How and how to paint the OSB: choose the best way to paint the OSB slab indoors. How to paint the OSB slab on the facade - consider options Wall cladding smallpox

For repairs in an apartment, as well as in the construction of individual frame houses, it is increasingly used relatively new material, which is called an oriented strand board (OSB or OSB, if you use transliteration from English).
The use of OSB boards makes it quite simple to fill large areas light, even and solid foundation, without spending a lot of time and money on it.

However, after the end of this work, the question often arises of how to cover the OSB board in order to preserve its appearance and performance properties for a long time. In this article, we will give a few practical advice how you can finish the finishing of various structures made of OSB.

Where OSB plates are used

The growing popularity of OSB determines their use in a wide variety of areas, from construction to the production of furniture, packaging and interior decoration bodies freight transport... Most often, the problem of surface treatment occurs when carrying out the following types of work:

the device of floors;
installation internal partitions and floors;
external cladding of frame houses.

The greatest difficulties are caused by the coloring of OSB plates located on outdoors, since the coating used must adhere reliably to the surface of the slab, protect it from external influences ( sunlight, water, snow, etc.) and withstand significant temperature fluctuations.

OSB surface finishing for flooring

To build a flat surface for finishing floors, use. This category has sufficient strength and moisture resistance in order to provide solid foundation for floors installed as on concrete screed and on wooden logs located directly above the open ground.

Depending on the type of floors, the OSB board can be laid different types coatings:

Varnish... varnish is made in several layers on a thoroughly cleaned and degreased surface. If more demands are made on the quality of the floor, it is better to use sanded slabs, otherwise the base must be sanded with sandpaper or an iron brush, sanded by hand and then primed. After varnishing, the surface of the board retains its structure and forms a flat and smooth surface.
Roll materials... To cover with linoleum or carpet, it is necessary to ensure that there are no irregularities in the contact points of the plates. For this, the expansion joints are sealed with an elastic silicone sealant and carefully cleaned. Best results obtained by using slabs of minimum thickness.
Tile... For the installation of tiles, you must use special adhesives for joining ceramics and wood.
... When using this flooring you only need to prepare a flat base, which, if correct, turns out to be almost perfect.

Finishing of internal partitions

The technology for manufacturing OSB boards involves the use of various binders, such as resins, dyes, essential oils etc. With direct application of finishing materials, these substances can bleed through on subsequent layers of the coating. Therefore, finishing OSB indoors should begin with applying a primer.

Some board manufacturers add wax or paraffin to the resins so that their work surface becomes smooth and slippery. To work with such slabs, it is necessary to use a primer paint containing quartz sand, which helps the following coating elements to adhere to the surface.

After priming, the OSB board can be processed with any facing materials:

Varnish. The technology for using varnish is the same as for flooring.
Paint. It is better to use water-based paints and varnishes, since they are better steam permeable, which provides a more comfortable indoor climate. Usually for internal works the same paints are used as for ordinary wood. Using water-based types paint, some deformation of the board is possible due to swelling of chips in it, therefore, before use, it is advisable to evaluate the effect of a particular coating on a test board.
Wallpaper. It is not recommended to glue the wallpaper directly onto the board for the reasons described above. They are fixed on a pre-primed wall using wallpaper glue with the addition of PVA.

External finishing of OSB boards

Application of oriented strand board as outer cladding requires compliance with certain rules arising from. Of course, the optimal solution is to use traditional species finishes - clinker tiles, siding or lining, however, often the use of OSB in construction is dictated by the need to obtain a result at the lowest cost, therefore, OSB painting is the most popular.

Sheathed OSB outer wall at home

For this, any dye intended for external processing ordinary wood. It is especially important to consider the following points:

The most vulnerable part of the OSB slab is its ends. Therefore, to process the expansion gap between the plates, it is necessary to use acrylic sealant and make sure that it evenly fills all existing cavities.
Experts recommend that all sharp edges and edges be machined to rounds with a radius of at least 3 mm. This is necessary to evenly distribute the paint over the surface of the board.
All surfaces must be primed and sealed prior to application of the final coat.
It should be taken into account that the most porous part of the board is its edge, therefore it is necessary to carefully monitor its processing, given that it absorbs more paint than the main plane of the board.
The use of water-based primers and sealants can cause the wood fibers to swell over time, so sanding is sometimes required after they dry.
The paint must be applied in several thin layers. Wait until the previous one dries before applying a new layer.
When choosing how to paint an OSB board, it must be borne in mind that some types of transparent dyes can lose their properties under the influence of sunlight. It is best to use water-based or oil paints since the paints on water based can cause deformation of the surface, they are recommended to process areas that do not have high demands on appearance. Otherwise, it is better to use oil-based formulations.

