Small Russian stove. Russian stove with fireplace and stove bench

The Russian stove (oven) is a unique structure of our ancestors, which not only heats, but also feeds, heals, and also ventilates the room. With multiple variations in the details of the form, its main components remain unchanged. In the article we will look at the design of the Russian stove and its row masonry.

Even before the introduction modern system measurements traditional sizes Russian stoves were calculated in arshins. 1 arshin is approximately equal to 71 cm. The width of the stove was 2 arshins, the length was 3, and the height of the main body of the stove from the base of the stove to the stove bench was 2.5 arshins.

Design of a Russian (oven) stove

There are three main components in the furnace:

Foundation.
Frame.
Chimney.

Foundation

Our ancestors used rubble stone or reheated brick to construct the foundation. Without departing far from the traditions of the past, we will consider the option of a rubble concrete foundation for the furnace body.

The depth of the foundation for the furnace depends on the properties of the soil, whether the building is heated in cold period time, what is the groundwater level. In the case of inconsistent heating of the building, the depth of the base of the foundation is provided below the depth of soil freezing in the coldest time.

1 - base of the foundation; 2 - rubble masonry; 3—backfill depth; 4 - waterproofing; 5 — floor level; 6 - furnace array

Rubble concrete consists of a concrete mixture and rubble stone. For the foundation it is enough to use concrete mixture M200. Concrete mixture M200 is obtained with the following composition:

cement M400 - 1 part;
sand - 2 parts;
gravel or crushed stone fraction less than 3 cm - 4 parts.

To make concrete, sand is taken with a minimum amount of organic, clay, dust, and mica impurities, which significantly reduce the strength and frost-resistant properties of concrete.

Water is poured into the dry mixture of cement, sand and gravel gradually, with constant stirring of the ingredients until the required mobility of the mixture is achieved. In this case, the volume of water is approximately equal to the volume of cement taken.

The foundation for the furnace can be constructed either using formwork or without formwork in dense, non-crumbling soils and the depth of the foundation base is less than 1.25 m. In the case of a formless device, the size of the pit must correspond to the size of the foundation. Under the base of the foundation it is necessary to lay a layer of compacted crushed stone at least 10 cm thick.

Rubble concrete masonry is the process of embedding rubble stone into a layer of laid concrete layer 20 cm high. The rubble stone should be less than 30 cm, it is immersed in the concrete layer to a depth of more than 1/2 of its height. The gap between the stones being laid, as well as between the stone and the formwork, is 4-6 cm. When the layer of rubble is completely laid, it is laid next layer concrete and the process of embedding the stone is repeated.

To achieve full quality concrete works breaks in the process of laying the foundation are allowed only when the gaps between the stones are filled with concrete of the last layer. In dry, windy or hot weather, when there are breaks in work for more than a day, to prevent rapid drying, the surface of the concrete is covered with some material (possibly roofing felt) and moistened with water 3-4 times a day. Before resuming work, the surface of the last layer is cleaned of contamination and moistened with water.

Rubble stone can be replaced with fragments of red brick or pieces of concrete, and crushed brick can be used as a filler for the concrete mixture. Before immersing them in the concrete mixture, stones and brick fragments must be thoroughly cleaned of contaminants. In dry and hot weather, when using broken bricks, the fragments are soaked in water before laying.

The time it takes for concrete to gain strength depends on its temperature. At a temperature of 10 ° C in the first day it will gain approximately 10% of its full strength, in 7 days approximately 60%, and in 28 days - 85%. As the temperature of concrete increases, the time it takes for it to fully gain strength is reduced. It is necessary to start bricklaying on the surface of the foundation no earlier than 14-28 days later.

Furnace body

In a Russian hut, the stove was installed in the corner not far from the door. The distance from one wall was approximately 20 cm, and from the other, where the front door was located, approximately 1 meter. A closet was often set up in this place, where food and kitchen utensils were stored.

On the surface of the foundation, which has gained strength, 2 layers of waterproofing material (roofing felt, roofing felt, etc.) are laid. Next, the base of the furnace (guardianship) is laid out. In the classic Russian stove of the past they used wooden beam or a log.

1 - underbowl; 2 - undercoat; 3 - pole; 4 - under; 5 - choke; 6 - ceiling; 7 — half-door; 8 - valve; 9 - chimney pipe

The subfloor served for storage kitchen utensils, and equipment for the stove (grips, pokers, frying pans) was placed in the oven. Nowadays this part of the furnace is laid out mainly from bricks (ordinary clay). Moreover, you need to use a full-bodied one. Brick can be faced or ordinary. The front one is used for cladding, the ordinary one is used for the internal masonry of the furnace. For surfaces in contact with open fire, it is necessary to use fireclay bricks that can withstand temperatures of more than 1300 °C.

Clay-sand solution

The amount of sand in the clay-sand solution is determined depending on the fat content of the clay (fat - 2-4% sand, medium - 15% sand, lean - 30% sand). To achieve the highest quality masonry, sand must be taken sifted through a sieve with 3x3 mm cells.

Proportions of clay-sand solution:

Fatty clay: 1 bucket of clay, 2.5 buckets of sand.
Medium clay: 1 bucket of clay, 1.5 buckets of sand.
Skinny clay: 1 bucket of clay, 1 bucket of sand.

To prepare the solution, place several buckets of crushed clay in a container and fill it with water for 24 hours. Then the required amount of sand is added to the soaked clay in portions, constantly stirring until a homogeneous consistency.

Tools for furnace work

1 - square; 2 - pickaxe; 3 - furnace hammer; 4 — level; 5 - ruler; 6 - trowel; 7 - plumb line

Materials

The structure of the guardhouse itself is made of ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar based on M400 cement, in the proportion: 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. The required mobility of the solution can be checked by placing part of it on the bayonet of a shovel at an angle of 45°. In this position, the prepared solution should not drain. Before laying, the bricks are soaked for better adhesion to the mortar.

For the entire furnace structure, approximately 1,500 to 2,500 bricks will be required, including refractory bricks, depending on the height of the room and the roof structure. Consumption of clay and sand in solution is about 80 buckets. The stove fittings you will need are: views, latches and half-doors.

The view is installed between the heater and the pipe to block the passage of hot gases from the furnace to maintain heat in the furnace. At the location where the view is installed, an opening is made to accommodate a half-door, which can also be used as natural ventilation of the room.

