Types of reducers for gas cylinders. Types, device and adjustment of the gas reducer. How to choose a household propane reducer

Why do you need a gas cylinder reducer? The easiest way to answer this question is by comparing household reducer for a gas cylinder with a voltage regulator. For a prudent owner, the use of an electric stabilizer has long become the norm. The gas reducer for the cylinder is used for exactly the same purpose - to stabilize the pressure coming from the gas cylinder to our household appliances.

Reducing the gas pressure to operating parameters that ensure stable operation of the equipment- this is the main task that performs balloon reducing device.The inlet pressure characteristics are importance for household appliances, where blue fuel serves as an energy source.

It would seem that after we figured out why we need a balloon reducer for propane and butane, we can finish the article, say goodbye to readers, and submit the work for publication. However, not everything is so simple, and it turns out that the gas reducer performs its work on absolutely two different principles actions and is divided into two types of devices.

How does a cylinder reducer work:

1 Direct reducer

The usual simple gas pressure reducing apparatus consists of two chambers with an area of ​​high and low pressure separated by a rubber membrane. In addition, the “reducer” is equipped with an inlet and outlet fitting. Modern appliances designed to screw directly into the gearbox. Increasingly, you can find a gas reducer with a third fitting designed for mounting the monomer.

After gas is supplied through the hose and then through the fitting, it enters the chamber. The generated gas pressure tends to open the valve. FROM reverse side a locking spring presses on the valve, returning it back to a special seat, commonly called a “saddle”. Returning to its place, the valve prevents the uncontrolled flow of high-pressure gas from the cylinder.

Membrane

The second acting force inside the reducer is a rubber membrane that separates the device into a high and low pressure area. The membrane acts as an “assistant” to high pressure and, in turn, tends to lift the valve from the seat, opening the passage. Thus, the membrane is between two opposing forces. One surface is pressed by a pressure spring (do not confuse with a valve return spring), which wants to open the valve, on the other hand, the gas that has already passed into the low pressure zone presses on it.

The pressure spring has a manual adjustment of the pressing force on the valve. We advise you to buy a gas reducer with a seat for a pressure gauge, so it will be easier for you to adjust the spring pressure to the desired output pressure.

As the gas exits the reducer to the source of consumption, the pressure in the chamber of the working space decreases, allowing the pressure spring to straighten. She then starts to push valve from the seat, again allowing the device to fill with gas. Accordingly, the pressure creeps up, pressing on the membrane, reducing the size of the pressure spring. The valve moves back into the seat narrowing the gap, reducinggas filling reducer. The process is then repeated until the pressure equalizes to the set value.

It should be recognized that gearboxes for gas cylinders direct type due to the complex design, are not in high demand, reverse type gearboxes are much more widespread, by the way, they are considered devices with a high degree security.

2 Reverse gear

The operation of the device consists in the opposite action described above. Liquefied blue fuel is fed into the chamber where high pressure is created. Bottled gas builds up and prevents the valve from opening. To ensure the supply of gas to household appliance, it is required to turn the adjuster in the direction of the right-hand thread.

On the reverse side of the regulator knob is a long screw, which, by twisting, presses on the pressure spring. By contracting, it begins to bend the elastic membrane to the upper position. Thus, the transfer disk, through the rod, exerts pressure on the return spring. The valve starts to move, begins to open slightly, increasing the gap . Blue fuel rushes into the gap and fillsworking chamber with low pressure.

In the working chamber, in the gas hose and in the cylinder, the pressure begins to increase. Under the action of pressure, the membrane is straightened, and a constantly compressing spring assists it in this. As a result of mechanical interactions, the transfer disc is lowered, weakening the return spring, which tends to return the valve to its seat. By closing the gap, naturally, the flow of gas from the cylinder into the working chamber is limited. Further, with a decrease in pressure in the bellows liner, the reverse process starts.

In a word, as a result of checks and balances, the swing can be balanced and the gas reducer automatically maintains a balanced pressure, without sudden jumps and drops.

Types of gas reducers

From the school course, the concept of non-combustible - inert gas emerges in the mind. This vast group includes nitrogen, argon, helium, neon, etc. they do not support combustion and do not burn. Found widely used as a protective gas in welding work. On the other hand, there are combustible gases (butane, hydrogen, methane, propane, propylene, etc.), which either liquefy or compress their cylinders with subsequent movement. So, in order to prevent confusion, engineers at the production stage suggested cutting a versatile thread.

Thus, a gas reducer intended for use in a group of combustible gases is made with a left-hand thread. The opposite thread turning to the right provides a gas reducer for inert gases. Among other things, manufacturers use color staining, which contributes to a brighter selection.

Before you buy a gas reducer for a cylinder, we advise you to pay attention to the throughput of the device. The optimal solution will buy a 2nd generation gas reducer. Before making a purchase, you must make sure that the selected model satisfies the gas flow parameters sufficient for the consuming device.

Application

The gas reducer is widely distributed in the home and private sector. They are operated on all types of gas, are used in a wide variety of industries. The gas reducer can be found in agriculture, in the construction complex, in medical institutions, and simply in a country cottage.

For example, an oxygen reducer is used both in welding work and in the provision of medical care. As for acetylene gas reducers, you can find them in any locksmith shop.

Propane reducers are indispensable during construction work, they cannot be dispensed with in activities related to the laying of roofing and bituminous materials. A gas reducer for a propane cylinder has become not a luxury, but a necessity; with its help, millions of housewives regulate the pressure coming from cylinders to gas stoves. propane reducer often has a funny name, and if you ask in a store if you can buy a frog gearbox for a gas cylinder, then do not hesitate, the seller will perfectly understand your request.

