer, small bright orange sporulation pads form on the underside of the leaves, turning black by autumn. When a plant is damaged, the functions of the vegetative organs are disrupted: transpiration increases, photosynthesis decreases, breathing becomes difficult, and metabolism is disturbed. The appearance of plants becomes oppressed: the leaves dry out, the stems, shoots and flowers are deformed.
Excessive moisture around plants, poor air circulation, and a lack of nutrients, especially potassium, contribute to rust damage.
Control measures:
Dusting the bush with ground sulfur, or a mixture consisting of ground sulfur with slaked lime in a ratio of 5: 1;
In case of severe damage, treatment with copper-containing preparations of the lower surface of the leaves 1 time in 2.5-3 weeks;
Spraying the plant with a decoction of horsetail;
Spraying and watering the plant with a tincture of wormwood from 400-500 g of fresh leaves or 40-50 g of dried, filled with 10 liters cold water and infused for a spirit of weeks until the start of fermentation. The resulting solution must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 before use;
The use of soap solution - 300 g of soap per 10 liters of hot water.
Spray with cold solution.
I. V. Michurin used milkweed juice or an aqueous extract of its juice to protect roses from rust. The scientist acted as follows: he broke off part of the stalk of milkweed and rubbed the place of the plant affected by rust with the end with a protruding drop of milky juice. The operation was repeated two or three times a day. If the disease manifested itself immediately on large area bush, then the following solution is prepared: 1.5 kg of crushed milkweed stalks are soaked in 10 liters of warm water and the mixture is infused in a warm place for one day. The disease usually goes away after the second spraying.
- 3. Black Spot
A fungal disease similar to rust. It appears in the second half of summer as black-brown or black spots on the upper side of the leaves. As a result, the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. The spores of this fungus are carried by the wind. Yellow roses are most susceptible to black spot, which have inherited this predisposition genetically. But the old single-blooming European roses are rarely affected by this misfortune.
In the spring, you should regularly inspect the plants to notice the first symptoms of the disease. Affected leaves must be removed from the site.
For prevention, a soap solution is used, as well as decoctions of horsetail and nettle. You can use the drug Sistan - special remedy for the care of roses. If the rose is heavily exposed to the fungus, then a systemic fungicide is used. In the initial stages of the disease, an alternative to chemical fungicides is Cornell's preparation (GreenCure), based on potassium bicarbonate.
- 3. Marsonina
A fungal disease that manifests itself in the form of black-brown spots on the leaves, petioles and stipules of roses. The leaves darken, dry up and fall off. Mycelium and spores overwinter on shoots and leaves.
Control measures
Collection and burning of diseased leaves and shoots, digging the soil with a layer turnover, autumn or early spring spraying of roses and soil before bud break with one of the permitted preparations.
- 4. Chlorosis
It manifests itself with a lack of nutrients: iron, manganese, zinc, magnesium, boron and others. At the beginning of the disease, the youngest ones are affected - the apical leaves, acquiring a white or white color with a creamy tint. Subsequently, its tissues die off, the leaf falls off.
Control measures
Compliance with regular fertilizing with complex fertilizers in prescribed doses.
- 5. Botrytis (gray rot)
The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that manifests itself during prolonged wet weather in dense plantings. A gray mold appears on the buds of roses, due to which the buds do not bloom. Hybrid tea and multi-petal varieties are most susceptible to the disease.
Control measures
It is necessary to remove infected shoots in a timely manner, to prevent thickened plantings and excessive moisture during irrigation.
In case of severe damage, fungicides are used.
- 6. Cancer
One of most dangerous diseases roses. The first symptoms are the appearance of yellow and brown spots on the shoots, which darken and deepen over time, and the shoot dies. On the leaves, the cancer appears as brown spots with a purple tint, which can be confused with downy mildew.
The causative agent of cancer, the fungus lives in the soil and, with mechanical damage to the shoots, can penetrate inside.
Control measures
Mandatory removal of infected shoots from the site. The use of fungicides.
-7. root cancer
It manifests itself in the form of a growth at the base of the bush on the root collar or at the site of grafting of an occluded rose.
Control measures
If the disease is not very advanced, you can cut off the growth with a knife and treat the cut site with any disinfectant.