Furnace dampers are necessary to cover the mouth, regulating the thermal process in the furnace.

The valve is installed above the view to regulate the draft in the pipe and prevent cold air from the pipe from falling down.

Orders

The first row is laid on the waterproofing of the foundation. In the corners, bricks of 3/4 size and beveled bricks are used for better binding of subsequent rows of masonry. The entire structure of the guardhouse is laid out on a cement-sand mortar.

The second row is the beginning of laying the walls of the guardhouse.

Third row. The construction of the walls of the guardhouse continues using 3/4 bricks.

The fourth row is laid out according to the given order and involves the use of beveled bricks for the support (heel) of the arch.

The fifth row is laid using 3/4 sized bricks in the corners of the oven, beveled bricks to support the arch. The arch support is also laid out here. A wooden template is pre-made, which is inserted into the opening of the backing.

The sixth row is laid out according to the given order. A wooden template for the arch of the guardianship is made in advance, which is inserted into inner part masonry During the template making process it is necessary to provide for its easy disassembly upon completion of the masonry of the arch of the guardianship. To ensure a tight fit of the template to the walls of the masonry, 1-2 spacers are driven in at the bottom.

The seventh row involves laying the arch and the subsequent row. They begin to lay out the vault on both sides, gradually moving towards the middle. The last brick is called the key brick; its role is to create compressive stress at the base of the arch, which will ensure the strength of such a structure. In this regard, the last brick is inserted into a gap of less than 1/4 brick using a mallet. The bricks in the vault are laid as closely as possible to each other, so the seams at the bottom are made as small as possible, and the upper gaps are made the same size, into which, if possible, brick fragments can be embedded.

The eighth row provides for one layer of masonry of the stove walls according to the given order with the arrangement of the cold stove area.

Ninth row. In addition to one row of walls, the walls of the stove are also laid out.

The tenth row completes the laying of the walls of the guardhouse. For better insulation from the cold part of the furnace from its hot part, the internal space is filled with dry calcined sand to the upper limit of this row.

The eleventh row covers the entire opening using additional and beveled bricks. From this series, the cement-sand mortar is replaced with clay-sand mortar.

The twelfth row begins the construction of the hot part of the furnace (underneath, hearth). Therefore, all surfaces in contact with fire must be made of fire-resistant bricks, the dimensions of which coincide with the dimensions of ordinary bricks. The surface of the hearth must be flat. To do this, it is polished using fine sand and brick, removing all the unevenness of the masonry. In addition, for the convenience of removing coals from the hearth, its surface is made with a slope towards the mouth.

The thirteenth row lays the cooking chamber and hearth. A mouth arc made of hardened metal is also installed here. A hardened steel wire attached to it is laid in the masonry.

The fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth rows line the walls of the crucible and the hearth.

The seventeenth row is the final one in the masonry of the mouth with an arched vault. At this stage, heels of beveled bricks are laid out, which serve as supports for the brick vault of the cooking chamber, and the formwork for the vault of the cooking chamber is inserted.

The eighteenth row is laid out according to the vault principle, which is described in the seventh row using clay-sand mortar and refractory bricks.

The nineteenth row involves building up the walls and arches of the pole.

The twentieth row continues to build up the walls, and also partially covers the hole above the pole, leaving a channel for the re-pipe. The internal space above the cooking chamber is filled with dry calcined sand.

The twenty-first row covers the crucible. The over-pipe channel is slightly reduced to accommodate a protrusion that prevents sparks from penetrating from the cooking space into the pipe. This is where the laying of the samovar channel begins.

The twenty-second row completes the roof structure. A choke is installed in the channel of the samovar. The steel wire on its sleeve is embedded in the masonry.

The twenty-third row involves laying a channel of the overpipe and a samovar. The choke is also attached here using tempered steel wire. In this row, a small opening is made to remove soot from the protrusion of the channel, which is covered with 1/2 of a brick placed on an edge and coated with clay mortar. During cleaning, this brick is knocked out, and at the end of cleaning it is replaced with a new one. Nowadays, a special metal plug is often installed instead of a brick.

The twenty-fourth row is a continuation of the laying of the above channels.

Twenty-fifth row. In this row, a channel is allocated for installing a view.

The twenty-sixth row involves building up the choke channel, then the overpipe channel is blocked and a view is installed.

The twenty-seventh row is laid out as shown in the order. To access the view, a half-door is installed opposite it.

The twenty-eighth, twenty-ninth and thirtieth rows involve further laying of channels with ligation of the seams.

The thirty-first row, according to the order, connects the air vent and the pipe through a narrow passage.

The thirty-second row covers the air vent and the channel connecting the air vent to the pipe. A valve for the tube is also installed here above the pipe channel.

The thirty-third and subsequent rows up to the ceiling involve laying a pipe channel.

Not reaching three rows to the ceiling, cutting is done to increase the thickness of the brickwork. This increases the fire safety of wooden floor and roof structures. Next, the pipe riser is laid out in the same dimensions as before cutting. To avoid the accumulation of condensate on the pipe walls, the pipe riser is plastered over a metal mesh. When the pipe passes through wooden structures roofs, the thickness of the channel walls also increases. The upper part of the pipe must be protected from precipitation with a metal cap. The outer part of the pipe is laid using cement-sand mortar. For strength it can be plastered.

1 - cutting; 2 - overlap; 3 - insulation; 4 — pipe riser; 5 - metal sheet; 6 - otter; 7 - pipe neck; 8 — head; 9 - metal cap

The height of the outer part of the pipe to improve traction depends on its distance relative to the roof ridge.

Furnace-drying furnace

Before full use of the oven, it must be dried. The first fire is carried out for 2 hours with a small amount of fuel. If the stove produces a lot of smoke, then a small fire is also lit on the view; when it goes out, the view is opened completely. After this, the stove is lit again without closing the chimney at night. The firing-drying process lasts about a week.

Despite total electrification and gasification, Russian stoves can still be found in private homes, not only in villages, but also in cities. The range of its application is quite wide. The Russian stove not only directly heats the room. You can also cook food on it, dry things, and just lie down on cold winter evenings. Thanks to this, the Russian stove continues to remain so popular to this day. It is quite possible to build it with your own hands, but this requires, of course, a certain amount of knowledge. If you are not sure about own strength, it would be better to turn to professional craftsmen.

What is good about the Russian stove?

