September 2, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Once I told you about how to thaw water that has frozen in pipes in winter. I was asked to do this by my neighbor in the country, who was going to celebrate his anniversary there.

And recently, he, mindful of the advice that I gave him then, asked me to insulate water pipes in the ground on the street and inside the cottage. Probably does not want to face similar troubles next winter. It is right, because insulated pipes are a guarantee of the presence of water in the dwelling at any time of the year and at any time of the day.

Naturally, he had to pay me a considerable fee, although the price was quite consistent with the complexity of the work performed. And you have the ability to do everything do it yourself and “absolutely free of charge”, as the wise owl in the famous cartoon said. Will help in this compiled by me instruction, which I present below.

The need to insulate the water transport system (Article 1)

I think even those readers who do not know about my winter adventures (we are talking about the case when I defrosted the pipes to a neighbor) understand the need to insulate the pipes through which water flows from a well or well into the house.

Insulation may not be performed in only one case: when engineering communications are sufficiently deep into the ground, that is, they are below the level of soil freezing. Insulation in the ground may be needed only if the pipes are buried shallow.

So I recommend, if you haven't already done so, to protect your pipes from the cold. Moreover, the length of engineering communications on any private land plot not so great, and they are buried very shallow.

In addition to underground water pipes, you need to take care of engineering communications laid in unheated premises at home (especially basements and attics). There, too, water can freeze, which will lead to the inoperability of the system as a whole.

Well, I hope I convinced you of the need for insulation work, it's time to decide what material to use for this. We'll talk about this in the next section.

Materials used

When I was little, my grandfather and I insulated a piece of pipeline (3 meters) that went from the well to the pantry. At that time, old military pea coats, soldier's blankets and other similar things were perfect for this (I think you guessed what my grandfather worked for).

However, there are currently many modern building materials, which will cope with the tasks assigned to them much better, and their purchase will not make a bottomless hole in your family budget.

On the other hand, some find it difficult not knowing what to choose. Before giving specific advice, I want to list the requirements that the insulation must meet so that you can use it for finishing pipes:

• have good heat-preserving properties that do not change under the influence external conditions(humidity, temperature, mechanical impact, deformation, damage, and so on);
• have a long service life, resistance to impact chemical substances and biocorrosion;
• have hydrophobic functions, do not change their specifications and operational properties when wet;
• it is good to endure exposure to high temperatures without changing the coefficient of thermal conductivity and service life.

I will talk about the most common options, and you already choose on your own:

1. Glass fiber insulation(glass wool). Most suitable for finishing metal-plastic pipelines. I worked with such heaters as Izover, URSA, Knauf Insulation other. They differ slightly from each other in individual parameters, but they do not affect the efficiency of work.

Given that glass wool has low density, when wrapping pipes with it, which you are then going to bury in the ground, you need to figure out how to protect it from mechanical stress. In my practice, I used roofing material, geotextiles or sewer pipes big .

In general, not the most convenient option which requires a lot of time and effort.

1. Basalt heat insulator. The material is produced in the form of ready-made shells for a certain diameter of water or sewer pipes. Thanks to this, they are very easy to install on engineering communications.

Suitable for pipe insulation private house, and underground, because it perfectly tolerates strong mechanical stress and high load. In some cases, in addition to the layer of basalt fiber, manufacturers protect their products from above with foil insulation or glassine, which further increases the performance properties of the material.

However, as you understand, we have to pay for all these pluses. The cost of the considered insulation can not be called affordable.

1. Styrofoam. This is the material I worked with the most. It differs from other products in affordable cost and a considerable range. There are varieties with and without an external protective layer, for installation on pipes of large and small diameters, and so on.

I insulated pipes with polystyrene foam in a ditch and in unheated rooms country houses. In both cases, the result was quite in line with expectations. None of the customers remembered any more freezing.

This material is designed for multiple use. If for some reason you need to disassemble the water supply, you can dismantle the polystyrene shells without violating their integrity, and then reinstall them. The main thing is that the diameter of the parts matches.

1. Thermal insulating paint. It is a thick mass white color(although it can be tinted), which in its appearance and operational properties very similar to normal coloring compositions. Except that even a thin layer of it significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of pipes.

Such material is produced on the basis of varnish or water, as well as acrylic and special filler. The latter is a microscopic hollow ceramic sphere containing air inside. It is thanks to them that the beauty keeps the pipes from freezing.

