What is a subfloor in a bathhouse? How to make a floor in a bathhouse: device, varieties, installation technologies. Insulation of concrete floors

The floor in the steam room is the most critical moment when building a bathhouse. This article will discuss how to do bath floor with your own hands. Wooden and concrete floors are the main types that are used in a modern Russian bathhouse. This time we will talk about wooden non-leaking floors using the example of a steam room with dimensions of 2.5x3.0 meters.

Basic information

Leaking a wooden floor, as its name implies, is made when it is necessary for water to pass freely through the gaps between the floorboards and be removed from the underground space to the outside. Compared to other types, a leaky floor has a simple design and, accordingly, is the easiest to manufacture. It can only be used in regions with warm climates, as it does not have thermal insulation. In any case, when building a bathhouse with your own hands, I would recommend being careful when choosing this type of floor.

Leak-proof A wooden floor is made from tightly fitted tongue and groove boards. In the washing compartment, it is made inclined towards the drain ladder, which ensures free discharge of waste water into the general sewer system or drainage pit. For a steam room, making a drain does not make sense, as this will significantly increase the cost of its production. After all, when visiting a steam room, we won’t pour buckets of water there! For better cleaning The steam room can be made with a double-sided floor slope - this is quite enough for its convenient maintenance. When installing a leak-proof floor, insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier are done, which distinguishes it favorably from the above type.

Concrete the floor has an undoubted advantage over wood. Its service life is 30-50 years, while a wooden floor will last no more than 10 years. Although the cost of its construction is higher, its performance properties are significantly superior to any type made of wood. If desired, you can easily insulate it, lay ceramic tiles and drain the water. An excellent solution would be to install a heated floor in the steam room or washing department, which will greatly facilitate their maintenance.

Description of the floor design

As a rule, the floor in the steam room is made with an elevation relative to the level of the finished floor (zero mark). It is enough to raise it by 70-100 mm, and it will be achieved important goal– heat preservation in the steam room. And, conversely, in the washing department the floor is made below the level of the finished floor in order to prevent water from entering other rooms of the bathhouse. In accordance with this, the design of the reduced floor for the steam room has its own characteristics.

Basic materials

Finish floor. The best material The floor in the bathhouse is larch. Its hardness and wear resistance are comparable to oak. The only obstacle to its use is its price. The same board made of pine will cost 2-3 times less. If it is possible to get larch by paying the appropriate money for it, then it is - best option. Otherwise, you can use tongue and groove boards made of pine, fir, alder and birch. For elements located below the finished floor, pine can be used.

It is important to note that when laying the floor, the boards must be well dried. During the operation of the steam room, damp boards will dry out, changing their geometry: bending and twisting. This may be the reason for the appearance of gaps between the boards or the tearing out of screws at the points of attachment to the joists. The thicker the board, the greater the deformation forces. A board with a thickness of 20-25 mm has the least tendency to deform, but its strength properties are lower. This disadvantage is compensated for by laying additional joists. In our example, a well-dried tongue-and-groove board 36 mm thick and 120 mm wide was used to lay the finished floor.

For insulation We take basalt wool “Rockwool” 80x600x1200 mm. We will make waterproofing and vapor barrier from a windproof waterproofing membrane like “Tyvek Housewrap”. The advantage of this film is that it has a one-sided throughput, due to which the outside does not allow moisture to pass through, and the inside allows accumulated moisture and steam to freely escape from the insulation. More details about the materials used for insulation can be found in the article.

Rest wooden structures we make from dried lumber:

Backing beams 70x100x2960 mm (thickness, width, length);
Logs 50x180x2460 mm;
Skull block 40x40 mm;
For the subfloor, unedged board or waste edged board 20-25 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide.
board or waste edged board for subfloor 20-25 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide.

Composition and design features of the floor

To achieve the required elevation, in our example, support beams with a cross section of 70x100 mm were used. They will greatly help when installing floor joists, when it will be necessary to align them relative to the horizontal level. In addition, the floor structure will receive additional strength, since the support beams will take on part of the load on the floor.

Below is a list of components, the order of assembly of which corresponds to the order of laying the floor.

The outer support beams are laid on a surface covered with two layers of rolled roofing felt. The central beam rests on the opposite walls of the strip foundation with its two ends, and the central part rests on the surface of two support pillars.
On top of the support beams there are logs, which are cut to length with a slope of 20 mm on both sides towards the center. Skull blocks are nailed to the joists below for installing a subfloor on them.
A moisture-proof membrane with an outlet of 20-25 cm is laid on top of the subfloor for subsequent gluing with the waterproofing of the walls of the steam room.
Basalt wool mats are laid on the subfloor boards on top of the membrane, over which a layer of moisture and vapor barrier membrane is stretched.
The structure is completed with a finished floor made of tongue and groove boards.

Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that there is a ventilation gap of 20-30 mm between the lower (inner) surface of the finished floor and the vapor barrier membrane. As mentioned above, it should have outlets on each side within 20-25 cm for connection with the vapor barrier film under the lining. Moreover, this must be done in such a way that the air space under it is connected to the air space under the finished floor. Only in this case will free air circulation be ensured both under the floor and under the lining. Hot air circulating through ventilation gaps sheathed wall will draw cooler and more humid air from the underground space. The floor will be dry and not susceptible to rotting.

When installing logs and support beams, make sure that there is a gap of at least 10 mm between them and the walls of the steam room. When the log house settles, this is enough so that it does not affect the entire floor structure.

When laying the subfloor, be sure to remove the bark, if any. After all, we don’t want bark beetles to get there.

Methods of fastening structural elements

The quality of the work done depends on how we carry out these important operations. Before you begin installing the floor, you need to clearly understand what fasteners to use and how to connect all the structural elements to each other. Below are possible ways fastenings

Manufacturing of support pillars

To prevent the logs from deflecting due to the weight of people or steam room equipment, it is necessary to make support pillars (chairs) for them in the weakest places. The weakest point, naturally, will be the center of the joist. In our example, it is enough to install two supports with a cross section of 250x250 mm along the central longitudinal axis of the steam room. Chairs can be made of wood, brick or concrete. We will consider the last option.

