How to make metal doors with your own hands. Metal door with a window and decor using cold forging technique

Nowadays, finding a metal door to your liking is not at all difficult. However, some owners, feeling confident in their abilities, make the front door on their own. Usually this is due to the desire of a person to create something different from other samples according to his requirements, or maybe using specific materials or geometric and design requirements. Anyway, the creation of metal front door do it yourself deserves a separate mention.

Material and tools

This business may not be the easiest one, but if you have the necessary skills, you can take it up. The more competent the owner, the less time he will spend on work. In order for the process to proceed successfully and without any special problems, you will need following tools and materials:

Steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5mm and more;

Metal corner;

Door hinges (selected according to the number determined by the strength of the hinges themselves and the power of the door);

Lock, doorhandle, peephole and other details;

Sheathing material (veneer, plywood, board - depends solely on your preference);

Construction foam;

Anchor bolts;

Welding machine;

Grinder with a disc for metal;

Welding table or trestle for ease of work.

The list is only approximate, since the creation of a door is partly a creative process, and the design of the door can vary depending on the author's idea.

Creating a door frame

Before getting started, you need to know the exact dimensions of the doorway. And not just accurate, but complete. That is, a layer of plaster or door trim is an obstacle that must be removed before you reach the concrete or brick end of the wall. You need to get to the real wall material in all four directions, so knock down the plaster or make a cut in the frame with a hammer and chisel.

Usually standard sizes doorways range from 800-900mm in width and 2000mm in height, but in any particular case, the parameters may be non-standard.

When you have the exact dimensions of the doorway, the dimensions door frame immediately become clear. The door frame should be placed in the opening so that there is a gap of 20mm on all sides. This value is enough to correctly install the door in the event of a skewed opening. After the completion of the work, this gap will be filled with polyurethane foam.

The first thing to do is to cut a corner of the required length according to the size of the future box (the length of the shelves can be 50x25mm) and put it on a plane (the cooking table is best suited) in the form rectangular... You can check the corners of the future door frame for "straightness" by measuring the length of the diagonals. If they are equal, you can start welding the corners.

Making a door leaf (video)

Before starting the manufacture of the door leaf, the frame is first made. The frame is made on the basis that there should be a gap between it and the door frame, equal in general to 20mm in height and 15mm in width. The correct distribution of the gaps on all four sides will be shown below. Next, a corner of the required length is used (for this case, a corner of 40x25mm is suitable), with which a rectangle is also laid out, and welding begins.

It will be necessary with the help of a grinder to cut a cutout for the lock in the profile. Hammer wood slats of the required length into the frame, so that later it will be easier to trim the door. The next step is to weld the hinge profile to the hinges themselves and the door frame. This will make welding easier.

The distance between the hinges is carefully measured, both on the frame and on the door frame, since an exact match is needed. After that, we put the frame inside the box and make sure that everything is parallel to each other.

And here's the most important step - making the door leaf. A part of it is cut out of a sheet of steel, which will overlap the opening by 1 cm on each side, except for the one where the lock is. This side should overlap by 1.5cm.

It is important to remove any dross remaining on the edge of the sheet after cutting.

Now we lay the sheet so that the upper and lower edges of the box protrude 10mm, from the side of the lock by 5mm, from the side of the awnings by 15mm. At several points, the sheet begins to stick to the box.

Next, we turn the box over, and our sheet is at the bottom. The door frame, meanwhile, is inside the box. It's time to set the gaps between the door frame and the frame. From the threshold, this distance will be 10mm, as well as from above. On the side where the lock is, it is 8mm, and where the hinges are - 7mm.

To fix the gaps, you can use various tools at hand, such as metal strips of different thicknesses.

It's time to weld the frame to the sheet. The seam itself should not be longer than 40mm, and the distance between the beginnings of the seams is about 200mm. Welding is carried out from the middle to the edges with different sides, a reverse step is used. If the future door starts to get very hot, give it time to cool down.

Installing door hinges

Before starting the installation of the hinges, the future door must be raised above the cooking table. Pieces of a profile or pipe will help with this, on which the product can be placed.

