Many owners choose parquet boards as flooring. And this is quite understandable. This coating looks great in the interior. If the installation technology is followed parquet board, then the floor will last long years. An undoubted advantage of the coating is its ease of maintenance. Many people think that laying parquet boards on their own is difficult. Later in the article we will figure out whether this is so.
Tools
Of course, laying parquet boards is carried out using special devices. It must be said that every owner has most of the tools. Cutting panels is best done with a jigsaw. If you don’t have this tool, then you can easily use a hacksaw with fine teeth (for metal). The parquet board is knocked down using a hammer. Its weight should be about 1 kg. A specially prepared piece of plastic acts as a tamping block. He enters standard kit for laying laminate or parquet. A plastic block is not as rigid as a wooden one. Thanks to this, chipping at the edges of the panels can be avoided. During the installation process, you will also need plastic restrictive wedges. They are necessary to fix the gap between the coating and the walls. These wedges can be made independently from wood. Another device included in the parquet installation kit is a metal bracket. With its help, the last panel is fixed. If there is no metal bracket, it can be replaced with a clamp. You will also need a tape measure, a level and a square.
Laying parquet boards: basic methods
Depending on the dimensions of the panels, one or another version of the covering flooring is used. Among the most popular are the following:
- On the logs.
- Using nails. The panels are nailed to subfloor made of wood.
- Glue method.
- Floating method. In this case, the panels are connected using a special lock.
The latter option is considered the most popular today, since laying parquet boards in this case is convenient both in a small room and in a room large area. Flooring using the glue method is used less and less today. This is due to the greater labor intensity of the entire process. In this case, laying the panels requires perseverance from the master. Fixing with nails to a wooden subfloor is usually used for solid parquet. But it must be said that this type of panel is gradually disappearing from stores. When laying parquet on joists, it is necessary to arrange a distance between them of no more than 30-40 cm. This is not very economically profitable. That is why in 90% of cases today the floating flooring method is used. This option is considered ideal for those who intend to do the work themselves. In any case, regardless of the chosen method, before laying the parquet board, it is necessary to prepare the base. It must be clean, level and dry.
Preparatory stage
Before laying the parquet board, it is kept for two to three days in the room where the work will be carried out. It is necessary to lay a backing under the panels. It can be cork or synthetic. Thanks to the backing, the parquet board will be protected from excess moisture. The strips of material must be glued together with tape at the joints. The more closely the parts fit together and the more thoroughly they are closed, the more airtight the base. Laying parquet boards with your own hands can be done using both parallel and diagonal methods. The option you choose will not affect performance characteristics coverings. However, it should be remembered that diagonal laying significantly increases the consumption of parquet boards. It can range from 2 to 7%. As a rule, the diagonal method is used in those rooms where it is necessary to smooth out the effect of unsuccessful placement of furniture.
First row
Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay parquet boards. The first stage involves laying the 1st and 2nd rows. They should be located parallel to the light falling from the window. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, you should install wedges against the wall to provide clearance. The gap between the coating and the wall is at least 10 mm. This distance is necessary to protect the panels from mechanical damage when changing temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The first two panels are pressed tightly against the spacer wedges.
Optimal distance between seams
Many beginners do not know how to properly lay parquet boards. Experienced experts recommend that when laying the second row, the panel closest to the wall should be sawed off to a length of at least 80 cm. It is considered ideal that the transverse seam in the first row would be located opposite the middle of the board of the second. However, in any case, a minimum run-up must be maintained. The transverse seams of parallel rows should be located at a distance of at least half a meter from each other. Otherwise, the connections will be weak.
Second row
Many craftsmen find the floating method very convenient. If there are any errors during the installation process, everything can be corrected. The panel from the second row must be inserted into the groove of the first. To do this, the board is tilted at an angle of approximately 20 degrees. The panel snaps into place, but is not fixed. The second board is inserted in the same way. It also snaps and is tapped to the first one. After the panels are tightly joined, they are fixed in the groove of the first row. To completely eliminate the seam, the boards are beaten using timber. Using this method, the covering is laid over the entire floor.
The last row
Many, especially beginners, craftsmen may have some difficulties at the final stage of flooring. By following these recommendations, you can make your work much easier. First of all, you should measure the distance from the wall to the penultimate row. The width of the panel that will complete the flooring should be 1 cm less than the obtained value. This ensures the necessary compensation gap. In the groove of the penultimate row it is necessary to cut off the locking edge. After this, the finishing boards are inserted. For a tight insertion, a mounting paw or clamp is used.
Shutdown
The final stage is the installation of skirting boards. The wedges must first be removed from the expansion gap. The baseboards are attached exclusively to the wall surface. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that it is not pressed tightly against the parquet. The width of the plinth should be enough to hide the expansion gap.