Preparing the base

Mark places for support tables.
Dig a hole 400 mm deep. The dimensions of the pit in plan should be such that it would be easy to install formwork from edged boards.
Place a layer of sand at the bottom of the hole, pour water on it, and compact it with an unnecessary piece of wood. The thickness of the compacted layer should be about 100 mm.
Pour 150 mm thick crushed stone on top of the sand layer and compact it well too. As a result, we should have a total layer with a height of 250 mm.
From edged boards, construct formwork for a square post 250 x 250 mm, the inner surface of which is covered with rolled roofing felt. The height of the formwork should ensure that concrete is poured to the top level of the strip foundation.
Inside the formwork, lay steel reinforcement from a ø10 mm bar in the form of a flat lattice with four cells 75 x 75 mm. Tie the rods together steel wire. Place broken bricks under the grating so that the distance from the reinforcement to the crushed stone layer is about 50 mm, and from the walls of the formwork no more than 50 mm.

Pouring concrete

Prepare a concrete solution in the ratio cement: sand: fine gravel – 1: 3: 5. The consistency of the solution should be above average, allowing it to be compacted well.
Pour a 50 mm thick layer of concrete and compact it. Place steel reinforcement on it from a ø10 mm bar in the form of a flat lattice with four cells 75 x 75 mm. Tie the rods together with steel wire. Make sure that the distance from the reinforcement to the formwork walls is no more than 50 mm.
Place the rest of the concrete mortar on top of the reinforcement, compact it, level it on top of the formwork and make the screed with an even block or lath.
Leave for a couple of days for the concrete to set. When the concrete is sufficiently strong, it’s time to begin installing the floor.
All subsequent work on installing the support beams and, in general, all the logs in general, depends on how the support pillars are made and their level relative to the upper level of the bathhouse foundation. Therefore, in order to make your work easier, the supporting platforms of the pillars should be as close as possible to the conventional plane passing along the upper surfaces of the walls of the bathhouse foundation.

The procedure for arranging the floor in a bathhouse

Before starting installation you need everything wooden elements treat the floor structures in several layers. Treat the support areas of the pillars and the upper surface of the strip foundation with liquid tar and lay the rolled roofing felt in 2 layers.

Installation of support beams

The construction of a wooden floor in a bathhouse should begin with the installation of floor joists, which should be pine or made of larch. Boards made of the same type of wood are attached to these logs. When laying the floor, you should do it with a certain slope so that liquid can drain easily. However, if you are installing a leaky floor, this condition is not necessary. The laying of logs should be carried out at a minimum distance from the selected wall to another, but if the walls in the bathhouse are equilateral, this condition can also be ignored.

Having determined the path of the flowing liquid, we install the logs in diameter relative to given vector. To achieve the required rigidity, support chairs are mounted in the central area of each of them, which can easily be made of brick or a pliable material such as wood. Under them, a support platform reinforced with a chain-link mesh is made from a durable concrete mixture, at least a quarter of a meter wide.

We dig forty centimeter holes for the platform base, followed by compacting the edges and bottom. A ten-centimeter layer of sand is poured onto the bottom of such pits and compacted with water. A fifteen-centimeter crushed stone layer is laid above this layer and also compacted. Instead of ordinary crushed stone, you can take broken brick.

Formwork that protrudes more than 5 cm above the ground surface is made from edged boards. The edges should be insulated from water with roofing felt or use roofing felt. After completing the installation of the formwork, a debut concrete layer is placed there, with an approximate thickness of about 15 cm. It is compacted and covered with a chain-link mesh, and then exactly the same second layer is placed on top. Before installing a wooden or brick support on the site under construction, a waterproofing layer is made of bitumen brought to the melting temperature, covered with roofing felt. The degree of elevation of the supports should be selected taking into account the degree of elevation of the supports for the ends of the floor joists.

A strip-type foundation requires the same height of the support and the top of the foundation being constructed.

But the columnar type of foundation being constructed now being considered requires the same height of the supporting top and the rising part of the embedded beam, since we will rest the end parts of the lags on the bars of the embedded crown. After completing work with the supports, we begin to prepare the soil located underground.

Leaking floors in a bathhouse with sandy soil require crushed stone backfill, the thickness of which can be a quarter of a meter. This material here will play the role of a filter, providing optimal level humidity in the underground in question. Soil that does not absorb water well needs to create a tray where water flowing outside the bathhouse will be accumulated.

To implement this technology, it is advisable to install a clay castle under the leaky type floor, sloping towards the drainage tray. The castle can also be made of concrete mixture, but this will be more expensive. To make such a castle, you need to compact a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone poured onto the surface of the soil and pour a fifteen-centimeter layer of a pliable material such as clay on top of it. It must be level and have a two-sided slope in relation to the equipped pit relative to the horizon line.

If you are installing a non-leakage floor, you should insulate the surface of the bathhouse underground with such multifunctional and inexpensive material, like expanded clay. In this case, there should be about 15 cm between it and the logs for optimal air circulation. The flushing compartment near the wall here will serve as a place for pit equipment, from where a pipe will lead outside, leading water out. Its diameter should exceed 150 mm so as not to slow down the process of emptying the drainage tray.

Installation of logs

Laying of logs for a non-leaking type of floor should be carried out from the walls to the drainage tray, while the front logs should be mounted higher in level than the rest, and not cut into them. In the following lags, inclined cuts are made at an angle of approximately 10 degrees, and their depth depends on the number of lags used - the fewer there are, the deeper the cuts.

The sawing of the beams here is carried out taking into account the size of the space bath room, so that on both sides there is about 4 cm between the joists and wall surfaces for successful air circulation.

Installation of logs is carried out on embedded beams and pillars of the support type. The process necessarily uses waterproofing materials, such as roofing felt and glassine. All installed logs are treated with an antiseptic solution.

You can check the correct installation using a building level. To bring the logs into a more horizontal position, you need to trim the places on them that rest on the embedded beam or the support used.

You can also check the uniformity of laying with a level. This can be done by placing a level on a board lying on the joists with a leveled surface. You can trim the joists either using pads or hems.

Near the base being installed, the logs must certainly lie along the perimeter at a distance of about 15 cm from the edges. The stove foundation is brought to the level of the flooring only after the installation work is completed.

Photo - stove foundation

To do this, you will need to lay the base under the stove on a pre-arranged area. Here you can use fire bricks or concrete.

Installation of a leaky floor

Here, unedged boards are used, pre-planed and leveled at the ends.

The boards are cut to fit the dimensions of the bathhouse, taking into account that there is a two-centimeter gap between the surface of the walls and the floor. The flooring can be laid from any wall surface, as long as it is parallel to the course of the boards.

The cut boards are laid at a distance of 2 cm from the wall surface and nailed. Moreover, if the thickness of the board is 40 mm, the length of the fastening element used must exceed 80 mm.

Fasteners should be used along the edges of the boards, at a distance of about 1.5 cm from their edges. It is best to drive the nails in at an angle of 40 degrees from the center of the board. You should use at least a couple of nails to secure one board.