I used paint and quite happy with the result. Of course, it is better to do this with a special sprayer, although you can also use a brush. The more layers you apply, the more reliably protect the water supply from freezing water in severe frost.

Paint has other advantages:

• perfectly tolerates strong temperature fluctuations, therefore it is also suitable for heating pipes;
• has anti-corrosion properties, as a result of which it can be used to process metal water pipes;
• has a long service life and can act as decorative material if you add coloring pigments to it.

Of course, I would advise you to use only paint, but its cost is quite high, so for domestic use, buy yourself styrofoam shells. Although, there are other ways to prevent pipes from freezing, which I will discuss later.

Insulation of underground water pipes

Naturally, one of the most simple ways water pipe insulation is the use of heat-insulating materials. But that doesn't mean he's the only one. And, by the way, not always the most effective.

In my many years of practice, I had to resort to other methods. Perhaps some of you will find that they are easier to implement. Especially if the pipes are too deep to dig the ditch again, but not deep enough to keep out the winter.

I have compiled a small table to make it easier for you to navigate.

Way insulation	Description
Heating cable	In this case, it is necessary not only to insulate, but to heat the pipe through which water flows. For this, special heating cables are used, which can be purchased at specialized stores. The power of such products ranges between 10 and 20 watts per meter. It can be laid inside and outside pipes. Using a heating cable, you can bury water pipes in the ground no deeper than 50 cm from the surface. When it comes to power consumption, you don't have to worry too much. Heating is turned on only in the coldest months, and, fortunately, we do not have many of them. Unless, of course, you live in the Far North, but then it is better to choose another way to heat the water supply.
Air insulation	Here you can use the heat-insulating materials listed in the previous section. However, they do not wrap the pipe, but equip a kind of thermal barrier on top, which prevents the penetration of cold air to engineering communications. And the pipes themselves are heated by warm air from below. Often we also used such a technique as "pipe in pipe". That is, a part of a smaller diameter, through which water must flow, is placed in a product of a larger diameter in order to create a heat-insulating air gap.
Pressure insulation	In this case, a special receiver is needed, with the help of which the pressure in the main engineering systems increases (that is, the part that goes underground and in unheated rooms). The technology has proven itself in cases where the water supply is organized using a submersible water pump, which is able to provide the required water pressure (more than 5 atmospheres). Naturally, part of the system should be check valves, protecting parts of the system from damage until the pressure is released.

I made a brief review, now I will tell you about everything in more detail, so that you can independently insulate the pipes and not be afraid of the formation of ice in the plumbing system.

Method 1 - Use of thermal insulation materials

In my practice, most often glass wool or materials based on it were used to insulate water pipes. And although I do not consider this option the most effective and convenient, I will first talk about it.

The scheme of work is as follows:

1. We dig out pipes buried in the ground. Care must be taken not to damage the engineering system with a shovel. It is necessary to release not only the pipeline itself, but also take out a small amount of earth from below so that it can be convenient to work.

1. Then we wrap the pipes with glass wool heat insulator. Try to make sure that there are no gaps through which the plastic or metal of the pipe is visible. Otherwise, a cold bridge will form in this place, which will certainly cause the pipe to freeze.
2. The thermal insulation material can be secured with adhesive tape or plastic ties or other suitable method.
3. After that, we protect the heat insulator with a more durable material. The most commonly used ruberoid. It is the most accessible and has hydrophobic properties, that is, it does not allow the insulation to get wet.

In principle, everything is simple. But personally, I would not advise resorting to this method of finishing. I base my position on the following considerations:

1. By doing this insulation, you are doing the same job twice. First install the glass wool, then the protective layer. It turns out too long in time and quite tedious.
2. After backfilling the soil (especially with layer-by-layer tamping, which avoids soil movement), the insulation, due to its low density, shrinks. This negatively affects its heat-preserving properties, that is, the pipes will be insulated worse than you think.
3. Glass wool does not tolerate the effects of moisture, which will constantly seep through the soil to the insulation. Moistened glass wool does not hold heat so well and protects the engineering system from the cold. And it will be even worse if the insulator, wet after the autumn rains, also freezes.

I said all this to the fact that I advise you to choose ready-made thermal insulation cylinders made of expanded polystyrene or mineral fiber. You don't need to be a plumber to install them. Connect the two halves of the cylinder on the pipe and snap into place.