Diagonal method
Laying parquet using this method is carried out in the same way as described above. The only difference is that the panels are not located straight, but at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the axis of the room. It is best to determine the direction of the flooring while standing with your back to the doors. This option is not suitable for rectangular narrow room, because it will look very colorful.
Finishing
Previously, traditionally, after laying parquet, it was sanded. This made it possible to achieve a perfectly flat surface. For modern parquet flooring this procedure is not required. But during operation, in some cases it becomes necessary to refresh the surface. To do this, scraping is carried out to a depth of no more than 0.5 mm and additional coating with several layers of varnish. A three-layer parquet board is tidied up using a belt sander. Powerful drum units are not suitable for this work. This is due to the fact that they create quite strong vibration, which, in turn, negatively affects internal structure coverings. Sanding begins with 40-grit sandpaper. The process is completed with 150-grit abrasive. The completion of the work can be checked by running your hand across the floor. If there are no roughnesses, then grinding is complete.
Parquet is the choice of those who want to show their good taste, status and wealth. He has big amount advantages: environmental friendliness, quality, durability and decent appearance. Also, the process of laying parquet boards will not be difficult if you follow all the recommendations and rules.
Types of material
Before you purchase flooring you need to find out what types of parquet exist today.
- Single strip board made from solid wood and does not differ much from solid wood. Its cost is much higher than other types of coatings. Single-strip boards are used mainly for rooms with a large area.
- Also suitable for such premises two-strip board, since it is wider. It consists of two planks. They can be solid or consist of separate parts - modules.
- For spacious rooms it is of great relevance three-strip board. It consists of several narrow strips, which are made from various types of wood.
- Four-strip boards They are also made from different breeds. They are the narrowest. Their cost is very low. This coating has many disadvantages. This coating is difficult to restore and sand, since it has a thin layer of wood, is highly susceptible to moisture and contains harmful substances.
- Solid parquet board Larch is one of the most sustainable materials. It is durable, beautiful and resistant to water. Coniferous wood is in great demand.
Features of the technology
In order to lay a parquet board yourself, it will be enough to follow the correct installation technology to avoid mistakes.
Before carefully prepare and adhere to a certain technology. First, pay attention to the surface of the floor. It should be smooth, strong, without damage or cracks. If they exist, these shortcomings must be eliminated.
Since parquet boards are not suitable for rooms with high humidity, it is not recommended to place it in a toilet or bathroom. Also, the temperature in the room should not be lower than 19 degrees.
You must first decide on the flooring. These can be various substrates and insulation materials. Another feature in laying this covering is that it must be laid away from the wall so that the shadow does not fall on the joints.
Installation methods
There are many methods for installing parquet boards yourself.
Parquet boards can be laid using the “floating floor” method. Using this technology, the dies are fastened to each other using a locking method along the joints, and are not attached to the base. This technology is suitable for laying laminated parquet. The glueless connection method is performed by cutting out specially designed fasteners - grooves and locks, which are easily and quickly connected to each other.
The main advantage of this method is that the strength is not impaired over time. The fastenings are resistant to any changes in temperature and humidity in the house and heavy loads such as heavy furniture. It’s hard to make a mistake when using the glueless method of joining boards, so if this is your first time laying a parquet board, you don’t have to worry too much about this.
After you varnish the coating, the joints will not stand out much, the boards will lie as a single sheet, even if you laid it opposite the light source.
This type of connection allows for the dismantling of parquet boards without taking into account the direction in which they were laid if they are damaged or deteriorated.
The glueless method is certainly the most technologically advanced. But laying with the adhesive method is important when the rigidity of the base is required, and also when the room large sizes, since the parquet boards are completely glued to the surface of the base.
The glue used is special, intended for gluing parquet boards.
It is not recommended to use glue on water based, since such a coating can be deformed. The lower grooves of the parquet board are glued and connected to each other. For more reliable gluing, the glue can be applied in two layers.
There are also longitudinal and diagonal laying methods. These types of installation differ in that they begin to be laid longitudinally from the wall opposite the entrance, and laid diagonally from one corner. The diagonal method looks decent, but you will have a lot of extra trimmings, the work will be more difficult and not economical.
Another way to lay parquet boards is on deck. This technology is relatively simple: one board is laid after another board.
Laying along the direction of light is the most comfortable method of all, since long seams do not cast shadows and the surface looks completely smooth and solid. But it is in demand only for those rooms where the windows face one side. If the light penetrates from all sides, then such an effect of integrity will not work.
Installation across the direction of light is suitable when you need to make a room visually more spacious. This method is suitable for a corridor or narrow hallway.
When laying directly, the boards are laid parallel to the wall. This method is the most economical, since it leaves very few extra cut boards.
When laying diagonally, the boards lie diagonally. A small number of boards are required for trimming. The method is perfect for wide rooms, where a special coating will attract attention. But you shouldn’t lay parquet boards diagonally if you plan to fill the room with furniture.