Let's note one point. In fact, Russian stoves can be different. In particular, they are distinguished, for example, by size, into:

small;
average;
big.

Let us warn you right away - the process of building it is quite complicated.

Before starting such work, you first need to study the features of such a structure and understand its features. Generally speaking, the following departments should be present in a Russian oven:

cold stove;
underbake;
pole;
cooking chamber (furnace)
overpipe;
bed;
view.

Let's look at it a little more closely. The cold stove is designed for storing dishes. In principle, you can do without it - the decision in this case is made individually, taking into account other features of your project. Another department that not all Russian stoves have is the oven. Its main purpose is to dry firewood. Accordingly, baking is often abandoned due to its uselessness.

The pole is a niche located in front of the crucible. As a rule, a stove for cooking is installed here. In addition, the pole also serves to support desired temperature already prepared dishes. This use is possible if the stove is located somewhere else.

The bottom of the crucible is called the under. Install it with a slight slope towards the entrance to the cooking chamber. This advice has very useful practical significance. The inclined bottom makes it easy to move the dishes. Another important point is that the bottom surface will need to be thoroughly sanded.

The crucible is one of the main parts of the Russian stove. Firewood is placed here and dishes are placed. It should be noted that the roof of the furnace should have a slight slope towards the exit. This is necessary so that hot air accumulates under the ceiling, warming up the walls of the stove and the bed. The latter, by the way, is located above the crucible, behind the chimney. And finally, a view is a window with a door that serves to block the chimney. In addition, through the view it is possible to get to the damper responsible for regulating traction.

The above scheme is, one might say, classic. Modern Russian stoves are complemented by such elements as the above-mentioned cooking plate, as well as a tank designed for heating water. In order for the required temperature to be reached faster, the heating of the flood chamber is used. This, by the way, allows you to reduce the time required to speed up the process of heating the room.

The design of the Russian stove provides for the presence of several departments. Accordingly, in summer period, when there is no need to heat the room, it is used only for cooking. That is, only the hob is used. IN winter period As a rule, all departments are already warmed up.

How to make a Russian stove yourself

Preparatory work begins with choosing a location. This is one of the most important points, and there are many factors to consider, such as the material from which the walls of the house are made. In this case, we are talking, first of all, about safety. For example, if the walls are wooden, then there should be a distance of at least 20 centimeters between them and the stove. It is also recommended to take additional fire precautions. The most popular option is protection wooden walls houses using asbestos slabs.

In order to build a Russian stove with your own hands, you will need tools. In particular, you will need:

trowel or trowel;
building level;
hammer-pick;
plumb line;
rule;
measuring strip - it is used to measure the width of the seams;
ordering - this device allows you to maintain the verticality of the masonry.

In addition, you will need the following materials:

clay and sand for preparing the mixture;
fireproof and fireclay material;
grate;
wire (soft);
doors;
asbestos cord.

When building large furnaces, you cannot do without a foundation. This point is best taken into account when building a house. The best option here would be a monolithic reinforced concrete structure. Another important point. The foundation of the stove is an independent structure and is in no way connected with the support of the house itself. On at this stage everything must be done thoroughly. During the construction process, be sure to check the horizontalness of the foundation, because the reliability of the entire structure depends on this.

Once everything is ready, you can begin building the furnace itself. In order to do everything correctly, it is best to use a pre-drawn drawing. Most main point in the construction of the furnace - the correctness of the order. To ensure the safety of the structure, the masonry must be completely sealed. Accordingly, bricks with cracks are immediately rejected.

As a rule, the thickness of the seams between the rows is from 5 to 8 millimeters. Some people recommend using clay to improve sealing. However, in fact, by coating the inside of the stove walls with this material, you will only reduce thermal conductivity. In addition, clay promotes soot deposition.

It is recommended to soak ceramic bricks before laying. Thanks to this simple procedure, this material will then not absorb water from the solution. Thanks to soaking, they will dry out at the same time, and as a result, the tightness of the walls will be sufficiently high level. Now there is one more point that has important. The internal walls are laid out only in half brick. This is quite enough. The thing is that walls laid out in one brick will be thicker. Accordingly, the time required to warm them up will increase, and fuel consumption will become much greater.

Now let's look at such an important point as the order mentioned above. During the construction process, a certain scheme should be followed. In this case, all rows must be laid dry. Before you start laying, you need to outline the location of the walls - this is done with chalk, a corner and a ruler. Next, the bricks of the outer wall are laid. The work should begin with this. After this, the inner surface is filled.

It’s easy to guess that the strength of the entire structure depends on how the first row of bricks is laid. Therefore, while working, pay attention to this moment Special attention. The 2nd row is the beginning of laying the stove wall. Internal channels are also designed here for cleaning it.

When constructing the 3rd row, doors are installed for the cleaning and blowing chambers. Secure them with steel wire, the ends of which are then hidden in the seams between the bricks. 4th row - at this stage, the entrances to the internal channels are blocked with masonry. Here you should also be extremely careful and follow the drawing exactly.

When laying the 5th row, install a grate for a large firebox. The inside of the firebox is lined with fireclay bricks cut in half (according to thickness). In addition, a small firebox door is also installed. 6th row - at this stage a tank is installed for heating water. We also continue laying the firebox - refractory bricks are best suited for this.

The Russian stove is functional and performs many tasks. For this purpose, it is made in various design solutions and can be used both for heating the home and for preparing food, or to have a warm place in the form of a couch for relaxation.

It has a chimney, the channel of which occupies a large space of the stove, so heating of the surrounding space occurs quickly.

The elements of the Russian stove are:

Podpeche- This is a place intended for drying prepared firewood.
Pechurka– a place to place utensils and dishes.
Six- a platform in front of the furnace, intended for a pot pulled out of the oven.
Under– the base of the cooking chamber, located obliquely towards the mouth.
Crucible– This is a place for burning wood and cooking food.
Overpipe- the base of the chimney, located above the pole, above which there is a chimney.
View– cast iron plate for blocking the chimney channel.

To give a neat appearance, maintain dimensions and avoid distortions, it is necessary to control the execution of the masonry. For this purpose, during construction they use special devices, which are called ordering. They provide and allow you to control their vertical and horizontal direction.