For the manufacture of loops, a 20 mm steel bar is taken. To make the hinges work better, a ball from a steel bearing is placed in them. Then the loops are assembled and fixed, while you need to make sure that everything is accurately correlated with each other. Once you are sure that there is a clear match everywhere, the hinges are welded to the box and the canvas.

The top of the hinge will be welded to the sheet, the bottom will be welded to the box. After welding the hinges, you need to cut off the tacks that attached the sheet to the box.

Now all that remains is to clean out the welds and paint the finished door - and it will be ready.

Lock place

The door frame corner shelf is where the cutout for the lock will be made. Moreover, the cutout should be made so that the lock fits there without the slightest gap. As soon as you can put the lock in place, you will need to make markings for the mounting holes, the places where the key will be inserted, for the handle, and others. Holes of the required size will be drilled according to the marking.

Along the perimeter of the door, holes are made for 4 mm screws, which with inside boards will be attached. One of these boards should have a lock cutout. The length of the screws is selected within 35-40mm.

Cutouts for the latch and various latches are created only after installing the box and with the door hinged, then the peephole.

Finishing work

Not all owners will agree to stop there. After all, you can decorate the door and give it an attractive appearance... For cladding, you can use wooden slats, soft material or plain film with wood grain texture. Of course, painting is the easiest option of all. It allows for welding decorative wrought-iron elements from above to the door.

Photo gallery of metal doors with upholstery

The original finish with metal plates combined with a bronze painting - a reference to the Middle Ages Traditional faux leather upholstery always gives the front door a warm feel Soft padding gives a seemingly rigid door some softness

In addition to the fact that you will significantly save money, you will also gain invaluable experience, which can become a starting point for creating something even more complex and interesting.

Entrance doors should not only be beautiful, but also durable, as well as warm and reliable. This combination of qualities is given by metal doors. Only not all of those on the market can boast of reliability - many of the inexpensive ones can be literally opened. kitchen knife... Really beautiful and reliable steel doors are very expensive. If you have a welding machine and some welding skills, you can make an iron door yourself. Even taking into account the cost of purchasing materials, it will be 30-50% cheaper.

What is necessary

We will be an entrance iron door from shaped pipe and sheet metal... For work, you will need a flat work surface, a welding machine, a drill, a grinder, it’s nice to have something to measure - a carpenter's square, for example.

Standard metal doors. Approximately this is what we will do

Of the materials you will need:

profiled pipe 40 * 40 mm, 40 * 20 mm;
sheet of metal with a thickness of 2 mm, the size of door leaf;
metal hinges are strong enough to withstand a weight of about 100 kg;

To "ennoble" the door, you will need paint for metal (preferably hammer enamel), a wooden lath, insulation (polystyrene or mineral wool), plywood, OSB or other similar material, plastic or any other finishing material, peephole, lock.

Cook the doors

First, we cook the door frame. We make it from a profiled pipe 40 * 40 mm. Cut off pieces to size. If there is rust on the pipe, clean it. We fold the clean blanks, set the corners, grab them together.

After welding, we check the corners, measure the diagonals. If there is even the slightest deviation, we correct it (hitting the floor with an angle usually helps, the main thing is not to overdo it).

We weld on the hinges. We retreat from the bottom and top by about 20 cm, mark, cook, making sure that they are on the same straight line. The laser level is very useful here, and if it is not there, you have to measure the distances many times in order to set it accurately.

We weld everything, check the diagonals, try on. If everything is normal, you can weld on the cross members - to increase the rigidity of the door leaf. We make them from the remains of a 40 * 20 mm pipe.

We clean all the welding places, removing the beads - everything should be even and smooth. You can grind off the excess with a file, but faster - with the corresponding disc on the grinder.

So that the frame does not "bend" and then there is a place for the installation of the sealing rubber, we raise the frame by welding the metal plates.

The frame inside the frame is set at the desired level (we check with a level or level so that everything is in the same plane), we weld the reciprocal loops.

