Insert plastic windows in a wooden house. Installing plastic windows in an old wooden house yourself. Plastic window insert

It is known that wooden windows in houses built from timber are rightfully considered the safest and practical solution, which favorably influences the indoor microclimate.

The fundamental thing in the presented case is that when it shrinks, the window system and walls behave uniformly. Their installation according to technology plays a decisive role here.

Features of installing windows in a wooden house

The assembly of windows in a timber building has certain features. As you know, wood shrinks. In houses made of chopped logs or during the first 5 years, shrinkage is about 10-13% of the height of the building, while shrinkage does not exceed 2%.

If there is warping of window structures, the formation of crown gaps in the walls or cracking of the glass unit, this indicates a violation of the technology during the installation process.

1. In houses made of chopped wood, rounded logs, planed or profiled timber, it is advisable to install the window support after the house has settled (not earlier than 1.5 years after construction).
2. Installing windows after the construction of a log house is not rational due to the lack of the ability to calculate wall shrinkage.
3. This indicator depends on the moisture content of the timber. In houses made of laminated veneer lumber, installation of windows is allowed immediately after
4. erection of walls and installation of the roof of the house.
5. Installation of windows must be carried out exclusively through sliding connections - support beams and casing. Tying window blocks and frame structures to logs or beams is strictly prohibited. Tight fastening during drying leads to a violation of the integrity of window modules and the walls of the building. In fact, the window system must balance separately in relation to the wall. At the top above window boxes

it is necessary to provide a shrinkage reserve - gaps of 6-7 cm.

Miscalculations of spare spaces can lead to poor closing of windows or roof gaps in walls.

Wooden window installation diagram Preparing the window opening Before installing the box, you should prepare the window opening. without cracks, depressions, distortions and other defects. Construction debris, dirt, dust and deposits must be removed from all surfaces.

In order to avoid distortions in the future, it is necessary to take accurate measurements of the external, internal and lateral sides of the opening.

In the case where the skew of the opening is significant and it is not possible to correct it, it is recommended to expand the window parameters in such a way that highest level the external hole exceeded the width by 2.5-4 cm and the height by 1-2 cm.

Extension can be achieved by installing an additional profile on the window. This will prevent the appearance of gaps between the box and the hole in areas of maximum distortion.

In addition to the option of expanding the size of the opening to correct the distortion, there is such an option as increasing the parameters window frame.

Casing

A special design that is wooden box without a bottom crossbar, the purpose of which is to securely fasten the window and maintain the shape of the window frame, regardless of the degree of shrinkage of the house, called casing or frame.

There are several types of this design:

1. One piece. It is made from specially processed solid material.
2. Adhesive. The individual components are made from type-setting boards, connected by means of microgrooves and glue. All burrs and small knots are removed.
3. Mixed. Part of the casing is made solid, and the other is made using glue. Upon completion of installation, the pigtail is varnished. This type Suitable for use on large window sills.

The window frame is made according to the size of each window. Moreover, if it is planned internal lining, then a sample can be made for it. When facing on both sides, sampling is not performed.

Assembly of the casing can begin after preparing the window opening.

Its production is carried out as follows:

1. Grooves are machined in the base, which is adjacent to the window opening. A beam of the same size is inserted into them, acting as the side of the casing.
2. First, place the beam at the bottom of the opening, which will prevent displacement of the side elements.
3. A compactor is placed under the timber from linen tow.
4. Sealing material is placed in the recesses and install side boards.
5. The final stage is fastening the top board of the structure.
6. A space is left on top of the jamb for the wood to dry out and filled with sealant. This way, during the process of shrinking the logs, the load on the window opening will not be affected.