Reducer for gas cylinder

Since we are choosing a gearbox for a gas cylinder, we consider it necessary to touch on the topic of the container itself. The technological process and the widespread introduction of new innovative materials are bearing fruit. On the market, you can increasingly find new composite cylinders that have replaced the old generation. Modern models, unlike outdated predecessors, have less weight and offer a greater level of security. The latest technology manufacturing undergo multi-level testing, at the test sites the composite cylinder is subjected to an explosion, but even after such tests you will not find small fragments.

Composite cylinders are not subject to internal corrosion, light, comfortable. However, on their own, they do not know how to carry out a uniform supply of gas. A refilled cylinder, of course, produces more powerful pressure than a half-empty one. The gas regulator will come to the rescue, its task is to regulate the pressure at the outlet of the composite cylinder and maintain it at the required level throughout the entire period of use.

good joint work with composite cylinders, show gas reducers,with European certification. Let's highlight one of these devices: the A300i-A310i IGT household gas reducer. To the positives include the following product features:

  • the presence of a nut that can be tightened by hand;
  • increased up to 10 years service life of the control membrane;
  • the design ensures maximum sealing of the connecting elements;
  • the gas hose on the fitting without thread is clamped with a clamp.

Despite the fact that the importance of the device can hardly be overestimated in creating conditions for the safe operation of a stove or other device, household gas cylinder reducers are usually sold at an acceptable cost. Despite the fact that the price rarely exceeds 300-400 rubles, these devices can protect not only your homes, but also your life from dangerous situations.

The choice of a gas reducing apparatus is not a complicated process, but you should know and take into account such details as:

  • The name of the gas passing through the device;
  • Characteristics of the cylinder;
  • Dimensions, type;
  • Required flow and outlet pressure;
  • Connection method.

Gas reducers for a gas cylinder, price and types

Let's try to choose a gearbox for gas cylinders, from those popular types that are most in demand among consumers. Let's take a look at the market for gas appliances and clarify what the price of a gas reducer for a cylinder was at the end of 2017.

Household gas reducer RDSG for propane stabilization

The leading position in the market, and even in the consumer's country house, is occupied by the RDSG-1-1.2 "Frog" device with a threaded mount. Not inferior in popularity to the RDSG-2 Baltika gearbox equipped with a threadless connection. Both leaders represent the simplest construction. As a result, they can offer the lowest possible cost.
Passport characteristics:
- inlet pressure from 0.7 to 15.7 Bar;
- outlet pressure lies in the adjustment range from 30 to 32 mBar;
- device weight 310 g;
- admissible operation in the range from -30 to +45 ±3 °C;
- gas throughput characteristic - 1.2 m3/hour.
You can buy a gearbox rdsg 2-1.2 Baltika or rdsg 1-1.2 Frog up to 350 rubles.

Inlet pressure outlet pressure gas throughput m3/h Weight gr. Price, rub.
Reducer M714 0 – 20 bar 30 mbar 0,5 250 up to 500
Reducer N240 20 – 60 bar 18 mbar 0,5 400 before 2000
Reducer BPO-5 2.5 MPa 0.3 MPa 5 700 up to 1000
Reducer BKO-25 20 MPa 0.8 MPa 25 1200 up to 1200
Reducer BKO-50 20 MPa 1.25 MPa 50 1450 up to 1500
Reducer BVO-80 20 MPa 1.25 MPa 80 2100 before 1700
Reducer RKZ-250 20 MPa 1.6 MPa 250 6700 up to 17 000
Reducer RKZ-500 20 MPa 1.6 MPa 500 8300 up to 23 000

It remains to be added that the gas reducer is not a universal device. Each model can only run on one specific gas fuel. Before buying, carefully check the documents and passport data. Each reducer has its own purpose and some of them are designed for propane, others for methane, others for argon, and so on. They are not interchangeable, so be careful.

Compliance with simple safety rules will protect your property, health and ensure a steady supply of gas from the cylinder to your device. Due to the low price for household appliances, we advise you to give preference to trusted manufacturers with a reputation as a reliable supplier.

Do not connect your device “directly”, the results of such a connection will most likely turn out to be an unexpected problem for you. Pay special attention to cylinders containing compressed gas (it is pumped under a pressure of 250 bar). The price for the "Frog" is not at all expensive so that you can save on this. It is much more prudent to acquire it than to spend money on eliminating the consequences of the disaster.

We offer a video review of the device:

ATTENTION! This material is about connecting bottled gas in the country with your own hands cannot be a reference or methodological material, as it may contain errors and violations of existing norms. Please contact the gas service or certified professionals for any advice on connecting bottled gas to your home.

Yes, I'm serious: liquefied bottled gas is a serious and dangerous thing - check everything with specialized specialists several times before connecting bottled gas in your home. The gas becomes dangerous when it mixes with air and accumulates in any enclosed space. That's why everything existing norms laying gas pipelines provide for open laying of pipes for gas at a height so that the gas has time to disperse by the wind before it reaches the ground (gas is heavier than air). Gas pipes must be solid or welded - and must withstand fire in case of fire. Therefore, it is unacceptable to use for piping gas to the house plastic pipes or metal-plastic. The ideal pipe for gas is a bellows (corrugated) stainless steel pipe. Gas cylinders must be certified in the gas service, without corrosion and damage. The safest type of steel cylinder is with a valve instead of a valve. There are also explosion-proof fiberglass cylinders made in Norway or Sweden (there are also domestic ones - Nizhny Novgorod). Such gas cylinders release gas when heated, melt in a fire and do not explode.

Let's see how we connected bottled gas in a country house. I repeat once again: do not copy what has been done: the work on connecting bottled gas in the country house was performed by a non-professional at your own peril and risk, with possible violations and errors. To connect your home, contact the gas service.

Rules for laying external and internal gas pipelines, installation of individual gas cylinder installations for residential buildings regulated by the updated (updated) SNiP 42-01-2002 in the form of a set of rules SP 62.13330.2011* "Gas distribution systems". So, let's see what are the requirements for individual gas-cylinder installations with LPG (from liquefied at hydrocarbon G basics) for individual residential buildings, what should be the external and internal gas pipelines, and in which rooms it is allowed to place gas appliances and apparatus.