Furnace diagram

Designations:

A– valve;
B– main chimney;
IN– parallel strokes;
G– door for cleaning;
D– hole for creating traction;
E– firebox door;
AND– grate bars;
TO– ash door;
L– under the fireboxes;
M– combustion chamber;

Order drawings

Simple oven

Scheme:

Drawings of the furnace laying order:

When laying the foundation, burnt bricks are used and cement mortar for its grip. A roofing material is first laid on the base of the floor, protecting the masonry from moisture.

Detailed description of the layout of each row:

1st row lay out dry solid brick directly onto roofing felt, which serves as waterproofing, and carefully adjust;
2nd: laid out in the shape of a well, leaving an oven space for storing tools and oven accessories.
3rd and 4th laid out according to the scheme of the second.
From 5th to 8th are devoted to laying out the vault with preliminary cutting of bricks to form the heels and creating formwork. In front and behind, the arch rests on the adjacent walls.
9th and 10th: space is created to accommodate dishes.
11th I form it by analogy with the tenth row, while the well formed above the arch is filled with dry sand. After compaction, it is given an inclined position towards the rear wall.
12th: flooring is carried out using hearth bricks, which are laid in dry sand.
From 13th to 16th: The formation of a hearth, a cooking chamber (crucible) with a mouth is performed. The masonry is carried out in triple brick quarters without interconnecting them. Under, lay out obliquely to the rear stove wall.
17th row is devoted to the design of the rear furnace wall, as well as the mouth, which follows the contour of the furnace. The sides of the stove are laid out in quarters, hewn at the top and intended to form heels. Then formwork is constructed for the vault, which will rest on the previously laid walls.
18th: the vault and adjacent walls are laid out.
19th: laid out in the shape of an arch, it begins to cover the space above the pole, they also continue to lay out the walls, thereby leveling the surface of the arch.
20th: carry out the laying, continuing to reduce the opening above the pole and.
21st: repeat the order of the 19th row.
22nd: finally level the surface above the arch and continue to reduce the opening. On the right, the cross-tubes are used to lay hewn bricks to ensure the unhindered passage of flue gases. In this area, a place is laid for placing a box, which is intended for the accumulation of soot.
From 23 to 32: lay out the overpipe, and in the 27th row at the same time arrange a backfill for the damper in the form of a metal plate. It is designed to block the chimney pipe and regulate draft. The internal size of the pipe opening is 26x26 cm.
From the 33rd row carry out pipe formation.

With a bed

With stove

Improved oven

The most popular Russian stove today is its improved version. It can provide the heating of the combustion chamber necessary for cooking food, while the entire oven does not heat up.

This is especially true in the summer, when there is no need to warm up the entire room. When burning wood in a small firebox, the flue gases are sent directly through the chimney. For rational use heat from passing flue gases, such a stove has a tank for heating water.

Designations:

A)– 1st row;
b)– 2nd row;
V)– 7th row;
1, 3 - supports;
2 – 1st row of chimney (main);
4 – ash pan of the stove;
5 – emphasis;

Some tips:

When laying furnace walls, to give them strength, it is necessary to perform bandaging of the seams, which consists of covering the seam of the previous row with a brick located above it.
When forming a gap for the damper, take into account the expansion of the metal when heated and make the size of the gap with a small margin.
In case of construction of a furnace operated in the summer, it is better to take a project with differentiated heating of the lower part of the stove for cooking.

Description

The standard order consists of a metal corner, the profile of which has a size of 60x60 mm, or a wooden strip with parameters of 5x7 cm, with divisions applied to them.

The length of the gap between the division notches is equal to the thickness of the brick used. With a standard brick size, it is 77 mm and consists of a joint thickness of 12 mm and a brick of 65 mm.

Orders can be up to 5 meters in length and are manufactured in the factory or independently. The divisions in the order are made in the form of simple serifs 3 mm deep or are indicated in the form of holes, which are used to tension the mooring cord.

It is made of a twisted cord and performs the function of controlling the straightness of the masonry and maintaining the level of the upper plane of the bricks in the row.

So that the stove maker can see the notches when performing work, the device is fixed on the outside of the wall with divisions inward.

The success of the masonry depends on the quality of the devices used and the accurate application of dimensions on them. The order is a kind of standard against which the laid out surface lines of the furnace are verified.

Required materials and tools

Before starting work, you should worry about purchasing the necessary materials:

Bricks with fireproof properties, for laying out surfaces in contact with fire.
Standard brick made of red clay.
Clay and river fine sand.
Cast iron components(doors, dampers, grate, valves, view, cooking plate).
Wooden boards and slats for laying out arched structures.

You will also need tools:

trowel (trowel) for capturing and applying the solution;
furnace hammer;
universal level;
plumb line;
order;
a sponge brush for wetting and smoothing seams;
sieve for sifting river sand;
tape measure and square;
drill;
mixer attachment for a drill for preparing a solution;
rubber mallet;
container for preparing the solution;
masonry diagram;

When you mention the Russian stove, associations arise with fairy tales and magic. And also - with incredibly tasty and aromatic dishes and a warm atmosphere. It is amazing that the fire of her simple hearth has not gone out even in our technological era. Thanks to the revival of individual construction, this wonderful heating unit is still held in high esteem by its owners today. country houses. Making it yourself, with detailed instructions at hand, will not be so difficult.

Why are Russian stoves so popular?

The incredible “survivability” of the Russian stove lies in its functionality - it is used both as a cooking unit and as a heating unit, and the latter, contrary to popular belief, is by no means the primary function. In its simplest form, the design is a very deep fireplace, essentially a large firebox with a chimney.

Russian stove of traditional design

Thanks to the thick walls and massive arch, the heat-storing ability of the Russian stove can be the envy of any other solid fuel unit. The same factor also plays into the benefits of efficiency. The structure can remain warm throughout the day, so it does not require a lot of firewood to maintain the temperature within a comfortable range. Here it is impossible not to mention the extremely convenient design with a bed or bed.

The design of the Russian stove is also unique in terms of creating culinary masterpieces. The wide temperature gradient of the firebox is very convenient to use during cooking. If it is necessary to obtain rapid heating, the cast iron with its contents is moved closer to the hearth. If it is necessary to reduce the intensity of boiling, then it is moved to the periphery, closer to the sides. By the way, the Russian stove has a unique ability that no other heating and cooking unit has. The walls and roof of the furnace, heated to a high temperature, are able to maintain a very high temperature even after the fuel has completely burned out. The infrared rays emitted by the surface allow long time bake or simmer foods, obtaining an incomparable taste and a golden, appetizing crust. The advantage of this method of cooking also lies in the fact that it does not come into contact with either fire or a gaseous environment, so there can be no talk of any carcinogens.