It is very easy and convenient to prick the floor one board at a time, as it takes less time to work. The boards are first fastened at short seams, and then the whole strip is laid on the base. It is worth noting that there should be a gap between the parquet board and the wall, since wood tends to expand and contract depending on the temperature in the room.
If the coating is designed for long period use, it is better to cover it with a second layer of varnish. The filled joint of the boards is protected from water ingress when wet cleaning. In this way you can extend the service life of the coating.
Oddly enough, but parquet boards can also be attached to the ceiling. You need to start from the corner that is opposite the door, not far from the windows. You can lay parquet boards on the ceiling parallel to the light that falls from the windows. An important condition when laying the covering, a small gap of a few millimeters is left between the wall and the parquet board.
Preparing the base
Before laying the parquet board, you need to make sure that the base is strong, level and dry. These qualities will be inherent in concrete screed and adjustable wood floors. For rooms that are not very tall Suitable for ceilings screed And under the wooden floors you can lay the necessary communications.
An uneven floor surface with large differences will creak strongly and can deform the parquet covering. This is why leveling the surface is so important. You can use a hydraulic level to monitor unevenness and height transitions. The screed can also be made using special self-leveling mixtures. But for such a base to dry completely, it will take two or three weeks. A floor made of moisture-resistant plywood also has its advantages. Leveling such a base is much easier.
If on concrete floor If the unevenness is pronounced, it would be wise to level it using self-leveling floors and self-leveling mixtures.
First, the surface is primed and poured, and then special devices are used to roll out this mixture. This floor is not afraid of moisture and will never leak, and you can also achieve a perfectly flat surface.
Concrete
If you decide to install flooring on concrete base, then you should check it for cracks, large differences, holes and depressions. Such a surface can be filled with a special mixture and allowed to harden, leaving it for several days. But if the concrete is in very poor condition, then you should completely get rid of the old concrete screed and pour new surface. And only when it is completely dry, it will be possible to lay the parquet board.
Wooden
In order to prepare a wooden floor for laying parquet boards, it is necessary to carefully check it. After all, there may be dips, cracks, and large differences between the floorboards. This floor should be well leveled. First you need to putty all the cracks and then sand them wooden base. If the floorboards squeak and wobble a lot, they can be attached to the joists with self-tapping screws. But if they have completely become unusable, then it is better to disassemble the floor and replace the unusable boards with new ones.
Which substrate is better?
There are many options for underlays for flooring. Before making a choice, you need to find out why it is needed and which is better, as well as what is its compatibility with different types parquet
It should be noted that for a parquet board or for a wooden floor installed on logs, they are suitable soft substrates. For example, cork or made of polyethylene foam. Such substrates are very relevant, because they are easy to install and have a low price. In addition, they have good thermal insulation, especially in combination with aluminum foil, and great resistance to moisture. But they can quickly sag and succumb to the influence of sunlight.
Expanded polystyrene backing It is also suitable for any floor, both wooden, linoleum and parquet. She is distinguished by her thermal insulation properties, environmentally friendly, does not deteriorate from water and time, keeps its shape and is not affected by insects and other pests.
The polystyrene foam backing is convenient to lay and has a fairly affordable price.
Another variety is coniferous substrate , which appeared on the construction market not so long ago. Its main advantage is environmental friendliness. Even though it is made from natural ingredients, it is water resistant. Its structure allows for increased sound insulation, while smoothing out imperfections in the surface on which the flooring will be laid. It also allows you to create a suitable microclimate under the floor. Its thickness varies from 2 to 5 mm, which is perfect for apartments and houses. The disadvantage of such substrates is the occurrence of various fungi and molds underneath them, as well as their high cost.
Cork backing well suited for parquet boards. It masks unevenness and cracks well and has high sound insulation. The parquet board will not creak or deform when walking.
This substrate is divided into several types:
- The technical substrate is not susceptible to moisture.
- Bitumen-cork is the most durable, since it contains a mixture of different rocks.
- The rubber-cork backing is capable of retaining heat and moisture.
But cork backing has its drawbacks. Under heavy furniture or where there is a lot of traffic, the underlayment may become flat. It is not advisable to use it in a room with a warm electric floor, since the thermal conductivity of the cork substrate is very low.
In rooms with high humidity, a substrate containing rubber is suitable. Its cost is quite high compared to non-ecological substrates.
Laying plywood under parquet boards is very relevant for those surfaces with a lot of unevenness. Plywood has good thermal insulation and keeps the floor temperature at the same level; it also has high sound insulation properties. But it does not have good resistance to moisture, so the room must be dry.
Also suitable for this type of coating is a substrate made of MDVP. It is made only from natural materials, so it is environmentally friendly, holds heat well and does not allow sound to pass through, is resistant to water and chemical solvents and has long term services. Unlike cork underlay, it can be used with heated floors.