Thus, for the treatment of surfaces from OSB panels, in most cases, you can use the same finishing materials as for ordinary solid boards. At the same time, such products are easy to assemble, form an even layer and withstand the required load well. Therefore, OSB boards are optimal solution for fast and inexpensive building structures.

Using sheet materials in the construction and finishing of housing - a well-known business. But if in the past it was necessary to manage only chipboard, fiberboard or plywood, today the ranks of traditional samples have been replenished with new analogues with improved properties, which makes them more suitable for certain types works.

One example of such products is OSB boards for interior decoration, which will be discussed below.

What is OSB board?

OSB (OSB) is an oriented strand board. The material is a panel made from pressed softwood shavings and deciduous trees. Chip sizes can be from 60 to 150 mm.

OSB plates have high strength and density, due to the combination of several layers in them. In the middle, the shavings are located across the sheet, and in the lower and upper layers- along.

All layers of the material are pressed under high temperature and pressure and impregnated with waterproof resins and paraffin. Used as a binder phenolic and formaldehyde resins. The finished slabs have a homogeneous structure - no cracks, chips or cavities.

Read more about the characteristics of the OSB in our article.

Is it harmful to use a slab for interior decoration?

The possibility of using OSB for finishing depends on the marking of the product, which in turn is determined by the amount of synthetic resins in the material, which release during operation harmful fumes.

The largest amount of toxic substances (from 10 to 30 mg per 100 g of dry matter) is contained in plates of class E2 and E3. OSB panels marked E0 and E1 contain a minimum proportion of harmful components - from 6.5 to 10 mg. These are, as a rule, products of foreign manufacturers: Glunz (Germany), Norbord (Canada), Egger (Austria).

Thus, the products of the last two brands are the most suitable for use for interior decoration.

Materials of the same class E2 and E3 can only be used for outdoor work.

To protect yourself from buying "dangerous" material, it is worth considering some points that partially determine right choice OSB:

smell of slabs. With high content harmful substances the material smells strongly of formalin and cheap plastic;
products must have a certificate certified by the stamp from the manufacturer or supplier. A copy of the document can be requested from the seller;
it will also not be superfluous to inspect the packaging, if any. Products from major manufacturers are usually labeled and provided with information inserts.

How to make a partition from OSB inside the house and with what screws to fix it?

OSB - quite suitable material for the construction of internal partitions of rooms. The strength and light weight of the sheets clearly testify in favor of this product. OSB boards can be mounted on (like gypsum board) or on wooden frame.

If the second option is used, the wood should be treated with protective materials against mold and mildew, as well as with fire retardants.

Now with regard to partition installation diagrams, which will be considered using the example of a wooden frame:

At the place of installation of the structure, markings are made. Lines are drawn along the floor and ceiling, which will serve as guidelines for the installation of horizontal guides.
Along the marking lines, beams with a section of 4x6 cm are fixed.If the wall will be subjected to serious loads (for example, it is planned to hang furniture on it), it is better to use thicker bars - 5-8 cm. The guides are attached using dowels.
Install vertical racks, which are fixed to the horizontal beams using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

The spacing between the posts depends on the width of the slab, which is different. So, if the transverse size of the OSB sheet is 125 cm (the value inherent in European brands), then the optimal distance between the axes of the vertical beams is 62.5 cm.In this case, it will be possible to screw the edges and the middle of the slab to the frame.

After installing the racks, the OSB panels are mounted.

They are fixed with self-tapping screws, whose length depends on the thickness of the sheets and should be 45-50 mm more than this value. For example, when using a material with a thickness of 12 mm, the recommended length of self-tapping screws will be 60-65 mm.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in the middle of the plate with a step of 30 cm, at the edges - every 15 cm. The distance from the edge is 1 cm. A gap of 1 cm is left between the plates and the floor. The same gap should remain between the OSB and the ceiling.

Also, the panels should be installed not close to each other, but at a distance of 3 mm from each other. This will protect the sheets from deformation due to changes in humidity.

Making a partition from bars and OSB - watch the video:

Internal wall cladding

This process, just like the above procedure, requires the preliminary construction of a frame, for which all the same wooden beams or profile. Now an example for arranging the lathing will serve metal version as the timber frame was discussed earlier.

Wall decoration with OSB slabs consists of the following stages:

The first step is, as always, the markup.

If the wall is uneven, you should find the most protruding part of it, from which you should push off. Lines are drawn along the wall, after which the starting UD profile is attached to the floor and ceiling using self-tapping screws or dowels.