We put a sheet of metal on the finished frame, mark it. It should go 3-10 mm over the door frame pipe. Only from the side of the hinges, the approach should be 3-5 mm, on the other sides it is possible more. We expose the sheet from the side of the hinges, mark the cutting line, cut it off with a grinder.

After cutting, we process burrs and other irregularities with a file - to an even edge. To speed up the process, you can use a grinder with an emery wheel. Then we lay out the sheet as it should be and lightly grab the frame to the frame, the sheet - also to the frame (not to the frame). The entire structure must be turned over, but it is difficult to do it differently.

We turn over almost finished metal doors and boil the sheet along the perimeter of the frame, then to the intermediate stiffeners. There is no need to make continuous seams - tightness is not needed, we weld in small sections at equal distances. At the same time, we make sure that the pure does not "lead".

Cut off the welded frame from the door frame, turn the doors over and free the welded sheet from the tacks. We clean the places of the former welding. Now the locks can be installed.

Warming and finishing

Next, we are engaged in insulation. Styrofoam with a thickness of 4 cm becomes well into the welded frame of the iron door. We take it of low or medium density, since there will be no load on it. These metal doors took 4 sheets of 1 * 1 m in size.

We cut the PP to size, take a polyurethane foam with a weak expansion (if you take a regular one, the foam will displace it). Having retreated from the edge about 1 cm, we apply it around the perimeter of the rectangle in which we put the foam, we make a few more strips of foam in the middle, we put the insulation. The remaining gaps between the PP and the pipe are also passed through with foam.

It is also possible to glue the insulation on a universal glue that is suitable for metal and polystyrene, for example, "Moment".

To save money, it was decided to use the sheet of oriented strand board available on the farm. Budget finishing is planned - self-adhesive film. As it turned out, this pair is very poorly combined - OSB putty took a lot of time. It would be much easier with plywood (moisture resistant, furniture).

A sheet of OSB is laid on top of the insulation, already made with our own hands. It is fixed around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. First, a hole is drilled under the self-tapping screw, then the fasteners are screwed in.

We drill mounting holes in the door frame - there are two of them on each segment. We paint the frame in a suitable color (enamel is taken in a spray can). The painted frame has to be taken out into the street somehow. V drilled holes we insert the long mounting screws, for them and drag it out into the street.

There is only one way out - to putty. We take the putty, spread it, wait until it dries, grind it. Then again - a layer of putty, again sanding. So - until the normal result.

On the second side, we also attach the OSB, but already putty and sanded in advance - it's easier this way. We cut out the holes for the eye-pens, try on everything. Next, we begin to glue the film. In our stores, the widest one is - 90 cm, the doors are clearly wider. Therefore, it was decided to make a finish with an imitation of a panel, for which a rubber self-adhesive furniture molding was purchased.

The film will be glued "curly"

We find the center on the door, set aside 45 cm in both directions, outline a strip. The center strip of the film will be glued here. We wet the surface with water (spray from a spray bottle), carefully, without bubbles, glue the film.

We cut off the missing pieces, we also glue them. We close the joints of the canvases with a molding.

All that remains is to install the handmade metal doors in place. They are installed at the entrance from the covered veranda to the house.

The doors look good. They turned out to be very heavy, cannot be compared with the store ones. Most of the time was spent on finishing. If you choose another option, it will be much faster.

Tools and materials

Manufacturing metal door do it yourself really refers to budget option: creating a product yourself will be much cheaper than buying finished structure... Certainly to make a truly functional and stylish door, it is necessary to own the tool and have some experience in welding.

In addition, you will need competent blueprints, high-quality materials and professional tools... Let's list the main components that are used in the process of creating a metal door composition:

Photo: door perimeter seal

The list of the above materials and tools required to create a metal door is approximate: the final solution depends on the type and functional value of the future structure. For example, when making a vestibule or entrance door, it is best to purchase a thick metal sheet. You can also use two sheets of metal: in this case, the space between them must be filled with insulation.