Window installation

Window installation is carried out in the following sequence:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on the lower part of the opening. and sealing material.
2. Install the window frame and fix it it with the help of linings or wedges made of wood.
3. Using a building level or plumb line, adjust the horizontal and vertical lines. In this case, you need to pay attention to the actual horizontal and vertical, and not to the sides of the window opening.
4. On each side of the opening, in increments of 50 cm, drill holes.
5. Using self-tapping screws fix the box.
6. Insulate the space between the frame and the wall sealing material.
7. Next, the frame is mounted. It is installed in the grooves of the box and secured to it with screws.
8. Window blocks are installed on the frame using hinges(severable and inseparable). The difference between them is the possibility of removing the hinge. Detachable ones are convenient in areas where there is no possibility of raising the window transom. Smooth fastening of the hinges facilitates even hanging of window transoms. They are fastened using screws.
9. The sash is locked using a locking element or latch. After checking the opening and closing of the transom, you should secure the frame using nails.
10. Next we move on to installing window sills. They are mounted from the inside so that the side edges extend into the walls by 4.5-5 cm on both sides.
11. Immediately before installation, using lime-gypsum mixture , align the lower part of the window opening.
12. The window sill is fixed using wedges. After installation thermal insulation material it is finally fixed.
13. Installation of drip linings is carried out from the outside of the opening– the entire width of the frame’s recess into the base.
14. The gaps between the casing of the base and frame, as well as the top and sides of the window, are covered with platband. It is advisable to use the same type of wood from which the house is built as platbands.
15. All parts of the casing are connected to each other. To do this, use spikes, nails or an adhesive solution.
16. Placement marking is carried out in advance fastening elements (step is 10-12 cm).
17. So that during the process of attaching the platbands they do not move, the structure can be placed on glue.
18. The final stage is fixing the platbands with nails or self-tapping screws, and closing the gaps between the base and platbands with sealing material.

1. For the manufacture of casing, wood with a moisture content of at least 10% is used., otherwise cracks will form inside the structure over time.
2. When making a joint, it is strictly prohibited use metal fasteners.
3. Construction foam should not be used as a sealing material when assembling the casing. In this case, the wood is bonded, which prevents its natural drying.
4. When installing windows, it is important to make the holes for them correctly. Optimal distance from the window sill to the floor is 85-90 cm.
5. Experts do not recommend installing windows without installing frames, even if the house was built many years ago and the frame is completely dry.
6. This is due to the fact that throughout its entire lifespan the tree has a tendency to dry out. For greater efficiency and heat retention, wooden windows
7. should be installed closer to the outside of the window opening. It is necessary to choose hard wood as a material for the window sill.
8. A window sill made of laminated wood has the longest service life; a window sill made of solid wood has the shortest service life (as a rule, the product is subject to warping). The angles of the window opening should be 90 degrees, and the diagonals should not differ by more than 10 mm. If the hole in the base exceeds permissible value , required large quantity
9. sealing material. If you do not ensure that the corners are even, the box may warp.

It is important to correctly calculate the seating depth of the window in the opening so that the dew point isoline, equal to 10 degrees, passes in its inner part.

Then there will be no condensation on the inside of the window.

Installing windows yourself will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything correctly, otherwise the savings will be questionable. Wooden houses have their own characteristics that you should be aware of.

• • Possible problems if windows are installed incorrectly

• • It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

• • lack of casing - a house made of timber “walks” during shrinkage and begins to put pressure on the window frames;

• • there is too much gap between the frame and the wall - if you simply foam such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
  • absence external protection installation gap - when foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, it is better to close the gap from the outside with PSUL tape, which protects the foam from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

• • lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in insulating properties;

• • placing a window in a “cold zone” causes freezing of slopes and the formation of condensation from inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save money and order window installation. For an experienced builder, DIY installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers don't talk about

Tightness and high sound insulation plastic double glazed windows presented as a definite advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential premises is constantly increasing, and thanks to the leak-proof wooden frames, a constant influx is ensured fresh air. Of course, too large gaps can make the house very cold, so Euro-windows have long become a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to do forced ventilation. But in the absence ventilation holes This can be problematic - you will have to redo a lot.

It is for such cases that window supply valves were invented - special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and screw the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners wooden houses– companies that install plastic windows often do not guarantee their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So, even if all installation rules are followed, you may find that after a few years the windows no longer open. But you won’t be able to sharpen plastic with a file.

Making casing (plugs)

The first thing the installation of windows begins with is the installation of the casing. But is it always necessary and how to do it correctly?