Another type of substrate is duplex backing from polyethylene film and a layer of polystyrene foam granules between them. Fits perfectly under parquet boards. Thanks to its structure, duplex removes condensation that can accumulate under the floor covering, which contributes to its longer service life. Can be used together with heated floors.
The absence of negative qualities makes it the most popular in the construction market. Moreover, it has a lower price than substrates made from natural materials.
Adhesive backing also often used when laying parquet boards. It is also called elastilon. This material has a porous structure and an adhesive layer with a protective film on one side. This allows you to firmly fix the parquet boards. It has good thermal and sound insulation, durability, and can correct unevenness on the floor surface.
Step-by-step instruction
First, prepare the base and remove the old flooring. To level the surface, use special mixtures, if necessary. Concrete screed definitely needs to be primed. Irregularities in the rough wooden floor should be sanded well.
After graduation preparatory work it is necessary to put a backing that will protect the coating from squeaks, moisture and deformation.
Since the parquet board must undergo acclimatization, the sealed coating must be kept in the room for a couple of days. It is recommended to turn on the heated floor system for 14 days before starting repair work, then turn it off a few hours before installation. This procedure will help create a favorable climate in the room and avoid heat damage to the finish.
Since a tree is natural material, then deviations in its color and texture are likely. You can make a creative design out of boards by opening several packages in advance and “trying on” the boards. The length of the boards can also be short and start from 40 cm. Slats with a length of 1 m or more are suitable for the middle of the room.
You can stack them different ways, but the most popular is the herringbone layout, which creates the effect of different textures.
The next step is to measure the width and length of the room and plan installation work. To lay the parquet flooring as evenly as possible, first create a drawing of the future installation on the layout. The dimensions of the final row should not exceed more than 6 cm. In this case, a proportionate displacement of the first is necessary.
Laying using “floating” technology must be carried out according to certain rules. It is produced from the very long wall in the room. Expansion wedges are placed diagonally. It is recommended to do this after the assembly of several rows is completed: the finished flooring is moved with a bracket, and spacers are installed in the formed joints.
It is necessary to begin assembly by cutting off the protruding part of the lock with cutters at the first row of planks, then install the boards and begin assembly along the end edge. The edge tile can also be trimmed if necessary. Subsequent rows are made up of the remains of the previous ones. For a parquet board with a classic locking connection, the end fastenings are initially combined, then the tiles are joined along the length with the obligatory tapping with an impact block.
It is worth saying that it is much easier to work with locking connections. Their joining should occur, as necessary, transversely or longitudinally. For certain types of volumetric lock, additional adjustment plastic insert need not. It is enough to precisely fasten the plates together. The last row of boards must be carefully adjusted to size using scraps, then assembled using locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the outermost row. The parquet board should be secured with a special metal bracket.
If the edge of the plank rests on a pipe or other similar obstacle, then draw a line on it where you need to cut off a part and drill a hole with a certain margin of about 15 mm. The board is installed in place and the cut is treated with a special solution, then the cut part is attached using glue. Then, after assembly, you need to remove the wedges, connect the “warm floor” system and gradually increase the temperature, install decorative plinths and thresholds in the doors. Another important point is that the formation of gaps in openings between rooms is a mandatory requirement of manufacturers.
When installing parquet boards using the glue method, the work scheme does not coincide with other methods. Apply the adhesive solution to the pre-prepared base and spread evenly with a special device or spatula. The boards in the first row will need to have the edge removed. To make a floor covering using the correct technology, you need to pad it with a mounting block and load something heavy on it to better fix the boards. In the same way, installation or replacement of parquet boards to the base with nails is carried out. The joint of tiles or laminate must be treated with a special sealant.
Tools and materials
In order to lay the parquet board on the screed you will need special tools. Usually, when purchasing this coating, a set of tools is included. It is also necessary to have polyurethane glue or caulk, backing board, mounting wedges, hacksaw, electric jigsaw, metal staples, pencil, tape measure and primer. If the question arises about what to cut with, then a jigsaw or a miter circular saw is suitable for this.
From professional construction tools A hammer drill may be needed. In order to do the job efficiently, you will need tools designed for long-term use and heavy loads. Otherwise, a cheap device will quickly fail. For an electric jigsaw, purchase additional saw blades. And for a hammer drill you will have to buy additional drills so that nothing distracts you from your work.
These tools are suitable for laying parquet boards with skirting boards. But if installation difficulties arise, for example, when circling pipes, you will need additional tools, such as drill, mounting paw.
Installing parquet boards yourself is quite acceptable if you strictly follow the algorithm of actions according to the chosen type of installation, choose the right materials and fasteners, and take the time to prepare the surface. What methods of installing boards exist and what are the features of each of them? More on this below.