Modern heating devices can be classified according to the presence of one of the following characteristics:

The presence of a slab and a flood. The hob is built directly into the body of the stove, creating a so-called hearth, which was made blind in the canonical model.
Placement of a fireplace on the back side of the stove, which opens into the adjacent room. The practicality of this method is extremely high, since with the existence of two heating devices there is no need to construct separate chimneys and foundation slabs.
Attached to the stove is a coarse or trestle bed. They still, as before, increase the comfort and convenience of the heating device, although the dimensions of modern stove beds cannot be compared with the dimensions of traditional stoves, which were designed for 3-4 people.

The integration of the stove into the array of the Russian stove not only expanded its cooking capabilities, but also made it possible to heat the side heating shield and the lower part of the structure. Based on this factor, units with side heating are distinguished, which are used to heat the next room, as well as heat generators with bottom heating. The presence of a flood in the latter makes it possible to warm up the walls that are below the level of the hearth. Due to increased heat transfer, it becomes possible to heat a room of increased area without the need to expand the dimensions of the device.

Advantages and disadvantages (table)

pros	Minuses
High efficiency - from 50 to 70%.	The ability to operate only on fuels that do not require increased air flow. It will not be possible to convert it to gas or fuel oil.
Safe design.	Cumbersome design. Additional load on the floor - it can only be installed on the first floor.
Undemanding to materials - when building a furnace, you can only get by with brick, sand and clay.	After cooling, the unit requires a long warm-up.
Uniform heat transfer.	Ineffective smoke circulation - due to miscalculations in construction, the heating device may smoke.
Durability.	Inconvenience when cleaning the firebox from ash.
Possibility of heating the adjacent room.
Convenience and comfort of a bed.
The surface of the bed can emit infrared energy for a long time, which has an excellent therapeutic effect.

In addition, a Russian stove will require the owner to be able to handle a grip, a frying pan, pots and cast iron, and not every modern woman will like this. If you are ready to put up with minor inconveniences, then this one is literally a fabulous unit will be able to thank its owner not only with warmth and delicious food, but also healthy sleep, as well as wonderful healing procedures.

see also step by step guide on how to build a Dutch oven with your own hands: .

Device and design features

Built according to all the canons, the furnace has many structural elements.

Sub-bake. The recess at the base of the stove is intended for storing and drying firewood. Today, many owners refuse the oven to simplify and reduce the cost of the design and do it completely in vain. More convenient and practical place It is impossible to find fuel.
A stove is a cold niche for storing dishes.
The hearth is a flat horizontal surface in front of the crucible. Here you can leave food pulled from the fireplace so that it remains hot for a long time. There are designs of stoves in which a hob is installed in this place.
Under or flank - the bottom of the furnace (cooking chamber) located at a slight slope to the hearth. Deviation from the horizontal towards the outlet makes it easy to move heavy cast iron.
The crucible is a space inside the furnace that simultaneously serves as a firebox and a cooking chamber. As in the case of the finial, the ceiling of the furnace has a slope towards the exit. This allows you to trap hot gases under the roof, so they have time to warm up the array of the heating device. Between the hearth and the hearth there is a bend, or a bend, a kind of transition zone between the horizontal sections of the furnace with different temperatures.
Overtrumpeting is the same as hailo. In a Russian stove, this is a smoke collector located above the hearth. Behind it begins a chimney.
A samovar (also known as a dushnik) is a narrow channel leading directly into the chimney, which is intended to connect the samovar pipe. Modern stoves do not have a choke.
Vertical flue above the pole
A view is a hatch that completely blocks the chimney. Through the view window there is access to valve 10, which regulates the draft in the furnace.
Chimney valve.
Bed.

Another illustration clearly shows the structure of the internal chambers of the structure. The stove, which can be seen in the lower picture, is intended for drying fruits, mushrooms and berries. As you can see, the thickness of the walls between the niche and the furnace is no more than a brick, which actually turns the stove into a kind of modern oven of Swedish wood-burning heat generators.

The combustion unit, which is a kind of recuperator, has a huge impact on the performance of the heating device: the incoming air flow is heated by flue gases. Mixing does not occur due to various densities gases, and experiments have shown the absence of turbulence even at the interface between two gas flows. To avoid turbulence, the surfaces of the heel and fold are made as smooth as possible. Otherwise, turbulence will carry away some of the oxygen, which will increase the gas-generating ability of the heating device.

The oxygen entering the furnace supports intense combustion of the fuel. In this case, the heated gases rush to the roof of the furnace. Thanks to its inclination towards the mouth and a small threshold, which prevents the free escape of gases to the high, two stable zones of gas circulation are created. It is in them that the whole power of the Russian stove lies, but to form vortices you must strictly adhere to the basic dimensions.

In addition, the rotating flows retain unburned particles in the high-temperature flame zone for a long time, thereby increasing the completeness of fuel combustion. The heated roof and walls of the cooking chamber actively radiate energy in the infrared range, uniformly heating what is being cooked in the crucible. As for the crimp, it not only acts as a thermal economizer, but also allows you to keep food hot all day. To do this, it is enough to block the chimney and close the mouth with a wooden damper.

As you can see, the smoke circulation of a Russian stove has a minimal temperature gradient. The constancy of the temperature of the heated gases, as well as their constant circulation in the working area, leads to the fact that the smallest particles of fuel burn in the crucible without any residue. And here another important advantage of such a simple but carefully thought-out design appears. The fact is that ash is, of course, present in the heating unit, but with regards to soot and soot, they practically do not settle on the walls of the stove - you will only have to clean it a few times in its entire life.

Our website contains a large number of instructions for self-installation ovens different designs and difficulties, including Kuznetsov’s stove: .

Dimensions, drawings and orders

There are many options for Russian stoves. We present drawings of some of them as an example.

Photo gallery: examples of drawings and procedures

Russian stove: drawings and orders Drawing of a Russian stove with bottom heating
Drawing of a Russian stove with a hob
Drawing of a Russian stove with a stove bench

Today we will not dwell on simple designs. Our goal is to build a practical and functional unit with a hob and a water heating tank that will satisfy any owner of a country home. Below you can see its drawings and orders, and in the future we will provide full instructions on the manufacture of the stove, arrangement of the chimney and the procedure for putting the unit into operation.