Just make sure there are no seams. Cylinder parts must be connected to each other with a slight offset (10 to 20 cm). If you are afraid that some kind of lost mole will damage your pipeline, then you can additionally strengthen the parts with adhesive tape.

To insulate fittings, valves, revision holes and other bulges on pipes, use specially made polystyrene foam shells.

As a result, your pipes will be insulated in the most reliable way. This is especially true for strength and water absorption. Backfilling the soil in no way affects the insulation, and the parts themselves absorb only 2% of the liquid from the volume of the material per day. That is, the insulation, one might say, does not get wet at all.

And best of all, a similar material can also be used when finishing pipelines passing inside a building in unheated rooms.

Method 2 - Installing the heating cable

Let's say for some reason you do not want to use thermal insulation. Then I can advise you to install a heating cable. I must say right away that he himself is not cheap and requires additional costs during operation (payment for electricity).

But in this way it is possible to lay a pipeline with a small depth. And if it does freeze, you can plug the cable into the network and wait for the ice to thaw.

I can name two ways of laying a heating cable:

1. Inside the pipe. You can understand the essence from the name. At self-manufacturing you will have to sweat a lot. In order not to create unnecessary problems for yourself, I advise you to buy water pipes with a heating cable already installed inside or with an empty cable channel, which will facilitate the installation of an engineering system.

1. Outside pipes. In this case, you can buy ordinary water pipes and cable, and then assemble everything into a finished system.

Most often, I had to resort to the second method, so I will dwell on it in more detail.

The advantage of this method is that it is not necessary to dig a ditch 2 meters deep. It is only necessary to go deep by 50 cm so that the pipes themselves are not destroyed by vehicles passing on the ground, and the cable will be responsible for the insulation.

In addition, you also need to buy a foil adhesive tape, a heater with hydrophobic properties (for example, basalt shells). After that, you can get down to business. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. The pipe through which water flows from the water intake point (well or well) to the house must be pasted over with foil adhesive tape in a spiral. It is not necessary to place the turns too tightly, there should be a distance of about 10 cm between them.
2. Then wrap the pipe with a heating cable clearly along the resulting line. Make sure that you do not get any intersections, otherwise later a heating element can close.
3. Then you need to seal the pipe with the same adhesive tape. This will ensure that the heating cable is fixed exactly where you placed it.
4. After that, you should cut the basalt cylinders and install them on the pipe. Be sure to overlap the joints so that cold bridges do not appear. They are often the cause of overspending. electrical energy when heating pipes.
5. We take another adhesive tape, plumbing, and wrap the entire pipe over the insulation, firmly fixing thermal insulation material. In addition, plumbing tape helps prevent water from leaking to the pipe if you left a gap in the insulation somewhere.

Pay special attention to the area where the pipeline enters the residential building. I advise you to make a good tin box in that place, which, after installing the pipe there, must be filled with a heat insulator and carefully protected with a film from water.

One more moment. I recommend installing temperature sensors along with the cable in several places of the pipeline, which are connected to the heating cable control system. In this case, when the temperature of the engineering system drops below the permissible level heating system will turn on by itself or notify you of the need to perform any action.

As I said, the minus of such a solution is the consumption of electricity for heating pipes. But if you know another way, which I will discuss below, you can heat pipes with free thermal energy. Don't know how? Listen.

Method 3 - Arrangement of the air gap

By insulating the pipeline, we kind of protect it from the cold from all possible sides - from above and below. However, as you know, the deeper the ditch, the more heat can be obtained directly from the ground. This heat can not be wasted, but used to heat the water supply.

In this case, it is not necessary to insulate the entire pipe, but only upper part, creating a kind of thermal umbrella.

Another way is laying the working water pipe inside a thicker pipeline. Then a kind of air gap is created between the parts, which protects the engineering system from freezing.

This method of laying, by the way, has several other advantages:

1. In case of occurrence emergency it is possible to stretch a flexible temporary hose or a water pipe along an impromptu main manifold without any problems. To do this, during installation, I recommend throwing an emergency cable or wire there.
2. If a pipe fails, it can be replaced without performing earthworks. That is, even in winter period.
3. Possibility of arrangement additional systems heating. For example, if the heating cable, which is paired with a heater, is out of order, you can melt the ice or heat the water supply with warm air supplied to the collector pipe.

There is another air heating circuit that I mounted several times. To do this, you need a house in which there is a basement or cellar, where all year round positive temperature is maintained. Then the thick pipe, in which the water supply is laid, is led out to the basement at one end, and at the other we equip the hood with a deflector.