Armed with simple knowledge, almost anyone can lay a parquet board on their own.
The prototype of a modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when the Swedish company Gustav Chers found a way to replace expensive piece parquet with an almost identical analogue at a budget price.
The first board consisted of two layers. The presence of a number of shortcomings did not allow the authors of the product to modernize it in the near future. But just five years later, another Swedish manufacturer, Tarkett, launched the world's first three-layer parquet board on the market. Today the material is presented practically unchanged and is in great demand among consumers.
Each layer of parquet board is designed for specific purposes, which together makes this material durable and wear-resistant
The production of parquet boards with an oil or varnish coating opens up the opportunity for people with average incomes to afford floor finishing natural wood within budget. It is noteworthy that you can lay parquet boards with your own hands, quickly and without violating technology. During operation, such a floor can be easily repaired by replacing individual sections.
The material is presented in a wide range in the most different colors and shades, with a variety of textures and parameters.
Design features of the board: what does it consist of?
The new generation parquet board is a practical three-layer board made of natural wood species with a length from 2000 to 2600 mm, a thickness from 13 to 15 mm and a width from 139 to 210 mm. Parameters vary depending on the manufacturer. For the finishing layer, varnish or oil mixtures are used.
The design of the board is the bottom layer, which plays the role of a stabilizer, the middle and so-called working layer - upper layer. Each of them plays a role.
The bottom one is made of spruce veneer, usually 2 to 4 mm thick, designed to stabilize the boards and prevent them from deforming. The middle layer with a thickness of up to 8 mm is made of pine planks with a width of up to 30 mm, laid out along the width of the board.
The front top layer is lamellas made of practical expensive wood with a thickness of up to 5 mm, laid along the length of the board, fixed to the surface of the middle layer with glue. It is the top layer that is responsible for appearance boards, recreating the structure of wood with a certain pattern on the surface.
The working layer must be sanded and additionally treated with oil or varnish mixtures. Then, during use, the parquet board can be sanded again at least three times with the varnish or oil coating renewed.
Parquet boards are much easier and faster to lay than regular parquet due to its design features
The wood fibers of the layers bonded together are located perpendicular to each other. This fastening option helps prevent floor deformation under the influence of temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity.
It is not difficult to independently assemble parquet based on parquet boards, since the material is additionally equipped with a tongue-and-groove locking system. The top layer strips - lamellas, depending on the type of product, may have different variants location.
What styling options are used?
Before you begin preparing for installation, you need to decide what the installation technology will be, taking into account the type of base, the characteristics of the material (structure and parameters). There are three options for attaching dies:
- on glue;
- mechanically;
- "floating" method.
Each option has its own characteristics. The so-called “floating” method with a tongue-and-groove system is considered the most common. Laminate flooring is also installed using a similar scheme. It will be relevant only in cases where the thickness of the die does not exceed 14 mm.
The main advantage of this mounting option is that the board will not require additional processing after installation and can be used immediately after the varnish or oil mixture has dried on the floor surface. In addition, laying parquet boards in this way is not difficult and can be done even by people without experience.
Option for laying parquet boards with glue on a concrete base
The so-called adhesive method involves attaching the coating to glue and simultaneously gluing the boards together. This option is convenient to use when the thickness of the dies is more than 14 mm. Its disadvantage is the labor intensity of the work and the cost of high-quality glue.
The mechanical fastening option involves the use of self-tapping screws. The fasteners are driven into the groove at a certain angle. This installation option is appropriate when using boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more with a rough base made of wood or joists.
How to properly prepare the base?
You need to understand that step-by-step instruction Installation of parquet boards will differ depending on the type of subfloor. Preparation of the floor for installation of wooden covering includes:
- recovery;
- adjustment;
- cleaning
All types of work are an important stage in the installation of parquet boards, therefore they must be carried out with maximum responsibility.
You should not neglect even such simple operations as routine floor cleaning; this may affect the evenness and durability of the parquet flooring
How to prepare a wooden floor?
The technology for preparing a wooden floor depends on its condition. If the base is relatively new, with virtually no defects in the form of height differences, boards with mold or fungus, the restoration stage is skipped. The old floor will need to be repaired and damaged areas replaced as necessary.
But it won’t be possible to do without adjusting the base. Deflections of the boards will require strengthening, knots - grinding, cracks - sealing. An important point is to check the degree of surface curvature. To achieve a perfectly flat surface, you can treat the floor with sanding equipment or choose the option with putty. An obligatory stage is checking the joist structure, which involves dismantling the boards in one of the zones to analyze the condition of the subfloor.
Preparing a wood floor may take longer than laying hardwood floors, but it is essential to do so.
Concrete base - preparation features
If you plan to lay it yourself on a concrete base, then the preparation process will not be as complicated and time-consuming as in the case of a wooden floor.