When can you do without a joint?

A new wooden house made of logs or beams will shrink in any case. And no one has canceled seasonal soil heaving. In this case, the casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - edged board 50 mm thick and edged timber 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in frame house There is no need to make a frame - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. Some builders also do not install a casing in a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind, it’s better to do it in your home; this process is not that complicated.

How to make casing correctly

The last option is the most labor-intensive, but also the most reliable. If you have any doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to casing it into an embedded block. For this:

• • IN window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical grooves measuring 5x5 cm are selected. This can be done with either a chainsaw or a hand-held circular saw, a chisel and an ax. The second option is preferable if your hand is not equipped for precise chainsaw work.

• • An edged board is placed on top of the embedded block and secured flush with self-tapping screws - two at the top and bottom. To do this, pre-drill a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the screw head.
  • If the “tenon-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the pre-cut T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed with self-tapping screws.
  • Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the 5 cm thick top laid on them is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrinkage gap.
  • The apex should fit into the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle.
  • The insulation is placed in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside - windproof membrane. Under no circumstances should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-proof films - accumulated condensation will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how casing is done “into the deck”:

When the frame is ready, you can proceed directly to installing double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows itself is not very complicated, but requires strict adherence to technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense and the frame will warp.

Checking the delivered glass unit

Under no circumstances should this moment be neglected! First, the dimensions of the window opening and glass unit are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a support profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap at the top will be 1 cm. The clover must be included in the kit, and under You need to leave room for it when designing the window. It is needed so that a window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, you must also check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” because windows are shipped without them. But dowels are special fasteners that you need to select yourself.

Their length should be such that when fully screwed in, they only reach the middle of the casing board. And this is taking into account the gap. If you screw the dowel into the wall wooden house, the window will begin to deform regardless of the presence of the frame.

Often they don’t pay attention to small elements - decorative overlays fittings and drainage holes. They will also have to be counted. But the window sill and sill need to be ordered - if you forget to specify their necessity, you may find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass themselves - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because, thanks to their different sizes, you can align the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the required thickness under the corners and posts.

Disassembly and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished glass unit is delivered to assembled form. But to install it, you will have to disassemble everything down to the frame. For this:

• • V closed use a special key to remove the upper pins holding the swinging sash;
  • the window handle is inserted, the sash is opened and removed from the lower fastenings;
  • the glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and the double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and an ordinary knife;
  • you need to remember or mark the right and left glazing beads;
  • the protective film is removed from the outside - under the influence of the sun it will not come off in a few months;
  • external elements are installed - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
  • holes are drilled for the dowels - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

Once the preliminary preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to installation.

Installation of frame and assembly of plastic windows

First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, with temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it’s much easier to do everything with an assistant - he simply holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Installing the frame also requires following the correct sequence:

1. 1. The bottom edge is leveled - laser level in this regard it is more convenient. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack to achieve a perfectly level position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
   2. Side spacers are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally “falls out” of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

1. 1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that it needs to be installed in a “warm” zone - for wooden walls without external insulation it's clearly in the middle.
   2. Once the frame is level, you can begin attaching it, starting with the side posts. First, holes are drilled in the wood through those already made in the frame, and then dowels are attached. First the top and bottom, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
   3. Once the frame is fixed, the flashing is attached to the outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The ebb is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed with two screws along the edges, and the gap under it is filled polyurethane foam.

1. 1. Decorative overlays are placed on the sash fastening elements. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

1. 1. Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

1. 1. The installation seam is foamed around the perimeter.
   2. A window sill is being installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill beam, and wedges are placed under it to level it. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are coated with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. The window sill is placed again, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

1. In some cases, they do the opposite - first install the window sill, check it for level and screw it to the casing with dowels. And only then they put a double-glazed window on top of it. In this case, there is no need to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the window sill material must withstand the action external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting wooden element.

Once the polyurethane foam has hardened, you can begin finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option that even girls can handle is to close them plastic panels. For this you will need:

• L-shaped or starting profile– it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
• decorative plastic corner– it covers the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
• herself plastic lining for slopes.