-eight. Mosaic
Mosaic - the result of infection of roses with a virus. Appears in a variety of patterns yellow color on leaves under heat stress.
ROSE PESTS:
The main pests of roses include aphids, spider mites, scale insects, cicadas, leafworms, sawflies, bronze. To combat the above insects, the following drugs are used: fitoverm, insecticide, aktar, intavir, karbofos. Spraying is carried out with water-soap solutions, iron or copper sulfate, paraffin or mineral oil. From biological agents use an infusion of nettle or garlic. N. I. Kichunov in the fight against insect pests of roses used tobacco decoction, aloe extract, kerosene. To prepare a tobacco infusion, 400 g of shag is boiled for 30 minutes in 9 liters of water. The broth is insisted in a warm place for two days, filtered and 40 g of green soap diluted in 1 liter of water are added.
The following infusions are suitable for pest control:
200 g of dry or 600 g of fresh hot pepper is poured into 2 liters of water and boiled for 1 hour. Then the broth is insisted for two days, filtered and adjusted with water to a volume of 2 liters. A liter of the resulting broth is poured into 10 liters of water, 40 g of diluted soap is added there.
1 kg of dry yarrow leaf, together with 1.5 kg of dry wormwood leaf, is diluted in 10 liters of warm water and infused for two days, filtered. Before spraying, add 40 g of diluted soap to the infusion.
200 g of crushed horse sorrel roots are diluted in 10 liters of warm water, infused for 2 hours in a warm place. Before spraying add 40 g of green soap.
500 g of dried dope in 10 liters of water for 12 hours. 40 g of soap are added before spraying.
1. Rose aphid
It is located on the underside of the leaves, on young shoots, buds and peduncles. Adult individuals lay wintering eggs at the end of summer, from which new colonies of aphids hatch early in spring. The aphid sucks the juice from the young shoots, which subsequently bend, the leaves curl and fall off, and the buds do not open. Roses that are weakened by aphids do not tolerate the winter period well.
Control measures
In the fight against aphids, spraying 2 g of kerosene per 10 liters of water helps well, as well as spraying with Aktofit or Aktara, confidor preparations.
From biological agents used:
An infusion of 300 g of chopped onion or garlic and 400 g of tomato leaves. The greens are rammed into a three-liter bottle and filled with water. Insist for 6 hours. Then the infusion is filtered and adjusted with water to a volume of 10 liters. For better adhesion, 40 g of green soap is added to the infusion. Processing is carried out every seven days in five repetitions. The solution can also be used against mites, suckers, sawflies, caterpillars.
10 g mustard powder pour 1 liter of water, leave for two days and bring to 5 liters of water.
Infusion of red pepper: dilute 1 pack in 1 liter of water
2. Spider mite
A very dangerous pest of roses. It damages the leaves, sucking the juice from the underside and causing a violation of all physiological functions. As a result, the leaves turn yellow, covered with small light spots and fall off. You can see the tick with a regular magnifying glass.
Control measures
As a rule, fungicides are used against ticks. The Fitoverm biopreparation has proven itself well for these purposes. During the growing season, the leaves are sprayed from the underside with actofit, actellik or other acaricides.
Biological treatments:
Yu. M. Kara against spider mites uses:
2% solutions of a concentrated solution of tobacco, fern leaves, calendula seeds, onion scales; 3% - onion bulbs; 8% - leaves of yarrow and marigolds; 15% - wormwood; 20% - potato tops and tradescantia leaves; 25% infusion of bitter nightshade. According to him, on the third day after treatment, the death of the pest is 71% of the infusion of onion bulbs, 76.8 - of onion scales, 81.8 - of wormwood, 83.6 - of calendula, 84.6 - of potato tops, 87 .5 - from tradescantia, 88.5 - from ferns, 96 - from yarrow, 96.1 - from marigolds, 98 - from nightshade, 100% - from tobacco infusion.
3. Rose Cicada
When affected by a cicada, the leaves on roses are covered with small white dots. With severe damage, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
Cicadas can be seen under a magnifying glass in the form of white or pale yellow insects, which are very mobile and, at the slightest touch on a leaf, quickly jump, flying to another place.