So, individual (up to two gas cylinders) LPG cylinder units are now can be placed both outside and inside buildings[P. 8.2.5 SP 62.13330.2011]. It is allowed to place cylinders with a volume of not more than 0.05 m (50 l) in apartments of a residential building(no more than one bottle per apartment) no more than two stories high(without basement and basement floors). However, the permissibility of placing gas cylinders in a house or apartment, as is often the case in "legislative mess" Russian Federation, contrary to paragraph 91 Government Decree (PP) of the Russian Federation No. 390 "On the fire regime":Do not store flammable gas cylinders in individual residential buildings, apartments and living rooms, as well as in kitchens, escape routes, stairwells, basement floors, basements and attics, balconies and loggias. At the same time, paragraph 92 of the RF PP No. 390 provides that 1 cylinder with a volume of not more than 5 liters, connected to a factory-made gas stove can be used in a house or apartment. According to clause 94 of the same resolution, at the entrance to buildings where there are gas cylinders, a fire safety warning sign with the inscription "Flammable. Gas cylinders."

But... I would I did not recommend storing and even more so using gas cylinders in an apartment, even in a two-story house: By limiting the number of floors in buildings in which gas bottles can be used in apartments, legislators simply limited the number of potential victims in the event of a gas bottle explosion or gas leak at night. It is known that the explosion of one gas cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in a building creates an overpressure of approximately 12.5 kPa, which is classified as sufficient to cause moderate damage (significant damage to load-bearing structural elements, partial destruction of walls and ceilings of buildings)[ Karibyants V.R. , Nadezhdin A.V. On the question of the methodology for assessing the degree of destruction of a multi-storey residential building during an explosion of natural gas in one of the premises. // Bulletin of the Astrakhan State Technical University, 2004 - No. 4 (20). - P. 35-39].

In the United States, such dangerous stupidity as the use and storage of gas cylinders inside the house is not allowed: according to clause 3-2.2.1 of the NFPA 58 (National Fire Protection Association) code, gas cylinders used must be located exclusively on the street, with the exception of gas cylinders of car fuel systems in garages, gas cylinders for equipment used in repair and construction work in the house during repair or construction and empty cylinders for the exchange, sale or disposal of unused cylinders limited to no more than 1.1 liters, awaiting use, stored in accordance with special storage conditions. Perhaps due to sensible American legislation, we rarely hear about gas cylinder explosions in US residential buildings. In Russia, thanks to the liberal requirements for the storage and use of gas cylinders in houses and apartments, people often do not even understand the degree of danger to which they expose themselves and their neighbors thanks to such "kind" officially approved Russian standards. It is not for nothing that the news is constantly covered by stories about the explosions of gas cylinders and significant destruction in residential buildings in Russia.

Rules for the storage of gas cylinders in buildings in accordance with the requirements of chapter 5 of the US code NFPA 58:
- gas cylinders may be stored exclusively in non-residential, little-used, well-ventilated areas away from doors, stairs and any mechanical and electrical potential sources of sparks.
- all valves of gas cylinders must be closed and protective caps must be screwed onto the outlet gas fittings until they stop on the thread.
- in residential and public premises it is allowed to store gas cylinders with a volume of not more than 1.1 liters. The total volume of gas cylinders cannot exceed 91 liters.
- gas cylinders located on the street should be located no closer than 6.1 meters from the entrance to the building.

According to Russian fire regulations gas cylinders can be located outside buildings in extensions (cabinets or under casings covering the upper part of the cylinders and the gearbox) made of non-combustible materials near a blank wall pier at a distance of at least 5 meters from the entrances to the building, ground and basement floors [p. 92 RF PP No. 390]. These norms are contradicted by the recommendations of SP 62.13330.2011, which state that individual LPG cylinder installations should be placed outside at a horizontal distance of at least 0.5 m from window openings and 1.0 m from doorways the first floor, at least 3.0 m from the door and window openings of the basement and basement floors, as well as sewer wells. It is not allowed to place an LPG cylinder installation at emergency exits, from the side of the main facades of buildings. I would recommend focusing on the time-tested (used with regular revisions since 1943) American NFPA 58 standards, which regulate the minimum safe distance from the installation site of LPG gas cylinders before entering the building at least 6.1 m, before windows and air vents - 1 m (91 cm), to ventilation and air conditioning devices - 1.5 m, to flammable materials - 3 meters.

Although, as we found out, it is better not to keep gas cylinders indoors due to safety reasons, Russian standards describe the rules for placing gas cylinders in residential buildings (clause 8.2.6 of SP 62.13330.2011): at least 0.5 m from the gas stove(excluding built-in cylinders) and 1 m - from heating appliances . When installing a screen between the cylinder and the heater, the distance may be reduced to 0.5 m. The screen must be made of non-combustible materials and protect the cylinder from the thermal effects of the heater. When installing an LPG cylinder outdoors, it should be protected from transport damage and heating above 45 °C.
It is not allowed to install LPG cylinders:
- in living rooms and corridors;
- in the basement and basements and attics;
- in rooms without natural light;
- in premises located in, under and above the dining and trading halls of enterprises Catering;
audiences and classrooms, visual (assembly) halls of buildings, hospital wards, etc. [P. 8.2.7 SP 62.13330.2011]. Once again I repeat my personal opinion and the requirements of American standards - there should not be any gas cylinders in residential premises, except for microballoons up to 1.1 liters, the explosion of which will not lead to death and collapse of building structures, and gas leakage will not create lethal concentrations!

Requirements for external and internal gas pipelines (pipelines for the vapor phase of LPG).