Drawings and instructions for a Russian stove (photo gallery)

Drawing of an improved Russian stove Drawing and ordering
Order of the Russian stove: 1 - 24 row Order: 25 - 31 row Finished oven

Tools and materials

Laying a Russian stove: step-by-step instructions

First of all, let me give you some tips that will make the work easier and the constructed structure safer.

Use only high-quality bricks that have no cracks in the body.
When filling the seams, there should be no voids or gaps inside, and their thickness should be within 5–8 cm. Remember that coating the walls with clay to make them airtight is not the best option, since thermal conductivity decreases.
Before laying the brick, it is recommended to soak it - in this case, it will not draw liquid from the mortar.

Brick is soaked before laying for another reason. During drying, it will be dehydrated simultaneously with the solution, which will contribute to better adhesion and strengthening of the walls.

In order for the design to be neat, the excess clay squeezed out of the seams must be immediately picked up, preventing it from drying out. The walls of the furnace can be laid out in brick or half a brick, while the internal chambers can be half or even a quarter of its size. Experienced craftsmen A medium-sized stove is most often made up to 15 cm thick, arguing that this way it warms up faster and does not require additional fuel for preliminary combustion.

It is convenient to carry out the laying, focusing on the order. To do this, the diagram is printed on separate sheets of paper in order to follow the selected instructions during the work process.

The first row is laid out with special care, because it determines the geometric correspondence and evenness of the structure. For novice stove makers, it is better to draw the contours of the stove with chalk on the base or first do a dry dry installation. When working, adhere to the following order: first lay out the outer perimeter of the structure, and then fill it according to the order diagram.
The second row begins to form the walls, cleaning channels and the bottom of the ash pan.
Before starting the third row, install the blower door and the cleaning chamber hatch. They can be secured securely in the masonry using pieces of steel wire, which are screwed to the door frames at one end and placed in the brick joint at the other.
To ensure that the junction points of the stove cast iron do not crack during operation, metal elements can be wrapped asbestos cord or seal the gaps using basalt sealant.
The fourth row closes the cavities located near the walls and forms the overlap of the bottom channel.
Starting from the fifth row, grates are installed and the firebox begins to form. Often, fireclay bricks cut into two parts are used for these purposes. At the same level, the door of the small fuel chamber is mounted, which is located below the bottom channel.
On the sixth row, a firebox is laid out and a water heater is installed.
Seventh row. Installation of grate bars for the small fuel chamber and large combustion door. The right wall is pulled together with a metal strip, which is laid in the seam and secured to the outer edges of the bricks with vertical hooks. Like side surfaces firebox, its back wall is laid out dry. In this case, the parts of the firebox adjacent to the outer walls are made with gaps to improve heat transfer.
The eighth and ninth rows continue to expand the internal channels, and also secure the small fire door.
In the tenth row, the arches of both fireboxes are connected, simultaneously laying out the bottom of the furnace. At the same time, the openings of the channels located at back wall, must be open. Here, several bricks cover the water tank.
On the 11th row, the base for the hob is prepared, for which a steel corner is attached above the fire doors. In addition, a grate is installed in the rear part of the large firebox.
The 12th and 13th rows form the base of the chimney and the walls of the cooking chamber (crucible). A valve is also installed here, which will block the channel between the main chamber and the chimney.
12th and 13th row
In the 14th row, they begin to arrange a side passage from the furnace to the smoke channel, build up the walls of the cooking chamber and make a hole for the valve.
From the 15th row they begin to narrow the masonry to cover the furnace and continue to force out the smoke channel.
On the 16th row, the side walls of the furnace are fastened with metal strips in the same way as was done with right side unit in the seventh row.
17th row. Laying the second one metal corner above the niche hob and arrange the side bases of the arch of the cooking chamber.
On the 18th row, a domed template is installed and the arched vault of the furnace is laid out.
In the 19th row, a metal strip is used to strengthen the wall at the mouth of the furnace. They continue to build up the side walls, which are needed to hold the backfill.
20th row. Increase the height of the walls by one more brick, after which the vault for better thermal insulation covered with sand.
The 21st row forms the overlap of the furnace. This is where the overpipe begins to narrow.
To reduce the gas flow rate, a metal sheet with a cut out round opening is installed in the 22nd row. Continue to reduce the cross-section of the overtube.
In the 23rd row, a cleaning door is installed in the smoke channel and the outlet channel is expanded.
Starting from the 24th row, install a valve to adjust the draft.
The 25th and 26th rows are needed to cover the space above the adjustment flap.
From the 27th to the 29th row the overpipe and chimney are combined.

After this, the work on constructing the furnace is considered completed. All that remains is to build a chimney, after which it will be possible to carry out a test fire.

Chimney installation

The chimney required for the operation of a Russian stove is absolutely no different from the chimney of any stationary solid fuel unit, be it a “Dutch”, “Swedish” or some new-fangled bell-type stove, calculated using computer modeling. The design and arrangement of the chimney can be taken from the drawing below.

The design and installation location of the pipe for removing combustion products must comply with the standards of the current SNiP.
At the point of transition from the ceiling to the attic, the pipe should thicken.
The lower part of the chimney is placed on the same solution as the stove.
The internal cross-section of the smoke duct must correspond to the power of the heating device.
Above the roof, the chimney is built using a mortar with the addition of cement.
The places where the pipe passes through the ceilings are insulated using non-flammable and waterproofing materials.

During work, the geometry of the structure and the deviation from the vertical are constantly monitored using a level or plumb line.

Methods for finishing Russian stoves

Decorating a Russian stove is done in several ways:

jointing of brickwork;
plastering;
finishing ceramic tiles or tiles.

Joining brickwork is the simplest method, which is quite good for modern interiors. The main thing is that this method of decoration should be planned from the very beginning, since the aesthetics of the structure directly depends on the quality of the material and the neatness of the masonry. As a rule, for laying external walls they use facing brick with smooth side walls.

If the goal is to build a Russian stove according to ancient canons, then it must be plastered with a special clay mortar with the addition of chaff. After drying, the outer surfaces are covered with a solution of white clay in water. Such whitewashing is an environmentally friendly coating that is safe for others. In addition, thanks to it, the basis is prepared for the final finishing - painting. The patterns that cover the walls of the stove can repeat a national ornament or scenes from fairy tales, represent floral curls, stylization of Gzhel, Khokhloma, etc. - it all depends on created mood and owner preferences. Wide choose plaster mixtures allows you to replace the old composition with a more modern “bark beetle” or “lamb”.