And you don’t even need to foam anything. But in order to provide the necessary protection for the assembly seam and good insulation, you should lay insulation between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. On the outside, the seam is covered with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And in order for the windows to delight you with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being pulled away by birds. You don’t need to restrain your soul’s impulses if you want to start doing something. with my own hands. And everything will definitely work out!

Self-installation of a window structure allows you to save money, but incorrect work only increases costs in the future. For houses made of wood, there is special technology installation of PVC windows.

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC structures

Installation requires a person to have special skills and knowledge; if they do not have those, then it is better to study the topic in detail. The best system fixation is a tenon-groove, it is this that allows you to avoid deformation when the wood shrinks, which has a Negative influence on operational properties window metal-plastic construction. New buildings are more susceptible to shrinkage, but even in houses built a long time ago, shrinkage can occur.

Professionals note that a wooden house sags by an average of 20 mm per year. It is not so easy to determine this with the naked eye, but by looking at the window design it is very easy.

It is rare, but it happens that for several years deformation does not occur, and then under the influence of the environment the distortion becomes visible. To prevent this from happening in wooden house, before installing the window, it is necessary to make a casing. This is a very complex and painstaking process, but it cannot be excluded. If you carry out the installation, as in brick house, you will need constant adjustment of the fittings in the window structure. U plastic structures There are a lot of advantages, which is why they are in great demand in the market. Among them it is worth highlighting the following:

• low operating costs, since such a window does not need to be painted or treated against insects;
• durability of the material, which is resistant to temperature changes environment, it is not affected by ultraviolet radiation, does not corrode and does not rot;
• good frame rigidity;
• fire safety;
• no cracking or warping.

All these advantages make the window design suitable for all regions of our country. PVC copes well with the tasks set both in the south and in the north. But, like any material, polyvinyl chloride has disadvantages, since it is far from ideal. Among them are the following:

• the inability to maintain the required level of humidity in the house, since such structures are completely sealed;
• such a window cannot be repaired if the surface is damaged;
• there is always a lot of dust on plastic, since it attracts it with static electricity;
• the material has a high coefficient of thermal expansion, so the places where the plastic is adjacent to the wall are often damaged;
• Wood has better sound and heat insulation than plastic.

Important nuances

Installing plastic structures in a wooden house has its own characteristics. It doesn’t matter whether such windows are installed in a timber or log house, the technology must be strictly followed. When installing a plastic window, it is worth remembering that the shrinkage of the wood causes additional pressure on the frame. This is one of the reasons why casing cannot be done without.

It is not always worth using polyurethane foam in the space between the top strip of the window and the wall, since it becomes quite rigid when it dries and also creates unnecessary pressure on the structure. In this case, all the benefits of casing are nullified.

If you do not take into account the gap between the frame and the wall, having calculated the incorrect dimensions of the window, you will have to increase the opening, since it will not be installed without negative consequences a window that is too large will not work. After foaming the gaps from the outside, it is better to install PSUL tape; it will not only protect against ultraviolet rays, but also from moisture.

Polyurethane foam, for all its advantages, quickly degrades and loses its properties if it is not protected. Inside a timber dacha, this must be done using a vapor barrier, and waterproofing will help on the outside. Most window distortions occur when it is not installed level. Fittings in this design fail twice as quickly and require replacement.

We must not forget about the cold zone, in which the window begins to freeze from the side of the slopes, and condensation appears inside.

Manufacturers emphasize the tightness of PVC structures and excellent noise insulation as one of the main advantages of windows of this type. In fact wooden frame has natural ventilation, due to which the level of humidity in the room does not increase; the same cannot be said about PVC windows.

During their installation, in order to eliminate problems with condensation in the future, you need to install ventilation yourself, and if there are no special holes, you will have to try hard.

The situation is greatly simplified by supply valves, which are special profiles installed on a plastic window.

I can't help but be pleased with the ease of installation. The user will need to remove the seal already present in the window structure and place the valve on the sash. It can be easily secured with self-tapping screws, but you will need to think through the exhaust hole, otherwise the system will be of no use.