According to the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 "Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes"(clause 5. 8) gas pipelines along the walls of buildings are recommended lay without disturbance architectural elements of the facade at a height that provides the possibility of inspection and repair of gas pipelines and excludes the possibility of their mechanical damage. In places where people pass, it is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a height of 2.2 m (paragraph 5. 13). True, this requirement applies to the laying of a gas pipeline on supports. However, the less people have the opportunity to influence the gas pipeline (fall on it, accidentally hit it with a stone or a shovel, drop a burning object on it), the more the gas pipeline will be safe.

According to the provisions of paragraph 4.3 of SP 62.13330.2011, for external and internal laying of a gas pipeline from an LPG cylinder installation, with a reducer installed on a gas cylinder, which lowers the gas pressure from 0.1 mPa to 2-3 thousandths of a mPa, steel pipes (seamless or electric-welded), copper, multilayer polymer and polyethylene pipes reinforced with fibers or steel mesh frame. Polymer (polyethylene) pipes are recommended for underground installation. According to the requirements of the NFPA 58 code, the minimum depth of penetration of polymer pipes into the ground to prevent their damage is 48 cm. For open outdoor laying, polymer pipes of gas pipelines are not recommended, as they can easily be damaged by heating, rodents or intruders. American codes require non-breakable polymer pipes to be encased in steel pipe for outdoor installation. Steel pipes must be protected from corrosion in accordance with the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 "Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes." The external laying of gas pipelines must be continuous. Ideally, from the LPG gas cylinder installation to the gas appliance in the house, there should be an unbreakable pipeline with shut-off valves and protective valves (optionally - according to the vertical position, temperature, gas flow) located at the cylinder and at the gas appliance. It is not allowed to install locking devices when laying gas pipelines along the walls of the building.

Connections of gas pipeline pipes should be provided as one-piece. Detachable connections are allowed at installation sites technical devices[clause 5.1.4 of SP 62.13330.2011]. For internal gas pipelines in buildings, it is allowed to make gas pipe connections: for steel pipes- butt and overlap welding, for copper pipes- soldering and pressing, for metal-polymer - press compression. It is not allowed to place gas pipeline connections of any kind in walls, ceilings, structures, in places with limited visibility and access.

The entry of the gas pipeline into the house must be carried out directly into the room in which the gas-using equipment is installed, or into the room adjacent to it, connected by an open opening [clause 5.1.6 of SP 62.13330.2011]. In places where the gas pipeline enters the house, the pipes must be enclosed in a case (sleeve). The ends of the case at the points of entry and exit of the gas pipeline from the ground, the gap between the gas pipeline and the case at the entrances of the gas pipeline to buildings should be sealed with elastic material for the entire length of the case [clause 5.1.4 of SP 62.13330.2011]. In single-family or semi-detached houses, it is even allowed to introduce gas into the basement or basement. I would not conduct such experiments, remembering that this norm is due to the principle of limiting human casualties - the gas is heavier than air (the propane phase of steam is 1.5 times heavier than air, and the butane phase is 2 times heavier) and accumulates in depressions without a chance for weathering, and a mixture of natural gas at a concentration of 5-15% with air is an extremely explosive mixture. A person begins to perceive the smell of gas at its concentration in the atmosphere of about 1%. Fortunately, when it comes to basements and plinths, domestic regulations require their mandatory equipment with gas control and fire safety systems. The premises in the house in which pressure control devices, gas flow meters and detachable connections are installed must be protected from access by unauthorized persons. In the gas boiler house of a residential building, a carbon monoxide sensor must be provided with the issuance of sound and light signals, as well as with automatic shutdown of gas supply to gas-using equipment. In general, for the safe gasification of buildings, as a rule, it is necessary to provide for the installation of protective fittings on gas pipelines to automatically turn off the gas supply in the event of emergencies:
- when the permissible maximum gas flow rate is exceeded;
- when hazardous concentrations of gas or carbon monoxide appear in a gasified room;
- when signs of fire appear in the gasified room (thermo-stop gas valve) [clause 7.12 of SP 62.13330.2011].

Inside the building, gas pipelines can be made of metal pipes (steel and copper) and heat-resistant (!) multilayer polymer pipes, including, among other things, one metal layer (metal-polymer). Pipes for the vapor phase of natural gases (after the gas cylinder reducer) inside the building are allowed to be produced as open way and with laying in a strobe, provided there are no pipe connections. When laying hidden gas pipelines from steel and copper pipes, it is necessary to provide additional measures for their protection against corrosion, to ensure ventilation of the strobe channels and access to the gas pipeline during operation. Hidden laying of gas pipelines from multilayer metal-polymer pipes should be carried out with subsequent plastering of the walls. The pipes in the strobe must be laid in a monolithic or free way (subject to the measures taken to seal the strobe). At the points of passage through building construction buildings, pipes should be laid in cases [clause 7.5 of SP 62.13330.2011]. It is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a distance of at least 50 cm from any type of openings.

Both LPG gas cylinders themselves and gas appliances can be connected to gas pipelines with flexible hoses that are resistant to the transported gas at a given pressure and temperature, including heat-resistant flexible multilayer hoses. polymer pipes, reinforced with synthetic threads, subject to confirmation in in due course their suitability for use in construction [clause 7.3 of SP 62.13330.2011]. Clause 7.6 allows the transit laying of a gapless internal gas pipeline exclusively in an open way through residential premises (something that I would not do either). The use of gas-using equipment in residential premises is not allowed - that is, for example, using gas convectors for heating bedrooms is unacceptable.

Paragraph 95 of the RF PP No. 390 prohibits when using household gas appliances:
but) operate household gas appliances in the event of a gas leak;
b) attach parts of gas fittings using a sparking tool;
in) check the tightness of connections using open flame sources, including matches, lighters, candles. (Check the threaded connections of the gas lines with soapy water, shampoo or shaving foam).