First of all, a visual assessment of the surface is necessary. At this stage, cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of brittle crumbling concrete are identified. Even small defects must be repaired, for example, using self-leveling mixtures. Before treatment, the surfaces are primed, or, as an option, the old coating is dismantled and a new, smooth and strong one is poured in.
Quick adjustments to small areas of the floor can be done using improvised means.
What do you need to know about underlayment for wood floors?
Regardless of the type of installation and type of base, it is correct to lay the parquet board on the backing layer. The material between the finishing and subfloor performs the following functions:
- smoothes out minor unevenness;
- increases the level of heat and sound insulation properties;
- evenly distributes the load while using the floor;
- prevents contact of moisture with the finishing wood coating;
- extends the service life of the floor.
The most commonly used backing is made of foamed polyethylene; duplex is also popular. cork material, foil backing and polystyrene layer.
It is better to spend a little more time and money on installing a parquet floor underlay than to regret a possible unsuccessful result in the future
How to attach a board with glue: instructions
It should be noted that laying parquet boards is not easy. The method is one of the most labor-intensive, implying significant costs for materials for fastening. Most often, this installation option is chosen when it is necessary to install a floor in large rooms. However, in apartments and private houses, parquet boards can also be glued to the surface, not forgetting that adhesive mixtures quickly set in and correcting shortcomings during the work process will not be so easy.
High quality and correct styling glue means attaching the dies directly to the base. Apply glue to a screed made of concrete, plywood or a gypsum version of the subfloor. The base must be prepared - smooth and clean. Lay the board according to the following algorithm:
- The first row of dies is laid out in the order in which they will lie, after which glue is applied to the subfloor, taking into account the area occupied by the first row.
- The first plate is mounted with a gap from the wall (at least 6 mm).
- The second board is attached to the first using a special tamping hammer. You need to fix the floor elements together quickly, given that the glue dries quickly and does not leave time for making adjustments.
- The last board in the row is trimmed if necessary.
- Lay the remaining rows of boards.
- The last row is also trimmed if necessary.
As a rule, one- or two-component water-based adhesive is used for installation, which provides the required level of fixation of the material on the surface of the base.
Laying parquet boards on glue is the right solution for any room
How to lay parquet flooring using the floating method: steps
The simplest is do-it-yourself floating installation. The work will not take much time, is carried out dry and does not require additional elements fastenings You can begin installing the floor immediately after installing the substrate. And here again, there are two styling options:
- on glue;
- by using lock system.
In the first case, in addition to ready-made tongue-and-groove joints, glue is applied to the ends of the boards for additional fixation between them. Laying on the subfloor will look like this:
- the boards are placed with the ridge side towards the wall, moving from the left corner of the room;
- the second board is inserted into the lock until there is a characteristic click and pre-treatment end parts with glue;
- If necessary, the boards of the last row and at the threshold are trimmed.
To achieve the tightest connection and reliability of the “floating” floor, the boards are hammered together with a special hammer.
Laying using the “floating” method in certain cases also takes place, especially since it is simpler and faster than others
Installation of parquet boards on joists - how to do it correctly?
To correctly lay the board on the joists, you need to have minimal experience working with parquet materials, since this method is quite complicated compared to those described above. Mount the material on the logs according to the following algorithm:
- Check the moisture level of the logs and eliminate possible defects.
- The logs are covered with a plywood backing. This stage is skipped only if the parquet board has enough level thickness. The step between the lags is small.
- Parquet dies are fixed with glue or using a locking system on the backing layer.
The finished floor can be used almost immediately after installation.
If the house already has a foundation made of logs, there is no need to disassemble it, you can simply eliminate the defects, possibly strengthen it and begin laying the parquet floor
Parquet boards and “warm floors” system - is it possible?
Despite high level thermal and sound insulating properties, the base for the parquet board can be arranged according to the “warm floors” principle. Additional thermal insulation will not hurt, especially since the material is quite harmoniously combined with the design of the heated floor.
Only possible variant underfloor heating for installation of parquet flooring - water-based. Electrical systems heating is excluded, since increased temperature in the floor area will lead to cracking as the boards of the interlocking system are used.
Laying of the material begins with the system turned off and cooled down to room temperature. After installing a wooden floor, it is connected no earlier than a week later, gradually increasing the temperature. It is important that the temperature over the entire surface of the floor is the same - this will prevent deformation of the coating.
Option for water-based underfloor heating under parquet boards
The final part of installing a parquet floor will be the installation of baseboards and thresholds. The threshold is necessary to disguise the transition between rooms; in addition, it will allow, regardless of what installation methods were chosen, to improve the aesthetic appearance of the room, protect joints from dust and dirt, extend the service life of the floor, and create a holistic picture of the interior.