The gap between the nailed boards should exceed 3 mm. A piece of regular fiberboard sheet inserted between them will help to meet this condition.

Installation of a non-leaking floor

Here, tongue and groove boards are optimally suited, which, as a rule, are laid with a groove inside the bathhouse.

Before starting work, the so-called black floor covering is installed. To implement this, special bars are attached to the front parts of the logs, with a cross-section represented by a value of 50x50 mm. On them, between the logs, there are boards belonging to the second or third grade.

A layer of materials that provide protection from moisture, such as glassine or the common and inexpensive roofing felt, is laid on top of the finished “black” floor covering.

The insulation here can be expanded clay, poured into the space between the joists. After backfilling is completed, a waterproofing layer is also laid.

Having finished with the installation of the “black” floor covering, we begin work on laying the finished floor. Here tongue-and-groove boards are taken. So that they can be removed from their places for subsequent drying, the boards used in the work do not even need to be fastened with fasteners such as nails, using instead bars with a cross-section of 20x30 mm, mounted to the joists with special “capercaillie” screws. Thus, you can easily make the floor in the bathhouse with your own hands.

The floor in the bathhouse performs a number of functions that distinguish it from the flooring in living rooms. Not only does it allow free movement while constantly being hydrated, but it is also part of sewer system. Therefore, before installing such a floor, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of its installation.

Peculiarities

Before choosing a floor for a bath, you need to consider some nuances. The first thing that is important to consider is what season the premises will be used. If the bathhouse will be used all year round, then it usually houses showers, a dressing room, an additional steam room and rest rooms. In such a bathhouse, a permanent floor is installed: an insulated covering with ventilation and drainage. It is enough to make the floor in the summer sauna leaky.

Installation of a leaking floor is carried out by laying boards measuring 1.5 meters by 50 millimeters. The boards are laid on top of logs - beams with a diameter of about 150 mm. When installing joists, it is necessary to take into account the type of base. For example, for a columnar foundation, the logs must be supported on a foundation beam. The logs are laid sequentially, starting with the most short wall, the beams are placed at a distance of about 60 cm. The places where the lags come into contact with the foundation are treated with bitumen mastic or roofing felt to ensure insulation.

Next, the subfloor is installed - a layer of soil is laid on top of the boards. The material and its quantity are selected based on the type of foundation soil. If the soil absorbs water well, then the subfloor is covered with a layer of crushed stone about 25 centimeters thick. Clay soils that swell when wet and do not conduct moisture well must be covered with a material that allows water to drain. Then lay the floor boards, leaving a distance of 2 cm around the entire perimeter.

There should also be a small gap between the floorboards. The planks are fixed to the beams with nails. To provide protection from dampness and prevent the development of fungus, the coating is treated with drying oil.

A leaky floor is also called a “cold” floor because its temperature is always low. The disadvantages of this coating are that it is recommended to install it only in regions with a mild, warm climate. Rooms with such a floor are almost impossible to use in the cold season, because it cannot be insulated. However, there is an option to install the stove below floor level. This design allows the boards to be heated and better protected from rotting.

The process of creating a non-leaking floor is technologically more complex and resource-intensive. Before laying the logs, the subfloor must be installed. Further wood flooring covered with layers of waterproofing coating. To reduce heat loss from the premises, the floor must be protected with insulation boards made of mineral wool or fiberglass. To prevent natural insulation materials from losing their properties under the influence of water, a moisture-resistant coating is laid on top.

The subfloor is filled with a layer of bitumen and prepared for the installation of floorboards. The technology for laying boards depends on the purpose of the room. The floorboards in the steam room should face the direction of the light beam. In the dressing room, the flooring is laid in the direction of travel. It is important not to forget to leave a space of at least one centimeter along the contour of the room. This distance provides ventilation.

A Russian bathhouse with a heated floor resembles a pie in terms of its drainage system. The boards are placed at a slight slope, which ensures liquid drainage into the built-in collector. The moisture then flows through the pipes and is removed outside the extension. The advantages of heated floors are that the coating is additionally protected from the cold, and the moisture removal system allows you to increase the shelf life of the boards.

Which coating should you choose?

The indoors of a classic Russian bathhouse have high humidity, and the temperature can reach 65 degrees. Under such conditions, there is a high probability of the floor rotting, especially the wooden covering. It is important to understand that each room has a bathhouse different conditions operation, coating material and operating technology may vary significantly in each room. In addition to individual characteristics, the floor must have some general physical and mechanical characteristics.

The coating must be resistant to critical temperature changes: from above the floor interacts with hot water, and cold soil acts on it from below. Also, the flooring must withstand both mechanical stress and contact with chemical reagents of detergents. A mandatory characteristic of the coating is resistance to constant interaction with moisture and saturated water vapor. It is important to remember that floorboards should be non-slip and require little maintenance. In addition to the above mechanical properties, the floor in the bathhouse should look aesthetically pleasing.

The classic flooring is wood flooring. This method of laying bath floors is still used today. This is not only a tribute to tradition - wood has a high heat capacity and beautiful appearance. A significant drawback of boards is their low moisture resistance: the coating is susceptible to rotting and requires additional protection. Before deciding to install a wooden floor, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of each tree species. For example, oak becomes too slippery when exposed to moisture.

Concrete flooring is no less popular than its wooden counterpart. Cement screed has high mechanical strength, which ensures a long service life. It is important to understand that a finishing coating must be laid on the concrete base. Craftsmen advise using tiles. Ceramics are easy to install and use. A significant disadvantage of a concrete floor is the need for thermal insulation. Also, such a floor must be laid on a slope to ensure water drainage.

When building baths, preference is increasingly being given to laying stone and tile floors. Ceramics perfectly imitate natural stone and have a relatively low cost. In addition, this coating is durable and waterproof. Important point– joints between ceramic fragments require additional treatment to protect against dampness and prevent the formation of fungus.

For the right choice flooring, you need to take into account all the operational features of the selected room. The steam room can have concrete, stone or ceramic floors - these materials can withstand extreme conditions. It is unacceptable to use coatings containing formaldehyde. When exposed to water and high temperature, such materials release toxic substances.

If you want to decorate the floor with paint or varnish, then you need to take into account some restrictions. The safest way to decorate a wooden surface is to use water-based or dispersion acrylic paint. It is strictly prohibited to use oil paint or alkyd composition.

The requirements for the floor in a washing room are not as high as for the flooring in a steam room. However, the spill coating must withstand prolonged contact with water and detergents. Floors must also withstand critical temperature changes. These requirements are fully satisfied by ceramics. Wood is also actively used in washing, but it must be treated with a special impregnation or varnished.