So, we connect a gas stove in the kitchen to bottled gas. For the connection we use Kolfuso seamless stainless steel bellows pipe in plastic. The gas pipe will go to the cabinet with gas cylinders without breaks. The advantage of the Colfuso pipe: resistance to corrosion, no need for welding, flexibility (can be bent in one place up to 100 times), fire resistance. Such a pipe costs about 120 rubles per meter. Safety and reliability are worth the money.

Entering the pipe into the room is made in the kitchen a few meters from the gas stove. The gas pipe connection to the stove is made under the tabletop with access to the gas stove through the adjacent cabinet to protect gas pipe from heating by an oven installed under a gas hob. Additionally, the section of the gas pipeline will be protected basalt wool in foil. This will be done because we have checked that the section of the gas pipe adjacent to the oven heats up sufficiently during the operation of the oven.

In order for the gas stove to work with bottled gas, it is necessary to replace nozzles (jets) with a large hole diameter in the stove with jets with a small nozzle diameter. IN Soviet time when there was nothing to buy, the jets were caulked (flattened with a hammer) to reduce the size of the jet nozzle. Gas nozzles (jets) for bottled gas have smaller openings than nozzles for main gas. The larger the burner on the gas stove, the more hole in jet. For bottled gas (propane), jets for a gas stove of the minimum size are suitable - 44, 50 for small burners and 68, 70 for large burners on gas stoves.Using a fitting with dielectric gaskets, the bellows pipe is connected to the gas stove. In our case, the gas line is connected to the cylinder through a rubber hose. If the entire gas line is metal, then when connecting the stove to the line, a dielectric gasket is required - so that static electricity cannot reach the gas cylinder through the metal pipe. We will additionally have a section with a rubber hose for connecting to a gas cylinder. The fewer threaded connections on the gas line, the higher the reliability of the system as a whole. To seal threaded connections for connecting gas appliances and valves, fum tape or flax with Multipack paste is used.Standard paste for water seals - Unipack is not suitable for gas lines. For outdoor installation, we enclose the Kolfuso seamless bellows pipe in an additional protective corrugated duct and thermal insulation. It is not necessary to do this - the gas main must be accessible for review and provide for gas weathering in the event of a leak.The gas main must be laid along the facade at a height of at least 2.2 meters (so that it is not damaged by people and the gas, in case of a possible leak, would be carried by the wind and not accumulate in the relief). The gas line must be accessible for inspection. We install a steel cabinet for gas cylinders on the northern wall of a house with a small number of windows. The cabinet will be installed on a raised platform so that if a leak occurs, the gas will be able to disperse. The basis for the foundation are metal pipes hammered to a depth of 2 m. At the same time, one of the pipes will be the grounding of the cabinet for gas cylinders.The grounding of the gas cylinder cabinet will be connected through a double steel strip of mounting tape. We paint the junctions of the tape and the pole. We reinforce the base with two-layer reinforcement (from the waste of the armature - there will be no loads here.Finished casting of the foundation for the gas cabinet. Section 3-2.4.1 of NFPA 58 provides for the installation of gas cylinders on a solid, stable foundation, or securing them to prevent them from tipping over. For additional safety, it is recommended to install safety shut-off valves on gas cylinders that shut off the gas supply in case of capsizing. With the help of porcelain stoneware, we create gaps to divert possible gas leakage from under the bottom of the steel cabinet for gas cylinders. From the installation site of the gas cabinet to dry grass, branches, brushwood, firewood and any other flammable material must be at least 3 meters. Smoking is prohibited within a radius of 7 meters from the gas cabinet. On the gas cabinet a sticker with a warning "No smoking! Flammable" [clause 6107.2 of the International Building Code ICC] or "Flammable. Gas" in accordance with clause 93 of RF PP No. 390 must be applied.Now a small ode to the domestic business about steel cabinets for gas cylinders. The situation with steel cabinets for gas cylinders (at least in St. Petersburg) is a complete mess. For 2500-3500 rubles, domestic manufacturers offer what can rather be called not a "steel cabinet", but a metal cover for gas cylinders. Steel - from 0.5 to 0.9 mm thick and of the worst quality (it rusts instantly). I was lucky - and I bought a cabinet of powder (albeit hacky) coloring. Many sell cabinets in the ground for the same money. I immediately painted over the bottom of this wonderful cabinet swaying in the wind with Hammerite. Then you have to paint the whole cabinet - the slightest scratches immediately rust.

Once again - I bought best closet for gas cylinders from those that are presented on the market of St. Petersburg. This cabinet, unlike analogues from manufacturers without any conscience and concepts, at least had ventilation holes in the walls and in the bottom. Other cabinets did not have such openings. As they explained to me in one of the Lengazapparat (!) stores - "our closet has gaps - and so everything is ventilated." By the way, through the winter this cabinet also rusted - it had to be completely painted with Hammerite.

In general: if someone starts producing cabinets from good thick steel, with proper ventilation, well-painted, with a ground terminal and at a price of up to 4000 rubles, financial success awaits. Or turn to the Chinese again? ( 中国使煤气瓶一个很好的内阁 )

Yes, the cabinet for gas cylinders is attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws from the wind and lovers of other people's cabinets.