Further, vertical CD profiles are inserted into the installed guides and are also fixed - to the wall using self-tapping screws and metal hangers, to horizontal guides - with drilling self-tapping screws. The spacing between the posts is the same as in the case of a wooden frame.
To stiffen the crate, the vertical posts reinforce transverse profiles... When standard height ceilings (2.5 m), it will be enough to install two elements for each span.

Installation of slabs is carried out in accordance with the rules mentioned in the instructions for the construction of partitions.

How to decorate the slab inside the room?

Interior finishing of wooden country houses as in the photo can be completely different in cost and design. For finishing surfaces different materials are used from OSB sheets. Let's consider them further.

Is it possible to mount drywall on OSB?

Can. Moreover, for this it is not necessary to use a metal profile, but it is enough to fasten the material to the base with self-tapping screws.

The main thing here is that the humidity level in the room was not high, since otherwise it can lead to deformation of the OSB and, therefore, the very plasterboard sheathing... Self-tapping screws are screwed in along the perimeter and in the center of the gypsum board in 10-15 cm increments.

Painting with varnish and acrylic paint

Varnish increases moisture resistance OSB boards. This finishing method is good for damp rooms. The boards can be painted with any varnish intended for natural wood. The surface is cleaned of dirt, degreased, cleaned with sandpaper and treated with a primer. The varnished OSB has a smooth surface, but retains its texture.

Also not bad option for finishing OSB -. It rolls well with a roller on the surface and forms a durable and breathable coating.

For the best effect, it is advisable to paint in two layers.

Plastering with gypsum plaster

Putty materials do not adhere well to wood. Therefore, it is best to use formulations that have maximum adhesion to wood surfaces. This can be dry mixes "Rodband" or "Goldband" containing polymer additives and most suitable for working with wood. Vitonit KR can be used as a finishing one.

Before filling OSB primed with a special compound, where glue, interlining and a little putty mixture are added. If this measure is neglected, the impregnation of the base can appear on the finished surface, as a result of which the finish will become stained.

How to plaster the surface of OSB boards?

For plastering OSB, it is best to use special mixture... For instance, Knauf sevener... The plaster finishing technology itself includes the following steps:

The joints between the plates are putty and pasted over with a serpyanka.
The surface is treated with a primer (you can take Knauf Tifengrund).
The first layer of plaster is applied and the reinforcing mesh is embedded in it.
Covering and leveling layers are applied on top.

Glass wallpaper sticker

If the plates smooth (sanded), wallpaper can be glued directly to them. Otherwise, you will have to plaster and putty the surface, doing it according to the technology described above.

Glass fiber is glued to special compounds. In this case, dry mix "Methylane Fiberglass Premium" and granular composition "Methylane Granulate Premium" are suitable.

Learn how to glue wallpaper on OSB from the video:

How to glue ceramic tiles?

You can paste it in several ways:

fix the expanded mesh on the surface and lay the cladding on any adhesive for ceramic tiles;
install directly on the OSB board using an adhesive for deforming surfaces;
use epoxy grout instead of adhesive.

The liquid wallpaper

This type of finish is applied to OSB as well as an ordinary wall... You just need prepare the foundation by sealing the joints and treating the surface with a primer.

Per 12 hours before the start of work the composition is kneaded and left in plastic bag... The finished material is applied with a spatula in an even layer from 3 to 7 mm.

One of the advantages of such a material is that it is not afraid of small surface defects. They are simply smoothed out when the mixture is applied.

Is it possible to sheathe a sauna and a garage inside the OSB with a stove?

OSB sheets - a material that is suitable not only for decoration living quarters... It can also be used successfully for cladding or garage applications.

In the first case, of course, you only need to use eco-friendly brands of material.

OSB in the bath should be processed 2-3 coats of water-soluble varnish, which will give the surface a shine and protect it from the effects of moisture.

As for the cladding, here OSB of any marking is suitable, since in non-residential premises, concern for the environment is the tenth thing and the harmfulness of the material does not matter.

From all of the above, we can conclude that OSB boards are a versatile product suitable for use for various types of finishes. This quality, combined with the strength of the panels, makes OSB a worthy representative of the sheet materials category.

How to putty OSB with your own hands - a detailed course for beginners:

Today OSB panels are so popular that they are often used in repair and construction for both interior and exterior decoration. Of course with the right approach, it is even possible to paint OSB, or plaster on OSB, sticker wallpaper, but all this is not very reliable, and as a result it will turn out even costly. If you try hard, you can even lay tiles on this material, but how long it all will stand can depend on many factors, and for outdoor work such decoration is not at all applicable.

Therefore, many are wondering how to sheathe OSB from the outside so that it serves for a long time, does not give in to rotting and it is not expensive. In our instructions, you will find out, get acquainted with the necessary tools, and most importantly, how to do it all correctly.