A metal workbench table will be very useful

Another interesting material for making a door, although not an entrance one, is.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

The creation of a metal door consists of four main stages: the manufacture of the frame, the production of the metal sheet, the installation of fittings and the sheathing of the product. A typical door structure is two meters high and 90 cm wide.

Consider the features of working on creating a metal door:

Frame ... It is necessary to start making the frame after all measurements have been taken. The dimensions of the door frame must be optimal: the metal frame must harmoniously fit into doorway, so a 2 cm gap should be left on each side.

Canvas ... It is also necessary to leave gaps between the frame and the metal sheet, while the sheets should protrude slightly from the edges of the frame. It is necessary to carry out welding work small plots... The seams are made no more than 4 cm in length, while the distance between adjacent seams should not exceed 20 cm.

Fittings ... For the production of loops, steel rods with a diameter of 2 cm are used.The loops are welded to the canvas and metal frame simultaneously. Professionals recommend carrying out mandatory anti-corrosion treatment of the product: with its help, the door will serve for more than a dozen years.
Cladding ... You can use any material you like: vinyl leather, PVC film, artificial leather, leatherette and others.

The main steps in making a metal door with your own hands:

Measure the opening and leave about 2 cm from the walls to the box in order to eliminate all cracks with foam. In addition, such a gap will correct the door installation in the event of a skewed opening.

Cut a metal corner according to the selected dimensions (approximate dimensions - 50x25 mm) and place it on the welding table. Measure the length of the diagonals of the rectangle: they must be equal. Welding can only be started if all dimensions are the same. This is how the door frame is made.

Measure the finished box along the inside, taking into account the 1 cm gap on each side of the structure around the perimeter. Cut a corner with dimensions of 40 * 25 cm for the canvas. In the lock profile, use a grinder to make a small slot at the level that is optimal for installing the lock.
At the same time, wooden slats of optimal dimensions are hammered into the metal profile. This is done to simplify the facing work.

Also, for the convenience of welding, it is recommended to immediately weld the loop profile to the metal box and hinges. It is necessary to ensure a perfect match of the hinges and the door frame: for this, the distance between them is carefully checked. Subject to of this condition hanging the door will be easy.

It is necessary to check: whether the profiles of the door leaf and the frame are parallel, after which the remaining profiles of the door leaf are inserted and welded into the latter.
Then a sheet of metal is welded. First, the canvas is measured: on each side, the door should be closed by 10 mm, while on both sides of the lock - 15 mm. The sheet is cut according to the dimensions taken into account, laid on the product from the profiles.

First, the loop is welded from the back of the sheet in the inner cavity, then the sheet is welded around the perimeter.
A false strip is welded on the inside of the metal sheet. For better strengthening door structure you can weld on special stiffening ribs.

Clean the welds and paint the product. It is recommended to paint the door even if you will later cover it. Additional coating will prevent corrosion.
Install two locks. To do this, a hole is drilled in the corner for the entry of the crossbar, then a slot is formed for fastening the lock in the metal sheet. You can also cut a hole for the door lock.

Carry out the door trim. It can be sheathed with planks or wood panels, glued PVC film, repeating the wood texture, or, for example, use leatherette. Many people simply paint the canvas and then weld interesting forged decorative elements to it. You can also use curly metal sheets or soft elements.

Material in the topic. Read directly in our review.

In the presence of welding machine and at least a little skill in working with it, it would be simply unreasonable to acquire a not very durable Chinese product. A self-made entrance metal door will become more reliable protection against burglary and bad weather. Let's describe in detail the process of its manufacture.

Required materials and tools

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Free tool 50% success

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a metal structure, you should prepare the necessary materials and tools for work.

We will need:

yardstick
carpenter's square for measurements;
metal corner for the door frame and door leaf frame; you can replace it with a 40x40 mm square pipe; for the manufacture of the inner frame of the box, stiffeners, pipes of a slightly smaller size 40x20 mm are used
metal sheets: you should not take too thin material, its thickness should leave at least 1.5-2 mm
welding machine
grinder or brush for cleaning welded seams
drill with drills
metal anchors or pieces of reinforcement for fastening the structure to the wall
screws, bolts
wrench suitable size for tightening bolts
screwdriver
door hinges capable of supporting the weight of a door weighing from 100 kg
patch lock
plywood, MDF, clapboard or laminate for decoration

Taking measurements

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Welding of a metal structure

Even when using standard drawings to assemble an iron door, you will need to take measurements. Perfectly flat, symmetrical doorways just doesn't exist. Therefore, it is necessary to be extremely careful when taking measurements.