The bellows pipe is introduced into the cabinet for gas cylinders through an opening in back wall(with gasket with elastic polypropylene mounting tape). We assemble a unit with a shut-off gas valve and a fitting for switching to a gas hose. The hose plays the role of an additional dielectric gasket. Saving 30 rubles on a hose is also not worth it: a multilayer high-quality frost- and UV-resistant Austrian gas hose Semperit costs 50 rubles per meter. Section 2-4.6.3 of NFPA 58 prohibits the use of non-branded gas hoses (i.e., manufactured by unknown by whom, unknown where, unknown how).Now about the gearboxes: this is an inexpensive, but very important joke that reduces the pressure from a gas cylinder to a safe one (0.0015-0.003 MPa \u003d 1.5-3.0 kPa). Baltika reducer (on the left) costs two hundred rubles. This is a regulator for a gas cylinder with a valve. It is fixed on the balloon with three spring-loaded balls. There are also "Belarusian" (or actually Chinese?) "Frog" type gearboxes for valve cylinders for the same two hundred rubles. On the right is an Italian (most likely Italian) gearbox costing about 350-400 rubles with a working outlet pressure of 3 kPa (30 mbar). Most importantly, the connection of the reducer to the cylinder is provided by a fitting with a threaded connection. This type of gearbox is much safer. Most gas accidents are due to leaks in faulty regulators. Gas cylinders with a valve are much less safe cylinders, compared to cylinders with a valve, both during operation and during transportation. And yet, since the quality of our gas is Russian, a fair amount of liquid gas condensate (3-5 liters) will gradually accumulate in the cylinder. With a valve gas cylinder, you will not be able to drain it and will regularly give your money to tankers for gas stations. The valve bottle can be emptied of condensate (after depressurizing) by turning the bottle upside down and opening the valve in a well ventilated area free of flames and sparks. And by the way, do not go to pay for gas until the tanker shows you the weight of the cylinder without gas and the weight of the cylinder with gas. And you know ... Well, in general, everything is as usual with us ...Not all gas reducers are equally useful: on the left is a gas reducer, which is very likely Italian. Right: an adjustable gas reducer that is definitely not Italian. The most dangerous thing about this gearbox is the steel nut instead of the bronze one. If you are using a steel wrench to tighten a threaded connection, the impact of the wrench steel against the nut steel may generate a spark. Striking steel on bronze produces no spark. Also, the thickness of the fitting at the "left" gearbox is much less - which means there is a higher probability of gas leakage. On the left - an imitation "grid" made of plastic on the "left" gas reducer. Right - quality steel mesh Italian gas reducer. The "left" gas reducer is characterized by low quality of manufacture and assembly. Company store salesperson gas equipment, where I purchased the gearbox, looking into my eyes I swore that both gearboxes were "firm" and "not ketai". The "left" gearbox is more expensive))). The Italian gas reducer is equipped with detailed instruction for installation in several languages.We pull the gas hose onto the fitting and fix it with a clamp with a worm gear. To facilitate the tension of the gas hose, lubricate the fitting with clean tap water. If the reducer and hose are branded, you will have to exert force to connect the hose to the reducer.The Italian gas reducer does not require the installation of a paronite gasket: there is not even room for it. The reducer is installed on the gas cylinder in a strictly horizontal position (the membrane is vertically up).In our cabinet for liquefied bottled gas, two gas bottles of 27 liters will be installed. This is the most convenient size of a gas cylinder in terms of resource / transportation ratio for a male owner. For a woman, gas cylinders are needed smaller and lighter (13 liters). In 2013, the cost of refueling a 27-liter gas cylinder is 280 rubles. We picked right size the size of the jets: this is evidenced by the nature of the flame on the gas burners of the stove: the flame of blue color without red or orange tabs and does not come off the burner nozzles. Keep in mind the peculiarity of gas stoves with gas control and electric ignition: the handle should be kept pressed during ignition for at least 5-7 seconds - otherwise the gas control will stop the gas supply, since the sensor thermocouple will not have time to heat up.If your gas stove is already connected, then you can see the table how much you need to cook various products. For example, shrimp, so that they do not become "rubber". And here you can see how we
I repeat once again: don't copy what you've done- work on connecting bottled gas in the country is completely non-professional at your own peril and risk, with violations and errors. To connect bottled gas to a gas stove, contact a certified specialist or gas service.

Reducing the pressure of propane gas to the level required for a particular job is the main task that the gearbox for the propane cylinder is designed to perform. . Without this device, neither gas welding nor the use of gas cylinders in everyday life would be impossible. Below we will talk in detail about the structure, purpose and features of the gearbox for a propane cylinder.

General information.

Propane gas, which is naturally found in petroleum gases and is released during oil refining, is used by people for a variety of needs - both at home and at work. In my own way chemical composition Propane is a saturated, colorless and odorless hydrocarbon.

Propane is used:

  • for gas welding works;
  • for space heating;
  • in construction;
  • for gas household appliances;
  • as one of the types of fuel for cars (it is considered cheaper and more environmentally friendly than gasoline and diesel fuel).

But since the gas is a combustible explosive substance, special cylinders are used to store it in a compressed state. In the middle of the cylinder, the gas is under high pressure, and in order to let it out, you need to regulate the gas pressure at the outlet of the cylinder. This function is performed by the gearbox for the propane cylinder. . In addition, the reducer maintains a stable level of operating pressure.

What is a propane reducer?

The design of the gearbox is simple. There is a membrane inside, with a special nut the device is connected to the gas cylinder. There is a key (screw), they regulate the pressure to the required one. The reducer has a pressure gauge, which displays the level of working pressure. On the other side of the reducer, a hose is put on for connection to a gas-consuming device. Propane tanks are painted red, so the gearbox must be the same color. Reducers for other gases have a different color. The gearbox weighs about 0.5 kg.

Propane reducer labeling includes:

  1. manufacturer, (must be a trademark of the enterprise);
  2. gearbox brand;
  3. year of issue.

In addition, certificates of conformity and safety rules are attached to the gearbox.

How to choose a reducer for a propane cylinder used in everyday life?

The propane cylinder reducer is designed for operation in a temperate climate, therefore its use is permissible at temperatures from -15 to 45 degrees Celsius.

To accurately select the reducer for a domestic gas boiler, convector or water heater, the technical characteristics of the reducer should be taken into account:

  • Gas consumption.
  • Operating pressure.
  • Connection method.

The maximum allowable gas pressure at the inlet to the reducer is 25 kgf / cm 2, and the largest operating pressure 3 kgf / cm 2.