For finishing with ceramic tiles, only heat-resistant types of tiles are used - terracotta, majolica, heat-resistant clinker or porcelain stoneware. In addition, Russian stoves are often lined with tiles. Note that although decorating with ceramic tiles is one of the most beautiful and practical ways finishing, after which the arrogance and luxury of the “Dutch” begins to be visible in the design, and not everyone will like this.

How to decorate a Russian stove (photo gallery)

Decorating with painted ceramic tiles The tiles can be laid not continuous, but in wide decorative stripes
Finishing with tiles A stove lined with tiles often begins to resemble a stylish “Dutch” Traditional method finishing- whitewashing Painting - a traditional way of finishing a Russian stove

If you plan not to embroider the masonry, but to cover it with ceramic tiles or plaster, then be sure to attach a metal mesh to the surface of the walls. Otherwise decorative finishing When heated, the structure will fall off.

The procedure for putting the heating device into operation

Having built a stove, in no case should you rush to try its heating capabilities to their full potential. It must be handled with care and precision, since with intense heating, the walls located closer to the hearth will dry out much faster than distant surfaces. The difference in thermal expansion of wet and dry materials is quite significant, so there is a danger of cracks appearing at the boundaries of the seams. To avoid trouble, all oven openings are opened and dried under natural conditions for two weeks.

Due to the need for long-term drying of the furnace, it is recommended to begin its construction in the warm season.

To speed up the process of removing moisture or when drying a structure under unfavorable conditions weather conditions a fan heater or a powerful electric lamp can be placed in the furnace and firebox. In this case, the oven doors are closed and the channels are left open.

The furnace is fired only after the pre-drying period has been completed.. To do this, during the first two days, no more than 3–4 kg of firewood is placed in the unit, adding 1 kg of fuel every day for a decade. The readiness of the furnace for full operation is judged by the absence of condensation on the internal surfaces of metal parts. The heating device is tested several times at half power, after which the operation of the unit is checked at maximum mode. During “break-in”, be sure to inspect the surfaces of the walls for the appearance of cracks and their possible increase. The defects that appear are repaired only after the stove has been heated at full strength several times.

After a long period of inactivity, be sure to check all visible surfaces for tightness of seams. Any cracks that appear must be repaired with clay mortar.
Before each fire, check for draft. If smoke from the furnace enters the room, the stove must not be used under any circumstances. Perhaps one of the valves is closed or the chimney needs to be cleaned.
You can close the view only after the firewood has completely burned out.
It is recommended to remove soot from internal surfaces ovens at the beginning of each season. In fact, the stove gets dirty very little and after construction it will not require cleaning for several years. However, it all depends on the smokiness and quality of the fuel used.

Video: creating a Russian brick oven with your own hands

A correctly and carefully built Russian stove will not only provide the room with comfortable warmth, but will also create a unique original style, so dear and close that any guest will be forever fascinated and captivated by the interior of your home. If you also use the heating device for cooking, you will be able to fully experience the taste and aroma of real Russian pies, daily cabbage soup or aromatic stewed porridge.

Russian brick stoves are still particularly popular among owners of country houses, dachas, and cottages. Unlike most heating devices, brick construction is able to maintain comfortable indoor humidity and air temperature in autonomous mode. In addition, the classic Russian brick oven can be used to prepare various dishes. How to fold a stove without professional help– read the article.

The construction of any furnace begins with drawing up detailed diagram location and appearance designs. Order drawings (order is an exact description of the placement of bricks in each row of masonry) can be found on the Internet. But before that, you should decide on the type and size of the structure, its location in the house.

The stove should be positioned so that its outer surface is capable of heating as many rooms as possible (for example, near one of the walls or in the partition wall of several adjacent rooms).

In addition, we should not forget about the ceilings: the stove should be positioned so that its pipe does not rest on the beams. The size and type of construction largely depend on the area of the house. Almost any furnace design can be modified to suit your own needs. At the same time, the structure of the furnace will be the same.

So, a Russian stove of any type consists of:

Foundations (in the form of a separate foundation);
An ash pan, which will provide air flow to the combustion chamber and accumulate ash;
Firebox with a door for loading firewood;
The chimney, which is responsible for the removal of combustion products (one of the main roles here is played by a metal damper that will block the hole between the chimney and the furnace);
Smoke circuits are channels that connect the firebox to the chimney.

A drawing of the design can be made on plain paper, you can create diverse projects using programs for 3D visualization, or you can make a mock-up of a stove from cardboard (for this you can use a regular box, forming paper channels inside).

Traditional Russian stoves with a stove bench and stove: photo

A Russian stove with a stove bench is a traditional design that was used not only for heating the room and preparing various dishes, but also for sleeping: if wooden shelves are installed, two adults can easily fit on the stove.

The classic stove with a bench has enough big sizes, and occupies a height of 200 cm, 150 cm in width and 250 in length.

In order to build such a stove you will need at least two thousand bricks and one hundred buckets of mortar. And this does not take into account the material for the pipe. Before building the furnace, you should take care of the laying the right foundation with a layer of heat and waterproofing.

You can easily find the order of a stove with a stove bench online, or you can turn to professional stove makers for a diagram.

In this case, you should pay attention to the dimensions of the oven. Modern designs often differ from classic ones in smaller size and, accordingly, power.

Standard Russian stove: dimensions

The dimensions of a Russian stove depend on its type. So, the most cumbersome stoves will be those with a fireplace and bottom heating; the stove is rough (rough). Such designs have undeniable advantages: they are multifunctional, look attractive and can heat large room. In addition, such stoves can be easily placed outdoors. But, unfortunately, they cannot always be installed in the house.

A classic Russian stove has a width of 150 and a length of 200 cm. At the same time, the stove bench in a traditional stove should be located at a height of 180 cm, and the hearth should be 45 cm.

The small Russian stove is 153 cm wide and 165.5 cm long. The Little Housekeeper is 100 cm wide and 130 cm long. And the popular “Swedish” Buslaeva is even smaller - 116x90 cm. At the same time, the location of the hobs and crucible determines the height of the housewife.

The choice of stove depends not only on the dimensions of the room, but also on the heat transfer performance of a particular design.