How to sheathe OSB outside the house

If your house facade is made of OSB, it is absolutely impossible to leave it like that. After all atmospheric phenomena- rain, snow, temperature changes will very quickly render the material unusable. Therefore, if the OSB is correctly laid, which means that the seams are left at least 3 mm, and the OSB itself is impregnated from all sides with a good antiseptic impregnation. You can already come close to the question of how to sheathe OSB outside the house.

Siding.

This is most likely the cheapest and quick option for cladding outside the house of OSB panels. A wide variety of this material - which can mimic timber, plank, wild stone, brick, slate and more. And the ease of its installation even allows you to sheathe OSB yourself outside the house.

The choice can only fall on him because of his positive characteristics:

The siding is easy to install.
He does not need additional processing - painting, impregnation, etc.
The material does not require any special care.
Does not change color from direct sunlight.
Easily withstands both positive and negative temperatures.
Long service life.
The material is fire safe and environmentally friendly.

And this is perhaps not even all of its positive aspects.

But let's start with the installation. To sheathe the OSB outside with siding, you first need to fix the slats on the house. This additional stage seems superfluous, because at first glance vinyl panels can be easily fixed on OSB and without lattice. But we strictly assure you that you cannot do this.

The siding should be attached only to the crate so that there is a space of 2-3 centimeters between it and the OSB. This will allow not only your wall to breathe, but also moisture to come out.

Those who did not use correct method siding installations really regret it, just a year or two and the wall under the siding begins to rot and grow mold. And you have to remove everything, repair the wall and then re-attach the cladding, but this time to the crate.

Ideal for lathing wooden slats which are mounted vertically on the wall. If you are not going to insulate the walls, then their thickness should be in the range of two or three centimeters - ideally the size of the slats should be 60x30mm or 60x40mm. Fastening such a crate (which is also called the rails of the ventilated facade) in the OSB panel is simpler and simpler, for this, self-tapping screws of the appropriate length are used. A good screwdriver will help you do this job without special efforts... Of course, if you tighten the screws with an ordinary screwdriver, then you will simply suffer and spend a lot of time.

If you don't have a screwdriver, be sure to buy it, you don't even need to take an expensive version of the tool on the battery. You can also purchase it working from the network, such a tool will come in handy more than once on the farm.

The distance between the slats depends on the type of siding, but in most cases 60 centimeters will work.

Do not forget to treat the crate with an antiseptic before installing it, this will extend the service life and the screws will hold tight.

Siding installation always starts with finishing the external and inner corners building.

Strips are applied for secure attachment silicone sealant, and then they install and screw the elements to the crate.

Self-tapping screws must be screwed in in the middle of the oblong fastening holes.

When all the corners are mounted, we need to install start profile... It is attached at the very bottom, and we need to first determine its size so that it fits freely between corner pieces... Cutting off in the right place is easiest with a grinder.

When the lower profile and the siding itself are attached, the self-tapping screws also need to be tightened in the middle of the oblong holes, only they should not be clamped to the end. This is done so that in the process of changing temperatures, the material may shift slightly, and a loosely screwed self-tapping screw in this case allows it to do this.

At the end of the installation of each element, you must check whether the siding element can move, whether any tightly tightened screws interfere with it.

Their installation is very simple:

measure the required material size
using scissors with a straight cut or a grinder, cut the pieces you want.
with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, fasten it to the crate in the right place.

When this procedure is completed, you need to close the frontal board, for this you can use a metal chamfer or J-profile.

Even before installing the main siding panels, you need to finish the door and window openings. For this, a near window profile is used.

Only then can the house be sheathed with basic siding sheets. If you choose the right material, and do everything according to the instructions, your house will undoubtedly shine with beauty.

Other OSB cladding options outside the house

Of course, it is possible to sheathe OSB outside the house not only with siding, but it is the most common and economical option.

Since OSB is afraid of moisture, it is best for you to choose options from ventilated facades (ventilated facades), they allow the wall to always remain dry.

It is possible to sheathe OSB outside the house even with your own hands with ventilation facades, their installation is not very difficult, but the cost can bite. Beautiful options finishes are obtained under the brick.

There can also be a facade for a stone or granite.

How to sheathe OSB inside the house

If a simple options finishes do not suit you - varnish, paint, plaster, wallpaper, then you can approach this issue creatively and sheathe OSB inside the house plastic or wooden clapboard ... Undoubtedly, this material is quickly assembled and creates Beautiful design rooms.

But whatever you trim OSB panels, the surface should be carefully prepared. If you will sheathe panels with clapboard, then you just need to walk with an antiseptic. This will protect the material from various fungi and mold.

Also not bad looking cork wallpaper in the interior, but unfortunately they are expensive.