For stable operation, the gas consumption of the equipment should not exceed the performance of the reducer. If the outlet pressure in the gas reducer is greater than the operating pressure of the gas convector or water heater, the gas burner may go out or the automation of the device will fail.

You can connect the gas consuming device to the cylinder with a conventional gas hose. In this case, a gas reducer with a herringbone type outlet fitting is used. If there are several devices, then you can make the wiring of the gas line using a corrugated pipe. Then you will need a gearbox with a threaded outlet.

Precautionary measures.

Before installing the gearbox, you must make sure that there are no cracks and dents on the body and parts on the device, check how tightly everything fits. Is the glass on the pressure gauge broken or cracked? The gearbox must not be used. Is the pressure gauge pointer stationary even though gas is being supplied? This situation indicates that the device is defective or defective. Have you thoroughly inspected the gearbox? Only now it can be turned on. First of all, slowly open the cylinder valve, then on the gearbox, and finally, turn the key on the gas-consuming device. We rotate the adjusting screw on the gearbox, setting the operating pressure indicator. We perform all actions smoothly and slowly, fixing any changes, sounds, etc. In the opposite sequence - equipment, gearbox, cylinder - turn off the valves.

The reducer valve can become clogged, therefore, at least 2 times a year, we clean the reducer valve. But it is better to do it with the help of a specialist. If during operation we find even the slightest malfunction, stop using the device. It is important not to forget to close the valve, as well as release the gas from the reducer.

In the very recent past, the use of liquefied hydrocarbon gases (LHG) in the domestic environment of our country was a rare phenomenon. In rural areas and summer cottages, only gas stoves worked from a gas cylinder.

The impetus for the wider use of liquefied propane as an energy carrier was the emergence of modern gas-using equipment and the growth of electricity tariffs. However, with a wide variety of heating and water heating appliances capable of operating on liquefied gas, in Russia there is still a meager selection of high-quality household gearboxes. This article will talk about the purpose, types and characteristics of household propane reducers.

The gas pressure in a gas cylinder, gas-cylinder installation or tank is a variable value, depending on the amount of gas in the tank and temperature environment. To reduce the pressure of the gas leaving the cylinder (tank) to the value necessary for the stable operation of gas-using equipment (gas stove, boiler, gas convector, gas water heater) and gas propane reducers are used.

To correctly select a gearbox for your gas boiler, convector or water heater, you need to know its main technical characteristics:

  • Gas consumption
  • Operating pressure
  • Connection method

The consumption of liquefied gas in the vast majority of cases is indicated in the technical documentation of the equipment in kilograms per hour (kg / hour). The gas consumption of a heater with a thermal power, for example 5 kW, is on average 0.4 - 0.5 kg / h. The minimum productivity makes 1 kg/hour. For stable operation of gas-using equipment, its gas consumption should not exceed the performance of the reducer. If you purchase a reducer with a capacity of 4 kg/h for a gas convector with a flow rate of 0.3 kg/h, nothing terrible happens - the automation of the device will still not let more gas through than necessary. Do not forget to sum up the consumption ha
for, if several gas-consuming devices operate on the same line (from one cylinder or gas-cylinder installation).

The operating pressure of a gas-consuming device is an even more important characteristic. The use of a gas reducer with an output pressure exceeding the working pressure of the gas convector or water heater will, at best, lead to flame separation and extinction gas burner, and in the worst case, to the failure of the automation of the device. Most appliances run on LPG at 30, 42 and 50 mbar. Propane reducers are produced both with a fixed outlet pressure and adjustable (with a range, for example, from 20 to 60 mbar).

The way of connecting the heating device to the cylinder or gas-cylinder installation is your choice only. If you are satisfied with the connection with a conventional gas hose, then you need a gas reducer with a herringbone outlet fitting. If you want everything to be reliable and aesthetically pleasing, then you should think about distributing the gas line, for example, the widespread stainless steel corrugated pipe. In this case, you also need a gearbox with a threaded outlet.

If a lot of time is spent in the country, cooking is indispensable. You can of course use electric stove, but the lights are often turned off in summer cottages, so this is unreliable. The best way out is a gas stove for giving under a cylinder. It almost does not require registration, there are very inexpensive models. As long as there is gas, you can always cook.

Types of plates for gas cylinders

It should be said right away that there are gas stoves that can work with both main natural gas and bottled liquefied gas. Reconfiguration requires nozzle replacement and adjustment. So basically for dachas will do any of them.

Tabletop gas stoves are mobile...why not...

Another thing is that in the "field" conditions they use it much less and less often than in everyday life. For this reason, the simplest and smallest models are chosen. After all, now water for tea is heated, most often, with an electric kettle, cooked food is heated in microwave oven. On the gas oven in the country they only cook, and the simplest dishes. Some other housewives make twists. That's all. That's why they usually buy one or two burner stoves. However, there is a fairly wide selection for any requirements and needs.

Desktop and floor

According to the installation method, gas stoves for summer cottages are divided into desktop and floor. Specifications do not differ only in size. Desktop ones are usually made the simplest, without any additional options. This is exactly the country / camping option with a minimum weight and dimensions.

For rare visits, "and so it goes", but you can't put a balloon next to it

What is the best gas stove for giving under a cylinder? Desktop or floor? It's all about free space. If there is somewhere to install a floor version, take it. Although they cost more, they can serve as a cabinet themselves. And they (cabinets), usually, are not enough in the country. Just remember that you still need to find a place to store the balloon. It can be located nearby (the minimum distance between the stove and the cylinder is 0.5 meters and at a distance of at least 1 meter from the heaters), or it can stand outside in a special closet that is locked with a key.

If, on the contrary, there is space on the table, but not on the floor, a desktop version of the gas stove will do. The best part is that they cost one and a half to two thousand rubles.