Control measures
The same as against aphids.
4. Leaf rollers
Leaf rollers are caterpillars that damage the leaves and young shoots of roses.
Control measures
With a small resettlement of caterpillars, they are harvested by hand, and with a strong one, chemical preparations are used.
5. Rose sawflies
Adult individuals of sawflies resemble a bee in structure, but are black in color, up to 6 mm long. Caterpillars-larvae of sawflies bite into a young shoot, where their further development takes place. The damaged shoot darkens and dries up. In autumn, caterpillars descend into the soil for wintering.
Control measures
Digging up the top layer of soil in autumn in order to kill caterpillars in winter
- pruning of populated shoots before the larvae emerge from them
- spraying with chemical preparations: actara, confidor, actellik, calypso.
6. Bronze and deer
The golden-green bronze beetles fly from May to August and lay their eggs in humus-rich soil or in manure, which winter there and fly out the following summer.
Deer - black beetles with white spots.
Both beetles eat rose petals, eat away stamens and pistils. Flowers of light colors suffer more from them.
Control measures
Collection of beetles early in the morning, when they sit motionless on the flowers.
Any lover of these capricious plants has at least once encountered the problem of curling leaves on rose bushes. There can be many reasons for such a phenomenon, and all of them have long been established thanks to experience and observation. experienced gardeners. We invite you to learn from their knowledge and quickly respond to the first signs of twisting leaves on roses.
Lack of moisture and high temperature
Summer is a difficult time for all garden plantings. Despite the fact that roses are considered to be body and light-loving plants, they also suffer from excessively burning sunlight, especially if their influence is supported by a lack of moisture. Regular and proper watering, loosening and mulching trunk zone help rose bushes to survive the heat more easily, maintain elasticity, freshness and bright color of the foliage. If you rarely visit your garden, consider a drip or alternative watering system for the rose garden.
Pests
viral disease
As a rule, leaf curl is the last symptom of an infection in rose bushes. viral disease. Before this, the green part of the plants loses its elasticity and becomes pale, the petals on the buds shrink and fall off at the slightest touch. Horticultural practice shows that it is better to immediately dig up such specimens with the root, preventing the spread of the disease to other plantings.
Lack of potash fertilizers
Roses, price which allows not to save on top dressing, are extremely sensitive to the lack of important trace elements for them. For example, potassium deficiency weakens the root system of rose bushes, prevents them from accumulating moisture and valuable nutrients. Again, too much potash fertilizers fraught with deformation of plant tissues and, as a result, irreversible twisting of its foliage. As an option, you can quickly transplant the bush to a new place, saving at least new shoots and young leaves.
Like vegetable crops, flowers need protection from pests - especially dangerous for flowering plants springtails, podura, spider mites, miner beetles, thrips, aphids and various types of nematodes (root, leaf and stem). The fight against pests of flowers, as with pests of seedlings, must be carried out methodically and purposefully - using the most effective means.
How to get rid of pests on springtail and podur flowers
Springtails and Podura- small wingless insect pests of flowers, which are ubiquitous, but most often harm in protected ground.
Many of them are found in manure, soil, and decaying organic matter.
Springtails and podura can damage germinating seeds. On the cotyledon leaves, they gnaw out small dimples, sores, resembling damage cruciferous fleas. For healthy plants whose leaves do not touch the ground, insects are not dangerous. However, if the root neck or roots are damaged by pests and affected by diseases, then springtails can feed on decaying tissues, contributing to the death of plants.
How to deal with these pests of flowers in the garden? In order to reduce the number of springtails and podurs, it is necessary not to overmoisten the soil, and also to add a solution of the Actellik preparation under the plants.
How to spray flowers from tick pests
Spider mites are dangerous pests of flowers in the garden and other plants, including most. They feed on the cell sap of plants, cause a deep metabolic disorder. Ultimately, this leads to a general inhibition of plant development, flower crops are lost, and their life span is reduced.
Ticks in an active state live, as a rule, on the underside of the leaves, braiding with cobwebs.
Leaves damaged by a tick become discolored, and with a strong lesion, they acquire a marble hue, turn brown and dry. In case of severe damage, plants may die.