Wall decoration imitation timber inside the house is also not a bad option. Fastens quickly, gives the impression of a wooden house. And since in fact it is natural wood, then the effect will be significant - you will even feel the natural smell of this material.

If you are a third-party natural, then you can trim and blockhouse inside the house, it will not look bad either. Of course, one room is not finished with such materials, this option is suitable only for the whole house.

You can also sheathe the walls artificial stone ... Quite an inexpensive material - it is made of plaster; to save money, such a material can be made by yourself.

Well, if you want to get classic walls, correct option sheathe OSB with drywall, and only then plaster and paint.

As you can see, you can sheathe OSB inside the house various materials, the main thing is to approach this issue creatively.

Good day!
We are building a frame house, it is sheathed with OSB plates, there is a roof - corrugated board, in the winter it will go in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB stratified in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with a windproof film under the future ventilation facade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Izospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

It is possible to cover an unprotected facade with a windproof film, but this will not completely solve the problem of preserving OSB. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed to withstand the effects of individual drops, which are the result of condensation on the roof covering. Good slanting rain, downpour, sleet is beyond her power, the windproof membrane will "cry" with inside... Undoubtedly, wind protection will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but it will not completely eliminate it.

A windproof membrane is a good thing when it is covered with an outer trim

OSB-3 boards, which, most likely, will sheathe the frame of your house, can be called moisture resistant only with a stretch. And then about their resistance to moisture can only be said in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly collapse under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended for use as a cladding wall material without further finishing, in contrast to, for example, cement-bonded particle boards (DSP). By the way, in Canada and the USA, where did they come from? frame technologies, for the decoration of decent houses that must stand for a long time, they use waterproof plywood, particle boards are the lot of the poorest.

Manufacturers give such characteristics as the degree of swelling of an oriented strand board when in water for a day. For OSB-3 it is 15%. This is not so little, contrary to the claims of sellers and manufacturers. Of course, on the walls, the particle boards are in an upright position and are only exposed to the slanting rain from one side. However, suppose that there are showers for a week or two, sleet, wet. The low air temperature and the absence of the sun do not allow the walls to dry out.

OSB sheets unprotected from precipitation will get wet and swell properly. At the same time, they will increase not only in thickness, but also in length and width, albeit not so significantly. As a result, the particle boards that are rigidly fixed to the frame will warp. And it is not a fact that when they dry they will take their original shape, permanent deformations are very likely. In addition, the attachment points will weaken, delamination of the ends may occur (it has already begun for you), the strength of the gluing will decrease. It is unlikely that critical damage will not be inflicted on particle panels in one season, but their service life will be reduced, the overall stability of the frame will decrease, this is a fact.

OSB is not a completely waterproof material, it will inevitably collapse with prolonged exposure to moisture

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of an unfinished facade from precipitation:

Pull on windproof membrane Izospan A (18 rubles / m2) on a vertical crate, use a bar 4-5 cm thick. The film is rather weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter, it will not be torn by the winds.
Use Izospan AM (24 rubles / m2) or Izospan AS (35 rubles / m2). A three-layer windscreen is stronger, less water vapor permeable, but three times more waterproof, which means it will get wet less. Under the finishing (blockhouse) it could be stretched without crate, right along the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and crate are needed. It is necessary to provide a free flow of air, the gap should be below and above, under the roof. Option number 2 is preferable.
Stretch along the lathing, observing ventilation, any cheaper vapor-waterproofing material: roofing paper, construction reinforced vapor barrier, dense plastic wrap for greenhouses (enough for one season). When cladding the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finishing, plastic wrap can be used as temporary protection, with or without reinforcement.

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish by the fall. exterior decoration, sheathed the facade with a blockhouse along the vertical crate. As a result, it will come out cheaper, because they themselves can serve as wind protection OSB boards if they are neatly fitted. You don't have to spend money on film.

The correct solution to the "puff pastry" frame wall... If the OSB boards are fitted well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.

In this article, we will analyze in detail how insulation is performed. frame house do it yourself. Consider which is better to use insulation for a frame house, what is the required thickness of the insulation in a frame house and, in general, how to properly insulate a frame house. In addition, we will tell you how the wall cladding of a frame house, both internal and external, is performed.

Insulation of walls of a frame house Insulation for walls of a frame house

Insulation of the walls of a frame house is carried out, as a rule, between the frame posts. In this part, we will consider what options exist for effective insulation for the walls of a frame house and how insulation is carried out. Consider such heaters:

Mineral wool, density 30-50 kg / m3;
Fiberglass wool, density 17-20 kg / m3;
Polyfoam, density 25 kg / m3;
EPS, density 20-35 kg / m3.