One measurement will not be enough - you need to take measurements three times, and then choose the smallest number from the obtained. Measure the door leaf at the top, bottom, middle.

The height of the opening is determined in the same way. If the old doors have not yet been removed, it is easier to measure them.

In most cases, the width of the canvas is a multiple of 10 cm - its width can be 70, 80 or 90 cm. Please note that the size of the future opening should be 1.5-2 cm smaller sizes the opening itself. The remaining slots are subsequently filled with polyurethane foam. After all, it will be difficult to insert and perfectly align a door cut to the exact size of the doorway.

Immediately determine in which direction they will open. According to SNiP, the entrance doors must necessarily open outward, so that in the event of an evacuation or transfer of a sick person, it can be opened unhindered. In this case, it will also be possible to save useful hallway space.

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How to correctly measure the width of the opening

The opening side is selected taking into account comfort and convenience. Traditionally, doors are made right-handed, so that at the entrance they can be opened with right hand... But this option can be changed according to specific circumstances.

After all, the door should open so as to occupy a minimum of free space, without interfering. V apartment buildings the location of adjacent doors is also taken into account.

Door frame

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So, we will describe in detail how to make an iron door yourself:

1 After cutting a metal corner or pipe according to the specified dimensions, it is necessary to fold a rectangle from the obtained parts on a flat surface or a welding table, rechecking its dimensions.

2 No need to cut 45 ° corners. The metal strips are simply butt-joined.

Metal strips are joined end-to-end

3 From a corner with a smaller size of shelves we weld inner frame... The distance between it and the frame is 3-5 mm.

4 Stiffeners are welded from the same corner - segments inserted into the frame.

5 Do not forget to thoroughly grind all seams with a sander, special abrasive fiber, brush or pickle them with a seam cleaner. Otherwise, the smallest remnants of metal, and behind it, the metal corner itself will immediately begin to rust. It is more convenient to grind large nodules with a grinder or a file.

6 Quite a common mistake of novice welders is the connection of frame parts immediately clean, "tightly". This is by no means necessary - most likely, the frame will have to be trimmed. Therefore, at first you should only "grab" the metal corners, and then adjust assembled frame doors building level not only horizontally and vertically, but at the corners and both diagonals.

7 Check that all parts fit exactly 90 °. The final welding can only be started after leveling.

Frame with inner frame

8 The next step is to drill holes for anchors, attach the hinges. At the same stage, holes are prepared for the crossbars of the locks.

9 Small metal plates are welded to it to attach the sealing rubber and protect the frame from deflections.

10 Steel eyelets can be welded to the frame or through mounting holes can be provided to insert the frame into the doorway.

Finished door frame

Door leaf

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The height and width of its frame must match the size of the door frame minus 5 mm on each side for the free movement of the door.
After cutting the sheets (this can be done with a grinder), we clean the edges from the burr with a file or grinder with emery.
The metal sheets are attached to the frame in such a way that they protrude 10 mm at the top, bottom and from the side of the lock. The allowance on the hinge side is made slightly smaller - 3-5 mm.
After "grabbing" the sheets, we check the correctness of fastening, and then we weld the seams completely. If the sheets did not lead, proceed to the final welding. First, we "sew" them to the main frame, and then we attach them to the intermediate stiffeners. There is no point in making continuous seams - it is enough to weld the sheets in small pieces.
The cut-out for inserting the lock must be provided even before the sheathing.
At the same stage, a wood frame can be attached to the door leaf for fixing the finish. For this, holes are drilled in the right places in the metal.