The result is a kind of ventilation. Warm air leaves the basement, passes through a thick pipe, heating the water supply, and then is removed through the deflector. It turns out free heating of the engineering system, and Fresh air in the basement.

Method 4 - Using high pressure

Now let's turn to high technology. This is not about nanorobots that will insulate your pipe, but about the usual powerful deep pump pumping water into the domestic plumbing. The essence of this method is that the water under pressure in the pipe will not freeze. Which, in fact, we will use.

The downside here is that you have to turn the system on and off every time when you arrive at the dacha and leave for the city.

I will describe the scheme of such a solution:

1. A receiver must be inserted into the water pipe, which will help create excess pressure in the area connecting the well to the house. The water itself will be pumped submersible, the power of which is quite enough for this.
2. You will also need a check valve.

The procedure is as follows:

• in order to avoid freezing, you need to close the tap in front of the receiver and pump water into the pipe, reaching a pressure value of 5 atmospheres;
• upon arrival at the dacha again need to be released from the pipe excess water bringing the plumbing to working condition.

Insulation of plumbing inside the building

With works on outdoors we slowly figured it out. Now let's move on to the issue of warming the water supply inside the house. Here everything is much simpler and easier. You can use the following materials:

1. Styrofoam. Buy heat-insulating cylinders of a suitable diameter and put them on pipes. It is better to take those varieties that are protected from mechanical stress from above. If there are none, wrap a layer of roofing material or something similar on top.
2. Glass wool. This material is mainly used for metal pipes. There is no particular difference between the installation of insulation in the house and on the street, so I will not describe everything in detail.
3. Basalt cylinders. Another great way to insulate plumbing in unheated rooms. Despite the strength, I still advise you to additionally protect the cylinders with glassine or foil insulation.

All the methods that I once used, I told you. I think this is enough to insulate pipes in your country house or country house. And to make the work carried out as efficiently as possible, I will give a few tips:

1. When burying pipes in the ground, do not be too lazy to draw up an accurate diagram of the engineering system. Particular attention should be paid to the location of the connecting elements. It is at these points that pipes often fail when the water inside freezes.
2. It is necessary to insulate both internal and external communications at the same time. As a last resort, if you need to insulate a short section of the system (50-70 centimeters), cut a piece of pipe from the sewer, put it on the water supply and fill construction foam. Suitable as a temporary option.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to tell you that in no case should you neglect such an important stage in the construction of a water pipe as protecting it from freezing. Otherwise, you will have to thaw the ice later, as described in the video in this article. Do you need it?

September 2, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Insulating water pipes in the basement means creating a comfortable microclimate and reducing the cost of the heating system. Such works are important both for private houses and for multi-apartment buildings. Certain requirements apply to the pipeline insulation process. This applies to any systems: plumbing, heating and sewer.

V last years polypropylene structures in the basements of houses have become popular. Do they need to be warmed up? If during the construction process it was not insulated strip foundation, then sure. If a private building is used only in summer and not heated in winter, pipe insulation will prevent the system from freezing and failing.

Requirements for insulation materials

To insulate pipes in the basement of a private house, various materials are used. Regardless of their type and composition, they must meet important indicators:

• be durable;
• moisture resistant;
• fireproof;
• easy to install;
• resistant to temperature changes.

How to insulate the pipeline in the basement

The better to insulate water pipes in the basement, because the choice of materials is great. The first step is to choose a heater that meets the above requirements.

Mineral wool and glass wool

These insulators are best used for metal-plastic structures. Fiberglass has low thermal conductivity and high temperature resistance. But does not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you will have to spend extra money on insulation from moisture. Such insulation is used only for buildings that are heated all year round.

Mineral wool is dangerous for human skin and mucous membranes. It is recommended to work with it with gloves and a respirator. The material must be wound on the pipeline and secured with a strong rope. Wrap around the entire length of the pipe and fasten at its end. It is recommended to apply foil or roofing felt over the mineral wool.

PPU and expanded polystyrene

Such insulators are resistant to moisture and mechanical stress. They can be used several times if repair and disassembly of the structure is required. To insulate heating pipes in the basement with polystyrene foam, you need to wind it around the pipe and fasten it with tape around the entire circumference. Such a heater has the properties of a thermos. Very resistant to environmental influences and perfectly retains heat around the pipe.