Adult mites are greenish-yellow in color, very small (0.3-0.5 mm long), larvae are three times smaller. During the season, the tick gives several generations. Its mass reproduction is observed in dry and hot weather. Optimum temperature air for the development of mites +25 C and relative humidity 60-70%. Adult females overwinter under plant debris and in top layer soil.
To combat these insects, it is necessary to collect and destroy plant debris and weeds in time. How to treat flowers from pests spider mites? effective means are "Fufanon" or "Iskra-M". Inhibits the reproduction of ticks and Actellik. From biological preparations you can use pesticides such as Kleschebit, Agraberpin, Fitoberm or Aparin.
How to treat flowers from miner pests
miner beetles- small dipterous insects, the harmful stage of which is the larvae. They make long winding white passages on the upper side of the leaf.
Look at the photo - these flower pests gnaw out the leaf tissue, leaving the upper skin intact:
The larvae pupate on the underside of the leaf under the epidermis. Leaves damaged by these flower pests die prematurely.
How to spray flowers from miner pests that destroy plantings? With a significant development of miners, it is necessary to spray the plants with one of the insecticides ("Spark Double Effect", "Inta-Vir", "Bison", "Confidor", "Commander", "Fufanon" or other similar drug).
Means for the treatment of flowers from pests of thrips and aphids
thrips- These are small insects about 1.5 mm long, the body is dark brown, elongated.
Larvae are wingless, yellow, even smaller - 1 mm. Thrips lay their eggs in leaf tissue. The larvae emerging from the eggs stay in groups on the underside of the leaves, adult insects and larvae suck the juices out of them. The upper side of the leaf, damaged by many injections, acquires a silvery sheen. With a large accumulation of pests, the surface of the leaves is covered with excrement in the form of a black coating. As a result of settling with thrips, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off.
How to get rid of these pests on flowers in the garden? Effective way thrips control is spraying plants with any insecticide when pests appear. If repeated spraying is necessary, the preparations should be alternated.
Aphid is the most common pest. Insects 2-3 mm long. Masses accumulate on the leaves and green shoots of plants.
These pests reproduce very quickly. They deform leaves, shoots, flowers, oppress and weaken plants, reduce their decorative effect. By sucking large amounts of sap from plants, aphids excrete excrement in the form of a sticky liquid that pollutes the leaves. Various kinds aphids are colonized by escholzia, zinnia, calendula, etc.
When aphids appear, to treat flowers from these pests, it is necessary to spray with one of the insecticides, as well as against miner beetles.
Pests of roots, leaves and stems of nematode flowers
root nematode, also called the gall nematode, is a serious pest of flower roots, which is a small colorless worm with a filamentous body up to 1.5 mm long.
leaf nematode- microscopic worms, colorless, up to 1 mm long, move quickly. In places of damage, the leaf tissue becomes discolored and yellowish spots that are translucent to the light are formed. Over time, diseased leaves turn brown, dry out or rot.
stem nematode- these are small thread-like worms up to 1.7 mm long, - a serious pest of flower crops. Damaged plants are characterized by an ugly development of leaf stems and flowers.
It has been repeatedly proven that the presence of microscopic nematode worms in the soil reduces the decorative effect and yield of almost all crops. It is because of them that such strict observance of crop rotation is required in many respects, the non-return of the same crops to the old place within 3-10 years.
Flowers against pests tagetes "Grunt-control"
One of the effective biological methods for the destruction of many pests, including nematodes in the soil, is the use of the "Grunt-control" tagetes.
This is the most spectacular variety of tagetes for biological control with a root nematode, which kills more than 95% of the nematodes during a three-month flowering period, while soil sterilization reduces soil infestation by only 80%.
Nematodes are most common on sandy loamy soils, where Tagetes grows especially well. Used as green manure fertilizer, flowers against pests tagetes "Grunt-control" increase the content of organic matter in the soil and improve its structure.
Sow in May directly into the ground. For good seedlings, keep the soil moist for the first 4-5 days after sowing. Keep weeds out as this increases nematode levels. Growing period for maximum effect: at least 100 days.
Plant height 80 cm. Planting pattern 20 x 30 cm. Blooms from June to October.