Single sheet metal door construction

Connecting the door leaf to the frame

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Just as with the previous assembly, the seams should first be "tacked" by welding. The final connection is carried out only after checking the correctness of the installation.
We drill holes for inserting the key and, if necessary, an eyelet.
To fasten the hinges, it is necessary to retreat from the bottom and top of the door by 20 cm.
We raise the door (it is more convenient to do this together). We fix the awnings in such a way that the lower elements (pins are attached to them) are attached to the box, and the upper ones, called counterparts, to the door leaf.
All loops should be located strictly along the same axis. This is not easy - you will have to take measurements many times. Otherwise, in the event of an error, the door will twist.
It is better to hang a massive door not on 2, but 3 hinges.
Lubricate them immediately so that the door opens easily and does not creak.

Entrance metal structure

Even if the door is further upholstered or trimmed decorative panels, it should be treated with an anti-corrosion compound or painted. For painting metal it is better to use the so-called "hammer" enamel made on an alkyd-styrene base.

Warming

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Insulate an iron door welded from metal can be expanded polystyrene, foam or mineral wool. When using foam, 4 cm thick sheets are enough. Too much density of the material is not needed - after all, the load on it will be small. You will need to purchase 4 square sheets 1 m wide.

At the time of buying polyurethane foam choose a composition with a minimum expansion, otherwise, the foam will simply squeeze out. We apply it around the perimeter of the frame, slightly stepping back from the edges. Next, the foam is laid. All seams between sheets, gaps between foam and metal corner also should be sealed with foam. You can replace it with Moment glue or any other suitable adhesive.

Insulation installation

Have mineral wool or stone wool there is a significant disadvantage- these materials are capable of absorbing moisture. A metal door with a similar type of insulation will quickly rust. For apartment buildings this is not critical - there is not so much moisture in the entrances. But it is highly discouraged to insulate the street door with mineral wool.

If in the future the door will get off self-adhesive film, it is not worth covering the insulation with a chipboard. Any irregularities will be immediately visible. Replace Chipboard furniture moisture resistant plywood. It is attached to the metal with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes.

Metal door, covered with foil, trimmed with molding

You can decorate a door covered with a film with a molding - decorative strips made of metal or polymer materials painted wood, stone, silver or gold.

Inserting a metal door into the opening

Install massive metal structure one is unrealistic. You will need an assistant.

Dismantling the old door

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Before installation iron doors the old door leaf should be removed from the hinges. To do this, put a crowbar under its bottom, raise the structure and remove it from its hinges. Some types of hinges have to be unscrewed. This must be done starting from the bottom.
At the old metal door, after dismantling the slopes, it is necessary to find the places for its attachment. For this, plaster is knocked off in the area of the proposed anchors or reinforcement. All metal parts are cut off with a grinder, and then the old box is taken out.
The usual wooden box it is easier to remove. It is enough to cut the side racks in the center, and then, prying them with a crowbar, pull them out of the opening.
All pieces of brick and putty that have fallen off should be knocked down. The resulting voids are sealed with new bricks, and then covered up cement mortar... Small potholes will fill with foam in the future, so you can leave them alone for now.
Significant protrusions are knocked down with a hammer or cut off with a grinder.
Pay attention to the condition of the nut. In old houses in these places they install wooden bar... If it is damaged, the bar needs to be replaced. You can check its safety with an awl. Stick it into the wood and try to loosen it. If this can be done easily, the bar has become unusable.

Dismantling the door frame

Door insert

1 It is more convenient to mount it with the door leaf removed from the hinges.

2 The frame is placed on pads with a height of 2 cm. With their help, the structure will be leveled. If no mistakes were made when welding the front door, and all measurements were carried out correctly, it should enter the opening freely.

3 We check the horizontal and vertical position of the structure with a bubble or laser level. When checking vertically, you can use a plumb line - a weight suspended from the side.

4 After alignment, wedge the door frame using wooden or special plastic wedges. They are located closer to the fasteners. There should be three of them on the sides, two on the top.

5 Again we check with a level whether we accidentally moved the frame to the side.

6 There are two ways to fix metal doors. In the first case, the lugs must be welded to the frame. If the walls are not thick enough, they do in the box through holes, into which anchors or small pieces of reinforcement will be inserted.