The floor in the dressing room has virtually no contact with water and steam, so there is no need to increase its water resistance. The dressing room contains a firebox, so the floor covering must be protected from fire and overheating. As a rule, boards are laid here. A metal plate measuring 60 by 90 centimeters is mounted in front of the firebox. This device is necessary to protect the floor from falling sparks and fire.

In the rest room you can lay carpet or linoleum. The floors in this room should be comfortable and cozy. The main requirement for such a coating is that it must retain heat well. Since rest rooms do not come into contact with moisture and cannot withstand temperature changes, they do not require additional protection. They can also have raised areas on the floor or shelves to place your feet, which will add comfort.

Necessary tools and components

In order to obtain a high-quality floor with a long service life, it is necessary to follow the installation technique and materials preparation technology. The success of installation largely depends on the correct choice of tools. The floor can be installed under the guidance of a specialist or independently.

Some tools needed to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse:

The correct screed cannot be laid without the use of special rakes. These devices level the concrete mass during the laying process. It is important to understand that the coating should be as smooth as possible: violations in technology can lead to serious consequences.

A laser or water level will help to obtain the surface of the required evenness. It can also be used to vary the angle of the boards. The grooves for water drainage must be smooth: no level differences along the flow of liquid are allowed. Such points must be corrected both at the initial stages of installation and as the slabs are laid.

Trowels are needed to spread cement over the entire surface from the far corner of the room to the edges. With the help of trowels, impregnation or varnish is also applied when finishing the surface. Trowels come with both pointed and semicircular edges. The rounded edges of the tool do not leave visible marks on the screed.

Cement grater. This device is necessary to obtain a flat surface. It is necessary to make circular movements along the surface of the laid mass. With their help, excess material is also removed and an even coating is obtained.

Flats are also necessary to obtain a smooth surface. Thanks to their design, they are able to cover and smooth large area, rather than graters or trowels. The trowels are used for global work of rolling out cement over the entire surface. Among such tools are corner-type trowels - they are used to obtain a smooth coating at the junction of the floor and the wall.

To mix expanded clay or expanded clay concrete efficiently, you need a concrete mixer and a container for the solution. The mixing technology depends on its composition and installation method. Before working directly with cement, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the technology and mode of preparation of the mixture. This process can be done manually, but there is a risk of getting a non-uniform mass. An incorrectly mixed composition will not provide the required performance properties of the floor.

Also, don’t forget about simple tools. A shovel will greatly facilitate the process of spreading the concrete mass over the surface. A Velcro towel or any other cloth material is necessary for cleaning tools while working. An even screed will only be achieved when working with cleaned equipment. You should also have a container of water on hand.

To install a wooden floor, you need a different set of tools.

Metal profile for laying boards. A special grid is mounted from small steel gutters onto which the boards are laid. Such a frame is necessary to ensure that the sauna floor is laid evenly and holds tightly. Profiles are sold complete with special fasteners.

An electric screwdriver and drill are needed to secure the boards. They can be replaced with a metal hammer, but this will require a lot of time and effort. In addition to ordinary screws, staples are used to fix the boards.

To obtain beams of the required size, use an electric plane and a hacksaw. The work of cutting wood is quite dusty, so craftsmen recommend laying a rug or sheets of newspaper on the floor of the work area. This will significantly reduce subsequent cleaning time.

Any flooring job requires a level. The laser device is much easier to use and helps to achieve even coverage or the desired slope.
The final wood layer often needs to be varnished or painted. To do this, you need to stock up on rollers and brushes. Also, many materials are sticky and toxic, so all work must be done with gloves.

How to do it yourself?

The installation of a leaky floor begins with the installation of logs. It can be wooden beams or metal beams. Before installation, logs must be treated with a special antiseptic that increases their corrosion resistance. The choice of antiseptics is large, but some prefer to use used machine oil as an analogue. If wood beams are chosen for the installation of logs, then they must be dried. To do this, the wood is left for some time in a room with a humidity of 10 to 12 percent. To save time, you can buy ready-made wood after drying in a chamber.

The logs are laid parallel to the smallest wall. If the room in the bathhouse is large enough, it is recommended to create a rigid frame. To do this, reinforced concrete piles are installed under the logs in increments of no more than one meter.

For correct installation lag has a step by step guide:

It is necessary to remove from the installation site upper layer soil. Next, lay out a layer of sand or crushed stone 10 to 15 centimeters thick and reinforce the system with mesh.
Piles are laid from bricks or fragments of reinforced concrete slabs. This design will provide the base with the necessary load-bearing capacity.
The system must be treated with bitumen mastic to protect it from water.

The fixed piles are covered with two layers of waterproofing. Sheets should not be laid too close to the walls. It is necessary to leave a gap of at least 4 cm around the entire perimeter. This will ensure ventilation of the resulting structure.

Next, the water drainage system is installed. Moisture must be drained away from the foundation. To properly arrange drainage, you need to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the foundation soil. If the soil absorbs moisture well, then it is necessary to remove a layer of soil from the entire area of the bathhouse and cover the surface with crushed stone. On soils with low drainage capacity, you need to dig a hole about 40 cm deep and install a moisture drainage system into it. A special clay backfill ensures uniform water flow. With this method, floors must be laid at a slope of 10 degrees towards the water intake.

The underfloor heating boards are processed - they are hewn from the front side and leveled. A gap of two centimeters is left between the masonry and the wall to allow natural ventilation. The boards are laid at right angles to the location of the joists. This technology provides the necessary strength of the future floor. It is necessary to maintain the same distance between the boards: craftsmen advise using fragments of plywood for these purposes.

Warm floors can also be laid on joists. The beams or steel pipes are laid using the previously described step-by-step actions. To obtain a surface slope, four millimeter cuts are made in the joists. It is not allowed to cut joists adjacent to the walls. The heated floor drainage system is excellent. A hole with a depth of at least 300 millimeters and dimensions of 400 by 400 millimeters is dug between two supports.

The walls of the resulting pit must be reinforced with concrete and coated with bitumen. Installation drain pipe carried out at the bottom of the pit with an indentation of two centimeters. The drainage pipe must be at least 15 centimeters in diameter. PVC is perfect for these purposes.

The boards are laid starting from the rough layer. Next comes the waterproofing coating, laid out overlapping. The joints are coated with a small amount of bitumen mastic or taped. After fixing the waterproofing, a layer of insulation is laid. In this case, craftsmen advise paying attention to mineral or environmental wool and expanded clay slabs. A more environmentally friendly type of insulation is a mixture of sawdust and PVA.