The threshold can be made of wood, laminate, metal, plastic and even cork.
To avoid damage to the parquet board, use only recommended equipment
In conclusion, a few useful tips. Considering that the material will have to be trimmed, it won’t hurt to know how to cut a parquet board so as not to damage its integrity. Perfect option- jigsaw. The tool will allow you to cut the board quickly and efficiently.
In order for the seams to finished floor made of wood are not so striking, they should be placed parallel to the light falling from the window. You can lay parquet boards not only on concrete or over plank floors, but also for non-standard base options - linoleum, carpet or tiles. In such cases, the underlay is not used, since the subfloor already has the necessary level of heat and sound insulation.
Parquet board is a fairly popular floor covering.
It has high strength and impressive appearance.
It can be massive or consist of several layers.
A multilayer board has three different layers that are glued together.
The bottom layer is a seamless veneer of coniferous wood, the middle layer consists of coniferous slats, the top layer is made of lamellas of wear-resistant wood species.
A parquet board can also be one array.
There is a wide range of this material and several ways to lay it.
Before installing this type of floor, it is necessary to prepare the base.
This work is an important point for high-quality installation of the board and takes place in several stages.
They must be performed in a clear sequence.
Surface preparation steps include:
- alignment;
- cleaning from dust, debris, dirt;
- moisture-proofing flooring;
- underlayment flooring.
The method of leveling the floor surface depends on its material.
If the floor is concrete, then leveling depends on the degree of unevenness.
Small cracks can be repaired with cement mortar.
Grout mixtures can also help correct minor unevenness.
If the concrete base of the floor is too worn out, there are holes, large cracks, and chips on it, then a new screed is simply necessary.
A wooden floor can be leveled by replacing individual elements.
They will give a completely smooth surface without flaws.
After leveling the surface, the entire area must be cleared of debris, dust and dirt.
The floor must be thoroughly washed and completely dried.
Polyethylene can serve as a waterproofing layer, the thickness of which should be at least 0.5 mm.
The film is laid with an overlap of 20 cm.
The edges of the plastic film must extend onto the walls.
As sound insulation and thermal insulation excellent material there will be a cork backing.
It has excellent thermal insulation properties and absorbs sounds.
The backing sheets must be laid correctly - close to each other.
Do-it-yourself methods for laying parquet boards
In this video we will show you how to easily, quickly and efficiently lay a parquet board with your own hands.
Enjoy watching!
The choice of installation method for parquet material directly depends on its type and parameters.
Before the installation process, it is necessary to ensure a suitable level of temperature and humidity in the room.
The permissible humidity level is 60%, temperature is 20 degrees.
There are several methods for installing parquet on the floor surface:
- installation on wooden beams;
- gluing to the base;
- nailing to a wooden floor;
- floating method.
Laying on joists
This method involves the preliminary installation of wooden beams.
The logs on which the boards will be laid are mounted with a distance of 30 cm from each other.
They are covered with plywood or a layer of chipboard.
Joists are a great way to level the base.
If placed solid board from parquet, then the presence of a plywood or chipboard backing is not necessary.
Glue method
This method of installing the coating takes place in several stages:
- Applying adhesive to the floor surface and to the back of the board.
- Inserting the tenon into the groove and pressing it to the floor.
- Tapping with a rubber hammer.
Nailing material to the floor begins with drilling pilot holes designed for nails.
The nails are then driven into the surface wooden base through a parquet board.
The nails are driven through the base of the ridge.
The cut board is attracted, and the last joints are tightened.
Floating or locking installation method
This type of installation can be carried out with gluing the end parts or without gluing.
It takes place in several stages:
- laying 1 row with or without gluing the ends;
- trimming the last board;
- laying the second row.
It is better to lay the boards using the locking method in a checkerboard pattern.
The products are closed using the tongue-and-groove method.
Each subsequent element is inserted into the groove of the previous one.
The insertion occurs at an angle of 40 degrees.
Then the material is lowered and the elements are connected to each other.
Carry out high-quality installation of parquet boards, carry out proper care You can easily follow it if you study the installation technology, strictly follow the sequence of work and follow the tips and recommendations for installation and subsequent care during operation.
- work must be done slowly, with extreme care;
- choose the right place for installing parquet;
- implement right choice material;
- decide on the installation method;
- choose the right direction;
- leave gaps near walls and pipes;
- use special means in the castle method;
- for secure fixation, do not use anything other than glue;
- properly care for the floor covering;
- choose the right baseboard;
- use homemade putty for repairs;
- apply varnish correctly.
The features of this flooring are described in the article on our website.
If you don’t know whether it’s possible to lay linoleum on linoleum, then read the entire necessary information about it. We recommend it to those who doubt it!
When laying the material, you should not rush, as unexpected gaps may form, which lead to the creaking of the boards.