Foamed polyethylene

The insulator is easy to install. Attaches quickly to pipes. Using clamps or foil tape. Perfectly protects heating constructions in private houses. Can be used many times.

Basement plumbing process

To insulate a water pipe in the basement yourself, it is not required professional tools and skills. After selecting a suitable insulator, you need to arm yourself with clamps, tape or nylon wire.

• measure outside diameter and pipeline length. Cut the material according to the parameters. Sometimes it is necessary to wrap sewer pipes several times. This should be taken into account when "cutting" the insulator.
• Wrap the heating structure and immediately fix the insulation. Wrap the tape or rope tightly. It is easier to work if the materials are cut lengthwise into small pieces.

During severe frosts, there are problems with freezing of water in the water pipes located in the basements. apartment buildings. Rupture can occur with both plastic and metal.

Today we will try to reveal as much as possible the principles associated with the insulation of pipes in an apartment building.

What to consider when performing thermal insulation

Before proceeding with the insulation of a structure located in the basement of an apartment building, you should learn the basic requirements in order to get the expected result and avoid numerous problems.

• Maximum service life.
• The ability to self-extinguish.
• The presence of water repellency.
• Ease of installation.
• Low cost.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Low thermal conductivity.

Thermal insulation in an apartment building

What materials are preferred?

To date, the variety of materials with which you can easily and quickly insulate the plumbing in the basement is impressive.

Among the most effective and most popular are the following:

1. Mineral wool

Elements made on the basis of mineral wool will cope with temperature changes. With its help, it is possible to insulate not only pipes in the basement of an apartment building, but also those that are outside or in the ground. What the mineral wool looks like can be seen in the photo below.

2. Polyurethane foam

Ideal for insulating basement plumbing and attics. In fact, it is the outer shell of the water pipe. This design minimizes heat loss and adds strength. This heat insulator is not afraid of chemical influences, does not rot. But it has one drawback - high cost.

3. Styrofoam

This material is characterized high level rigidity. Expanded polystyrene insulation is sold in the form of a pipe part, which has protrusions for fastening.

4. Polyethylene foam

This thermal insulator is best suited for internal insulation heating systems.

5. Styrofoam

Styrofoam is good for insulating heating and water supply systems on the basement and basement floors. It has a low level of moisture absorption. Also, the foam is very durable, can be used for more than two decades.

6. Foam rubber

The thermal insulator has a number of advantages. It is elastic, resistant to temperatures and is not afraid of fire. Due to the fact that it is resistant to fire, it is suitable for the insulation of outdoor pipelines.

7. Liquid heat insulator

High quality material that can compete on equal terms with the rest. For example, one coat of paint can replace a 5 cm layer of polyurethane. In addition to insulating properties, liquid thermal insulation is able to protect the metal from the effects of corrosion and betrays a good appearance pipes. But it is not used for thermal insulation of plastic pipes.

Regardless of the material you choose, the main thing is that the thermal insulation is effective, and on cold days there are no problems with tearing or other damage. More detailed instructions on the installation of a particular heat insulator, you can look at the video on the Internet. It is worth noting that working with heaters is not difficult, you can easily do it yourself.

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Do-it-yourself insulation of heating pipes: ways to self-fulfillment

Foamed polyethylene and mineral wool - excellent insulation of the heating main in the attic

Hello. Today I want to talk about how to insulate heating pipes inside and outside construction sites with your own hands. The topic is of considerable interest, since proper thermal insulation can reduce the level of heat loss during the transportation of the coolant from the thermogenerator to the heater. I hope you find the instructions in this article interesting and helpful.

A few words about current methods of insulation

Insulated pipes for heating are used if the route runs outside the construction site or through outbuildings, attics, basements and other non-residential premises. It is not necessary to insulate pipes in a residential area, since the pipeline releases heat into the environment and acts as a heating radiator.

At the moment, there are many varieties of heat-insulating materials and methods for their application. Pipelines, depending on their configuration and location, are insulated with expanded polystyrene, foamed polyethylene, foamed rubber, mineral wool, foil insulation, etc.

Current methods of pipeline insulation are distinguished by such characteristics as the thermal conductivity of the finished result, the temperature range at which long-term operation of insulation is possible and, of course, the price.

Unfortunately, not all methods of pipeline insulation are available for do-it-yourself work. Therefore, in my review I will talk about those technologies that I myself encountered and the result of which I was satisfied with.

So what are we going to cover in this article?