It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier between the finishing coating and the insulation. It is also important to leave a gap of at least fifteen millimeters between the layers: an exhaust pipe is passed through the hole. The boards of the final layer should not have cracks in the joints, so builders prefer tongue-and-groove boards. You must not forget about installing the drainage system.

Laying the concrete screed is carried out in several stages. The first concrete layer is poured to a height of no more than six centimeters and left until completely dry. Thermal insulation of standard thickness is laid on a slightly damp layer. To provide the coating with the necessary rigidity, the insulation is covered reinforced mesh. The last layer of fill is laid at an angle of 10 to 15 degrees to ensure drainage.

Finishing layer, as a rule, the thickness does not exceed nine centimeters. Next, the surface can be decorated with ceramics or plank masonry. It is important not to forget that the coating must be resistant to temperature changes and have a specified strength. After installing the floor, the walls are polished.

Wood

The plank covering is perfect for installing a leaky floor in a steam room. Wood has good technical characteristics and requires relatively little labor. Experts advise complete beginners to opt for a cold floor. There is no need to create an insulated “pie” of the foundation and lay utility lines. A leaking floor in a steam room requires only simple drainage.

The flooring does not need to be fixed to the joists, since the covering must be regularly removed and dried in the open air. This design helps keep the material in good condition even when the floor frequently interacts with hot water. The board requires replacement 4-6 years after commissioning. If you still want to fix the coating on the joists, then the boards must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic. A cold floor made of larch or pine is considered the most optimal price-quality ratio. Oak flooring does not have sufficient roughness and can cause injury.

Leak-resistant wood flooring is suitable for year-round use. In the washing department and steam room, such a coating will last up to 10 years if you properly install the rough layer and do not neglect installation insulating materials. It is not recommended to paint boards. Chemical composition can clog wood pores, which will give the coating a persistent chemical aroma.

Also, paint does not help protect the boards from rotting. Craftsmen advise leaving the surface clean, but sanding it well. Natural wood has a pleasant smell, and the aroma of pine needles is considered beneficial to health. In order to protect the coating from rotting, special compounds are used. But an important point is the drainage system.

Concrete

Concrete has a long service life, which makes it a leader among materials for installing bath floors. A properly installed coating can last up to 50 years and does not require special conditions operation. Concrete screed is not prone to rotting, because the development of microorganisms in concrete is impossible. Caring for this floor does not require special measures or the purchase of expensive products.

The screed can be poured and used as a finished floor covering, or tiles can be laid on top. It is laid on the ground or logs. To strengthen the foundation for installing a heated floor, a device is often used screw piles. An insulating “pie” is already installed on these piles and a screed is poured. A concrete floor requires a lot of time and resources because it is a complex multi-layer structure.

Before purchasing, you should familiarize yourself with the composition of the product. Some types contain crushed stone or gravel, so they can cause difficulties during the mixing process. A homogeneous mass can only be obtained using a concrete mixer or hammer drill. If there are no such devices, then craftsmen recommend purchasing a solution based on a cement-sand base. This material is much easier to mix and pour.

The consistency and composition of the solution largely depend on the conditions of further operation of the cement screed. If concrete acts as a subfloor for laying boards, then the mixture does not require special additives. If you want to lay ceramic tiles on a screed, you must add gypsum with an admixture of anhydrate to the solution. Concrete flooring is not recommended for use as a rough floor for the installation of synthetic flooring. When interacting with critical temperatures, synthetics release complex chemicals that can be hazardous to health.

When installing a concrete coating, proper waterproofing is important. The floor is located at a slight slope, and a special pit with a drain is installed under the base of the foundation. Water moves along the gutter and ground and is removed outside the bathhouse. Technologically competent installation of this system will protect the foundation from corrosion and allow the cement screed to serve for a long time.

tiled

Ceramics are widely used for laying cold floors. This material is not subject to decomposition under the influence of microorganisms and does not require special operating conditions. The tile is resistant to critical temperature changes. The coating is also resistant to moisture, which allows it to be installed everywhere in the bathhouse.

Designers note the wide color palette of this material, so they often use it to create decor in the recreation room. The tiles are environmentally friendly and do not emit harmful substances and does not have a chemical smell. The ceramics are laid directly on the self-leveling concrete floor.

The screed does not always provide a smooth coating and requires additional measures. Surface roughness must be kept to a minimum, since this work requires effort and time. Tile laid on a screed with uneven surfaces will not last long. Water can get into the voids, which will lead to the appearance of fungus between the joints of the mosaic. Gaps between fragments need to be processed special means both during installation and during operation.

A significant disadvantage of tiles is its high thermal conductivity. To prevent the temperature in the steam room from dropping, proper thermal insulation is necessary. Another significant drawback is the risk of injury to the varnish coating. It is necessary to purchase tiles with a rough surface so that they do not become slippery when in contact with water. Today there are many ceramic tiles imitating a stone covering.

Designers highlight mosaics stylized as pebbles. In addition to aesthetics and beauty, this coating has a massage effect. Such a tile will become great solution when decorating a relaxation room in a marine style. Small stone particles are complemented by ground glass inserts. The sparkling inserts have a beautiful shine and reflect light in an interesting way.

To increase service life ceramic coating it is covered with glaze and fired several times. In addition, craftsmen advise giving preference to thick tiles. This material is resistant to temperature fluctuations. You should not buy tiles with a large number of pores - they are less durable. Preference should be given to clinker mosaic or porcelain stoneware cladding. Pay close attention to the surface texture: glossy shine should be avoided.

Heated

The heated concrete floor creates a comfortable microclimate. This option is necessary when installing a cold floor, especially in a cool climate zone. Also the system heated floors heats the surface from the inside, drying the material. This system allows you to get rid of dampness and increase the life of the floor covering. It is important to understand that such a heated floor is quite difficult to install for a beginner. Requires instructions from a master and control of the installation process.

Underfloor heating is a system of pipes or cables through which warm liquid moves. Convection ensures uniform heating of the floor around the entire perimeter of the room, regardless of the location of the heating device. Pipes experience strong internal pressure, so the surface must be additionally reinforced. The contours themselves are easy to install, but require reliable attachment to the rough surface. To install such heating, you should purchase pipes without seams or joints.

The distance between the contours is called the masonry pitch. It must be maintained during the installation process. Violation of the step leads to uneven heating of the floor. A similar gradient is noticeable upon contact with the floor. You should also choose the floor covering more carefully when installing a heated floor. Ceramics tend to heat up quickly, so craftsmen do not recommend using tiles as a finishing layer. Preference should be given to wooden panels.