Number and type of burners

A gas stove for giving a cylinder can have from one to four burners. A single burner is suitable if there are one or two people in the country and you do not spin. For cooking breakfast / dinner for a family of three to four people and a small amount of conservation, two burners are enough. Well, if you need it and dinner for a full-fledged family, take it with three or four burners.

IN Lately in addition to burners of a standard, medium size, they began to make even larger and smaller ones. This is convenient, as the dishes come in different diameters. Such "excesses" are available only on four-burner options.

In addition, there are models in which, in addition to gas burners, there are also electric ones. If there is light on the site, and you need a stove to give a cylinder for three or four burners, this is also convenient. The gas in the cylinder tends to end at the most inopportune moment. If there is no spare, at least make a fire. And if you have an electric burner, you can finish the process and hold on until the balloon is filled.

Availability of additional options

Arsenal additional features only for gas burners is small. This is an electric or piezo ignition and gas control. Both functions are useful, but only you can judge how necessary. It should be said right away that they are very rare in desktop versions.

Design features

Tabletops are available in just a few types. The simplest is one, more often two burners, and that's it. But there are also models with a built-in electric oven. A good option if you use an oven. This is where the "diversity" ends.

Outdoor gas stoves for summer cottages have a little more design options:


The cabinet under the gas stove can be used to install a small gas cylinder in it. This is contrary to the requirements of gas workers (the distance between the stove and the cylinder must be at least 0.5 meters), but it is still used.

Where can you put the balloon? in the basement or ground floor, in a residential area.

Registration

The design of the gas stove for the cylinder is nominal - you don’t need to visit any instances, the requirements are easy to fulfill. The first was announced - the distance to the cylinder is at least 0.5 meters. Second: to the mains - water supply, sewerage, metal heating pipes - must be at least 2 meters. That's all.

There are two formalization options:


For many, a gas stove for giving under a cylinder has been standing for years even without such a “design”. But in this case, you will fill the cylinder yourself, without using the services of municipal gas stations or exchange machines. Also, if it is necessary to repair or maintain the stove, reconfigure it, it will be necessary to somehow resolve the issue of registration (usually there are no problems) or use the services in private.

What you need to install and connect

You will need:


How to choose a gas stove is already clear, we will now deal with the rest of the components. Nothing complicated, but there are features.

Balloon material and size

First, let's talk about the material from which the liquefied gas cylinder is made. Until recently, there were no such conversations. The gas cylinder was exclusively metal, and made of metal of decent thickness. Now there are also composite gas cylinders (also called eurocylinder) and they are approved for use gas services. If possible, it is better to buy just such. Why are they better? Here is a list of their advantages:


There are few disadvantages of a polymer balloon. The first is that it costs two to three times more than a metal one, but it is much easier to carry / transport it. The second - with an equal volume in size, it is larger than the metal counterpart.

Now about the size of gas cylinders. The larger the volume of the gas cylinder, the longer the period between refueling. But, on the other hand, larger cylinders have large dimensions and weight, and it is more difficult to carry / transport them. In addition, it is easier to find a place for installation under a small cylinder.

In general, the choice is yours. Moreover, with the advent of composite, they appeared in different sizes - high and narrow, low and wide.

Reducer

Why do you need a reducer on a gas cylinder? It performs several functions at once:


So the reducer on the gas cylinder helps to increase safety and stabilize the operation of the stove. Without him better stove do not connect. In this case, the more you open the tap on the stove, the more powerful the gas flow will come out. In addition to being uneconomical, it can create a situation where the balloon starts to jump. In general, it is better not to operate without a gearbox.

Please note that reducers are used for metal and composite cylinders different type. Therefore, when buying, specify the type of cylinder and its volume. And most importantly, to work with a liquefied gas cylinder, you need a propane reducer.

Beware of Chinese made gearboxes….

If we talk about manufacturers, it is better to take Russian or European products. Chinese are better avoided. Even those that have passed certification are made of very thin metal and quickly fail (begin to poison). In addition, many do not withstand the size of the fittings. When connected, this becomes a problem, since the hose is not put on tightly, you have to somehow seal the connection.

Hose for gas stove

You can buy it in Gorgaz stores or in hardware stores / markets. But be sure to specify that you need it to connect the gas stove. It is correctly called "gas hose-sleeve". The inner diameter must be 16 mm, the outer diameter depends on the type of hose, there must be an inscription on the surface ( yellow) that the hose is gas.

There are such gas hoses:


To connect the cylinder to the gas stove, you need a hose about a meter long - in order to fulfill the condition about the distance between the cylinder and the stove of 0.5 meters and leave a margin for freedom of movement.

On one side, a union nut with a gasket must be installed on the hose. This end is connected to the outlet from the gas stove. If you buy just a piece of hose, you can supply the appropriate gas adapter independently, tightening the mount with a metal clamp (do not forget about the silicone thick gasket for sealing). On the other hand, the hose is connected to the reducer - it is pulled onto the fitting, then tightened with a clamp (do not forget to put the clamp on the hose, and then connect it to the fitting).

The process of connecting a gas stove to a cylinder

Connecting a gas stove for giving under a cylinder is simple. Just remember that propane, when mixed with air, becomes extremely explosive. Therefore, it is necessary to work in a well-ventilated area and very carefully. When working, it is better to use cotton gloves. Another limitation is that when working indoors, you cannot use / turn on power tools. None. Until you make sure there are no leaks.

When connecting a gas stove in the country to a cylinder, it is best to provide a stopcock in the route. It is needed to increase the level of security. It will be required when replacing cylinders, in the presence of leaks. You can put it at the exit of the stove, but then the stove will have to be moved away from the wall at a decent distance. Therefore, most often, a gas pipe is cut, a tap is placed in the middle.

The work is carried out in the following order:


If all is well, the gas stove for giving under the cylinder is connected, you can operate it.