• The use of liquid insulating compounds;
• The use of polyurethane foam;
• Application mineral wool;
• Use of an insulating shell.

The use of coating liquid insulation on a heating main

The easiest to implement insulation of heating pipes in the basement, in the attic and in outbuildings is carried out using liquid coatings, such as "ARMOR CLASSIC" (ultra-thin thermal insulation).

The agent is intended for application to polymeric and metal surfaces at a temperature environment not less than +7°С. Storage of material is allowed only at positive temperature. The operation of the material is allowed in temperature regime from +200°С to –60°С.

According to the manufacturer's statements, the operational life of the insulation is at least 15 years.

Instructions for the insulation of pipelines are shown in the following diagram.

Consider the main stages of working with liquid insulation in more detail:

• We prepare the surface, namely, we clean the crumbling rust, dust and dirt from the material, and then wipe it with a rag soaked in a thinner;
• While the surface dries, prepare the material - open the jar and mix the contents;

Liquid insulation is used with the consistency of thick sour cream, so it is not recommended to dilute the products with water to thin them.

• We apply liquid thermal insulation with a conventional fly brush over the entire surface in 2-3 layers with a break for drying each previous layer.

Explanations for installation work:

• Despite the fact that the product is not toxic, we use protective gloves and goggles when working with it;
• We work with good lighting so that when covering the working surface there are no unpainted areas left;
• We do not paint fittings and movable sections of valves, since liquid thermal insulation, when dried, forms a dense crust, which subsequently will not be easy to remove.

How to thermally insulate the track using foam

In one of the previous articles, I talked about how polyurethane foam is sprayed. PPU is a versatile material that can be applied to various surfaces including heating pipes.

To complete the planned work, you will need:

• installation for spraying polyurethane foam;
• foam components;
• roofing material and soft aluminum wire;
• plywood for cutting stiffeners.

Instructions for insulation work are shown in the diagram.

Let's consider the listed steps in more detail using the example of polyethylene pipe insulation:

• we cut out rings with a slot from plywood or fiberboard in order to put them on the pipe on the basis that the diameter of the ring should be twice the diameter of the pipe;

• rings are set at a distance of about 60 cm from each other;

When installing the rings, the cut is directed upwards. To make it easier for the rings to fall into place, we unbend the edges of the slots, and then shift them.

• in the slots on the rings we install the PPU supply hose so that its end reaches the last ring;
• we fix the hose in place with electrical tape or a plastic clamp so that it can later be pulled out;

• then we wind the roofing material so that the strip edges lie on two adjacent rings and the edges go out by about 10 cm;

• winding from roofing material we link with soft wire;
• along the entire length of the pipe in the shell, every meter we punch holes with a diameter of 5 mm;
• after the shell is assembled, we press the open end with a piece of plywood or fiberboard and start up the foam;

• when the foam appears from the end of the pipe, covered with a piece, we pull out the hose by 0.5 meters;

• when foam appears from the first hole made in the shell from the end, we extend the hose for another half a meter, etc.;

• as a result, after the hose is fully extended, the pipe will be surrounded by a strong and reliable insulation.

We leave the roofing material without removing it even after the foam is completely dry. First, the roofing material will protect the foamed insulation from mechanical stress.
Secondly, the presence of an outer shell will prevent the effect of UV radiation on the foam, which will extend the life of the insulation.

If the above instructions seem complicated to you, you can do it easier and apply a uniform layer to the surface of the track. polyurethane foam from a balloon.

Unfortunately, the price of foam from a cylinder in terms of the treated area is high. In addition, using a balloon is not easy to evenly process all parts of the pipe and even more difficult to apply a uniform layer without bald spots and without bumps.

Other thermal insulation methods

For thermal insulation of heating mains located in the open air, mineral wool has long been used. Thermal insulation was built as follows:

• strips of mineral wool were wound over the pipeline and fastened with wire;
• a chain-link mesh was installed over the insulating winding;
• a layer of cement-sand plaster was applied over the netting mesh, which was designed to protect the insulation from atmospheric precipitation.

You can implement this method yourself, especially since there is nothing complicated about it. If the pipeline is of small diameter and passes through the basement or attic, instead of a full-fledged reinforcement, a layer of dense polyethylene film can be wound over the mineral wool.

Finally, a few words about the shells, which are made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.

It is believed that the shell of polyurethane foam is intended for heating pipelines, while expanded polystyrene, that is, foam with a dense structure, is designed to isolate water pipes and. In fact, heating pipes can be insulated with both shells, since the foam melts at a temperature of + 160 ° C, while most heating mains do not heat up more than + 80 ° C.