No one will be happy that companies that install plastic structures in a wooden house do not guarantee their work, since they cannot fully predict the behavior of PVC. Even if you comply with all norms and requirements, there is no guarantee that after several years of operation the window will not stop working.

Manufacturing of casing

Only the casing protects the window structure in the log house from distortions, bends and other types of deformations. The casing boards must be dry and strong, otherwise they will not be able to complete the task. A board whose thickness cannot be less than 5 cm or a beam 15x10 cm is suitable for this. The thickness of the element is always equal to the thickness of the wall.

The rules for building an old wooden house do not change. Things are completely different with frame buildings because they do not shrink. Such houses are already created with openings for windows and doors; they have the necessary rigidity for installation. A log house that has stood for more than ten years also does not shrink.

Casing can be carried out different ways, such as:

• spike-monolith;
• embedded timber;
• into the deck.

The most reliable of the three options is the last one, but it is also considered the most labor-intensive. Those who do not have enough skills and abilities are recommended to do casing using the second method. It is necessary to make grooves in the middle of the window opening, vertical to each other with dimensions of 5x5 cm. You can use circular saw, chainsaw, ax and even a chisel.

Before driving the timber into the groove, it must be wrapped in linen. The seal will be located between the wall and the element, but it should extend slightly onto the window opening.

An edged board is placed on the block and secured with self-tapping screws at the top and bottom. Two bolts are enough in each case. Before doing this, it is worth drilling a recess slightly larger than the diameter of the cap. If a monolith tenon is used, the T-shaped beam is cut out in advance and then installed in the existing groove, after which it is secured with self-tapping screws to ensure reliable fastening.

Elements of the window structure, located vertically, should be at a distance of 8 cm from the top of the window opening. That is, a five-centimeter beam laid on the upper jamb should be at a distance of 3 cm from the wall. It is this distance that is taken as the shrinkage gap.

Upper bar The windows should not hang in the grooves, they should only go in with force. The final fastening is made with self-tapping screws, which are driven in at an angle. The final work at this stage can be considered the installation of insulation. The gap is closed with polyurethane foam, which can be laid in one or several steps. If it is necessary to apply the composition twice, then you should wait ten minutes until the first layer hardens. In hot weather, the foam must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

The material quickly deteriorates when exposed to the sun and other weather conditions, therefore, it is covered with a vapor barrier on the inside, and a windproof membrane is used on the outside.

It is prohibited to use a vapor barrier on both sides, since then moisture will accumulate under it, and this will contribute to the formation of mold.

Installation

You can install a window structure with your own hands, insert the structure into a box, install a window sill, make slopes, but it is better to first study the technology so as not to spoil everything. The main tools you will need are the following:

• level;
• polyurethane foam;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• spray;
• key to adjust windows;
• chisel;
• bolts;
• spacer wedges.

It's easier to install windows with a partner, since not everything can be done on your own. It is worth understanding that a double-glazed window has an impressive weight and it is impossible to hold it while carrying out work alone. Before installation, it is better to check the measurements taken to determine the presence of gaps. There should be 5 cm left for foaming on top, 3 cm on the sides, and 4 cm at the place where the window sill is installed.

Improper installation in a wooden village house will cause many problems in the future.

Before installation, be sure to purchase hardware store special fasteners, which are metal plates with holes made. Professionals advise using them, stipulating this requirement by the fact that the use of self-tapping screws that penetrate through the frame completely deprives it of its tightness, and accordingly reduces the level of thermal insulation.

The window is installed only by level and nothing else; distortions threaten to cause quick damage plastic product and breakdown of fittings. Be sure to remove the sashes from the window, thereby reducing the weight of the frame at the time of work. The insert must be positioned evenly and attached only to elements dictated by the standard. When foaming the gaps, you can prevent them from moving by placing bars under the frame, and then removing them.

It is important to choose the correct location of the screws; it is strictly forbidden to screw them in at the location of the ridge.