Door fastening methods

7 To install anchors or reinforcement in the wall, you need to prepare holes with a depth of 30 cm. The size of the drill must match the diameter of the fastener. On it, you can mark the drilling depth using masking tape.

Installation of anchors

8 After inserting the anchors or reinforcement, they are additionally driven in with a hammer. If you need to slightly move the fasteners, a screwdriver is inserted between it and the wall, tapping on it with a hammer.

9 Fastening starts from the hinge side. Then, two fasteners are inserted from above, from below and one from the side of the lock. Do not tighten the anchor too much - the door frame may need to be adjusted.

10 We check with a level whether we have displaced it when hammering in fasteners.

11 We hang the door leaf. Checking its progress. If there are distortions, cracks, jamming of the locks, it will have to be removed and re-align the location of the box horizontally and vertically.

12 If the door leaf is installed correctly, it must be removed again and finally tightened the anchor. First, the bolts are tightened from the side of the hinges, then from the side of the lock. The last - bottom and top.

13 After the final attachment of the web, its progress is re-checked.

14 To create a reliable sound and heat insulation barrier, all the gaps between the door frame and the wall are filled with foam. Its expansion coefficient should be minimal - it is easier to work with such a solution.

15 Excess foam should be wiped up immediately with a damp cloth. If you hesitate a little, it will be problematic to erase it after 5 minutes - the surface of the door will have to be scraped.

Iron doors provide reliable protection living quarters. Having the skills of carrying out locksmith and welding works, you can independently make a door from a profile pipe.

Materials for work:

20 running meters profiled pipe with a section of 2x4 cm or 2.5x5 cm for a door block,
sheet of metal 90-100 cm wide and 200 cm high, 2-2.5 cm thick,
corners or metal profiles,
three ball hinges for metal doors,
anchor bolts,
door furniture,
mineral wool or expanded polystyrene for door leaf insulation,
facing materials: OSB-plates, plywood, wooden panels, leatherette,
you can decorate with cards,
self-tapping screws, glue, foam assembly,
paint, primer, composition for anti-corrosion treatment.

Required tools:

Main steps

Creating a door frame. The structure will be easier to mount if you leave a gap of 15-20 mm between the frame and the wall of the opening. This will allow you to set the door level and correct any unevenness in the opening. The gap is then filled with polyurethane foam.
Fabrication of the canvas. The metal sheet should protrude slightly beyond the edges of the frame. Welding is done in parts. The length of the seams, in order to avoid deformations, should be up to 4 cm. The distance between the seams should be 15-20 cm.
Installation of locks and handles. Metal surfaces treated with a protective anti-corrosion agent. Often, as use progresses, it may be necessary to replace the lock cylinder, in which case you need to contact the professionals.
Door trim.

Sequence of work

We shoot old door... We measure the doorway, leaving the necessary gaps. We cut metal corners 2.5x5 cm in size, put them on the welding table.

The diagonals of the rectangle must be equal. We weld parts of the door frame. We measure inner space boxes, leaving 10 mm around the entire perimeter. We cut the corners of 2.5 x 4 cm for the canvas. In the place of the future location of the castle, we make a slot with a grinder.

V metallic profile we hammer wooden lath... This will further simplify the cladding.

We immediately weld the loop profile to the box and hinges. The hinges must be in perfect alignment with the door frame. Also, the profiles of the canvas and the box must be strictly parallel.

We put in the box and weld the rest of the profiles of the canvas.
We cut the metal sheet in accordance with the required parameters (the protrusion beyond the edges of the canvas should be 10 mm, in the locking part - 15 mm), put on top of the product from the profiles.
We begin to cook in the area of the hinges from the back of the sheet, then continue welding along the entire perimeter.
We weld the strip in place of the vestibule from the inside.
We clean all the seams, paint the door. Painting will become additional protection from the appearance of rust.
We insert locks, preferably two at once for greater reliability.
We trim the door at our discretion.