It is better to choose a place for installing such a floor with little traffic in order to increase its service life.
The diagonal method of laying parquet board elements is suitable for apartments that have a large number of corners, non-standard layout, as well as the presence of niches.
The best installation direction is from door to window.
It is mandatory to leave gaps near walls and around water pipes.
This measure is necessary for the possible expansion of the parquet flooring in the event of exposure to temperature and humidity.
There are special paraffin and wax based impregnations that can be applied to the tongue and groove during installation.
This measure will extend the life of the floor and will also make it much easier to fix the locks.
By the way, glue is an excellent means for fixation, but it is better not to use various sealants and foams.
This flooring does not like excess moisture, so it is better to clean it with a strongly wrung out cloth or an ordinary vacuum cleaner.
To repair the material, you can use a self-prepared putty made from parquet dust from sanding and varnish.
Opt for well-known brands of this product that have proven themselves as manufacturers of quality products with excellent compliance with geometric proportions.
Laying parquet boards with your own hands is an easy task if you have it in stock necessary tool and certain knowledge in this area.
In contact with
Laying parquet boards is done on a flat, dry, clean surface. The floor should first be examined for unevenness and differences. Allowable difference: 1-3 mm per linear meter. If there are differences, you need to lay the parquet boards after.
Tools for laying parquet boards
- Scotch
- Jigsaw or wood saw
- Hammer with rubber striker (mallet)
- Roulette
- Pencil
- Square
- Set for laying parquet boards or laminate
Laying underlay under parquet boards
After the surface has been leveled, our task is to lay waterproofing and underlay under the parquet board. Waterproofing is a durable film that is spread throughout the entire room as a single sheet. The substrate serves as sound insulation, insulation, and also smooths out minor surface defects.
Exists big choice: polyethylene foam, foil, bitumen-cork, and cork.
Cork backing is the most suitable option for laying under parquet boards, because it is a durable, natural material that retains its qualities throughout the entire operational period. The substrate comes in 2 versions: rolls and slabs.
First, the waterproofing is spread. If there is an overlap of up to 10 cm on the walls, you should not cut it right away; it is better to do this when the parquet board has already been laid. After waterproofing, the underlay is laid. The joints should be taped with adhesive tape. The backing sheets should not be overlapped, as this may cause squeaks.
Info! Often there is an underlay that includes waterproofing, in which case you will save some time
How to lay parquet boards
Advice! Before laying the parquet board, it is advisable to keep it packed indoors for 2-3 days.
Choosing a direction
The choice of laying direction is carried out according to the direction of light from the window. That is, perpendicular to the window, if possible. This will give the floor best view, a visually smooth surface, and will also better hide the joints.
If the room is long and narrow, then installation is always carried out along the long side.
You should start laying the parquet board on the side that will always be visible. Since the first row always consists of whole boards, and the last one needs to be adjusted to the remaining space between the wall and the penultimate row. Thus, you need to start from the side where there will be the least amount of furniture.
Laying the first row
The first parquet board is placed with the “click tongue” facing the wall. Be sure to leave a gap of 10 mm between the wall and the board; use wedges for this.
The end of the second board must be attached to the first by placing a tenon in the groove. If there is a gap in the joint, then the boards should be hammered with a mallet, through a wooden block until they fit completely.
Important! Do not hit too hard, otherwise you may damage the locking joint.
When all the intact boards in a row are laid, it comes important point: you need to measure the last one and trim it:
To do this, turn the board 180 degrees, the latch side in this case is adjacent to the wall, and the front side is adjacent to the floor.
Press the board firmly against the wedge near the wall and use a tape measure to measure the distance from the wall (wedge) to the plank.
Draw the intended line with a pencil using a square so that it is clearly at 90 degrees.
All that remains is to cut the board with a hacksaw or jigsaw. This should be done slowly and as smoothly as possible.
Start the next row with the remaining piece (if it is at least 50 cm). This will save time on cutting; you can also start the next row by cutting off half of a whole board or a third, then the masonry will be more neat, like brick. Here you will have to cut both the first and last board of the row. These types of laying are called respectively - with a shift of a third and half of the board.
After cutting the board, it needs to be secured. It is impossible to do this near a wall with a mallet and a boss. A mounting crowbar is used here.
Second row and following
We start with the remainder from the end of the previous row. Or we cut it off, depending on what pattern you chose.
Important! The minimum shift is 40 cm.
We assemble the second row end to end in the same way as the first. Next, the entire row needs to be attached to the first, using the same locking clutch system as end to end.
When the locks are engaged, you need to carefully tap the entire row with a mallet through the bosses until fully engaged. This must be done as carefully as possible so as not to knock off the locks on the other edge. This is how subsequent rows are attached.
The last row
Most often, the last row has to be cut to length. You should measure the required width taking into account the wedges. When hammering, use a crowbar.