Today, there are two methods of installing heated floors. Water system carried out by circulating the heated liquid from the pump through the pipes. The coolant in this design can be either plain water or special anti-freezing compounds. The water system consists of a boiler, manifold and pipes. It is difficult to install and is expensive. However, such a system allows you to reduce heating costs. Water heated floors are often used as additional heating in apartments and houses.

Another way to install heated floors is through an electrical system. These "cable" floors are easy to install, but their price depends entirely on energy tariffs. The cable converts electricity into heat and heats the surface evenly. To control heating, temperature sensors are installed in the floor. It is important to remember that such a system should not be combined with wooden materials, since there is a high probability of wood overheating and a fire.

Installation of each type of heated floor requires the supervision of a specialist. The floor is laid on thermal insulation material. Vapor barrier is an equally important layer when installing a heated floor. After laying the contours, the surface is filled with cement screed.

All pipe joints must be additionally secured. It is important to remember that once the cement layer has been laid, it will not be possible to make adjustments. Otherwise, you will need to completely remove the masonry, re-clean the surface and eliminate violations in the installation of the circuits. It is important to lay pipes on a perfectly clean surface. After making adjustments, the surface is filled with a new layer of cement mortar.

Before use, floors are pre-tested and heated in accordance with the instructions. The problems are corrected and the system is checked again. The cycle must be resumed until the required temperature is achieved. Only after final tests cement screed level and begin installing the finishing floor covering. It is important to understand that each joint of the material requires careful processing. A water heated floor will last a long time if all its features are taken into account during the installation process, for example, steam and waterproofing of the floor.

For the manufacture of high-quality coating experts advise you to listen to some recommendations. The reasons for the destruction of floors can be different, but many can be prevented if you do not violate the technology of laying the coating. The choice of quality material also plays an important role.

When installing joists, it is important to install waterproofing between the pillars. This coating will protect the frame from rot and rapid destruction. Otherwise, the foundation will quickly collapse upon contact with water. The posts should also be made from materials with high frost resistance and water resistance. Water can accumulate in the soil, which will lead to corrosion of concrete and subsidence of the structure.

Wooden floors cannot be installed without ventilation. Its design provides for gaps around the entire perimeter, depending on the type of layer being laid. It is not always possible to correct the violation after laying the finishing coating, so it is necessary not to violate the technology at each stage of the work.

Floor boards should not be less than 35 millimeters in thickness. Such a board will withstand critical loads and last a long time, unlike its analogue of smaller thickness. All floor boards must be cut to the same dimensions. This will not only simplify installation, but will also ensure the necessary evenness and slope of the surface. During cold periods, this coating will retain heat longer.

Installation of wooden floors should only be carried out using stainless steel fasteners. Metal structures can be further treated to protect them from rust. Since the coating is regularly exposed to water, it is necessary to pay special attention to the choice metal structures and fasteners.

The floor level of the washing compartment is always located slightly below the level of other rooms. The steam room and relaxation room should be raised a few millimeters.

Before you start laying the boards, the coating needs to be treated. The material is impregnated not only with a mixture to protect against moisture, but also with a substance that protects against fire. The latter is especially important when installing warm electric floors. All components of the floor must be fire resistant. These indicators are specified in regulatory documents and must be supported by material certificates.

Craftsmen advise giving preference to tiled floors. This combination reliably protects against natural phenomena and the negative effects of the bathhouse. The coating is easy to install and use and will save on hiring workers.

When arranging a steam room, it is necessary to properly arrange the ventilation system. Otherwise, water vapor will accumulate and destroy the coating of the ceiling and walls. Rooms with poor ventilation require constant ventilation after use. Only in this case will the bathhouse last a long time. To vent ventilation outside in the attic, it is necessary to install a pipe through which water vapor and smoke will be removed from the room. At monolithic foundation craftsmen advise making holes from ventilation pipe out.

Most owners of private houses with a plot of land would like to have their own bathhouse on their large (or not so large) farm. As they say, it’s good for the body and good for the soul. Building a bathhouse with your own hands is not that difficult, but in order for the structure to be reliable and serve for a long time, you need to know some rules. In particular, Special attention attention should be paid to the arrangement of the floors in the bathhouse.

Depending on the wishes and capabilities of the owner, the bathhouse can be made quite simple - wooden frame, consisting of a dressing room and a steam room, or you can build a real bath complex with a dressing room, a steam room, a washing room and a relaxation room.

If we are talking about building a small wooden bathhouse, which can be used only in the warm season, then it is advisable to make the floor from wood. In the case of building a permanent bathhouse made of brick, it is better to lay a reliable concrete floor with waterproofing and drainage. Such a brick bathhouse will be suitable for use both in summer and winter, which significantly increases its functionality.

Another great option in terms of practicality and beauty is styling. This material is durable and easy to care for. In addition, on modern market a wide selection is available various designs tiles, which will satisfy even the most demanding taste. To avoid the floor slipping during operation and excessive overheating, it is better to place removable wooden grates on the tiles. As you know, the grout between the seams is easily rotten due to high humidity. To prevent this from happening, it should be treated with special antiseptic agents.

Video - Tile in the bathhouse

Concrete floor for a bath: durability and reliability

In the concrete floor, it is also necessary to provide for the installation of pipes for water drainage and drainage holes, which are covered with wooden gratings for convenience and aesthetic appeal. In order for water to flow freely, the floor is made with a slope towards the drain holes.

Video - Russian steam room: what should it be like?

Installation of wooden floors in a bathhouse: features and recommendations

Installing a wooden floor in a bathhouse has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include relatively small financial investments and ease of installation. But the main disadvantage is the fragility of wood due to high levels of humidity and temperature changes; a wooden floor can begin to rot and will have to be re-laid.

When installing wooden floors in a bathhouse, it is better to use boards made from coniferous trees - pine, fir, larch and others. Due to the high resin content, such wood is more resistant to moisture, and the essential oils that are released from the wood will be useful in terms of therapeutic effect. It is also important that boards made of coniferous trees do not become slippery when wet, this will protect those washing from falling.

Video - Do-it-yourself bathhouse floor

You can make a wooden floor in a bathhouse leaking and non-leaking.

When installing a leaking wooden floor in a bathhouse, it is necessary to provide for a gap underneath it. It is recommended to leave about 50 cm of free space - this way the air can blow freely and from all sides on the boardwalk.

A slope for water drainage is formed under a wooden floor, on a clay or cement surface. There is also supposed to be a pit through which the flowing water will be drained into a filter well. To form an inclined line, gravel is used, which is evenly placed under the clay layer. If the screed is made of cement, the pit must be sealed with waterproofing.