Note: We do not consider sawdust, expanded clay, slag, flax strips, straw, etc. as a heater. The use of these materials requires, as a rule, the device of a wall of greater thickness (in comparison with effective insulation listed above). Therefore, each use of such materials should be considered and calculated separately, and they will not be considered within the framework of this article.

Of the listed heaters, we recommend using mineral wool of the specified density, since, with other, practically equal characteristics, mineral wool is not combustible, it dampens sound well and is easy to use (in comparison with foam and EPS). And in comparison with fiberglass wool, mineral wool behaves better in vertical structures (it does not settle or crumple if it is of the required density).

Note: The fact that we recommend mineral wool for use does not mean that we do not recommend other insulation materials. Our recommendation is rather a response to frequent question readers "what kind of insulation is better to use for the wall of a frame house."

Important points:

Cotton wool (even mineral, even fiberglass) must be slab, not rolled.
The thickness of the insulation in each specific house is determined by calculation. We make such a calculation, ask a question and we will calculate. According to experience, this thickness is in the range of 100-250 mm, depending on the climatic zone.
It is better to lay the insulation in layers of 50 mm, with overlapping seams. This will eliminate cold bridges. Layers of 50 mm, because wool (both mineral and fiberglass) has positions of 50 and 100 mm, intermediate positions are most often not available for sale.

Wall insulation technology for frame houses

The walls of the frame house are insulated between the frame posts. Mineral wool and fiberglass wool are placed in the spacer between the uprights. Styrofoam and EPS are cut to size between the uprights and foamed.

Where the jibs are located, the insulation is trimmed and inserted into the space between the jib and the rack. If the jibs are of a smaller section than the rack, then one layer of insulation (50 mm) can be put on top of the jibs from the outside.

Insulation scheme for the frame of the house

External cladding of the walls of a frame house

In this part, we will analyze how the external rough wall cladding is performed.

Note: Judging by the questions on the site, readers are often interested in whether it is possible not to make a rough sheathing, and to fix finishing material(e.g. siding) directly onto the frame posts. Let's analyze this moment. The presence of sheathing, together with the upper and lower slopes of the frame, forms the spatial rigidity of the frame (for more details, see the section Frame house do it yourself. Wind protection and waterproofing). And we recommend how required element, and the sheathing, and the bevels at the top and bottom. Without mowing, even with cladding, the frame can be mobile. Conversely, with mows, but without cladding, there is also mobility.

Rough skin material options (most common):

Board.

Note: All these materials will need to be finished. This can be siding cladding, this option is described in the DIY siding installation article. You can plaster the walls. It is better to arrange a layer of foam plastic (density 25 kg / m3), 30 mm, or EPS (density 20-35 kg / m3), 30 mm under the plaster layers. You can apply plaster layers on a grid, without insulation (described in the Frame House branch, Zaporozhye), but there is a greater risk of cracks in the plaster. The technology of insulation by a layer of insulation is described in the article Do-it-yourself insulation of walls of a house with foam plastic.

Note: Sometimes there are recommendations to leave the boarding as a final finish. In order to do this, the board will need to be processed. In addition, in this case, in a certain way, it is necessary to arrange wind and waterproofing of the wall under the board.

Important! We do not recommend sewing up a frame with a board, without rough sewing OSB before that. That is, if a board is used as a finishing finish, then it is mounted on top of the OSB. Let me explain what our opinion is based on. If you nail the board directly to the frame racks, without OSB, then, as a rule, the board will be unscrewed and will be unscrewed at least 2 times a year (in spring and autumn). And we need to give the frame spatial rigidity, and not vice versa - subject it to additional loads from the unpredictable behavior of the skin. Therefore, we recommend boarding only by OSB.

In this part, we describe in detail OSB cladding(since this is the most versatile and commonly used option). In addition, OSB boards are more moisture resistant in comparison with the listed options. The sheet area of the OSB is larger, which allows you to make fewer joints.

For cladding we use OSB thickness 10-12 mm.

Fastening OSB to the racks, upper and lower strapping, fastening step

OSB is attached to the racks as shown in the figure (joint in the middle of the rack).

Fastening the OSB to the frame rack

The OSB sheet must completely overlap the lower strapping. There are two options for the upper harness, depending on whether there is one floor in the house or two:

If there is one floor, then the upper harness overlaps completely, and the edge of the OSB is flush with the edge of the harness.
If there are two floors, then it is better to arrange the sheet so that it fits both the posts of the second floor and the posts of the first, and the upper strapping overlaps approximately in the middle of the sheet. This is not necessary, but adds additional rigidity to the structure.

Fastening the OSB to the harness

Fastening the OSB to the harness (if 2 floors)

Where the OSB is attached to the window opening, it is better to "cover" the window opening with a whole sheet of OSB so that the joints fall outside the frames of the opening, onto the adjacent racks .