That is, the stove must be of such power that it is capable of providing the house with heat throughout the night, until the next fire. In order to carry out calculations, you can use generally accepted data, according to which for heating a room up to 10 square meters. you should choose a stove with dimensions of 150x150x200 cm.

In order to build a simple Russian stove you will need from 1.5 to 2 thousand bricks. The bricks are laid in rows. A standard stove includes 25-31 rows (excluding the chimney).

Any furnace is placed on a foundation, which can be represented as reinforced concrete slab, and brick (depending on the weight of the future stove).

It is better to lay the first row of the stove with waterproof, heated bricks. The walls of the furnace are one brick thick, and the front part of the cooking surface is half as thick. Wood formwork is usually placed in the oven opening. When laying the vaults of the oven and furnace, it is best to use wedge-shaped bricks. They can be easily made with your own hands, since production involves processing ordinary bricks.

How to fold a stove with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

The construction of brick stoves requires care and a lot of patience. The time that will have to be spent on masonry depends on the dimensions of the structure and the qualifications of the worker. In order to complete the work as quickly as possible, it is necessary to understand in detail the features of furnace construction and determine the principle of work.

So, regardless of size and type, the construction of a cooking heating structure includes:

Preparatory stage. At this stage, the dimensions of the stove are calculated, its location in the house is determined, and drawings are prepared.
Laying the foundation - the foundation for the furnace.
Formation of the ash chamber and purge channels.
Installation of the stove panel and formation of a cooking niche with two channels.
Formation of a steam exhaust channel.
Organization of the drying chamber and chimney.
Laying a chimney.

An outdoor stove is installed in exactly the same way. After completing the work, the structure should be dried. Drying can be natural or forced. In the first case, drying takes 6-9 months, in the second - 3 weeks.

In order for the stove to be reliable, attractive and serve its owners for a long time, it is important not only to follow the instructions for laying rows, but also to know some of the tricks that experienced stove makers use in their work.

So that the masonry is strong and reliable, and the stove is efficient and safe, it is necessary:

Select high-quality bricks without chips and cracks, which must be soaked before laying.
In places where cast elements are installed, a technological gap should be left between the brick and the plates for metal expansion.
Every 5-8 rows, make a fire-proof cutting in half a brick. If there is not enough space for bricks, then for cutting you should choose materials with low thermal conductivity (vermiculite, supersil, calcium silicate).
Joints in masonry should be made no thicker than 7 mm.
To organize the firebox, it is better to use refractory fireclay (yellow) bricks, which can withstand temperatures up to 1600°C.

Before you start installing the stove yourself, professionals advise studying the relevant literature and, if possible, observing the stove maker at work. Preparations for work should be approached responsibly and thoroughly, because an incorrectly assembled stove can cause fire hazards and endanger the life and health of all residents of the house.

Russian stove with flood chamber: how to lay it

The Russian stove with heating is a modern, reliable design aimed at performing several functions. The design of the oven with heating allows you to cook food as if cast iron stove, and in a crucible, heat a room of up to 60 square meters. m. It looks traditional, which makes it most suitable for rustic-style interiors.

In order to assemble a Russian stove with a flood chamber you need:

Lay out the base of the pipe, small and large baking sheets in the first row.
Form the second and third rows in the same way with space for the ash pan in the last one.
Start laying the fourth row from a ledge (as in a conventional structure).
In the fifth row, you should close the ash pan, and in the sixth, install a grate and lay a flue (if the stove is both wood- and gas-fired).
Create a space for the firebox in the seventh row.
Lay out the eighth and ninth rows with hewn bricks.
Block the chimney in the tenth row.
Lay out the pipe.

The finishing of the finished stove may include painting. You can paint the firebox or the roof of the furnace so that the furnace turns out to be fabulous. It is better to use traditional colors and motifs.

Do-it-yourself mini-Russian oven: photo

Today, the dimensions of private houses, dachas and cottages do not always make it practical to fit a standard Russian stove into the kitchen. If there is no space for a large enough structure, then instead of a traditional stove you can use a Swedish oven. Such a stove will take no more than one square meter, and at the same time will cope perfectly with heating a room measuring 30 square meters. There are several modifications of the “Swedish”.

The most common options are a mini-oven with a cast iron hob built into the oven and a full-fledged three-turn oven with a fireplace, hob, oven and drying niche.

It is quite difficult to build a Swedish model yourself. In order for the building to effectively cope with its cooking and heating functions, only high-quality materials should be selected for the work. Step-by-step instructions and recommendations from experienced stove makers will help you complete the laying.

So, before you start laying, you need to lay a square foundation for a stove with an area of 1.21 square meters. m.

We make the first two rows of masonry continuous. At the same time, in the 2nd row we install a grate under the fireplace. In the 3rd row of the stove we build an ash chamber, a vertical channel and a place for the oven, and lay out a fireplace firebox. We place the next row as the 3rd, and in the 5th we equip a place for mounting the grate. We block the passage between the oven and the vertical channel in the 6th row.

At the same time, it should be taken into account that between the oven and the firebox we always place the bricks on their edges.

In the 7th row above the firebox we place metal strips (2 pieces), and we do the 8th and 9th rows in the same way as the previous one. We will install a chimney for cleaning the fireplace along with a place for installing a hob in the 10th row. We form the crucible in the 11th row. We lay out the front wall of the fireplace in the 12th and 13th rows with bricks cut diagonally. In order to make a shelf in the 14th row, we move the bricks out 2.5 cm. We finish laying the cooking niche in the 16th row, making the next two rows the same.

We organize chimneys in the 19th row: between the fireplace duct and the vertical one we place bricks cut diagonally on both sides.

We lay out subsequent rows in the same way, and in the 26th row we connect the vertical channel to the chimney. In the 30th row, we push the bricks 30 mm outward on all sides, and start laying the pipe from the 32nd row.

How to fold a stove with your own hands: step-by-step instructions (video)

A Russian stove in a country house is a stylish and efficient design that allows you to simultaneously heat a fairly large room and cook food in several modes. You can lay out a brick oven for free – with your own hands. To do this, you need to approach the work responsibly: calculate the dimensions of the furnace, draw a drawing and draw up the order of the structure. When carrying out masonry, you should take into account the recommendations of experienced stove makers. And then you will be able to make a reliable and durable new structure, and replace the old stove!