To improve the ventilation of leaking floor boards, you can use a blower stone oven, if it is installed under the floor, and also vent air from under the floor to the roof using asbestos-cement or plastic pipes.

It is not recommended to paint wood floors or treat them with any compounds. This will not add durability to the tree, but the fact that the boards will stop breathing is a fact. Thus, instead of a rich and healthy pine aroma, there will be a persistent smell in the bathhouse chemical solutions. Wood is susceptible to decay in any case, so the best option is thorough sanding of boards before use in construction.

Basic principles of installing a wooden leaky floor for a bath

Installation of a wooden leaky floor for a bathhouse consists of the following steps.

Floor frame installation

The installation of the floor frame includes the installation of joists. The logs themselves are laid on stable pedestals, which are cast from reinforced concrete and covered with brick or concrete supports. The height at which the logs are installed depends on the height of the embedded beam (for a columnar foundation) or concrete “strips” (for strip foundation). The logs are laid parallel to the short wall of the bathhouse. To prevent the logs from drawing moisture from the supporting pedestals, the pedestals themselves are covered with roofing felt. Also, logs should not be laid close to the walls of the bathhouse - for better ventilation, you need to leave gaps 3-4 cm wide.

Arrangement of the underground

In order for the water that gets into the underground to quickly drain, the ground needs to be prepared - cut off the top layer of soil and cover the surface with crushed stone 25 cm high.

For soils that do not absorb water well, it is necessary to cut the soil at an angle and drain the water into a pit about 30 cm deep, in which a sewer pipe is placed. The surface of the earth should be covered with a double layer of clay and well leveled - this will make it easier for water to reach the pit.

Installation of floor boards

Floor boards are laid perpendicular to the joists, without touching the walls or each other. The indentation should be 2 cm, the distance between adjacent boards should be 3-5 mm. The boards are fixed to the joists with nails.

Installation of non-leakage floor. Instructions

Installation of a wooden non-leaking floor begins with the installation of logs according to the scheme described above, with the only difference being that notches must be made on the logs to obtain an inclined surface. The process includes the following steps.

Arrangement of a water receiver

When installing a non-leakage floor, it is necessary to provide a 40*40 cm water collector, which should be placed between the supports and compacted with concrete mortar or clay. The depth of the catchment is 30 cm. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a sewer pipe is installed at an angle, through which water can freely flow into the cesspool.

Installation of subfloor

Bars measuring 5*5 cm are nailed onto the logs, on top of which boards of the second grade are laid. They are covered with hydro- and thermal insulation ( mineral wool, expanded clay) and a layer of vapor barrier that will protect all previous layers from moisture.

Installation of finished floor

The finished floor is laid from tongue-and-groove boards so that the mounting groove is inside the structure. In order to ensure sufficient ventilation of the inner layer, it is necessary to lay a pipe between the layers of the floor and its other end to the roof.

Waterproofing a bathhouse floor: an important issue

The moment of waterproofing the floor in a room with increased level humidity, such as a bathhouse, requires a special approach. It is necessary to think over a detailed and competent plan for waterproofing the floor before starting construction of the bathhouse.

Firstly, it is necessary to ensure the outflow of flowing water. For this purpose, the presence of drain holes is provided, which are connected to sewer pipes leading to the cesspool.
Secondly, the floor surface must be cleaned of dirt and treated with a primer solution, thus preparing it for further work.

Infrared floor heating in the bathhouse

Installation of water pipes is quite complicated. Due to the heaviness of the pipes under water pressure, it is necessary to reinforce the floor screed. Electrical cables have significantly more advantages in this regard. They are relatively light and easy to install and are sold ready-made blocks in the form of a “substrate”, which only needs to be correctly placed on the floor surface and then filled with a layer of concrete.

When installing heated floors, you should be careful when choosing the finishing floor covering. In particular, tiles have the ability to heat up quickly, so it is better to place wooden grates on top of them.

Video - How to make a subfloor with your own hands

The technology and process of arranging floors in a steam bath and washing department differ significantly from the principles of constructing floors in residential and commercial buildings.

To provide effective system drainage, ventilation, hydro- and thermal insulation, it is necessary to adhere to the basic installation rules. A properly equipped bathhouse floor ensures rapid removal of wastewater and maintains the microclimate in the room.

Often the floor for a bathhouse is made of wood or concrete. It is difficult to determine which floor is better, since each type of base has its own operational features and characteristics that should be taken into account when arranging a private bathhouse.

Concrete floor

Wooden floor

A wooden floor is simpler and more accessible to install, but less durable than its concrete counterpart. After only 10 years of active operation, individual elements of such a structure are subject to reconstruction or replacement.

Plank floors can be made from coniferous and deciduous wood, resistant to moisture and temperature changes. The wooden base comes in two types: leaking and non-leaking.

Leaky type floor

This a budget option structure, presented in the form of a wooden lattice, the individual elements of which are installed in compliance with the gaps for the free discharge of wastewater into the ground.

A leaky floor does not require complex installation drainage system and additional insulation. For this reason, it is recommended to use a bathhouse with a similar floor in the summer or in regions with a warm climate.

This basis is available for independent arrangement, in addition, and renovation work will not cause technical difficulties. In this design, the floorboards are not attached to the joists, so if necessary, they can be dismantled for drying or replacement.

Non-leakage floor

A non-leakage floor has a continuous structure installed on floors that are embedded in the ground or concrete base. For efficient drainage, it is performed at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

To install a solid floor, a tongue-and-groove board made of larch or pine, installed on supports, is used. High-quality floor boards should not have deformations or defects.

The top flooring is laid on the subfloor, which is pre-insulated with moisture-resistant material.

A bathhouse with this type of floor can be used throughout the year at any temperature.

Selection of consumables and basic calculations

The construction of the floor in the bathhouse involves the use of construction and thermal insulation materials, waste pipes made of metal and plastic, galvanized fasteners.

What is the best material to make the floor from in the steam room and sink? Quantity and type Supplies depend on the type of floor structure and the method of its installation.

Calculations for a concrete floor

For installation work you need to prepare:

Fine sand for filling a layer 12 cm thick. Volume of material (O) = (3 × 3) × 0.12 cm = 1.08 cubic meters. m.
Expanded clay for backfilling before thermal insulation with a layer thickness of 30 cm. Volume of material (O) = (3 × 3) × 0.30 = 2.7 cubic meters. m.
Expanded polystyrene sheets extruded for thermal insulation. The thickness of the insulating layer is 10 cm. The number of sheets for a room of 9 square meters. m – 2.5 packs.
A mixture based on cement and sand (ready-made or homemade). The thickness of the screed is from 6 to 12 cm. The consumption of the dry mixture is on average 18 kg/sq.m. m. Concrete layer of 1 cm = (3 × 3) × 18 kg/sq. m = 162 kg. For a 6 cm layer: 162 × 7 = 1134 kg or 63 bags of ready-made mixture.
Reinforcement mesh for fixing a concrete layer measuring 5 × 5 cm.
Rolled roofing felt for waterproofing the sand cushion from the expanded clay layer.
Metal profile for beacons under screed. For a steam room with an area of 9 sq. m. 18 meters of profile will be required.
Plastic pipe for drainage up to 5 meters long, with a cross-section up to 3.2 cm, siphon and swivel elbow.