Fastening OSB to a window opening

The window opening in this case is cut out in the OSB slab.

For the convenience of joining the plates, it is possible to make additional vertical or horizontal jumpers in the frame. As a rule, they are made of the same section as the racks.

OSB is attached to the vertical posts of the frame either with spiral nails, or with self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4.5 mm and a length of 50 mm. It is better to fasten with self-tapping screws, you can combine screws and nails.

OSB boards are attached:

In intermediate areas - in increments of 30 cm.
At the joints of the slabs - with a step of 15 cm.
Along the outer edges - in 10 cm increments.
In order to prevent the OSB board from cracking from the fasteners, a distance of 8-10 mm must be left from the edge of the board to the fasteners.
It is necessary to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the plates, otherwise the joint of the plates may warp.
A self-tapping screw or a nail for fastening should enter the rack by 40-50 mm.

Step of self-tapping screws when fastening OSB boards

OSB joint with and without gap

The depth of screwing the self-tapping screw into the rack

Wind protection and waterproofing of the walls of the frame house

The function of wind protection and waterproofing of the (outer) walls of the frame house is performed by a superdiffusion membrane with a vapor permeability of 800 g / m2 per day and above.

Note: There are recommendations that the use of a membrane is optional, you can use waterproofing films or polyethylene instead. We are categorically against the use of films, polyethylene or glassine as wind and waterproofing in this construction. Films have very low vapor permeability (up to 40 g / m2 per day) in comparison with membranes. This means that the film simply cannot cope with the removal of moisture from the insulation. And this is necessary, since there is a dew point in the insulation (see the article Dew point. Determination of the dew point in the wall at different types insulation), and this is its normal location in this structure. And the moisture must be able to erode. A membrane with a specified vapor permeability copes with this.

The location of the superdiffusion membrane in the wall structure depends on the type of rough covering and finishing:

The membrane is nailed to the frame racks, close to the insulation, Figure 9. Then the lathing (wooden slats 20x50 mm, 30x50 mm) creates a gap due to it. Then the stitching (OSB, DSP, LSU, board).

Frame wall construction

This scheme is used:

when plastering over sewing (with and without insulation);
with the option when the boarding becomes a fine finish;
when facing with siding over OSB, LSU, DSP, boards.

2. Rough sewing (OSB, LSU, DSP, board) is nailed to the frame racks. A membrane is nailed on top of it, close, without a gap. From above, along the crate (due to it the gap), siding is attached. This scheme is applicable when the rough sewing is attached facing material(like siding).

Frame wall construction

The membrane is attached with a construction stapler. Membrane joints are made with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Vapor barrier of the walls of a frame house

The vapor barrier of the walls of the frame house is carried out vapor barrier film... The film is attached from inside the room to the frame racks, close to the insulation, with a construction stapler. Joints are made with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Bonding the vapor barrier joint

Important points:

When used as insulation foam or EPS, a vapor barrier is also needed. Although these heaters do not gain moisture, in addition to them, in the thickness of the wall there are wooden elements frames that need to be protected from vapors coming from the inside of the room.
All joints and abutments of the vapor barrier must be glued with tape, as shown in the figure. In this case, it is important to use not ordinary, construction tape, but a special double-sided adhesive tape for vapor barrier.
Vapor barrier can be done with foamed polyethylene foam. It is important to take into account that the use of this material does not in any way affect the thickness of the main thermal insulation of the wall.

Internal lining of the walls of a frame house

For internal wall cladding of the house, you can use drywall or OSB. In our opinion, better OSB... Let me explain why. If drywall is attached to the frame racks from the inside, then the racks, as a rule, are not perfectly flat, and drywall (it is softer than OSB) accepts these irregularities. Then more leveling layers will be needed along the drywall. And OSB slabs are stiffer, and smooth out irregularities, align less.

Note: Internal stitching is often performed MDF panels... In the event that these are not laminated panels, they must be used with caution, as they are afraid of moisture. It is not recommended to use them in the premises of the kitchen, bathroom, toilet.

Finishing can be done on OSB or drywall. Materials such as lining must also be mounted on OSB lining, directly to the racks without lining - not recommended.

OSB (Oriented Strand Board) is a modern building material replacing plywood. Sheathing the walls of a frame house with a slab allows you to increase the functionality of the structure and give it an aesthetic appearance. In this article, we will tell you how to carry out internal and external wall cladding, as well as analyze the advantages and disadvantages of OSB boards.