Okosyachka

The pigtail is assembled after preparing the window opening. Cut out from a 15x4 cm board top part and create grooves through which it will be attached to the ridge. This part of the opening is located at the top; it must be flat and free of kinks, otherwise difficulties will arise later with the installation of the plastic structure.

The protrusion, which plays the role of a ridge, is covered with rolled tow, and then a carriage is put on - a prepared wooden element with a cut groove. This is done in order to improve thermal insulation and get rid of squeaking. The upper part of the pigtail must be screwed to this element with self-tapping screws, but so as not to affect the ridge.

Double-glazed window

Double-glazed windows are delivered to the installation site assembled; before installation they must be disassembled, this is the only way to reduce the weight of the structure. Using a special key, it is necessary to remove the upper pins that hold the sash open.

Then the handle is turned and when open, the sash is easily removed from the lower fastening, but it is worth remembering that this is the heaviest part of the structure.

To knock out the glazing beads and remove the glass unit, you need to use a spatula or a hammer and a knife. Carefully moving the element away, you should simply remove it from the frame. The short sides can be slightly pryed from the corner and pulled.

Experts advise immediately removing the window structure from the outside protective film until it sticks to the surface, reacting with the plastic under the influence of ultraviolet light. Then it will be almost impossible to tear it off. It is necessary to drill holes for the dowels, which should be located at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corner, and no more than 70 cm from each other.

Plastic windows allow you to reduce heating costs, since the sealed design prevents the formation of drafts. It is impossible not to note the aesthetic appeal of such products and the cost savings on maintenance. But plastic windows will meet the requirements only if the installation was carried out correctly.

Self-installation of PVC structures in a wooden house has some difficulties, which is why it should be done in accordance with the instructions of specialists. The time of year does not affect the installation process in any way. Availability modern technologies allows work to be carried out with equal success in summer and winter when a polyurethane frost-resistant sealant is used.

Many users are unhappy with the accumulation of condensation and say that moisture constantly accumulates on the inside. This can be avoided by simply ventilating the room or installing high-quality exhaust devices ventilation system. In cold weather, you can immediately determine the presence of poor sealing; the condensation that appears will indicate places where it is necessary to foam more.

If the installation is carried out by workers, you should make sure that the installation of plastic windows is carried out according to established standards, then in the future you will not have to face unpleasant surprises. A professional installer will not work in sub-zero temperatures.

Shrinkage is a natural and inevitable process of all wooden buildings. In this regard, installation of plastic windows in log houses different from the standard installation. The highest percentage of wood drying out was observed in the first two years after the completion of the log house. The height of the walls, as a rule, is reduced to 1.5 cm per meter of masonry. How to insert a plastic window in a wooden house? What devices are needed to achieve this goal? The answers to these and many other questions are presented in this article.

Casing

The main stage of installing double-glazed windows in a wooden house is fixing the frame in the window opening. The casing ensures that windows are independent from load-bearing walls structures. In other words, when the frame shrinks, the window structure remains “intact” and is not subject to deformation vibrations. The window frame takes on all shrinkage loads and strengthens the walls of the building in the area of ​​the opening.

The casing is a box made of thick boards. Install it in the opening, and then perform PVC installation designs. The box is held in place by grooves located in the side posts. It is unacceptable to use any fastening elements, including polyurethane foam. A compensating gap is left above the structure itself, designed to maximum value shrinkage of logs.

There are several options for installing the pigtail:

• cutting a groove in a log and laying it in wooden block. Self-tapping screws (embedded block) are screwed into the last of these elements through the side posts;
• sawing out a tenon at the end of the opening log and cutting a groove in the side posts of the box (the “into the deck” method);
• the location of the tenon is on the side posts of the structure, the groove is at the end of the opening logs.

Preparing window openings

It is quite possible to install high-quality plastic windows in an old wooden house with your own hands. The main installation rules are to follow the sequence of actions and take into account the construction features.

First, measure the distance of the window from the base of the floor. The most optimal parameter is 80-90 cm. Ideally, the window sill is installed higher desk, the standard height of which is 80 cm. The upper and lower boundaries of the window opening are marked using professional tool– water level. Its height should be 13 cm higher than the same parameter of the inserted plastic window, and its width should be 12-14 cm. Plus, 1.5 cm is left on each side for sealing with polyurethane foam.