Calculations for wooden floors

As a working example, the calculation of materials for installing a wooden floor in a steam room with an area of 9 square meters is given. m.

To build a simple leaky floor, you will need:

A block for the subfloor measuring 3 × 3 or 4 × 4 cm along the length of the beam. The distance between the beams is 0.5 meters, the total amount of material is 30 meters.
Unplaned board for a base up to 25 cm wide and 2.5 cm thick. For one section you need: (300/25) × 0.5 = 6 meters. To design 5 floor sections: 5 × 6 = 30 meters.
Guide bar for creating a drain slope with a cross-section of 2 × 3 or 3 × 3 cm.
A block for fixing joists for a finished base with a section of 6 × 6 cm.
Rolled or sheet roofing felt for waterproofing. For the steam room you need 16 meters of material, taking into account allowances.
Rolled basalt wool 8 cm thick for thermal insulation.
Galvanized steel sheets up to 0.6 mm thick – 11 sq. m. material.
Polymer pipe, elbow and drain for installation in a drain hole. To organize proper drainage, the installation of the elbow with the connected pipe must be performed at a right angle.

Concrete floor installation technology

The arrangement of the floor begins with preparing the soil inside the foundation - clearing it of debris and dirt.

The layout of the monolithic base is as follows:

The soil is carefully compacted and leveled. The inner walls of the foundation are treated with bitumen in several layers.
At the preparatory stage, the sewer pipe is laid through the foundation. To do this, it is enough to make an inlet hole in the base and install a metal adapter for supplying a plastic pipe.
The drain pipe is brought to the place where the drain hole is provided. The end of the pipe is plugged to prevent clogging.
A sand cushion up to 12 cm high is poured onto the ground, moistened and compacted.
Next, you need to put roofing felt on the internal walls of the base with an overlap of 15 cm. Additionally, the joints are treated with bitumen-based mastic.
Expanded clay up to 35 cm thick is laid, leveled and compacted. There is 8 cm left to the edge of the base.
Expanded clay is covered with a film 200 microns thick, and the joints are taped with construction tape. Thermal insulation is installed on top of the waterproofing.
After the foundation is insulated, guides are installed for pouring concrete in increments of 55 to 95 cm. The beacons are laid on a mixture of cement and sand.
When installing guides, it is important to maintain the required slope for proper water drainage. In this case, the beacons are set strictly according to level.
At the bottom of the walls along the perimeter of the room they fix damper tape up to 12 cm high. After pouring and drying the concrete screed, the remaining tape can be removed.
The concrete is poured with the prepared mixture and left until completely dry.

Important! 5 days after pouring, the beacons are dismantled, and the existing voids are filled with the mixture. For the first 10 days, the floor is thoroughly moistened with water up to 3 times a day.

Laying technology for leaking wooden floors

A step-by-step guide to installing a leaking floor provides for step-by-step work: preparing the underground, installing joists and wooden flooring.

Preparation of the underground

In order for water entering the underground to be discharged into the ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the base - for this, the top layer of soil is cut off and a waterproofing cushion made of small crushed stone up to 26 cm thick is backfilled.

For soils with a low level of moisture absorption, soil removal is carried out at a slight angle, and wastewater is discharged into a 30-centimeter pit through a drain pipe. The soil is covered with clay and leveled.

Important! Before backfilling the pillows, supports are installed under wooden logs, and a foundation is erected for heating equipment.

Installation of support beams

How to install logs correctly? They are mounted on concrete supports equipped with a brick stand. The height of the lag is determined by the height of the pillars (column foundation) or strips (strip foundation).

The installation of the logs is carried out opposite the short wall of the building. To avoid deformation of the joists or their swelling, the supports are covered with a double layer of waterproofing made of roofing felt treated with hot bitumen.

To ensure natural ventilation when laying logs to the walls, a minimum technological gap of 4 cm should be observed.

Wood flooring

To lay the floor, use boards that are fixed perpendicular to the installed joists. In this case, it is necessary to maintain 5 mm gaps between individual floor elements and 2.5 cm between boards and walls. The wooden panel is fixed to the joists using metal nails.

Technology for laying leak-proof wooden floors

The installation of a wooden floor in a bathhouse involves the installation of support beams similar to the previous option, with the formation of an inclined surface for effective drainage of wastewater.

Installation of the floor in the bathhouse is carried out in the following order:

Organization of water intake system. The first stage of installing a non-leaky floor is the organization of a water intake measuring 45 × 45 cm, located between the supports and thermally insulated with a solution of clay or cement. The depth of the water intake is 35 cm. At a height of 3 cm from the bottom of the receiver, at a slight slope, a pipe is installed to discharge wastewater into drainage well or a hole.
Installation of subfloor. After installing the logs on the support posts, the subfloor is fixed - a sheet of cheap material, for example, a second-grade board. Hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier is laid on the boards in layers to protect against moisture.
Fixation of the finishing coating. The installed logs are covered with a finishing coating made of tongue-and-groove boards with a low moisture absorption coefficient. Along the perimeter of the room, a gap of 2 cm is maintained from the walls for natural ventilation. The boards are fixed with nails at an angle of 50 degrees. Finally, decorative plinth is installed.

Important! Cladding of wall surfaces is carried out on top installed baseboard to prevent condensation from collecting under the baseboard.

Effective protection of joists and floor coverings from rotting

To prevent the bathhouse floor from rotting, experts recommend treating it with heat-resistant water-based varnish. Such a coating can withstand heating temperatures of over 100 degrees, providing surfaces reliable protection from high humidity, hot steam and dirt.

The protective varnish is applied to the wooden base with a brush in several layers. Work is carried out in a well-ventilated room at an air temperature of 4 to 28 degrees.

If you are installing a wooden floor in a leaky bathhouse, then protective composition applied to the topcoat and support joists.

Laying floors in a bathhouse is a complex procedure that depends on design features building, its size and type of foundation. But, despite the technical difficulties, any owner of a private bathhouse can master the technology of laying floors with his own hands.