Scope of the material

IN recent times OSB products are widely used in various fields, for example:

in the production of furniture and packaging;
for interior decoration of cars and trucks;

In construction, you cannot do without this product. Due to its unique manufacturing technology, the board does not deform, does not shrink, and also allows you to hide all internal defects. If we consider the use of plates in the context of work, it is used for:

Sheathing of the walls of the house, which gives greater protection to the structure from moisture penetration, dampness, and also additionally insulates the walls. After sheathing, the product does not need to be finishing works... Construction of frame-panel structures, OSB increases the moisture resistance of the structure. The slab can be used in reusable formwork construction.
Exterior wall cladding. It is used as a base, and for interior work it serves as a finishing material.
Manufacturing of battens, rafters and roofs. The slab is able to withstand any loads and the weight of the roof itself.
Leveling the floor covering or for laying it from scratch. This material is ideal for a durable and even floor.

For information! If the OSB product is located outside the building and needs to be painted, difficulties may arise, because the coating used must reliably protect the product from external factors(wind, precipitation, sun rays).

Types of slabs and their characteristics

All products are divided into 4 types, each of which is responsible for its own area of application. The types of plates are:

OSB-1 - designed for work in conditions of low humidity;
OSB-2 - designed for construction and installation load-bearing structures indoors;
OSB-3 - designed for walls, partitions and strong load-bearing structures;
OSB-4 - designed for construction works accompanied by high loads.

For information! The oriented strand board market consists of 90% of the type OSB 3.

The main characteristics of the plates include:

Convenient product size that is ideal for different applications, for example, two spans can be bridged at the same time.
Ease of processing.
All products can be easily sawn with any tool, and the cutting place is smooth, without cracks and cracks.
Strength, the product is capable of withstanding a heavy load, holding any type of fastener. The plate is not inferior in quality massive board... Smooth surface.
The product does not require additional finishing or processing; after its installation, painting or cladding can be performed immediately.
Low cost makes the product popular and in demand.
Low weight. Average weight the slab is 18 kg, which greatly facilitates the task of its delivery and skidding.

Product advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of the material include the following:

High strength: modulus elasticity, bending tear resistance.
Moisture resistance due to a special resin impregnation, which makes the slab resistant to rain and snow.
They are good at absorbing noise. Due to chips and resin, a high density is formed, which eliminates extraneous sounds.
Low weight. The product can weigh from 15 to 40 kg.
Easy to install. The product is easily attached and cut with absolutely any tool.
Environmentally friendly. The production technology uses the permissible amount of wax and resins; each product has a special “Eco” label.

Of the shortcomings, only one can be noted - the use of low-quality resins containing a large amount of formaldehyde, which can evaporate and harm human health. But it is absolutely safe to use such plates for the external cladding of a building.

External finishing of the building

The external cladding of the walls of a frame house requires compliance with certain rules that follow from the characteristics of the products. For outdoor work, use products with a thickness of at least 11 mm. The work process is divided into stages:

The OSV slab is attached to the rack in such a way that the joint is located in the middle.
There must be a gap of at least 3 mm between the plates.
The bottom strapping must be covered with a sheet.
With a two-story building, the sheet must necessarily go onto the rack of two floors, this will give greater rigidity to the structure.
Sheathing of window openings is performed with a whole sheet, which allows all joints to be taken out to adjacent racks. Window openings are simply cut neatly.
For fastening, it is best to use spiral nails or self-tapping screws.

It is worth noting that when sheathing a frame house from the outside, experts follow certain rules:

fixing the plates in the intermediate sections is fixed at a distance of 300 mm; the joints of the plates are fixed every 150 mm;
for every 100 mm, the outer side is stitched;
to prevent splitting of the material, fasteners must be located at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the product;
the slab should be fixed both horizontally and vertically, this will give greater strength and reliability to the building.

Internal finishing of the building

The cladding of a frame house inside OSB with slabs practically does not differ from drywall. The only thing is that when fixing the plates, you must use strong fasteners, because the slab weighs more than drywall. For installation, use a wooden frame and 50 mm self-tapping screws. After fixing the products, they can be sanded and primed.

For information! The boards can be laid as a floor covering to obtain durable coating it is necessary to place the panels perpendicular to the lags.

In addition to priming and painting, products can be treated with absolutely any facing material.

Varnish. The technology of use is the same as for flooring.
Paint. Water-based paints and varnishes are ideal because they are best able to transmit steam and provide a good indoor climate. As a rule, paints are used for ordinary wood.

Important! The use of water-based paints and varnishes will deform the slab.

Wallpaper is glued only after thorough priming of the surface, using wallpaper glue with the addition of PVA.
Plaster. Sheets can be plastered, for this they use a mixture for internal work.

Sheathing a house with an OSB product is the best and inexpensive option. building material, capable of improving performance and improving the appearance of the building.

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