The use of the shell is reliable and simple. Two or three halves (depending on modification and diameter) are put together. Finished construction is pulled together with clamps or the locks are foamed with mounting foam.

Conclusion

So, now you know how to insulate heating pipes on the street. Moreover, you can choose one of the listed methods and deal with its implementation yourself.

There is personal experience in pipe insulation? Tell us about it in your comments, I think everyone will be interested to know about it. By the way, I recommend watching the video in this article.

July 29, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Insulation of water supply pipes in a private house is an important step in creating a comfortable microclimate and reducing the cost of space heating in private and apartment buildings. Consider in the article the requirements for insulation for polypropylene pipes, whether it is necessary to insulate heating and plumbing.

In private houses, communications have two vulnerable areas for freezing. These sites are located on the street when laying communications from the well to the house or in an unheated basement. If you have not done basement insulation, then it is necessary to protect the pipes in the basement of a private house from heat loss. Consider how and how to insulate communications on your own, tell you what materials to use.

Do I need to insulate polypropylene pipes in a private house? If you did not spend during construction, then it is simply necessary to protect communications from heat loss. If Vacation home rarely operated in winter, communications can freeze, regardless of what material is used for the water pipe - metal-plastic, HDPE or galvanized steel.

How to insulate pipes in a private house with your own hands

When a cold water pipe enters a warm room, condensation will always form on it. If the pipe is insulated, then you will protect the room from possible appearance dampness. Heating houses also need thermal insulation in order not to waste excess heat in this room, but to redirect it to the maximum in Living spaces reducing your heating costs.

Insulation requirements for pipe insulation

More recently, any available material was used for pipes - old jackets, wadded blankets etc. Today, the range of insulation is so wide that to make right choice not so easy. Therefore, you should consider the most popular materials, as well as technological requirements applied to these materials. Consider what should be considered when choosing insulation:

• Duration of operation of the insulating material;
• Insulation resistance to high humidity and moisture;
• Fire safety and fire resistance of insulation;
• Easy installation with the possibility of reuse;
• Resistance to mechanical and temperature influences;
• Low cost and availability of pipe insulation.

How to insulate water pipes in a private house

There are a number of important requirements for materials used in damp and unheated rooms. The technical and operational characteristics of the insulation must meet the requirements for resistance to chemical and thermal influences. Having dealt with necessary set characteristics, let's proceed to the choice of the most inexpensive and optimal pipe insulation.

Glass wool and mineral wool insulation

When working with mineral wool, use gloves and a respirator to protect against microparticles from getting on the skin and mucous membranes.

When using mineral wool or glass wool:

1. Take a roll of thermal insulation and cut off small pieces from it.
2. Wind the basalt insulation around the pipe and secure it with a nylon rope - tie the rope on one side and wrap it around the insulation in a spiral until the end of the pipe.
3. Fasten over the insulation roll waterproofing, for example, roofing material, isolon or foil penofol.

Styrofoam and PPU insulation

Styrofoam and polyurethane foam shells are often used to insulate pipes in the ground. Rack insulation high humidity, is resistant to mechanical stress. The shell can be used multiple times possible repair systems, and the characteristics meet all requirements. It is optimal to use PPU shells in country houses.

To use the polyurethane "shell", connect the two halves of the cylinder around the pipe and wrap them with tape. Lay the following parts "overlap" with each other. Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam cylinders can have a foil layer, which makes them similar in characteristics to a thermos and increases the resistance of the insulation to high humidity. See the video for a comparison of the characteristics of pipe insulation.

Polyethylene foam insulation

Insulation for pipes made of polyethylene foam: penofol or isolon is convenient for installation. The material is easy to secure with foil tape or clamps, it is easy to remove if necessary and can be reused. It is optimal to use polyethylene foam insulation to protect heating pipes in a private house in order to reduce heat loss in the basement.

How to insulate pipes in a private house

You should think in advance how to insulate water pipes in a private house, how to insulate columnar foundation and what insulation material to use for various materials. Requirements for the materials used should take into account the ease of installation of insulation, long service life, water-repellent characteristics, environmental and fire safety material.

You should not have any difficulties in your work, anyone can cope with this issue. No special skills or special tool pipe insulation is not required. Check out the video instruction at the end of the article on this topic, and you will understand