The next stage is preparing the window opening (measurements, installation). Using a building level, markings are made for cutting it. Maximum accuracy in measurements and installation of the casing itself is especially important. The quality of the work will depend on this installation work. After the opening is ready, a tenon is cut out at the ends of the logs on the sides of the structure. The lower and side parts of the rough window are sheathed with jute.

A casing is made from well-dried wooden blocks, the installation of which is carried out starting from the window sill. The structural elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, and the joining areas are treated with sealant. The small gap in the socket is filled with tow.

Installation of PVC windows

The finished window is installed, either perfectly aligned leading edge, or slightly deepening it inside the house. Fix the frame to the previously fixed structure using self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes for them. You can install double-glazed windows into a wooden house (not made of timber), taking into account all the details. We are talking not only about the accuracy of markings and the choice of high-quality material for casing, but also about the correct selection of fasteners for fixing the window. It is not recommended to use self-tapping screws whose length exceeds 12 cm. Such fasteners will easily pass through the frame and violate the integrity of the log building, which is unacceptable according to the “construction” rules.

External seam waterproofing can be done different ways: vapor-permeable or self-expanding sealing tape, one-component acrylic sealant. They will protect the polyurethane foam from moisture and direct sunlight. On the inside, the seam is covered with vapor barrier tape. Glue it until foaming to the end part of the frame with a thin strip. After the seam is treated with polyurethane foam, the protective paper from the adhesive strip is removed and glued to the casing. The window sill is installed and the starting profile is screwed to the edge of the frame before the sealing mass hardens.

Installation of plastic windows in an old wooden house can be carried out according to standard instructions for such work. However, old houses have one feature that can be considered a big advantage over newly built houses - an old house no longer shrinks. In this case, there is no need for large gaps that are left for shrinkage of new houses.

Sequence of work:

• Preparatory stage - dismantling the old window, adjusting the size of the opening for the new window;
• Manufacturing of casing
• Window installation

Preparatory work

If the house is old, then most likely the old windows were made of wood. Such windows are dismantled using a crowbar. If necessary, the old window is sawn. The doorway is completely cleared and inspected to determine the condition of the logs.

Important! If the house is old, then when the windows were first installed, most likely, the window opening was not treated with antiseptic impregnations, which protect the wood from rot and bugs.

Old casing in doorway usually not suitable for a new window - it is either damaged or does not correspond to the size of a new window of the desired size - about 2 cm are left between the window frame and the casing on each side. If you use old casing, the window may turn out to be too small. Therefore, the old opening is expanded taking into account the size of the new plastic window.

New opening dimensions:

• Width - 220 mm is added to the width of the plastic window, which takes into account the thickness of the new casing beams (2 * 100 mm), the gaps between the frame and casing are 20 mm on each side, 15 mm on each side for jute insulation. The allowance is reduced by 50 mm due to the insertion of the tenons of the side openings of the window into the casing beams;
• Height - 245 mm is added to the height of the window for installation gaps under the frame and above the window frame, the thickness of the casing beams is taken into account. For an old house, they do not make a gap for shrinkage above the top beam of the casing.

Attention! If there are even slight doubts about the possibility of shrinkage of the house, then it is better to leave a small gap of about 45 mm above the upper beam of the casing to compensate for possible shrinkage.

Manufacturing of casing

The casing must be installed even if the house no longer shrinks at all. The casing is needed to fix the linear dimensions of the opening.

Attention! For casing, use only well-dried wood that will not shrink.

Tenons are cut out at the end of the logs on the side parts of the window opening, and recesses are cut out in the side beams of the casing, the size of which exactly matches the size of the tenon.

After trying on the beams, the opening is treated with an antiseptic impregnation and before laying the casing beams, a jute seal is secured with a stapler.

The casing beam is laid on the lower part of the opening with a sealant, then on the upper part of the opening. The side casing bars are installed last.

Before installing the side bars, sealant is applied to the joint. All gaps that were left above and below the casing are sealed with tow.